As a kid I made 20 bucks a day putting flyers in the apartment buildings on Manhattan. One of my first paycheck I bought one of those ahm River Rossi switch steam locomotive. What I liked about it was that it had full interior cab detail. The only real maintenance I ever had to do to it was change the LED brushes in the locomotive. I think brushes were like $0.10 each and you needed two of them. All of my HO trains from the old days where stolen while I was in the Air Force. Inow model mostly in O gauge 3 rail. I like the Williams diesel locomotives because they are simple and I could take them apart grease what they need and then put them back together and they run good. I hate new fancy locomotives with the computer that you have to argue with to shut it off. I have my trains for relaxation I do not want to argue with my locomotives.
I absolutely love those 0-8-0s, three cylinders and way more mechanical complexity than a heavy switching locomotive probably needed to be. Great job on this rebuild, it runs a treat!
Recently started getting back into trains and I’ve watched a lot of your videos. Like you I’ve bought a fair share of engines cheap ($5, $6, $10) from the local hobby shop that has stuff they don’t feel is worth their time to fix. I got a lovely Rivarossi 4-6-2 that just needed a good cleaning and one wire reconnected. Then a bag of assorted Rivarossi 0-4-0 parts that a managed to build a runner out of. And while I’m not big on Diesel engines watching you fix a bunch I thought I’d try one. Picked up a AHM Santa Fe that looked fair for $6 and after removing a tone of gummy grease and a little other cleaning it fired right up. Now I just need the couplers to line up with cars correctly. Anyway, thanks for reminding me I could have some descent engines without spending a ton of money.
AHM offered a really nicely detailed engine in 1972 for $18US. It was often a kid's first serious steam model with working valve gear, boiler details and an ability to pull 15+ cars. Biggest problem with them was the power wipers distributed (and hidfen) all over the plastic model, and people running them too fast, too long causing overheating. Biggest scale model flaw is those deep Rivorossi flanges, but that sure made it hug the code 100 Atlas track kids used.
Good job getting the Rivarossi going for a local subscriber, Harrison! After a lot of assistance it finally started running. I buy used N and HO, and they may stutter at first, but usually end up running very well. Looks like that one just needed time to clear up the issue, and take in the new oil and grease. 🎄🎄🎄
Probably something on brushes and the com. For most copper contacts or places where power travels through metal touching metal i put a tiny dab of dielectric grease. Even if the contact is off slightly they still receive power from one another.
Back in the day, when my partner was in film and video production, he always cleaned the heads of video and audio equipment as well as the heads of video and audio tape recorder/players at home with Ronsonol lighter fluid rather that alcohol because alcohol would promote oxidation whereas the Ronsonol would protect against oxidation.
Super. I always wanted one of the 0-8-0 switchers, but I never got around to getting one. I really liked the truck mounted booster, with the siderods, that was mounted on the front truck of the tender, but it appears that this locomotives tender doesn't have that feature. 💙 T.E.N.
I just got one of these today (same # and railroad name) and it doesn’t run and acts just like yours did. I haven’t had time to take it apart yet. I’ll rewatch this video again. I think my motor is mounted differently shaft comes straight down out of boiler.
funny I technically own two of these 0-8-0s. one is in NJ and the other is stored in NC in my grandparent's attic. maybe i'll get around to finding a third. -Kevin Jenner Productions
The IHB #102 is actually a pretty accurate model. The one you have represents #102 after it's had its tender's forward booster engine removed. They originally came with a rod connected booster engine built into the front truck on the tender, making for some interesting added rod action to the model. Mine has this. I also added one of those trucks to my Mantua 2-6-6-2's tender.
Nice restoration! I’m in Southern California right now and there’s a train shops called Train Crossing. There’s also used stuff, I hope the used stuff isn’t from $30-$70.
Negative pickup is via the tender body. The coupler is a weak point and needs a good contact with the loco and the tender. My 2-8-4 acted the same way.
i have this engine and the wheels were getting stuck, found that the 4 screw btm plate was pushed against the axels. did a slight benderoo and they turn now.
This Locomotive was one of the first I got from eBay that didn't run but I used this video, with my know-how it runs the rails again, and has slow speed to it's really, really heavy I think diecast.
