Nice to see the Radio Spares (now RS Components) capacitor. This company was first introduced to me as a school kid in the science lab probably 55 years ago.
Great video! I very much appreciate your ascetic. Doing a complete restoration, doing both the electrical and physical restoration to a high degree is just superb. Your videos are like boxes on Christmas morning. Charlie
I truly enjoy watching your videos. Your commentary during the repair process is great. Waiting for part 2! I’ve got a few German sets I’m not quite brave enough to dive into yet- it’s encouraging watching your work.
Hi Jim, thank you. It does take a bit of bravery (for me) to tackle these sets but I'm learning as I go and so far I have found it interesting, very different to what I'm used to 🙂
Yes! Master David with a german radio. Perfect day! I have an old wega at my parents home, and a bakelite cute little telefunken meky. I never even tried to turn them on, I don't have a variac and I don't want to burn or ruin them. Maybe in the future I will get to repair them, who knows. Keep up the good work David.
It's so strange when there's a wire completely missing - it makes me wonder if it ever worked! Wonderful restoration and I can't wait to see the next parts. For me here in Hungary these videos make perfect breakfast television!
Hi Dave, when reviewing the full video I noticed there was a wire hanging from the original filter capacitor, I neglected to replace it when I redid the capacitor. It just shows I should have studied the schematic better 🤦♂️🙂
I really enjoyed watching this video. Your camera work is excellent, and the pace is perfect. My videos tend to be too packed with waffle, and probably bore some people to tears :) You said you learnt from me, and now I’m happy to admit that I’m learning from you. PS : I told you so :)
Thanks EOaNbMC, I appreciate your feedback. I also appreciate your clear explanation of a circuit and how it works or why it's not, that is of great benefit to me and others, keep doing what you are doing. I can't imagine you learn much from me but thanks 🙂 P.S. you were right 😀
Excellent work David on a daunting project. The manufacturers certainly had a different way of thinking. Good luck and I look forward to the next video.
Hi David - great to find you working on another radio - really interesting how you trouble-shoot the problems... and your metal work skills are always excellent. Looking forward to the next step in the process.
No better way to spend a friday evening than watching a new video from you! This radio is much closer in construction to my Philips B5SF84A than the pre-FM radios you're usually working on. Hoping to catch a few good tips for future repairs!
I've been putting off replacing a dim 6G5 / 6U5 magic eye with a more readily available equivalent and suitably rewired base. David, I now have the motivation to get it done. Stay safe and thanks. Terry.
I say go for a nice detailed three part series on this radio, wonderful part one. Had to look up what a Magic Eye was so I learned something this morning. "Stay at Home" got extended through the month of April here in Illinois, so looking forward to more content ASAP!!!
Hi David, There will be three parts. I only have a few radios with magic eye and love them. You guys are doing it tough over there and are on our news every night. Hopefully you will be over the hump soon, it's so tragic. Keep safe and thank you for watching 😀
These old Nordmendes are lovely and sound great. The Germans call those wax/tar capacitors "Teerbomben" (Tar bombs) and you should replace them on sight. I saw a few still in the chassis that I would replace, simply because they will become conductive sooner or later and that puts an extra load on the high voltage windings of the power transformer with ugly consequences. You'll see the difference in the watts drawn after the cap job.
Hi Derek, you were mentioned in discussions with your friend in Madeira. Which caps should I replace? I went through and replaced all the white ones which I will document in part 3. All the traditional waxies are gone and the filter caps as well. The selenium rectifier is replaced in part 2. The clear capacitors are in low voltage areas and seem ok. Did I miss something 🤔👍
@@DavidTipton101 At 12:51 I see a big boy at the 11:00 position. 17:01 bang in the center of the screen, They like to put 0.1uF' s on the supply line to the tubes in the RF and IF stages. If you have already replaced them then no worries.
@@DerekHerbst747 At 12:51 there is a black paper waxie with orange paper wrapping , I have replaced that. At 17:01 there is a clear plastic cap with red paper in it, below that is a black cap that is a replacement cap. If it's the black one it's a replacement black cap that I use, if it's the clear one let me know and I will change it. I use black ones as they don't stand out like yellow ones. Hope all is well with you and your work, aviation has been hit hard, thanks for your help Derek this project is a stretch for me 🙄😀
I think is is good for one to turn their hand to restoring foreign Vintage Radios once in a while ...a change is as good as a rest as they say LOL. One of a number of reasons why I’m turning my hand towards restoring American Vintage Radios. From where you are, it adds an Australian perspective to restoring a German radio. I suppose it’s like me, a Brit, who adds a British perspective to restoring American radios. It all adds to what is the colourful hobby of radio restoration and repair around the world. Each year a few Australian Vintage Radios crop up, here in England, at various amateur radio fests, swap meets, and Vintage Radio fairs -doubtless they will have been postponed, or cancelled due to Corvid-19. Normally, after buying British radios I then go on the lookout for American, and Canadian types, so, from now on, Australian, and New Zealand radios will be on my ‘look out for’ list ...they certainly look interesting. Having said that, I have recently acquired a French radio, Radialva (model: Super But) that will hopefully feature in a video sometime later this year. There is a fellow who appears to specialise in restoring German radios called M Caldeira, his channel is ‘Electronics Old and New’. Go check him out if you are not familiar, I’m sure you will be impressed. Best regards Dave, from Phil.
HI again Phil. I do know Mr Caldeira and have been watching his videos for years, his explanations have been very helpful. I agree with you, a little radio diversity is good. Any Aussie radios in the UK would have been brought over by expats I would think, I can't see us exporting to the UK. All our club activities have been suspended until this virus is over. Thanks Phil and all the best 🙂
Well done. The ERO (ROEDENSTEIN) capacitors are the troublemakers. All capacitors that are filled with yellowish wachs, Black terr, and white plaster typisch material are paper capacitors wich leak horrible. On the opposite you have in these 50-60s German sets a lots of very stable ceramic capacitors and high quality parts, wich makes the really dependable with a very nice sound. The stuck changing mechanism for AM FM can be lubricated with brake cleaner, at least that had worked on my sets. But you have to make sure that it completely dried before you put power back on, if not you risk to set the set own fire as break cleaner burns well. Note that the 6E5C has a smaller negative grid voltage then the EM34 so the show might behaving different. but the 6E5C still seem very dark, too dark for a new tube. The soviet tubes usually don^t last as long as a proper Telefunken, Siemens, or Valvo tube. Wartung for episode two
Thanks Alex, I didn't see the name on the caps before I threw them away but I will heed your advice for future radios. The wave change dial indicator mechanism is working after I cleaned and adjusted it. The magic eye is ok as it is, once it was in the radio it was bright enough, I hope it lasts for a little while 😲👍😀
Hello David, these were the radios from my apprenticeship that started in Austria in 1972. But we did only repair,not restore it like you. Very good Job. Now in these Shity Covid Time i had Time to look your Vids.Thanks for Upload. Take Care of you😷 Graetings from Austria
Hi Arnie from Austria, (you aren't that Arnie are you?) Thanks for watching my videos, I have fun making them. This type of radio is out of my comfort zone I hope I can do it justice. Thank you and take care yourself 👍🙂
I've got a Grundig Majestic 3165 , a five band radio , that I picked up in Nurnberg , when I worked at Grundig. The radio cost me $ 100 in the Grundig family store , at the factory. It's still in original condition. I have never recapped it or repaired it other than a few tubes and pilot lamps. In the meantime I did fuse the line cord and the B+ lines. The receiver works perfectly on long wire AM and outside FM dipole. I did check the alignment and it was spot on. I have tested the filter caps and they look good. The piano key switches did need cleaning and lubricating. I'm hesitant to do anything to it. The radio keeps me company in my radio shop. I can play phono or tape through the rear 5 pin Din jack. The Audio is only monaural, but there is a three speaker sound system inside the cabinet with an external T jack on the back panel. When I bought this audio was only Hi-Fi. Stereo came along later in the mid 1960's. I bought it in 1964 , however I think it was NOS then. That's why I got a good price on it. Looks like yours is coming along nicely. Perhaps I'll be inspired by your success to recap the chassis.
$100 for a radio was pretty expensive in 1964 I would have thought Cosimo but there is so much work in these European sets. That works out to about $1.80 a year so far so still good value. I hope all is well with you virus wise 🙂
Good progress, David. You're smart insulating that bridge. I went to pick up a chassis on a Grundig German Radio and got a good belt as it was mounted to the side , YIKES! Looking forward to the next installment.
It's a nightmare John. I can understand getting belted with one these things. I have been very careful to remove power before I touch it but still got a belt from the filter cap while trying to locate the terminals to discharge it. I ended up mounting the bridge until I can get a replacement, it seemed safer 😲
@@DavidTipton101 Hi David, when you replace that selenium with a silicon bridge, your B+ will increase. Maybe that alone will make the eye tube brighter, although you say it's bright enough now. Cheers, and thanks for another great video!
Best "Blunderer" ever Hahaha David on your worst days I am sure you eclipse many others. Your fearless, at least it doesn't show through. I just admire your can do attitude. You know my grand dad had a sign in his shop that said "Make sure your right, then go ahead" He had other signs as well. Anyways, have a great weekend... Cheers M8
Very nice work David, great job finding the missing wire! We don't usually expect totally missing wires! Also, loved the capacitor modification with the wire shield that you added. Very nice magic eye holder clamp. Very professional work as always sir. Stay safe and in good health
This radio 📻 was much 👌 like a classic car 🚗 put to pasture after it's engine stops running. I'm so glad that 😊 ya saved it from going to the dump 😊. At least 😅, the cupboard was the guy's 👦 "pasture" for the radio. It stayed safe 🙏 that way. By the name, I'm guessing that the speaker 🔊 is field coil. I'm also guessing that 🤔 this radio 📻 is from circa 1956. Your friend, Jeff.
