Looking great! Running new wire is a good idea should be no problem for a air force guy. HA HA you will be wetting a line in no time. See you next week
So I've seen some guys do something different with holes and waterproofing... Cut a hole a couple sizes larger than you need, fill with thickened resin or epoxy, let set then drill the appropriate sized hole in that. That way you're drilling through the resin or epoxy only and there's no air gaps or areas where water can seep through. I've seen that more for thru-hull stuff but I can't see how it'd hurt doing it everywhere else for wolaterproof's sake so long as you have the ability to back the hole somehow so the resin doesnt just leak out the other side.. Hope it helps! Enjoying your videos! It's exciting and inspiring!
This is what I did regarding the fuel tank install in my 1972 Formula 233. I ripped 3 inch pvc down the middle and glassed it to the bottom of the centerline of the hull. The forward bulkhead sits on top of that and so does the rear bulkhead. it's all peanut buttered in. The aluminum tank is suspended in midair by being screwed to fiberglass plates that were epoxied to the stringers. That way no screws penetrated the plywood stringers. Then 6# 2 part foam is poured around the tank locking it in place. BTW, that is per USCG standards. Then I sanded the foam flush with the top of the tank. Next step is to lay chopped strand mat on top of the tank and foam with the glass rolling up the sides of the bulkheads and stringers. work the chopped strand as close to the fittings in the top of the tank as you can. Then cut out a small opening in top of the rear bulkhead and glass it to waterproof it. Then roll gelcoat with wax on top of it all. That way any water that ends up getting into the fuel tank area can exit out the top of the bulkhead and end up in the bilge.
Very nicely done, Chief. Better keep your mouth closed about repairing the Grady White yourself around the dock, unless you just want to run a fiberglass business in your retirement 😉 👍
Nice work Chief! Can I suggest to see if you can install a flapper valve to prevent water backflowing from the rear bilge into the forward section through that new pipe? It won’t need to perfectly seal, just enough to stop free flowing water. I’m looking forward to that beautiful fuel tank going in! Keep up the great work!
Wow such great progress can’t wait to see how the tank goes in. Just something to think about is the wiring in the back could also be for the motors. If I remember correctly the shift a throttle cables will be back there also. The battery cables should be back there also. Great work and your getting close. Thanks, Tim
Hey senior. Been away and just got caught up. For pre-mixing your 2 cycle make sure you a religious user of Sta-Bil. It will keep the oil and gas from separating in the tank and give you up to 2 years of storage time in the tank.
Found you just under a week ago and have binged watched the complete GW series. You've done and amazing resto! Look forward to the day she gets 'wet'. Also have 2 boys both in the AF, one has been in for 11 years now, probably a lifer. He's over the pond right now. The other has been in 8 years and in TX now. I've been a mechanic for over 40 years now. And I don't know if I should say Thank you or well you know....I've been searching ads around me for a "project" boat but on a smaller size. LOL
Hey joe, thanks for joining us, sounds like you have a big AF family, it was good to me, hopefully it’s good to your sons… hope you find the perfect boat!
Glad you decided to make a way for water to get out from under helm. Check with your engine manufacturer that you can mix oil and fuel some 2 strokes need oil injection, they use it to direct inject oil to crank shaft. Not all do this but some do and it will cause crank to sieze if it needs it and no longer has it.
The Grady is looking awesome, Chief. One thing you may want to consider when mixing 2-cycle fuel for your soon to be rebuilt Evinrudes: I don’t know how big your new fuel tank is, but mixed 2-stroke fuel may not have a shelf life as long as straight gas before it turns into nasty, jelled, ick, you can’t use.
If possible reach out too GW or try and locate a wiring harness ! Then make a complete new one with no cuts or splices in between ! That way there is no power loss or a place for resistance too alter your gauges or any other electronics ! Keep up the good work
Chief, what a fantastic job you have done on the Boat so far, even for an Air Force guy, lol. Good job on the tank support platform, it's going to be great.
