As soon as you stated the problem about the beam placement I thought 'just angle it so it sits on the supports'. I live in a house that was built in the 1880's. Nothing is level, plumb or straight. It's a perfectionist's nightmare but once you get over yourself, it makes for some creative problem solving. Literally 'thinking outside the box'. Love your channel.
Yeah. I bought a 1920 home. Wasn't too bad really. But the last time it was remodeled was the 60's and 70's. It's better to shoot for excellent than perfect in very old homes. Keeps the cost of labor way down!
Your dedication to craft is exceptional, mate, but here in Canada on some of the houses I've remodeled the framers wouldn't have even *noticed* a deviation of 4" in nearly 28' 🤣 It's been a mind-expanding treat to see how your methods half a world away differ from the ones we use here. I can't wait to see how the house turns out. I can't wait to see what this channel is doing years from now.
Also as a canadian, i find the fact that their use of planers on studs to flatten walls. Here, the crooked studs we get always seem to be ….send it. Regardless of how bowed a wall goes in or out.
@@wiwcha Agreed. Only the very worst ever seem to get corrected around here. And they never got corrected in the kitchen or bathroom *I'm* remodeling. 🤣 I had often wondered while watching either Scott or Essential Craftsman if we have pickup framers at all up here: I've never opened a wall and found either a cardboard shim or a planer mark.
Lots of bracing and proping to renove that beam over in the uk and ireland wed just cross the timber over a few acro props and u instantly have your up and down adjustment in a matter of a minute lifts heavier weight that a nornal 2 by 4 too
Its a steel support/prop with adjustment - coarse adjustment sometimes with a cross pin through a series of holes, but always has a screw jack fitting on one end so you can adjust the length of the support accurately, then lock it in place with a cross pin through the adjustment collar. 'Acro' was just a brand name that got attached to the type of prop, like 'Hoover' and vacuum cleaners. You see them in huge numbers holding up formwork for pouring concrete in building.
Done it before mate. You will have slight change in lateral loads, so an extra locating block at the ends to help reduce the risk of twisting over the load helps out.
I learned something today, thank you Ray. I always thought that "over ... hanging ... curtain" thing was for aesthetic purposes. Who knew it had an actual purpose ☺️
Once you have the beam sealed safely in place you will over time forget its alignment. If your engineer is OK, go with it. Love your channel. Cheers from Canada. ~ulrich
Ahh that's why it's call acceptable solutions, I've renovated old places for years now and the amount of time we've had to change things to fit the space is huge. That's what I love about Renos, being able to think outside the box.
Glad you arrived at the sensible beam solution - as soon as you mentioned the problem I thought 'Stick it in on the angle - makes no difference'.. I feel the same way that it doesn't feel right but whatever - it's a beam in the roof space.
Out of square can be fine. Old houses were built out of square or lime mortar has allowed them to twist over century and during bombing. Quite fun to highlight it in your decorations and furnishings
Can't wait to see how the beam looks being installed out of square on purpose! Understand why, makes perfect sense given the other choices, now, want to see it in place and everything connected to it.
We had the exact opposite happen on our renovation. A previously renovated property we were expecting the stud to land right in a gap that would have required new footing etc like you had to do. In our case the stud landed square in the middle of an old block wall so we didn't have to go ahead with new footings after all!
I think that’s a great solution, you have to work with what you’ve got. Sometimes there have to be compromises. I’m glad where I’m from we frame exclusively with trusses so we have no load bearing interior walls or beams running through. Everything just sits on 2x6 exteriors.
I sympathise on how you feel about placing the beam out of square. It really does go against the grain of how we feel about accuracy. But if it has to be done it has to be done. I don't suppose its possible to put on some extra full height studs from bottom plate to top plate that are mechanically fixed to the joist bearer ends is it? I guess the engineer would have to advise on that one to get is accepted by the BCA inspector.
Lol as you were describing the problem of the beam supports I thought of that precise solution before hearing you say it. And yes for all the reasons you said renovations means thinking outside of boxes and being perfectly square. I remember while doing my dads old Georgian 3 story house in the UK I learned that vital lesson as he is an artist my attempt to have things level and square in my early 20s meant that things actually looked out of level or square. Shabby Sheek is a name that is often used when combining old with new and this is obviously the case with renovations the older the house the more it’s the case too.
