Definitely agree! Wrist stability is definitely an easy way to help reduce injury risk and improve your climbing, especially since they are so closely connected to our success on the wall ;) Thanks for the comment, and sweet videos on your channel as well!
In all gyms I've been people jump straight to the climbing... I don't know how they don't get injured... Or maybe they do and are no longer there to tell the tale :D
I recently injured my wrist climbing and I'm gonna try those to recover. Thanks for all your great videos, love your science-based approach to training, I've learned a lot thanks to your channel !
@@HoopersBeta Least I can do for all the great knowledge I am getting. (By the way Tai Lopez has totally ruined the word "knowledge" for me and every time I write it I hear his stupid voice in my head. "KnOwLeDgE!").
Sorry to hear about your wrist but glad this is helpful! I always believe that information is powerful so knowing more can make you feel more comfortable with your ability to heal and recover!
I recently hurt my wrist when I fell and I am almost 100% sure that I have a ttfc injury in my right wrist. I am about a week out from when I injured it and it is feeling a lot better, at what point should I start doing these workouts to recover and strengthen? Thank you, your videos are very informative.
I injured my left wrist while bouldering 5 days ago and it's quite depressing to think I won't be able to boulder again for potentially weeks. These exercises give me a bit of hope though so thanks!
Same here..it’s slowly getting better after 8 weeks now. But I also work as a farmer and have no time to rest much. Wish you all the best and cheers from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Thanks for the tips! I injured my right tfcc while climbing about a year and a half ago, and it still has not healed properly ( I suspect my work as an artist that draws a lot does not help). Last month I injured my left wrist as well. Going to try these exercices and looking forward to part2 !
Thanks for the great video! I just also watched your TFCC video, which was very informative. I'm a pretty avid climber and I've had an ulnar sided wrist injury for awhile now, since Sept. 2019. After watching your video I'm fairly certain it's a TFCC extension injury. Are there any particular exercises that are suited specifically for the extension TFCC injury? Thanks in advance and really appreciate these videos!
Awesome, glad you found it helpful! So in general if one is suffering more of an extension injury at the TFCC, that means your wrist is likely more prone to radial deviation moments. To combat this, we need to work on the strength and stability of our ulnar deviators to help prevent this. The Extensor Carpi Ulnaris is the muscle responsible for ulnar deviation, so there are a few methods. *Keep in mind, doing this will compress the TFCC so if these irritate your symptoms, discontinue* - Wrist extension *with* ulnar deviation (start with a theraband, work into free weights) - ulnar deviation using either a hammer/bar or a flexbar from theraband - knuckle planks with a forward and backwards tilt to generate proprioception and control of both ulnar and radial deviators. (this information is not meant to replace a full evaluation of your injury so should be performed at your own risk :)
im not sure if this will help me in muay thai but wrist stability is very important when punching to prevent injuries, i hope these exercises will help me
Just in time! Which of the exercises is best suited for TFCC injuries? I'm in the last stretch of recovering from a golfer's elbow and I think that one of the things that irritated the wrist was the weighted eccentric pronation/supination. It's very hard to go from one injury to another and I really need the right exercise to help the TFCC. Thank you very much! Love your videos and learned a lot!
Awesome! I'm glad that these videos are helping. Thanks for tuning in! The irony is that by having pain going through supination/pronation, you will probably develop weakness there overtime which will need to be corrected, BUT the catch is obvious, you have to do the motion. My philosophy on that is to always start with small and slow motions as they are safer. Working into deeper motions will create more load on the TFCC and can re-aggravate the tissue. For more advice on TFCC please see my other video and let me know if you have any follow up questions!
Hi, thanks for this video, you mentioned in the video that there are two reasons why one might feel instability, as someone who is hypermobile how does this change the advice and the exercises you mentioned? Thanks
What should I do if my wrist is popping when doing these exercises (they pop when I just rotate them too). Especially with "Eccentric wrist to finger curls" at both ends of the motion. It even happens when I do them with no weight, albeit less.
