Ah, nice to talk about a classic again... Like so many things, Beauty is Subjective. What do you think? Are we too focused on the Function of our sports watches that we often overlook their inherent Beauty? 🥃
Last summer I thought long and hard about this, I put my name on the “Ranger waiting list,” then took it off. Then put it back on again and bought a Ranger (cash). It was the most money I’ve paid for a watch. “Buyer’s remorse” crossed my mind. But it didn’t happen. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I’m still in love with my Ranger. I keep looking at it, even though I know the time.😆 But I totally agree with you, a 36mm “oyster case” would’ve been more preferable (I have a 6.5 wrist). I would love Tudor to bring out the original ‘British North Greenland Expedition’ watch. I would buy that in a heartbeat.
I love the depth and richness of your video presentations. Provocative thoughts perhaps for some while subtle affirmations for others. I’m hoping the pendulum of public opinion will swing back towards aesthetic beauty but the demand for functional beauty admittedly may be here to stay. If we start to see a resurgence of demand for dress watches, then there might be hope! Well done as always! 🥃
@@alvinmick218 I long for a return to the watch aesthetics of the 1940s-50s. Smaller movements, 33mm case sizes. Watches that were given as graduation gifts, and used by the young men who went off to war.
The beauty of those models are unmatched. I used to collect vintage watches of the 30s, 40s and 50s and these characteristics you mentioned were why I fell in love with them.
Absolutely brilliant! I'm fascinated by the interplay of these aesthetic forms. Of course, the Japanese would say that beauty will always be achieved with perfect function. I think those early pilot's watches do just that - they tell the time so clearly (like my favourite Breguet!), you just feel a sense of calm and joy pass over you! The irony of modern buyers chasing a blunt, pure tool is that very few actually use the function - so the watch becomes a purely aesthetic choice. But certainly not beautiful. And beauty (admittedly in the eye of the beholder) does seem to be ebbing from the Western man-made world. Is beauty old fashioned?
Explained it better than I ever could James 😉 There's so much to be said about how the modern watch is seen today next to these classics. Fantastic comment! 🥃
I had been lusting over an Omega ‘Air Ministry’ (as it has become known) for a long time. Just before I saw one I bought an Omega 2165A from 1943 that was issued to the British Civil Service in India during WW2. It is 30mm and I realised it was too small to wear regularly. When I saw an ‘Air Ministry’ I wanted to buy it but, couldn’t justify it. Despite its beautiful white dial and blued hands it was again 30mm so unfortunately because it was demanding a relatively high price I decided against buying it. I knew I would never wear it and decided that someone who would wear it deserved it more than myself. Another great insightful video here my friend. Love your outlook on historical Tool Watches. Have a great week! ✊
The Majetek might not make a lick of sense, or be a totally historically accurate pilot's watch, but I think it looks awesome. Then again, I'm always a sucker for anything vaguely resembling a cushion case. Your video reminds me of one of the last cool things that Hodinkee did, which was that Cole Pennington video where he interviewed that Australian guy Andy Tolley about his massive collection of vintage Longines aviation watches, with multiple examples of the Weems model, Lindbergh Hour Angle models, and other examples of early Longines watches that tracked 2 time zones with rudimentary rotating bezels. Check out the video if you haven't already. Always great to have an IDGuy Sunday video!
Never seen this Hodinkee clip and I'll absolutely check it out Floyd! And I fully agree with the cushion case argument... if only more designs would follow the Vacheron 1921. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the Majetek and the video recommendation brother! 🥃
You perfectly articulated feelings I didn't know I had! HA! Functional and aesthetic beauty. It's what I unconsciously look for and desire in these watches and exactly what I'm looking for at the moment. Cheers brother. Great video
Not so much "rose tinted glasses" , as respect for those who were there, the survivors, and the ones who gave the ultimate price. A reminder of what we owe them and should never forget them or their deeds .
Been wearing my Heritage Military (6B/159 reissue) for almost everyday for a year now based on its functionally, legibility, and beauty of simplicity. This video really resonated with me.
How very true. At the heart of things, a simple 3 hander is not only purposeful but also beautiful in its most simplistic form. I think these watches were timeless even from their inception Excellent thoughts and video 🥃
This was very well presented IDGuy. the 6B/159 is arguably the best looking tool watch for the intended purpose. There is just something about it that is calm but focussed if that makes any sense at all. I have to agree with your comment on the BigEye, arguably the best at a glance readable chronograph (in my collection anyway) but still has its own personality.
dear IDG, I really appreciate your knowledge, viewpoint and passion, particularly on this video. I believe what Watches represent today is not what they represented in the past especially in relation to being even necessary, never mind tools for fighting forces. looking forward to your next video.
Thank you so much Ed. It's amazing how things have changed in the last 50 years (no doubt the world will even be stranger in the next 50 😆) Much appreciated brother 🥃
Another brilliant piece. Thanks! The reality is that watches like the 6B/159 and even the UK standard ATP and US standard A7 watches were rugged enough to survive the war while still beautifully simple in design. I have an ATP and an A7 and they both are still keeping excellent time over 80 years later. It seems that today if a watch isn’t capable of “crush depth” or operating in the vacuum of space or 42+ mm in size for maximum visibility, it can’t be considered a “tool watch.” The early watches of the warriors of WWII demonstrate that is mostly hype.
Swatch Group has Longines moving into a higher tier as Omega continues upmarket. It's clearly to go after Tudor, and you can see it reflected in specs and pricing on the Majetek and Ultra Chron offerings. While the Ultra Chron is more true to its original, the Majetek's design is a bit shocking. Maybe it's a watch intended to test the market, gain feedback, and see just how many creative liberties they can take with their reissues? Perhaps more importantly, can Longines sell enough watches in this nearly 4k segment to justify further expansion into the price range? Love the brand, and look forward to what's next. Great video as usual.
Excellent point Jeffrey. The price of the Majetek surprised me a lot... I've always loved them at that 2k price range. It'll be interesting to see what happens next, you're right! Tudor has managed to find its footing so well with price v quality build, they really have become the top contenders BUT Longines has the original designs. Very,very interesting 🥃
@@ID-Guy I find the Longines v Tudor dynamic even more compelling than Omega v Rolex. This is where we see chances being taken with design, materials, movements, etc. Tudor is great, and I love my Pelagos, but they've been a bit stuck with their recent designs. Would be amazing to see Longines push them. As you said, one of the best original design catalogs in the business, and incredible history. Btw your FXD video was absolutely brilliant.