Chief I would take a second and pause on the "mixed" fuel in the tank. If your motors are post 1996 you should do some specific research on your VRO for your specific motors. I've ran an offshore boat for years using the oil injection, even setting off my low oil alarm a couple of times. Most motors have a low oil injection alarm as well. When I bought my first off shore boat, I told the mechanic I hired to do the sea trials that I was considering disabling the oil injection, because I am guessing like you I had heard to many horror stories, he laughed and said I was a fool ( He has been in business for 50 years so I took his advice). Its been 7 years since and the boat is running strong without ever having an issue. and now I know the thought of trying to mix oil in the 80 gallons I put in the boat before an offshore trip would just never have worked. Anyway, I get it if you do, I was going to do the same thing, just because it felt safer. But many of the blown motors were blamed on VRO and was actually some other mechanical failure. a great resource to post that question on your specific motor is "the hull truth".....unbelievably great job on the boat tho, awesome to watch the progress!
Have you given any thoughts to adding some easy accessible rigging tubes before you close the deck. My 22 Fisherman has a rigging tube along the starboard chine. It's full and getting stuff in/out is a chore even with a snake tape. Builders typically don't give a lot of though of future re-wiring, running cables and transducer stuff to the helm. Something to ponder.
I noticed the first part of the video was video frozen but audio good. Same thing happened to me editing. It’s the computer processor hitting 100%. Maybe you were using a laptop. Great videos.
Hey Dennis thanks! Engines are coming soon! Hoping to fire them up soon! I would like to hook them to the existing wiring harness to start them but we will see!
Ok, good work, but sorry to say you really do need a drain plug for the fuel tank section. Right now, you have no way to evacuate any water buildup. At this point, you could drill one from the bilge forward into the compartment and just put in a small piece of PVC with a drain plug to fit so you at least have a way to check it periodically. Where is that PVC pipe going or what is it doing that is in the middle....before you installed the second PVC drain? I missed what that one was for. Also, would have recommended you place some fiberglass mat straps over the PVC pipe in the floor to keep it from slapping the hull when hitting waves. They will make a lot of noise.
Soooo the fuel has a bung to keep the fuel from going in the ocean, you can pull the plug into the section with the pump. The extra pipe is for the middle section that did not drain anywhere before. Yes, if you watched the video you saw me make a fiberglass strap, good suggestion.
@@shotslife Sorry, not getting the fuel bung thing. What else don’t want us if there is a fuel leak, is for fuel to get into bilge. If it does, it goes boom. What I am saying is there is no exit for water to drain out of the fuel tank compartment.
@@Grady252 I’m in agreement with Grady. If water or fuel gets into the compartment you’ll need a way to drain in when out of the water. Otherwise if fuel gets in that compartment you will have a chance to know it as well. Additionally you can get bilge sniffer devices that can electronically monitor closed spaces if your concerned about leaking of fuel or it’s vapor settling into the lower compartments of your boat.
I agree with the need to drain water from fuel tank compartment. Hole on floor at stern with a plug would do it. If not, salt water wil kill that tank quickly
Can't you drill a hole in the bottom of the boat. Water will flow right Out. Lmao. You might have to put a bung in that too.. Hey bung here, bung there, bung everywhere. Bung bung bung. Lol, 😂😂😂
Looking good. You’ll probably offend some Evinrude/Johnson purists by deleting the VRO. When those systems fail, they actually over oil the carbs. Those are good motors, albeit thirsty. Keep up the good work sir!
Ive been watching the series from the start and admit i may have missed a couple, but i am confused. At the end you laid the board down for the tank to sit on and then say you left it so that water can run down on either side. Problem being you have completely sealed off that compartment now with two pass throughs neither of which address the tank compartment. So hows the water going to get out of the tank compartment??? If there is no way for that water to be evacuated then you are going to be accumulating water into that compartment every time you wash down the deck or it rains or water splashes into the boat, and that is a LOT of extra weight that you will be carrying around until ultimately the water reaches the top of the tank, unless of course you plan to completely fiber glass and seal off the lid to the tank area. But that doesn't make much sense as you need to have access to that area should you need to quickly be able to work on/ diagnosis an issue. I realize some people are concerned about gas getting into the water, but unfortunately that's kind of the nature of the beast, and something you should not have to even be worried about for a long time with a brand new tank.
