After stripping the threads for the up/down adjustment of the scoring blade, I removed the assembly from the machine, took it apart, and replaced the damaged part.
Thank you so much. I was looking for this information everywhere. I was very surprised to find such a detailed video what explained me everything. Good job.
Thanks for making all these videos on this type of machine. I recently purchased a used CU300 that was made in the 90's. Watching these gave me a firm grip on accessory parts that I need to purchase and the way the machine operates. Right now I have 5 individual machines: tablesaw, jointer, planer, shaper and mortiser. This machine reduces my shop footprint(one car port of a garage) although I will keep my 20 inch planer. 12 inches is too small for me. Your videos are fastidious and excellent.
Peter, I am pleased you like the "scoring" feature. I saw a video yesterday, where the owner said, "I have NO use for the scoring blade in my new sliding saw; and if it was an option I would NOT have bought it. For I will never use it!" To each his own. I personally believe that it is one of THE most needed and awesome inventions in the history of sawing wood. I really mean that. If a person doubts this, try to cut melamine with out a scoring blade, and it will tear out the bottom of the stock on BOTH sides of the cut using MOST blades. And the tear out is very bad. This happens worse, with plywood,, laminated wood, and thin verniers on wood, etc. I do not have a scoring blade and that is not an option on Powermatic table saws that I can afford. But there is a "FREE" scoring feature on ALL saws. But if great care is not taken; it can be VERY dangerous. Just look at the back side of plywood when you have it cut at Home Depot or Lowe's, etc! But when done properly, it is awesome. AND.................there is NO need ever to shim or adjust it side ways; even when changing blades with different widths. The first time I saw it done, I flipped out. Again, it MUST be done following strict safety procedures; or do NOT do it. For whatever it's worth. Keep up the good work Peter.
Thank you for taking the time to make this information available. Your videos are valuable and informative. You may have saved me hours (or days). It has been frustrating at times to get info on these machines. I have the same combo. I also have a MM16. In case you ever need to change your belts, please record the procedure. I would like to see a video of someone changing belts on the various motors.
Larry, I'm glad to hear that you find the videos useful. In all the years I've owned my CU300, the only belt I've ever had to change is the one that drives the scoring blade. Since everything happens deep inside the cabinet, I don't think there's any way I could capture very much of the process in a video. I'm hoping my luck holds with the rest of the belts, especially the one that drives the jointer/planer. If that one goes, I'll try to film something. --Peter
Good evening, please help me with the minimax CU 410C. I dismantled the belt from the incisor and three guide rollers because they were rusty. Now, after I reassembled them, when I turn them by hand, the belt falls all the time, I don't know what could be the cause.
Andrew, I'll admit that the exact hight of the scoring blade is not something I pay much attention to, and I've never noticed it making any difference. There's a comment on my table saw video saying that I have the scoring blade set too high, and I think that's likely true. Probably, the higher the scoring blade, the more likely it is to produce some tear-out of its own. So, in an ideal world, you would want just enough to get the job done, but no more than that. I'm guessing that would be somewhere around 1/32".
Hmm you need to make a machinist friend who needs a wooden tool chest and would sort your hardware issues cause when you said I am struggling with a bolt.... All I thought was machinist.. Keith Fenner or Rucker , Tom from Oxtools, ABomb or This old Tony :) It needs RE engineering ;)
Thanks for your interesting videos which I discovered only recently. I have a broadly similar SASCOM "Titan" brand machine which has served me well for many years. I had a number of comments and queries arising from your various earlier videos but didn't post these as I was unsure of a reply. Do you monitor comments for these older videos? Incidentally, I long ago removed my scoring unit so as to allow me to fit a 12" saw blade but I am going to dig this out and examine it in the light of your problem. pat dee referred to an alternative to the scoring saw but didn't give any detail; I think he may have had in mind the idea of a close-fitting throat plate.
I don't monitor the comments on the videos, but UA-cam will usually send me an email whenever someone adds a new comment, and if the comments warrants a reply, I'll usually create one. The volume is pretty low, so it's not hard to keep up with. --Peter
Thank you. One small general comment is that I was surprised to see you using the basic L-shaped Allen wrenches when much better types are available. No reply is, of course, needed!
Thank you so much. I was looking for this information everywhere. I was very surprised to find such a detailed video what explained me everything. Good job.