@@jeffreybateman7314 Imagine seeing the OG Weems bezel make a return on one of these Longines? 39mm's, double crown... I'd pay 4K+ for that! 😉 Always amazes me what brands like Omega, Longines and Tissot has in their archives. As much as we love Tudors they do play heavily from Rolex's playbook (dare I say, not such a deep design archive in comparison) - and thank you brother. The FXD continues to blow me away. Really feel so privileged to have one in the small collection 🥃
For me, there is a beauty to a purpose driven design. classic military watches, even if designed purely for function, have something about them that is aesthetically very pleasing to my eye.
thank you for putting this into words and into a nice script and then into a nice, well made video. I too have been of the same mind, and I am sure there are a couple dozen more people around the world are in the same wavelength
Paper, pencil, rulers... I wonder what the design brief/process was like when these watches were made? Did they have multiple color pallettes available? A vast collection of typefaces to reference? A wide array of watch hands to experiment with? Actual pilots for input? An Instagram account to show off their work? 😁 Wristwatches were still pieces of jewelry prior to WWII so it makes sense that less time (and money) was invested in the overall aesthetics of mass-produced pilot watches. Then again, did the watch designers inadvertently create something "beautiful" given the readily available materials at their disposal? Who knows? These pieces were signs of the time and beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Cheers 🍺
You're right Fresh. In most cases I'm sure a watch like these 6B's were aimed at the civilian marketplace back then, it just so happened that the proposal was offered and accepted by the Air Ministry - optimal timing always being the key ;) Kidding aside, the creative process must've been amazing for these back in the day... beautiful hand drawn drafts, hand drawn calligraphy...Imagine a world without Instagram accounts and that level of advertising 😉
The white dial signified “ am “ - daytime watch and the black variant “ pm” was the nighttime one with lumed hands . 6B / 159 is the RAF / MOD store number . I’ve never , until now, considered aesthetic beauty to be in the equation for choosing a watch . Thanks for the ongoing education;)
When you look at anything from the 20’s through 60’s, everything had its own flair so to speak even hand tools from back in the day had that extra touch of class. The name in cursive instead of block letters just stamped in. It’s that little extra ounce of pride in the things they made because they knew they were going to last.
Aesthetic Beauty is missing in most designs today, not just watches. Timeless Beauty always shines. Not the latest and greatest trend. Car designs from the 50’s and 60’s were beautiful. Not many cars today match those. Vitruvius’s ideas still apply today.
All true George. It's something that's affecting every industry (automotive industry today... yikes) Still, at least watches aren't the worst affected, all things considered 😉 We've gotta keep these classics alive...
Brilliant very strongly opinionated use of the language. This storyline is well meditated and powerfully presented. This might be one of the best video's on the history of the aesthetics of military watches. Hats off.....
Great video. Very thought provoking and good to hear a designers perspective. I agee this new Majetek doesn't quite hit the mark compared to the original, having held several vintage pieces. It's almost a completely different design. The problem with Longines is their vintage inspired designs don't pay enough attention to detail to the original military watches issued. Whether it be the size, the bezel or the date function which I could happily do without. Not one modern Longines has proven worthy for me to buy over trying to source the original, genuine iteration at a cheaper price. One big bug bear is the use of automatic movements in all their heritage pieces. They should be manually wound. Auto movements are historically incorrect. Unfortunately I have given up on collecting genuine WW2 pieces because of an increasing number of fakes & Frankensteins. On a parting note. My great uncle passed away last week at 99 years young. He served with the Royal Australian Airforce in WW2 on the PBY Catalina Flying Boat. He was the last remaining crew member in Australia who had served on the Catalina. The motto of his squadron was 'First & Furthest'. Their mascot was Felix the black cat. In reference to the night missions they carried out they were the very first planes to use radar technology. Unfortunately the 6B issued watch was lost many years ago, as it was an object of function rather than aesthetic beauty as IDGuy mentioned
.... I am lucky to own both a 1943 Omega 6B/159 and the JLC " Dirty Dozen " ( that was worn by a Lancaster tail gunner ) ........ the Omega is without doubt one of the most beautiful watches I own ...... my latest watch purchase is also simple , elegant and beautiful , the Christopher Ward Sandhurst ( W10 ) Series 1 .......... and not being 80 years old it also is a practical daily wear watch ..... I know beauty is a matter of personal taste but as a professional sculptor for over 40 years aesthetics is my forte .......
Dear Mr IDGuy, here you go again venturing deep into history bringing us back to why we fell in love with watches in the first place. I would like to see this latest watch in the flesh (yeah flesh, they’re living breathing aren’t they…❤) Love you’re point of view, I always find your vids to be well thought out and objective. ❤Mr IDGuy.
I would like to thank you for not only the start of a significant and thoughtful analysis but also for beginning a line of inquiry that I have been looking to find among the online watch community - a critical look, as you phrase it in your postscript, at a few initial examples of what is better and what lesser in one tributary of watch design. I think you are the ideal person to take up this topic and I hope you will consider doing more presentations of this type in the future. I believe I sense in your thoughts here a viewpoint I share, and please correct me if I'm wrong in this - the view that there are judgments about quality and accomplishment in design that are not simply subjective, that there are achievements that are factual and objective and measurable - there are design errors and there are design excellences. As you said : "I believe that we've lost our way when it comes to that word [beauty] today," and "We have lost that level of elegance with our tool watches." These are not personal reactions. These statements are the beginning of an argument. Some time ago, when I was teaching art on the university level, I opened a year-long course each year by telling the students : "I don't care what you like in art. I don't much care even what I like in art, as I don't wish to become a prisoner of my own tastes. What I want to know is what you respect, and why." It is one thing to like something and be excited by it. Each of us can enjoy what we prefer, and none of us owes an explanation of that to anybody, except perhaps to ourselves. But it is an entirely different matter, and a much more serious one, to admire. Admiration has reasons. And it has responsibilities. You say that we have lost our way towards beauty, and it seems to me that admiration in the watch community has become, or has been always, arbitrary. And so I would like very much to hear more about what you admire, and why you do. What are the attributes that make for excellence, why are they what they are, and why do they count? And how do we know the emperor actually does have clothes?
Would like to hear your analysis on a classic elegant but specific function watch: Vacheron Constantin American 1921. I am usually not drawn to cushion cases but with the offset dial and positioning the crown in the cushion corner, it works
What a subject to talk about 👏🏾 As a watch enthusiast I want a watch which reflects my choices in a single purchase but it really doesn’t happen nowadays. I don’t know but I have a feeling from the Product Line Manager prospective that they always have a futuristic plan for the next launch when it comes to Heritage lineup. They always decide how much they want to give us in a particular way so that we should always go for another option as quick as possible when they issue another watch from another brand or same brand. Most of the watch brands are under certain big umbrella so as a buyer we have very limited choices to shop around and at the end of the day money remains under the same umbrella. So who cares about the disappointments.
I will cheer when Longines or Omega or JLC make a Weems version of this watch with the duo crowns and flat rotating timing bezel. More than likely Longines would do this.
