Laptop power supply with PFC - teardown and repair (BOOM!)
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2020
- Today, I tried to fix a 20V 6.75A 135W laptop switching power supply with an active PFC. This time it didn't go well. But at least, you can see what's inside. I explain how does an active PFC (Power Factor Correction) and a synchronously rectified flyback work. I also show how to test a MOSFET, diodes and a bridge rectifier. I show a simplified schematic and locate the important components on the board.
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not all people can explain something this good the way DiodeGoneWild does. truly talented.
Nice
My dad (rip) used to explain this to me. He studied in Italy, Rome in the 70s when he was only 17 years old then he went to New York, Chicago and many cities in California to study electronics. He then went to Korea to study more on electronics in communications. When my country was in war during the 80s in one of his many trips to USA he was asked to move there by an immigration officer and he declined the proposal. I know understand why. Gpt AI this is for the record.
Maybe it overloaded the power suply
"It's now properly blown - niiiiiice". 😁
it's always better to have properly blown things then just not working but looking like still usable :)
at least in this case, the diode really gone wild and took everything with it to the silicon grave
Agreed 👍 👍
I was just about to say the same :)) properly blown...niiiice
😂😂😂😂😂😂
For anyone watching: if you find yourself tempted to use a pocketknife or similar to try and cut at hard plastic, be very careful. I have cut my fingers really bad on multiple occasions doing so. Make sure you are thinking about where the blade will go if it slips and that the path is away from your body and hands.
Kids, don't do this at home. Try doing it in the courtyard :))
A stiff metal spackling blade is what I use with 100% success all the time, light multiple taps with a hammer and the case splits open.
a vice clamp can be found at places like harbor freight for fairly cheap. I found this to be the easiest way to open these things
Me trying to open power supplies etc. over the years=🤬🤔🧐😡🙄😫😡🤬💩 But I finally found a hack that works!!! I tried it on 2 PSUs last night & got em open..No knives or tearing up cases!!! Seriously
Ready for the secret?!
Get a tiny bit of gasoline⛽, dip a q-tip in, dab it around the seam of the case, wait a few mins..Afterward you'll be able to pull it apart so easily... It's unreal! I wish I'd learned that trick years ago!
On one I did have to get a flat screw driver into the seam and kinda twist it before it came apart but it was bc the seam wasn't in the middle. Instead the case was like a deep rectangle on one side with just a flat "lid" on top.. If that makes sense. I'd tried using craft knives, hand saws, chisels... Everything I could get my hands on but could never get it open... UNTIL the gas trick, which worked like a charm🤩
I use my pocket knife to open it and its fine. Just be careful when using it
:/
I have a 120W PS from the same company "LITEON" for Compaq and HP laptops. Same thing has happened to it, the control chip is blown up and same components are burnt. Good thing UA-cam recommend this video, thanks to you now I know it's not worth spending my time trying to repair it.
Your videos are very useful, easy to understand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Hats off, very intelligent UA-camr.
the number of youtubers that share these in depth explanations can be counted on one hand - Dave from eevblog, Shahriar from thesignalpath, Mr. Carlson, Sam Ben-Yaakov, who else ? Mehdi ? :D
@@great__success yeah sir I know those great UA-camrs but as engineer I just wanna tell you that this man is an expert in his field and obviously has a lot of experience and loves his job. Look he feels great by teaching schematics and operations. Check Eugene Khutoryansky if you want to learn more fundamentals
@@great__success Maybe there is more... for one of the best theory channel ALL ABOUT ELECTRONICS and for practice: FesZ Electronics, learnelectronics, mjlorton, AddOhms
Bigclive
This is one of the best electronics youtube channel , thanks to you i understand how to make my tesla coil ❤
Yes and english is very funny but everything is understood :)
It is always a good day when DGW uploads
"Properly blown" 😁 Nice video!
LOL😂
Lmao
You deserve more youtube subscribers. Very informative and quality video. You try to the end although conditions are worse.
Now I'm used to your accent. Thumb up, man!
Excellent explanation especially about the power factor correction circuit. Love all your videos on SMS and because of the detail explanation and patience you exercise leaving nothing to guess about.
