The BEST budget Lithium Car Audio Battery: The Super Beast!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 кві 2023
- Super Beast at Battery Hookup: bit.ly/3yog05s
Use the Code diyaudio for a 5% discount.
In this video I show you how to build the best budget lithium car audio batter, the Super Beast from batteryhook.com. This is the cheapest way to get a HUGE lithium battery.
Links* to products used in the video:
JP 40: lddy.no/1ckfu
LTO 6.0: lddy.no/1e006
Multimeter: amzn.to/3oEQAPm
Discount code for multimeter: WUOH6GKZ
Battery Balancer: amzn.to/41xRoEs
JP23 Amplifier: lddy.no/1dae4
If you found this video helpful then you can support the channel on Patreon for as little as $3 a month: / diyaudioguy
Exclusive Discount Codes for DIY Audio Guy fans:
10% off at NVX.com (nvx.com/?ref=n_3Nr6MdZIar-d) with the code DIYAUDIO10
10% off of Custom Speaker Pods (customspeakerpods.com/) with the code DIYAG
5% off from Battery Hookup (batteryhookup.com) with the code DIYAudio
Check out my amazon store:
Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/diyaudioguy
Support DIY audio content by shopping with these affiliates:
Shop for Car Audio at NVX: nvx.com/?ref=n_3Nr6MdZIar-d
Shop for Basshead Gear at Down4Sound: lddy.no/1065t
Shop for Car and Home Audio at Crutchfield: howl.me/cg9bCOKLoK7
Shop for Car Audio at Sonic Electronix: bit.ly/3bazPBs
Shop for speakers at Parts Express: parts-express.sjv.io/0J6eYE
Shop for whole-house auido at Arylic: www.arylic.com?aff=79
DIY Audio Merch: my-store-b3f136.creator-sprin...
Connect with me on social media:
Facebook: / diy-audio-guy-11142806...
Instagram: / diyaudioguy
Twitter: / diyaudioguy1
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
Music By creatormix.com
*As an associate/affiliate marketer I may earn a small commission on qualified purchases on Amazon, Crutchfield, Parts Express, Sonic Electronix, NVX, customspeakerpods.com, batteryhookup.com or Down4Sound. - Авто та транспорт
Super Beast: bit.ly/3yog05s Use the Code diyaudio for a 5% discount.
I wonder what cells are in the 24v 9.6ah K2 Lifepo4 battery from battery hook up.
How u hook up the balancer
Well done! Can't wait to see the testing results. Exciting times!
I'm looking forward to getting it wired up and fired up.
This is awesome!!! Thank you for looking out to us fellow bass heads!
Great content per usual. Thanks for your time and a huge thank you for the video!
I think this is one of your best videos for teaching new bass heads how to start off any new build. Remember kids it takes power to make power. P.S In most applications this would support up to a 5k on a stock alternator with the big 4 done. Thx DiY guy!
Thanks man! I have not seen you down in the comments in a while. I hope all is well.
What is big 4 ?
Great how to vid. Can't wait for the next one. 😎👍👍
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Thanks for the info, imma order that battery from D4S... Awesome info
That is a beast of a battery! Would love to have one for a battery generator!
Great video!!!
just ordered one of these up, price is now $250 but your coupon code still works, thanks Justin love watching your vids and I'm bummed out when you and Nick dont stream on Mondays. Keep up the good work and Bass on
I will let Nick know!
Thanks for this video... just what i needed..⚡⚡⚡💪
I'm glad you liked it.
Great vid, I was looking for a cheaper battery option and this fit the bill.
I just placed an order for one using your discount code too.
Awesome!
Great info!
Thanks!
Great video explaining how to break it all down. I probably should have just gone this route also instead of spending 3x as much putting all the cells in pretty buss bars hah.
There's nothing wrong with spending a little extra to make things look nice.
Holy crap, you guys are on to a different level. I've been out of the bass stuff for too long.