@@ID-GuyI made a recent purchase that's kind of related to this video. If you recall my last comment in this video, see above, I wish that Longines would make a reissue of their Weems pilot watches. I believe if any brand that original made them in WW2 could do so today, it would be Longines. Well, I found out recently they in fact did make a reissue of the Weems designs.. there were several variations. I'm still researching, but it seems like Longines made a limited edition release around 1995-1997 and it may have been a Japan market exclusive. There were 2 versions. A 36mm automatic with rotating bezel lock crown near the 2, and a smaller near period accurate version manual wind only at 33mm with a crown near the 4. There are differences between the dials and the handsets which also set the two apart from each other. They were pretty limited numbers. 3000 for the 36mm automatic. And, 1000 for the 33mm manual. They both have a cream/ivory (outer) and silver (inner) sector style dial. There is also a black dial version of the 36mm, but, I don't think it looks as good. With either dial colors in the 36mm, I don't care for the date window at 3 and I think that was a mistake to include it on such a design. The 33mm is definitely more rare and I think the better looking and more accurate version. I was lucky enough to find a seemingly pretty clean example recently. I look forward to receiving it and hope it all checks out as good as it appears and can enjoy it very soon.. maybe in about a week or two. Incoming from Japan. These must be very little known releases as there are limited information on them and I could only find 1 video on each of them. If you're curious to see and try to discover more about them. Their references are L2.606.4 (33mm 1000pcs) L2.608.4 (36mm 3000pcs) 33mm sounds a bit small compared to the watch sizes I'm used to. But, I take it in the context of a period accurate replica. And, it's just so cool to get a modern recreation from one of the brands that made these important tool timepieces during the last great world war. From what I can see, although it is not thick, I believe under 10mm, it has a somewhat chunky build and thus has more visual wrist presence than its dimensions and dial:bezel ratio may suggest.
Great video and thank you once again for the educational content. I learned new things with you once again. The new Majitek… there is something I like about the look and shape of it. Perhaps, if one were after that cushion style case, one would be better served going for the Ultracron with its 5hz movement and historical correctness?
This made me think about why I dislike so many modern Rolex designs. Submariners and Explorers still cling to their functional "tool watch" origins but in order to fulfill their current role as jewelry, those functional designs get bedazzled with highly polished bits, blingy markers, and tacky branding flourishes like the ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX rehaut. To me, it becomes a contradiction (or caricature?) of brutalism and filigree, that almost mocks the idea that the person wearing it would ever use it for its intended purpose, coming off like Stallone in a tuxedo or a Mercedes G Wagen with low-profile performance tires.
This is so true. Watches have become jewelry rather than a useful precision instrument used to tell time very accurately. I like your outlook. I think the watch industry lost its way the day the term BLING was coined. Hahaha. I own a coupe of Marathon watches and a Damasko watch and I find true beauty in these watches all from their simplicity and high quality.
Another thoughtful post. To your point regarding military watches, at a time of great uniformity and constraint, there was still the want of watchmakers to design and make something that was aesthetically pleasing. To my mind, like a flower that has pushed through a crack in the concrete. By way of modern example, we (as western society) seemingly dress only for comfort and utility. Yes, there are some flairs but there is little enough beauty. Unfortunately, it appears to justify a uniformity, not just of attire, but of spirit. Is this not where we are with watches? All puffer jackets, jeans and tee shirts?
Great points. The "new" Majetek seems far from the original. Eterna (a great brand slipping away from us) did a limited edition of their Majetek some years ago which far more faithful to the original. I believe there are photos of Czech pilots in RAF uniform during WW2 wearing Majetek watches. The white dialled Omega/Longines watches are special though
Holy smokes Eterna's model looks outstanding... I've never seen their vintage configurations before AND their recreations look just as gorgeous! Thank you for turning me onto them! All you ever hear about Eterna is Kontiki & Super Kontiki these days... sad 🥃
I would be very surprised if it wasn't an Omega or Movado 6B (Omega accounted for something like 50% of all pilots pieces of the time) Uncle Herb was rocking a beastly watch 😉
@@ID-Guy that’s for this brother. I really appreciate it. It’ll be fun looking into these. I have his diary and it’s uncanny how much he writes about time and schedules.
Longines is historic and watches with true quality and designs at a reasonable asking price of USD 1,000-4,000; Omega is my premier brand, good pricing for quality, tech and designs for about USD4-5K to 10-12K, if you can afford; yes there are much costlier watches as well.
Must say, this creeping price they're offering them at is a bit alarming. I've always loved these models at that +-2k price range, don't know if I could justify their current prices. Nicely said Eazy 🥃
Imagine a pilot wearing a Credor Eichi 2, that.... would be.... interesting. I feel like Longines has been "forgotten" far too long, and it's time for them to come back to the limelight.
In a world of quarterly earnings and share prices, I think brands play it safe a lot. There’s not as much risk taking as there used to be and I think it’s the beauty that suffers.
Absolutely right, styles and requirements are so different today... and judging by the trends, most brands struggle at the best of times. Brilliantly said as always Nicholas! 🥃
Not sure I love the Majetek. I bought a Longines Heritage Military 1938 Chrono a month ago and I can't take it off my wrist, it's such a great piece! Not a fan of the 19 mm lug distance, but I am getting used to it. The Big Eye is also on my radar. ;)
The ethos behind many of these watches, was as graduation gifts. Having graduated university, many young men would go on to join the RAF. And their Swiss graduation watches, went to war with them.
You have a lot of depth in your thinking, I like that a lot. But I couldn't quite follow the content of this video, i.e. what exactly you wanted to say. I think very often that the watch market has never been so crazy as it is today. It's also a bit crazy that, by our love of pilot's watches, we always glorify war a little, albeit unconsciously. Every war is terrible, but the pilot's watches were built for it.
You lost me. I understand the historical perspective, which you presented so well. However, I didn’t see the direct link with the watch you were referring to. Was it too fancy or what?
You got me thinking about the genius of Louis Cartier and his design for the Santos. No need to trawl over the story for this audience, my point is that the Santos was designed with a specific purpose in mind (though it's tough to call it a tool watch) but M. LC also knew his client would require style and esthetics. It was in his own DNA as well, after all. So as well as the "first pilot's watch" the Santos was and still ia drop dead gorgeous. More than the Tank, which was inspired by a military shape but was always a dress item, the Santos is a shining example of the point you make, IDG.
It's fascinating, that the shift to function over form was propably later in China. The seagull 1963 is something that wouldn't have been commisioned at this time in western europe.
I love Longines and consider them my favorite brand, that said, the Majetek is such a sad step backwards for the heritage line. It’s overall size makes zero sense, especially when compared to the bullseye and sector dial watches which use the same L893 movement. The msrp price however really is beyond understanding. It’s $200 more than the ultrachron!!! How can they justify this? What I really want to see is a sector dial fly back chronograph that captures Longines greatest era and design esthetics. That would be well worth $3800 in my opinion.
Feel the same as you do Adam. The price really gave me a scare... Considering what they still have in their archives (up their sleeves) lets hope they give us more of these faithful legends. Imagine a 6B Weems in this heritage collection, two crowns, the works? I reckon they wouldn't be able to sell them quick enough 😉
Taken as a new design the Majetek is a nice enough watch with a nod to the past but your comments are spot on. I love my Omega 1943 6B/159 still going strong after 80 years. Also spawning a proud line of watches from the Omega 53 through to the modern Quartz G10. All serving the UK military with distinction. Great video thanks.
