Reminds me off house bashing in the 1990 before I emigrated to Australia no battery tools then generator and leads and hammer Australia was nail guns and Routers keep the videos coming
They certainly are Mark👊and I was always a bit reluctant to embrace using them being traditionally trained and taught to mechanical fix , nearly everything. But like you say, they definitely assist in the carpentry process👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great video as always del, don’t normally comment but just wanted to say thanks for all the time and effort you put into them. Love your attention to detail and it’s so helpful you sharing your thought processes as so many seem to skip over the smaller steps. Cheers ben
I really appreciate you taking the time to comment Ben🤗Its always tricky to know how to format my videos, and ultimately, I want people to be able to follow and learn from them🤞Cheers Del
Thank you very much for your videos, Ive been binge watching lately. As a hobby woodworker I thought doing this kind of work in my home might have been easier but I've learnt its a different ball game to cutting dovetails in the workshop. You have helped me no end, your videos are very informative and you're a pleasure to watch.
Hi SD🖐You should have seen me back in the day dressed in a suit and tie, burning up the dance floor in the night clubs🤣Thanks for your comment bud 😎 Cheers Del
Same as Del your very lucky with the plaster's no snots left on the wall , was working with a mate a few weeks ago and he had a cordless chop saw , very impressed ideal for second fix no leads , great video 👍🇮🇪☘️😁👏👏
Hi John🖐I would have had a cordless mitre saw in a heartbeat, but I went for the mains one so I could plug it into the extractor which, in turn, switches on automatically like the cordless saw does not😬Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
New to your channel mate! Great video as I’m in the property renovation trade myself on a lot of social housing properties amongst other properties. Now I know why your channel is called the tall carpenter. Soon as you stood by the door fitting the arcs I immediately realised haha! 👍 take care. Marc
Hi Marc🖐Welcome to the channel bud, and it's great to have you watching🤩Yeah, I think this video in particular, has highlighted to many of my veiwers how tall I am when stood next to a 6'6" door opening😆Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter yes mate it sure was a wow moment haha! I do have a mate of mine who is 6ft 8”… great guy and I was taller than him in school but he obviously had a growth spurt ha! It’s nice to see a job that’s all brand new looking. Most of my work is on council housing here in Wolverhampton. They just don’t have the time, funds or care sometimes to allow you to do what needs to be done. I’ve been in the trade since I was 18… 32 now and I always like to keep up with other trades to keep my head above the rest and make sure my work stays at a high standard, which I think videos like this teach that standard which should be kept to! I’ll be binge watching your other videos now! Marc
@Marc Gray I know I'm lucky Marc to mostly do new work, but I've definitely done my share of carpentry on jobs like you describe😬Thanks again for watching👍
Hi Del, great video again. I always skirt a room in an anti-clockwise direction. You only ever need to scribe the right then which is easier on the chop saw.
That's pretty cheeky Lee🤩 I just cut from top to bottom on the mitre saw if doing opposite hand scribes👍Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
lol, just clocked that you are really tall when you were standing by the door. Thought it was a gimmick ,sorry loz. Always a pucka video, loads of catchin up to do after my heart attack. All the best, you do a great job
Hi Steve🖐Sorry to hear about your heart attack, and hope you are recovering well🤞Oh yeah, I am considered pretty tall, and do have to stoop slightly to get through a standard door opening😲Thanks for watching🤩Cheers Del
Again very informative...the main tip I'm taking away today is your "rolling technique" for gluing the architrave...Genius👌. I'm feeling very chuffed though in that I would do every step just as you do including keeping pins and nails to the absolute minimum. I curse so many lads that have over done nails when I need to remove skirting for flooring...modern adhesives are so good there's very little need for anything else...
Sounds like we are on the same page with the nails Brendan🤔and I also despair when I see skirtings and architraves 'machine gunned' full of nails when the adhesives, as you say, are so good👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers
I still do my architraves the old fashioned way in three pieces no glue. Nailed up with 18 gauge brad nailer. In Oz most of our archs and skirts are still pine. It is very hard to find that quick stick mitre glue. And when you do it is crap on pine. Skirts I nail as well. Most of us do. That polymer glue in other brands is available and boy does it stick. But at about $18 a tube it should do. The only time I use it is on steel frame homes where you don't really have a choice. Glue and a few hardened brads to hold until glue goes off. I do my skirt scribes different as well. I don't use a sliding mitre saw very often at all. And I hardly ever lay the mitre saw over. When I scribe my corners I just plumb cut 45 degrees on the 90. Then I cut the whole scribe with a coping saw on that size skirt. Offer the cut up. Scribe any gap with coping saw or sander depending on how much. Cut to length and fit. That MDF would be nicer to work with. Some of the pine I fit if you didn't fill it full of nails to hold it in place it would be impossible to get it fairly straight. Didn't see any of that sort of archs and skirts in UK before I left. It was all pine complete with knots. Usually ogee moulded. 6 inch skirts and 2 inch archs. 1 inch thick. All nailed on with ovals and lost heads. Then go round with the Shellac pot and treat all the knots. Looks like even the UK is following the American trends now.
Hi Dave🖐Much of your comment also describes the EXACT way I did my architraves and skirting for many, many years😁And, yes, MDF is great to work with, but has no character and is not always suitable for every job🤔Great comment as always bud, and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@liamjenkins82 The only mitre glue I have found in Oz for MDF. As used in US and UK. Is a CA glue made by Sudal. Sudal 2C is a two part glue and activator. But it doesn't work very well on pine. Better for the MDF. I also pin my corners. These days with a 23 guage pin nailer.
@@davetaylor4741 oh nice I'll give that a go cheers. I've been avoiding pine, mostly for price and splitting. I'm a self renovator guy ( Boiley by trade) I might have to bite the bullet and get a little nailer gun. No problems mitre and coping skirt, but all of my mitre joints have a shrinkage gap within months. It's a shame. Fill and repaint. Appreciate the reply. I'll try that stuff out.