I will put it this way, the subs I pulled out of storage were bought from a friend of mine, and they were used speakers in 2005. PBX 12"
I also have a set of Memphis 12" from around the same era.
Unfortunately my vintage amps are long gone, but that's ok. What I'm seeing, today you can make 4x the power from a cheapo Amazon amp, and a reasonable battery setup.
I totally get that. I was out of the hobby for a while. I was shocked by how cheap amps are now. Back in the 1990's a 1,000 watt amp was big $$. Now you can grab something like the JP8 for under $200.
@@DIYAudioGuy all about cheap power
@DIYAudioGuy ct sounds amps are great. You can get a 2k rms amp for 240$ and it does over rated on the dyno. Realistically after rise you'll be lucky to get 1750 rms but for the price it's great.
Great video
Thanks!
Man I ordered 3 of the cased super beast setups just the other day. Wish I had that code then lol.
A (purposeful) dead short with headways never disappoints!
I’m always very careful when assembling/disassembling packs though. I never want to have an accidental short because, if thick enough, it’d probably weld a busbar together in a dead short before melting everything in a shower of sparks.
Absolutly.
@@DIYAudioGuy where do you hook the positive and negative for the amplifier and alternator on this battery
I used to be in the car audio like a decade ago, and I would drive my daily around with like 24 batteries in it. trying to learn about these new lithium batteries, it’s insane how small and weight they are for how much power they have.
Well i just ordered one! With your code. Thank you! I have two agm xs d3400 and an apex 400 amp alternator. And my taramps smart 5 is still draining the rear amg🤦🏼♂️ hopefully this will stop that🤷♂️
Awesome! I hope it works for you.
@@DIYAudioGuy with your know how any idea why this would happen? It cuts the mids and highs amp off also🤷♂️ I just don't know why the rear battery wouldn't be able to get the current from the alternator 🤷♂️
That spark make me jump everytime!!!😂😂
I almost threw my phone
I had to edit the audio, I said some stuff that is not "advertiser friendly".
🤣😅😅🤣
Great video. Batteries are $4 right now and the 48ah frame with busses is only $7! very affordable!
Oh wow!
You only get one chance to mess up and BOOM!!!! 😂 Thanks for the info. I’m ready to roll the dice from AGM to lithium but I think I’m gonna pay someone to install it. How do you run it with your current AGM?
I just bought this a couple days ago
Crazy how cars use to carry an extra car battery or 3 and/or Capacitators...now it's rare to see that ( unless it's a budget-ish build ) and ul now see racks of LithBats. Tech has been so good to all car Audio Fiends
It is amazing how much had changed.
I'm still rocking XS D3400 AGM on my hybrid with DC-to-DC renogy 60A 800w it bumps hard for a couple minutes then trails off and the amp starts smelling again, about to upgrade from 65ah agm to 45ah LTO 14.7v~
Make sure you don't leave the balancer plugged in once the cells are finally balanced.
Also, you really want to separate the cells and inspect them closely. I had 1 cell that was leaking.
Very nice video. I would add that these cells can run on stock charging systems since 14v is about 80% charge. Max voltage is 14.6.
You also don't want to get them over 150-160°F. So you can't put them under the hood. 👍
Thanks for the tips!
Better to get a voltage disconnect tuned to the specific requirements.
@@GTrainRx7 Who offers such a thing?
@@JasonWW2000 I'm glad you asked... if you do a search for "Voltage Detection Controller A30-U1" you will find it. No links in comments :)
@@JasonWW2000 Also, you're welcome :) I could have used it on my LTO car battery project, but didn't know it existed. Since then I have discovered that LTO simply don't need it.. (balancing more than every 6 months.)
Awesome
I have been wondering about this since we talked about it. I really want one these but I am just sick of buying crap lol. Excellent video though, Thank you!
Right! It is cheap on a per-cell basis, and it is cheaper than any pre-built lithium, but it is still money going out.