I have a compression TFCC injury. Which of these exercises are specifically for recovering of the *compression* one, and which are more for the extension injury?
Thanks so much for this! How many times a week would you recommend these exercises? I'm thinking twice a week? Also, I have hyper mobile joints - for the last few months my left wrist has been popping/sliding out of position on certain holds (I can't control it in the moment, it feels weird but doesn't hurt), and now I experience soreness after climbing if I push my limits. Will these exercises help with that? Do you have any additional recommendations? I've been resting and icing for the time being. I appreciate it!! :)
Ideally.... none? But I suppose that depends on what's exactly causing the discomfort/pain. I tend to be on the slightly more conservative side in this case with 0-1 being more in the ideal range and up to 2 being tolerable. But that's so subjective and can vary based on what a 2/10 means for each person.
Hey I know u posted this a while ago and doubt I’ll get responded to but I’m just curious how often should I be doing these? And like sets x reps, I don’t really need anything exact just a general idea to make sure I’m not doing them to often or not often enough to get results
We try to monitor most comments when we can! :) As a gentle rule of them, the easier (or lower intensity) something is, the higher the frequency *can* be. The opposite can be true, higher intensity, lower frequency. Think: walking versus sprinting. Or, bench press at your 100% max, vs bench press at your 20% max. If the purpose is to improve strength, the intensity needs to be higher, so the frequency will be a bit lower (such as two to three times a week). Sets and reps can very more based on the exercise and it's goal, but generally I don't like exceptionally high rep counts because they just eat up too much time and become a bit inefficient haha. But that also depends on your goals :)
@@HoopersBeta Gotcha thank you for the useful information! Would it also be true that you should avoid high intensity sets while you have an injury? Would low intensity be acceptable or should I avoid them all together
It likely depends on the current severity and chronicity. Pure rest isn't always the solution so perhaps just lowering the intensity is a good idea but it's hard for me not to say that, that may be an incomplete prescription. Appropriate loading, stretching, monitoring of aggravating factors, etc. would be a more complete prescription.
Thanks alot for the tips! My wrists started to hurt when I got closer to 6C - 7 and started to get worried I messed something up in there permanently. Probably doesnt help that I use the PC alot and play alot of guitar aswell. Any tips on when I should start doing these exercises? Should I wait for all pain symptoms to go away or start when the pain is just minor?
The additions of those activities can definitely exacerbate wrist problems. If you can do lower level exercises without pain then you can start earlier, otherwise yes don't do the exercises if they cause or add to your pain.
Hey, facing the same problem on 6B in my right wrist. And I also am so much on the PC and play guitar haha. Also ordered the WirstWidget. How are you after 9 months?
I've been climbing for a long time, mostly moderate trad and got a hangboard recently. I've started having issues with my left wrist slipping/disengaging when I do dead hangs, especially on small holds. It's like it pops out a little and extends. When I go for a pullup, my wrist can get stuck in this extended position, and it can't bend properly. It's usually not painful, but it seems bad. I found your wrist videos looking for a way to build strength in my wrist to hopefully be able to get back on my hangboard without worrying about injury. Question: are there certain exercises from this more targeted set that you would recommend to strengthen against this type of instability?
What do close chain and open chain mean? Love your videos BTW. Also - Would be great to see something on the principles of how to put together a basic workout routine. There are loads of exercises out there but knowing what to do with a finite amount of time is quite daunting! For example (my example! 😃) if I can fit in 3 climbing sessions a week at the wall and 3 conditioning sessions a week (I.e. 1 hour before work!), how best to optimise those 3 hrs of conditioning in the week and choose which exercise to do?! 🤯😀 Thank again for the content and educating!
Open chain is essentially means the distal limb (think of the hand) can move freely. It has "open" movement. Think of a bicep curl. Or, think of dumbbell bench press. Closed chain means that the distal limb cannot, or that it is fixed to an object or stationary. Think of a push up. The ground doesn't moved, so your distal limb (hand) is fixed to the stationary ground.
