Be careful Thomas, you might actually be contributing to an earlier failure. The tube you've fitted which prevents the tensioner from coming into contact with the pressure plate is now applying considerable force to the U-shaped bracket that restricts plunger movement. The hole in the bracket becomes worn and elongates, as does the plunger shaft, allowing excessive movement of the tensioner. Many failures manifest themselves as bracket fatigue, where the half forward of the plunger hole snaps off, with instant and usually catastrophic results. A tube fitted in this manner might also be hammering away at the bracket too. Just my opinion. Like Phil, I've also recently purchased the James Compton solution. Of all the mods I've seen, his is the most elegant design so far, and unlike other designs that utilise plain blocks of aluminium, drilled round-head bolts and locknuts and locking fluid, the Compton design still allows movement of the tensioner blade without compromising the clutch pressure plate. It looks so good it is probably what Kawasaki would have come up with had they done the decent thing and recalled this potential killer. This nasty little piece of work found its way into 9 models over 16 years. That's a lot of bikes! Well done Kawasaki. NOT.
You make an excellent point. The angle of the push rod going into the U bracket allows the aluminum sleeve to catch on the side closer to the hinge where it should be considerably stronger. I'm not saying this is the best way to fix it, but it has worked for me for hundreds of starts. Cheers
@@attilapal8490 Strictly speaking it isn't 9 but rather 5, but that's what motorcyclespareparts.eu state for the part, which is 391701059. Anyway, the models affected are: GPZ1100 (ZX/ZZR engine) 1995/6 ZX11/ZZR1100 All years ZZR1200 All years ZRX1100 All years ZRX1200 and R/S All years www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/kawasaki-parts/391701059 Hope that helps.
The spring or tensionner is not the problem. Check in your bike's Service Manual, there is a procedure th check if your alternator chain is still in spec. If it gets too worn, there is too much slack and the tensionner starts jumping. Check. In. The. Manual.
I own , next to 3 other kawa's, a 1988 Tomcat. The tensioner has broken twice . The first time there was not a lot of damage, but the bottom bracket broke in half and a little piece was stuck under 3rd cylinder connecting rod. I installed a new tensioner and all was fine for the next 15 years. Last year it happened again, only now the piece which broke off first broke 3 bolts from the clutch . Had to buy a new inner hub for the clutch. Now i have put in the old tensioner, put the chain on tension, and welded the tensioner stuck. So it won't move anymore. Kawasaki used this tensioner design over 30years and never came up with a decent solution.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Have you had the marks on the clutch also? Because it sounds not the movement (tensioner hitting clutch) was the problem but only the lower bracket being too weak.
@@Max-yy3lz Yes i have the marks. the breaking is caused by the clutch pressure plate grabbing the guide of the tensioner. Then there is so much force on the lower bracket which then brakes. I prevent this by grinding the top of the guide in a 45degree angle. so it can't hit the clutch pressure plate.
I went to a show and when I went to leave it was as if the battery was dead,rocking it back and forward in gear got the tensioner free. KWIKS does a tensioner fix kit, they're great and easy to install, fit and forget.
This might be the cause of the horrible metal noise I heard from my engine. I thought I dropped something down the intake boots well cleaning the carbs. I'm still going to check that with a scope but my clutch lever is stuck solid. This is why I think the tensioner is my issue but mine sounded like it exploded. Anyways, thank you for all posting the solution. Hopefully my engine is not destroyed.
Get the " Quick's Tension Tamer", or the "Compton fix". This puts a lot pf pressure on the center of the bracket and could cause it to break right where it hits. It may prevent the problem for a while, but could end up exacerbating it. IMHO
I'd say you still have a problem, in a start up, the U-shaped part with the hole broke, and took out 2 of the clutch springs. The damage wasn't bad, but still, I need to change the clutch inner basket. Now im working on a steel part to put in instead. The part im aiming for costs 74$ and you can see on my channel why l prefer to save that amount. It happened on a bike that had been running 130.000 km, but the one with 138.000 km made it, without problems. It has now been changed to another motor with only 75.000 km. To avoid further costs, they will all be fixed 😁
Hi, can you give the sleeve dimensions in metric please? All that 5/19, 7/8,19/64 stuff is just so complicated: I think only mercans use that old stuff these days!
Sorry James compton is his name. Does the altenator tensioner alloy block, lovely bit of gear. View his website he has lots of zrx goodies and he actually does a video on step by step install of the tensioner block. My 2008 zrx1200 is very well care for, plenty of oil changed, never over revved or abuse and yet the tensioner let go and almost destroyed my motor. Beware zrx owners this is a must fix. Kawasaki should have done a recall.