@@DIYAudioGuy definitely I have one gasket to buy to finish my build, hopefully fingers crossed. Also I have a 64 AH headway bank, 2 big agms, 2 ultra cap 345 Farads each and a Mechman HOA. I keep wanting to add more stuff to the power part of my build but I think I probably should go ahead and get everything installed and see what the voltage is doing before I add anymore lol.
How’s your build going? You almost done?
@@BassDad how many watts are you runnin?
@@1904audio subwoofers are running on a jp63 @ 1ohm I haven’t done any testing yet so I wouldn’t want to say how many watts exactly but that amp is rated at 6300 watts
@@BassDad you should be as far as battery and capacity goes honestly
Great video just wish u went more in depth on hooking the balancer
Looking back, I think you are right. I will be sure to fix that the next time I film a balancer install.
It's basically 5 wires. You connect to the ends and the 3 spots in the middle. This way the balancer can read the voltage of all 4 groups of cells.
I was arguing with someone about these on one of your videos a couple weeks ago, when you were talking about D4S's lithium batteries.
I said this is the best affordable way to go, with much more output than the overpriced lithium audio places sell.
Project DB makes some really nice bus bars for these cells. Jim works makes some economy bus bars for them as well. Both companies send all hardware needed to hook them all up based on the AH set you buy.
Amazon has 1 1/2" (40mm) heat shrink tubing that fits over these cells perfectly, so you can avoid any arc'ing from vibration on the outter wrapping.
Aliexpress has an empty battery case a 48ah setup fits in as well.
There are people in the comments saying this battery sucks.
I just started researching for replacing My amg's under the hood. My first thought was the titan 8, BUT MAAAAAAAAAAAN, You killed that idea 💡. Currently running TWO D2400's, with a 320 h/o alternator.
Looks like I'll be doing this before I get my pair of XTRs repaired, LMAO
Wish I could post a pic of my diy conversion....built a custom box and got some custom wraps
email me diyaudioguy@gmail.com and I can post them if you like.
How do you wire this into a vehicle? I want to keep the underhood battery for everything "truck" related. Right now I have a 140amp diode isolator running to the underhood battery and another battery behind the back seat of my Suburban. The 2nd battery in the back runs everything aftermarket, ie head unit, sound amp, bass amp, tv screens, and all leds. Is it just as simple as removing the 2nd battery and installing this headway unit or is there other components i need aswell? Any help would be appreciated! Keep up the good videos!!
Headway is great, but you’re limited on voltage. I’m building a 96ah spim bank for just a little bit more and running 15.5v. All the cells are available at battery hookup and Jim’s machineworx just started selling bars for them. He makes great headway bars too!
That is true, if you want to up the voltage headway will not work.
What 15 volts batteries 🪫?
@@guerrillawar616 running 15.5v on spim08hp. They are good to like 16.8 max but most run 15.5-16. Same goes for cmax and yinlong. You can find them through the link the channel posted for battery hookup.
So that's where Jim went from laf then
@@GTILOUD find me a 100ah scib bank for under $400 then. 😂🤡 Some people need more reserve than burst output. Just because YOU think it’s better doesn’t mean it is.
Informative. I must watch this at 0.5x rate. Except it might drain the battery bank. Threes from the base. Third Bass. Via subs. I wish you many subs.
👍
Awesome video. How would 3 of the d4s lto 6.0 compare to that 96ah bank? 3 of them say there good for 9000 to 15000 watts and I have a 415amp alt. Price aside what battery setup would you use? if you don't mind me asking your opinion sir.
You have to weigh the risk and hassle associated with building your own bank versus being able to just hook up a pre-built battery. As far as performance goes to superbeast, with 96 amp hours, will outperform an entire Bank of those lto 6.0. they are only 6 amp hours.
@@DIYAudioGuy could you run the two together safely?