I recently did the test and it seems like I have a TFCC injury. After resting and widgeting for about a week I started to do some of the excercises here. Limited ROM in flexion and extension and at this moment I seem to have pain (around a 2-3) when doing supinated radial and ulnar deviations and weight bearing in supination. Should I continue doing these excercises or take a break?
so, my wrists are really weird. I can do those kinds of workouts with light weights, but need todo like 100 reps or so, to feel anything, which probably leans that the weights are too light to strengthen my wrists? but once i try using more weight, my wrists start hurting and the movement isn‘t possible at all. The problem i have and why i‘m trying to stabilize my wrists is, that i can‘t hold any sloper or open hand crimps, because every time i try, my wrist kind of pops out(?).. been trying to stabilize my wrists for 6 months now and don‘t see any.. just recently hurt my wrists again while warming up on a V1-V2.. because the last hold turnes out to not be one you can hold with a half crimp.. Any idea what the problem might be? I also tried stretching, but i don‘t have any stretch feeling in my wrists from stretching.. i rather get some weird wrist pain from it. Having these problems since i started climbing about 2 years ago, nothing seems to help
A few thoughts, if your wrist is unstable, you likely don't need to stretch it as that may just be adding to the issue. The level of your instability you are describing sounds like there may possibly be some structural instability, have you had a consultation or assessment with a medical professional? Yes, if you can do 100 reps to feel burn, it's not adding strength, that's just aerobic training (endurance). Once you increase weight, you may not have the stability to do so which creates pain and causes you to be unable to lift the weight. Overall, if you haven't had a professional evaluation, I urge you to get one so you can develop a plan to take care of what seems like a troublesome injury.
Hooper's Beta okay, so i‘ve seen a doctor today, and will get an x-ray done next week. He just looked at my wrist and told me, that my ulnar is sticking out unusually far, which might be the cause for the problem? He isn‘t a climbing doctor, as those aren‘t really around here, so i‘d like to ask you, if this could be the reason in your opinion. Can a slightly misaligned ulnar cause a tfcc injury?🤔
Is it sticking out because it's hypermobile? If you get a lot of movement at your ulna and there is instability yes it can cause an injury. Also, if the alignment is causing decreased range and your ulnar deviation is limited because of it's alignment, also possible. I'm sure there are other reasons, but I'm most curious if it's unstable.
@@HoopersBeta No, to lay bricks again pain free! Been in the trade for 20yrs and 6 weeks back the injury occurred whilst working, since then worn a splint taken naproxen and co-domal and a cortisone injection and still in pain, stopping me from working.
Ahh sorry to hear that. Well yeah, you definitely are going to need to work on your pinch grip to be able to hold onto those bricks! The wrist extension reverse curls with a bar can be really helpful too especially since you'll find yourself in that position a lot, I can imagine.
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the advice, will definately be trying those! In your experience is it possible after such an injury to get back to full strength and prevent re-injury?
Thanks for the video! Should I do any wrist exercises if I feel a minor pain when rotating my wrist? Or should I wait until I do not feel any pain and then start exercises? Just want to get back to the climbing wall sooner
How long have you been resting and/or feeling the pain? You want to keep the wrist moving in healthy manners that don't cause or aggravate your symptoms, but it's hard to say what specifically do to without a lot more information.
Hooper's Beta I have been resting for only 4 days since my last climbing session. I started feeling dull pain the following day after the session where I worked on a hard problem that involved a Gaston move. All other movements except for rotation are painless. I was tempted to do pull ups yesterday as I do not feel pain when just hanging but I thought I might wait until the pain is gone
Hopefully it has resolved by now, but if it has not, you may need to start incorporating some of those exercises. It seems like that particular move probably placed stress on a certain area or muscle that produced your discomfort and it should just go away with not reproducing that move but if not it could be indicative of more generalized weakness which can be helped with the exercises in Part 1 & 2.
Thanks for the tips. I just started training with steel clubs and I know those work wrist stability. But do you think I should throw in some of these exercises as well?
I have a question about an exercise I did at a climbing gym before. You had the big metal bar and a rope attached to it. On the end of the rope you put some weight. You slowly bring the weight up by alternating twisting your wrists up. Is this a helpful exercise? It feels really nice for your forearms too.