I recently installed the James Compton piece on my 1100. Perfect fit, finish and function. The mod in this video would make Mickey Mouse proud Go with the Compton piece !
Interesting. I wonder why people wouldn't trim the tensioner so that it no longer reaches the clutch basket when spring is full closed and tensioner is full out towards basket? I posed this question elsewhere and someone suggested the tensioner is only supposed to move one way. Obvs its meant to go both hence the spring.
@@hawkmoon1704 I too think it was designed to only go tighter (hence the spring) but not the other way. However: fact is it does go towards the clutch at least occasionally. I also thought shortening the bow would be enough. I posted that question in a group on FB and people stated the U shaped bracket where the shaft goes through breaks. I don't know if it does right away or because of additional forces from the tensioner touching the turning clutch pressure plate.
@Banana Boat The problem with the tensioner is that the small spring that holds the lower plate breaks and in some cases the lower plate also breaks, cracking. You must remove the lower part of the tensioner or it will break.
@@69libero I was one of those rare occasions, my 2008 zrx1200 nearly distorted itself when the tensioner let go. Cost me over 3k to fix, new clutch baskets are over 1k genuine kawasaki part. If you own a zrx you must fix this issue. I bought a tensioner mod block from America...just cannot think of his name but he does alot of mods for the zrx1200, raced at peak mountain in the USA. Anyway it works great.
Be careful Thomas, you might actually be contributing to an earlier failure. The tube you've fitted which prevents the tensioner from coming into contact with the pressure plate is now applying considerable force to the U-shaped bracket that restricts plunger movement. The hole in the bracket becomes worn and elongates, as does the plunger shaft, allowing excessive movement of the tensioner. Many failures manifest themselves as bracket fatigue, where the half forward of the plunger hole snaps off, with instant and usually catastrophic results. A tube fitted in this manner might also be hammering away at the bracket too. Just my opinion.
Like Phil, I've also recently purchased the James Compton solution. Of all the mods I've seen, his is the most elegant design so far, and unlike other designs that utilise plain blocks of aluminium, drilled round-head bolts and locknuts and locking fluid, the Compton design still allows movement of the tensioner blade without compromising the clutch pressure plate. It looks so good it is probably what Kawasaki would have come up with had they done the decent thing and recalled this potential killer.
This nasty little piece of work found its way into 9 models over 16 years. That's a lot of bikes! Well done Kawasaki. NOT.
You make an excellent point. The angle of the push rod going into the U bracket allows the aluminum sleeve to catch on the side closer to the hinge where it should be considerably stronger. I'm not saying this is the best way to fix it, but it has worked for me for hundreds of starts. Cheers
Hi. please, what 9 models was it ??? thank you very much
@@attilapal8490 Strictly speaking it isn't 9 but rather 5, but that's what motorcyclespareparts.eu state for the part, which is 391701059.
Anyway, the models affected are:
GPZ1100 (ZX/ZZR engine) 1995/6
ZX11/ZZR1100 All years
ZZR1200 All years
ZRX1100 All years
ZRX1200 and R/S All years
www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/kawasaki-parts/391701059
Hope that helps.
@@bagpopuk thank you very much sir
Kawasaki didn't recall the fawlty tensioner, cos then they wouldn't sell any spareparts
The spring or tensionner is not the problem. Check in your bike's Service Manual, there is a procedure th check if your alternator chain is still in spec. If it gets too worn, there is too much slack and the tensionner starts jumping.
Check. In. The. Manual.
I own , next to 3 other kawa's, a 1988 Tomcat. The tensioner has broken twice . The first time there was not a lot of damage, but the bottom bracket broke in half and a little piece was stuck under 3rd cylinder connecting rod. I installed a new tensioner and all was fine for the next 15 years. Last year it happened again, only now the piece which broke off first broke 3 bolts from the clutch . Had to buy a new inner hub for the clutch. Now i have put in the old tensioner, put the chain on tension, and welded the tensioner stuck. So it won't move anymore. Kawasaki used this tensioner design over 30years and never came up with a decent solution.
Hopefully I'm still in good shape. I take the cover off every so often to inspect it. I'm at 34k miles now
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Have you had the marks on the clutch also? Because it sounds not the movement (tensioner hitting clutch) was the problem but only the lower bracket being too weak.
@@Max-yy3lz Yes i have the marks. the breaking is caused by the clutch pressure plate grabbing the guide of the tensioner. Then there is so much force on the lower bracket which then brakes. I prevent this by grinding the top of the guide in a 45degree angle. so it can't hit the clutch pressure plate.