@Trav Hamler thanks for that info. Wish I would have seen this video a year ago.
Im wanting to add pcb headway battery setup as a second battery in my car but worried about charging lifep04 in the cold, what did you do to protect your setup in the winter?
The cool thing about the Headways is that you can use a standard stock alternator voltage for the bank...around 14.0 volts to 14.4 volts but no higher than 14.8. Personally I wouldn't go higher than 14.6 volts or you will reduce the lifespan of the lithium cells. Eventually I'll switch from my LifePo4 lithium battery to an LTO battery. I have a 60Ah A123 LifePo4 battery but I'll be switching in the future to an 80 Yinlong LTO bank...however I'll be raising my voltage from 14.4 to 15.3 to get the most out of the Yinlongs. You'll be surprised at how powerful lithium batteries are...I had XS Power D3100 batteries and the 1 lithium battery destroys them hard...I barely have voltage drop. I can wait to see your reaction when you test a powerful amp with the Headways...you'll be amazed at how little voltage drop you have. Finally, if you think that is good, imagine how much better it can be if you upgrade your alternator to a high output...remember, it takes power to make power!! Awesome video like always!!!
This bank is going on the test bench. I plan to build another one with a nice case to go with this: ua-cam.com/video/MuksKiWpit0/v-deo.html
@Trav Hamler What voltage do you run on your yinlong bank??
@Trav Hamler Holy crap!! That is high but your vehicle must be ok with it. If I tried going that high, I'd start having a lot of problems...15.4 is the highest I would consider for my vehicle. Very cool about running yinlong...they will last a long time!!!
I have a 80ah bank with these and a eBay 300 amp alt I was only getting 13.3 so I added diaodes and now I charge up to 15v I don't like over 14.6 but when I start playing music full tilt is around 14.4-14.6 so it's perfect I just have to play my system all the time 😂😂😂😂
I have a stock alt in my Corolla , around 100amps alt. I’m installing a 5000rms amp to run a 18inch dc xl sub. If I have a lithium battery capable of 148amp hours will it support my system on a stock alt with big 3 upgrade?
I just recently started looking into Lithium banks for my car audio setup. I found Trevor Moon's video and he did his conversion the same way. Instead of removing the legs off the copper side and drilling it to make jumpers, I was thinking of buying a replacement for one of the existing buss bars that looks to be the right shape for a cleaner solution, but when I contacted Battery Hookup they kinda of suggested they weren't awailable seperately. I imagine if you found someone who just used the cells you could get one from them, or I suppose I could also make my own. Any chance you could measure the height/width/thickness of the copper buss bars? Thanks!
The bars on the super beast modules are 2.5" wide and 2mm thick. That's 127mm² of copper.
I bought that voltmeter. It makes thing alot quicker and easier at times
It does not have a lot of functionality, but it simple and cheap.
I have one of these
Hey, I really love what you are doing. How you charge audio battery pack ? Is it by external AC power supply when it drains off or directly from car alternator ? TIA
These can be charged directly from your alternator.
@@DIYAudioGuy But as far as I know alternator will be fried if connected directly to lithium battery without DC-DC charger bcoz of huge current flow to battery as their IR is low!!
@@amerkhafagiable This is why upgrading the alternator is always the first step.
@@DIYAudioGuy what do you mean by upgrade? Change it or add another alternator?
@@amerkhafagiable replace the factory alternator with a high output alternator.
