Thanks for the video. I just did this on my wifes car. Her's had been failing to work intermittently for awhile and she had even broken off the red cable on the original. I got it done in about 10 mins thanks to you showing what worked (and didn't). She reached towards the front from where the red cable used to be and I was able to hand her the new cable so all is good. Who knows how long this latch will last but at $25 and about 10 minutes to swap, I'll take that risk.
I just want to say a huge thanks for your video. I needed to remove the actuator from my B8 RS4 avant, and your video was very helpful (especially the pulling of the unit towards the back of the car to remove it). Was able to complete this in under 2 mins after watching this.
Thank you for sharing this video. Regarding my 2013 Audi S4 B8.5, once the T-20 torx screw that connects the fuel door actuator to the fuel door assembly had been removed, the task of pulling the assembly to the left and towards me was a bit of a challenge. Having a set of sturdy plastic pry tools, especially one similar to cat's paw pry bar with handle, allowed me better access to the space between the back of the left of the assembly without touching the rubber lining of the fuel tank opening or damaging the plastic assembly. Once the pry tool was pulled to pop out the assembly from behind the left side, the next steps were to follow the reverse order of your work. Disconnecting/Reconnecting the electrical clip, reusing the red plastic manual pull release, reinstalling the new actuator using its top/bottom sliver clips, then pushing in the right side first of the fuel door assembly, the actuator remained in place while everything snapped back into its original spot. Watching your trial and errors helped me to avoid a few errors and saved me an easy $50 minimum at an Audi indie shop. Kudos!
Thanks for sharing the video man. I managed to replace new actuator. But, not able put down emergency cable. It stuck in the middle of the trunk. It was challenging to open the assembly though.
Not joking, but was very easy to remove with crowbar from the middle (using fuel tank hole as support) with moderate force. Popped right off, no screwdriver marks or any bending. These screwdriver holes did not help me, only those scratches would have looked bad later. Ordered new part with code "16SKV405" ~18eur from local dealer. Works great again. Audi A4 2012.
Pulling towards the back didn’t work for me. It didn’t even budge. But this method, but with a screwdriver instead to use as a lever, worked great for me.
Hey Buddy thx for this Video! I did it same way and it worked perfect! T-20 Screw out and then slightly pull and taddaaaa... Awesome! And fixed in under 5min 👊🏻😎
For some reason the frame that holds the door/ what goes on top of the actuator will not come out but everything I have is exactly the same. Even the replacement door frame/ actuator
Lucky you that u can just pulled it out. It must have been removed before. People puncture hole to get a flat screwdriver to unclip them. Wish u did show close up of the clip so that we know how deep and what angle to unclip. Or maybe it is easier to remove the wheel, fender lining, and reach in from under.
Nothing. In an emergency you can pull the interior trunk panels to gain access to the cable. The cable wasn't attached by the factory, so I didn't bother with it.
Loved the video, when you struggled with putting the new actuator back I kept saying “PUT THE ACTUATOR FIRST” like I was watching you do it in real life😂😂😂 Love how you chose to include your learning experience. Any further issues with the actual fuel door after replacement?
Read the comments…Im surprised he didnt lose the camera in the gas tank. Stop. Just. Stop. You could have broken every simple part you were disassembling/reassembling Yaaay. U won a trip to Hawaii. Yaaaaay. Yaaaay
I have the same problem and I have been putting off replacing it for over a year. But now I see it's an easy repair. Thanks for the video.
Great video. It’s good that you showed the issues you ran into. It’s better to see the mistakes before I attempt to do my own. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my wifes car. Her's had been failing to work intermittently for awhile and she had even broken off the red cable on the original. I got it done in about 10 mins thanks to you showing what worked (and didn't). She reached towards the front from where the red cable used to be and I was able to hand her the new cable so all is good. Who knows how long this latch will last but at $25 and about 10 minutes to swap, I'll take that risk.
Our cheapo part is still going strong!
I just want to say a huge thanks for your video. I needed to remove the actuator from my B8 RS4 avant, and your video was very helpful (especially the pulling of the unit towards the back of the car to remove it). Was able to complete this in under 2 mins after watching this.