6:11 @scott brown carpentry Hey Scott same thing happened to me during ‘Ovid & couldn’t get the LVL wanted; so, went w/ steel beam. Yes, annoying, yes need wee bit more supports….but worked out & was available keeping us on cheerleading. Maybe an option 🤔?? Thx for sharing as loving THIS SERIES, SO GREAT, & been waiting for a tradesman like you to Reno a house, as pretty sweet & awesome 👍🏻 Cheers ✌🏻
Nog een paar weken en je spreekt Nederlands ;-) Ray the new star in your show ;-) I always watch your videos but now it's even more fun. Keep up the good work! Nice to see a different way of building compared to Netherlands
G,day Scott Brown Carpentry and Jess from Sydney Australia. Very professional 'demo', for the new roof beam: 1. At this time it's only transferring the load of a sheet metal roof; but Are you designing for possible future second story loading? 2. If yes, then consider point loading onto concrete footing. Weight loading should be to the centre of the footing to stop rolling. ♻️⛩️
I spoke to an engineer once about screws vs nails & he said, whilst screws hold timber much stronger than nails, the hardness/brittleness of the screws makes them more susceptible to breaking. Nails don't hold as strongly but will flex for the life of the building. Since then I have used a combination of screws and nails to achieve the strongest hold with the longest life.
Well my first thought about your beam problem was "just stick it in on the piss" and others have already stated that too. It's definitely the way to go in this instance. Get it in there and move on. And a big 👍 for your channel.
From what I remember everyone used screws for everything in the UK - decks, fences, framing. Looking at the state of a lot of fences in NZ that are held together (or often not held together) by nails I can see why.
One bonus of screwing studwork walls together, is when the customer changes their mind, its alot easier to move, if they are screwed, rather than nailed. Enjoying the house renovation.
@@longuevalnz Your Dutch is as good as Ray's English. Spot-on. For us Dutch, it's funny to hear a Dutch accent, including the 'Doei, doei'. Back to building: personally, I would have taken another route to restore the house. More expensive and requires more work. My idea would have been to clear the attic and rebuild the house into a MidCenturyModern place, with a properly insulated roof and an 'open' ceiling. The type Scott fabricated years ago with the multiplex panels and black edges
Who would of thought it would be difficult to get a Nelson pine LVL in Nelson😆 While your renovating you should look at installing the telecom and mains underground instead of to your front gable end. Just a thought mate. Makes it look tidy and stops it getting damaged by trees in a storm of hiabs when getting deliveries😁
If you would want the beam in parallel with the house you could put LVL's over the door as well to support the other end of the beam. That would reguire more studs on the door opening though.
Hope your beam will be long enough then. It is the best solution, no compromises. Makes sense that it doesn't feel right though, when framing you only think in squares.
The square head screws were invented in Canada around the same time the Phillips head thing appeared. Up there it's called Robertson or some such. I'm in California and prefer Robertson or Torx screws, especially for outdoor applications
Robertson is the name of the guy who invented them. Robertson screws are used extensively here in Canada especially in furniture making. They certainly are a lot nicer to work with than slotted screws or the poor quality Philips head seen in a lot of asian goods.
I cut the stud off leaving a space enough for the two wedges to overlap as I'm tapping them in. One climbs up over the other so I can get the full height of the wedge in the lifting.
Scotty B, you really need to chat with a structural engineer brother, you could've just left that roof beam in and plated your new one to the side of it with batten screws, also if you cant find 2/450 deep lvl's, try 2/GL laminate beams which are smaller, or use a composite timber and steel plated beam, you have options mate! (engineer from australia)
From what I saw it looked like the old one was a hanging beam and served no roof structural purpose other than stopping the ceiling from falling on their heads! Nothing was "improved" by removing it and the fact that it was hanging, hence fixed the way it was, really shouldn't have been a surprise to any chippy. Especially since the ceiling joists were landing under it, just as it's intended!!!
Where the door way is at one end of the beam, how much height difference from the top of the door jam to where the beam will sit? Can you have a lintel over the doorway to carry the beam? Triple stud each side of the door?
with my old boss, we used screws for all kinds of fixing, permanent and temporary. studs ect. I didn't think it was weird until I saw people using nail guns, even then I feel like screws might have more "hold" to them?