It's a decent forearm training activity. The fact that you can change the weight makes it progressive and if it feels good to you, that's the most important factor :)
I noticed wrist pain on the ulnar side of my left hand after a climbing session last night. I was working a problem that involved an open palm press and I climbed afterwards on other problems but did not notice pain until the end of my session. The lift test is what was painful but I did not have pain during the compression/grind and chair test. I ordered a wrist widget (I am taping for right now) and would like to start stability training as soon as possible - when do you think I could start doing exercises?
At minimum just wait a few days. If the symptoms have calmed down then you can start with some basic exercises and slowly work your way up. Avoid exercises that cause pain.
I totally think not enough people warm up and train their wrists! I do all these and love the wrist rotations! Nice vid, just subbed! 👏👏
Definitely agree! Wrist stability is definitely an easy way to help reduce injury risk and improve your climbing, especially since they are so closely connected to our success on the wall ;) Thanks for the comment, and sweet videos on your channel as well!
In all gyms I've been people jump straight to the climbing... I don't know how they don't get injured... Or maybe they do and are no longer there to tell the tale :D
Damn this guy does each scene in one take. He really knows what he's talking about. A real professional.
I recently injured my wrist climbing and I'm gonna try those to recover. Thanks for all your great videos, love your science-based approach to training, I've learned a lot thanks to your channel !
Wanted to let you know this was super helpful for me. Hurt my wrist on a sloper on Sunday and have been trying to figure it out. I appreciate it!
Awesome, glad to hear it :)
Thanks so much for this. Glad I found a channel specifically for climbers.
Thanks for joining the HB family! Appreciate your support.
@@HoopersBeta Least I can do for all the great knowledge I am getting. (By the way Tai Lopez has totally ruined the word "knowledge" for me and every time I write it I hear his stupid voice in my head. "KnOwLeDgE!").
Just had my physio confirming TFCC today... Thanks for the videos !!
Thank you so mutch for your video's! I injured my right wrist a few days ago and I felt so insecure.
Sorry to hear about your wrist but glad this is helpful! I always believe that information is powerful so knowing more can make you feel more comfortable with your ability to heal and recover!
I recently hurt my wrist when I fell and I am almost 100% sure that I have a ttfc injury in my right wrist. I am about a week out from when I injured it and it is feeling a lot better, at what point should I start doing these workouts to recover and strengthen? Thank you, your videos are very informative.
i think you should be good now, its been about 2 years
@@kiler2deathhahahha
I injured my left wrist while bouldering 5 days ago and it's quite depressing to think I won't be able to boulder again for potentially weeks. These exercises give me a bit of hope though so thanks!
Same here..it’s slowly getting better after 8 weeks now. But I also work as a farmer and have no time to rest much. Wish you all the best and cheers from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Thanks for the tips! I injured my right tfcc while climbing about a year and a half ago, and it still has not healed properly ( I suspect my work as an artist that draws a lot does not help). Last month I injured my left wrist as well. Going to try these exercices and looking forward to part2 !
Definitely, all that movement of the wrist can hinder some of the healing. Hope the initial exercises help and yeah, part2 should be coming out soon!
Thank you for the exercises! Can you provide some guidance on how many reps and sets to do on each exercise and frequency of exercises?
Thanks for the great video! I just also watched your TFCC video, which was very informative. I'm a pretty avid climber and I've had an ulnar sided wrist injury for awhile now, since Sept. 2019. After watching your video I'm fairly certain it's a TFCC extension injury. Are there any particular exercises that are suited specifically for the extension TFCC injury? Thanks in advance and really appreciate these videos!
I have the same issue. Interested in the answer!