Sorry some of my statement went wrong but like I said you could put her the negative on the bottom of the engine and the power on the wheel it will run when it's off track so when I put it on the track it makes no connection I think it is wiring missing from the trucks in the back
Rivarossi made about three different versions of this loco the differences were all in the drive train. They had the one like you have here then there was on where the motor drove vertically in the cab then the last had the motor in the tender
Have of those from back in the day but it's stored away. Something tells me it's either a newer 080 or lead truck on the tender has been replaced because I seem to remember the AHM/Riverossi 080 having the tender booster drive on the lead truck
hey SMT i have a NYC U.S livery river rossie 2-8-2 the engine at higher speeds even runing bye it self the moter make a squilling noise real loud the train has no modificatiosn its all orignal as fare as know could you tell me what to do to stop the squiling
I wonder if you could fit a cd player motor in place of the three pole RR motor and put in some track sliders or wheel contacts to increase the likelihood that the angry pixies can flow one side to the other. Could be fun...
Yes, carried through the drawbar to the loco. Rail A is from the driver wheels. Rail B from the tender wheels. Both loco and trucks are a plastic frame, so power is carried through the foil axle wipers and the frame wiper/bushings. Often those wipers are your power problem. Dirty, not springy enough, missing, broken off.
Sorry I'm so far away in ohio and for bugging you in your live streams😬 anyway if I get some money for christmas I should be able to send the bachmann to you for a future restoration. P.s. I think you should open a restoring and selling ho locomotive shop!! Thanks filthy train stuff.
I'm no expert but I think the oil and such you put on the motor kind of loosened it up then it took just a little bit to get it going. But don't take my word for and I'm no expert like I said
@@SMTMainline took an old rivarossi 0 8 0 motor apart did not know they had ball bearings for shaft bearings what a mess took me for ever to get back together had to use grease to hold balls in place runa gear now got off ebay for 30$
Strange. I have the same ihb 102 and a a.t.s.f. 102 and they both have vertical can motors with a ton of torque. The ihb is my parts engine though..... Unless I get a new body for it and renumber it.
Is it just me or do you say "Well folks" in every vidio, it should be you new catch fraze if you were a superhero. If you actually were a superhero than when you approach the villain then you say "well folks" and then you throw plasma model trains at the villain to get them down.
Umm. It was essentially "free" but that was because I had purchased over $150 dollars worth of stuff and the discount added up enough to get 2 $15 dollar locos for free but I technically paid like $13 bucks.
As a kid I made 20 bucks a day putting flyers in the apartment buildings on Manhattan. One of my first paycheck I bought one of those ahm River Rossi switch steam locomotive. What I liked about it was that it had full interior cab detail. The only real maintenance I ever had to do to it was change the LED brushes in the locomotive. I think brushes were like $0.10 each and you needed two of them. All of my HO trains from the old days where stolen while I was in the Air Force. Inow model mostly in O gauge 3 rail. I like the Williams diesel locomotives because they are simple and I could take them apart grease what they need and then put them back together and they run good. I hate new fancy locomotives with the computer that you have to argue with to shut it off. I have my trains for relaxation I do not want to argue with my locomotives.
The boiler cap just went YEET
I absolutely love those 0-8-0s, three cylinders and way more mechanical complexity than a heavy switching locomotive probably needed to be.
Great job on this rebuild, it runs a treat!
Recently started getting back into trains and I’ve watched a lot of your videos. Like you I’ve bought a fair share of engines cheap ($5, $6, $10) from the local hobby shop that has stuff they don’t feel is worth their time to fix.
I got a lovely Rivarossi 4-6-2 that just needed a good cleaning and one wire reconnected. Then a bag of assorted Rivarossi 0-4-0 parts that a managed to build a runner out of.
And while I’m not big on Diesel engines watching you fix a bunch I thought I’d try one.
Picked up a AHM Santa Fe that looked fair for $6 and after removing a tone of gummy grease and a little other cleaning it fired right up. Now I just need the couplers to line up with cars correctly.
Anyway, thanks for reminding me I could have some descent engines without spending a ton of money.
I am very impressed with your knowledge and ability to be able to fix all those complex problems on other models as well. Good job
AHM offered a really nicely detailed engine in 1972 for $18US. It was often a kid's first serious steam model with working valve gear, boiler details and an ability to pull 15+ cars.