Just make sure the plans are correct, so you got a rough idea, how it looks above the ceiling for future upgrades, in said space. A drawing that is to-scale, is so much easier to calculate stuff on :)
As soon as you mentioned your "problem" I thought of the same solution you came too! Over 8m 150mm would hardly be noticed and you will soon forgot you ever did it!
I get what you mean, it's things like that that only a good carpenter cares about, but it means that every job before this has been done the proper way because you don't settle for less
Scott in regards to you saying about in the uk the guys use screws it’s all personal preference me and my guys always nail but some other guys screw Thought I’d let you know 🤣🤣 big shoutout from London
Well Scott, that out of square wall you are putting up to solve that existing issue, might drive you nuts for a long while. I did something similar, about 1" (25mm) but wall was only about 1 meter long. every time I passed by I saw it. Drove me nuts and about 6 months later, took it down, moved a beam in a basement to get it square. Good luck.
Normally I love your content.. but the intro had me hating you for making me nostalgia about my "formerly great" skateboarding skills. Watched to the end.. and now I don't hate you anymore.. yes it would have taken me a few tries too! :)
Think of it as cross bracing element and a beam in one :) next big earthquake when all your neighbors houses fall over and yours just stands there you can say "lucky that beam isn't perfectly parallel to the wall.
Toe must be feeling better. Scott was nailing those skateboard moves.
I am currently installing a beam at an angle like you in my house. The engineer actually drew it that way because of the same support reasons.
As soon as you stated the problem about the beam placement I thought 'just angle it so it sits on the supports'.
I live in a house that was built in the 1880's. Nothing is level, plumb or straight. It's a perfectionist's nightmare but once you get over yourself, it makes for some creative problem solving. Literally 'thinking outside the box'. Love your channel.
Speaking from experience, sometimes you just have to improvise to solve a problem,sometimes it's the easiest option..
Yeah. I bought a 1920 home. Wasn't too bad really. But the last time it was remodeled was the 60's and 70's. It's better to shoot for excellent than perfect in very old homes. Keeps the cost of labor way down!
Your dedication to craft is exceptional, mate, but here in Canada on some of the houses I've remodeled the framers wouldn't have even *noticed* a deviation of 4" in nearly 28' 🤣
It's been a mind-expanding treat to see how your methods half a world away differ from the ones we use here. I can't wait to see how the house turns out. I can't wait to see what this channel is doing years from now.
Also as a canadian, i find the fact that their use of planers on studs to flatten walls.
Here, the crooked studs we get always seem to be ….send it. Regardless of how bowed a wall goes in or out.
@@wiwcha Agreed. Only the very worst ever seem to get corrected around here. And they never got corrected in the kitchen or bathroom *I'm* remodeling. 🤣 I had often wondered while watching either Scott or Essential Craftsman if we have pickup framers at all up here: I've never opened a wall and found either a cardboard shim or a planer mark.
Lots of bracing and proping to renove that beam over in the uk and ireland wed just cross the timber over a few acro props and u instantly have your up and down adjustment in a matter of a minute lifts heavier weight that a nornal 2 by 4 too
Its a steel support/prop with adjustment - coarse adjustment sometimes with a cross pin through a series of holes, but always has a screw jack fitting on one end so you can adjust the length of the support accurately, then lock it in place with a cross pin through the adjustment collar. 'Acro' was just a brand name that got attached to the type of prop, like 'Hoover' and vacuum cleaners. You see them in huge numbers holding up formwork for pouring concrete in building.
Here in Tennessee USA we just use a reciprocating saw and cut the nails to remove something like that.
“It’s a new day”….
“Its beginning to feel like I never left “
Great ep. Love your work ethic.
Done it before mate. You will have slight change in lateral loads, so an extra locating block at the ends to help reduce the risk of twisting over the load helps out.
I learned something today, thank you Ray. I always thought that "over ... hanging ... curtain" thing was for aesthetic purposes. Who knew it had an actual purpose ☺️
You're making the house out of square? I can see why square space didn't sponsor this episode.
