I'm 69 years old, the only trick I use is be patient when installing them onto the hub I get the holes aligned then play with the floor jack until I can slide them on. The rest is pretty arn easy you young whipper snapper!
@@chrishill1286 Hats off to you good sir. Plus I haven't been called young in a while either, so thanks for that ;). The job is not too bad, but feels like there should be an easier way. I have an idea to try next time.
I have broke the long bolts several times that connect the anti-rotation stablilizer to the brackets mounted on the lower "A-Arm" (if you call it an A arm). Is removing to bracket to only way to replace the long bolts? I now know not to expect too extreme an obstacle ( like too steep of a terrain transition or trying to crawl over too large a log or tree trunk) however, putting in the bolts from the bottom up doesn't seem to be an option as the bolts head is supposed to seat in the top. The spacers and washers would work fine connecting to the hime joint if that were the case but the nut will not seat in the top as it is a smaller size than the head of the bolt. I hope I am explaining my question in an understandable way? I just worry that If I break a long bolt afield, I wont be able to get the machine back home? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and video.
If I'm following your question correctly, I believe you do need to remove the bracket to replace a bolt, since as you mentioned the bolt need to be top to bottom. I've personally not had any problems with this bolt but will keep an eye out for it. If it does break in the field, I would expect you to be able to make it back safely if you're careful. I'm certainly not and expert on the topic, but this part seems to be more designed to restrict the over steering with the tracks on, so just don't turn too sharply and I'd expect you to make it back fine.
Put them on my 22 General XP4 not that hard, simple brackets a few bolts and spacers, adjustments are easy? BUT now I fear I have cursed NW Montana, no SNOW! Yet that is. The 4 inches or so we got a few week ago I ran them around the field and rechecked torque and adjustments.
Yes, those back tracks are a real pain, but I think I found a better way to install them. I'll try that next time. I am happy with the tracks, they make that machine a beast, especially in the early spring when neither a skidoo or vehicle would be able to get me in, that machine makes it. The gas mileage with the tracks on is bad. I'm always surprised how quickly the level drops. If I'm remembering right it's about an 1/8th of a tank for roughly 10 km.
That's a LOT of work!
I always forget how much of a pain it is. I guess that's a good thing.
I'm 69 years old, the only trick I use is be patient when installing them onto the hub I get the holes aligned then play with the floor jack until I can slide them on. The rest is pretty arn easy you young whipper snapper!
@@chrishill1286 Hats off to you good sir. Plus I haven't been called young in a while either, so thanks for that ;). The job is not too bad, but feels like there should be an easier way. I have an idea to try next time.
I have broke the long bolts several times that connect the anti-rotation stablilizer to the brackets mounted on the lower "A-Arm" (if you call it an A arm). Is removing to bracket to only way to replace the long bolts? I now know not to expect too extreme an obstacle ( like too steep of a terrain transition or trying to crawl over too large a log or tree trunk) however, putting in the bolts from the bottom up doesn't seem to be an option as the bolts head is supposed to seat in the top. The spacers and washers would work fine connecting to the hime joint if that were the case but the nut will not seat in the top as it is a smaller size than the head of the bolt. I hope I am explaining my question in an understandable way? I just worry that If I break a long bolt afield, I wont be able to get the machine back home? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and video.
If I'm following your question correctly, I believe you do need to remove the bracket to replace a bolt, since as you mentioned the bolt need to be top to bottom. I've personally not had any problems with this bolt but will keep an eye out for it. If it does break in the field, I would expect you to be able to make it back safely if you're careful. I'm certainly not and expert on the topic, but this part seems to be more designed to restrict the over steering with the tracks on, so just don't turn too sharply and I'd expect you to make it back fine.
Put them on my 22 General XP4 not that hard, simple brackets a few bolts and spacers, adjustments are easy? BUT now I fear I have cursed NW Montana, no SNOW! Yet that is. The 4 inches or so we got a few week ago I ran them around the field and rechecked torque and adjustments.
Nice. Tracks are great, and not too bad to swap. Plus, it's only twice a year anyway.
When driving in tracks, what gear do you drive in? Always 4x4, H or L?
I always drive in 4x4 with the tracks on, but use both H and L depending on where I'm driving.
Sure looks like those rear ones are stubborn. 😅
Still happy with them? I also have a 570 and have been debating on tracks. How bads the gas mileage?
Yes, those back tracks are a real pain, but I think I found a better way to install them. I'll try that next time.
I am happy with the tracks, they make that machine a beast, especially in the early spring when neither a skidoo or vehicle would be able to get me in, that machine makes it.
The gas mileage with the tracks on is bad. I'm always surprised how quickly the level drops. If I'm remembering right it's about an 1/8th of a tank for roughly 10 km.
@@TheLandAndLegacy take those brackets off the track and mount the brackets to the machine first simple i have done it 13 times.
@@BruceLizer Thanks, that is exactly what I was planing to try next time. Glad to hear it work better. Cheers.