A great video. A wonderful refresher course. What could be better for a metal guy to watch one of your videos and sip my morning coffee simultaneously. I appreciate your details and teaching skills.
On the oil business: wood bandsaws have the rubber on the wheels. Oil will sometimes cause the belt to come off repeatedly if the saw has been converted. I noticed this when trying to use my wood bandsaw to butcher pork (which contains lard). The meat versions have a little ridge to keep the wheel on.
Lyle, Watching this video (and the others) reminded me of a Toolmaker at work telling me about friction cutting ferrous metals (including the high-temperature super-materials) with a bandsaw. He told me that the saw blade didn't even need teeth to make the cut and that it would glow it got so hot. He tried to demonstrate cutting like that, but the Shop's bandsaw wasn't fast enough. And all of the other Toolmaker's were threatening to kill him for making all of that noise. ;) Thanks for all of your videos -- my high school didn't have any trade classes, so I enjoy watching your videos to pick up some of what I haven't learned since back then.
I cam to this video to figure out how to convert a wood band saw i found for sale locally. And behold the boice crane saw is the exact saw i am looking at. This is just perfect. The guy is selling it without the motor and stand. So that is why i need some info.
Mr. Pete, While pastoring a church in Clinton, Illinois back in the 80s I became heavily involved in wood working and antique restoration. In need of a bandsaw for that endeavor I mentioned it to a couple of people. One was an old Illinois Central railroad worker from the steam days and said he had an old railroad bandsaw I could have, all I had to do was load it up and haul it away. I was rather excited as you could imagine. Upon arrival at his place he took me back through his metal and junk laden back yard to an old Model T garage. Upon opening the doors he said, “There it is” and before me was a band saw like I’d never seen. It was huge! The wheels were every bit of 24 inches in diameter and the top of the thing stuck up above the rafters. I have no idea of the brand but it was a work of art. The castings were very detailed and it sat on a heavy cast iron base. Well, my excitement about a free band saw for my wood working business plummeted. First it was way too big for my small garage shop and plus it was a metal cutting saw. It could have been converted but was impractical for my use at the time so I passed on it. I want to kick myself every time I think about it. But then, I have never had ANY shop where the thing would fit. Oh well. Dale
@@mrpete222 upon my wifes insistance, i sold my 1955 Chevy pickup ( it was paid for) so she could have a new trailer house. one of the biggest mistakes of my life.
Mr. Pete, Yes it was a huge bandsaw. It came out of the round table switching yard shop at Clinton. In the heyday of the railroads Clinton was a major hub for the Illinois Central and a few other smaller lines. Over 200 trains passed through Clinton daily, both freight and passenger trains. As a major hub a large shop was needed for maintenance and repair of engines and cars. There is still a railroad car repair and refurbishing company in business there. The old railroader said that bandsaw came out of the round table shop and it was used for all manner of heavy cutting on steam engine boiler and piping components as well as wheel carriages and even track occasionally. I went back there to that old shop a couple of times just out of curiosity. One on my church members was an I C Agent officer and took me there. Illinois Central still owns the property but it’s mostly abandoned. The shop was empty but the yard was filled with rusting parts from the age of steam locomotives. Interesting place. Dale
Another great video Lyle. I was amazed how the wood blade coped with aluminium. The course blade would help a great deal with clearing swarf. Like you say . Not sure how long the blade would last but very interesting non the less. Thanks
I Just got one of those Delta Milwaukee 14" bandsaws. It had the riser on it and this one was pretty old but in great condition (aside from the lime green paint which is gone now). But it didn't have the gear box .......... HOWEVER it came with the coolest Walker Turner MOTOR that has 2 gears housed in the shaft end of it which reduces the motor's RPM to 750 before it touches the first pulley. The gears inside were interesting in that it wasn't a worm type reducer. It had a small helical gear on the shaft of the motor about 2" diameter. and the mating gear which drives the pulley was 4" roughly. I just got finished rebuilding it so I haven't even bought a metal cutting blade yet. I noticed in your SFM videos you didn't talk much about TPI. I want to buy a few blades but don't know quite what I want yet. Probably first some kind of all purpose blade. I want a 1/4" blade and wouldn't mind a resawing blade too. I'm very happy with the saw. It cuts wood very well and the saw is solid. Will let you know when I make chips on some metals though. Any advice on blades is welcome.