Hi Mary in Canada, I hope it's warming up you for you 🌞 I'm busy all right but it's difficult to get out for supplies so I have to stick to radios that I think I can finish without going to the shops 🙂
I enjoyed the restoration of the Normende radio. This week for me was a crossover point for more modern vintage radio receivers. Finding exact fit parts for a thirty year old solid state receiver is a challenge too. A scope is a necessary tool for solid state as there is no device pulling to test. Transistors can simply test in circuit with two to three voltage readings. Working on a solid state receiver offers several challenges from radio, phono to tape devices, its more like a system of sets. I'll still dabble in tube circuits, but have discovered a new affinity for transistor circuitry.
UKW = Ultra Korze Welle ( ultra short wave ore FM) M = Mittelwelle ( medium wave ) L = Langewelle ( long wave ) Though this would be a fun fact. Nice restauration , well done 👍🏻
Great video David, eagerly awaiting the follow-up, perhaps you'll find out why the magic eye is not bright enough! That missing wire to the screen pin was interesting! Walt in Miami
Hi Walt, once I mounted the eye in the radio it was ok, still a little dim but ok. It isn't getting the specified plate voltage but reducing it didn't make it less dim so I'm not sure. The missing wire was my fault, the original had broken off and I didn't notice it at the time. Keep safe in Miami 😀
Looking forward to the FM alignment. I've done many AM IF alignments but not FM. I'm sure it will be very detailed as are all your video's. Lovely work!
It would seem that radio might have made its way from the UK to AU. Radiospares in the UK was a huge supplier to the radio and TV trade back in the day, and I still use them for components myself. Those RS smoothing cans are actually not too bad! I have some NOS ones and they have responded well to reforming. I’d say that can was made in the very late 1950’s, so the original Elko or Siemens smoothing can must have had a short life! I mainly collect these German sets, and the Nordmende FM tuners in them are a real pain to work on sometimes. I recently did the later 1958 version of the Elektra, that had an open oscillator trimmer capacitor in the FM front end. That was a pain to replace!! Those ERO capacitors (toffee caps as we call them) are just awful! They don’t even taste like toffee either! Excellent work so far David, I shall watch part two shortly! G
HI George, thanks. I still use RS Components here, they have a large stock and deliver next day if it's in stock. I didn't want to go near the FM tuner and glad I didn't need to. I have another German set, a Kaiser, it was full of Wima brand toffee caps, every one of them was short and caused a bit of damage. Thanks George 👍🙂
I am impressed with the work so far Dave. I also like how you re-stuffed the filter capacitor (hiding the new caps inside the can to preserve a near-original appearance on the chassis). If there will be a part 2 I look forward to seeing it. :)
God i love nordmende, best radios ever , quality cannot be compared to anything else!! great video Dave !!! Usually the Band selector switches on the front suffer from carbon tracing and they short, but its not that common unless the radio is too old.
@@DavidTipton101 That is great, i believe Shango066 had one of these and it was a nightmare to get them out of the chassis, glad you did not need to do that 😃😃
Good evening David Sir A successful attempt to restore this German radio .I liked your idea to replace the capacitor into the metal body .Try keep original.A lots of thanks Sir.Awaiting your part 2 video.
@@DavidTipton101 You are well come. I managed to repair our old transistor radio philips 22rb192. It went silent, no oscillation. It was never the less an quite easy repair there were two 100uf (one in 1,7 v and other in 17 v line) caps with high esr. Thanks for all radio repair vids I managed to repair it and it works very well now.
One tip: I saw you working on the large capacitor on the lathe. To prevent the machine to be filled with dirty stuff, place a large sheet of paper over it, underneath the capacitor. It's easy to remove afterwards and your machine will nog get all the chemicals from the capacitor which might cause rust.
I know this selenium rectifier :D My radio has the same one - its made by Siemens. Siemens components have this "S" like Symbol as seen at 5:50 over the 5 and the C in "B250 C75". I replaced it with a more modern solution with Diodes + Zener to drop the voltage.
Hello Mr. Dave, finally I decided no work more in the Nordmende Elektra d12 radio repair, after a lot of man hours, money and patience I can't got the radio repair. I must tell you this is the first time this happen to me, I have repair a lot of tube radios from my own collection such as a Transoceanic Zenith G500, several tube radios GE 1949-1960, PHILCO tube radios 1960, ZENITH TUBE RADIO J508B, PACKARD BELL 5R1, MOTOROLA 55C1, RCA 6X5A, and more. I have an oppinion about the electronics design of german tube radios they work with a power supply of 220 vca and a rectifier to 220 vcd, this is dangerous in many ways, it is very difficult to find shortted circuits, the schematics from the manufacturer have conffused information. Thanks for all your support help, best regards.
That's unfortunate Rodolfo, I wouldn't worry so much about the high voltage, 120 will kill you as well as 220. Be very careful and don't touch anything when the set is powered. You need to break the set into pieces to determine where the fault is. Does it work on any of the bands, AM, LW and FM. Does the phono input produce a sound when you touch it, is there any hum from the speaker... things like that. Take a break and have another go next week. Good luck 🙂
Great job so far - these old German sets are some of my favorites and really they are hard to beat when going well. I am fairly sure yours was intended for the German market. Funnily enough, the first one I had (Grundig), someone had nicked the speaker out of it too. On older German home market sets, the FM band only goes up to 100 MHz.
Thanks SInewave423. I think you are right, it was made for the European market and it only goes to 100 MHz as you say. although it's been re-tuned to the full 108 MHz. The guy I purchased it from was Maltese so his grandfather may have brought it over from there 🤔🙂
Great! We had exactly the same back in the days! At 3:18 that grey case is the tuning capacitor. And to the left of it is the power transformer. So the chassis should not be connected directly to the mains.
Now thats Magic to the eye lol Good one David , may be the mice got at the radio when it was stored in the cupboard ,Great work and enjoyed ,Stay safe from the virus .
Wow, how many response you got over just 1 day... many people at home I guess.... UKW is the German acronym for Ultra Kurz Welle or in English, Ultra Short Wave ... so FM indeed ... hope you stay healthy and fit Dave ... nice job again ... looking forward to the end-result. Love from the Netherlands. Ruud
I love corresponding with the wonderful people who comment Ruud. Google translator has been working overtime deciphering German to english. Thank you for your kind wishes and hope all is well with you in the Netherlands
German radios are great engeering projects, I have many german radios and you can see the quality of construction. Great video !!!! I wait next video. Congratulation - Sao Paulo _ Brazil
@@douro20 A friend who used to work for Philips in the late 80s/early 90s and collects all sorts of vintage equipments told me the old saying "Lass die Hände von Nordmende!" (literally "Keep your hands off of Nordmende" but more like "steer clear of their products!"). I guess there were jokes like that about many manufacturers back then, like "Hat's geraucht und gestunken, war's wohl Telefunken!" (If it smoked and smelled it was probably Telefunken).
Like your approach. It is very methodological with attention to every detail. Thank you. I have a few German and Russian tubes radios and German one 90% capacitors are good and in Russian 90% of capacitors were bad. And Russian tubes are very good..
Hi Mike in the UK, Yes they sound very good, this one is a little basic but it should perform well I hope. Fingers crossed for Boris's return to good health 🤞
Whilst I do like the NordMende radio sets, especially the transistor portables et most of the earlier 'German' valve sets have some (Grundig was NO exception later on either.) real issues for wear and tear that can be seriously problematic to fix. 👀 The push button selector system is one example. The slider pins and contacts can wear to a point you have to strip out the entire unit and laboriously attempt to salvage it et 👀Getting at some parts, means stripping out and down (my partners fav occupation) 😁 Not forgetting of course, as per the Siemens radio gram that I am currently working on (1948) that has that SELENIUM rectifier, which I seldom have found other radios of the same era. where they have not failed. 👀 The FM or VHF system can be testing on the patience (if not the soul ). Seem to slip out of alignment AND the two valve system, EF41s re VHF have posed problems. We have to remember that the Germans et were very much in the early days of UHF / VHF (A lot of their communication field devices worked on UHF)👀 The power transformer was also destroyed probably by that selenium rectifier failing. 😒They also liked using the radio system et built in given sections. 👀Alright if you bear that in mind when working on them. Most of the circuit diagrams (my Siemens in particular) has set colour coding abbrev letters, values AND voltages (20,000 ohms per volt). I had the original power transformer rewound. Used new bridge rectifier / ballast resistor AND 4 main power electrolytics et Overall on the Siemens the voltages run to over 300v. 👀It also has five speakers. 2 mid, 1 low and two voltage powered tweeters. 2 LS output transformers. 3x15ohm, plus the tweeters. Cross over networks. The entire audio output stage is quite complex. 👀 9 valves. Power via the transformer gives 2 x 6.3 volt (2Amp) 240v (UK) primary with 300v x 2 secondaries (750mA). A second power transformer for the turntable unit et 55v x 2.👀 Internals now working and alignment OK. Switching trouble free. (finally 😒). Overall whilst I have THREE sets in my collection that are German sets I'm NOT crazy enough to desire adding any more thankyou! 😁NEWBIES! Many of the so called SYLVANIA valves are RUSSIAN made and even listed as direct equivalents they quite often are NOT! The QUALITY of the valves also is questionable. If you can source brand name western valves ? Do so. Ex military types can also be OK for replacements. I HAVE on occasion swapped out the valve bases and changed valve types/equivalents et The UKs Valve museum website and or the Radio museum website are superb for valve information, radio / electrical devices et NOT forgetting Ray's 'Radio workshop' (UK) website for a lot of really good info on radio and more. 👀 Thanks for the vid David. 👍 It is always good for others to appreciate someone's hard work, patience and achievements.
I cretainly understand modifyng the EM34 circuiit for a cheaper Magic Eye tube. Unless you are a purest the $98 plus shipping cost is a deal breaker for restoration. I like how you made the replacement "cap with 10mohm resistor" for noise quieting... genius. I am now hunting for one of these looks exciting.