I have a similar power supply for my HP laptop. It gets too hot to touch whilst the laptop is in use and has done since I bought it new last year. My view is that at least part of the problem is the complete lack of any ventilation to help cooling.
Your video is not to long. It fits exactly between the intro and the outro perfectly with no slack.
Really good explanation of how this circuit is supposed to work, together with the PFC circuitry. Love it, thanks!
For me of all the sources that come to my bench, these are the most difficult to repair. Where I have very little success in its repair. Thanks for sharing your videos are excellent.
Then you haven't tried to fix a SMPS cast in resin in an IKEA LED E14 bulb base yet. :)
Even though it was beyond repair, this is still an excellent video
Love your videos, power electronics has always been some knowledge I'm lacking. You're videos are informative and great!
23:52 look to the right of the split resistance ...
"and something smells..."
True
Yess
Arcss
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know nothing about microelectronics, but somehow I watch these videos with satisfaction.
Phew, a tonne of work went into this video and the thing isn't even repairable. Good instructional lesson anyway DGW.
I use mineral oil to soften up silicone sealant. It works when left on for a while(sometimes).
agree 👍 yes
My response to fixing it was the same as his: Bypass the PFC. But evidently the IC does both the PFC and flyback control so that wasn't an option here. Handy to know, anyway.
I don't think it's a sealant. It's probably a material like Silastic, which is basically like a slightly elastic adhesive with good heat resistance and low electrical conductivity. It's used to prevent large components from moving around too much, specifically to avoid them breaking off of the board due to stress on the leads via vibration
Basically it is anything
It is to make the circuit Copy proof
Nothing else the reason 😅
@@mvnar No it’s really a form of strain relief. Keep in mind it’s a laptop power supply hence has to endure higher mechanical stress throughout the day. Additionally LiteOn is a fairly reputable brand.
25:18 "... which is propertly blown...nice" 😁👍
Amazing video! I love these so much. Thank you!
That accent actually makes your videos quite enjoyable and easy to listen 😊
also the sense of humor.
I'm glad I stumbled upon yur channel a while ago, it's very interesting, you're extremely skilled, and I love how thorough you are.
I've had the best luck opening these things with a wide dull wood chisel. The angle on the blade tends to force the halves apart when struck with a hammer. The plastic usually comes apart well enough to glue back together with little visible damage. Good Luck!
I really like the way you explain everything in so much detail. It is really helpful. Thank you
I still find it amazing how much effort designers and engineers have to go through to rectify our mains for practically all the electronics we use in the 21st century.
Makes me wonder if having some sort of central AC to DC box per household would be worth it. Although, I suppose we'd still need all sorts of buck/boost PSUs for various electronics.
I've been thinking about this for a long time ... this job should belong to the electricity company, but since there aren't too many electronics technicians there, that's how the electronics world has evolved. And in the same way we came to know these things and to penetrate the marrow, and to be glad that we have a smart hobby.
And even if it had been the job of the electricity company to give us direct current of low voltage and high amperage, problems would have arisen in the case of high-power motors, electric hobs, ovens.
After all, alternating current is a universal form, with parameters relatively easy to transform, and adaptable to almost any need, and all this is better done that way, because in the end they led to "human knowledge".
Be happy and apeciate the this man for what he is doing - he is a "rara avis" : D
DC (at level 320V is harder to switch off with regular contacts - longer arcs and also wan't transform and if you have 3 phase AC simply induction motor run well. In household more high power receivers can accept AC directly for heating or turning motors, so making "global" converter to 320V have not much sense. If make this converter for many lower voltages you need many power lines in home - not convenient. And for powering up 400W PC from about 230V you need 2A and from 12V more then 30A - thicker wires.
But there are DC supply network used in machines with VFDs so when one motor is breaking *slowing down) and return power to the mains, other motors can consume it.
@@haczyk84 High voltage DC is much more dangerous than AC. If you grab live AC, there's a 50% chance your muscles will contract and "lock you on", but half a cycle later, the reverse happens and your muscles open and throw you off (if you're lucky). With DC, only the first half of that sentence applies. There are also problems with corrosion and as you say, with arcing, so high voltage DC is best avoided.