Quite witty 😂
This comment deserves more recognition 👏 👊
Brilliant comment
🤣 my house isn't square 😳😳 it's at an 18 degree angle and boy did that make headaches renovating 😉
😂😂😂
Once you have the beam sealed safely in place you will over time forget its alignment. If your engineer is OK, go with it. Love your channel. Cheers from Canada. ~ulrich
2 exciting episodes within a few days - what a treat 👍
I am from belgium love the dutch lessons of Ray "doei doei ""stroopwafel"
Its a amazing to see te progress of the renovation
More progress Scott, the beam being slightly out of parallel seems to be the way to go. Thanks for the latest exciting episode.👍👍
Ahh that's why it's call acceptable solutions, I've renovated old places for years now and the amount of time we've had to change things to fit the space is huge. That's what I love about Renos, being able to think outside the box.
Glad you arrived at the sensible beam solution - as soon as you mentioned the problem I thought 'Stick it in on the angle - makes no difference'.. I feel the same way that it doesn't feel right but whatever - it's a beam in the roof space.
16:00 HAHAHA that Jess scared nervous laugher as you fell off into other bowl lol
Out of square can be fine. Old houses were built out of square or lime mortar has allowed them to twist over century and during bombing. Quite fun to highlight it in your decorations and furnishings
Can't wait to see how the beam looks being installed out of square on purpose! Understand why, makes perfect sense given the other choices, now, want to see it in place and everything connected to it.
We had the exact opposite happen on our renovation. A previously renovated property we were expecting the stud to land right in a gap that would have required new footing etc like you had to do. In our case the stud landed square in the middle of an old block wall so we didn't have to go ahead with new footings after all!
I think that’s a great solution, you have to work with what you’ve got. Sometimes there have to be compromises. I’m glad where I’m from we frame exclusively with trusses so we have no load bearing interior walls or beams running through. Everything just sits on 2x6 exteriors.
Go ECHT ZWINZ, yeh buddy i love how this shirt keeps popping up in your vids. By the way great vids i still haven't missed one of your vids.
Skater boy.....man of many talents !
Another awesome asf vids Scott Brown CarPentry Cuzzy Rory is here for some CarPentry DIY. PROJECTS too doing over xmas this year etc.
So impressed with the idea to put the beam out of square! Also never thought to add a beam above the trusses.
Always good to see a fellow skater having fun, kind regards Ardy( 59 years old) keep up the great content👍👍
I sympathise on how you feel about placing the beam out of square. It really does go against the grain of how we feel about accuracy. But if it has to be done it has to be done. I don't suppose its possible to put on some extra full height studs from bottom plate to top plate that are mechanically fixed to the joist bearer ends is it? I guess the engineer would have to advise on that one to get is accepted by the BCA inspector.
Lol as you were describing the problem of the beam supports I thought of that precise solution before hearing you say it. And yes for all the reasons you said renovations means thinking outside of boxes and being perfectly square. I remember while doing my dads old Georgian 3 story house in the UK I learned that vital lesson as he is an artist my attempt to have things level and square in my early 20s meant that things actually looked out of level or square. Shabby Sheek is a name that is often used when combining old with new and this is obviously the case with renovations the older the house the more it’s the case too.
You always come across major problems renovating. It’s how you overcome them shows your ability 👍
I spend far to much time watch yourself and Josh Chapman's channel . But boy do I love it !!
Through my aprenteship in England we framed with hand nails and paslodes never even owned a drill for a long time.
This is definitely my favourite video of the reno so far! Love this type of work. Great video
6:11 @scott brown carpentry
Hey Scott same thing happened to me during ‘Ovid & couldn’t get the LVL wanted; so, went w/ steel beam. Yes, annoying, yes need wee bit more supports….but worked out & was available keeping us on cheerleading.
Maybe an option 🤔??
Thx for sharing as loving THIS SERIES, SO GREAT, & been waiting for a tradesman like you to Reno a house, as pretty sweet & awesome 👍🏻
Cheers ✌🏻
Nog een paar weken en je spreekt Nederlands ;-) Ray the new star in your show ;-) I always watch your videos but now it's even more fun. Keep up the good work! Nice to see a different way of building compared to Netherlands
Scott, Jess, and Ray. Awesome combination 👍
G,day Scott Brown Carpentry and Jess from Sydney Australia.