Ok, so there is a tube to the rear bilge pump, I probably need to show everyone, some one suggested I seal it off which is what I was discussing in the video. Now all three chambers can be drained.
Gotta say Chief, when you bought this boat, I thought you would have it on the water last summer. Who knew how bad it was and how much work it would take to get it to this point? 🍻 Here is to a summer of 2023 launch of The Chiefs Minnow.
It's getting excited now, Shot!! Been a follower since day #1. Did it miss it or did you miss putting another layer of resin on the front and back inside the tank compartment? I thought you were needing one more from last episode. Keep it up!
I rewatched the previous episode to this one and we ended with you finishing the second coat on the front and the final on the back so we only missed out on the third coat on the front/ closed off section. No biggie! Cheers from "buried in snow, northern Minnesota"
Im not trying to be negative but If it was me I would drill a drain hole on the stern bulkhead in the "coffin box" and put a brass tube in it. Then simply put a drain plug on the back side of that bulkhead. You will only have one time to worry about a fuel spill but you will have hundreds of times where water on the deck will find its way in the coffin box. Water surrounding an aluminum tank can cause electrolysis and eat that tank up very quickly. One other thing. The screws you put in the plywood base will surely work their way back out and will rub a hole in your tank from the pounding that hull will take. I would epoxy it down...
@Shots Life I've been a tractor trailer driver for the last 40 years that hauls alot of hazardous material in the form of metal drums. Trust me nails in pallets will and have worked their way loose due the trailer bouncing and rub a hole through the drum.... this will really ruin your day, trust me
Okay did I Not Mention piano hanging that last board. Or leaving a cut out hinged.. So before your tank is in You already need to get in where you closed up Gees Bud.
why not tie in a short pipe to the one in the middle? Just wondering a y to a 45 degree and right up the side to the other compartment and then it just ties in to one drain. still late but then again I am saying this at the beginning of watching. so who know you might already thought of that.
@@shotslife i only saw two drain tubes from before the box and three sections in the box yet no drains from the box or bilges in those sections. so thinking that those three sections in the bottom of the box needs to be drained...how do they get drained.
That grey fuel line is crap. The ethanol will cause the liner in the fuel line to delaminate and clog your carbs! Don’t use the grey fuel line, whatever you do!!!!!!
Looking great! Running new wire is a good idea should be no problem for a air force guy. HA HA you will be wetting a line in no time. See you next week
Lol, we shall see! Hahahahah, thanks brother, see you next week!
Looking Damn Fine Sir. She will be better then new when you're finished.
Thanks Jack!
So I've seen some guys do something different with holes and waterproofing...
Cut a hole a couple sizes larger than you need, fill with thickened resin or epoxy, let set then drill the appropriate sized hole in that. That way you're drilling through the resin or epoxy only and there's no air gaps or areas where water can seep through. I've seen that more for thru-hull stuff but I can't see how it'd hurt doing it everywhere else for wolaterproof's sake so long as you have the ability to back the hole somehow so the resin doesnt just leak out the other side.. Hope it helps! Enjoying your videos! It's exciting and inspiring!
Yeah that’s a good suggestion, I have heard that before, haven’t tried it yet though… makes total sense though.
This is what I did regarding the fuel tank install in my 1972 Formula 233.
I ripped 3 inch pvc down the middle and glassed it to the bottom of the centerline of the hull.
The forward bulkhead sits on top of that and so does the rear bulkhead. it's all peanut buttered in.
The aluminum tank is suspended in midair by being screwed to fiberglass plates that were epoxied to the stringers. That way no screws penetrated the plywood stringers.
Then 6# 2 part foam is poured around the tank locking it in place. BTW, that is per USCG standards.
Then I sanded the foam flush with the top of the tank.
Next step is to lay chopped strand mat on top of the tank and foam with the glass rolling up the sides of the bulkheads and stringers. work the chopped strand as close to the fittings in the top of the tank as you can.
Then cut out a small opening in top of the rear bulkhead and glass it to waterproof it.
Then roll gelcoat with wax on top of it all.
That way any water that ends up getting into the fuel tank area can exit out the top of the bulkhead and end up in the bilge.
Man you went all out, nice job!