I was happy to use the soviet eye, it's not a classic radio and the eye looks original when the radio is working. They are a nice radio and look good in a collection. Thanks Michael 🙂
I like that it has FM but I would have been a little upset that it was not complete, I like the look of having the eye in the Radio, I wonder if there is a way of adding one to a radio that was not manufactured with one,, hmm maybe my next project, lol,, looking forward to part 2, thank you for the video David 👌
Hi Melissa, the FM sure is handy but I like to support AM if I can, I might be the only one! It was missing a few bits but that's ok, I had replacements anyway and it would be pretty boring for me if all the bits were there 🙄 If the radio has AGV and enough voltage available it will probably support magic eye, you have to secure a ME valve first though, cheers and thanks Melissa 😀
I've restored many German sets in the past. You did well to restore the PSU cap (I wish I had a lathe) I usually either reform that cap or replace with a modern 50+50uF. I'm not a big fan of those small electrolytics you have fitted, as I've had bad experiences with them. Any ERO cap should be replaced on sight. Some of the silver coloured caps are not that bad and hold out quite well. Selenium rectifiers have got to go and replaced with a silicon bridge + ballast. EM34 tubes are ridiculously expensive so I use a Russian 6E5C tube re wired accordingly. Good luck.
Hi watchyMCFCwatchy, interesting comment about the caps, I haven't had any trouble with them but I've only been doing this for a short time. All the caps have now been replaced except the silver ones you mention. See part 2 re: selenium rectifier. I used a 6E5S in place of the EM34 too 🙂
HA! I did it again, thumbs up and I haven’t even watched the video!!!! Thanks so much for the video in these times, All I need to know is what type of scotch do you like and hopefully that you enjoy Scotch.
G'day David! I'm glad to see you took mine or someone elses advice when it comes to old electro's and their possible content of PCB's! the stuff isnt friendly so good to see you took it seroiusly! great entertainment as always. I myself would like to try and fix one grundig or the like German valve radio one day
Hi David; you have made a error with the capacitor with the 3 connections. The third connection is not a shield but it is a build in 10 Meg resistor. You realy have to change it. Look at the capacitor, it says so on the label ! ...You can also see it in the schematic. I know some capacitors with 3 legs are indeed a shield ( like the ero )…. not this one. Greetings....Dirk from Belgium.
Thank you Dirk, I have realised my mistake and added a complete 'Thanks Dirk' to the next video. I had no idea of what you were saying and had to fish the old cap from the bin and dissect it, it had a resistor in there! I guess that's the difference between experience and me. Thank you for pointing that out Dirk, cheers 👍😀
Excellent video Mr Tipton, thanks for uploading!! I am currently restoring EXACTLY the same Nordmende Elektra and have filmed it to upload on YT in a week or so. This is such an amazing coincidence! Imagine 2 people restoring a 1958 radio, same make and type in the same month of 2020. I was gobsmacked when I saw your video just now :-) Just some quick info if i may: @ 15:40 you fell for the same thing as i did initially, that cap is not shielded, its a 0,01 cap plus 10 meg resistor combo, visible on the schematic as R57 and C97 in that square dotted outline, I just soldered a resistor between pin 8 of the EABC80 and chassis, its the grid pullup for the triode section. I didnt see you replace the electrolytic C87 , you point at it @15:27. This one is FM ratio cap, veery important to replace, even if the old one tests good it is not. The ECC85 often goes duff and also the ECH81. Although the ECH may work fine as the converter on AM, it may perform weak on FM where it doubles up as the 1st IF amp. I always swap those 2 valves against known good ones from another radio before attempting to alter the tuning of any coils, especially those in the FM tuner, the factory settings are almost always the best. For the magic eye I went a totally different route using a cheap 6AL7GT with a small tweak, will dedicate a separate video for that. The labeled terminal strip on the rear of the chassis is a row of test terminals Nordmende used to access all relevant test points in the schematic without removing the chassis, quite a useful aid when repairing... Cheers from Germany, Ralph
Hi Ralph, that is quite a coincidence. The cap and resistor was shielded, I just missed that it had a resistor in it as well as the capacitor. I didn't replace that C87 cap, it was the only one I didn't do, as you say, it tested perfectly. I will change it when I fit the new grill cloth, thanks. I didn't have any spare tubes to swap in for comparison, I was lucky to have the two missing tubes. The AM and FM coils had been fiddled with at a previous time so I needed to align them. I looked at the 6AL7GT but the exchange rate and postage makes them too expensive here. I assume it works OK. Good luck with your project 👍
@@DavidTipton101 Hello David. Great video and very helpful as I am working on the same model. Regarding that shielded Cap, C97. Mine did not have that 10M resistor, R57, and I assume yours didn't either. Did you add it like Mr. Roehre recommends? I'm curious partly because I was puzzled by it and also because I am getting 200 VDC at pin 9 of the EABC80 and can't figure out why since caps have been changed and resistors checked.
Hi David, Around 6:00 That electrolyte looks okay to me: tolerance on this type of capacitor is generally -20 +50% Now I will watch the rest of the video 😊 Ah, too late I see. Maybe for the next German radio. 😎 .. No German voice coming out of the speaker, how odd 🤓 Looking forward to the next episode. Cheers 👍
Hi Plons0Nard , ha-ha, yeah should have had some German content in there. I have come to think that if a capacitor is reading high it is probably faulty. If the manufacturer can't make a cap within a few percentile of the advertised value it shouldn't be in there anyway, I think the best option is to change them if in doubt 👍🙂
Wayne Shirey Speaking of Red Green, when Dave said “this is only temporary,” I was thinking Red would have said, “This is only temporary - unless it works.”
You might want to put a 47k resistor in line with the target to prevent it from wearing out so fast. It gets a bit dim, of course, but that's barely noticeable.
HI DAVE! #7 this week! Love watching your vids. One thing that bothers me about radios from "down under" is that the dial is marked with the radio stations not the frequency you are tuning in. Stations can come and go but the frequency will always be the same. Otherwise, great video again :D
Hi Wayne, Yes that's very true. Stations move frequency and the frequency spacing changed making a mockery of the staton call signs. Having said that, I grew up in Melbourne and the stations are pretty much where they were in the 60s 🙂
Ha-ha, I haven't heard 'Good Gravy' for a while 😄 I'm working my way through it TGG but there is so much I don't know about this type of radio, hopefully I will get there in the end 🤞🙂
Nice radio, love the Nord Mendes, but you managed to a waste a perfectly good crossword puzzle, mate. These days they're practically legal tender ;). I enjoyed the magic eye swap-out. I plan to do the same with a 1950s Japanese radio that didn't come with one, but I found a nearly identical schematic that does show one. So, my radio will get an upgrade.
Yeah, sorry about the crossword SY, I don't know what I was thinking 🤦♂️ If you plan to use the same eye as I did there is a 6E5 'S' version which uses less grid voltage for full closed 🙂
Interesting project. I never found magic eyes of any practical use for tuning in a receiver, where my ears are better, but they are useful for recording levels on tape recorders and also on capacitor testers. BTW: The German word Mende is pronounced like 'mender' (with a soft r).
Hi James, Signal strength meters have been around for years before the magic eye. I agree, I just tune in the station. I would stop short of saying it was gimmick but I bet radios with 'Magic Eye' were easier to sell 😀 Ha-ha, I knew I would be picked up for my pronunciation of Nordmende, I will stick the the aussie pronunciation for now, we can't even pronounce Stralya, cheers 😄
@@James_Bowie It might be my pronunciation I think. I looked up some Aussie TV ads and they did pronounce it with a soft 'r', the American ads pronounce it as I did. I have never heard anyone pronounce it here with the soft 'r' in person. I looked at other videos and people pronounce it both ways. Bit like Miele appliances, it was always pronounced with an hard E years ago now it must be pronounced with the soft R or you get a frown from the salesman .
Dear David Tipton, PC30 Sat 4 April 2020. I am leaving a COMMENT as I testing due to UA-cams "fiddling" with their System. PC30 Cheerio Juan. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The German technology is always impressive. I have always liked the classy, white plastic and the advanced features. Did we have FM when this was new? I don't think so. Total contrast to the last video. Cheers
@@DavidTipton101 Austria had the first commercial FM broadcast in 1955 and I think Germany was a several years ahead, possibly even in the late 40s. AM had become a niche by the 1970s I think. By now it's fairly quiet on AM, only a few stations left, I think one in France and some in Russia and even further east. I suppose FM was originally most popular in densely populated areas.
@@DavidTipton101 As I said, it had become a niche by the 70s or 80s, so eventually shutting it down was logical from an economic point of view. Still sad to see though! I was there when the Bisamberg station tower was demolished in 2010, quite an experience (they used explosives to take down the steel tower)! That was the last AM transmitter in Austria.
German paper capacitors sometimes look different, those white ones are surely fine? I bought a small HV insulation tester from China a few years ago that can test up to 1000V and it runs off one 9V battery. If I am not sure about the capacitor (perhaps it is a type that I never saw before), it will tell you instantly if it is good or bad (or if it is about to fail). For the FM, test all the valves first (especially the ECC85 and EABC80, if the set has one). There could also be a dried up 5uF stabilising capacitor in the ratio detector circuit that sometimes causes distortion. And check if the IF cores are still untouched, as there might have been someone in before with the screwdriver there. FM alignment is a bit tricky, the best way is to use a sweep generator (wobbulator) and a scope.