This is going to be another great series. Metal cutting vertical band saws in my area are as scarse as Hen's teeth. Converting a wood cutting band saw is a define route I wood take. I have a 2hp 120vdc treadmill motor that would give me low end torque and variable speed. Or like Bryan Smith below I could use a spare VFD I have and a 3ph 1hp 220vac motor I have sitting in my shop. Looking forward to the series.
Another great video...keep 'em coming, Lyle...BTW, I would love to see you make a video showing the Dremel/diamond burr method of sharpening a "hook tooth" wood cutting bandsaw blade by hand...I have been doing it for years, but your skill at explaining things so they're understandable by those new to metal work, would really be valuable...You can sure save lots of money if you can sharpen your own blades and they can be sharpened so well that they cut far better than a new blade with "punched" teeth...I frequently cut 1" aluminum AND 1/4" brass on my old Rockwell, 14" woodcutting bandsaw..I don't worry about dulling the teeth either...I can sharpen one in 20 minutes!!
I cut a 2 x 4 piece of Fortal this week on a small 4x6 Grainger saw. I decided not to change blades but did speed it up a bit, and weight the arm. 40 minutes.... Having 2 at the ready makes good sense, IF you have the room. Thanks Professor!!
well you solve my problem. when I was working on my saw motor I put the belt on the wrong speed and was wondering why it wouldn't cut like it use to. now I know. thanks for the help
I put a three phase motor from e bay on my craftsman with a VFD to control the speed of the blade. I used a 1hp motor to replace the 1/3 hp single phase so the torque at low speed would be enough to prevent stalling. This gives me almost infinite speed control for different metals, wood, plastic and etc. (I try to not cut meat with it though if you know what I mean)
Good morning! I just came in from the shop and had counted the rpm with a stop watch before watching this video. Mine is turning 36 rpm at slowest speed which is about 132 feet per minute. Thank you. Metal cutting blade is on order.
@@mrpete222 Good afternoon, I have posted a video on my channel cutting some 1/4 cold rolled steel. Kind of slow but it did cut. 14 tooth 0.025" blade. Thank you.
Howdy Mr Pete, thanks for a great channel. It occurred to me that on the last band saw, you could use the centre guard securing stud to add an intermediate pulley by adding a stepped pulley with a couple of bearings machined in. The driven end shaft looked long enough to allow the pulley to be moved outwards and maintain alignment. I recently purchased a wood working band saw here in the UK with the intention of converting for steel so am interested to see what you do in the next video.
I have that same saw with an open bottom stand. It was built in 1950. It still has the bake a light wheels that aren’t cracked but the top wheel is warped and wobbles. I replaced the tired and it works but the blade will pop off when putting a lot of pressure cutting steel. I wasn’t able to remove the upper wheel could you possibly tell me how you got your upper wheel off? Mine is held on with a castle type nut that i removed me the wheel does not budge. I love how you replaced yours and want to do the same on mine, it’s an awesome machine and like you said not a fast process to change speeds but if you only have room for one saw this is the one to have! Thank you for any help you can give and also thank you for all your videos! Best shop teacher ever!!!
Thank you for watching. You are the first one I ever heard from that I had that saw. Sorry, I have no idea how I got that wheel off. Those 20 years ago
I one of the ancient Delta bandsaws one of the first types to be eqipped with ball bearings . it actually braggs about having ball bearings right on the logo badge.
In aluminium boatbuilding here in Australia it is common to use woodworking saws to cut aluminium. We do use aluminium here though and not aloominum like in the states though.
Well dang, but thanks for the instructions I always learn something for watching.. I’ve only had it for about a year and do love the thing. It’s the perfect size for knife making. Any idea where i could get the upper guides and the handle on the wheel for the tensioner? I also just got a Logan 825 lathe but it needs a lot of work so making one is probably a year or more off.