Quick tip for newbie’s if I may? If you are new to architraves, make 2 45 cuts. The first oversized, then come back and refine the cut by nibbling it. This way, you are drastically reducing the risk of cutting off too much. And do the 45 first then cut to length. Sorry if I’m teaching anyone to suck lemons. Excellent video mate 👍
Your teaching people how to be extremely inefficient 🤦 Unless it's an old house you cut all the arks the same length & always cut them as a pair which cuts the work in half 👌
@@pauldavies7251 what I mean is, if it is your first time or maybe a diyer, you’ll worry less about speed and efficiency and more about accuracy. You can still cut in pairs. Once you get the hang of it, then you can do it the way we do with 1 45 cut and 1 length cut
@@pauldavies7251100% agree, I cut all my jambs followed by a mitre on one end of the head. Bash out all the jambs then mark and hang the heads in one go. The method shown in this video is borderline joinery shop accurate, on a price I ain’t got time for this
nice one. when scribing skirting internal corners i usually have a piece of skirting about 300mm long with a scribe already cut each end. hold it against the fixed piece and mark the piece you want to cut. Which gives you a scribe line you can cut with a hand saw and it will fit tight.
Hi there🖐Before mitre saws were common place, that's EXACTLY how I used to mark my scribes, and it's still a great way of doing it, as, like you say, it's accurate and actually requires the same amount of cutting as using the mitre saw👍Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I never really embraced price work Craig, and I think that and a lack of proper training is the reason there is such poor standards on a lot of jobs nowadays😬Thanks for watching😎
If you scribe on the right, you can use the chop saw to take out the straight cut of the scribe when you put the blade upright, then just use a coping saw for the curved bit of the scribe. Its also set to the correct angle still. You can do it all on your chop saw bench.👍🏻
Hi Lee🖐I know what you're saying bud, and I don't do it that way for 2 reasons. Firstly, in my experience, the saw does not cut the same line when leant over at 45 degrees as it does when its at 90 degrees due to a tiny amount of play when its leant over, and secondly, cutting the straight part of the scribe with the saw as you describe doesn't work when I'm cutting the opposite hand scribe with the moulding facing out👍Thanks for your comment bud, and for watching😎Cheers Del
@@LeeTillbury True Lee, but if you lay out your skirting in a room with a full length on the back wall, inevitably, you will need to cut both hands of a scribe👍(if you're a pedant like me😁)
Hi Del. Great video. I do mostly the same as you, I can see clearly your plasters did a tidy job. Unfortunately here in Ireland 🇮🇪 to many people on price and very untidy. Like bellcasting at skirting level wiping skim fat at skirting level. Reveals way out of square. I back cut everything. Even my first piece 2 square ends back cut and set saw off 90 degrees so the top of the skirting is touching the corners of the wall. Most Reveals for external corners are always out of plumb aswell as square, so i lay my skirting down, draw a line up the back of it where it meets the Reveal return, check that line with my square, so often the bottom is longer on the wall, cut my 45s to longest point if you understand me. If very bad I'll get my battery planer and take a bit of the back of the skirting on smaller returns . So it gives me room to to play and get a beautiful 45 join on the outside. Good plaster is the very helpful. Done my own home , got to know a very tidy plaster, he had my skirting area top class.some different putting skirting on. Faster . No magic wand needed like some places I go to. 🤣. Looking forward to your next video Del👍🇮🇪
I know exactly the kind of plastering you describing Paul, and have also had to go to the same lengths as you to get my skirtings to fit, which is why I know how lucky I am to have such a great plasterer to follow👍Next video coming soon and thanks for watching bud🤩Cheers
What kind of floor covering is going in this house? In the US we hold the base trim 1/2 inch up from the floor for carpet or install the trim after vinyl. Also, nice to see coping being done properly !
Nice video! I live in a new build where everything is done in a rush, not too happy with the skirting in the bathroom as MDF and water do not go well together. So I’ll be taking them off and make them out of solid wood and copy the profile than no one will ever see the difference.
Hi Rob🖐Yeah, new builds go on MDF overdrive and just fit it everywhere, and as you have found out, its no good in a wet area😬Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice vid and tips again Del. I bought one of those DeWalt chop saws last year as they take up very little room compared to my larger Makita, got it for a very cheap price at Travis Perkins, like you say very accurate cuts with it.
Hi Gary🖐I only bought it as a bit of a punt, and didn't think it would be much good for only £140ex VAT, but its been really good, and like you say, super portable and accurate💪Thanks for watching😎Cheers
Excellent as always. If the plaster is proud of the door lining is it best to mark the plaster up to the depth of the the of the architrave and then knock a bit off? Thanks
Hi there🖐I don't do that as it can make a nasty line down the plaster work where its been cut back😬What I will do is place the architrave in position, mark all the way down the wall/plaster, put the architrave to one side, and then put another mark about 5mm inside that mark, and then take the plaster of from this mark, flush back to the lining. This will then cause the architrave to 'tilt' slightly in towards the lining, buy a little tickle of the mitre with a sharp block plane will get the joint spot on🤘Doing it this way also means there will be no step where the skirting meets the architrave👍Cheers Del
Lovely job the builder wants shot putting lovely doors and then cheap pencil round shirts and arcs, all high end fittings then spoil it with skirts an arcs
Keep em coming Del. Have you ever tried the grinder and flap disk for the scribes? Wouldn’t bother on those simple ones but for the fancy stuff it’s bang on
Hi there🖐Really, the plaster should be hacked back to be flush with the lining and the mitres adjusted/planed slightly to make them tight👍In reality, any gap between the lining and architrave will just be caulked up😉Cheers Del
Hi Dean🖐I know it's not right, but unless I'm doing heavy framing or roofing, I just wear walking type shoes😬These one are cheap from Sports Direct by Gelert called the 'Horizon' Lightweight and very comfy👍Cheers Del
Tons of ways to hang arcs. Fastest for me was cut all the jambs 2.1 with the mitre and head with mitre one side. Place the head of the arc on your margin marks and draw a line across the top in both corners, then spin the jambs upside down on the mitre and mark for length. Nail the jambs to your margin. Now spin the head upside down and line up the edge of the mitre on one side and mark the other side. Now simply cut the one remaining head on the mitre maybe a couple of mill long and squeeze the head between the jambs. Because you cut the head slightly long when you squeeze it between the jambs you have perfect mitres every time no need for mitre mate. The other advantage to this method is I can cut all the jambs for the whole house in one go followed by the head, then pin all the jambs and come back and do the heads. Nothing worse than having to spin your mitre saw every five minutes and it burns the clock. Like I said multiple ways to do arc sets but for me this is the fastest on price.