Very professional 'demo', for the new roof beam:
1. At this time it's only transferring the load of a sheet metal roof; but
Are you designing for possible future second story loading?
2. If yes, then consider point loading onto concrete footing. Weight loading should be to the centre of the footing to stop rolling.
♻️⛩️
Put it out of square , it’s the simplest and best solution, it’s also a bodge but a good one
I spoke to an engineer once about screws vs nails & he said, whilst screws hold timber much stronger than nails, the hardness/brittleness of the screws makes them more susceptible to breaking. Nails don't hold as strongly but will flex for the life of the building.
Since then I have used a combination of screws and nails to achieve the strongest hold with the longest life.
I love the ambiguity "I'm thinking... and this goes against all my building instincts" 🤣🤣
Well my first thought about your beam problem was "just stick it in on the piss" and others have already stated that too. It's definitely the way to go in this instance. Get it in there and move on. And a big 👍 for your channel.
From what I remember everyone used screws for everything in the UK - decks, fences, framing. Looking at the state of a lot of fences in NZ that are held together (or often not held together) by nails I can see why.
Glad to also hear your Dutch is improving thanks to Ray! :D
Love the out-takes at the end
One bonus of screwing studwork walls together, is when the customer changes their mind, its alot easier to move, if they are screwed, rather than nailed. Enjoying the house renovation.
Gelukkig is Ray er met goede ideeën 😀 Dutch ingenuity and length
Geen dag is compleet zonder een good old stroopwafel! 💪🏻🫶🏻
And 'stroopwafels'! The angled beam is a good idea. It saves you a lot of hassle under the floor.
@Eltinio “Lucky Ray is there with good ideas” … my guess that’s what you wrote?
@@longuevalnz Your Dutch is as good as Ray's English. Spot-on. For us Dutch, it's funny to hear a Dutch accent, including the 'Doei, doei'.
Back to building: personally, I would have taken another route to restore the house. More expensive and requires more work. My idea would have been to clear the attic and rebuild the house into a MidCenturyModern place, with a properly insulated roof and an 'open' ceiling. The type Scott fabricated years ago with the multiplex panels and black edges
Who would of thought it would be difficult to get a Nelson pine LVL in Nelson😆 While your renovating you should look at installing the telecom and mains underground instead of to your front gable end. Just a thought mate. Makes it look tidy and stops it getting damaged by trees in a storm of hiabs when getting deliveries😁
throw it out of parallel! still works fine! love your stuff, keep er up!
Sometimes you just have to do what you gotta do. Good work
Nice problem-solving - beam me up Scotty!
Loving the footage over the sponsored part!
Fairly good “Doei doei”!
Can you build a beam in the attic across the trusses for support? Make the beam wider to make up the 100mm
“Put it out of square” gave me shivers
I use a hammer from both sides with double wedges. It works great.
If you would want the beam in parallel with the house you could put LVL's over the door as well to support the other end of the beam. That would reguire more studs on the door opening though.
Your building looks great
Being Dutch it's amusing to see you enjoying stroopwafels :)
Hope your beam will be long enough then. It is the best solution, no compromises. Makes sense that it doesn't feel right though, when framing you only think in squares.
If you continue to go on this way...you be speaking dutch in no time. 😁
Greetings from Rotterdam Holland
We call that concept in the states "split the difference"!
The square head screws were invented in Canada around the same time the Phillips head thing appeared. Up there it's called Robertson or some such. I'm in California and prefer Robertson or Torx screws, especially for outdoor applications
Robertson is the name of the guy who invented them. Robertson screws are used extensively here in Canada especially in furniture making. They certainly are a lot nicer to work with than slotted screws or the poor quality Philips head seen in a lot of asian goods.
Screws are simply weaker in shear than nails which is the strength you need with framing. Indoor or outdoor.
Great video, thank you. I could watch sponsor segments all day if if was sk8 footage in NZ!
Nails pop Scott hence why we use screws unless it's a prefabricated panel.
Install at an angle and use adjustable joist hangers. They make them adjustable for a reason
Whoa! Scott I didn't know you could skateboard?! Right on brother! Another banger video 👏🏽
I see others have had the same idea, but I didn't see any answer as to what joist hangers are you going to use, because of the angle.
