Toyota Tacoma Valve Adjustment How-To - 3.4L V6 (5VZ-FE)
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2020
- Let's check & adjust the valves on a Toyota 3.4L V6 (5VZ-FE) and also replace the valve cover gaskets while we're in there.
For service manual PDFs on the procedure, torque specs, and a photo gallery of the process shown in the video, see here: practicalmoto.com/2020/02/28/...
Tool for adjusting the valves: Schley Products 88250
Parts replaced in this video (with Quantity & Toyota part numbers):
Valve Cover Gaskets (Qty: 2): 11213-62020
Form In Place Gasket Sealant (FIPG, Qty: 1): 00295-00103
Cam End Plug Seals (Qty: 2): 11188-62010
Valve Cover bolt washers (Qty: 16): 90210-05007
Spark Plug Tube seals (Qty: 6): 11193-70010
Oil Filler Cap seal (Qty: 1): 90430-37140
Intake Plenum Gaskets (Qty: 2): 17176-62040 - Авто та транспорт
Really wish I knew an honest mechanic that could do this for me
There’s a couple things I noticed in this video that I would like to correct if I may.
(I work at an independent shop in a farm town Texas)
#1. Crankshaft needs to be turned CLOCKWISE, NOT counterclockwise. In other words, you’ll be pushing your ratchet downwards if you’re turning the engine over from the topside.
#2. When measuring the valve clearance between cam lobe, it’s preferred to get the HEEL (lowest point) of the cam lobe and measure between your valve stem tip and your camshaft heel. Having it at TDC WILL help you, but you want the camshaft HEEL at the valve stem.
However, I do like the way you did this video. Great explanation, great tips and of course super helpful.
Where in Texas I like taking my vehicle to independent shops rather than franchise shops
This is spot on.
You should have mentioned that with the plenum off the engine, it would have been a good time to do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body and IAC valve. Great video.
As well as the MAF sensor yes.
I changed both valve cover, rear cam plug seals, and resealed half moons on head. With my Milwaukee battery ratchet it went very fast on disassembly.
I turned the crank clockwise and checked the valve clearance by turning till each lobe was facing away from the shim. Had to go around a few times but it allowed me to do one side at a time, doing the harder drivers side first.
My truck has 208k miles, and all valves were good as is.(no tight ones). Used cheaper Chinese spark plug seals but didn’t like the thinner Chinese valve cover gaskets, so got genuine Toyota for those and the rear cam plugs. Chinese bolt seals seem nice also, Mahle brand for the 2 manifold seals from rock auto saved and were nice quality -Also got the genuine Toyota gasket sealer in a tube, seemed to have great reviews, but like “right stuff” also. Took me from 9 am to 6 pm to do both sides, cleaning valve covers well and permatex anti seize on all bolts.
So far so good
This is the most detailed and quality video I've found for valve cover gasket replacement on the 5vzfe. The link in the description with the detailed photo step by step instructions are super helpful also.
This must have taken a long time to create. Thanks for sharing 👍
Fantastic work! Very thorough video, greatly documented. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video.. just one advice though engine run clockwise... when you were turning the engine over by hand it appeared to be you were turning counter clockwise
After watching this video and the attention to details, I had to subscribe! Thank you for your enthusiasm, and efforts on these videos! 👍Fonzie thumbs up!👍
instablaster.
Great job and you are very thorough!
Fantastic video!! Thank you. Im at 252k miles
Great video! My dad has an 03 Tacoma that has 320k and still going strong
Phenomenal video and excellent presentation! Thank you so much :)
another toyota and 300zx owner! nice!
I dont know if youre a Toyota mechanic but sure play the part!my hat off to you. My Taco has approximately 400,000 and its still going like a Toyota.
Great job! And great job Toyota for the 5VZFE!
Great video
Great stuff
I dont even own a Tacoma but cant help from watching.
Awesome thanks!!
Wasn’t aware of the oil cap seal!
I enjoyed the video, But I think it would have been better to have the valve covers all prep and ready to install ( i.e. cleaned up with tube seals and gasket installed ) before the FPIG in gaps at the half-moons and the cam caps corners had time to cure and setup. I feel the cover should be installed immediately after the FIPG is dabbed over the gaps at the half-moons and the cam caps corners, to allow the FIPG to form around and seal with the cover gasket.
i like your tacoma
My 3.4 has 560k and I haven't done this yet. It runs great but I'm thinking it's time 😂
331K here. Runs like a dream still. Not sure if I need to. 🤷♂️
At that mileage, pull the heads. Yes Toyota is good, but valve jobs don't last forever. There is no other way to verify seat condition, and how much recession has taken place. Yes, checking clearances let you know you're in trouble [you'll be at or smaller than spec], and in that case the business of changing shims is just kicking the can - did things stay square, or are your valve seats starting to go egg shaped? If there's any question at all about guides, replace them but know that you get forced into a valve job when that happens - seat preparation hinges off of the guides being true.
330k here. Need to replace the gaskets next weekend. All I want for the Xmas is this to go smoothly. Lol
My '01 4Runner is at 516,xxx and runs great. Have never touched the valves. Purchased the truck new and do all of my own maintenance (except, apparently, the valves).
or shuffle the shims around until they are all in spec.
So, how many times did you have to listen to that music loop when you did this in real time?