Btw, I always recommend top balancing specially when it comes to lifepo4 batteries/cells. This chemistry spends the majority of its charge cycle at 3.2 nominal. Its a chemistry that had a flat curve. A cell can show 3.2 volts and be 40% soc while another can show 3.2 volts and be at 70% soc. If those cells aren't placed into the same parallel strings but on the next series string the total capacity of your battery will be based off of the 40% soc cell leaving you out of a lot of usable capacity. I know that's what the balancer is for but unless you're leaving the balancer alone to work for over 24hrs without a load placed on it or more it won't properly balance. I recently ran into a problem like this myself recently were after fully charging my batteries the voltages according to the bms were all out of wack with up to .18mv difference which doesn't seem like much but I had a 48ah bank and was only getting 36ah, after taking it apart and properly top balancing I finally got the full capacity and a little extra at 48.7ah. These balancers also have a hard time balancing lifepo4 because they can't tell the difference between soc( state of charge) only voltage. They really only work at their best when these batteries are under their nominal voltage or at max charge because that's when this chemistry has a difference in voltage for the balancers to work and transfer charge accurately.
I am working on another project with these so they are all apart and I can top balance. The voltage was the same on every cell down to .005 volts.
This is a great and cheaper way for me to go with a bank for my SUV. Do you have a video building one of these for a automobile setup that i could follow through with or know of a video I could watch. Thanks for any i formation.
I'm working on one. In the meantime check out HiFi Vega.
How can u make me one for a stock alternator but I need it ready to install , lmk
Thank you very much
Nothing peaks my anxiety more than a dead short.
Yea, I had to edit out some audio and change my shorts.
@@DIYAudioGuy 😂
I love DIY but when it comes to lithium and my lack of experience with it i paid as you might call it the "convenience tax" of the assembled JP40 😅
Nothing wrong with that.
Just a quick question. Do these play nice with a AGM battery? I have an optima yellowtop under the hood. Just wondering if these would be compatible with the battery I have already.
It seems to me that the jury is still out on that question. I hear some people saying never makes battery chemistries, no matter what. But I know of people who are running these with their underhood battery and they're not reporting any problems.
@@DIYAudioGuy okay. I was considering the D4S LTO 6.0 battery. But this seems to be a far superior option for the price. I'm pretty "gung ho" about building one of these bad boys as a battery bank.
P. S.
Where's the test with the 6.0 and the JP23? 🤔🤔😁
Would this be a good upgrade with stock electrical?
Based on everything I've read I'm going to answer yes with an asterisk. 4 of these in series will rest at 13.2 volts, which is pretty close to what your stock battery is going to rest at. You're not supposed to charge these to high voltages, so they should match up well with your stock alternator. A headway bank will match up better with your stock electrical system than other types of lithium.
Now the asterisk, don't take my word for it. Do some more research. Be careful and try not to burn your car to the ground.
Do you needthis if you have a HO alternator and only bang your your system while the car is running?
That depends on your total system power and your alternator output.It doesn't hurt to add an extra battery to serve as a buffer between the alternator and the amplifier. In mind that you don't get full power from the alternator when you're idling.
Saw the price and ordered one. I may order another so I have one for my camper too
I think I know what I need to do now!!! ... I have an inefficient amp that is ready to eat so gotta feed it more. Super Beast upgrade. Might need to build some kind of case to hide or make it pretty. ... I've seen where some people have bought custom buss bars but that brings your cost up significantly. Anyone know of any places that sell kits for this?
This one is going on my test bench. I am going to order another for the truck, I am going to harvest the cells for that one and build something that looks a little nicer.
That's a pretty awesome battery, I might have to get one myself, because that's a LOT of power for the price!
I guess it was originally used for a large, commercial or industrial UPS? (Maybe for a phone or internet master hub or something like that?
Anyway, I have a few questions:
What is the difference between a "BMS" and an "active balancer", What exactly do they do/what are their specific differences/why use one over the other/what are their individual benefits vs. their "less than ideal" properties, why do you need them, and how much does that extra device cost in addition to the battery itself? (Also, could you just use the original control circuitry that the battery came with somehow if you rewired it?)
The BMS will limit the charge and discharge current in addition to balancing the cells. The BMS is the better choice, but to get one that can handle 300a discharge would double the cost of the pack.
All of the original control circuity was removed on this version of the super beast. It may be intact if you get the version in the metal case. I am not 100% sure.