I Agee 100%. I was also disappointed when I saw this new Longines watch design. Longines is my favorite watch brand for it heritage, history, designs, and value for price. I was really surprised, and as I said, disappointed with the new watch design as you are. I also have and appreciation their designs of Avigation BigEye and other pilot watches. This new ones design is not keeping with what Longines has been doing in recent years.
Inherent beauty... for me is an old Seamaster.. yes it is not practical in this modern magnetic world, and not very sea worthy.... but some day I'm getting me an old thin 34mm beauty like that
Couldn't agree more brother. I reckon it's a necessity to have one in the collection today (whether old or new) Seamasters have such a charm. A 34mm would be perfect for you... find an early 50's / late 40's example with a bumper movement. Maybe a cheeky 165.024? 😉
@@ID-Guy I do love vintage watches. Totally. And I find so many modern ones so very ugly. Really not a fan of Rolex GMTs for example. There is often an elegance lost. And so many watches are just way too large and thick. I really wish Omega , for example, started recreating the Seamasters of old, in a similar size. Definitely around 34-37mm and sub 10mm thick. It's too much to ask...I know... so the option I'm considering is a modern one, like the Aqua Terra 38 / Railmaster..... and then a few years down the line , a lovely dainty Seamaster from an older age And nope. . I can't afford that Seamaster 300 man ha ha Oh A whisky for you. Get a Ledaig 10. You'll like it I think. £42 Amazon. And you should visit their distillery. Tobermory, Isle of Mull 💙💜💙 P.s.... you're really making me look at the modern Longines heritage line! I'll have a look later, but I wonder if there is anything there in a size I like... like those stunning sector dials
I don’t think military watches of yesteryear were designed specifically to be aesthetically pleasing. I think it’s a by product of necessity. They made it simple and legible, I can’t explain the decorative hands. They were blued for practical reasons and I assume the shape is because they had the pattern in stock. When we get to todays watches things get more complicated. There are very few real tool watches today, most tool watches are just styled like that. I assume the reason there are so few watches that have aesthetics fore front indesign is because of the marketing departments. A helium escape valve is not functional, it’s just a gimmick. Did Marine National need an FXD, I’m assuming not. I’m certain the public version does not need the extra lines of text. I think the easiest way off explaining it is. Watches had a purpose and were designed to do that, current watches don’t have a practical purpose and without a firm idea off what needs to be done to do it well, things are styled to make them appealing to consumers.
Excellent review as always Mr. ID. Spot on, you really know your design along with your watches. However, I do wish you would stop using the' aesthetic' word. It has become such a cliche, used by so many reviewers, most of them not nearly as knowledgable as you. Thank you .
I would argue that the current dearth of aesthetic beauty is by no means endemic to the watch industry. We largely live in unattractive times. Certainly there are some exceptional bright spots, but I think they are the exceptions that prove the rule. And those exceptions almost all hark back to elegant and iconic design periods (Cartier and JLC to Deco, for example).
I do not like it; the crown guards do it no justice. A pilot's watch does not have crown guards. No, not for me. Simple 3 hander pilot's watches are classic, but I think this will date and is more of a hybrid of a diver and a pilot (the dilot???). As always, great video. You should still have way more subscribers than you do, are you doing anything to address this?
A "Dilot" is all that needs to be said! 😆 And subscribers... don't know the secret. It's way too technical to nail down at the best of times 🥃 Thanks as Always, Pooh!
Another fantastic review and take on this liberal interpretation of what was once a historic design...it still is but in this interpretation it is not. It's a little frustrating that in prior years, circa 2014(?), Longines did a reinterpretation of the Czech Air Force pilot's with a date window at 42mm (Heritage 1935). While the date window had dated the watch to the 2000s, the design otherwise looked to be an homage but now, this is quite a mutation that IMHO has strayed much too far from the original and in doing so seems to have lost the aesthetic charm of the original.
Ah, nice to talk about a classic again...
Like so many things, Beauty is Subjective.
What do you think? Are we too focused on the Function of our sports watches that we often overlook their inherent Beauty? 🥃
Last summer I thought long and hard about this, I put my name on the “Ranger waiting list,” then took it off. Then put it back on again and bought a Ranger (cash). It was the most money I’ve paid for a watch. “Buyer’s remorse” crossed my mind. But it didn’t happen. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I’m still in love with my Ranger. I keep looking at it, even though I know the time.😆
But I totally agree with you, a 36mm “oyster case” would’ve been more preferable (I have a 6.5 wrist).
I would love Tudor to bring out the original ‘British North Greenland Expedition’ watch. I would buy that in a heartbeat.
I love the depth and richness of your video presentations. Provocative thoughts perhaps for some while subtle affirmations for others. I’m hoping the pendulum of public opinion will swing back towards aesthetic beauty but the demand for functional beauty admittedly may be here to stay. If we start to see a resurgence of demand for dress watches, then there might be hope! Well done as always! 🥃
@@alvinmick218
I long for a return to the watch aesthetics of the 1940s-50s. Smaller movements, 33mm case sizes. Watches that were given as graduation gifts, and used by the young men who went off to war.
Beauty is the key to the heart, definitely that simple design and pure clean dial and hands looks elegant yesterday, today and tomorrow.
@@AbdulRWatches
( If you’re referring to the Ranger) Precisely. And yet at the same time, the Ranger is built like a tank.
The Smiths PRS-29AM is a beautiful take on this Longines classic 6B watch.
The beauty of those models are unmatched. I used to collect vintage watches of the 30s, 40s and 50s and these characteristics you mentioned were why I fell in love with them.
Absolutely brilliant! I'm fascinated by the interplay of these aesthetic forms. Of course, the Japanese would say that beauty will always be achieved with perfect function. I think those early pilot's watches do just that - they tell the time so clearly (like my favourite Breguet!), you just feel a sense of calm and joy pass over you! The irony of modern buyers chasing a blunt, pure tool is that very few actually use the function - so the watch becomes a purely aesthetic choice. But certainly not beautiful. And beauty (admittedly in the eye of the beholder) does seem to be ebbing from the Western man-made world. Is beauty old fashioned?
Explained it better than I ever could James 😉 There's so much to be said about how the modern watch is seen today next to these classics. Fantastic comment! 🥃
I had been lusting over an Omega ‘Air Ministry’ (as it has become known) for a long time. Just before I saw one I bought an Omega 2165A from 1943 that was issued to the British Civil Service in India during WW2. It is 30mm and I realised it was too small to wear regularly. When I saw an ‘Air Ministry’ I wanted to buy it but, couldn’t justify it. Despite its beautiful white dial and blued hands it was again 30mm so unfortunately because it was demanding a relatively high price I decided against buying it. I knew I would never wear it and decided that someone who would wear it deserved it more than myself.
Another great insightful video here my friend. Love your outlook on historical Tool Watches. Have a great week! ✊
The Majetek might not make a lick of sense, or be a totally historically accurate pilot's watch, but I think it looks awesome. Then again, I'm always a sucker for anything vaguely resembling a cushion case. Your video reminds me of one of the last cool things that Hodinkee did, which was that Cole Pennington video where he interviewed that Australian guy Andy Tolley about his massive collection of vintage Longines aviation watches, with multiple examples of the Weems model, Lindbergh Hour Angle models, and other examples of early Longines watches that tracked 2 time zones with rudimentary rotating bezels. Check out the video if you haven't already. Always great to have an IDGuy Sunday video!