Thanks! Sure beats getting charged an hour or so from Audi
Thank you for sharing this video. Regarding my 2013 Audi S4 B8.5, once the T-20 torx screw that connects the fuel door actuator to the fuel door assembly had been removed, the task of pulling the assembly to the left and towards me was a bit of a challenge. Having a set of sturdy plastic pry tools, especially one similar to cat's paw pry bar with handle, allowed me better access to the space between the back of the left of the assembly without touching the rubber lining of the fuel tank opening or damaging the plastic assembly. Once the pry tool was pulled to pop out the assembly from behind the left side, the next steps were to follow the reverse order of your work. Disconnecting/Reconnecting the electrical clip, reusing the red plastic manual pull release, reinstalling the new actuator using its top/bottom sliver clips, then pushing in the right side first of the fuel door assembly, the actuator remained in place while everything snapped back into its original spot. Watching your trial and errors helped me to avoid a few errors and saved me an easy $50 minimum at an Audi indie shop. Kudos!
My job for next weekend loved all your fails made me giggle
Thanks for sharing the video man. I managed to replace new actuator. But, not able put down emergency cable. It stuck in the middle of the trunk. It was challenging to open the assembly though.
This was very helpful, thanks. I had this same exact problem and now got it fixed
Great video
I'm getting ready to replace mine tomorrow 🙌
Not joking, but was very easy to remove with crowbar from the middle (using fuel tank hole as support) with moderate force.
Popped right off, no screwdriver marks or any bending.
These screwdriver holes did not help me, only those scratches would have looked bad later.
Ordered new part with code "16SKV405" ~18eur from local dealer. Works great again.
Audi A4 2012.
Pulling towards the back didn’t work for me. It didn’t even budge. But this method, but with a screwdriver instead to use as a lever, worked great for me.
Me too! Thanks for taking the time to provide this tip!
Worked on my A4 B8 using the fuel filler opening as leverage point for crowbar as suggested in the comments. Thank you
This video is very helpfull,thank you very much ! i changed my actuator in exactly 5 minutes ! same method as you on audi a5 sportback 2013
Hey Buddy thx for this Video!
I did it same way and it worked perfect!
T-20 Screw out and then slightly pull and taddaaaa... Awesome! And fixed in under 5min 👊🏻😎
Bravo! Well done, sir!
For some reason the frame that holds the door/ what goes on top of the actuator will not come out but everything I have is exactly the same. Even the replacement door frame/ actuator
I used a laminate floor puller to get the lip behind and gave it even pressure it comes right off.
Would this work for the b9 generation??
Same issue with my S6. Hope my assembly is similar.
This is the perfect example of what you dont have to do to make the job done perfect 😂
Lucky you that u can just pulled it out. It must have been removed before. People puncture hole to get a flat screwdriver to unclip them. Wish u did show close up of the clip so that we know how deep and what angle to unclip. Or maybe it is easier to remove the wheel, fender lining, and reach in from under.
Thanks for this video. I need to replace mine now.
Where did you end up attaching the red cable to? I’m trying to figure out where it goes.
Nothing. In an emergency you can pull the interior trunk panels to gain access to the cable. The cable wasn't attached by the factory, so I didn't bother with it.
Loved the video, when you struggled with putting the new actuator back I kept saying “PUT THE ACTUATOR FIRST” like I was watching you do it in real life😂😂😂
Love how you chose to include your learning experience. Any further issues with the actual fuel door after replacement?
It's been working perfectly so far!
Thanks a lot
Wow I wanted to punch you at 1 point when you continuously did it weirdly wrong, got there in the end though 😅
Read the comments…Im surprised he didnt lose the camera in the gas tank.
Stop. Just. Stop. You could have broken every simple part you were disassembling/reassembling
Yaaay. U won a trip to Hawaii. Yaaaaay. Yaaaay
Hahaha I'm surprised
People if u don't know don't do experiments with expensive cars
😁😂🤣😅
For 10 bucks worth the experiment