Went extra slow, and careful. Didn't wanna remove any more steel than was needed. I was gonna edit the video down, so it didn't feel so slow, but I got lazy :p
You'll have it back in a few days. Let me know if the edge fails. I know Gec can take several sharpening before they stabilize and hold an edge. This blade is so narrow, I didn't wanna cut the apex off and start over. 1095 can be removed quickly, and I was trying to be ultra conservative.
That was really interesting i hopebi have learned a bit. I ve just been stroping my 1095 after i done the initial sharpening so i must be learing something anyway. Thanks for your time appreciate it. Atb paddy. 👍🙂☘️
As always, I appreciate you checking it out. 1095 is simple enough that a strop, is all you need. Till the apex gets too fat to really hold sharpness. Jovonn asked me to actually sharpen this one, so stropping just wouldn't do. The angle on it was probably around 50 degrees inclusive. I got it around 31. Just an estimate of course, but I got the numbers using a pair of calipers and a triangle solver
The more polished the edge,the more closed the apex is,ie,it doesn't have any teeth or striations. Then the knife starts behaving as a wedge, which is why wood carvers like a polished edge for clean cuts,and butchers like around 600 to 1,500 grit to handle slicing or boning work,I used a 120 grit edge to do my marking cuts ,(do the skin cuts ) and do rough carcass cleaning .
Of course the fat content of the meat will dictate how fine and edge you can use on it. Fat tends to cause the blade to stick in the cut,especially pork . Whereas fish is different etc.cheers man.
The thing with the edge on up system is that it doesn't actually measure the angle, or rather it will tell you when a particular edge ,on a blade of a givin thickness and bevel angle and polish is falling outside of,or within a particular norm. However with so many steel types,edge refinements, it would be easier to measure using a system like the CATRA Hobbigoni. Speaking of the Hobbigoni, are you interested in using one for a few months? If so let me know ,I'll mail you mine jeff.
@@blistersteel Never heard of it. I'll have to google it and check it out. I can measure edge angles on my Hapstone/Epa, along with the angle cube, when I so desire. My angle cube is currently in a pass around along with my Crutch. So I don't have anything handy to really check. Short of calipers, and an triangle solver. I understand the whole concept of polishing away teeth etc. The thing is, on some steels, like simpler 1095, 420, aus6, there seems to be more slippage when cutting. The same material with something like m390, doesn't seem to experience that problem. I assume it has something to do with the carbides, or possible just having more wear resistance, so they don't truly polish as much as the others.
@@Jef yeah,the more soft steels that are high in soft alloys seem to be nearly useless to even try to polish to a smoother apex. In my mind the softer alloy steels behave more like a hard rubber,they tend to retain burrs in a rather annoying manner ,unless one cuts them off with a micro-bevel, and this is also not something that I enjoy though there is no shame in it. I tend to post my thoughts so bnb others reading from the outside can see where my mind is at the time of the post in question, I've followed you for a while and I can see that you know your way around the sharpening processes. Mostly I am an edge nut. Lol. Push cuts,pull cuts, slicing versus wedging an object keeps me entertained for quite a while :) I am usually a stone guy,I rarely use a pasted strop as that tends to hide the stones true effect on the apex,but I am a fan of using interrupted strops to debur or align an apex to get the desired slice or cut behavior I am in search of a the moment. Cheers jeff , keep the videos coming.
@@Jef though 1095 seems to appreciate Arkansas stones,that may have more to do with the shallow cut depth of even the coarser arks,also the shape of the grooves left behind by the abrasive (novaculite) seems to encourage these stones for the high carbon steels like 1095 etc .
Awesome video. Awesome stones. Awesome technique.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
Jeff, I love your vids!
Wow thank you 🙏. My vids always make me cringe, but we are our own worst critis
another awesome video Jef - man quite a bit of work for such a small blade.
Went extra slow, and careful. Didn't wanna remove any more steel than was needed. I was gonna edit the video down, so it didn't feel so slow, but I got lazy :p
@@Jef I enjoyed the entire thing! :o) Thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU JEF!! It looks amazing
You'll have it back in a few days. Let me know if the edge fails. I know Gec can take several sharpening before they stabilize and hold an edge. This blade is so narrow, I didn't wanna cut the apex off and start over. 1095 can be removed quickly, and I was trying to be ultra conservative.