I don’t know what to say other that you have two speeds on your first saw, 105 & 1750 rpm, 1st good for steel, 2nd works good for aluminum and would work for wood although a higher speed might work better. Now the second saw appears you been using it all these years at half the ideal speed for steel so I assume you been cutting plastic. Nice to see you been able to use one of all those belts you’ve accumulated over the years and I can see you made a slight improvement from what the foreman did and put it at the correct speed for steel. Guess you won’t need it for wood or aluminum for a rush job because you got two speeds on the other one that will do. Ok, for the best speeds for certain materials I certainly learned that 105 fpm is ideal for steel but really not sure what your recommendation for the best speed for aluminum, stainless, or wood which is why I initially tuned in. Now it’s not that I didn’t enjoyed your commentary but just saying.
I have several treadmill motors and i plan to use one on a bandsaw...mikeman made youtube channel has great info on how to use and convert a DC motor for AC use
Lyle skip tooth blades are not strictly wood they have hardened teeth for non ferrous metal. Using a cutting wax when cutting non ferrous metals really helps. It comes in a stick type cardboard tube.
Wellsaw is still in business and you might be able to get a replacement pulley for your saw through them. My brother gave me a Wellsaw model 58B that is similar to yours and It had a broken pulley. I bought a new replacement from Wellsaw. It was pretty expensive but they had it. I think it cost about one arm and one leg but I don't remember exactly.
Mr Pete, how bout mounting a another pulley on that middle stud ( gear cover stud) i think some of the delta metal saws had that setup to reduce the speed...
@mrpete222 I have my dad's vintage Craftsman (King Seeley) bandsaw from the 50's and am wondering if this would work for making into a metal cutting saw? It's model 103.24300 and is the bench style, so making a change with pulley size is going to be a chore as it is so close to the table, but more importantly I notice that some of the parts are likely aluminum so does not seem to be very heavy duty. Can you advise me as to weather you think this machine might work for me or am I just going to destroy it due to possibly of it being too light duty? (Great video's) Thanks!
One thing I have learned from youtube content creators is- nothing is easy! AND its not just me ! LOL...i am making a bandsaw from plans from mathias wandel...anywho i cut my thumb pretty good on a unplugged saw trying to test the fit ...
Hi Mr Pete. Thanks for the video. I just finished converting my Delta 14” to DC today. I found a used Dayton 1725 rpm 1/2 hp DC motor with a 56c base and it dropped right in. I bought the same KBD SRC you used in the drill press conversion but installed a tach in the SRC box it gives me the RPM but I’ll have to convert that to surface feet per minute. Can you provide speeds for other materials too? Specifically: tool steel, stainless, hardwoods vs softwoods etc.
Hi Mr Pete, I just finished my Delta 14” Conversion to DC today. Found a used Dayton 1/2 hp 1725 rpm 56c base and it dropped right in. I bought the same KBD SRC you showed In your drill press DC conversion and can now easily change speeds. I also like having the lower speed to tune up the tracking on the wheels, bearings and guides when I swap blades. I mounted a rpm display in the KBD box for reference although I need to convert to SFPM. I’d be interested in knowing the other speeds for materials: stainless, tool steel, hardwoods vs softwoods etc. Thanks for video.
My 6" horizontal saw also works it the upright position with a small table attachment. You just lift the saw upright and it stays that way,then 2bolts to add the 6"square table to the frame and your ready for vertical use.
lotta good comments. have an old sears, so your methods will be of interest. so here I am interrupted 5 times. so that 5 tooth at higher fpm got chips out for aluminum.
There's a 9" Ryobi bandsaw for sale. An older one. I was thinking of getting it and using it for cutting pipe and small pieces of metal. It's limited to 3 1/8". Says it cuts 2900 FPM. Obviously for cutting steel you'd would want about 105 FPM like you said.. But ideally wouldn't you want motor with more torque as well? But then I started thinking about a repurposed miter saw giving you so many more options as far as cutting and thickness. I don't think I've ever seen a miter saw for metal. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that?