@Bricklayers World With Andy It's a beauty Andy👊(no cutting mankey old bits of wood covered in concrete though mate😬I know what you brickies are like😆🤗)
Thanks for that info Paul👍I should start collecting all the different names we have for the same thing in different parts of the world, as I think it would make a great video🤔Thanks for watching😎Cheers
I find it necessary to run a brush of PVA along the plaster first for best adhesion to the wall, i use stixall, the adhesive can dry into the plaster and after time de touch with expansion and contraction, great vid tho 👍
@@dalemoore11 not Toss, "PVA" applying sealers to new plaster for better adhesion is actually common knowledge, you would do it before tiling as well, the fresh plaster soaks a lot of the moisture before the adhesive dries. But hey, if your happy doing it your way, 👍😉
Hi Del, great video as always. Re the chops saw, was it just price and weight that led you down the Dewalt path? I remember in another video you talking about choosing another chop saw and we both had the same older type saw of this saw. Does this mean this was it's replacement? Or just to fill a gap? The older version (which I've had for years is pretty heavy to be lumping about as my years are going along....How do you get on cutting skirting that's too deep for the saw? Is it accurate enough to cut tilted to 45 cutting flat and then return to a true 90? Mine never seems to be perfectly accurate due to slight movement in the head as you push and pull? Did or are you considering a bigger bladed saw? Great contents as usual. Regards Brian.
Hi Brian🖐I bought this cheap little mitre saw as I was going to go down the cordless route with the DeWalt Flexvolt saw, (I'm already on that battery platfom), and I borrowed one to try of a buddy. After using it with my extractor, (which, because the saw was cordless, I had to start/stop manually each time I made a cut), I decided to go corded as when plugged into my extractor, it would start/stop automatically. What I found was EXCELLENT about the Flexvolt saw was its dust extraction, and I noticed that the cheap little mitre saw had a similar design dust port, so given that, plus its low price and weight, I went for it👊I have to say that I have been blown away at how good its been for such a cheap saw. Its accurate at 90° and laid over at 45° and has the same power as our old Elu/DeWalt saws. It doesn't cut quite as wide, but the depth of cut is the same. Overall, I'm very happy with it, and it's now my main mitre saw for all studwork/2nd fix. I'm sure it won't last as long as our old ones, but a the same price as a tank of diesel, if it only lasts 5 years it'll still be worth it😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter interesting. I might have a look at that one as the old dewalt/elu one is rather heavy to lug about the older i get. I'm a little reluctant to go down the battery version of the chop saw/ table saw route due to the costs and possible change of battery style for the manufacturer and then im left with a redundant saw(s). I have seen that saw but didn't think it was going to be any good, but as you rightly say ( and I'd not thought of it like a tank of diesel) its worth a punt! Thank you for the quick detailed deply. Keep up the great work. The videos are great for all to learn by
Excellent video as always. I always go around with to square off cuts of my baseboard and a 2 inch wide old chisel and scrape the excess drywall mud(plaster) out of the inside corners. I find that its is more efficient then finding and cutting each piece slightly out of square. Even on large houses it doesn't take me very long as I am also getting a cut list for my larger runs of base. I also always measure my copes from the long point of the miter instead of the face of the cope for larger runs I can measure out most of if not all of the room in one trip verse going back and forth several times. I find that the only time this is not accurate is when there are small returns into door casing or small jogs on outside corners(think less then 1ft). My old man would actually measure the crown moulding out at the same time before heading to the saw to save himself another trip.
I see exactly what you are saying about measuring your base board to the actual room size and cutting the scribes back from that point👍and how it reduces the back and forth that comes with the way I do it👊Great comment, and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
That is a very old style trim and MDF which I tell customers to avoid? Suck’s moisture like fast and swells when mopping or any cleaning with a damp rag! The glue I also do not use because u hv to rip your drywall apart to get it off in the future for updates ! That’s just me though and the GC might of wanted it?
@@thetallcarpenter yes sir , we are sub contractors I know exactly what you mean! I went to a big beautiful job last year won the bid and had these beautiful solid hickory wood doors , nice architraves , stools, everything we as finish carpenters like! So I ask the GC where is my material?? “Oh in the garage” I go in there and it’s laying on the floor? Cement floor? Doors propped against the wall leaning ? For two months! Closet hardware (I mean big beautiful doors) laying over here & there). House a mess? So I know your battle my friend but your work is great! That little say is really interesting? I might hv to get one ! I am assuming you placed it in the 1st page there?
Dear, I see your videos and I always have a question when I see them, how tall are you??, because when I see you install a door I see them so small, or is it that you are very tall????