@@DIYAudioGuy OK, I guess I need to do more research into what BMS vs. Balancer means and does, because I'm still not clear the difference, and if the balancer that you got wasn't able to handle the full current of this battery bank then why did you go with it instead of a BMS that CAN handle that much current?
@@JoeJ-8282 The balancer just balances, it keeps all of the cells at the same voltage. A BMS does that PLUS it controls the charge and discharge of the entire battery pack. Without a BMS the cells can charge/discharge without any limit. If I had a 100a BMS then it would only let me discharge 100a to an amplifier that needs to draw 300a.
@@DIYAudioGuy OK. So, am I understanding this correctly? A full BMS controls BOTH charge current to individual cells, (or at least different banks of cells, depending on how complex it is, keeping them more evenly charged between the individual cells and/or banks), AND a BMS ALSO controls the amount/rate of discharge, so as to limit maximum current available and the overall discharge level, so as to never damage the cells from excessive discharge, and then, in comparison, just a balancer ONLY is like having only HALF of a BMS, in that a balancer ONLY controls the CHARGING part of the pack, in mostly the same ways as a BMS does, but a "balancer" alone does NOT have ANY control over the actual discharge rate OR minimum level of discharge... Is that at least close to the way it works?
@@JoeJ-8282 I don't know anything beyond what I have shared with you and I'm not going to speculate.
Definitely need some help or advice to trouble shoot my system... sometimes it plays full volume and the lights dim... other times it seems like the car is throttling the power to the system and it's half as loud but the lights don't dim....i can't figure out what's up and whether i should try lithium
First check all of your connections. Keep in mind that a battery does not make power, it is just for storage. If you are trying to build a big system then consider upgrading the alternator.
@DIYAudioGuy I may just upgrade the alternator, but my system isn't very big.. 1200 watts, 2 12s..checked all my connections multiple times
I've been looking at them, ( lithium) I'm still on factory 170a alternator about 130ahs of agm (about 2100watts) .need more ah's
@Trav Hamler pmc controlled alternator. It also depends on how hard you beating on it. Going down the road no problems. Sitting still (running) about 40 minutes beating on it,and I'm sitting right at 12volt. Orion amps no problem . Don't need that much power but at that PRICE !😍😍
So I’ve had a lingering question for a really long time, how do you know when you’ve got a bad cell in your bank? What’s the definitive way to diagnose a bad cell. I’ve been threw a few lithium set up now, but remain clueless on spotting a bad cell. Buying used cells you run a risk of having a bad cell
You have two cases. Regarding used cells. Test several times; Fully charge and discharge - observing the charge voltage and charge/discharge time.
For an existing battery pack check the 'fully' charged voltage/discharge time. If below expectations then check according to the configuration and problem.
My theory is to balance several cells so their voltage is identical, then wire them in series and add a load. Now check their voltages. If one has a lower voltage than the rest, it might be a slightly weaker cell.
Another theory is to use thermal imaging of the cells under load. Look for the cell that has a different temperature. Once you have a suspected bad cell then do a charge/discharge capacity test to confirm if its weak.
Where did you get the case for the battery balancer? I wanna get the correct one. Thank you.
It came with the balancer.
@@DIYAudioGuy cool, thank you.
Dang it, the balancer in the link didn’t come with the case. 😢
What BMS would you suggest if I stayed 24v
Do you need a bms? If so, you want to match it to whatever your highest discharge current will be. If 100 amps, then get a 100-120A BMS.
Can someone explain hooking up the balancer with this configuration, theres another video by a guy named trevor moon who ran jumpers in between the batteries and the bottom so that has me confused.
Imagine if you had four cells end to end connected in series. You would need to connect five wires. One on the negative side and then one on every positive terminal. So three of those connections would be in between the four cells.
iv been on yinlong, i ruined my whole 6s pack by not having them tied down hard enough, the vibrations from the car over time cause too much stress on the terminals and once one degassed they all went bad. also had them arranged in a line rather then a block formation
I appreciate you sharing this bro definitely good to know.