Thanks for making all these videos on this type of machine. I recently purchased a used CU300 that was made in the 90's. Watching these gave me a firm grip on accessory parts that I need to purchase and the way the machine operates. Right now I have 5 individual machines: tablesaw, jointer, planer, shaper and mortiser. This machine reduces my shop footprint(one car port of a garage) although I will keep my 20 inch planer. 12 inches is too small for me. Your videos are fastidious and excellent.
Peter,
I am pleased you like the "scoring" feature.
I saw a video yesterday, where the owner said, "I have NO use for the scoring blade in my new sliding saw; and if it was an option I would NOT have bought it. For I will never use it!"
To each his own.
I personally believe that it is one of THE most needed and awesome inventions in the history of sawing wood. I really mean that.
If a person doubts this, try to cut melamine with out a scoring blade, and it will tear out the bottom of the stock on BOTH sides of the cut using MOST blades. And the tear out is very bad. This happens worse, with plywood,, laminated wood, and thin verniers on wood, etc.
I do not have a scoring blade and that is not an option on Powermatic table saws that I can afford. But there is a "FREE" scoring feature on ALL saws. But if great care is not taken; it can be VERY dangerous.
Just look at the back side of plywood when you have it cut at Home Depot or Lowe's, etc!
But when done properly, it is awesome. AND.................there is NO need ever to shim or adjust it side ways; even when changing blades with different widths. The first time I saw it done, I flipped out. Again, it MUST be done following strict safety procedures; or do NOT do it.
For whatever it's worth.
Keep up the good work Peter.
Thank you for taking the time to make this information available. Your videos are valuable and informative. You may have saved me hours (or days). It has been frustrating at times to get info on these machines. I have the same combo. I also have a MM16.
In case you ever need to change your belts, please record the procedure. I would like to see a video of someone changing belts on the various motors.
Larry, I'm glad to hear that you find the videos useful. In all the years I've owned my CU300, the only belt I've ever had to change is the one that drives the scoring blade. Since everything happens deep inside the cabinet, I don't think there's any way I could capture very much of the process in a video. I'm hoping my luck holds with the rest of the belts, especially the one that drives the jointer/planer. If that one goes, I'll try to film something. --Peter
Thank for this video! Very useful I do it followed your way
Great job! Please make more videos.
Good evening, please help me with the minimax CU 410C.
I dismantled the belt from the incisor and three guide rollers because they were rusty. Now, after I reassembled them, when I turn them by hand, the belt falls all the time, I don't know what could be the cause.
Comment changer le roulement de la scie circulaire de combiner. Minimax lab 300 plus.merci.
Good videos, can you tell me what is the correct height the scoring blade should be set at above the table?
Andrew, I'll admit that the exact hight of the scoring blade is not something I pay much attention to, and I've never noticed it making any difference. There's a comment on my table saw video saying that I have the scoring blade set too high, and I think that's likely true. Probably, the higher the scoring blade, the more likely it is to produce some tear-out of its own. So, in an ideal world, you would want just enough to get the job done, but no more than that. I'm guessing that would be somewhere around 1/32".
Hmm you need to make a machinist friend who needs a wooden tool chest and would sort your hardware issues cause when you said I am struggling with a bolt.... All I thought was machinist.. Keith Fenner or Rucker , Tom from Oxtools, ABomb or This old Tony :) It needs RE engineering ;)
Thanks for your interesting videos which I discovered only recently.
I have a broadly similar SASCOM "Titan" brand machine which has served me well for many years. I had a number of comments and queries arising from your various earlier videos but didn't post these as I was unsure of a reply. Do you monitor comments for these older videos?
Incidentally, I long ago removed my scoring unit so as to allow me to fit a 12" saw blade but I am going to dig this out and examine it in the light of your problem.
pat dee referred to an alternative to the scoring saw but didn't give any detail; I think he may have had in mind the idea of a close-fitting throat plate.
I don't monitor the comments on the videos, but UA-cam will usually send me an email whenever someone adds a new comment, and if the comments warrants a reply, I'll usually create one. The volume is pretty low, so it's not hard to keep up with. --Peter
Thank you. One small general comment is that I was surprised to see you using the basic L-shaped Allen wrenches when much better types are available. No reply is, of course, needed!
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