Very nicely done, Chief. Better keep your mouth closed about repairing the Grady White yourself around the dock, unless you just want to run a fiberglass business in your retirement 😉 👍
Lol, nooooooooo fiberglass is for the Pros! 😂, I’m lucky to have serviced this! It’s was fun but….
Cruising right along now .. looking good
Thanks Dave!
OH OH, STARTING TO GET FANCY... LOL.. KEEP SAFE AND WELL...
Hahahahaha! Have a great week Bob!!!
@@shotslife U 2
Nice work Chief! Can I suggest to see if you can install a flapper valve to prevent water backflowing from the rear bilge into the forward section through that new pipe? It won’t need to perfectly seal, just enough to stop free flowing water. I’m looking forward to that beautiful fuel tank going in! Keep up the great work!
Now that’s an interesting idea.. hmmmm
Congratulations, another giant leap forward!!
Thanks Nena! Hey wait… you removed the D!
Looks Awesome 👌...Can't wait for the maiden voyage...
Me too brother!
Cant wait until next weeks video.
Thanks Scott!
Wow such great progress can’t wait to see how the tank goes in. Just something to think about is the wiring in the back could also be for the motors. If I remember correctly the shift a throttle cables will be back there also. The battery cables should be back there also. Great work and your getting close.
Thanks,
Tim
Yes Sir, I think your right about all that, going to be a fun mess to figure out!
looking great chief 👏👏👏👍👍
Thanks brother!
We really enjoy all the various projects you are working on. Thank you for sharing it all with us!
Not to mention those beautiful gutters you have!
Thanks OConner Family!
Brilliant work Chief can’t wait to see it on the water
Thanks Thomas!
Very nice pal! Great idea. Great execution.
Thanks brother!
Hey senior. Been away and just got caught up. For pre-mixing your 2 cycle make sure you a religious user of Sta-Bil. It will keep the oil and gas from separating in the tank and give you up to 2 years of storage time in the tank.
Yeah, I use sta-bill all the time in my boats… still going back forth on the VROs
Clean work! Great attention to the small details.
Thanks Wade!!
Looking good! Enjoyed your time lapse shots. Looking forward to more of those.
Thanks John
This is great. So close to that tank going in! I'm actually really excited about wiring videos. My first boat I rewired and really enjoyed the puzzle.
Awesome, it will be time soon for you to be teach Baby H!
Found you just under a week ago and have binged watched the complete GW series. You've done and amazing resto! Look forward to the day she gets 'wet'. Also have 2 boys both in the AF, one has been in for 11 years now, probably a lifer. He's over the pond right now. The other has been in 8 years and in TX now. I've been a mechanic for over 40 years now. And I don't know if I should say Thank you or well you know....I've been searching ads around me for a "project" boat but on a smaller size. LOL
Hey joe, thanks for joining us, sounds like you have a big AF family, it was good to me, hopefully it’s good to your sons… hope you find the perfect boat!
Getting there!!!
Slow but sure!
It is looking good.
Thanks Truth!
Looking great!
Thanks William!
Glad you decided to make a way for water to get out from under helm. Check with your engine manufacturer that you can mix oil and fuel some 2 strokes need oil injection, they use it to direct inject oil to crank shaft. Not all do this but some do and it will cause crank to sieze if it needs it and no longer has it.
Good info..
The Grady is looking awesome, Chief. One thing you may want to consider when mixing 2-cycle fuel for your soon to be rebuilt Evinrudes: I don’t know how big your new fuel tank is, but mixed 2-stroke fuel may not have a shelf life as long as straight gas before it turns into nasty, jelled, ick, you can’t use.
Interesting to know
@@shotslife Just sell the old Evinrudes and buy some decent 4-strokes. 2-strokes stink too much.
@@Carbonfly69 150 HP Suzuki 4 strokers retail for $10.3k each. I don't think it's in his finances.
Looking really good!
Thanks a lot Mike!
It's come a long way Shot, look forward to the day toy splash it for the first time! - Ski
Hey Ski! Thank you Sir, me too!
If possible reach out too GW or try and locate a wiring harness ! Then make a complete new one with no cuts or splices in between ! That way there is no power loss or a place for resistance too alter your gauges or any other electronics ! Keep up the good work
That would be awesome, but $$$ if not. I will do what I can.. but we shall see. Thanks brother!