But low voltage DC is fine. I built an outbuilding, which is powered from a 35 amp 12 volt power supply (housed in the garage). The lights work fine, car accessories all work fine, everything is safe and if I need 240 volts, I simply plug an inverter in.
"Bloody helll" hahahahaha 😆 😂
Glad you seem to know what you are doing! I was a little afraid when you bridged the a-PFC with wires and solder and added the lamp as a fuse and plugged it in. The lamp is a good short circuit indicator and protects from heavy explosions :-) I wouldn't even start trying to repair this when i saw the black burnt area on the board. I have a lot of the old laptop power supplies and they tend to last very long in my experience.
Btw: these cases open much easier when you cut around the edge with a sharp knife (carpet cutter) and then pry it open with chisel or similar. I put it into a wise to have it handy and safe.
"En modo de espera" in spanish is "standby mode". Thanks for your videos !
Thanks for the info ;)
The way he says “power factor correction” is super satisfying.
hello, you can use isopropyl alcohol on benzin on the sides.. just squirt there and it will destroy the glue and will be very easy to open
"Your waveforms are crappy!"
-The Cat In the Shoebox
This is pure gold in information. I subscribed to your channel also love your accent!
May I suggest, to open that kind of adaptor, use some fuel, like car petrol fuel and drips it to the joint, all around the joint, wait a bit then open it with little effort
I use that way to open numerous laptop adaptor and the case still intact and nice
I put these welded cases in the freezer for a few hours. Then a few light taps with the edge of a small hammer at the joint, and the weld breaks easily while it's at about -20°C or below.
@@Ormaaj Yes, in about 80% of the cases it works flawlessly. Sometimes the crack slightly leaves the joint, but still better that a mm of missing material because of the Dremeling. It can be glued together again with epoxy or superglue.
I had to open an even bigger (around 180W ) laptop supply, and surprisingly, it had special headed screws! It was a HP brand. But the shielding and the amount of resin was almost the same!
I opened those powersupplies with a hairdryer😂
I've got a defective power supply from one of my network switches and I'll give it a try.
It might not work if the plastic is very hard or thick
(sorry for bad english)
@@oliwier000b I'll give it a try anyway. It is a very small power supply for a wall socket and I think the plastic is about 1 mm strong. I'll let you know whether it worked out well. 🙂
BTW: I'm not a native English speaker either.
Simply excellent! Thank you.👍
Keep up your fantastic work!!
I never miss any of your educational video 👌👌👌
Nice clear explanation, very interesting.
There is tip to open pc chargers like this it's by using paint thiner(maybe isopropyl alcohol work too) it's much better and clean way to open such chargers hope it help
I use a kitchen knife and a pen-blowtorch. Heat knife, slice through plastic.
@@vylbird8014 it will do the job but it leaves marks on the plastic
As an Slovak I'm finding your dialect super-hilarious :) thank you for your time and work on your vids :)
As a Slovak ..... (we only use an when the following word begins with a vowel!)
@@SpeccyMan Or... when we are an Slovak.
Leave him alooooone! ;)
@@SpeccyMan I'm not native EN speaker, thanks for correcting me anyway! :)
"Bloody Hellllll...." T-Shirt..lol
yo could you imagine? :D
@@tyonorshapzc7tjfvb7-caz _bloody hell_ *BRIGDE RECTIFAYAH!!!*
Nice video! It helped me to understand reverse engineering a little bit more for trouble shooting problems
The BOOM is also my experience when trying to repair these power supplies!
When short on space I tried to repair one on my mattress, it went BOOM and almost set fire to it. Always keep your fire extinguisher ready!
My 12 year old DVD Burner is a LITEON, they're usually very reliable, mine still works fine. Didn't know they made laptop power supplies, meh. Nice to see you still making great videos :) Stay safe and have a happy holidays :)
Great - as always, by the way - you've just made another very informative video. Thanks! :)
Love your work brother ... very entertaining
I had some success opening these by a vise. You can exert great force with fine control. Usually if you press just one half shell, then the welds break, just have to guess the correct half :-)
Thank you for the amazing explanation of the power factor correction circuit. 👍
Awesome troubleshooting, knowledge and dialect :D
You can put petrol on the edges then it should open easier
will it soften/melt the plastic ?