Biggest problem with them was the power wipers distributed (and hidfen) all over the plastic model, and people running them too fast, too long causing overheating.
Biggest scale model flaw is those deep Rivorossi flanges, but that sure made it hug the code 100 Atlas track kids used.
Good job ,most just need a little TLC good to see someone repair the old stuff rather then just throwing them away and buying new.
Good job getting the Rivarossi going for a local subscriber, Harrison! After a lot of assistance it finally started running. I buy used N and HO, and they may stutter at first, but usually end up running very well. Looks like that one just needed time to clear up the issue, and take in the new oil and grease. 🎄🎄🎄
Probably something on brushes and the com. For most copper contacts or places where power travels through metal touching metal i put a tiny dab of dielectric grease. Even if the contact is off slightly they still receive power from one another.
nice peak at a tune up on a classic Rivarossi. Merry Christmas
Better a screwdriver set than something such as a locomotive.
Back in the day, when my partner was in film and video production, he always cleaned the heads of video and audio equipment as well as the heads of video and audio tape recorder/players at home with Ronsonol lighter fluid rather that alcohol because alcohol would promote oxidation whereas the Ronsonol would protect against oxidation.
Super. I always wanted one of the 0-8-0 switchers, but I never got around to getting one. I really liked the truck mounted booster, with the siderods, that was mounted on the front truck of the tender, but it appears that this locomotives tender doesn't have that feature. 💙 T.E.N.
I just got one of these today (same # and railroad name) and it doesn’t run and acts just like yours did. I haven’t had time to take it apart yet. I’ll rewatch this video again. I think my motor is mounted differently shaft comes straight down out of boiler.
funny I technically own two of these 0-8-0s. one is in NJ and the other is stored in NC in my grandparent's attic. maybe i'll get around to finding a third.
-Kevin Jenner Productions
Was just watching your golden eagle video finally found one and have it on his way with caboose
I've noticed with some of my locos I just have to run them full out for an extended period of time and then they seem fine.
Thanks again for fixing it
Congratulations on 5k!!!
Thank you! I never would have guess it would reach anywhere near this and I'm incredibly lucky for it.
He’s now at 31k
You are so good 👍🏻
5K, congrats!!!!!🎉🎊🎈
Great restoration and great locomotive! Also, congratulations on 5k subscribers! You deserve it!
I have a AHM Riverossi 4-8-4 Hudson TH&B , needs repairs, found another in the USA that been restored, going switch shells road markings
The IHB #102 is actually a pretty accurate model. The one you have represents #102 after it's had its tender's forward booster engine removed. They originally came with a rod connected booster engine built into the front truck on the tender, making for some interesting added rod action to the model. Mine has this. I also added one of those trucks to my Mantua 2-6-6-2's tender.
I just got one of those yesterday at the show in a free box. I oiled it and it re soldered the wire and it ran like new
Nice restoration! I’m in Southern California right now and there’s a train shops called Train Crossing. There’s also used stuff, I hope the used stuff isn’t from $30-$70.
I enjoy your restoration videos. Have a Merry and Blessed Christmas.
Negative pickup is via the tender body. The coupler is a weak point and needs a good contact with the loco and the tender. My 2-8-4 acted the same way.
Its certainly not the best design, it would have been better if they just stuck with the wire and plug design they had on some of their older models.
i have this engine and the wheels were getting stuck, found that the 4 screw btm plate was pushed against the axels. did a slight benderoo and they turn now.
Sweet restoration!
This Locomotive was one of the first I got from eBay that didn't run but I used this video, with my know-how it runs the rails again, and has slow speed to it's really, really heavy I think diecast.
They can be great runners with a bit of work.
GREAT JOB ON 5K SUBS SMT!!!!!!!!!!! (I MIGHT make video dedicated to you in the future!!!!!!)
Great video
Great job!
Sorry some of my statement went wrong but like I said you could put her the negative on the bottom of the engine and the power on the wheel it will run when it's off track so when I put it on the track it makes no connection I think it is wiring missing from the trucks in the back
Rivarossi made about three different versions of this loco the differences were all in the drive train. They had the one like you have here then there was on where the motor drove vertically in the cab then the last had the motor in the tender
Very nice!!!
Have of those from back in the day but it's stored away.
