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Craftsman Hex Wrench Sets: Plenty of room for innovation and why T-handles are not always better.
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2023
- amzn.to/46uV6QP Craftsman Hex Wrench Sets: Plenty of room for innovation and why T-handles are not always better.
14pc Craftsman set in Video: amzn.to/46uV6QP
Refrigeration mechanic from Alberta here, definitely agree with the video sentiment.
All the Allen wrench types belong.
I have several of each style set on the truck, and they all are useful.
I use small pieces of heat shrink tubing to 'color code' my most used... works well!
In the machine shop, where *everything* is a socket-head cap screw - the Wiha T-handle set is the definitive choice. Well balanced, strong, the important short hex on the handle end for when you need the gronk. Still lots of room for improvement in those however.
If you want to spin your T-handle hex wrenches, then go for some of the Park Tool sliding T-handles that have a spinning sleeve included. Also, the Bondhus T-handles spin well because they have those heavy welded steel bar handles that give a centrifugal effect, and they're balanced, but they only have one driver tip. As a part-time cycle mechanic, my tool chest has a whole drawer devoted to hex and torx tools, including L-wrenches, T-handles, sliding T-handles, Y-wrenches, screwdrivers and folding sets, plus all the 1/4" and 3/8" hex and torx socket bits in my socket drawer and all the 1/4" screwdriver bits in my screwdriver drawer - and they all get used!
Your comments about tool marking are well taken. Very few tools have decent markings. As a GenX'r whose eyes are starting to fade a bit, I use a couple of marking schemes.
For plastic handles with molded in markings, I use an oil based paint pen, the kind w the rattle ball inside, to fill the molded indentations w a contrasting color and wipe off the excess w a paper towel. This works well on engraved metal too, depemding on the depth. If the excess doesn't come right off, I use 1000 grit sandpaper. These markings can be strengthened by applying clear coat from a touch-up vial after drying.
Another useful marking tool is heat shrink tubing, which can be placed on handles in different colors and stripes. I use the tubing lined with glue to hold tight.
A third option which is less formal is to write on the tool w yellow ink from a Markzall marker, the type that rattles and has a squeeze bulb to moderate ink flow. They write on metal but still chip away over time if in an impact zone.
Lastly, I have a label maker with 1/2" wide tapes in different colors. Sometimes they need to be warmed up to stick well.
Love the channel! Chip out!
I really like the bondhus t handles because they are really super robust. Also the pb swiss t handle is nice. Both the set and the bit adapter. But I've hear that the t handle bit adapter breaks easily but I don't want to test it.
The Bondhus are by far the strongest t-handle I’ve used.
You can't beat the Bondhus solid handle T handles. I've done horrible things to them, even the ball end models. Never broken one. I have 3 5mms in different places at work. Always need one.
I like the PB Swiss T handles as well but the price just kinda turns me off a little.
Hey Doc , Just received the Knipex needle nose combo pliers the 145mm ones . I must have watched your videos about them 10 times . They are really great . I can see them being my go to all around pliers .
Hope you and your family had a wonderful Thanksgiving … Thanks for the videos …
Check out the sliding t-handles from PB Swiss. Not as comfortable but dramatically more useful.
I actually really like the harbor freight long shank ball allen sockets. Ive never used t handle since i work on cars mostly, i always have a ratchet, cordless ratchet, or cordless impact whether its an anvil style or 1/4 hex style with socket adapters. The ball allens just make everything so much easier since you dont always have to be straight on it, because sometimes you cant be. The ball allens do break easier on stubbon fasteners though, which is why the harbor freight with lifetime warranty are so useful, though ive only broke one of the smaller ones. Never had issues with fitment using them either. I do have craftsman and husky short shank allen sockets i use a lot as well. I just find the socket style ones easier for me than the keys or multi kits like your milwaukee ones. Though those kits do come in handy when you're not sure which size it is and access/space isnt an issue.
I gave my son the same Craftsman set i bought for him years years ago.
I set him up with USA Craftsman tools when he started at a new job running Dyno cells testing emission components. Full polished wrenches, sockets, ratchets, etc.
A few Snap On tools, 3/8 flex head, ratcheting screwdrivers, socket bit set and a couple more i dont remember.
Edit to add, a Milwaukee fuel 1/4" driver and drill set. A Snap On screwer driver set.
Man I'd take a black permanent marker or a black paint marker and go over the size on those old craftsmen T-handles. And just brush the top of the numbers. 7/32 for example. Anyhow just a thought! Also I really like the Bondhus T handle Allen wrenches.
I don't really care how easy the sizes are to see. Usually I don't know what size bolt I need to turn, so I start guessing based on what looks close until I pick the right one. I used to have a cheap HF set in Metric and SAE but got rid of them because they were so flimsy they twisted with a little force. Now I use my Williams ratcheting T-handle and sets of milwaukee hex and torx bits. It turns so smooth as you've noted in your review, it almost fidget worthy.
I'm waiting for one of you UA-cam guys to find out about the Eight Tools taper ball ends and try some out. They are really mind blowing when a taper ball end can match a straight hex for going to proper torque.