Chief, what a fantastic job you have done on the Boat so far, even for an Air Force guy, lol. Good job on the tank support platform, it's going to be great.
Hahahhahaha, see we AF guys can learn! Lol thanks!
@@shotslife Maybe you can do a $25 seaplane next to use your AF skills! LOL.
👌 awesome job mate.
Thanks Russ!
Chief I would take a second and pause on the "mixed" fuel in the tank. If your motors are post 1996 you should do some specific research on your VRO for your specific motors. I've ran an offshore boat for years using the oil injection, even setting off my low oil alarm a couple of times. Most motors have a low oil injection alarm as well. When I bought my first off shore boat, I told the mechanic I hired to do the sea trials that I was considering disabling the oil injection, because I am guessing like you I had heard to many horror stories, he laughed and said I was a fool ( He has been in business for 50 years so I took his advice). Its been 7 years since and the boat is running strong without ever having an issue. and now I know the thought of trying to mix oil in the 80 gallons I put in the boat before an offshore trip would just never have worked. Anyway, I get it if you do, I was going to do the same thing, just because it felt safer. But many of the blown motors were blamed on VRO and was actually some other mechanical failure. a great resource to post that question on your specific motor is "the hull truth".....unbelievably great job on the boat tho, awesome to watch the progress!
I’ll take your comments into consideration. Thanks!
Have you given any thoughts to adding some easy accessible rigging tubes before you close the deck. My 22 Fisherman has a rigging tube along the starboard chine. It's full and getting stuff in/out is a chore even with a snake tape. Builders typically don't give a lot of though of future re-wiring, running cables and transducer stuff to the helm. Something to ponder.
I’ll have to look that up, I don’t even know what a rigging tube is..
@@shotslife Just a pvc pipe that wires, cables and such runs through.
I noticed the first part of the video was video frozen but audio good. Same thing happened to me editing. It’s the computer processor hitting 100%. Maybe you were using a laptop. Great videos.
Interesting… I’ll have to look again..
Hey Shots, My aluminum fuel tank had some kind of a green epoxy paint on it. lasted 37 years in the salt,. just saying.
Interesting… I’ll have to look that up.
Looks great! Nice, neat work. Just wondering, have you ever tried firing up your 2 outboards? What are your plans for them? Do you foresee rebuilds?
Hey Dennis thanks! Engines are coming soon! Hoping to fire them up soon! I would like to hook them to the existing wiring harness to start them but we will see!
Progress!
One step at a time, we are getting her!
Ok, good work, but sorry to say you really do need a drain plug for the fuel tank section. Right now, you have no way to evacuate any water buildup. At this point, you could drill one from the bilge forward into the compartment and just put in a small piece of PVC with a drain plug to fit so you at least have a way to check it periodically. Where is that PVC pipe going or what is it doing that is in the middle....before you installed the second PVC drain? I missed what that one was for.
Also, would have recommended you place some fiberglass mat straps over the PVC pipe in the floor to keep it from slapping the hull when hitting waves. They will make a lot of noise.
Soooo the fuel has a bung to keep the fuel from going in the ocean, you can pull the plug into the section with the pump. The extra pipe is for the middle section that did not drain anywhere before. Yes, if you watched the video you saw me make a fiberglass strap, good suggestion.
@@shotslife Sorry, not getting the fuel bung thing. What else don’t want us if there is a fuel leak, is for fuel to get into bilge. If it does, it goes boom. What I am saying is there is no exit for water to drain out of the fuel tank compartment.
@@Grady252
I’m in agreement with Grady. If water or fuel gets into the compartment you’ll need a way to drain in when out of the water. Otherwise if fuel gets in that compartment you will have a chance to know it as well. Additionally you can get bilge sniffer devices that can electronically monitor closed spaces if your concerned about leaking of fuel or it’s vapor settling into the lower compartments of your boat.
I agree with the need to drain water from fuel tank compartment. Hole on floor at stern with a plug would do it. If not, salt water wil kill that tank quickly
Man it’s coming together! How long do you think before you get her splashed? 1-2 months? Can’t wait! 🍻
Lol, I doubt that quick but we shall see… too many other projects at the same time!
