Another great video. Mark, I always enjoy your videos documenting the work you are doing. When you're finished you will have a treasure trove of videos about this airplane. Wonderful.
Good call on the fuse for the USB port! The very last thing you want to do is reset CB’s in flight… especially for a non-essential system! Your panel looks great and shows you put a lot of thought and applied common sense into the ergonomics. Can’t wait to see the finished product and how you will light it (if you do)!
I agree 100%. One better have a really good reason for resetting a circuit breaker in flight. There will never be something so important plugged into a USB charger that if the fuse would blow I'd need to reset it in flight.
Incredible attention to detail for someone who is not working for an aircraft OEM. 😉 Always enjoy watching your videos Thank you for creating, producing and sharing them. 👍
Hah the TW200! Everyone who likes motorcycles has to try one! Went a couple teeth lower on the rear sprocket to keep the RPMs down when on the road. Wouldn’t recommend heading down any really tricky terrain. Drum brake marginal and the big front tire tends to hang up on boulders. Endo’d on mine I’m embarrassed to say trying to keep up with friends on CR’s! But great on dirt roads, crappy pavement. Really fun bike. Just wished they made a 350. Have a KLR now. Love the videos. Thanks for making them. My tail kit coming in the spring!
Thank you so much for your reply. I understand and will bear through it...meanwhile I am enjoying these videos very much..good job to all involved..looking forward to more..thanks again
I was making changes to my panel even after I installed it! I'm still contemplating changes even now that it's finished. Don't you just love "Experimental". Nothing is ever carved in stone. Thanks for the update, and Cheers from Winnipeg.
You just covered 3 of my favorite things in one video.. ha! I love my TW200! Not fast but who cares... It'll go anywhere. Also love model trains. Thanks for sharing your layout!
Awesomesauce! Can’t wait to see the Super Duty in the air! Looks sooo nice, and I’m so impressed with how everything is thought through!! Regards from Norway 🇳🇴
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thanks friend. I appreciate it. I should have learned more from watching your videos, I didn't fish wire through before riveting. It is still dosble but would have been easier. Looking forward to meeting you at future fly-ins. Keep up the great work.... I am learning a lot from your videos.
Recommend adding a disconnect on any item that must be removed from the front. had to service my electric trim indicators on my RV-6 and had to cut the wires to do so. That said it doesn't need to be a fancy connector, Molex or even the crimp banana plugs. I used a Dymo 4200 label maker with heat shrink tubing to mark each wire so that you can match things up when you eventually have to.
If you don't want to be bothered with a connector housing, just crimp D-Sub pins and sockets on the wires, mate the pins/sockets and secure each mate with heat shrink (NON-adhesive lined). Works just like a splice but can be removed by slitting the heat shrink if you ever need to remove the trim switch or indicator.
For the trim switch and indicator, have you thought about adding something like a molex connector? That would allow you to remove the switch without cutting wires in the plane once complete. It also makes it easier to replace, as you aren't trying to do a splice behind the panel, you would simply add the connector end on the bench.
If I understood correctly, the carb heat and defroster controls will be united. If so, you will need to apply carb heat whenever you need defog/defrost. Not a good idea, methinks 😅. Enthusiastic Subscriber!
What do you think the cost would be to have aircraft specialties silk screen the panel. I am ready for mine to to labeled. Keep up the good work I get a lot of intel from your videos. Thanks Tom
I'm not a fan of the panel nor the electrical architecture in this particular airplane. That said, I would at this point try getting as much energy away from the panel as practical. E.G. I would even prefer that the start switch is controlled remotely. I would reduce the number of breakers wherever I could by combining some of the loads into a properly sized breaker and into groups as to allow essential and non essential and redundant appliances to be on separate breakers. I'm not a fan of the cheap klixon circuit breakers because of their failure mode and poor level if protection. Great breakers are expensive so I'm most interested in solid state circuit breakers. They would be especially better in this installation Also, I would add another master shut down or a master power relay near the battery. An amperage ammeter shunt with battery power analytics because I like to watch and finally... Finally, I recommend increasing the panel thickness many times. Go as thick as possible without neglecting the shallow faced mountings found on some instruments and or gauges and indicators. Cheers
I fit comfortably on mine. I’m 6’1” and I can put both feet flat on the ground while stopped. You’ll have to find one and try sitting on it. It’s a fun little bike.
I think the USB port deserves a circuit breaker. -It is probably the only circuit from where devices brought by third parties can damage the plane. -In return flights, smartphones and pads are often discharged, when they'd be decent backups in some emergencies (communications, maps, navigation, meteorology, etc). -Phones and pads may contain important data such as check lists. You don't want to change a hidden fuse to be able to read a check list.
Always glad to see another O-Scale hi rail fan!!!!! I have my LGB running under the Christmas tree this year...
Another great video. Mark, I always enjoy your videos documenting the work you are doing. When you're finished you will have a treasure trove of videos about this airplane. Wonderful.
Good call on the fuse for the USB port! The very last thing you want to do is reset CB’s in flight… especially for a non-essential system!
Your panel looks great and shows you put a lot of thought and applied common sense into the ergonomics. Can’t wait to see the finished product and how you will light it (if you do)!