Never seen this Hodinkee clip and I'll absolutely check it out Floyd! And I fully agree with the cushion case argument... if only more designs would follow the Vacheron 1921. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the Majetek and the video recommendation brother! 🥃
You perfectly articulated feelings I didn't know I had! HA! Functional and aesthetic beauty. It's what I unconsciously look for and desire in these watches and exactly what I'm looking for at the moment. Cheers brother. Great video
A pleasure to share Branden 😉 Definitely a subconscious feeling I've had for a long time too (the Majetek was the catalyst)
Not so much "rose tinted glasses" , as respect for those who were there, the survivors, and the ones who gave the ultimate price. A reminder of what we owe them and should never forget them or their deeds .
Well said Ian 🥃
To quote Sir Winston Churchill: Never in the history of human conflict has so much been owed by so many to so few.
@@jcrobles63 when you hear recordings of Churchills speeches, it often brings a tear to the eye. So very moving, even now.
In 1970, I purchased my first watch, which was sold off as government surplus, and was an ex-RAF Omega 53. I still have it and wear it occasionally.
I agree. How can something so simple and beautiful become so complicated in looks.
Always a fascinating thing to think. Nowadays designers like to over-complicate (me included) 😉
What a great video. All your videos are great, but this is one of the best 👌🏻
I'm very much enjoying your thoughtful videos, thank you.
Thank you so much Steve! These sorts of videos happen now and again, it's always about the luck of the draw 😉
Been wearing my Heritage Military (6B/159 reissue) for almost everyday for a year now based on its functionally, legibility, and beauty of simplicity. This video really resonated with me.
barring the size, i think this is the most beautiful, proportionately perfect watch I've ever seen from longines
Another inspiring and informative video.
Without doubt, your videos are the best on UA-cam, for presentation and content.
How very true. At the heart of things, a simple 3 hander is not only purposeful but also beautiful in its most simplistic form.
I think these watches were timeless even from their inception
Excellent thoughts and video 🥃
Amazing how we crave the simple things (even if we aren't actively looking for them) Ah, the magic of watches...and good designs. Much love Peter! 🥃
I really enjoyed your video. Great watches of a bygone era. Simplicity, functionality and timeless in design.
This was very well presented IDGuy. the 6B/159 is arguably the best looking tool watch for the intended purpose. There is just something about it that is calm but focussed if that makes any sense at all. I have to agree with your comment on the BigEye, arguably the best at a glance readable chronograph (in my collection anyway) but still has its own personality.
dear IDG, I really appreciate your knowledge, viewpoint and passion, particularly on this video. I believe what Watches represent today is not what they represented in the past especially in relation to being even necessary, never mind tools for fighting forces. looking forward to your next video.
Thank you so much Ed. It's amazing how things have changed in the last 50 years (no doubt the world will even be stranger in the next 50 😆) Much appreciated brother 🥃
Another brilliant piece. Thanks!
The reality is that watches like the 6B/159 and even the UK standard ATP and US standard A7 watches were rugged enough to survive the war while still beautifully simple in design. I have an ATP and an A7 and they both are still keeping excellent time over 80 years later. It seems that today if a watch isn’t capable of “crush depth” or operating in the vacuum of space or 42+ mm in size for maximum visibility, it can’t be considered a “tool watch.” The early watches of the warriors of WWII demonstrate that is mostly hype.
Swatch Group has Longines moving into a higher tier as Omega continues upmarket. It's clearly to go after Tudor, and you can see it reflected in specs and pricing on the Majetek and Ultra Chron offerings. While the Ultra Chron is more true to its original, the Majetek's design is a bit shocking. Maybe it's a watch intended to test the market, gain feedback, and see just how many creative liberties they can take with their reissues? Perhaps more importantly, can Longines sell enough watches in this nearly 4k segment to justify further expansion into the price range? Love the brand, and look forward to what's next. Great video as usual.
Excellent point Jeffrey. The price of the Majetek surprised me a lot... I've always loved them at that 2k price range. It'll be interesting to see what happens next, you're right! Tudor has managed to find its footing so well with price v quality build, they really have become the top contenders BUT Longines has the original designs. Very,very interesting 🥃
@@ID-Guy I find the Longines v Tudor dynamic even more compelling than Omega v Rolex. This is where we see chances being taken with design, materials, movements, etc. Tudor is great, and I love my Pelagos, but they've been a bit stuck with their recent designs. Would be amazing to see Longines push them. As you said, one of the best original design catalogs in the business, and incredible history. Btw your FXD video was absolutely brilliant.
@@jeffreybateman7314 Imagine seeing the OG Weems bezel make a return on one of these Longines? 39mm's, double crown... I'd pay 4K+ for that! 😉 Always amazes me what brands like Omega, Longines and Tissot has in their archives. As much as we love Tudors they do play heavily from Rolex's playbook (dare I say, not such a deep design archive in comparison) - and thank you brother. The FXD continues to blow me away. Really feel so privileged to have one in the small collection 🥃
For me, there is a beauty to a purpose driven design. classic military watches, even if designed purely for function, have something about them that is aesthetically very pleasing to my eye.
No doubt! There is so much to love about "design for function" - who could ever put down a 5517 MilSub and say "it's not for me"? 😆🥃
Cracking video, love these old watches, somehow nobody seems to re create these watches exactly how they looked but just a miss match of designs
Thank you so much Paul 🥃Imagine seeing a 6B Weems made to spec (maybe a few mm's larger) Man... what a would that would be...
Beautifully said. Gorgeous pieces from a heroic bygone era. Those original Omega pilots watches are truly beautiful. Another fantastic ID guy video 👌👌
And a pleasure to always share these David! Thank you so much sir. Those 6B's really do hit differently 🥃
@@ID-Guy slainte! 🥃🏴
Love your channel and your insights!
Always a pleasure to share something different 😉 And thank you Teej! 🥃
Been using my HydroConquest as an everyday for the past Decade, Wonderful Brand 👍
thank you for putting this into words and into a nice script and then into a nice, well made video. I too have been of the same mind, and I am sure there are a couple dozen more people around the world are in the same wavelength
You focused on one of my all time brands and model-line. Longines is very underrated and especially the heritage line is total gem.