My body feels in bits after every day Ryan😲Joking aside, yes, the up and down all day does knock it out of me now I'm in my 50's😳Oh to be 18 again hey🤗Cheers Del
I need reading glasses to mark my architraves Paul, as I struggle to focus on things close up🤣 I know being tall has its advantages, but I bet you can find clothes to fit you easily😆Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there🖐That's tge politest way you could ever tell me my thumbnails are like the work of a 5 year old🤣I'm so rubbish with computers, and can barely import a screen shot into the simple editing program on my computer😬Any advise on how to make a better job of my thumbnails would be greatfully appreciated as I think they are definitely holding my videos back a bit😢Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 😂 They're not that bad, I'm not even sure if more professional looking thumbnails even help! Haha I couldn't see any other contact details for you so pop me over an email (I've got one on my 'about me' channel page). I can either give you some ideas how to tweak them or I'm happy to just do them for you for free 😁
Hi there🖐You're exactly right, and that's why I only skirting and architraved the 2 room that were carpeted👍The flooring video is coming soon which includes me fitting the skirting and architrave after👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great video del, one thing that does my head in is plasterer’s leaving the skin thick at the bottom so your skirting’s all ways on the piss, be better leaving it 4inch up! Lol
I'm sure it bugs us all BB😬I saw some plasterers stick scrim tape all the way round at the bottom, and then pull it off when they'd finished the set, leaving it super clean👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Reminds me off house bashing in the 1990 before I emigrated to Australia no battery tools then generator and leads and hammer Australia was nail guns and Routers keep the videos coming
Ahh, I remember those days Jonathan😬Amazing how things have changed eh🤔Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Modern glues are a blessing, thankfully, lovely neat job as usual 🪚🔨👍
They certainly are Mark👊and I was always a bit reluctant to embrace using them being traditionally trained and taught to mechanical fix , nearly everything. But like you say, they definitely assist in the carpentry process👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
This is exactly what I'm starting tomorrow, full trim out in a bungalow.
Handy enough I hope.
Hope it goes well for you Gary👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
When I'm doing skirting I refer to the plaster at the bottom of a wall as a bell end, much like the plasters who put it on 🤣
That's bloody hilarious Tony🤣Thanks fir watching bud, and have a good week👍Cheers Del
😂😂
😂😂😂
The plasters have also upset the Sparky by filling in a load of their backboxes.
@@sergiofernandez3725 I worked on a job a few years ago, where the plasterers buried 8 of the sparkles back boxes😬
Perfect job Dell !! Nicely done !! Great video, thanks Dell
As always, thanks for watching Michael 😎 Cheers
Great video as always del, don’t normally comment but just wanted to say thanks for all the time and effort you put into them. Love your attention to detail and it’s so helpful you sharing your thought processes as so many seem to skip over the smaller steps. Cheers ben
I really appreciate you taking the time to comment Ben🤗Its always tricky to know how to format my videos, and ultimately, I want people to be able to follow and learn from them🤞Cheers Del
Cheers Del. Enjoyed that.
Thanks for watching Bob🤗Cheers Del
Thank you very much for your videos, Ive been binge watching lately. As a hobby woodworker I thought doing this kind of work in my home might have been easier but I've learnt its a different ball game to cutting dovetails in the workshop. You have helped me no end, your videos are very informative and you're a pleasure to watch.
That's a really nice comment Paul🤗and like the thought that my videos may be of help to you🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great vid and chuffed that I do it all the same way you showed although you're a bit lighter on your feet with the dancing. Great video
Hi SD🖐You should have seen me back in the day dressed in a suit and tie, burning up the dance floor in the night clubs🤣Thanks for your comment bud 😎 Cheers Del
Beautiful precision work as always Del 🤙🏽🤙🏽🧱👍🏼
Hi Steve🖐That's decent of you to say fella, and I hope you are doing OK, and have a good week👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter same to you Del 🧱👍🏽🤙🏾
Same as Del your very lucky with the plaster's no snots left on the wall , was working with a mate a few weeks ago and he had a cordless chop saw , very impressed ideal for second fix no leads , great video 👍🇮🇪☘️😁👏👏
Hi John🖐I would have had a cordless mitre saw in a heartbeat, but I went for the mains one so I could plug it into the extractor which, in turn, switches on automatically like the cordless saw does not😬Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
Top work again Del. 🚴👍
Thank you Barry🤩
New to your channel mate! Great video as I’m in the property renovation trade myself on a lot of social housing properties amongst other properties. Now I know why your channel is called the tall carpenter. Soon as you stood by the door fitting the arcs I immediately realised haha! 👍 take care. Marc
Hi Marc🖐Welcome to the channel bud, and it's great to have you watching🤩Yeah, I think this video in particular, has highlighted to many of my veiwers how tall I am when stood next to a 6'6" door opening😆Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter yes mate it sure was a wow moment haha! I do have a mate of mine who is 6ft 8”… great guy and I was taller than him in school but he obviously had a growth spurt ha! It’s nice to see a job that’s all brand new looking. Most of my work is on council housing here in Wolverhampton. They just don’t have the time, funds or care sometimes to allow you to do what needs to be done. I’ve been in the trade since I was 18… 32 now and I always like to keep up with other trades to keep my head above the rest and make sure my work stays at a high standard, which I think videos like this teach that standard which should be kept to! I’ll be binge watching your other videos now! Marc
@Marc Gray I know I'm lucky Marc to mostly do new work, but I've definitely done my share of carpentry on jobs like you describe😬Thanks again for watching👍
Hi Del, great video again. I always skirt a room in an anti-clockwise direction. You only ever need to scribe the right then which is easier on the chop saw.