Awesome, glad you found it helpful! So in general if one is suffering more of an extension injury at the TFCC, that means your wrist is likely more prone to radial deviation moments. To combat this, we need to work on the strength and stability of our ulnar deviators to help prevent this. The Extensor Carpi Ulnaris is the muscle responsible for ulnar deviation, so there are a few methods. *Keep in mind, doing this will compress the TFCC so if these irritate your symptoms, discontinue*
- Wrist extension *with* ulnar deviation (start with a theraband, work into free weights)
- ulnar deviation using either a hammer/bar or a flexbar from theraband
- knuckle planks with a forward and backwards tilt to generate proprioception and control of both ulnar and radial deviators.
(this information is not meant to replace a full evaluation of your injury so should be performed at your own risk :)
You're awesome. Thank you so much!
Any suggestion on the number of reps for each exercise?
im not sure if this will help me in muay thai but wrist stability is very important when punching to prevent injuries, i hope these exercises will help me
Just in time! Which of the exercises is best suited for TFCC injuries?
I'm in the last stretch of recovering from a golfer's elbow and I think that one of the things that irritated the wrist was the weighted eccentric pronation/supination. It's very hard to go from one injury to another and I really need the right exercise to help the TFCC.
Thank you very much! Love your videos and learned a lot!
Awesome! I'm glad that these videos are helping. Thanks for tuning in! The irony is that by having pain going through supination/pronation, you will probably develop weakness there overtime which will need to be corrected, BUT the catch is obvious, you have to do the motion. My philosophy on that is to always start with small and slow motions as they are safer. Working into deeper motions will create more load on the TFCC and can re-aggravate the tissue. For more advice on TFCC please see my other video and let me know if you have any follow up questions!
@@HoopersBeta Thank you! I watched the video and left a more detailed question over there :)
Hi, thanks for this video, you mentioned in the video that there are two reasons why one might feel instability, as someone who is hypermobile how does this change the advice and the exercises you mentioned? Thanks
What should I do if my wrist is popping when doing these exercises (they pop when I just rotate them too). Especially with "Eccentric wrist to finger curls" at both ends of the motion. It even happens when I do them with no weight, albeit less.
I have a compression TFCC injury. Which of these exercises are specifically for recovering of the *compression* one, and which are more for the extension injury?
Would love hooper to comment on this...
How many times a week is the best for this exercise?
Thanks so much for this! How many times a week would you recommend these exercises? I'm thinking twice a week? Also, I have hyper mobile joints - for the last few months my left wrist has been popping/sliding out of position on certain holds (I can't control it in the moment, it feels weird but doesn't hurt), and now I experience soreness after climbing if I push my limits. Will these exercises help with that? Do you have any additional recommendations? I've been resting and icing for the time being. I appreciate it!! :)
What sort of pain level is okay/recommended for these exercises out of 10, say? Thanks Hooper!
Ideally.... none? But I suppose that depends on what's exactly causing the discomfort/pain. I tend to be on the slightly more conservative side in this case with 0-1 being more in the ideal range and up to 2 being tolerable. But that's so subjective and can vary based on what a 2/10 means for each person.
Hey I know u posted this a while ago and doubt I’ll get responded to but I’m just curious how often should I be doing these? And like sets x reps, I don’t really need anything exact just a general idea to make sure I’m not doing them to often or not often enough to get results
We try to monitor most comments when we can! :)
As a gentle rule of them, the easier (or lower intensity) something is, the higher the frequency *can* be. The opposite can be true, higher intensity, lower frequency. Think: walking versus sprinting. Or, bench press at your 100% max, vs bench press at your 20% max. If the purpose is to improve strength, the intensity needs to be higher, so the frequency will be a bit lower (such as two to three times a week). Sets and reps can very more based on the exercise and it's goal, but generally I don't like exceptionally high rep counts because they just eat up too much time and become a bit inefficient haha. But that also depends on your goals :)
@@HoopersBeta Gotcha thank you for the useful information! Would it also be true that you should avoid high intensity sets while you have an injury? Would low intensity be acceptable or should I avoid them all together
If you're already incorporating ring dips in your general training, wouldn't that have the same stabilizing factor for the wrists as knuckle pushups?
Hi Dr Hooper, would you recommend stopping climbing when you have Tennis Elbow or just reducing the intensity? Fantastic videos. Thank you very much.