I agree 100%. One better have a really good reason for resetting a circuit breaker in flight. There will never be something so important plugged into a USB charger that if the fuse would blow I'd need to reset it in flight.
Incredible attention to detail for someone who is not working for an aircraft OEM. 😉
Always enjoy watching your videos
Thank you for creating, producing and sharing them. 👍
Hah the TW200! Everyone who likes motorcycles has to try one! Went a couple teeth lower on the rear sprocket to keep the RPMs down when on the road. Wouldn’t recommend heading down any really tricky terrain. Drum brake marginal and the big front tire tends to hang up on boulders. Endo’d on mine I’m embarrassed to say trying to keep up with friends on CR’s! But great on dirt roads, crappy pavement. Really fun bike. Just wished they made a 350. Have a KLR now. Love the videos. Thanks for making them. My tail kit coming in the spring!
What a guy lol always staying busy
Thank you so much for your reply. I understand and will bear through it...meanwhile I am enjoying these videos very much..good job to all involved..looking forward to more..thanks again
I was making changes to my panel even after I installed it! I'm still contemplating changes even now that it's finished. Don't you just love "Experimental". Nothing is ever carved in stone. Thanks for the update, and Cheers from Winnipeg.
You just covered 3 of my favorite things in one video.. ha! I love my TW200! Not fast but who cares... It'll go anywhere. Also love model trains. Thanks for sharing your layout!
Awesomesauce! Can’t wait to see the Super Duty in the air! Looks sooo nice, and I’m so impressed with how everything is thought through!! Regards from Norway 🇳🇴
That panel is beautiful. Great work. Your videos have given me so many great ideas. Keep them coming good sir...
Your Cricket is coming along nicely too!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thanks friend. I appreciate it. I should have learned more from watching your videos, I didn't fish wire through before riveting. It is still dosble but would have been easier. Looking forward to meeting you at future fly-ins. Keep up the great work.... I am learning a lot from your videos.
Recommend adding a disconnect on any item that must be removed from the front. had to service my electric trim indicators on my RV-6 and had to cut the wires to do so. That said it doesn't need to be a fancy connector, Molex or even the crimp banana plugs. I used a Dymo 4200 label maker with heat shrink tubing to mark each wire so that you can match things up when you eventually have to.
I should have scrolled before commenting!
If you don't want to be bothered with a connector housing, just crimp D-Sub pins and sockets on the wires, mate the pins/sockets and secure each mate with heat shrink (NON-adhesive lined). Works just like a splice but can be removed by slitting the heat shrink if you ever need to remove the trim switch or indicator.
For the trim switch and indicator, have you thought about adding something like a molex connector? That would allow you to remove the switch without cutting wires in the plane once complete. It also makes it easier to replace, as you aren't trying to do a splice behind the panel, you would simply add the connector end on the bench.
If I understood correctly, the carb heat and defroster controls will be united. If so, you will need to apply carb heat whenever you need defog/defrost. Not a good idea, methinks 😅. Enthusiastic Subscriber!
Not sure if I said carb heat in the video but if I did I meant cabin heat!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast My old ears, perhaps 😎.
Great video thanks Mark! Can you show us how you are connecting the thin wires, like the ones coming back from the trim tab servo? Thanks
Yes once I start putting the terminals and Molex connectors I'll show that.
What do you think the cost would be to have aircraft specialties silk screen the panel. I am ready for mine to to labeled. Keep up the good work I get a lot of intel from your videos. Thanks Tom
I'm not a fan of the panel nor the electrical architecture in this particular airplane. That said, I would at this point try getting as much energy away from the panel as practical. E.G. I would even prefer that the start switch is controlled remotely.
I would reduce the number of breakers wherever I could by combining some of the loads into a properly sized breaker and into groups as to allow essential and non essential and redundant appliances to be on separate breakers.
I'm not a fan of the cheap klixon circuit breakers because of their failure mode and poor level if protection. Great breakers are expensive so I'm most interested in solid state circuit breakers. They would be especially better in this installation
Also, I would add another master shut down or a master power relay near the battery.
An amperage ammeter shunt with battery power analytics because I like to watch and finally...
Finally, I recommend increasing the panel thickness many times. Go as thick as possible without neglecting the shallow faced mountings found on some instruments and or gauges and indicators.
Cheers
How well do you fit on the TW200? I want one as well but I’m over 6’3”
I fit comfortably on mine. I’m 6’1” and I can put both feet flat on the ground while stopped. You’ll have to find one and try sitting on it. It’s a fun little bike.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thanks for the reply. Yes I’d love to have one.
I think the USB port deserves a circuit breaker.
-It is probably the only circuit from where devices brought by third parties can damage the plane.
-In return flights, smartphones and pads are often discharged, when they'd be decent backups in some emergencies (communications, maps, navigation, meteorology, etc).
-Phones and pads may contain important data such as check lists. You don't want to change a hidden fuse to be able to read a check list.
6:56 Lon-"jer"-on :-)
Do you have a permanent train layout?
No this one is just a Christmas setup. I do have a bunch of N gauge trains and someday I’ll build a more permanent railroad in N scale.
Garden trains ((usually G-scale))
No G scale is not ride on.
When’s the motor coming
Probably about a year after I order it!