That's pretty cheeky Lee🤩 I just cut from top to bottom on the mitre saw if doing opposite hand scribes👍Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
100%
lol, just clocked that you are really tall when you were standing by the door. Thought it was a gimmick ,sorry loz. Always a pucka video, loads of catchin up to do after my heart attack. All the best, you do a great job
Hi Steve🖐Sorry to hear about your heart attack, and hope you are recovering well🤞Oh yeah, I am considered pretty tall, and do have to stoop slightly to get through a standard door opening😲Thanks for watching🤩Cheers Del
Brilliant great to watch great tradesman
Appreciate your kind words Trevor🤗Cheers
Nice one Del, It's coming on nicely. Envious that you're working with such a considerate plasterer 👍
I know I'm lucky to be part of a top notch team of tradesmen Jim🤗Thanks for watching😎Cheers
Another great video del, I’m deffo not jealous that you have decent plasterers 😂😂
I'm very lucky, that's for sure🤗Thanks for watching😎Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter was a pleasure ! I enjoy watching your videos 👍🏻
Again very informative...the main tip I'm taking away today is your "rolling technique" for gluing the architrave...Genius👌. I'm feeling very chuffed though in that I would do every step just as you do including keeping pins and nails to the absolute minimum. I curse so many lads that have over done nails when I need to remove skirting for flooring...modern adhesives are so good there's very little need for anything else...
Sounds like we are on the same page with the nails Brendan🤔and I also despair when I see skirtings and architraves 'machine gunned' full of nails when the adhesives, as you say, are so good👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers
Really enjoying this series of videos Del thank you for the great content as usual 👍🏼
It's my pleasure Michael🤩Thanks for your comment😎Cheers
Nice video Del look forward to the wardrobe fit and of course the Kitchen!
Both videos are almost complete Mark🤞and will be coming up soon👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great videos mate
Thank you Del🤩Cheers Del😎
I still do my architraves the old fashioned way in three pieces no glue. Nailed up with 18 gauge brad nailer. In Oz most of our archs and skirts are still pine. It is very hard to find that quick stick mitre glue. And when you do it is crap on pine. Skirts I nail as well. Most of us do. That polymer glue in other brands is available and boy does it stick. But at about $18 a tube it should do. The only time I use it is on steel frame homes where you don't really have a choice. Glue and a few hardened brads to hold until glue goes off. I do my skirt scribes different as well. I don't use a sliding mitre saw very often at all. And I hardly ever lay the mitre saw over. When I scribe my corners I just plumb cut 45 degrees on the 90. Then I cut the whole scribe with a coping saw on that size skirt. Offer the cut up. Scribe any gap with coping saw or sander depending on how much. Cut to length and fit. That MDF would be nicer to work with. Some of the pine I fit if you didn't fill it full of nails to hold it in place it would be impossible to get it fairly straight. Didn't see any of that sort of archs and skirts in UK before I left. It was all pine complete with knots. Usually ogee moulded. 6 inch skirts and 2 inch archs. 1 inch thick. All nailed on with ovals and lost heads. Then go round with the Shellac pot and treat all the knots. Looks like even the UK is following the American trends now.
Hi Dave🖐Much of your comment also describes the EXACT way I did my architraves and skirting for many, many years😁And, yes, MDF is great to work with, but has no character and is not always suitable for every job🤔Great comment as always bud, and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hey mate.
I'm in aus to. What glue is best to use on the architrave 45s on MDF. Fed up of shrinkage gaps appearing!
Cheers
@@liamjenkins82 The only mitre glue I have found in Oz for MDF. As used in US and UK. Is a CA glue made by Sudal. Sudal 2C is a two part glue and activator. But it doesn't work very well on pine. Better for the MDF. I also pin my corners. These days with a 23 guage pin nailer.
@@davetaylor4741 oh nice I'll give that a go cheers. I've been avoiding pine, mostly for price and splitting.
I'm a self renovator guy ( Boiley by trade) I might have to bite the bullet and get a little nailer gun.
No problems mitre and coping skirt, but all of my mitre joints have a shrinkage gap within months. It's a shame. Fill and repaint.
Appreciate the reply. I'll try that stuff out.
Quick tip for newbie’s if I may? If you are new to architraves, make 2 45 cuts. The first oversized, then come back and refine the cut by nibbling it. This way, you are drastically reducing the risk of cutting off too much. And do the 45 first then cut to length. Sorry if I’m teaching anyone to suck lemons.
Excellent video mate 👍
Hi Tyler🖐Always welcome you comments bud👊and thanks for watching🤩Have a good week bud
@@thetallcarpenter 😀. Have a good week too
Your teaching people how to be extremely inefficient 🤦
Unless it's an old house you cut all the arks the same length & always cut them as a pair which cuts the work in half 👌
@@pauldavies7251 what I mean is, if it is your first time or maybe a diyer, you’ll worry less about speed and efficiency and more about accuracy. You can still cut in pairs.
Once you get the hang of it, then you can do it the way we do with 1 45 cut and 1 length cut
@@pauldavies7251100% agree, I cut all my jambs followed by a mitre on one end of the head. Bash out all the jambs then mark and hang the heads in one go. The method shown in this video is borderline joinery shop accurate, on a price I ain’t got time for this
Excellent video Del
Cheers Robert🤩Thanks for watching👍
nice one. when scribing skirting internal corners i usually have a piece of skirting about 300mm long with a scribe already cut each end. hold it against the fixed piece and mark the piece you want to cut. Which gives you a scribe line you can cut with a hand saw and it will fit tight.
Hi there🖐Before mitre saws were common place, that's EXACTLY how I used to mark my scribes, and it's still a great way of doing it, as, like you say, it's accurate and actually requires the same amount of cutting as using the mitre saw👍Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great tip
13:06 so true Del.. The prices are rubbish, and that’s why I gave up on the whole price work thing.
I never really embraced price work Craig, and I think that and a lack of proper training is the reason there is such poor standards on a lot of jobs nowadays😬Thanks for watching😎
Lovely attention to detail
Cheers Harry🤩Thanks for watching 😎
If you scribe on the right, you can use the chop saw to take out the straight cut of the scribe when you put the blade upright, then just use a coping saw for the curved bit of the scribe. Its also set to the correct angle still. You can do it all on your chop saw bench.👍🏻
Hi Lee🖐I know what you're saying bud, and I don't do it that way for 2 reasons. Firstly, in my experience, the saw does not cut the same line when leant over at 45 degrees as it does when its at 90 degrees due to a tiny amount of play when its leant over, and secondly, cutting the straight part of the scribe with the saw as you describe doesn't work when I'm cutting the opposite hand scribe with the moulding facing out👍Thanks for your comment bud, and for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I see Del. But if you always scribe the right side and go counter clockwise round the room it's never facing out 👍🏻.