@@cityguyusa : You need to look into the Evolution saws, DeWalt, Milwaukee, also make carbide tooth saws that run about 1,400 rpm for cutting steel, at the moment, Evolution is the only one I know of that is a miter type, the others you have to swivel the vice, but they will do a miter.....I have used the DeWalts [14" blade] and own an Evolution [14 and 15 inch blade].....it does a great job on steel and they make blades for stainless, aluminum and carbon steel...... As Mr. Pete says, you can also use an abrasive cut off saw....they sometimes do not do as accurate of a cut, but they are good for certain things like angle that is thick [over 1/8 inch] I have had great experience with the DeWalt Brand, and have owned Ridgid, and Porter Cable....but the Porter cable was 25 years ago, and I do not know if the quality is still there...... I cut steel, stainless steel and aluminum in my shop and use all three types for cutting.....the aluminum gets cut on a Sliding Compound Miter Saw.....with a blade designed for aluminum, negative hook and triple chip grind.....do not try and cut steel with this, as you will destroy the carbide blade almost immediately..... As far as your band saw, you can cut aluminum with that, just make sure you have a minimum of teeth [3 at least] in the material or you will end up stripping teeth off.... I hope this may help you out and others, by the way, I also cut wood....... Thanks MrPete222 for a great video, as always, cheers from Orlando , Paul Brown
Of course you get outbid. Happens to me on Ebay also all the time. Because we want to buy everything so cheap, lol. And, as we know, over the time, we win (mostly). How would i like to have the collection system. I have a Emco. No system, i´m the system. I have to take half of the saw apart, grrr.
Nope. He hasn't mentioned getting showered with acorns when he touches the oak trees in the back yard, or starting to sink if he stops on the way out to the shop. Now when the concrete starts to liquefy under your feet, you may have too much caffeine in your system...
Good information. Are you frustrated as much as me with the cheap ( poor quality) of Chinese products imported here into America? I’m am so aggravated with the quality or the lack of equipment I bought from Home Depot. Have they no shame to put their name on this junk? They need us more than we need them! 😠
Yeah I know. My Dads engineering company had to close in the late 70's due to outsourcing setup by incentives lobbied through Washington. I always here his ghost say " When the factories leave America will begin to decline". How right he was.
A great video. A wonderful refresher course. What could be better for a metal guy to watch one of your videos and sip my morning coffee simultaneously.
I appreciate your details and teaching skills.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Your efforts are appreciated.
Thanks
A #1 Video , Mr. Pete !!! No One Compares . So Much Great Information !! Youdaman
Thank you very much
On the oil business: wood bandsaws have the rubber on the wheels. Oil will sometimes cause the belt to come off repeatedly if the saw has been converted. I noticed this when trying to use my wood bandsaw to butcher pork (which contains lard). The meat versions have a little ridge to keep the wheel on.
Great to have a nice metal cutting vertical saw. Nice overview.
You are doing a great job on the DArex. A much better machine then the lisle.
Lyle,
Watching this video (and the others) reminded me of a Toolmaker at work telling me about friction cutting ferrous metals (including the high-temperature super-materials) with a bandsaw. He told me that the saw blade didn't even need teeth to make the cut and that it would glow it got so hot. He tried to demonstrate cutting like that, but the Shop's bandsaw wasn't fast enough. And all of the other Toolmaker's were threatening to kill him for making all of that noise. ;) Thanks for all of your videos -- my high school didn't have any trade classes, so I enjoy watching your videos to pick up some of what I haven't learned since back then.
Thanks
Thanks Mr. Pete. I found a QuickKut meat saw at an auction cheap that I plan to convert for shop use and this series is quite helpful.
Thanks 👍👍
I cam to this video to figure out how to convert a wood band saw i found for sale locally. And behold the boice crane saw is the exact saw i am looking at. This is just perfect. The guy is selling it without the motor and stand. So that is why i need some info.