I cut the stud off leaving a space enough for the two wedges to overlap as I'm tapping them in. One climbs up over the other so I can get the full height of the wedge in the lifting.
Love the carpentry videos but your skating is sick bro!
Hah, love the intro! You've got some moves 😁
Box the, out of parallel beam, parallel when you do the ceiling cladding.
Yep, out of square is totally fine 👍
Agree - out of square is the correct answer
Scotty B, you really need to chat with a structural engineer brother, you could've just left that roof beam in and plated your new one to the side of it with batten screws, also if you cant find 2/450 deep lvl's, try 2/GL laminate beams which are smaller, or use a composite timber and steel plated beam, you have options mate! (engineer from australia)
From what I saw it looked like the old one was a hanging beam and served no roof structural purpose other than stopping the ceiling from falling on their heads! Nothing was "improved" by removing it and the fact that it was hanging, hence fixed the way it was, really shouldn't have been a surprise to any chippy. Especially since the ceiling joists were landing under it, just as it's intended!!!
What about a extended beefed up lintel above the door way so the beam sits on that and transfers load down on to the triple stud? 🤔
How about pouring some concrete to lift the stair height to the correct foundation height you need?
Scrap the wood beam idea and go all metal. Just make it super open concept.
Stroopwafel! Well done you! 🙂
6:40 Houdoe he, doei doei Ray!
Where the door way is at one end of the beam, how much height difference from the top of the door jam to where the beam will sit? Can you have a lintel over the doorway to carry the beam? Triple stud each side of the door?
with my old boss, we used screws for all kinds of fixing, permanent and temporary. studs ect. I didn't think it was weird until I saw people using nail guns, even then I feel like screws might have more "hold" to them?
Just make sure the plans are correct, so you got a rough idea, how it looks above the ceiling for future upgrades, in said space. A drawing that is to-scale, is so much easier to calculate stuff on :)
I guess if it bothers you, you could 'pack' the beam and clad it with something back to square visually, while it still performs structurally.
As soon as you mentioned your "problem" I thought of the same solution you came too! Over 8m 150mm would hardly be noticed and you will soon forgot you ever did it!
I get what you mean, it's things like that that only a good carpenter cares about, but it means that every job before this has been done the proper way because you don't settle for less
Running a beam on a Angle is Perfectly fine and common, even in new houses
No one will know it's out of square, except you, the next renovator of your home and 340k subscribers to your channel :)
cant you put a big beefy double header in the doorway to transfer the load so you dont have to move the position of the beam
Scott in regards to you saying about in the uk the guys use screws it’s all personal preference me and my guys always nail but some other guys screw
Thought I’d let you know 🤣🤣 big shoutout from London
Could you triple stud either side of the doorway and beam over the top of the door frame for the long beam to sit on top of?
YEY Stroopwafel, sounds so cool! not long and you'll be speaking Dutch!
Use Sabre saw to cut out nail from beam.
“Nothings fallin yet” 🤣
OLD ON! Doesn't Jess need to sign off on the change order....??? LOL! Looking forward to the NEXT exciting episode!
Two videos in one week 😁
Ask Ray, in Holland, we insulate internal walls for sound.. not for heat
Based on workmanship of the original house, anything else you do will be a big improvement.
I know your pain with the nailed on gib, man its a pain. Also the weird building stuff.
Hey Scott! On previous renovations when dealing with carpets, I’ve seen you use a plastic protector on a roll. Whats that stuff called?!
Well Scott, that out of square wall you are putting up to solve that existing issue, might drive you nuts for a long while. I did something similar, about 1" (25mm) but wall was only about 1 meter long. every time I passed by I saw it. Drove me nuts and about 6 months later, took it down, moved a beam in a basement to get it square. Good luck.
Normally I love your content.. but the intro had me hating you for making me nostalgia about my "formerly great" skateboarding skills. Watched to the end.. and now I don't hate you anymore.. yes it would have taken me a few tries too! :)
Think of it as cross bracing element and a beam in one :) next big earthquake when all your neighbors houses fall over and yours just stands there you can say "lucky that beam isn't perfectly parallel to the wall.