@@LeeTillbury True Lee, but if you lay out your skirting in a room with a full length on the back wall, inevitably, you will need to cut both hands of a scribe👍(if you're a pedant like me😁)
@@thetallcarpenter Each to their own Del, your way is probably better but when you're on a tight price, every second counts 🤣👍🏻👍🏻
@Lee Key You're exactly right Lee🤔and I'm fortunate not have to work on price so can afford to endulge my carpentry obsession😆
That’s new to me I’ve never glued the arch’s on before , the joints yeh , but all around , na I’ve never done that , but heh don’t spose it can hurt
Hi Del. Great video. I do mostly the same as you, I can see clearly your plasters did a tidy job. Unfortunately here in Ireland 🇮🇪 to many people on price and very untidy. Like bellcasting at skirting level wiping skim fat at skirting level. Reveals way out of square. I back cut everything. Even my first piece 2 square ends back cut and set saw off 90 degrees so the top of the skirting is touching the corners of the wall. Most Reveals for external corners are always out of plumb aswell as square, so i lay my skirting down, draw a line up the back of it where it meets the Reveal return, check that line with my square, so often the bottom is longer on the wall, cut my 45s to longest point if you understand me. If very bad I'll get my battery planer and take a bit of the back of the skirting on smaller returns . So it gives me room to to play and get a beautiful 45 join on the outside. Good plaster is the very helpful. Done my own home , got to know a very tidy plaster, he had my skirting area top class.some different putting skirting on. Faster . No magic wand needed like some places I go to. 🤣. Looking forward to your next video Del👍🇮🇪
I know exactly the kind of plastering you describing Paul, and have also had to go to the same lengths as you to get my skirtings to fit, which is why I know how lucky I am to have such a great plasterer to follow👍Next video coming soon and thanks for watching bud🤩Cheers
What kind of floor covering is going in this house? In the US we hold the base trim 1/2 inch up from the floor for carpet or install the trim after vinyl.
Also, nice to see coping being done properly !
Hi Bill🖐These floors will be carpeted, which is cut tight to the skirting board👍Thanks for watching from the US 😎Cheers Del
Great content as usual...good to see how the pro's go about setting up and cutting the architrave , some really good tips to take from the video
Cheers Arthur🤩Glad you found it interesting👍
Looking forward to the wardrobes vid
It's coming soon Philip👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice video! I live in a new build where everything is done in a rush, not too happy with the skirting in the bathroom as MDF and water do not go well together. So I’ll be taking them off and make them out of solid wood and copy the profile than no one will ever see the difference.
Hi Rob🖐Yeah, new builds go on MDF overdrive and just fit it everywhere, and as you have found out, its no good in a wet area😬Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice vid and tips again Del. I bought one of those DeWalt chop saws last year as they take up very little room compared to my larger Makita, got it for a very cheap price at Travis Perkins, like you say very accurate cuts with it.
Hi Gary🖐I only bought it as a bit of a punt, and didn't think it would be much good for only £140ex VAT, but its been really good, and like you say, super portable and accurate💪Thanks for watching😎Cheers
What saw is it?
Excellent as always. If the plaster is proud of the door lining is it best to mark the plaster up to the depth of the the of the architrave and then knock a bit off?
Thanks
Hi there🖐I don't do that as it can make a nasty line down the plaster work where its been cut back😬What I will do is place the architrave in position, mark all the way down the wall/plaster, put the architrave to one side, and then put another mark about 5mm inside that mark, and then take the plaster of from this mark, flush back to the lining. This will then cause the architrave to 'tilt' slightly in towards the lining, buy a little tickle of the mitre with a sharp block plane will get the joint spot on🤘Doing it this way also means there will be no step where the skirting meets the architrave👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Perfect thanks. I was thinking about some how reliving the back a bit that combo is good.
Lovely job the builder wants shot putting lovely doors and then cheap pencil round shirts and arcs, all high end fittings then spoil it with
skirts an arcs
It's the builders trick to give the illusion of quality Kevin by ONLY fitting oak doors😶 Potential buyers lap it up🤯Cheers Del
👍👍👍 Thank you Del.
Appreciate you watching Pete🤗Cheers
Keep em coming Del. Have you ever tried the grinder and flap disk for the scribes? Wouldn’t bother on those simple ones but for the fancy stuff it’s bang on
Hi there🖐I've seen scribes done with a flap wheel, but never tried it myself😬Thanks for watching😎Cheers
What is the best practice if the plaster is slightly proud of the door lining as you mentioned? Only by 3mm or so
Hi there🖐Really, the plaster should be hacked back to be flush with the lining and the mitres adjusted/planed slightly to make them tight👍In reality, any gap between the lining and architrave will just be caulked up😉Cheers Del
Great vid m8! If you don’t mind me asking where are yr safety shoes from in this video please?
Hi Dean🖐I know it's not right, but unless I'm doing heavy framing or roofing, I just wear walking type shoes😬These one are cheap from Sports Direct by Gelert called the 'Horizon' Lightweight and very comfy👍Cheers Del
Tons of ways to hang arcs. Fastest for me was cut all the jambs 2.1 with the mitre and head with mitre one side. Place the head of the arc on your margin marks and draw a line across the top in both corners, then spin the jambs upside down on the mitre and mark for length. Nail the jambs to your margin. Now spin the head upside down and line up the edge of the mitre on one side and mark the other side. Now simply cut the one remaining head on the mitre maybe a couple of mill long and squeeze the head between the jambs. Because you cut the head slightly long when you squeeze it between the jambs you have perfect mitres every time no need for mitre mate.