Mr. Pete,
While pastoring a church in Clinton, Illinois back in the 80s I became heavily involved in wood working and antique restoration. In need of a bandsaw for that endeavor I mentioned it to a couple of people. One was an old Illinois Central railroad worker from the steam days and said he had an old railroad bandsaw I could have, all I had to do was load it up and haul it away. I was rather excited as you could imagine. Upon arrival at his place he took me back through his metal and junk laden back yard to an old Model T garage. Upon opening the doors he said, “There it is” and before me was a band saw like I’d never seen. It was huge! The wheels were every bit of 24 inches in diameter and the top of the thing stuck up above the rafters. I have no idea of the brand but it was a work of art. The castings were very detailed and it sat on a heavy cast iron base. Well, my excitement about a free band saw for my wood working business plummeted. First it was way too big for my small garage shop and plus it was a metal cutting saw. It could have been converted but was impractical for my use at the time so I passed on it. I want to kick myself every time I think about it. But then, I have never had ANY shop where the thing would fit. Oh well.
Dale
Wow, that sounds like a huge machine. But everything that the railroads had was big
@@mrpete222 upon my wifes insistance, i sold my 1955 Chevy pickup ( it was paid for) so she could have a new trailer house. one of the biggest mistakes of my life.
Mr. Pete,
Yes it was a huge bandsaw. It came out of the round table switching yard shop at Clinton. In the heyday of the railroads Clinton was a major hub for the Illinois Central and a few other smaller lines. Over 200 trains passed through Clinton daily, both freight and passenger trains. As a major hub a large shop was needed for maintenance and repair of engines and cars. There is still a railroad car repair and refurbishing company in business there. The old railroader said that bandsaw came out of the round table shop and it was used for all manner of heavy cutting on steam engine boiler and piping components as well as wheel carriages and even track occasionally. I went back there to that old shop a couple of times just out of curiosity. One on my church members was an I C Agent officer and took me there. Illinois Central still owns the property but it’s mostly abandoned. The shop was empty but the yard was filled with rusting parts from the age of steam locomotives. Interesting place.
Dale
Another great video Lyle. I was amazed how the wood blade coped with aluminium. The course blade would help a great deal with clearing swarf. Like you say . Not sure how long the blade would last but very interesting non the less. Thanks
I Just got one of those Delta Milwaukee 14" bandsaws. It had the riser on it and this one was pretty old but in great condition (aside from the lime green paint which is gone now). But it didn't have the gear box .......... HOWEVER it came with the coolest Walker Turner MOTOR that has 2 gears housed in the shaft end of it which reduces the motor's RPM to 750 before it touches the first pulley. The gears inside were interesting in that it wasn't a worm type reducer. It had a small helical gear on the shaft of the motor about 2" diameter. and the mating gear which drives the pulley was 4" roughly. I just got finished rebuilding it so I haven't even bought a metal cutting blade yet. I noticed in your SFM videos you didn't talk much about TPI. I want to buy a few blades but don't know quite what I want yet. Probably first some kind of all purpose blade. I want a 1/4" blade and wouldn't mind a resawing blade too. I'm very happy with the saw. It cuts wood very well and the saw is solid. Will let you know when I make chips on some metals though. Any advice on blades is welcome.
This is going to be another great series. Metal cutting vertical band saws in my area are as scarse as Hen's teeth. Converting a wood cutting band saw is a define route I wood take. I have a 2hp 120vdc treadmill motor that would give me low end torque and variable speed. Or like Bryan Smith below I could use a spare VFD I have and a 3ph 1hp 220vac motor I have sitting in my shop. Looking forward to the series.
Yes, liked it very much. Thanks.
👍
Another great video...keep 'em coming, Lyle...BTW, I would love to see you make a video showing the Dremel/diamond burr method of sharpening a "hook tooth" wood cutting bandsaw blade by hand...I have been doing it for years, but your skill at explaining things so they're understandable by those new to metal work, would really be valuable...You can sure save lots of money if you can sharpen your own blades and they can be sharpened so well that they cut far better than a new blade with "punched" teeth...I frequently cut 1" aluminum AND 1/4" brass on my old Rockwell, 14" woodcutting bandsaw..I don't worry about dulling the teeth either...I can sharpen one in 20 minutes!!
Thank you, I need to look into that
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I cut a 2 x 4 piece of Fortal this week on a small 4x6 Grainger saw. I decided not to change blades but did speed it up a bit, and weight the arm. 40 minutes.... Having 2 at the ready makes good sense, IF you have the room. Thanks Professor!!