This bank is going on the test bench, so hopefully that will not be an issue. When I build one for the truck I will make sure to over-build the case. Thanks for the advice.
Will a JY 90 ah lithium be enough to power an 8k amp?
Probably, it may depend on your alternator.
Dam i think the 48 pack is gone and now they just got 32 for 225. Just starting learning about making my own battery bank, any other deal on that website?
Does my discount code still work?
I have the blue headways 3.2v 10ah are they better
The blue are high capacity. The red are high current. So it depends on your needs as to which one is better.
I meannn its cool and all but I'm GOOD 😂
It's not for everyone.
👍
👍
Don’t have the test video yet?
Not yet.
Can the buss bars handle all that power they are awful thin.
I'm seeing a lot of debate online about that.
@DIY Audio Guy yea I mean if your not drawing max output I don't see an issue but if your trying to get max output I'd probably go bigger. I went with a set of econo bars from laf audio but I'm running a 60ah with a group35 agm with electro beam 2/0 wire and a taramps 5k for 2 ds18 12" subs. I have a stock alternator in my wrx and it's great. But I'm gonna be building another 60ah for my escalade and wanna find some bigger bars even then that. I'm gonna be running 2 taramps 5k amps and with the group 35 agm but in that I'll also have a big alternator if not 2 along with electro beam 3/0 wire. My concern of the smaller bars is the heat buildup at the connection of the individual cells. I mean if I were to run those bars I'd probably want to run a fan to try and cool them. Maybe with a thermal switch.
They are 2.5" wide and 2mm thick. That's 127mm² of copper.
Wow. Glad I'm doing my own. That just sounds like something bad possibly waiting to happen. I like to over build things to keep things safe
i dam near jumped out of mt seat at the short! Im a technician
Let's just say that the audio was heavily edited. UA-cam won't let me say what I said when the spark stopped flying.
The only thing that sucks about used cells is the don't put out the full 8c, there always around 5 or 6c. Especially when they're dated 2018
Good to know.
These cells have shown to put out 380 amps max. That's one cell. How can you say they don't put out "enough"?
@@JasonWW2000 I never said anything about don't put out "enough",I said they are not up to par with brand new cells and that's a fact. Can you read?
@@bobbyackerson4125 So you are or are not complaining? I can't tell.
Why does it "suck" if they are not as good as a brand new cell?
Some people buy new cars and some people buy used cars. Just because it's used doesn't mean it "sucks". It's just a different option. I'm more than happy with my used cells. They serve their purpose well and I saved a lot of money. I don't see a down side here.
@@JasonWW2000 yes they are good cells , but the used cells are not up to par with new cells. Especially cells dated 2018 like I originally stated. What do you not understand about that? Yes used cells work but they aren't on the level new cells are as far as discharge and recharge rate. That's what the C-rate is bud. New are 8c , Used your lucky if it holds 6c. Do some research and I mean there are plenty of videos to watch if you can't comprehend reading. Just saying
correction thats current and capacity
I've been using these 12V 280AH LiFePO4 packs for ~$450, but you have to assemble it, these are just 4 bare cells, but i've got over 14KWH for under $2000 or right at $200 if i grab a 48v BMS from Amazon ect that manages each cell directly instead of groups of cells
The bad part of these cells is that if you stack them compactly, making them about the size of a regular car battery, you can really only discharge at 1C constantly without worrying about overheating the inner 2 cells, or using some sort of active cooling between each cell.
My plan is to build a trike with 2 rows of these cells for 16S2P, or 2 groups of 16S1P, with each group driving its own controller and motor for hopefully 28kwh pack for ~$4000(not including assembly)
In eithe case i want each group of 16 being basically just a line down the chassis with air cooling on both sides, i'm not sure if i want to do stainless steel, or aluminium.