That was really interesting i hopebi have learned a bit. I ve just been stroping my 1095 after i done the initial sharpening so i must be learing something anyway. Thanks for your time appreciate it. Atb paddy. 👍🙂☘️
As always, I appreciate you checking it out. 1095 is simple enough that a strop, is all you need. Till the apex gets too fat to really hold sharpness. Jovonn asked me to actually sharpen this one, so stropping just wouldn't do. The angle on it was probably around 50 degrees inclusive. I got it around 31. Just an estimate of course, but I got the numbers using a pair of calipers and a triangle solver
@@Jef i done mine at about 17 each side first. Im not good enough to do it free hand so used the lansky next time it needs it ill try freehand. 👍☘️
@@paddyspotatopeelers2154 When I sharpen em on the edge pro, I usually go to 18º per side. They seem to hold that angle well enough.
@@Jef i dont really hard use mine as you know but i always love learning your ways of doing things. 👍
Good job 👍
Thank you. I really took my time on this one. Maybe too much 😂
4/27/2019 Charlie Campagna had a stroke.
Oh wow I just seen this. Is he ok?
@@Jef I have not heard a thing .
Jef=sharpness perfected....
Hey man thanks for checking out my vid! That stache is still epic 😁
Jef Jewell hahahaha of course!! Was my pleasure!! :))
The more polished the edge,the more closed the apex is,ie,it doesn't have any teeth or striations.
Then the knife starts behaving as a wedge, which is why wood carvers like a polished edge for clean cuts,and butchers like around 600 to 1,500 grit to handle slicing or boning work,I used a 120 grit edge to do my marking cuts ,(do the skin cuts ) and do rough carcass cleaning .
Of course the fat content of the meat will dictate how fine and edge you can use on it.
Fat tends to cause the blade to stick in the cut,especially pork .
Whereas fish is different etc.cheers man.
The thing with the edge on up system is that it doesn't actually measure the angle, or rather it will tell you when a particular edge ,on a blade of a givin thickness and bevel angle and polish is falling outside of,or within a particular norm.
However with so many steel types,edge refinements, it would be easier to measure using a system like the CATRA Hobbigoni.
Speaking of the Hobbigoni, are you interested in using one for a few months? If so let me know ,I'll mail you mine jeff.
@@blistersteel Never heard of it. I'll have to google it and check it out. I can measure edge angles on my Hapstone/Epa, along with the angle cube, when I so desire. My angle cube is currently in a pass around along with my Crutch. So I don't have anything handy to really check. Short of calipers, and an triangle solver.
I understand the whole concept of polishing away teeth etc. The thing is, on some steels, like simpler 1095, 420, aus6, there seems to be more slippage when cutting. The same material with something like m390, doesn't seem to experience that problem. I assume it has something to do with the carbides, or possible just having more wear resistance, so they don't truly polish as much as the others.
@@Jef yeah,the more soft steels that are high in soft alloys seem to be nearly useless to even try to polish to a smoother apex.
In my mind the softer alloy steels behave more like a hard rubber,they tend to retain burrs in a rather annoying manner ,unless one cuts them off with a micro-bevel, and this is also not something that I enjoy though there is no shame in it.
I tend to post my thoughts so bnb others reading from the outside can see where my mind is at the time of the post in question, I've followed you for a while and I can see that you know your way around the sharpening processes.
Mostly I am an edge nut. Lol.
Push cuts,pull cuts, slicing versus wedging an object keeps me entertained for quite a while :)
I am usually a stone guy,I rarely use a pasted strop as that tends to hide the stones true effect on the apex,but I am a fan of using interrupted strops to debur or align an apex to get the desired slice or cut behavior I am in search of a the moment. Cheers jeff , keep the videos coming.
@@Jef though 1095 seems to appreciate Arkansas stones,that may have more to do with the shallow cut depth of even the coarser arks,also the shape of the grooves left behind by the abrasive (novaculite) seems to encourage these stones for the high carbon steels like 1095 etc .