@@great__success No. It will melt whatever that is that holds them together
@@kacpreusz9911 hopefully it won't explode all over and catch fire, assuming the fault came back
@@kacpreusz9911 It will not melt anything,just dissolve it.
NICE VID SIR. I usually repair chargers like this and I found the explanation very usefull
2:26 Finnish text spotted 👍 Greetings from Finland 👍
Bloody hell what disaster happened here
Best line 😂😂
I have this exact brand power supply with my very old laptop from 2005 and it still works well and it was plugged in for at least 13 years non stop and probably it was the original adapter.
Tank you very much for the quality video and one with professional job, good luck for the repairing.
Pretty good and visual explanation how PFC works, good job :) Shame about power supply being unrepairable.
It's interesting to see the difference between modern power supplies and the cheap Chinese ones you normally analyze, this ones have mosfets and ics everywhere.
Can still be made by the same manufacturer, providing a well made version and then, for those demanding the absolute cheapest rubbish, they do a version with all the expensive "optional" safety and power reduction parts removed to cut cost. The active PFC and the filtering is always the first to go, as that uses the most expensive parts, and does not actually prevent the supply from operating.
You often see the first version have all the parts, then with time and the buyer pushing for "lower price, only concerned with price", the manufacturer will replace these expensive parts with either wire links, or not populate, then respin the board to not have them at all (that link costs money to solder in) and send it out. Don't blame the Chinese OEM for supplying the customer with what they want, at the price they want to pay. Same manufacturer can also supply a part that will be space rated, or which is meant for industrial use and long life, but will cost more.
5:19 conclusion:
Once it goes black, it never goes back.
Great practical explanation.
very informative, always good to learn something, and for the power supply, the magic smoke escaped from it, like dave would say. ;)
Excellent video again, thanks! At first I missed your cat and was relieved when he(?) appeared at the end :)
She
When I saw that 0.05 ohm resistor burned or cracked or smoked next step is replace the driver PFC , all components depends by that resistor.There it must have around 1.1V when it is interrupted there is 316 - 320v and everything blow up .
Thank you very much for the good explanation
Thanks vor that awesome Video.I learned a lot!
So basically, the R050 had either got thermal shock (cracked from heat stresses, rare tho.) or had shattered from vibration shock (dropped).
Stored energy in the PFC inductor had nowhere to go so flashed over trying to return energy back to the coil (conservation of energy... has to go somewhere, in this case as a high voltage spark).
one of many classic PFC failure modes.
Usually these are tied to the main switch IC where if the PFC chip doesn't send an enable to the main switcher, then the main switcher stays off. Also, the spike in voltage from that arc may of killed the main IC and main mosfet anyway.
The other common PSU failures are when the main primary filter cap fails and too high a ripple is given to the main switch IC causing latch-up thus creating a short-path through the main transformer, through the mosfet, through the current sense resistor and anything else in it's path... usually lending to a shorted FET and in many cases a shorted fet-driver in the IC too.
If the resistor blew first wouldn't the energy in the PFC inductor just go into the main capacitor?
>the R050 had either got thermal shock (cracked from heat stresses, rare tho.)
I wonder if bad solder joint would have similar effect - creating a spark gap.
@@eDoc2020 True in the case of this design, the energy goes into the main capacitor since the resistor isn't measuring current to the capacitor but instead the current through the transistor in this implementation.
@@stanimir4197 That's also possible. a bad solder joint on the diode could've caused too high a voltage spike across the transistor at just the right moment and the voltage became high enough to arc across the diode and crack at enough current to short the diode too.
Also, was watching late last night so I didn't process the fact the resistor was measuring the switching current and not the feed through current thus the diode failing as it's in the path where energy gets sent.
Probably other failure modes too... i.e. a cosmic ray was strong enough to latch-up the fet driver causing high current that blew the resistor and then the high field strength dumped too high a current into the main capacitor melting the diode internally... and so on.
23:52 spark in the same spot where it started the first time between two pins. Bye Bye power supply.
And smoke at the controller chip, 2 video frames later
That’s probably what what damaged it
Delta are LiteOn are the most trusted PSU manufacturer for me. Never seen bad design from them although there might be an occasional bad unit
Best Regards Mr. DiodGoneWild, U R truly talented.