Hi michvod, I have replaced the wax caps and the white ones now as well, I thought the white ones tested ok but I tested them again and they were suspect so out they went. I have a Chinese tester, might be the same as yours. I will check the caps in the ratio detector section but I think I got them all, thanks for the heads up. The IFcans have definitely been 'touched', I will sort that in the next video. I don't have a sweep generator so I will do it as the service sheets suggest. It is my first FM alignment, wish me luck 👍😀
Nice to see a Magic Eye again ! Looking forward to part 2. I've been working through your vids this week here in shutdown UK - you certainly are good at fixing the appearance of these radios, as well as the electronics. I grew up with valves in the late 60s/70s, and although the electronics hold no fears for me, case repairs do :o) When you print onto wet transfer sheets, is your printer an inkjet or a laser ? I enjoyed watching you making new acrylic windows for dials in two vids by different methods. Now you've prompted me to go and look for a small isolation transformer like your Aussie one - I've never owned one and I think I should. I do have a dim bulb tester though, built to test a friend's Pye 15A. It does't look as good as your latest dim bulb tester version though - what a great front panel ! Is the Pye 19A (I think) on your shelving due for a repair, or is that already done ? I had never seen an Aussie AM bc band dial before - with the states and two-letter idents all marked - new knowledge for me. Request - when you repair a radio with SW, could you whizz the dial through that band just for those of us that like to hear that, as well as the AM bc band ? Ta ! Atb, Dave (GW4FIC)
Hi Dave, thank you. I use a laser printer, the transfer sheets are different for both types of printer. The isolation transformer is a good safety device for all repairs but essential for hot chassis sets. The Pye set has been done, it is an Australian model APM I think. It was in bad shape and I had to re-veneer it, I did it before UA-cam. It had an intermittent fault where it would work all day and the next day there was no sound, turn it off and on and it was ok again, it was a head scratcher. It turned out to be a bad connection in an IF transformer. Aussie dials pretty much all had that layout. I can't get much in the way of SW reception due to my location and limitations for a decent antenna. I can get some of the islands north of us and sometimes NZ stations. There is at least one SW Aussie station but they operate at a higher frequency than most radios I have. I only have two radios with that frequency range and one is the Pye set. I might dust it off one day 🙂 ATB
Do you have any videos on repairing the buttons. I have to press the buttons lightly to get them to stay down. If I press quick or too hard they pop back on. Referring the the band selection buttons.
Hi muxxor. I don't have anything specific on that but it sounds like the lock plate on the switch pack is slow to move to the latch position. The latch plate is a thin strip of metal that transverses the width of the switch pack. When you press a key the lightly sprung plate slips behind a slot on each key mechanism. Yours may have a broken or weak spring or the latch plate is gummed up making it slow to react when you press a key. When the 'Off" key is pressed it pushes the latch plate away to unlatch any latched keys. Check and clean the the latch plate and make sure it moves freely and the spring is still doing it's job. There may be another cause of course but that seems to be what you are experiencing Good Luck 🙂
Hello Mr. Dave, I will appreciate your valious help, I got a Nordmende Elektra d12 German radio, after a full restore including a new diode full wave rectifier, the outlet voltage from the rectifier is 375 VCD and the transformer voltage in to the rectifier is 257 VCA; the radio schematics show a voltage maximum of 257/262 VCD, my question is how make a voltage drop from 375 VCD to 257 VCD?? It also the two light bulb terminals are shorted when one of the termimals is grounded, this is detected with a bulb dim protecction. I know ohms law, but please give your opinnion; thanks a lot.
Hi Rodolfo, is the radio working? Do you have the magic eye fitted and working? If so, there is something wrong either with your measurements or maybe the primary transformer tapping is set to the wrong voltage. Test the filament voltage is 6.3volts AC. The voltage rise from replacing the rectifier should be in the order of 20 to 30 Volts. 120 Volts is way too much. German radios operate on 220 Volts usually if not an export model, your local voltage may be higher than that 🙂
Excellent job so far. Think the Russian magic eye 6E5C isn't getting enough voltage. Maybe the resistor drifted or your not getting 220V. There are some switch contacts that may need cleaning. May need to replace capacitor C80 in circuit too. Seen a video of one in action on UA-cam. It should be very bright!
Hi HTM, thank you. Yes, I agree the eye is underpowered I think it requires 250V but the supply is 210V or 225V depending on the wave selection, the supply voltages are correct per the schematic. The eye is dimmer than it should be but quite bright enough when in the cabinet. I replaced all the white caps including C80 and the replacement is mentioned in part 2. The few I measured originally came up spot on so I left the rest but a check later on revealed they were all out of tolerance so out they went 🙂
Nice radio David, hope you solved the magic eye. Looks like the anode voltage is low or maybe something odd like the cathode high, maybe a resistor. Thoroughly messed with but not a project killer thankfully.
The anode voltage is a little low (230V not 250V) but boosting it made no difference, the cathode is at ground potential. When the eye is fitted in the radio it looks ok, not great but ok.
Not a good idea to have the capacitor residue dripping on the lathe ways. If you can somehow find 12v for the filament, a type 1629 eye tube (war surplus) might also work. That Ruskie valve seems to have low emission.
The lathe has survived no worries thanks scharkalvin. Good info re the 1629, I found an article for making an adaptor for converting from 6E5, unfortunately there are none available locally so I would have to import them from the US or Europe and would cost over $100 🤦♂️🙄
Excellent video. The radio was a bit incomplete when you got it. What were the missing valves ? ( ECC83 and ECH81 ) they are very common European valves. Great job on that filter cap replacement.
Thanks RODALCO2007. The missing valves were ECH81 and EF89. I had one that had been cataloged and the other I found at the bottom of a very large box of valves. I doubt I have any of the other valves 👍😀
Nice to see the Radio Spares (now RS Components) capacitor. This company was first introduced to me as a school kid in the science lab probably 55 years ago.
I use them quite a bit Michael, They charge a bit more but I order on my PC and parts generally arrive next day, their range is excellent.
Great video! I very much appreciate your ascetic. Doing a complete restoration, doing both the electrical and physical restoration to a high degree is just superb. Your videos are like boxes on Christmas morning.
Charlie
Thank you Charlie, everyone likes christmas boxes 🎁🎁🎁😀
InstaBlaster
Top number video. A real pleasure to watch. Thanks David.
Hi Dave, thank you for watching 👍🙂
I truly enjoy watching your videos. Your commentary during the repair process is great. Waiting for part 2!
I’ve got a few German sets I’m not quite brave enough to dive into yet- it’s encouraging watching your work.
Hi Jim, thank you. It does take a bit of bravery (for me) to tackle these sets but I'm learning as I go and so far I have found it interesting, very different to what I'm used to 🙂
Thanks for continuing vids David. Stay safe.
Thanks for watching them Paul and stay safe too 👍🙂
Yes! Master David with a german radio. Perfect day! I have an old wega at my parents home, and a bakelite cute little telefunken meky. I never even tried to turn them on, I don't have a variac and I don't want to burn or ruin them. Maybe in the future I will get to repair them, who knows. Keep up the good work David.
Hi Luigi, it would be nice to get them going again but yes, don't plug them in without at least a dim bulb. Thanks 👍🙂
It's so strange when there's a wire completely missing - it makes me wonder if it ever worked! Wonderful restoration and I can't wait to see the next parts. For me here in Hungary these videos make perfect breakfast television!
Hi Dave, when reviewing the full video I noticed there was a wire hanging from the original filter capacitor, I neglected to replace it when I redid the capacitor. It just shows I should have studied the schematic better 🤦♂️🙂
my partner's aunt worked at Nordemende assembling radios in the 50s and 60s.... so this one is rather special... ...great job as ever David!
Hi Chris b, she may have worked on my one. Thanks 😀
I really enjoyed watching this video. Your camera work is excellent, and the pace is perfect. My videos tend to be too packed with waffle, and probably bore some people to tears :)
You said you learnt from me, and now I’m happy to admit that I’m learning from you.
PS : I told you so :)
Two good Radio hobbyists 1600 km apart learning from each other, who said the Internet's a waste of time.
Thanks EOaNbMC, I appreciate your feedback. I also appreciate your clear explanation of a circuit and how it works or why it's not, that is of great benefit to me and others, keep doing what you are doing.
I can't imagine you learn much from me but thanks 🙂
P.S. you were right 😀
A bit closer to 19,000 km apart 👍😀
Thanks TheAndy 😀
Excellent work David on a daunting project. The manufacturers certainly had a different way of thinking. Good luck and I look forward to the next video.
Hi Lynton, thank you, it is daunting but I'm getting used to it, I can almost understand the circuit now 🙂
Hi David - great to find you working on another radio - really interesting how you trouble-shoot the problems... and your metal work skills are always excellent. Looking forward to the next step in the process.
Hi Kenneth, thank you 😀
Welcome David to the wonderful, modern world of FM! Certainly an interesting change. Look forward to seeing how this progresses.
Hi Gary, FM is a challenge for me and it means a bit of new equipment if I want to do it properly. interesting time ahead for sure 🙂
Thanks David, very interesting design, much appreciated, looking forward to the next installment.
Thank you Alan 🙂
Learning from this wonderfully narrated diagnosis ,next plan to do my Grundig radio caps .
Hi Afzaal Khan.M, I hope it works for you 😀
No better way to spend a friday evening than watching a new video from you! This radio is much closer in construction to my Philips B5SF84A than the pre-FM radios you're usually working on. Hoping to catch a few good tips for future repairs!
Hi
Bumper3D, thank you. Please use what I do as a guide only, I'm in uncharted waters here 🚤🙂
I'd love something like that for my bedroom! Should sound very good on FM. Looking forward to part 2!
Hi Paul, my wife has it earmarked for our everyday radio already 😀
Looking forward for the next part, well done so far.
Hi Bruce, "so far so good" said the man falling past the 32nd floor 😀
I've been putting off replacing a dim 6G5 / 6U5 magic eye with a more readily available equivalent and suitably rewired base. David, I now have the motivation to get it done. Stay safe and thanks. Terry.
Hi Terry, you must do it. Thank you, stay safe too 😀
You'll have to re-bias the tube since it has higher gain than a 6G5, but other than that it should work without much issue.
I say go for a nice detailed three part series on this radio, wonderful part one. Had to look up what a Magic Eye was so I learned something this morning. "Stay at Home" got extended through the month of April here in Illinois, so looking forward to more content ASAP!!!
Hi David, There will be three parts. I only have a few radios with magic eye and love them. You guys are doing it tough over there and are on our news every night. Hopefully you will be over the hump soon, it's so tragic. Keep safe and thank you for watching 😀
These old Nordmendes are lovely and sound great. The Germans call those wax/tar capacitors "Teerbomben" (Tar bombs) and you should replace them on sight. I saw a few still in the chassis that I would replace, simply because they will become conductive sooner or later and that puts an extra load on the high voltage windings of the power transformer with ugly consequences. You'll see the difference in the watts drawn after the cap job.
