@GeoffGosling-w4e yeah, that's fair. Think I said in another comment it didn't look that bad on the day, but while editing the footage I thought it looked like rach was miles away.
First time I led this was over 20 years ago when it was considered E1, I was full of confidence and climbing well and went straight up it and really enjoyed it. Second time was a few years later, over confident, slipped off at the rockover and landed at the feet of my belayer. Very badly bruised legs, bum and back but luckily no breaks
@stevegulseren1078 it's quite a fall very lucky to come away without breaks. Good effort on the first go though. It's a tricky one to grade. If you slipped on that top slab it would be bad.
When Brown climbed it (in 1948, I think) he was wearing plimsolls, without chalk, and graded it VS! My 1978 guide has it as HVS and I recall that before cams it was very hard to protect to the point where it was easier to solo than to lead...
Nice lead, remember being up there and having to ask my belayer if the slab-padding went left or right. Glad I didn't end up questing rightwards! Important to have your belay device dangling between your legs to make it look extra casual 😉 Not sure if I'm a fan of the belayer standing behind that ledge, a fall from the climber would put them straight on their face, why should the climber get all the spice though!
Cheers. Yeah right looked a bit filthy and less appealing. Ha that is a bad habit I can't seem to shake. I did think that while I was editing it, I didn't think any of it on the day, so maybe the camera makes it look worse. Closer would be better though.
@christianantonini4038 just personal preference. I think it's easier to manage on two and less chance of rope drag (not so much of an issue on grit and small single pitch).
Double ropes are superior in a lot of situations, but probably don't make a difference on this route (although hard to know for sure from the ground if you're onsighting, and these would be the ropes they had with them at the crag). They allow you to manage rope drag without having to extend each piece of gear as much, allowing you to be safer in a variety of situations where even short falls could be dangerous (ledges, at the beginnings of routes) With double ropes, clipping a piece of gear above you doesn't risk a ground fall if you blow the clip in the same way it could with a single rope. And the same goes for pulling up rope to clip a potentially marginal piece of gear, if the gear pops with a single rope, you're falling that extra distance. Finally (?) they allow you to abseil further.
@Stewartthorp you could get a decent nut in below the pocket where i tried to get a purple cam in, but none of that gear will help on the top slab to be fair.
I remember climbing that back in the '70's, Scott. I fell in love with gritstone slabs that day.
@@shaunlewis-green8286 Awesome, i bet there was a little less polish then. What's your favourite slab route on the grit?
Think that I would have had my belayer standing up against the rock face. Might not make much difference, but it would make me feel better!
@GeoffGosling-w4e yeah, that's fair. Think I said in another comment it didn't look that bad on the day, but while editing the footage I thought it looked like rach was miles away.
With that stance she could fall over and/or bash her legs - and either way, lose control of the rope.
This looks really cool, I'm going to have to head over and try it next year
admitted I'm watching this instead of doing my stock take for Crag Swag
@@profpeth it's a good one for sure
Joe Brown and the rock and ice rip. FA 1948 No Chalk no sticky boots and only slings and pebbles for protection.
First time I led this was over 20 years ago when it was considered E1, I was full of confidence and climbing well and went straight up it and really enjoyed it. Second time was a few years later, over confident, slipped off at the rockover and landed at the feet of my belayer. Very badly bruised legs, bum and back but luckily no breaks
@stevegulseren1078 it's quite a fall very lucky to come away without breaks. Good effort on the first go though.
It's a tricky one to grade. If you slipped on that top slab it would be bad.
When Brown climbed it (in 1948, I think) he was wearing plimsolls, without chalk, and graded it VS! My 1978 guide has it as HVS and I recall that before cams it was very hard to protect to the point where it was easier to solo than to lead...
@alanwatsontravel ha I wouldn't fancy the top slab in plimsolls
Nice lead, remember being up there and having to ask my belayer if the slab-padding went left or right. Glad I didn't end up questing rightwards! Important to have your belay device dangling between your legs to make it look extra casual 😉 Not sure if I'm a fan of the belayer standing behind that ledge, a fall from the climber would put them straight on their face, why should the climber get all the spice though!
Cheers. Yeah right looked a bit filthy and less appealing. Ha that is a bad habit I can't seem to shake.
I did think that while I was editing it, I didn't think any of it on the day, so maybe the camera makes it look worse. Closer would be better though.
I seem to remember that at least one of the three pebbles fell out in the sixties. Are they still there?
Yeah, there were definitely still some there.
Can I ask you why using the double rope instead of a single one?
@christianantonini4038 just personal preference. I think it's easier to manage on two and less chance of rope drag (not so much of an issue on grit and small single pitch).
Double ropes are superior in a lot of situations, but probably don't make a difference on this route (although hard to know for sure from the ground if you're onsighting, and these would be the ropes they had with them at the crag).
They allow you to manage rope drag without having to extend each piece of gear as much, allowing you to be safer in a variety of situations where even short falls could be dangerous (ledges, at the beginnings of routes)
With double ropes, clipping a piece of gear above you doesn't risk a ground fall if you blow the clip in the same way it could with a single rope.
And the same goes for pulling up rope to clip a potentially marginal piece of gear, if the gear pops with a single rope, you're falling that extra distance.
Finally (?) they allow you to abseil further.
That's a more succinct answer
sketchy before cams
@Stewartthorp you could get a decent nut in below the pocket where i tried to get a purple cam in, but none of that gear will help on the top slab to be fair.
Belayer far to far from leader
I find all the heavy breathing a bit off-putting tbh.
Yeah. Climbed that. I didn't think I was a hero that needed to film it
The video took me back to my teenage years bringing back good memories.
Bit mean mate