@@Max-yy3lz the black plastic part hits the fingers of the clutch basket.
@@masterofdisaster7427 So you cut it and you welded it?
Awesome mod you’ve made there 😲👍
I went to a show and when I went to leave it was as if the battery was dead,rocking it back and forward in gear got the tensioner free. KWIKS does a tensioner fix kit, they're great and easy to install, fit and forget.
i was thinking of putting a thread on pinion and using 2 nuts but was wondering if there was room in the bracket for the nuts
This might be the cause of the horrible metal noise I heard from my engine. I thought I dropped something down the intake boots well cleaning the carbs. I'm still going to check that with a scope but my clutch lever is stuck solid. This is why I think the tensioner is my issue but mine sounded like it exploded. Anyways, thank you for all posting the solution. Hopefully my engine is not destroyed.
Yikes! Hopefully not but that doesn't sound good
Get the " Quick's Tension Tamer", or the "Compton fix". This puts a lot pf pressure on the center of the bracket and could cause it to break right where it hits. It may prevent the problem for a while, but could end up exacerbating it. IMHO
I'd say you still have a problem, in a start up, the U-shaped part with the hole broke, and took out 2 of the clutch springs. The damage wasn't bad, but still, I need to change the clutch inner basket. Now im working on a steel part to put in instead. The part im aiming for costs 74$ and you can see on my channel why l prefer to save that amount. It happened on a bike that had been running 130.000 km, but the one with 138.000 km made it, without problems. It has now been changed to another motor with only 75.000 km. To avoid further costs, they will all be fixed 😁
Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing. 🙂👍
Could you not just shave the shoe so it clears the pressure plate at full excursion?
I got lost when it got to the medieval imperial system lol. Good mod but I think I'd rather start mine with no clutch as you mentioned.
mine looks same but is there any harm? my bike is 20 years old, runs, starts fine
Yes there's a possibility that the tensioner arm can break off or the clutch basket and cause severe damage
Hi, can you give the sleeve dimensions in metric please? All that 5/19, 7/8,19/64 stuff is just so complicated: I think only mercans use that old stuff these days!
I'm hearing metal on metal grinding when I hit the starter on one of my zx11s. Looks like this is the problem.
Could be. Take off your oil fill cap and look at the clutch basket. You'll see a bunch of dents if it is
What is that in MM please as we don't use inch measurements here in UK cheers Chris
Sorry James compton is his name. Does the altenator tensioner alloy block, lovely bit of gear. View his website he has lots of zrx goodies and he actually does a video on step by step install of the tensioner block. My 2008 zrx1200 is very well care for, plenty of oil changed, never over revved or abuse and yet the tensioner let go and almost destroyed my motor. Beware zrx owners this is a must fix. Kawasaki should have done a recall.
Agreed, it should've been recalled
I recently installed the James Compton piece on my 1100. Perfect fit, finish and function. The mod in this video would make Mickey Mouse proud
Go with the Compton piece !
@@richardmerrifield8186 Why is every other solution than the two sold in the US religously denied?
Interesting. I wonder why people wouldn't trim the tensioner so that it no longer reaches the clutch basket when spring is full closed and tensioner is full out towards basket? I posed this question elsewhere and someone suggested the tensioner is only supposed to move one way. Obvs its meant to go both hence the spring.
@@hawkmoon1704 I too think it was designed to only go tighter (hence the spring) but not the other way. However: fact is it does go towards the clutch at least occasionally.
I also thought shortening the bow would be enough. I posted that question in a group on FB and people stated the U shaped bracket where the shaft goes through breaks. I don't know if it does right away or because of additional forces from the tensioner touching the turning clutch pressure plate.
This is the worst way to fix it.
@Banana Boat The problem with the tensioner is that the small spring that holds the lower plate breaks and in some cases the lower plate also breaks, cracking. You must remove the lower part of the tensioner or it will break.
@@69libero I was one of those rare occasions, my 2008 zrx1200 nearly distorted itself when the tensioner let go. Cost me over 3k to fix, new clutch baskets are over 1k genuine kawasaki part. If you own a zrx you must fix this issue. I bought a tensioner mod block from America...just cannot think of his name but he does alot of mods for the zrx1200, raced at peak mountain in the USA. Anyway it works great.
@@philhicks3390 pikes peak I think is what you’re referring to
Just buy a new spring from Kawa
And a new clutch drum, chain tensioner and springs...
Mouse fix !
Mouse fix has worked for 13,000 miles and counting.
@@thomassears4920 when it fails will do a lot of damage 😑