Hi Derek, you were mentioned in discussions with your friend in Madeira. Which caps should I replace? I went through and replaced all the white ones which I will document in part 3. All the traditional waxies are gone and the filter caps as well. The selenium rectifier is replaced in part 2. The clear capacitors are in low voltage areas and seem ok. Did I miss something 🤔👍
@@DavidTipton101 At 12:51 I see a big boy at the 11:00 position. 17:01 bang in the center of the screen, They like to put 0.1uF' s on the supply line to the tubes in the RF and IF stages. If you have already replaced them then no worries.
@@DerekHerbst747 At 12:51 there is a black paper waxie with orange paper wrapping , I have replaced that. At 17:01 there is a clear plastic cap with red paper in it, below that is a black cap that is a replacement cap. If it's the black one it's a replacement black cap that I use, if it's the clear one let me know and I will change it. I use black ones as they don't stand out like yellow ones. Hope all is well with you and your work, aviation has been hit hard, thanks for your help Derek this project is a stretch for me 🙄😀
@@DavidTipton101 I've never had one of those clear Polystyrene caps fail on me. All the paper ones is what I meant. I am sure you've nailed them all.
@@DerekHerbst747 Great, thanks Derek. I also found the white caps leaky so replaced them too
I think is is good for one to turn their hand to restoring foreign Vintage Radios once in a while ...a change is as good as a rest as they say LOL. One of a number of reasons why I’m turning my hand towards restoring American Vintage Radios. From where you are, it adds an Australian perspective to restoring a German radio. I suppose it’s like me, a Brit, who adds a British perspective to restoring American radios. It all adds to what is the colourful hobby of radio restoration and repair around the world.
Each year a few Australian Vintage Radios crop up, here in England, at various amateur radio fests, swap meets, and Vintage Radio fairs -doubtless they will have been postponed, or cancelled due to Corvid-19. Normally, after buying British radios I then go on the lookout for American, and Canadian types, so, from now on, Australian, and New Zealand radios will be on my ‘look out for’ list ...they certainly look interesting. Having said that, I have recently acquired a French radio, Radialva (model: Super But) that will hopefully feature in a video sometime later this year.
There is a fellow who appears to specialise in restoring German radios called M Caldeira, his channel is ‘Electronics Old and New’. Go check him out if you are not familiar, I’m sure you will be impressed.
Best regards Dave, from Phil.
HI again Phil. I do know Mr Caldeira and have been watching his videos for years, his explanations have been very helpful. I agree with you, a little radio diversity is good. Any Aussie radios in the UK would have been brought over by expats I would think, I can't see us exporting to the UK. All our club activities have been suspended until this virus is over. Thanks Phil and all the best 🙂
Your videos are never to long.
Hi Willi, thank you. this one was heading towards 60 minutes so got chopped 👍🙂
Well done. The ERO (ROEDENSTEIN) capacitors are the troublemakers. All capacitors that are filled with yellowish wachs, Black terr, and white plaster typisch material are paper capacitors wich leak horrible. On the opposite you have in these 50-60s German sets a lots of very stable ceramic capacitors and high quality parts, wich makes the really dependable with a very nice sound.
The stuck changing mechanism for AM FM can be lubricated with brake cleaner, at least that had worked on my sets. But you have to make sure that it completely dried before you put power back on, if not you risk to set the set own fire as break cleaner burns well.
Note that the 6E5C has a smaller negative grid voltage then the EM34 so the show might behaving different.
but the 6E5C still seem very dark, too dark for a new tube. The soviet tubes usually don^t last as long as a proper Telefunken, Siemens, or Valvo tube.
Wartung for episode two
Thanks Alex, I didn't see the name on the caps before I threw them away but I will heed your advice for future radios. The wave change dial indicator mechanism is working after I cleaned and adjusted it. The magic eye is ok as it is, once it was in the radio it was bright enough, I hope it lasts for a little while 😲👍😀
Hello David, these were the radios from my apprenticeship that started in Austria in 1972.
But we did only repair,not restore it like you. Very good Job.
Now in these Shity Covid Time i had Time to look your Vids.Thanks for Upload.
Take Care of you😷
Graetings from Austria
Hi Arnie from Austria, (you aren't that Arnie are you?) Thanks for watching my videos, I have fun making them. This type of radio is out of my comfort zone I hope I can do it justice. Thank you and take care yourself 👍🙂
I've got a Grundig Majestic 3165 , a five band radio , that I picked up in Nurnberg , when I worked at Grundig. The radio cost me $ 100 in the Grundig family store , at the factory. It's still in original condition. I have never recapped it or repaired it other than a few tubes and pilot lamps. In the meantime I did fuse the line cord and the B+ lines. The receiver works perfectly on long wire AM and outside FM dipole. I did check the alignment and it was spot on. I have tested the filter caps and they look good. The piano key switches did need cleaning and lubricating. I'm hesitant to do anything to it. The radio keeps me company in my radio shop. I can play phono or tape through the rear 5 pin Din jack. The Audio is only monaural, but there is a three speaker sound system inside the cabinet with an external T jack on the back panel. When I bought this audio was only Hi-Fi. Stereo came along later in the mid 1960's. I bought it in 1964 , however I think it was NOS then. That's why I got a good price on it. Looks like yours is coming along nicely. Perhaps I'll be inspired by your success to recap the chassis.
$100 for a radio was pretty expensive in 1964 I would have thought Cosimo but there is so much work in these European sets. That works out to about $1.80 a year so far so still good value. I hope all is well with you virus wise 🙂
Good progress, David. You're smart insulating that bridge. I went to pick up a chassis on a Grundig German Radio and got a good belt as it was mounted to the side , YIKES! Looking forward to the next installment.
It's a nightmare John. I can understand getting belted with one these things. I have been very careful to remove power before I touch it but still got a belt from the filter cap while trying to locate the terminals to discharge it. I ended up mounting the bridge until I can get a replacement, it seemed safer 😲
@@DavidTipton101 Hi David, when you replace that selenium with a silicon bridge, your B+ will increase. Maybe that alone will make the eye tube brighter, although you say it's bright enough now. Cheers, and thanks for another great video!
@@quantumleap359 Yes it did but I dropped it back to the spec B+ so no advantage. The eye is bright enough though 🙂
Best "Blunderer" ever Hahaha David on your worst days I am sure you eclipse many others. Your fearless, at least it doesn't show through. I just admire your can do attitude.
You know my grand dad had a sign in his shop that said "Make sure your right, then go ahead" He had other signs as well. Anyways, have a great weekend... Cheers M8
Hi Craig, thanks for the confidence boost 😀 Your Grandad was a wise man. Cheers and all the best 👍🙂
What a great idea making a shield for the capacitor.
Thanks Jonny 👍😀
Very nice work David, great job finding the missing wire! We don't usually expect totally missing wires! Also, loved the capacitor modification with the wire shield that you added. Very nice magic eye holder clamp. Very professional work as always sir. Stay safe and in good health
Hi Gregg, thank you. You do very professional work yourself. Thanks, and stay safe yourself 😀
Will definitly join you for part 2 or 3 etc. Good stuff indeed.
Thank you John 😀
This radio 📻 was much 👌 like a classic car 🚗 put to pasture after it's engine stops running. I'm so glad that 😊 ya saved it from going to the dump 😊. At least 😅, the cupboard was the guy's 👦 "pasture" for the radio. It stayed safe 🙏 that way. By the name, I'm guessing that the speaker 🔊 is field coil. I'm also guessing that 🤔 this radio 📻 is from circa 1956. Your friend, Jeff.
Thanks Jeff. The problem was it didn't have a speaker when I opened the case 😄
A wonderful resurrection process Dave thanks 🙏
Thank you Ali 👍😀
Hi David, nice radio, glad your keeping busy in these COVID 19 times. Keep safe and all the best from Canada.
Hi Mary in Canada, I hope it's warming up you for you 🌞 I'm busy all right but it's difficult to get out for supplies so I have to stick to radios that I think I can finish without going to the shops 🙂
I enjoyed the restoration of the Normende radio. This week for me was a crossover point for more modern vintage radio receivers. Finding exact fit parts for a thirty year old solid state receiver is a challenge too. A scope is a necessary tool for solid state as there is no device pulling to test. Transistors can simply test in circuit with two to three voltage readings. Working on a solid state receiver offers several challenges from radio, phono to tape devices, its more like a system of sets. I'll still dabble in tube circuits, but have discovered a new affinity for transistor circuitry.
Thanks Cosimo, I would like to do some solid state equipment too but it's a big learning curve for me, good luck with your projects 👍😀
UKW = Ultra Korze Welle ( ultra short wave ore FM)
M = Mittelwelle ( medium wave )
L = Langewelle ( long wave )
Though this would be a fun fact.
Nice restauration , well done 👍🏻
That is a fun fact JD, my German has improved enormously in the past week, you and Google translator have been a big help 👍😀
I sure enjoy watching your videos. Thank you.
Thank you Phil, I appreciate that 😀
You are a brave soul. those German radios are very tricky. Brilliant Engineering, but very very tricky.
Good work sir!
Thank you Bill. Yes, a bit daunting for me and the information being in German doesn't help 🙄😀
Great video David, eagerly awaiting the follow-up, perhaps you'll find out why the magic eye is not bright enough! That missing wire to the screen pin was interesting! Walt in Miami
Hi Walt, once I mounted the eye in the radio it was ok, still a little dim but ok. It isn't getting the specified plate voltage but reducing it didn't make it less dim so I'm not sure. The missing wire was my fault, the original had broken off and I didn't notice it at the time. Keep safe in Miami 😀
Looking forward to the FM alignment. I've done many AM IF alignments but not FM. I'm sure it will be very detailed as are all your video's. Lovely work!