👍👍
well you solve my problem. when I was working on my saw motor I put the belt on the wrong speed and was wondering why it wouldn't cut like it use to. now I know. thanks for the help
I put a three phase motor from e bay on my craftsman with a VFD to control the speed of the blade. I used a 1hp motor to replace the 1/3 hp single phase so the torque at low speed would be enough to prevent stalling. This gives me almost infinite speed control for different metals, wood, plastic and etc. (I try to not cut meat with it though if you know what I mean)
I will be using that type of set up with the VFD. In the future watch for it
i realize I'm kinda off topic but do anyone know a good place to stream new movies online ?
@Bowen Owen I watch on FlixZone. You can find it by googling =)
@Finley Lachlan definitely, I have been watching on FlixZone for since april myself :)
@Finley Lachlan Thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I appreciate it !!
Love this series, I am looking for a band saw, now I know how to convert it to metal cutting, hope I can find one that’s not outrageous in price.
👍
Good morning! I just came in from the shop and had counted the rpm with a stop watch before watching this video. Mine is turning 36 rpm at slowest speed which is about 132 feet per minute. Thank you. Metal cutting blade is on order.
👍👍
Thanks
@@mrpete222 Good afternoon, I have posted a video on my channel cutting some 1/4 cold rolled steel. Kind of slow but it did cut. 14 tooth 0.025" blade. Thank you.
Howdy Mr Pete, thanks for a great channel. It occurred to me that on the last band saw, you could use the centre guard securing stud to add an intermediate pulley by adding a stepped pulley with a couple of bearings machined in. The driven end shaft looked long enough to allow the pulley to be moved outwards and maintain alignment.
I recently purchased a wood working band saw here in the UK with the intention of converting for steel so am interested to see what you do in the next video.
Thanks keep watching. Lots to come and including several failures
I look forward to the "Pull Gear" test on the band saw. That may just be a better use for that item than on drill presses.
Yes
great idea for vidz Pete
Thanks
Just discovered your channel a week or so ago, I feel that I could be maxing out on some serious catch up viewing... :)
I'm glad you found me. You have a lot of videos to watch, about 1000
@@mrpete222 I could be here for a while in that case, but I know in advance it will be worth it :)
Good video.
Managed to find a Craftsman 12” today converted to metal with a Boston Gear reduction thing. $220! Been looking for years for one.
👍👍👍
I have that same saw with an open bottom stand. It was built in 1950. It still has the bake a light wheels that aren’t cracked but the top wheel is warped and wobbles. I replaced the tired and it works but the blade will pop off when putting a lot of pressure cutting steel. I wasn’t able to remove the upper wheel could you possibly tell me how you got your upper wheel off? Mine is held on with a castle type nut that i removed me the wheel does not budge. I love how you replaced yours and want to do the same on mine, it’s an awesome machine and like you said not a fast process to change speeds but if you only have room for one saw this is the one to have! Thank you for any help you can give and also thank you for all your videos! Best shop teacher ever!!!
Thank you for watching. You are the first one I ever heard from that I had that saw. Sorry, I have no idea how I got that wheel off. Those 20 years ago
I one of the ancient Delta bandsaws one of the first types to be eqipped with ball bearings . it actually braggs about having ball bearings right on the logo badge.
In aluminium boatbuilding here in Australia it is common to use woodworking saws to cut aluminium. We do use aluminium here though and not aloominum like in the states though.
lol
Glenn Brown ...waltzing Matilda...waltzing Matilda...you'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me...
Well dang, but thanks for the instructions I always learn something for watching.. I’ve only had it for about a year and do love the thing. It’s the perfect size for knife making. Any idea where i could get the upper guides and the handle on the wheel for the tensioner? I also just got a Logan 825 lathe but it needs a lot of work so making one is probably a year or more off.