Love them... Omega & Longines really feel like two brands that fit every category you'd ever want in this hobby (at least that's how I feel) 😉🥃
@@ID-Guy Well said, man. :)
Paper, pencil, rulers... I wonder what the design brief/process was like when these watches were made? Did they have multiple color pallettes available? A vast collection of typefaces to reference? A wide array of watch hands to experiment with? Actual pilots for input? An Instagram account to show off their work? 😁
Wristwatches were still pieces of jewelry prior to WWII so it makes sense that less time (and money) was invested in the overall aesthetics of mass-produced pilot watches. Then again, did the watch designers inadvertently create something "beautiful" given the readily available materials at their disposal? Who knows? These pieces were signs of the time and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Cheers 🍺
You're right Fresh. In most cases I'm sure a watch like these 6B's were aimed at the civilian marketplace back then, it just so happened that the proposal was offered and accepted by the Air Ministry - optimal timing always being the key ;) Kidding aside, the creative process must've been amazing for these back in the day... beautiful hand drawn drafts, hand drawn calligraphy...Imagine a world without Instagram accounts and that level of advertising 😉
The white dial signified “ am “ - daytime watch and the black variant “ pm” was the nighttime one with lumed hands .
6B / 159 is the RAF / MOD store number . I’ve never , until now, considered aesthetic beauty to be in the equation for choosing a watch .
Thanks for the ongoing education;)
Now we'll struggle even more when choosing the watch that suits us... even more nightmares to come 😆🥃
@@ID-Guy Nice problem to have though ;)
When you look at anything from the 20’s through 60’s, everything had its own flair so to speak even hand tools from back in the day had that extra touch of class. The name in cursive instead of block letters just stamped in. It’s that little extra ounce of pride in the things they made because they knew they were going to last.
Ooops. Commented before watching entire video !
Really great video, appreciate the historical perspective!
Interesting point of view.
Aesthetic Beauty is missing in most designs today, not just watches.
Timeless Beauty always shines.
Not the latest and greatest trend.
Car designs from the 50’s and 60’s were beautiful.
Not many cars today match those.
Vitruvius’s ideas still apply today.
All true George. It's something that's affecting every industry (automotive industry today... yikes) Still, at least watches aren't the worst affected, all things considered 😉 We've gotta keep these classics alive...
Brilliant very strongly opinionated use of the language. This storyline is well meditated and powerfully presented. This might be one of the best video's on the history of the aesthetics of military watches. Hats off.....
Great video. Very thought provoking and good to hear a designers perspective.
I agee this new Majetek doesn't quite hit the mark compared to the original, having held several vintage pieces. It's almost a completely different design. The problem with Longines is their vintage inspired designs don't pay enough attention to detail to the original military watches issued. Whether it be the size, the bezel or the date function which I could happily do without. Not one modern Longines has proven worthy for me to buy over trying to source the original, genuine iteration at a cheaper price. One big bug bear is the use of automatic movements in all their heritage pieces. They should be manually wound. Auto movements are historically incorrect. Unfortunately I have given up on collecting genuine WW2 pieces because of an increasing number of fakes & Frankensteins.
On a parting note. My great uncle passed away last week at 99 years young. He served with the Royal Australian Airforce in WW2 on the PBY Catalina Flying Boat. He was the last remaining crew member in Australia who had served on the Catalina. The motto of his squadron was 'First & Furthest'. Their mascot was Felix the black cat. In reference to the night missions they carried out they were the very first planes to use radar technology. Unfortunately the 6B issued watch was lost many years ago, as it was an object of function rather than aesthetic beauty as IDGuy mentioned
Great video - Bravo 👍
Thank you Flemming! Much appreciated 🥃
.... I am lucky to own both a 1943 Omega 6B/159 and the JLC " Dirty Dozen " ( that was worn by a Lancaster tail gunner ) ........ the Omega is without doubt one of the most beautiful watches I own ...... my latest watch purchase is also simple , elegant and beautiful , the Christopher Ward Sandhurst ( W10 ) Series 1 .......... and not being 80 years old it also is a practical daily wear watch ..... I know beauty is a matter of personal taste but as a professional sculptor for over 40 years aesthetics is my forte .......
Dear Mr IDGuy, here you go again venturing deep into history bringing us back to why we fell in love with watches in the first place.
I would like to see this latest watch in the flesh (yeah flesh, they’re living breathing aren’t they…❤)
Love you’re point of view, I always find your vids to be well thought out and objective.
❤Mr IDGuy.
Excellent video.
I would like to thank you for not only the start of a significant and thoughtful analysis but also for beginning a line of inquiry that I have been looking to find among the online watch community - a critical look, as you phrase it in your postscript, at a few initial examples of what is better and what lesser in one tributary of watch design. I think you are the ideal person to take up this topic and I hope you will consider doing more presentations of this type in the future.
I believe I sense in your thoughts here a viewpoint I share, and please correct me if I'm wrong in this - the view that there are judgments about quality and accomplishment in design that are not simply subjective, that there are achievements that are factual and objective and measurable - there are design errors and there are design excellences. As you said : "I believe that we've lost our way when it comes to that word [beauty] today," and "We have lost that level of elegance with our tool watches." These are not personal reactions. These statements are the beginning of an argument.
Some time ago, when I was teaching art on the university level, I opened a year-long course each year by telling the students : "I don't care what you like in art. I don't much care even what I like in art, as I don't wish to become a prisoner of my own tastes. What I want to know is what you respect, and why."
It is one thing to like something and be excited by it. Each of us can enjoy what we prefer, and none of us owes an explanation of that to anybody, except perhaps to ourselves. But it is an entirely different matter, and a much more serious one, to admire. Admiration has reasons. And it has responsibilities.
You say that we have lost our way towards beauty, and it seems to me that admiration in the watch community has become, or has been always, arbitrary. And so I would like very much to hear more about what you admire, and why you do. What are the attributes that make for excellence, why are they what they are, and why do they count? And how do we know the emperor actually does have clothes?
What’s the simple black face model with the sub dial at 6 we can see at the very start of this video
Would like to hear your analysis on a classic elegant but specific function watch: Vacheron Constantin American 1921. I am usually not drawn to cushion cases but with the offset dial and positioning the crown in the cushion corner, it works
Great video!
THANKS,,,GOOD INFO
A pleasure to share Greg! Thank you for taking the time to watch the clip! 🥃
I like what Longines did with this one looks great
And I'm glad there are many who are digging it! Creative liberties are important and hell, I can't complain about designers doing their work 😉
What a subject to talk about 👏🏾 As a watch enthusiast I want a watch which reflects my choices in a single purchase but it really doesn’t happen nowadays. I don’t know but I have a feeling from the Product Line Manager prospective that they always have a futuristic plan for the next launch when it comes to Heritage lineup. They always decide how much they want to give us in a particular way so that we should always go for another option as quick as possible when they issue another watch from another brand or same brand. Most of the watch brands are under certain big umbrella so as a buyer we have very limited choices to shop around and at the end of the day money remains under the same umbrella. So who cares about the disappointments.
Hi ID guy. Long time no talk. Hope all is well and have a great Sunday.
Thank you as always John! Didn't see you last week ;) Really hope you're well sir 🥃
I will cheer when Longines or Omega or JLC make a Weems version of this watch with the duo crowns and flat rotating timing bezel. More than likely Longines would do this.
Man... imagine... 39mm's, Rotating bezel and the works... what an amazing reissue that would be AND I wouldn't put it past Longines to do it either! 😉
@@ID-GuyI made a recent purchase that's kind of related to this video. If you recall my last comment in this video, see above, I wish that Longines would make a reissue of their Weems pilot watches. I believe if any brand that original made them in WW2 could do so today, it would be Longines.