HI Ian, don't expect too much, this is my first one 🙄
It would seem that radio might have made its way from the UK to AU. Radiospares in the UK was a huge supplier to the radio and TV trade back in the day, and I still use them for components myself.
Those RS smoothing cans are actually not too bad! I have some NOS ones and they have responded well to reforming. I’d say that can was made in the very late 1950’s, so the original Elko or Siemens smoothing can must have had a short life!
I mainly collect these German sets, and the Nordmende FM tuners in them are a real pain to work on sometimes. I recently did the later 1958 version of the Elektra, that had an open oscillator trimmer capacitor in the FM front end. That was a pain to replace!!
Those ERO capacitors (toffee caps as we call them) are just awful! They don’t even taste like toffee either!
Excellent work so far David, I shall watch part two shortly!
G
HI George, thanks. I still use RS Components here, they have a large stock and deliver next day if it's in stock. I didn't want to go near the FM tuner and glad I didn't need to. I have another German set, a Kaiser, it was full of Wima brand toffee caps, every one of them was short and caused a bit of damage. Thanks George 👍🙂
Hatte das gleiche Radio auch vor einiger Zeit. Schön zu sehen wie es von dir restauriert wird
Danke Johannes, ich hoffe ich kann es ein gutes Beispiel machen 🤞🙂
I am impressed with the work so far Dave. I also like how you re-stuffed the filter capacitor (hiding the new caps inside the can to preserve a near-original appearance on the chassis). If there will be a part 2 I look forward to seeing it. :)
Hi RJ2018, Thank you. Yes, part 2 is on the way... and part 3 🙄🙂
Good job David professionel Work 🇩🇰🇩🇰
Hi Tommy in Denmark, thank you 🙂
God i love nordmende, best radios ever , quality cannot be compared to anything else!! great video Dave !!!
Usually the Band selector switches on the front suffer from carbon tracing and they short, but its not that common unless the radio is too old.
Hi Amr, thank you. Yes, quite a well built radio. I was worried about the selector switches but they worked ok after a clean 😀
@@DavidTipton101 That is great, i believe Shango066 had one of these and it was a nightmare to get them out of the chassis, glad you did not need to do that 😃😃
Priority one stay safe, appreciate your video
Hi Mack, yes that is a priority, Thank you 🙂
Good evening David Sir A successful attempt to restore this German radio .I liked your idea to replace the capacitor into the metal body .Try keep original.A lots of thanks Sir.Awaiting your part 2 video.
Thank you Rakesh Kumar Sharma, part 2 next week 👍😀
Excellent! Thank you. Waiting for part 2.
Thank you saarike 😀
@@DavidTipton101 You are well come. I managed to repair our old transistor radio philips 22rb192. It went silent, no oscillation. It was never the less an quite easy repair there were two 100uf (one in 1,7 v and other in 17 v line) caps with high esr. Thanks for all radio repair vids I managed to repair it and it works very well now.
@@saarike Cool 👍🙂
@@DavidTipton101 Thank you
One tip: I saw you working on the large capacitor on the lathe. To prevent the machine to be filled with dirty stuff, place a large sheet of paper over it, underneath the capacitor. It's easy to remove afterwards and your machine will nog get all the chemicals from the capacitor which might cause rust.
Thanks De Mus, good idea 👍🙂
I know this selenium rectifier :D My radio has the same one - its made by Siemens. Siemens components have this "S" like Symbol as seen at 5:50 over the 5 and the C in "B250 C75". I replaced it with a more modern solution with Diodes + Zener to drop the voltage.
Thanks Kevka Bluebird, I replaced it with diodes and a dropping resistor 🙂
looking forward to seeing the follow up. really like the magic eye tubes. :)
Thanks Brian, I like the 'eye' too 😀
German radios are my favorite, looking forward to the next installment.
Hi Phillip, it's all a bit daunting for me, hopefully I will get it working again 🤞🙂
Hello Mr. Dave, finally I decided no work more in the Nordmende Elektra d12 radio repair, after a lot of man hours, money and patience I can't got the radio repair. I must tell you this is the first time this happen to me, I have repair a lot of tube radios from my own collection such as a Transoceanic Zenith G500, several tube radios GE 1949-1960, PHILCO tube radios 1960, ZENITH TUBE RADIO J508B, PACKARD BELL 5R1, MOTOROLA 55C1, RCA 6X5A, and more. I have an oppinion about the electronics design of german tube radios they work with a power supply of 220 vca and a rectifier to 220 vcd, this is dangerous in many ways, it is very difficult to find shortted circuits, the schematics from the manufacturer have conffused information. Thanks for all your support help, best regards.
That's unfortunate Rodolfo, I wouldn't worry so much about the high voltage, 120 will kill you as well as 220. Be very careful and don't touch anything when the set is powered. You need to break the set into pieces to determine where the fault is. Does it work on any of the bands, AM, LW and FM. Does the phono input produce a sound when you touch it, is there any hum from the speaker... things like that. Take a break and have another go next week. Good luck 🙂
Great job so far - these old German sets are some of my favorites and really they are hard to beat when going well. I am fairly sure yours was intended for the German market. Funnily enough, the first one I had (Grundig), someone had nicked the speaker out of it too. On older German home market sets, the FM band only goes up to 100 MHz.
Thanks SInewave423. I think you are right, it was made for the European market and it only goes to 100 MHz as you say. although it's been re-tuned to the full 108 MHz. The guy I purchased it from was Maltese so his grandfather may have brought it over from there 🤔🙂
Прекрасный экземпляр. Сохранился хорошо. Вид шикарный. Шкала неплохо информатированна.. Девид поздравляю с находкой.
Спасибо РАДИО ВЛАСТЬ. Я был очень счастлив найти это радио. Я надеюсь, что смогу сделать хорошую работу на этом 😀
@@DavidTipton101 у тебя это отлично получается. Иначе я бы и не смотрел.
@@radiopower4150 Ха-ха, хорошо, спасибо Radio Power
Excellent video Mr Tipton your the man 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Phil, thank you 🦘🦘🦘
Never knew there was a 6E5C tube. Cheap too. Easy rewire. Thx to you and Radio Museum !!!
Hi atwaterkent911, yep, cheap and work ok too 😀
6E5C (actually 6E5S since the C in Cyrillic is an S in Latin script) is a 6E5 with an octal base.
@@douro20 Thanks for straightening that out, I read somewhere that the C and S required a different grid voltage. I now think that was misleading.
Great! We had exactly the same back in the days! At 3:18 that grey case is the tuning capacitor. And to the left of it is the power transformer. So the chassis should not be connected directly to the mains.
Hi Ewald, thanks. yep, got all that now thanks. This type of radio is a new experience for me so a few surprises in there 😀
Great work David and so relaxing to watch and hear you work, if we can call this work right? More like a passion. As always thank's for sharing :-)
Yes SargentRay, it is a passion, I never know what will happen next. Thank you and it's my pleasure to share 😀
Now thats Magic to the eye lol Good one David , may be the mice got at the radio when it was stored in the cupboard ,Great work and enjoyed ,Stay safe from the virus .
Hi Doc, something got to it in the cupboard that's for sure. Thanks Doc, I hope all is well with you 👍🙂
Wow, how many response you got over just 1 day... many people at home I guess.... UKW is the German acronym for Ultra Kurz Welle or in English, Ultra Short Wave ... so FM indeed ... hope you stay healthy and fit Dave ... nice job again ... looking forward to the end-result. Love from the Netherlands. Ruud
I love corresponding with the wonderful people who comment Ruud. Google translator has been working overtime deciphering German to english. Thank you for your kind wishes and hope all is well with you in the Netherlands
The artist strikes again..
Thanks
Prakash 😀
Very Very good to see you on my Favorite Radios
Thanks ACHF 😀
German radios are great engeering projects, I have many german radios and you can see the quality of construction.
Great video !!!!
I wait next video.
Congratulation - Sao Paulo _ Brazil
And Nordmende was definitely one of the best.
@@douro20 Hello douro20, I am curious, where part of the world are you ?
@@vintageradiosfernandoberna6041 Midwestern United States.
@@douro20 thanks a lot !!!!!
@@douro20 A friend who used to work for Philips in the late 80s/early 90s and collects all sorts of vintage equipments told me the old saying "Lass die Hände von Nordmende!" (literally "Keep your hands off of Nordmende" but more like "steer clear of their products!"). I guess there were jokes like that about many manufacturers back then, like "Hat's geraucht und gestunken, war's wohl Telefunken!" (If it smoked and smelled it was probably Telefunken).
looking forward to part 2 David, :-)
Hi Paul, me too 😉😀
Like your approach. It is very methodological with attention to every detail. Thank you. I have a few German and Russian tubes radios and German one 90% capacitors are good and in Russian 90% of capacitors were bad. And Russian tubes are very good..
Thank you George 😀
I thought Shango066 was working on the same thing. It was a Nordmende Caruso. Anyway you don't get the mumble rap stations and right wing talk?
