How to Varnish a Stand Up Paddle Board SUP - First attempt and Fail -Episode 25
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- Опубліковано 27 жов 2024
- In this video, I show how to varnish and provide multiple tips and thoughts about getting a good finish. This is also, what I consider to be, a huge FAIL. The Varnish work is excellent but the surface wasn’t ready. I rushed into wanting to varnish. I want to point out that the job actually looks very good in the video, much better than real life. Even so, it would have been ok and provided the necessary UV protection but the more I looked at it, the more dissatisfied I became. I have spent many hours building this and so, I can’t accept mediocre or less than perfect. We will have another video soon that shows how I get it right. Watch the entire build with this Playlist: • San Marcos - Jarvis Bo...
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#varnishfail
Okay check I'm looking forward to seeing your next video. I'm never too old to learn something new. And I no matter who's doing the video I always learn something new.
You need at least 3 coats of varnish, and more is better, aiming for 6 is good. Try brushing on one layer without thinning it. Give the whole surface a scotchbriting before applying, wipe it down with a bit of the Flood to remove the dust, let that evaporate and then tack cloth immediately before applying the Epifanes. Use a cross-hatch pattern (Apply, Level, Tip), working systematically down the length one 1' section at a time. Make sure the whole section is covered with an even layer, then move on. The varnish will feel really thick, but get it on there and spread it as evenly as you can. You will see brush marks, but they will level out. The thick varnish creates a thick enough film that it has the ability to self level. Don't thin. Trust the process.
If this process doesn't work you can always sand it level and try again as you see fit, but you will at least have gotten a good layer of varnish on the board, so you have some thickness to sand.
Thanks for taking the time to comment Nick! I respect you and your opinion. Cheers Brother
It looks gorgeous to me, but I'm not a perfectionist. I like the "2 boat length rule" you mentioned.
It looks better on camera, but you aren’t wrong it is good
I Am not a Wood finishing expert, although I have studied and attended classes under Bob Flexner. Who has written several books on antique restoration finishing.
I'm wondering why you don't used compeessed air at any point, to clear the dust from the board.
I do have a small air compressor but I don't have a lot of attachments and just rarely use it. I'll keep it in mind for the future. thanks!
you have a can of epiphanes could you tell me if it says to stir the product before using
Hi Robert. The print is so small haha. In the product description it says to shake it in order to feel the difference regarding solids. That said, in the instructions there was neither a step for shaking or stirring. It does talk about mixing with thinner which I can only imagine doing by stirring. Shaking just seems like a bad idea. I could be wrong.
The reason that up mixing is that in polyurethane drying is achieved by the removal of mineral spirits while cross-linking of the plastic is achieved through Japan dryers that settle out. Now most of the time Japan dryers are sort of a metallic catalyst. Oftentimes people make the mistake of opening a can of polyurethane and pouring a quantity into a working container without mixing the can. And then after 3 or 4 days they wonder why their surface finish is gummy and not sandable. I learned this the hard way using polyurethane on a front door 37 years ago.
Okay Chuck to Fair epoxy and too fair a wood boat, your faring board needs to be held at a 45° angle to the direction of travel and at the same time the board needs to bend to fit the contour while held at a 45° angle. Doing these two things will guarantee that you don't have any low spots. I cannot make a video I don't think. I think I'll try at a later date. Maybe when I build another boat. I've had a cerebellum stroke. This is sort of inhibitory to woodworking. Just think about what the sanding board is doing and you will see that you could accidentally create low spots sanding with the grain without holding the board at a 45° angle by sanding in one spot too long. It is true that a longboard needs to be extremely flexible to also not create low spots. There should be although I don't know that there is there should be some good auto body videos that demonstrate the procedure. As you can imagine Auto body people have to constantly fair shapes to make repairs. And I have to get it perfect because light hits the surface and bounces back to the eye.
Hi Robert, in this application, the sanding board proved to be ineffective. There really isn’t enough curve or shape in the board to really benefit from this approach. I had great success with it when I was fairing the hull on my Haven. What I noticed with it on this board was that the sand paper was working under the handles but not in the middle of the sanding board. I then found myself trying to hold the sanding board down in the middle of it. After a while, I went back to the ROS.
That's a good observation that you saw material being removed only under the handles. That actually means your long board is not stiff enough. Covering the surface with pencil marks the automobile industry they use a guide coat. When the guide coat is sanded away you're done with that spot and you're not to touch it again.