Well, I found out recently they in fact did make a reissue of the Weems designs.. there were several variations.
I'm still researching, but it seems like Longines made a limited edition release around 1995-1997 and it may have been a Japan market exclusive.
There were 2 versions. A 36mm automatic with rotating bezel lock crown near the 2, and a smaller near period accurate version manual wind only at 33mm with a crown near the 4. There are differences between the dials and the handsets which also set the two apart from each other.
They were pretty limited numbers. 3000 for the 36mm automatic. And, 1000 for the 33mm manual. They both have a cream/ivory (outer) and silver (inner) sector style dial. There is also a black dial version of the 36mm, but, I don't think it looks as good. With either dial colors in the 36mm, I don't care for the date window at 3 and I think that was a mistake to include it on such a design.
The 33mm is definitely more rare and I think the better looking and more accurate version. I was lucky enough to find a seemingly pretty clean example recently. I look forward to receiving it and hope it all checks out as good as it appears and can enjoy it very soon.. maybe in about a week or two. Incoming from Japan.
These must be very little known releases as there are limited information on them and I could only find 1 video on each of them.
If you're curious to see and try to discover more about them. Their references are
L2.606.4 (33mm 1000pcs)
L2.608.4 (36mm 3000pcs)
33mm sounds a bit small compared to the watch sizes I'm used to. But, I take it in the context of a period accurate replica. And, it's just so cool to get a modern recreation from one of the brands that made these important tool timepieces during the last great world war. From what I can see, although it is not thick, I believe under 10mm, it has a somewhat chunky build and thus has more visual wrist presence than its dimensions and dial:bezel ratio may suggest.
Another great video. However, your Marlon Brando video is the best. I teared up watching it.
I'll have to dig deep into the archives to find that one again 😉 Ah, what a time it was... thank you Duncan 🥃
@@ID-Guy Thank you for writing back. I have the highest esteem for you and your channel.
Great video and thank you once again for the educational content. I learned new things with you once again.
The new Majitek… there is something I like about the look and shape of it. Perhaps, if one were after that cushion style case, one would be better served going for the Ultracron with its 5hz movement and historical correctness?
This made me think about why I dislike so many modern Rolex designs. Submariners and Explorers still cling to their functional "tool watch" origins but in order to fulfill their current role as jewelry, those functional designs get bedazzled with highly polished bits, blingy markers, and tacky branding flourishes like the ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX rehaut. To me, it becomes a contradiction (or caricature?) of brutalism and filigree, that almost mocks the idea that the person wearing it would ever use it for its intended purpose, coming off like Stallone in a tuxedo or a Mercedes G Wagen with low-profile performance tires.
Curious as to your thoughts on the Hamilton KFM white dial. (Ok, I might be biased because I have one. Wearing it now, tbh.)
I see SanMartin make a homage to the speckle dial. Very high quality.
TBH I didn’t understand it until now.
This is so true. Watches have become jewelry rather than a useful precision instrument used to tell time very accurately. I like your outlook. I think the watch industry lost its way the day the term BLING was coined. Hahaha. I own a coupe of Marathon watches and a Damasko watch and I find true beauty in these watches all from their simplicity and high quality.
Another thoughtful post.
To your point regarding military watches, at a time of great uniformity and constraint, there was still the want of watchmakers to design and make something that was aesthetically pleasing. To my mind, like a flower that has pushed through a crack in the concrete.
By way of modern example, we (as western society) seemingly dress only for comfort and utility. Yes, there are some flairs but there is little enough beauty. Unfortunately, it appears to justify a uniformity, not just of attire, but of spirit. Is this not where we are with watches? All puffer jackets, jeans and tee shirts?
Great points. The "new" Majetek seems far from the original. Eterna (a great brand slipping away from us) did a limited edition of their Majetek some years ago which far more faithful to the original. I believe there are photos of Czech pilots in RAF uniform during WW2 wearing Majetek watches. The white dialled Omega/Longines watches are special though
Holy smokes Eterna's model looks outstanding... I've never seen their vintage configurations before AND their recreations look just as gorgeous! Thank you for turning me onto them! All you ever hear about Eterna is Kontiki & Super Kontiki these days... sad 🥃
@@ID-Guy We can only hope they come back strong. Surely such a history will be picked up by someone with the sense to carry it forward.
So true. Wonderful video. 👍🏻 if anyone can tell me what a Lancaster’s navigator was likely to wear, I’d be grateful?? Here’s to you Uncle Herbie 🥃
I would be very surprised if it wasn't an Omega or Movado 6B (Omega accounted for something like 50% of all pilots pieces of the time) Uncle Herb was rocking a beastly watch 😉
@@ID-Guy that’s for this brother. I really appreciate it. It’ll be fun looking into these.
I have his diary and it’s uncanny how much he writes about time and schedules.
The Longines Military heritage is really nice.
Longines is historic and watches with true quality and designs at a reasonable asking price of USD 1,000-4,000; Omega is my premier brand, good pricing for quality, tech and designs for about USD4-5K to 10-12K, if you can afford; yes there are much costlier watches as well.
Must say, this creeping price they're offering them at is a bit alarming. I've always loved these models at that +-2k price range, don't know if I could justify their current prices. Nicely said Eazy 🥃
I would have assumed you would be more critical of the negative space. Interesting.
Alas, beauty clouds our judgement... (this is me making an excuse for my lack of criticism) 😆🥃
Imagine a pilot wearing a Credor Eichi 2, that.... would be.... interesting.
I feel like Longines has been "forgotten" far too long, and it's time for them to come back to the limelight.
"oh, just my Credor" the pilot says 😉Longines are definitely getting some noteworthy attention, rightly so. And thank you as always Doc 🥃
In a world of quarterly earnings and share prices, I think brands play it safe a lot. There’s not as much risk taking as there used to be and I think it’s the beauty that suffers.
Absolutely right, styles and requirements are so different today... and judging by the trends, most brands struggle at the best of times. Brilliantly said as always Nicholas! 🥃
For the purist the Majetek falls short, but I think it's an awesome statement piece.
Very nice watch in my opinion (Panera Owner) ...
Not sure I love the Majetek. I bought a Longines Heritage Military 1938 Chrono a month ago and I can't take it off my wrist, it's such a great piece! Not a fan of the 19 mm lug distance, but I am getting used to it. The Big Eye is also on my radar. ;)
The ethos behind many of these watches, was as graduation gifts. Having graduated university, many young men would go on to join the RAF. And their Swiss graduation watches, went to war with them.
The 68/159 is indeed glorious but at 32mm . . . I just can't. 34, maybe. But just to have one for the historical significance, that would be great.
You have a lot of depth in your thinking, I like that a lot. But I couldn't quite follow the content of this video, i.e. what exactly you wanted to say. I think very often that the watch market has never been so crazy as it is today. It's also a bit crazy that, by our love of pilot's watches, we always glorify war a little, albeit unconsciously. Every war is terrible, but the pilot's watches were built for it.