@@Art7220 😄
Enjoyed the video, those radios usually sound really good. nice work regards Mike (UK)
Hi Mike in the UK, Yes they sound very good, this one is a little basic but it should perform well I hope. Fingers crossed for Boris's return to good health 🤞
David Tipton thanks David, yes hope he recovers soon he did a dam good job over here
fab been waiting new video good luck with that radio
Hi Ian, I'm gunna need it 👍😀
Whilst I do like the NordMende radio sets, especially the transistor portables et most of the earlier 'German' valve sets have some (Grundig was NO exception later on either.) real issues for wear and tear that can be seriously problematic to fix. 👀 The push button selector system is one example. The slider pins and contacts can wear to a point you have to strip out the entire unit and laboriously attempt to salvage it et 👀Getting at some parts, means stripping out and down (my partners fav occupation) 😁 Not forgetting of course, as per the Siemens radio gram that I am currently working on (1948) that has that SELENIUM rectifier, which I seldom have found other radios of the same era. where they have not failed. 👀 The FM or VHF system can be testing on the patience (if not the soul ). Seem to slip out of alignment AND the two valve system, EF41s re VHF have posed problems. We have to remember that the Germans et were very much in the early days of UHF / VHF (A lot of their communication field devices worked on UHF)👀 The power transformer was also destroyed probably by that selenium rectifier failing. 😒They also liked using the radio system et built in given sections. 👀Alright if you bear that in mind when working on them. Most of the circuit diagrams (my Siemens in particular) has set colour coding abbrev letters, values AND voltages (20,000 ohms per volt). I had the original power transformer rewound. Used new bridge rectifier / ballast resistor AND 4 main power electrolytics et Overall on the Siemens the voltages run to over 300v. 👀It also has five speakers. 2 mid, 1 low and two voltage powered tweeters. 2 LS output transformers. 3x15ohm, plus the tweeters. Cross over networks. The entire audio output stage is quite complex. 👀 9 valves. Power via the transformer gives 2 x 6.3 volt (2Amp) 240v (UK) primary with 300v x 2 secondaries (750mA). A second power transformer for the turntable unit et 55v x 2.👀 Internals now working and alignment OK. Switching trouble free. (finally 😒). Overall whilst I have THREE sets in my collection that are German sets I'm NOT crazy enough to desire adding any more thankyou! 😁NEWBIES! Many of the so called SYLVANIA valves are RUSSIAN made and even listed as direct equivalents they quite often are NOT! The QUALITY of the valves also is questionable. If you can source brand name western valves ? Do so. Ex military types can also be OK for replacements. I HAVE on occasion swapped out the valve bases and changed valve types/equivalents et The UKs Valve museum website and or the Radio museum website are superb for valve information, radio / electrical devices et NOT forgetting Ray's 'Radio workshop' (UK) website for a lot of really good info on radio and more. 👀 Thanks for the vid David. 👍 It is always good for others to appreciate someone's hard work, patience and achievements.
Hi Arthur, thank you for your in depth assessment of German and European radios in general. Thanks for watching Arthur 🙂
I cretainly understand modifyng the EM34 circuiit for a cheaper Magic Eye tube. Unless you are a purest the $98 plus shipping cost is a deal breaker for restoration. I like how you made the replacement "cap with 10mohm resistor" for noise quieting... genius. I am now hunting for one of these looks exciting.
I was happy to use the soviet eye, it's not a classic radio and the eye looks original when the radio is working. They are a nice radio and look good in a collection. Thanks Michael 🙂
I like that it has FM but I would have been a little upset that it was not complete, I like the look of having the eye in the Radio, I wonder if there is a way of adding one to a radio that was not manufactured with one,, hmm maybe my next project, lol,, looking forward to part 2, thank you for the video David 👌
Hi Melissa, the FM sure is handy but I like to support AM if I can, I might be the only one! It was missing a few bits but that's ok, I had replacements anyway and it would be pretty boring for me if all the bits were there 🙄 If the radio has AGV and enough voltage available it will probably support magic eye, you have to secure a ME valve first though, cheers and thanks Melissa 😀
I am staying tuned...
That's the spirit Neil 😄
I've restored many German sets in the past. You did well to restore the PSU cap (I wish I had a lathe)
I usually either reform that cap or replace with a modern 50+50uF. I'm not a big fan of those small electrolytics you have fitted, as I've had bad experiences with them.
Any ERO cap should be replaced on sight. Some of the silver coloured caps are not that bad and hold out quite well.
Selenium rectifiers have got to go and replaced with a silicon bridge + ballast.
EM34 tubes are ridiculously expensive so I use a Russian 6E5C tube re wired accordingly.
Good luck.
Hi watchyMCFCwatchy, interesting comment about the caps, I haven't had any trouble with them but I've only been doing this for a short time. All the caps have now been replaced except the silver ones you mention. See part 2 re: selenium rectifier. I used a 6E5S in place of the EM34 too 🙂
HA! I did it again, thumbs up and I haven’t even watched the video!!!! Thanks so much for the video in these times, All I need to know is what type of scotch do you like and hopefully that you enjoy Scotch.
Hi Geoff, There's so many to choose from, Annie Lennox, Billy Connolly... oh... right... Glenfiddich of course 🥃😀
G'day David! I'm glad to see you took mine or someone elses advice when it comes to old electro's and their possible content of PCB's! the stuff isnt friendly so good to see you took it seroiusly! great entertainment as always. I myself would like to try and fix one grundig or the like German valve radio one day
Hi BOE, yes I always heed safety advice, thanks 👍 If you have the opportunity to do a German radio I suggest you run... run and never look back 😄👍
Hi David; you have made a error with the capacitor with the 3 connections. The third connection is not a shield but it is a build in 10 Meg resistor. You realy have to change it.
Look at the capacitor, it says so on the label ! ...You can also see it in the schematic.
I know some capacitors with 3 legs are indeed a shield ( like the ero )…. not this one.
Greetings....Dirk from Belgium.
Thank you Dirk, I have realised my mistake and added a complete 'Thanks Dirk' to the next video. I had no idea of what you were saying and had to fish the old cap from the bin and dissect it, it had a resistor in there! I guess that's the difference between experience and me. Thank you for pointing that out Dirk, cheers 👍😀
Excellent video Mr Tipton, thanks for uploading!! I am currently restoring EXACTLY the same Nordmende Elektra and have filmed it to upload on YT in a week or so. This is such an amazing coincidence! Imagine 2 people restoring a 1958 radio, same make and type in the same month of 2020. I was gobsmacked when I saw your video just now :-)
Just some quick info if i may: @ 15:40 you fell for the same thing as i did initially, that cap is not shielded, its a 0,01 cap plus 10 meg resistor combo, visible on the schematic as R57 and C97 in that square dotted outline, I just soldered a resistor between pin 8 of the EABC80 and chassis, its the grid pullup for the triode section. I didnt see you replace the electrolytic C87 , you point at it @15:27. This one is FM ratio cap, veery important to replace, even if the old one tests good it is not.
The ECC85 often goes duff and also the ECH81. Although the ECH may work fine as the converter on AM, it may perform weak on FM where it doubles up as the 1st IF amp. I always swap those 2 valves against known good ones from another radio before attempting to alter the tuning of any coils, especially those in the FM tuner, the factory settings are almost always the best.
For the magic eye I went a totally different route using a cheap 6AL7GT with a small tweak, will dedicate a separate video for that.
The labeled terminal strip on the rear of the chassis is a row of test terminals Nordmende used to access all relevant test points in the schematic without removing the chassis, quite a useful aid when repairing...
Cheers from Germany, Ralph
Hi Ralph, that is quite a coincidence. The cap and resistor was shielded, I just missed that it had a resistor in it as well as the capacitor. I didn't replace that C87 cap, it was the only one I didn't do, as you say, it tested perfectly. I will change it when I fit the new grill cloth, thanks.
I didn't have any spare tubes to swap in for comparison, I was lucky to have the two missing tubes. The AM and FM coils had been fiddled with at a previous time so I needed to align them.
I looked at the 6AL7GT but the exchange rate and postage makes them too expensive here. I assume it works OK.
Good luck with your project 👍
@@DavidTipton101 Hello David. Great video and very helpful as I am working on the same model. Regarding that shielded Cap, C97. Mine did not have that 10M resistor, R57, and I assume yours didn't either. Did you add it like Mr. Roehre recommends? I'm curious partly because I was puzzled by it and also because I am getting 200 VDC at pin 9 of the EABC80 and can't figure out why since caps have been changed and resistors checked.
David: I just saw that you addressed this is a follow up video. You saved me a lot of time--I would have missed that! Cheers
Hi David,
Around 6:00 That electrolyte looks okay to me: tolerance on this type of capacitor is generally -20 +50%
Now I will watch the rest of the video 😊
Ah, too late I see. Maybe for the next German radio. 😎
..
No German voice coming out of the speaker, how odd 🤓
Looking forward to the next episode. Cheers 👍
Hi Plons0Nard , ha-ha, yeah should have had some German content in there. I have come to think that if a capacitor is reading high it is probably faulty. If the manufacturer can't make a cap within a few percentile of the advertised value it shouldn't be in there anyway, I think the best option is to change them if in doubt 👍🙂
you've got a well equipped workshop!
Hi Ralph, you tend to pick up stuff over 50 odd years, thanks 👍😄
His grandfather only used it on Sunday. Stay well down there. As Red Green would say, "Remember, I'm pulling for you; we're all in this together. "
Wayne Shirey Speaking of Red Green, when Dave said “this is only temporary,” I was thinking Red would have said, “This is only temporary - unless it works.”
@@bobk3372 😁
I have no idea who Red Green is but I like his style 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 A Canadian comedian. His old shows are on UA-cam.
You might want to put a 47k resistor in line with the target to prevent it from wearing out so fast. It gets a bit dim, of course, but that's barely noticeable.
Hi schorse1000, thanks for the tip 👍😀
I have that same model in my Collection so nice one more get a new life 🇩🇰👍
Hi Tommy, It's a fascinating radio and it's had a full life, I hope I can make it shine again 👍😀
@@DavidTipton101 i am sure you can .keep the good woork ther are to many amateur on UA-cam
HI DAVE! #7 this week! Love watching your vids. One thing that bothers me about radios from "down under" is that the dial is marked with the radio stations not the frequency you are tuning in. Stations can come and go but the frequency will always be the same. Otherwise, great video again :D
Hello how do you see our work tell us how thank you very much thank you Hope you the best
European and UK radios had stations marked on the dial too.
Hi Wayne, Yes that's very true. Stations move frequency and the frequency spacing changed making a mockery of the staton call signs. Having said that, I grew up in Melbourne and the stations are pretty much where they were in the 60s 🙂
I had one of those radios,It now lives in my parts bin!! LOL!
That's a pity Robert 😀
Good Gravy. What a mess you have to begin with. I am sure that after much work, it will be like new though. :D
Ha-ha, I haven't heard 'Good Gravy' for a while 😄 I'm working my way through it TGG but there is so much I don't know about this type of radio, hopefully I will get there in the end 🤞🙂
Just forgot to mention, that shielded cap you did replace has a resistor of 10meg to ground inside the shielding.