It likely depends on the current severity and chronicity. Pure rest isn't always the solution so perhaps just lowering the intensity is a good idea but it's hard for me not to say that, that may be an incomplete prescription. Appropriate loading, stretching, monitoring of aggravating factors, etc. would be a more complete prescription.
Thanks alot for the tips! My wrists started to hurt when I got closer to 6C - 7 and started to get worried I messed something up in there permanently. Probably doesnt help that I use the PC alot and play alot of guitar aswell.
Any tips on when I should start doing these exercises? Should I wait for all pain symptoms to go away or start when the pain is just minor?
The additions of those activities can definitely exacerbate wrist problems. If you can do lower level exercises without pain then you can start earlier, otherwise yes don't do the exercises if they cause or add to your pain.
Hey, facing the same problem on 6B in my right wrist. And I also am so much on the PC and play guitar haha. Also ordered the WirstWidget. How are you after 9 months?
I've been climbing for a long time, mostly moderate trad and got a hangboard recently. I've started having issues with my left wrist slipping/disengaging when I do dead hangs, especially on small holds. It's like it pops out a little and extends. When I go for a pullup, my wrist can get stuck in this extended position, and it can't bend properly. It's usually not painful, but it seems bad. I found your wrist videos looking for a way to build strength in my wrist to hopefully be able to get back on my hangboard without worrying about injury. Question: are there certain exercises from this more targeted set that you would recommend to strengthen against this type of instability?
Do you think clubbells are a good addition to wrist strength? Any routines we should do with them?
Some people like them. It's not something I have any experience with so I can't really comment. Sorry!
What do close chain and open chain mean? Love your videos BTW. Also - Would be great to see something on the principles of how to put together a basic workout routine. There are loads of exercises out there but knowing what to do with a finite amount of time is quite daunting! For example (my example! 😃) if I can fit in 3 climbing sessions a week at the wall and 3 conditioning sessions a week (I.e. 1 hour before work!), how best to optimise those 3 hrs of conditioning in the week and choose which exercise to do?! 🤯😀 Thank again for the content and educating!
Open chain is essentially means the distal limb (think of the hand) can move freely. It has "open" movement. Think of a bicep curl. Or, think of dumbbell bench press. Closed chain means that the distal limb cannot, or that it is fixed to an object or stationary. Think of a push up. The ground doesn't moved, so your distal limb (hand) is fixed to the stationary ground.
@@HoopersBeta Got it. Thanks for the answer. Makes sense! 👍
I recently did the test and it seems like I have a TFCC injury. After resting and widgeting for about a week I started to do some of the excercises here. Limited ROM in flexion and extension and at this moment I seem to have pain (around a 2-3) when doing supinated radial and ulnar deviations and weight bearing in supination. Should I continue doing these excercises or take a break?
so, my wrists are really weird. I can do those kinds of workouts with light weights, but need todo like 100 reps or so, to feel anything, which probably leans that the weights are too light to strengthen my wrists? but once i try using more weight, my wrists start hurting and the movement isn‘t possible at all. The problem i have and why i‘m trying to stabilize my wrists is, that i can‘t hold any sloper or open hand crimps, because every time i try, my wrist kind of pops out(?).. been trying to stabilize my wrists for 6 months now and don‘t see any.. just recently hurt my wrists again while warming up on a V1-V2.. because the last hold turnes out to not be one you can hold with a half crimp.. Any idea what the problem might be? I also tried stretching, but i don‘t have any stretch feeling in my wrists from stretching.. i rather get some weird wrist pain from it. Having these problems since i started climbing about 2 years ago, nothing seems to help
A few thoughts, if your wrist is unstable, you likely don't need to stretch it as that may just be adding to the issue. The level of your instability you are describing sounds like there may possibly be some structural instability, have you had a consultation or assessment with a medical professional? Yes, if you can do 100 reps to feel burn, it's not adding strength, that's just aerobic training (endurance). Once you increase weight, you may not have the stability to do so which creates pain and causes you to be unable to lift the weight.