You lost me. I understand the historical perspective, which you presented so well. However, I didn’t see the direct link with the watch you were referring to. Was it too fancy or what?
Exactly my thoughts about the Majetek! They got this one so wrong, in my opinion.
You got me thinking about the genius of Louis Cartier and his design for the Santos. No need to trawl over the story for this audience, my point is that the Santos was designed with a specific purpose in mind (though it's tough to call it a tool watch) but M. LC also knew his client would require style and esthetics. It was in his own DNA as well, after all. So as well as the "first pilot's watch" the Santos was and still ia drop dead gorgeous. More than the Tank, which was inspired by a military shape but was always a dress item, the Santos is a shining example of the point you make, IDG.
It's fascinating, that the shift to function over form was propably later in China. The seagull 1963 is something that wouldn't have been commisioned at this time in western europe.
IDGuy, would you consider the Omega Speedmaster to be both functionally and aesthetically beautiful?
Great!
Do you consider Longines Sector to be functional beauty or aesthetic beauty?
Because of this video did i get a SMITHS AIR MINISTRY PRS-29 AM to my airforce uniform.
I love Longines and consider them my favorite brand, that said, the Majetek is such a sad step backwards for the heritage line. It’s overall size makes zero sense, especially when compared to the bullseye and sector dial watches which use the same L893 movement. The msrp price however really is beyond understanding. It’s $200 more than the ultrachron!!! How can they justify this? What I really want to see is a sector dial fly back chronograph that captures Longines greatest era and design esthetics. That would be well worth $3800 in my opinion.
Feel the same as you do Adam. The price really gave me a scare... Considering what they still have in their archives (up their sleeves) lets hope they give us more of these faithful legends. Imagine a 6B Weems in this heritage collection, two crowns, the works? I reckon they wouldn't be able to sell them quick enough 😉
@@ID-Guy btw I meant thank you for the great content and very thoughtful videos you make. Please keep them coming.
Taken as a new design the Majetek is a nice enough watch with a nod to the past but your comments are spot on. I love my Omega 1943 6B/159 still going strong after 80 years. Also spawning a proud line of watches from the Omega 53 through to the modern Quartz G10. All serving the UK military with distinction. Great video thanks.
Don’t you think the ‘Tudor Ranger’ come under this bracket?
I do!
The Ranger and OG ref. 1016, 6350 ,6150, absolutely. Dressy, stylish, sporty, they've got it all! 🥃
Didn't Tom Hardy sport a Weems in the film 'Dunkirk' ?
I Agee 100%. I was also disappointed when I saw this new Longines watch design. Longines is my favorite watch brand for it heritage, history, designs, and value for price. I was really surprised, and as I said, disappointed with the new watch design as you are. I also have and appreciation their designs of Avigation BigEye and other pilot watches. This new ones design is not keeping with what Longines has been doing in recent years.
It looks like if the Majetek is an inspiration for the Seiko Samurai...
I feel like the Smiths (TimeFactors) PRS-29AM is a better homage than Longines' own.
Inherent beauty... for me is an old Seamaster.. yes it is not practical in this modern magnetic world, and not very sea worthy.... but some day I'm getting me an old thin 34mm beauty like that
Couldn't agree more brother. I reckon it's a necessity to have one in the collection today (whether old or new) Seamasters have such a charm. A 34mm would be perfect for you... find an early 50's / late 40's example with a bumper movement. Maybe a cheeky 165.024? 😉
@@ID-Guy I do love vintage watches. Totally. And I find so many modern ones so very ugly. Really not a fan of Rolex GMTs for example. There is often an elegance lost. And so many watches are just way too large and thick. I really wish Omega , for example, started recreating the Seamasters of old, in a similar size. Definitely around 34-37mm and sub 10mm thick. It's too much to ask...I know... so the option I'm considering is a modern one, like the Aqua Terra 38 / Railmaster..... and then a few years down the line , a lovely dainty Seamaster from an older age
And nope. . I can't afford that Seamaster 300 man ha ha
Oh
A whisky for you. Get a Ledaig 10. You'll like it I think. £42 Amazon. And you should visit their distillery. Tobermory, Isle of Mull
💙💜💙
P.s.... you're really making me look at the modern Longines heritage line! I'll have a look later, but I wonder if there is anything there in a size I like... like those stunning sector dials
I don’t think military watches of yesteryear were designed specifically to be aesthetically pleasing. I think it’s a by product of necessity. They made it simple and legible, I can’t explain the decorative hands. They were blued for practical reasons and I assume the shape is because they had the pattern in stock.
When we get to todays watches things get more complicated. There are very few real tool watches today, most tool watches are just styled like that. I assume the reason there are so few watches that have aesthetics fore front indesign is because of the marketing departments. A helium escape valve is not functional, it’s just a gimmick. Did Marine National need an FXD, I’m assuming not. I’m certain the public version does not need the extra lines of text.
I think the easiest way off explaining it is. Watches had a purpose and were designed to do that, current watches don’t have a practical purpose and without a firm idea off what needs to be done to do it well, things are styled to make them appealing to consumers.
I thought Panerai. I think it's the hands
Hands, wide lugs and oversized looking cushion case for me. Panerai was definitely one of the first pieces to cross my mind 😉
Excellent review as always Mr. ID. Spot on, you really know your design along with your watches. However, I do wish you would stop using the' aesthetic' word. It has become such a cliche, used by so many reviewers, most of them not nearly as knowledgable as you. Thank you .
"Price point" - "Design Language" ... I know, I know, it's awful 😆 Thank you so Mick for the compliments! 🥃
I would argue that the current dearth of aesthetic beauty is by no means endemic to the watch industry. We largely live in unattractive times. Certainly there are some exceptional bright spots, but I think they are the exceptions that prove the rule. And those exceptions almost all hark back to elegant and iconic design periods (Cartier and JLC to Deco, for example).
I do not like it; the crown guards do it no justice. A pilot's watch does not have crown guards. No, not for me. Simple 3 hander pilot's watches are classic, but I think this will date and is more of a hybrid of a diver and a pilot (the dilot???). As always, great video. You should still have way more subscribers than you do, are you doing anything to address this?
A "Dilot" is all that needs to be said! 😆 And subscribers... don't know the secret. It's way too technical to nail down at the best of times 🥃 Thanks as Always, Pooh!
Wish Longines had just gone with a enamel dial.
Esthetic beauty is taboo. Think of old buscuit tins, coins, stamps, postcards, all the old psychedelic rock posters. Modernity favours the bleak
I really liked the new Longines Majetek, until I saw the proportions of the original. Now it just looks bloated.
Another fantastic review and take on this liberal interpretation of what was once a historic design...it still is but in this interpretation it is not. It's a little frustrating that in prior years, circa 2014(?), Longines did a reinterpretation of the Czech Air Force pilot's with a date window at 42mm (Heritage 1935). While the date window had dated the watch to the 2000s, the design otherwise looked to be an homage but now, this is quite a mutation that IMHO has strayed much too far from the original and in doing so seems to have lost the aesthetic charm of the original.