The other advantage to this method is I can cut all the jambs for the whole house in one go followed by the head, then pin all the jambs and come back and do the heads. Nothing worse than having to spin your mitre saw every five minutes and it burns the clock. Like I said multiple ways to do arc sets but for me this is the fastest on price.
Another great comment MR👌and thanks for adding it in😎Cheers Del
👍👍👍👋👊👌nice del
Thanks for watching John🤩Cheers
What about shrinkage and movement (new build) because some of my adhesive lost its grip and the lack of pins
Meant quite a few came loose
Hi there🖐Shirinkage, even on new work, will be minimal, and the adhesive I use is not only very strong, but also allows for some movement👍Cheers Del
What are the nails fixed to if you are firing them through dot and dab?
Hi Adrian🖐I just use 28mm pins here and there straight into the plasterboard👊
Hi Del, what saw is that? I need a new second fix saw.
Hi Andy🖐It's the DeWalt DWS773. Cracking little saw and only about £140+vat🤑
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks Del, just what I am looking for👍👍
@Bricklayers World With Andy It's a beauty Andy👊(no cutting mankey old bits of wood covered in concrete though mate😬I know what you brickies are like😆🤗)
@@thetallcarpenter Don't worry I've got another one for that 😁
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 The carpenters one Andy😜
my favourite for price is multi-stick, all the modern solvent free ones are way better than bad old gripfil and pinkgrip
Oh yeah, Gripfil and Pink Grip skinned over before you got the material onto the wall😬Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, nice to see you back I was wondering with your coping saw do you have the blades teeth facing towards the handle?
Hi Kevin🖐I put the teeth to cut on the down stroke the same as a handsaw👍Hope you are well bud, and thanks for watching😎Cheers
From experience I would recommend gloves when using mitre mate type glue!
Did things get a bit stuck together John😬You're right, and you do need to be careful with it🤞Cheers Del
Hi Del,up in Scotland I call the architrave Door Facing 😊
Thanks for that info Paul👍I should start collecting all the different names we have for the same thing in different parts of the world, as I think it would make a great video🤔Thanks for watching😎Cheers
I find it necessary to run a brush of PVA along the plaster first for best adhesion to the wall, i use stixall, the adhesive can dry into the plaster and after time de touch with expansion and contraction, great vid tho 👍
Hi BTB🖐That will certainly make a VERY strong bond💪Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
What a load of toss.
@@dalemoore11 not Toss, "PVA" applying sealers to new plaster for better adhesion is actually common knowledge, you would do it before tiling as well, the fresh plaster soaks a lot of the moisture before the adhesive dries. But hey, if your happy doing it your way, 👍😉
Not a fan of PVA, prefer to use a stabilising solution,my favourite is Everbuild 704
@@stuartandrews4344 yes sure, but same purpose 👍😉
👏👏👏👏👏👏 As always..
Thank you Alistair🤗Cheers Del
Being so tall (I'm 6'3" myself) do you ever get back problems with all the bending over?
Hi BH🖐I get back ache every now and again if I'm doing lots of bending down, but always goes after a rest or good night's sleep👍Cheers Del
Novice question, why is the skirting scribed not mitred?
Hi there🖐Scribing internal corners makes a more forgiving joint in relation to movement/shrikage👍Cheers Del
Hi Del, great video as always. Re the chops saw, was it just price and weight that led you down the Dewalt path? I remember in another video you talking about choosing another chop saw and we both had the same older type saw of this saw. Does this mean this was it's replacement? Or just to fill a gap? The older version (which I've had for years is pretty heavy to be lumping about as my years are going along....How do you get on cutting skirting that's too deep for the saw? Is it accurate enough to cut tilted to 45 cutting flat and then return to a true 90? Mine never seems to be perfectly accurate due to slight movement in the head as you push and pull? Did or are you considering a bigger bladed saw? Great contents as usual. Regards Brian.
Hi Brian🖐I bought this cheap little mitre saw as I was going to go down the cordless route with the DeWalt Flexvolt saw, (I'm already on that battery platfom), and I borrowed one to try of a buddy. After using it with my extractor, (which, because the saw was cordless, I had to start/stop manually each time I made a cut), I decided to go corded as when plugged into my extractor, it would start/stop automatically. What I found was EXCELLENT about the Flexvolt saw was its dust extraction, and I noticed that the cheap little mitre saw had a similar design dust port, so given that, plus its low price and weight, I went for it👊I have to say that I have been blown away at how good its been for such a cheap saw. Its accurate at 90° and laid over at 45° and has the same power as our old Elu/DeWalt saws. It doesn't cut quite as wide, but the depth of cut is the same. Overall, I'm very happy with it, and it's now my main mitre saw for all studwork/2nd fix. I'm sure it won't last as long as our old ones, but a the same price as a tank of diesel, if it only lasts 5 years it'll still be worth it😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter interesting. I might have a look at that one as the old dewalt/elu one is rather heavy to lug about the older i get. I'm a little reluctant to go down the battery version of the chop saw/ table saw route due to the costs and possible change of battery style for the manufacturer and then im left with a redundant saw(s). I have seen that saw but didn't think it was going to be any good, but as you rightly say ( and I'd not thought of it like a tank of diesel) its worth a punt! Thank you for the quick detailed deply. Keep up the great work. The videos are great for all to learn by
@@thetallcarpenter What model is the saw?
@@TheDrumek Hi there. Its the DWS773 from screwfix and was only £140 plus vat👍Its been really good
@@thetallcarpenter What blade do you use in the saw, I've got some pelmets and crown moulding to fit in my kitchen?