Thanks schorse1000, I realise that in part 2 and fix it. I know for next time though 👍😀
@@DavidTipton101 Oh, my bad. I just watched the first part...
@@schorse1000 Haha... it was my bad, luckily someone pick up my mistake as well as you, cheers 👍🙂
I love the magic eye models
First time with a magic eye, they are fun though, Thanks Pete 😀
Waiting for part two.
I'm peddling as fast as I can 😄
Nice radio, love the Nord Mendes, but you managed to a waste a perfectly good crossword puzzle, mate. These days they're practically legal tender ;). I enjoyed the magic eye swap-out. I plan to do the same with a 1950s Japanese radio that didn't come with one, but I found a nearly identical schematic that does show one. So, my radio will get an upgrade.
Yeah, sorry about the crossword SY, I don't know what I was thinking 🤦♂️ If you plan to use the same eye as I did there is a 6E5 'S' version which uses less grid voltage for full closed 🙂
Interesting project. I never found magic eyes of any practical use for tuning in a receiver, where my ears are better, but they are useful for recording levels on tape recorders and also on capacitor testers. BTW: The German word Mende is pronounced like 'mender' (with a soft r).
Hi James, Signal strength meters have been around for years before the magic eye. I agree, I just tune in the station. I would stop short of saying it was gimmick but I bet radios with 'Magic Eye' were easier to sell 😀 Ha-ha, I knew I would be picked up for my pronunciation of Nordmende, I will stick the the aussie pronunciation for now, we can't even pronounce Stralya, cheers 😄
@@DavidTipton101 That must be the QLD pronunciation as I haven't heard it called that anywhere else in Oz. 😛
@@James_Bowie It might be my pronunciation I think. I looked up some Aussie TV ads and they did pronounce it with a soft 'r', the American ads pronounce it as I did. I have never heard anyone pronounce it here with the soft 'r' in person. I looked at other videos and people pronounce it both ways. Bit like Miele appliances, it was always pronounced with an hard E years ago now it must be pronounced with the soft R or you get a frown from the salesman .
Dear David Tipton, PC30 Sat 4 April 2020.
I am leaving a COMMENT as I testing due to UA-cams "fiddling" with their System. PC30
Cheerio
Juan.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Roger that Juan 👍
The German technology is always impressive. I have always liked the classy, white plastic and the advanced features. Did we have FM when this was new? I don't think so. Total contrast to the last video. Cheers
Hi Pauline, the Europeans built impressive radios alright. I think we got FM in the 70s and yes, I'm out of my depth here 😀
@@DavidTipton101 Austria had the first commercial FM broadcast in 1955 and I think Germany was a several years ahead, possibly even in the late 40s. AM had become a niche by the 1970s I think. By now it's fairly quiet on AM, only a few stations left, I think one in France and some in Russia and even further east. I suppose FM was originally most popular in densely populated areas.
@@Ragnar8504 It's a pity AM is dying off over there, we still have a reasonable selection here
@@DavidTipton101 As I said, it had become a niche by the 70s or 80s, so eventually shutting it down was logical from an economic point of view. Still sad to see though! I was there when the Bisamberg station tower was demolished in 2010, quite an experience (they used explosives to take down the steel tower)! That was the last AM transmitter in Austria.
@@Ragnar8504 Oh no 😪
German paper capacitors sometimes look different, those white ones are surely fine? I bought a small HV insulation tester from China a few years ago that can test up to 1000V and it runs off one 9V battery. If I am not sure about the capacitor (perhaps it is a type that I never saw before), it will tell you instantly if it is good or bad (or if it is about to fail).
For the FM, test all the valves first (especially the ECC85 and EABC80, if the set has one). There could also be a dried up 5uF stabilising capacitor in the ratio detector circuit that sometimes causes distortion. And check if the IF cores are still untouched, as there might have been someone in before with the screwdriver there. FM alignment is a bit tricky, the best way is to use a sweep generator (wobbulator) and a scope.
Hi michvod, I have replaced the wax caps and the white ones now as well, I thought the white ones tested ok but I tested them again and they were suspect so out they went. I have a Chinese tester, might be the same as yours. I will check the caps in the ratio detector section but I think I got them all, thanks for the heads up. The IFcans have definitely been 'touched', I will sort that in the next video. I don't have a sweep generator so I will do it as the service sheets suggest. It is my first FM alignment, wish me luck 👍😀
Nice to see a Magic Eye again ! Looking forward to part 2.
I've been working through your vids this week here in shutdown UK - you certainly are good at fixing the appearance of these radios, as well as the electronics. I grew up with valves in the late 60s/70s, and although the electronics hold no fears for me, case repairs do :o) When you print onto wet transfer sheets, is your printer an inkjet or a laser ?
I enjoyed watching you making new acrylic windows for dials in two vids by different methods.
Now you've prompted me to go and look for a small isolation transformer like your Aussie one - I've never owned one and I think I should. I do have a dim bulb tester though, built to test a friend's Pye 15A. It does't look as good as your latest dim bulb tester version though - what a great front panel !
Is the Pye 19A (I think) on your shelving due for a repair, or is that already done ?
I had never seen an Aussie AM bc band dial before - with the states and two-letter idents all marked - new knowledge for me.
Request - when you repair a radio with SW, could you whizz the dial through that band just for those of us that like to hear that, as well as the AM bc band ? Ta !
Atb, Dave (GW4FIC)
Hi Dave, thank you. I use a laser printer, the transfer sheets are different for both types of printer. The isolation transformer is a good safety device for all repairs but essential for hot chassis sets. The Pye set has been done, it is an Australian model APM I think. It was in bad shape and I had to re-veneer it, I did it before UA-cam. It had an intermittent fault where it would work all day and the next day there was no sound, turn it off and on and it was ok again, it was a head scratcher. It turned out to be a bad connection in an IF transformer. Aussie dials pretty much all had that layout. I can't get much in the way of SW reception due to my location and limitations for a decent antenna. I can get some of the islands north of us and sometimes NZ stations. There is at least one SW Aussie station but they operate at a higher frequency than most radios I have. I only have two radios with that frequency range and one is the Pye set. I might dust it off one day 🙂 ATB
Do you have any videos on repairing the buttons. I have to press the buttons lightly to get them to stay down. If I press quick or too hard they pop back on. Referring the the band selection buttons.
Hi muxxor. I don't have anything specific on that but it sounds like the lock plate on the switch pack is slow to move to the latch position. The latch plate is a thin strip of metal that transverses the width of the switch pack. When you press a key the lightly sprung plate slips behind a slot on each key mechanism. Yours may have a broken or weak spring or the latch plate is gummed up making it slow to react when you press a key. When the 'Off" key is pressed it pushes the latch plate away to unlatch any latched keys. Check and clean the the latch plate and make sure it moves freely and the spring is still doing it's job. There may be another cause of course but that seems to be what you are experiencing Good Luck 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 Thank you for the reply, I take it apart and check all those things.
Hello Mr. Dave, I will appreciate your valious help, I got a Nordmende Elektra d12 German radio, after a full restore including a new diode full wave rectifier, the outlet voltage from the rectifier is 375 VCD and the transformer voltage in to the rectifier is 257 VCA; the radio schematics show a voltage maximum of 257/262 VCD, my question is how make a voltage drop from 375 VCD to 257 VCD?? It also the two light bulb terminals are shorted when one of the termimals is grounded, this is detected with a bulb dim protecction. I know ohms law, but please give your opinnion; thanks a lot.
Hi Rodolfo, is the radio working? Do you have the magic eye fitted and working? If so, there is something wrong either with your measurements or maybe the primary transformer tapping is set to the wrong voltage. Test the filament voltage is 6.3volts AC. The voltage rise from replacing the rectifier should be in the order of 20 to 30 Volts. 120 Volts is way too much. German radios operate on 220 Volts usually if not an export model, your local voltage may be higher than that 🙂
Excellent job so far. Think the Russian magic eye 6E5C isn't getting enough voltage. Maybe the resistor drifted or your not getting 220V.
There are some switch contacts that may need cleaning. May need to replace capacitor C80 in circuit too. Seen a video of one in action on UA-cam.
It should be very bright!
Hi HTM, thank you. Yes, I agree the eye is underpowered I think it requires 250V but the supply is 210V or 225V depending on the wave selection, the supply voltages are correct per the schematic. The eye is dimmer than it should be but quite bright enough when in the cabinet. I replaced all the white caps including C80 and the replacement is mentioned in part 2. The few I measured originally came up spot on so I left the rest but a check later on revealed they were all out of tolerance so out they went 🙂
Nice radio David, hope you solved the magic eye. Looks like the anode voltage is low or maybe something odd like the cathode high, maybe a resistor. Thoroughly messed with but not a project killer thankfully.
The anode voltage is a little low (230V not 250V) but boosting it made no difference, the cathode is at ground potential. When the eye is fitted in the radio it looks ok, not great but ok.
Not a good idea to have the capacitor residue dripping on the lathe ways.
If you can somehow find 12v for the filament, a type 1629 eye tube (war surplus) might also work. That Ruskie valve seems to have low emission.
The lathe has survived no worries thanks scharkalvin. Good info re the 1629, I found an article for making an adaptor for converting from 6E5, unfortunately there are none available locally so I would have to import them from the US or Europe and would cost over $100 🤦♂️🙄
A German radio & a Russian replacement eye tube... No wonder they didn’t match up right away lol xD
Ahh, good point MrPhantomFury, I hadn't thought of that 😄
David Tipton haha :D
Excellent video. The radio was a bit incomplete when you got it. What were the missing valves ? ( ECC83 and ECH81 ) they are very common European valves. Great job on that filter cap replacement.
Thanks RODALCO2007. The missing valves were ECH81 and EF89. I had one that had been cataloged and the other I found at the bottom of a very large box of valves. I doubt I have any of the other valves 👍😀