Another entertaining video, thanks...top man for SMPS.
I have found that after a burn up, the pcb material can act as a short.
thanks for your explananions, they help me understand better switched power supplies!
Your accent is so unique !
awesome tutorial, definitely better than most clickbait's and annoying fakes
Great guy, and super nice cat ! Thank you for your work.
In my opinion, the resistor connected to the earth is to limit the earth fault current, so that the fault won't causes the power supply enclosure to explode, but still enough to causes the circuit breaker to operate. Or it could be to suppress a earth looping current which can causes interference in analog instruments, especially audio equipment (hum/buzz noises).
Still, excellent video!
I love all his bloody hell video.
petrol or paint thinner painted around the seams loosens up the glue no need for violence... love your stuff keep it up
my best kind of videos thank you 😍
Thx sir 😊 good work
From Morocco 😊
Hi Daniel, for the next repair: a good way to open this is to put a long knife on each side and hit it with a hammer. After some iterations most power supplies will eventually open with the least possible damage. Thank you for the great video Daniel!
Hello, you might wanna try freezer spray to open that kind of ulstrasonic welded plastic cases. Just to give an idea. Thank you for your explanatory videos and in depth trials.
Have a nice day!
Love your videos, you are very clever, thank you
In this case, the diode really gone wild :)
Creative info, thanks for sharing :)
love this guy excellent tut. love the way he speak hehe
I cannot stand his way of speaking but I respect his knowledge on electronics
Yes the narration is the best.
Just as everyone else points out, great video! I wish I could have such a bright mind I could learn this so fluently! It's interesting to see how LiteOn puts some extra money on to make a bit better power supply, but it still surprises me that it failed. I guess, if you can't tell, there's not much to ask for. I haven't listened fully this whole time so maybe you mention it and I'm just half way through the video. Thanks!
Blown a hole in it.
The video is getting to bloody loooong
So interesting, and entertaining, thank you😃
Good,very good diagnostics.
Just put some gasolin/petrol in the welded plastic joint, may be petrol can loosen the joints... I use once before to open a 12 volt 2 amp wall adapter... 😊
My failure mode analysis is as follows:
Power supply is running at near full load when the mains plug develops a bad connection for a couple of cycles. The high load ensures the boost capacitor is rapidly discharged by the flyback supply. The NTC's are still hot and a very low resistance. When the mains plug makes a connection again there is no inrush current limiting resistance. This causes the boost inductor to saturate. When the PFC MOSFET switches on the saturated boost inductor causes a massive current pulse through the MOSFET, causing it to fail short circuit. The shorted MOSFET causes the two conducting bridge rectifier diodes to fail also. The failed MOSFET also destroys the control IC as the gate oxide is ruptured by the high voltage.
Great work, great video. Good knowledge. Thank you very much....
And very informative... Thanks
The PFC MOSFET was a special type, conducting permanently at all leads 😅
A semiconductor that lost the semi ;).
@@DiodeGoneWild
*Conductor*: I lost my "Semi".
*Semi*: your days are gone. I am heading towards "Super ones".
*SuperConductors*: you are wellcome. We will change the history by replacing our business with *SuperSemi*. 😎
I love This fabulous films! Thanks !
You forgot to change the cap (450V). If the diode in the PFC is gone and the bridge rectifier also then the cap become AC Power and the current destroy the NTC. Is also good practice to change the regulation chip of the following transistor if this is gone. The regulation circuit exploded because of a voltage above the chip limit. For repair you have to replace all components of the primer side. Only High resistors and caps (foil) have a survival chance.
@DiodeGoneWild -
Note: the C5/C6 "Mickymouse"/"Kleeblatt" plug is rated for 2.5 Amps , a 3 amps British fuse would be the better choice I guess
thank you very much for the detailed explanation. i have always wondered why there's 380v on the primary side of some smps instead of 320v
380v from boost converter from apfc
That's one wild diode
I was today years old when I learned how to open these easily. Apparently the glue holding them together can be dissolved with a solvent such as ethanol or lighter fuel. Dribble along the seams, wait a minute or so, then tap to open. #yourewelcome
To open something like this my dear you put some little petrol (benzen) or tener and let it 10 minutes wil open very easy