Excellent video as always. I always go around with to square off cuts of my baseboard and a 2 inch wide old chisel and scrape the excess drywall mud(plaster) out of the inside corners. I find that its is more efficient then finding and cutting each piece slightly out of square. Even on large houses it doesn't take me very long as I am also getting a cut list for my larger runs of base. I also always measure my copes from the long point of the miter instead of the face of the cope for larger runs I can measure out most of if not all of the room in one trip verse going back and forth several times. I find that the only time this is not accurate is when there are small returns into door casing or small jogs on outside corners(think less then 1ft). My old man would actually measure the crown moulding out at the same time before heading to the saw to save himself another trip.
I see exactly what you are saying about measuring your base board to the actual room size and cutting the scribes back from that point👍and how it reduces the back and forth that comes with the way I do it👊Great comment, and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Top Cat is back
Thank you bud🤩
I would definitely invest in a dewalt or Milwaukee sweeping brush on that job del working in a mess there lad
I've got a sweeping brush Coggsy, but using it isn't my strong point😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Dels had the same broom for 20 years. That's a long time Dave!
Was wondering where you were del
Still alive and kicking Darren🤞Hope you are well🤩
That is a very old style trim and MDF which I tell customers to avoid? Suck’s moisture like fast and swells when mopping or any cleaning with a damp rag! The glue I also do not use because u hv to rip your drywall apart to get it off in the future for updates !
That’s just me though and the GC might of wanted it?
You hit the nail on the head there bud🤔and the builder/General Contractor gets what he wants🙃Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter yes sir , we are sub contractors I know exactly what you mean!
I went to a big beautiful job last year won the bid and had these beautiful solid hickory wood doors , nice architraves , stools, everything we as finish carpenters like!
So I ask the GC where is my material??
“Oh in the garage” I go in there and it’s laying on the floor? Cement floor? Doors propped against the wall leaning ? For two months!
Closet hardware (I mean big beautiful doors) laying over here & there). House a mess?
So I know your battle my friend but your work is great!
That little say is really interesting? I might hv to get one ! I am assuming you placed it in the 1st page there?
I meant the Miter Saw Del !
@zephyr1408 Amazing to think we both despair at same way our builders see fit to store the lovely materials we sometimes get to use😵💫
The days of pinning the joins together are long gone.
Absolutely SS, and I cant remember the last time I did it🤔Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
I lad 😊
Dear, I see your videos and I always have a question when I see them, how tall are you??, because when I see you install a door I see them so small, or is it that you are very tall????
I think the clue’s in the name
Hi Carlos🖐Wearing a pair of work boots/shoes makes me the same height as a standard 6'6" door opening🤯Cheers Del
Why not useing the paslode
Hi Aaron🖐I've never had a Paslode 2nd fix nail gun, and used to just run air nailers👍Cheers Del
👍
Cheers Paddy😎
Does your body feel in bits after a day like this?!
My body feels in bits after every day Ryan😲Joking aside, yes, the up and down all day does knock it out of me now I'm in my 50's😳Oh to be 18 again hey🤗Cheers Del
😎 Oh Yeah!
Cheers Garviel👊
🤘😎🤘
Thanks for watching Wayne🤩
Fuck me .. I have to stand on a box to mark the architraves 🤣
I need reading glasses to mark my architraves Paul, as I struggle to focus on things close up🤣 I know being tall has its advantages, but I bet you can find clothes to fit you easily😆Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
👍👊👏🙏
Cheers Jim👍Thanks for watching 😎
Decent
Thanks for watching Neil🤩Cheers
Hey Del, give me a shout if you ever fancy some help with your thumbnails 👍
Hi there🖐That's tge politest way you could ever tell me my thumbnails are like the work of a 5 year old🤣I'm so rubbish with computers, and can barely import a screen shot into the simple editing program on my computer😬Any advise on how to make a better job of my thumbnails would be greatfully appreciated as I think they are definitely holding my videos back a bit😢Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 😂 They're not that bad, I'm not even sure if more professional looking thumbnails even help! Haha I couldn't see any other contact details for you so pop me over an email (I've got one on my 'about me' channel page). I can either give you some ideas how to tweak them or I'm happy to just do them for you for free 😁
I think it shows how bad many plasterers are when it is surprising and unusual when they do the job right...🤔🤣🤣
I think that goes for a lot of things Andy🤔We only notice things when they are right🙄Cheers Del
I'm not a carpenter but I thought flooring first then architrave skirting last
Hi there🖐You're exactly right, and that's why I only skirting and architraved the 2 room that were carpeted👍The flooring video is coming soon which includes me fitting the skirting and architrave after👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter excellent videos thanx.
How freakin tall are you geez!?
Hi Rukon🖐I'm 1.97m tall, or just short of 6'6"🤠Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Yeah know do the same video on bad walls and then we learn something😂😂😂😂 lol
I hear you Rocco🤔and I know I'm fortunate to not have to work behind poor, other tradesmen👍Cheers Del
MDF this MDF that
Its everywhere on new builds nowadays bud🤔Cheers Del
Are you really a tall carpenter or you cut that door down 8’’s 😂
I use 3/4 size doors to create the illusion I'm really tall bud🤣
@@thetallcarpenter I’m 4’6” and wouldn’t fancy boarding ceilings with you 🙄😂😂
@@coggsy3036 I used to work with a guy your height, AND we used to tack ceilings together😜
@@thetallcarpenter you pair must have only done ceilings over stairwells together 🙄😂😂
@coggsy3036 We had a 10ft scaffold board, and my end was on a milk crate and his end was on a saw horse🤯
Great video del, one thing that does my head in is plasterer’s leaving the skin thick at the bottom so your skirting’s all ways on the piss, be better leaving it 4inch up! Lol
I'm sure it bugs us all BB😬I saw some plasterers stick scrim tape all the way round at the bottom, and then pull it off when they'd finished the set, leaving it super clean👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter that’s a brilliant idea, should do a video on that lol
👍
Thanks for watching Richard🤩Cheers Del