Somehow mine burnt an exhaust valve at 80k. After getting quote of $3400 (2009) I did it myself, (I sent the heads out) for around $700, including new timing belt, Water pump, Gaskets hoses etc. There are a lot of things to get right. I'm now at 190k - no leaks, still runs great. My tips are A.wash the engine as well as possible before you begin B. take many pictures from many angles after you wash it, for reference later. C. get the FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) from the Toyota dealer, no substitutes . And that plastic thingee is a piece of crap.
Awsome vid, what would you recommend doing if you stripped the thread on the alu head helli coil or just jbweld a stud in and tighten done with a nut
I would helicoil it but be careful to not get metal shavings inside the cylinder head.
I am thinking about checking my 2.4 but it looks like a pain to adjust. The only other one I've done is a honda and it is simple as it uses an adjustment nut.
I like to use oven cleaner on unpainted parts like valve covers. Much cheaper and more effective.
Good tip - I'll have to give it a try.
so...are you rotating this at all on the first part?...
While you're at it you should throw some new knock sensors and cable in
What I need to know is how do you move the crank to the next position correctly?
This is also what I want to know. I'm in the middle of this job, and here's what I did. I cranked it to TDC, then stuck my hand down there with a sharpie marker and marked zero, 90, 180, and 270 on the pulley. Then in between those 90 degree increments, i further divided the needed quadrant into (3) 30 degree increments. I then cranked clockwise while carefully watching for my marks until I got to 180, then went turned slowly more until I got to 210, then 240. My system was not precise, but I think it's working fine, seeing as how at 240, the cam lobes on the needed valves should be up. To get to the second rotation of another 240 degrees, I actually first returned to TDC, THEN I cranked a full 360, then another 90 degrees with my marks to make 450 total, then cranked another careful 30 according to my marks. Tedious PITA, but it's what I did so that I would feel comfy and learn in the process, for my first valve clearance job. Good luck! Let me know if you figured out something more scientific and/or easier.
DEGREES ON ANY WHEEL OR CIRCLE MATCH THE NUMBERS ON A CLOCK FACE DIVIDED BY THREE. 240 DEGREES = 8 OCLOCK POSITION. AN ADDITIONAL 240 PUTS YOU AT 4 OCLOCK
My 99 4runner with 160k miles is constantly misfiring with no check engine light, All cylinders getting spark, thought it could be injectors replaced all of them, still misfiring, im going to do a compression test tonight, really hope its not a burned valve.
Have you replaced the timing belt recently? Could be that it's a tooth off or something of that sort.
So what happened?
My 99 with 190k in it is starting to missfire. I suspect a valve issue.
Wondering what you found.
@@douchebaggins7 type in "1999 Toyota 4Runner Misfire Diagnosis Story" in the search I made a video about it on my other channel
Sup tdubs kid!!!!
What kind of plates are those, never seen em before
It's a French plate
Nice work. Left me know if you ever decide to sell your tacoma
Is OK to start the car right away
Maintenance on the dodge 2500 cummins?
If your lash is too tight, grind the valve stem or shim.
Change the PCV and rubber grommet while you're in there.
THIS IS TOYOTAS LITTLE SECRET. FIXING A BURNT VALVE IS A $4000 JOB
Which direction did you rotate the crank?
@@PracticalEnthusiast facing from the front?
@@chriskutz8473 that's correct.
@@PracticalEnthusiast okay good. For some reason it looked like you were going the other way. You're the only one with a video online doing this on a 3.4. my dealership won't even do the adjustment. Thanks bud
@@chriskutz8473 oh geez. I feel so dumb. You are right, I am rotating it COUNTER CLOCKWISE when looking at the front of the engine. Counter clockwise it the correct direction. Ugh...sorry.
@@PracticalEnthusiast I mean I guess I could just turn the engine on lol. There's nothing in the FSM about which direction. It's easy to get lost in all that. I heard it really doesn't matter and I've heard it screws stuff up. Idk
Mine is a one owner that with 354,000 and never done a valve job I can just imagine how bad it is 🤦♂️
Drive side cover... You didn't really need to unclip the hardness wire that much. It could of stay and move the cover up than turn to the side of the timing is than slip right off. However looking at your video clip under the value cover those burn oil stan is pretty bad compared to mine it's not that bad at 26x,xxx. If you're replacing the caps of the adjustment than you should of hold off on the gasket and seal
The underside of the valve covers did have a lot of carbon build up. I assume the previous owner didn't change the oil very frequently. Luckily it still runs perfectly (because Toyota) and is back on a strict maintenance regimen.
Valve clearance gets looser not tighter as mileage increases!
That's simply not true. They can get looser OR tighter. I've done tons of valve jobs and the intake valves are almost always under spec. The backlash decreases on them due to valve recession. The exhaust valves are either all in spec or slightly over spec though.
"Just be careful"? No. Clean a bit before removing the intake manifold and pulling ignition components off. A blast of air is probably good enough except for offroaders tend to get mud flying in all sorts of odd places. If that's you, then wash that engine down first, please. Wiring harnesses hide dirt that comes free as you start moving it around so the business of wiping down harnesses before valve covers come off just might save your bacon.
I don't believe you even had to take that the full way off to to that could of used socket on it from the side
I need that for my toothpaste what tool is that 😂
I never considered that use case. My life just changed. It's called a tube roller key and you can get them on Amazon. This one was included with the sealant.
Isnt spinning the motor the wrong way is bad? Welp u were spinning it wrong way at 25:40
Could have done without the exorcist music. Rather hear the wrenching and hammering.
jgb .....