I don’t know what to say other that you have two speeds on your first saw, 105 & 1750 rpm, 1st good for steel, 2nd works good for aluminum and would work for wood although a higher speed might work better. Now the second saw appears you been using it all these years at half the ideal speed for steel so I assume you been cutting plastic. Nice to see you been able to use one of all those belts you’ve accumulated over the years and I can see you made a slight improvement from what the foreman did and put it at the correct speed for steel. Guess you won’t need it for wood or aluminum for a rush job because you got two speeds on the other one that will do. Ok, for the best speeds for certain materials I certainly learned that 105 fpm is ideal for steel but really not sure what your recommendation for the best speed for aluminum, stainless, or wood which is why I initially tuned in. Now it’s not that I didn’t enjoyed your commentary but just saying.
I have several treadmill motors and i plan to use one on a bandsaw...mikeman made youtube channel has great info on how to use and convert a DC motor for AC use
Thanks
Thanks for sharing sir..
👍
Good one
Lyle skip tooth blades are not strictly wood they have hardened teeth for non ferrous metal. Using a cutting wax when cutting non ferrous metals really helps. It comes in a stick type cardboard tube.
Yes, I use them on aluminum
Thanks!
Play songs by Phil collins
Wellsaw is still in business and you might be able to get a replacement pulley for your saw through them. My brother gave me a Wellsaw model 58B that is similar to yours and It had a broken pulley. I bought a new replacement from Wellsaw. It was pretty expensive but they had it. I think it cost about one arm and one leg but I don't remember exactly.
That is exactly why I do not intend to get one, LOL
Mr Pete, how bout mounting a another pulley on that middle stud ( gear cover stud) i think some of the delta metal saws had that setup to reduce the speed...
@mrpete222
I have my dad's vintage Craftsman (King Seeley) bandsaw from the 50's and am wondering if this would work for making into a metal cutting saw? It's model 103.24300 and is the bench style, so making a change with pulley size is going to be a chore as it is so close to the table, but more importantly I notice that some of the parts are likely aluminum so does not seem to be very heavy duty. Can you advise me as to weather you think this machine might work for me or am I just going to destroy it due to possibly of it being too light duty? (Great video's) Thanks!
I would hazard a guess, and so you know. I think the aluminum frame lax rigidity
One thing I have learned from youtube content creators is- nothing is easy! AND its not just me ! LOL...i am making a bandsaw from plans from mathias wandel...anywho i cut my thumb pretty good on a unplugged saw trying to test the fit ...
Ouch
How can I speed up my band saw a little . now I put on 2 half inch pull on motor and 4 inch on saw ? Can you answer my question help me out
Hi Mr Pete. Thanks for the video. I just finished converting my Delta 14” to DC today. I found a used Dayton 1725 rpm 1/2 hp DC motor with a 56c base and it dropped right in. I bought the same KBD SRC you used in the drill press conversion but installed a tach in the SRC box it gives me the RPM but I’ll have to convert that to surface feet per minute. Can you provide speeds for other materials too? Specifically: tool steel, stainless, hardwoods vs softwoods etc.
👍👍
I have a wells saw number 8 but it is missing the gear box a motor.
Good primer on speeds. Looking forward to the next series of videos.
Would it be problematic to use a bigger driven wheel to slow it down?
Thanks.
I do that in the next video
mrpete222, I must have missed that. I thought it was the Pull Gear exclusively.
Thanks.
Hi Mr Pete, I just finished my Delta 14” Conversion to DC today. Found a used Dayton 1/2 hp 1725 rpm 56c base and it dropped right in. I bought the same KBD SRC you showed In your drill press DC conversion and can now easily change speeds. I also like having the lower speed to tune up the tracking on the wheels, bearings and guides when I swap blades. I mounted a rpm display in the KBD box for reference although I need to convert to SFPM. I’d be interested in knowing the other speeds for materials: stainless, tool steel, hardwoods vs softwoods etc. Thanks for video.
Great video, I’m wanting a saw like that. Question is what is the footprint of the Delta saws? Because I’d would have to roll mine around in my shop.
Only about 2' x 2'
Thanks
Mr Pete I've been collecting belts for many years and I have quite a collection like you I might have a little problem
Yes lol
This man never sleeps
I do have insomnia at least two nights per week
Mr. Pete,
If you can only afford one bandsaw, which is better. The vertical bandsaw or the horizontal bandsaw?