That sounds pretty badass.
@@GTILOUD Those would be good to use as a booster pack as long as i could make sure it didnt pull high amperage from the main pack
Why would you not discharge the system before operating on it?
it is a good idea though avoid fully discharging/deep discharging.
I tried, but it seemed to make far to many sparks!
But seriously, that is a good point.
You can't discharge the batteries, it will destroy them (same for lead acid batteries). Minimum voltage is 2.5v, but you really don't want to go that low. So you have to deal with them being charged around 3v or higher. You just have to use caution and go slow.
Whats the voltage for a fully charged lithium battery at resting?
The individual cells are designed to rest at 3.2v -- so 12.8 if four are wired in series.
Lifepo4 is 3.65v.
Li-ion is 4.2v
LTO is between 2.8v and 3v. It's not clear to me what the max is.
Of course, you don't need to be at max voltage to use these cells effectively.
Trevor Moon’s conversion is so much simpler and safer with nothing else to purchase.
Trevor is a great guy. I had him on my live stream a few months ago.
Trevor's video is identical, assuming you are talking about the one titled "How To Convert 96Ah Headway Super Beast to 12v," other than he doesnt show how to hook up the balancer.
0:50 Why did this happen?
The pliers touched the negative terminal and when the pliers cut through the insulation on the positive wire I crated a dead short.
Headway is great if you charge correctly,I have 780ah.......
What is the correct way to charge them?
@@DIYAudioGuy 14.8 max but most hi out put alts charge 15.1,adjustable voltage control in my opinion
@@moabs10blowthru41 That's way too high. These cells are 14.6 max and you don't need to be above 14v to get 90+% of the power.
Side note, why do you have so many of them? Giant system? 80,000 watts? Or maybe just for long run time with engine off?
@@JasonWW2000 not if you're pulling 3000 amps of current,it stays at 14.3 at full tilt.
96hrs of lithium power? WTF does that even mean? You have to give a proper rating with more information.
Seriously dude I hate when they do that shit
He didn't say 96 hours he said 96 amp hours which is a valid rating
Ur dumb af he said 96 amp hours
you really need a basic understanding of batteries and electronics before you start buying lithium
Amp hours.
Normal rating for batteries.
Can get 40ah of 8ah ultras for under 300, and support 8k+ with stock alt lol. Headways are garbo
Where?
Headways in super beast are 96aH for around $250. Do the math. How are they "garbo"?
Not fair. You already know we all lost out 10mm.
🤣
Few problems i have with this video. 1. You only explained c rating as discharge only as if c rating for charging isnt different and important information. 2. Misleading pricing since you didnt include the shipping cost. 3. You didnt do any cell testing or balancing. These can be a good precursors to building a bad bank, or one or two cells killing off other cells. 4. Not showing the correct way/wrong way to wire up a balancer, this is also the quickest way to cause a potential fire as inexperienced users/builders can short the balancer and shoot way more amperage than those tiny wires can take, causing them to melt and potentially touch other things causing an ignition. 5. Not explaining the voltage and temp range for charging and discharging. Thanks for spreading the word about diy entry lithium, but lets be as safe as possible when sharing this type of info with inexperienced folks.
I appreciate the feedback.
Man, that is damn cheap
Sell me that for $300, make a profit and get another one lol 🤪
Please 🙏 lol
@@JamesBond-oc4gm I'm confused?
I wouldnt play with these if you dont know a lot about lithium batteries... They burn like a mother fucker, and they really hate constant charging.
It is not a toy, that is for sure.
Seems too much for me
Too much money or too much to do?
It is definitely a LOT.
Too much too think about
@@arrested-bedevilments876 lol, it actually is a lot the older I get the more I like plug and play stuff
@@dslynx man I think battery hook up pretty much says that you can just saw them in half. Don’t quote me on that though lol
omg ty
Sir what is the cost of this in China?