I’ve never been a fan on the t-handle hex drivers. To me something like the 3/32 doesn’t have enough torsional strength to be useful. Of course there is the short end of the t-handle but at that point I prefer the Wiha extended length hex key sets and if I’m really feeling fancy go for the 1/4” drive hex sockets. Love the content!
Good talk Doc.
I really dig L keys and was wondering when will you give them a shine.
Got the Wera's Hex metric set and they are just incredible, so precise and with almost not play between the bolt/screw and the tool.
I also got an extendable, removal bit-holder ratcheting L key by Total.
although this tool is limited to small jobs, they are really handy and so versatile and inexpensive.
I mean, for these jobs when you have to apply that extra torque without going crazy, these are perfect for the job and for EDC generally.
I love using a t handle when I can but u can’t use them 100% of the time. I got a tool from craftsman that converts a regular allen key into a t handle one. great too keep in your tool bag.
I love the snap on set
Check the Wiha T handles. They make the Stihl T-27. Perfect balance but no driver in handle.
I have 3 T Handle Powewrbuilt sets on my workbench. Metric, SAE and Torx. The T handle slides so you can also use it as an L handle. For tool bags I have the Wera color coded L type. The Powerbuilt have a sleeve that spins over the shaft and the size is clearly marked. I'm pretty sure they make these for Park Tool.
I mostly use Wera Hex-plus of various sizes and lengths, at least for removal, as I've had everything else cam out. I find that I can get enough torque with various bit handles, and then I don't need to take all the t-handle wrenches around with me.
i have a set of metric and sae bent wire T. all the writing is worn off, theyre ok, but i want a set of the T current styles. one of the main things i use them on is grain bin auger gears. i would like to see the false side of the T , with a brass cap. so i can tap the allen deep into the allen head. and break it loose. right now i use alot of the 3/8 ratchet socket style. using a long extension to tap it deep.
Cut off the end to get a new working end, especially if old/worn (not for ball end obviously)
Parktool make a great style of tool for this
Buy a labeller or use a soldering iron to burn the size in. I'm going to label all my tools soon
Put some heat shrink on them to give some grip
I'd be interested in your thoughts on Park tools t handle Allen keys. Allows for L shape and T shape. (Speaking of working on bikes)
And a nail polish paint dot or colored electrical tape would work well for easy distinguishing of sizes
You should check out the Ares Thandle Spinner sets. I think they will pretty well be what you’re after.
Thanks for the comment. I've looked at those Ares, but they command PB Swiss prices. Maybe someday.
I have some of the Wera T handles just because the size is easy to read on top of the handle. Beta and PB Swiss have ones with Hex on both sides of the head but the bar and the top can slide left and right. Maybe the USAG 280 is the one you are looking for because the head is symmetrical and doesn't slide
the length does matter, just like the length of some drill bits matter if you need to come at a shallow angle in between things. For bikes, there are times when a long allen is better than a short one because the angle of approach. And odd as it seems a long shaft and even a long drill bit can hit that angle. For an example, you need to drill through a stud so you need a hearty drill bit BUT you also need the drill plus the bit to fit inside the 15 in space. It's actually better to come in with a longer drill bit and then your angle can actual be more straight through the 2x4 to run the romex. Long even matters on the L type. some L shaped allens might have as much as 2 inches on the business end so it can go OVER bolts. Although 1 - 1.5 is good and many of my stuff, I could do even shorter. When you need it, you need it.
another method is to color with a semi-permanent marker the size marking
even better, use nail enamel/polish. 😏
We need em all, I use em all. I personally don’t like Allen wrenches however. But if they’re made with female Allen’s then we have to have the tool. But especially the tiny tiny sizes are absolutely not fun
That’s impressive u have had that loose set craftsmen ( gray and black molding to hold em) for thirty years. As someone who checks cleans and keeps my tools and sockets after each project etc, I can honestly say that those type
Of sets don’t last but a couple projects for me. I Lose em all the time. If there’s one tool that bothers me it’s that set cuz for some reason I can’t keep track of it.
though the issue here is "readability" of sizes which you know some "cheap" sockets also seem to suffer from (laser engraving) I guess spend the time to "stamp?" the size in a high contrast scheme....
especially if you try to "wash" the size markings with a paint thinner or acetone on your new craftman T handles does the size markings get erased?
proto muilt bit ratchet driver. Answers all questions I think.
Check out flag handle hex wrenches precision work. There are better balanced T handles for spinning applications such a slide T handles
The T-handles are great, but it seems like every time I need to use the 'handle-end' of the drive it can't go deep enough in whatever I am dealing with (like, the jaws on a lathe, or in some other pocket in a machine) and I have to grind plastic off to use them. The longer you make the handle end the more off-balance they become, so I don't know what the solution is.
The drive end being long gives you more opportunity to file a blunt end off to 'sharpen' it.
Wiha is the best hex tools, all of them are stamped that they conform to ISO / DIN standards, although they do 2 kinds, and one is stamped and one is not
What no sliding T handle Allen's
A question about the T handle tools. Is it one piece of hex under the molded handle or two separate pieces?
These are all one piece. Just an L bend. Would actually be more expensive and less strong if two pieces. There are some, however.
thanks for answering.
Use a spinner handle with some long bits instead...
Bondhus is king