My 6" horizontal saw also works it the upright position with a small table attachment. You just lift the saw upright and it stays that way,then 2bolts to add the 6"square table to the frame and your ready for vertical use.
lotta good comments. have an old sears, so your methods will be of interest. so here I am interrupted 5 times. so that 5 tooth at higher fpm got chips out for aluminum.
Yes thanks
Cheap, fast or good. At best you can pick two. Such is the way of life.
lol
There's a 9" Ryobi bandsaw for sale. An older one. I was thinking of getting it and using it for cutting pipe and small pieces of metal. It's limited to 3 1/8". Says it cuts 2900 FPM. Obviously for cutting steel you'd would want about 105 FPM like you said.. But ideally wouldn't you want motor with more torque as well? But then I started thinking about a repurposed miter saw giving you so many more options as far as cutting and thickness. I don't think I've ever seen a miter saw for metal. Is there a reason I wouldn't want to do that?
You can’t use a miter saw for metal. However, you can use a chopsaw with an abrasion blade.
That Bando saw sounds like it runs too fast
@@mrpete222 Why can't you?
@@cityguyusa : You need to look into the Evolution saws,
DeWalt, Milwaukee, also make carbide tooth saws that run about 1,400 rpm for cutting steel,
at the moment, Evolution is the only one I know of that is a miter type, the others you have to swivel the vice, but they will do a miter.....I have used the DeWalts [14" blade] and own an Evolution [14 and 15 inch blade].....it does a great job on steel and they make blades for stainless, aluminum and carbon steel......
As Mr. Pete says, you can also use an abrasive cut off saw....they sometimes do not do as accurate of a cut, but they are good for certain things like angle that is thick [over 1/8 inch] I have had great experience with the DeWalt Brand, and have owned Ridgid, and Porter Cable....but the Porter cable was 25 years ago, and I do not know if the quality is still there......
I cut steel, stainless steel and aluminum in my shop and use all three types for cutting.....the aluminum gets cut on a Sliding Compound Miter Saw.....with a blade designed for aluminum, negative hook and triple chip grind.....do not try and cut steel with this, as you will destroy the carbide blade almost immediately.....
As far as your band saw, you can cut aluminum with that, just make sure you have a minimum of teeth [3 at least] in the material or you will end up stripping teeth off....
I hope this may help you out and others, by the way, I also cut wood.......
Thanks MrPete222 for a great video, as always, cheers from Orlando , Paul Brown
A moment of silence for the poor innocent blades that were sacrificed for our entertainment.
lol
Menards are growing. We have them in Ohio now.
They seem to be building new stores constantly
@@mrpete222 Maybe they will overtake Walmart(hope, hope).
"you every notice everything is 20 years ago?" The older I get the more that seems true...
More accurately you know I have to say 40 years
Of course you get outbid. Happens to me on Ebay also all the time. Because we want to buy everything so cheap, lol. And, as we know, over the time, we win (mostly). How would i like to have the collection system. I have a Emco. No system, i´m the system. I have to take half of the saw apart, grrr.
Your voice sounds so like Jimmy Stewart's it's uncanny
Thank you, I have been told that many times
Sounds like somebody had too much coffee.
Who me?
Nope. He hasn't mentioned getting showered with acorns when he touches the oak trees in the back yard, or starting to sink if he stops on the way out to the shop. Now when the concrete starts to liquefy under your feet, you may have too much caffeine in your system...
23 years u said .lol
Yes
Couldn’t you just swap the pulleys on the delta?
That would speed it up. Think about it and then you'll see.
Stan Ervin damn, sure, where was I when I was writing this...
can you just swap those pulleys ...........
never sell stuff , just trade for other stuff you need.
I simply have to get rid of some of the stuff
Good information. Are you frustrated as much as me with the cheap ( poor quality) of Chinese products imported here into America? I’m am so aggravated with the quality or the lack of equipment I bought from Home Depot. Have they no shame to put their name on this junk? They need us more than we need them! 😠
Yeah I know. My Dads engineering company had to close in the late 70's due to outsourcing setup by incentives lobbied through Washington. I always here his ghost say " When the factories leave America will begin to decline". How right he was.
Most people do not recognize poor quality even if they see it
partially completed manufacturing is a better understanding.