Overall, if you haven't had a professional evaluation, I urge you to get one so you can develop a plan to take care of what seems like a troublesome injury.
Hooper's Beta okay, so i‘ve seen a doctor today, and will get an x-ray done next week. He just looked at my wrist and told me, that my ulnar is sticking out unusually far, which might be the cause for the problem? He isn‘t a climbing doctor, as those aren‘t really around here, so i‘d like to ask you, if this could be the reason in your opinion. Can a slightly misaligned ulnar cause a tfcc injury?🤔
Is it sticking out because it's hypermobile? If you get a lot of movement at your ulna and there is instability yes it can cause an injury. Also, if the alignment is causing decreased range and your ulnar deviation is limited because of it's alignment, also possible. I'm sure there are other reasons, but I'm most curious if it's unstable.
Excellent video! Currently trying to repair my tedonitis in the wrist and forearm. How would you devise a programme to get back to full grip strength?
Hope this helps with your tendon issues! Are you referring to grip strength with climbing? Or more classical like a handshake lol.
@@HoopersBeta No, to lay bricks again pain free! Been in the trade for 20yrs and 6 weeks back the injury occurred whilst working, since then worn a splint taken naproxen and co-domal and a cortisone injection and still in pain, stopping me from working.
Ahh sorry to hear that. Well yeah, you definitely are going to need to work on your pinch grip to be able to hold onto those bricks! The wrist extension reverse curls with a bar can be really helpful too especially since you'll find yourself in that position a lot, I can imagine.
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the advice, will definately be trying those! In your experience is it possible after such an injury to get back to full strength and prevent re-injury?
Thanks for the video! Should I do any wrist exercises if I feel a minor pain when rotating my wrist? Or should I wait until I do not feel any pain and then start exercises? Just want to get back to the climbing wall sooner
How long have you been resting and/or feeling the pain? You want to keep the wrist moving in healthy manners that don't cause or aggravate your symptoms, but it's hard to say what specifically do to without a lot more information.
Hooper's Beta I have been resting for only 4 days since my last climbing session. I started feeling dull pain the following day after the session where I worked on a hard problem that involved a Gaston move. All other movements except for rotation are painless. I was tempted to do pull ups yesterday as I do not feel pain when just hanging but I thought I might wait until the pain is gone
Hopefully it has resolved by now, but if it has not, you may need to start incorporating some of those exercises. It seems like that particular move probably placed stress on a certain area or muscle that produced your discomfort and it should just go away with not reproducing that move but if not it could be indicative of more generalized weakness which can be helped with the exercises in Part 1 & 2.
Thanks for the tips. I just started training with steel clubs and I know those work wrist stability. But do you think I should throw in some of these exercises as well?
Depends on your individual needs / strengths / weaknesses :) having strong /stable wrists certainly isn't a bad thing, though.
I havent injured my wrist and I really don't want to so i am gonna try this lol
Good call! Incorporating some training that can be considered "prehab" or stability based training is a great idea.
I have a question about an exercise I did at a climbing gym before. You had the big metal bar and a rope attached to it. On the end of the rope you put some weight. You slowly bring the weight up by alternating twisting your wrists up. Is this a helpful exercise? It feels really nice for your forearms too.
It's a decent forearm training activity. The fact that you can change the weight makes it progressive and if it feels good to you, that's the most important factor :)
I noticed wrist pain on the ulnar side of my left hand after a climbing session last night. I was working a problem that involved an open palm press and I climbed afterwards on other problems but did not notice pain until the end of my session. The lift test is what was painful but I did not have pain during the compression/grind and chair test. I ordered a wrist widget (I am taping for right now) and would like to start stability training as soon as possible - when do you think I could start doing exercises?
At minimum just wait a few days. If the symptoms have calmed down then you can start with some basic exercises and slowly work your way up. Avoid exercises that cause pain.
Is it OK to climb while wearing the wrist widget?
Yes that is fine :) Just don't let it become a crutch long term!
I was with you until you did thumbs up knuckle pushups.
Thnx u 🥹💜 everything about this vid is perfect 🌞