Something tells me it's either a newer 080 or lead truck on the tender has been replaced because I seem to remember the AHM/Riverossi 080 having the tender booster drive on the lead truck
later ones had booster earlier one came like this
I have that one. Takes a lot of maintenance
I actually have an older version of the same. That is unless the owner changed the motor and stuff
You sound like me. I always drop stuff and or cut or stab myself at 1 point or another 😆
Same. I stabbed myself with tweezers and it looked like a tiny vampire bit me
Nice job
hey SMT i have a NYC U.S livery river rossie 2-8-2 the engine at higher speeds even runing bye it self the moter make a squilling noise real loud the train has no modificatiosn its all orignal as fare as know could you tell me what to do to stop the squiling
1 view, 9 likes. And 4 comments.
SOMETHINGS NOT RIGHT HERE.
Eat your cereal
I wonder if you could fit a cd player motor in place of the three pole RR motor and put in some track sliders or wheel contacts to increase the likelihood that the angry pixies can flow one side to the other. Could be fun...
The Rivarossi 0-8-0 switchers pick up electricity from the rails by the tender, right?
Yes, carried through the drawbar to the loco. Rail A is from the driver wheels. Rail B from the tender wheels.
Both loco and trucks are a plastic frame, so power is carried through the foil axle wipers and the frame wiper/bushings.
Often those wipers are your power problem. Dirty, not springy enough, missing, broken off.
I watched the video and lets see if i can fix mine its in rough shape
He really enfisid the E in that well folks
Nice! I'm currently working on an old CP Mantua F-Unit, Any Tips?
Sorry I'm so far away in ohio and for bugging you in your live streams😬 anyway if I get some money for christmas I should be able to send the bachmann to you for a future restoration. P.s. I think you should open a restoring and selling ho locomotive shop!! Thanks filthy train stuff.
Good ho scale toy 0-8-0
I like 0-8-0s
start using lithium("white")grease not oil..It appears the motor armature is gummed up a bit..
hi,where did you get that bridge?
I would love you to make a long straight and run this as fast as possible
great video liked 🚂
Cool
I'm no expert but I think the oil and such you put on the motor kind of loosened it up then it took just a little bit to get it going. But don't take my word for and I'm no expert like I said
did you hear about the train derailment in harpers ferry?
Great job as always. This reminds me, I still owe you $5 for repairing my MASH loco. Oops.
Thanks Mark. I also you don't owe me anything for that resto.
@@SMTMainline took an old rivarossi 0 8 0 motor apart did not know they had ball bearings for shaft bearings what a mess took me for ever to get back together had to use grease to hold balls in place runa gear now got off ebay for 30$
I drop a lot of things when I restore a locomotive
Strange. I have the same ihb 102 and a a.t.s.f. 102 and they both have vertical can motors with a ton of torque. The ihb is my parts engine though..... Unless I get a new body for it and renumber it.
Mine are vertical - and well over 40 years old. I wonder when they switched designs.
Diesel : Grease and oil!!!
BRUH HOW MUCH YOU WANT FOR IT. I literally live in the area the IHB runs through
Nevermind lol
I want one of those though
When a die-hard CSX fan sees a NS fan
CSX FAN: so anyways I started blasting
u said a rivariossi store for parts where is it
Rivarestore.com
What code is your track?
Does anyone know what the oil bottles he uses are?
Labelle 102 oil, labelle 106 grease & woodland scenenics premium hobby lube.
@@SMTMainline Thanks dude!
4:02 I have that exact same station
Howdy
Is it just me or do you say
"Well folks" in every vidio, it should be you new catch fraze if you were a superhero. If you actually were a superhero than when you approach the villain then you say "well folks" and then you throw plasma model trains at the villain to get them down.
I have one of those it’s made in Italy
Hi, here is an old video without sound that I think you might enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/9rMppJa7RNs/v-deo.html
Maybe the track is dirty.
I got this model engine ho scale
I have a lionel prr 080
Wait, u did that for free ? This dude is abusing of your kindness!
Umm. It was essentially "free" but that was because I had purchased over $150 dollars worth of stuff and the discount added up enough to get 2 $15 dollar locos for free but I technically paid like $13 bucks.
Just put it to garbage or cut it with an angle grinder.
Why, Your ideas want company?
@@SMTMainline Just a Joke.
🤣
@@DeutschlanddenDeutschen1987 Same here
Cool