Is your bilge mounted...sideways? just looked like that in the video....did it come that way? How does that work?
It’s not mounted, it’s just laying in there… your eyes do not deceive you! Lol!
Can't you drill a hole in the bottom of the boat.
Water will flow right Out. Lmao.
You might have to put a bung in that too..
Hey bung here, bung there, bung everywhere.
Bung bung bung.
Lol, 😂😂😂
Hahahahahhaha, that would drain it for sure! Lol
Looking good. You’ll probably offend some Evinrude/Johnson purists by deleting the VRO. When those systems fail, they actually over oil the carbs. Those are good motors, albeit thirsty. Keep up the good work sir!
Yeah I figure half will say great, half will call me a loser but that’s ok, all part of it!
There is a guy in CT that rebuilds and RE-sells lots of old OMC engines, he disables the VRO on all of them and has the owner premix the fuel.
Did you pressure test all your plumbing Kev? (Check for leaks)
Most of it I have but not the back drains yet
@@shotslife they dont need pressure testing bud just your fuel and water 1s 👍
Ive been watching the series from the start and admit i may have missed a couple, but i am confused. At the end you laid the board down for the tank to sit on and then say you left it so that water can run down on either side. Problem being you have completely sealed off that compartment now with two pass throughs neither of which address the tank compartment. So hows the water going to get out of the tank compartment??? If there is no way for that water to be evacuated then you are going to be accumulating water into that compartment every time you wash down the deck or it rains or water splashes into the boat, and that is a LOT of extra weight that you will be carrying around until ultimately the water reaches the top of the tank, unless of course you plan to completely fiber glass and seal off the lid to the tank area. But that doesn't make much sense as you need to have access to that area should you need to quickly be able to work on/ diagnosis an issue. I realize some people are concerned about gas getting into the water, but unfortunately that's kind of the nature of the beast, and something you should not have to even be worried about for a long time with a brand new tank.
Ok, so there is a tube to the rear bilge pump, I probably need to show everyone, some one suggested I seal it off which is what I was discussing in the video. Now all three chambers can be drained.
Gotta say Chief, when you bought this boat, I thought you would have it on the water last summer. Who knew how bad it was and how much work it would take to get it to this point? 🍻 Here is to a summer of 2023 launch of The Chiefs Minnow.
Your not the only one brother, if I realized it was going to be this much I might not have taken it on! Lol!!
It's getting excited now, Shot!! Been a follower since day #1. Did it miss it or did you miss putting another layer of resin on the front and back inside the tank compartment? I thought you were needing one more from last episode. Keep it up!
Hmmmm, I did three layers, did I not add that footage? Now I’m going to ho back and look… so many times I “find video” that I could have used!
I rewatched the previous episode to this one and we ended with you finishing the second coat on the front and the final on the back so we only missed out on the third coat on the front/ closed off section. No biggie! Cheers from "buried in snow, northern Minnesota"
JUMP KEVIN JUUUUMP 😂
Hahahahhahhsha!
Im not trying to be negative but If it was me I would drill a drain hole on the stern bulkhead in the "coffin box" and put a brass tube in it. Then simply put a drain plug on the back side of that bulkhead. You will only have one time to worry about a fuel spill but you will have hundreds of times where water on the deck will find its way in the coffin box. Water surrounding an aluminum tank can cause electrolysis and eat that tank up very quickly. One other thing. The screws you put in the plywood base will surely work their way back out and will rub a hole in your tank from the pounding that hull will take. I would epoxy it down...
Interesting about the screws…
@Shots Life I've been a tractor trailer driver for the last 40 years that hauls alot of hazardous material in the form of metal drums. Trust me nails in pallets will and have worked their way loose due the trailer bouncing and rub a hole through the drum.... this will really ruin your day, trust me
He resined over them. Pallets are nailed. He’s good.
Got a name for her. FIXER UPPER. in glittery bubble letters.
Lol!
Okay did I Not
Mention piano hanging that last board.
Or leaving a cut out hinged..
So before your tank is in
You already need to get in where you closed up
Gees Bud.
Yup, can gain access by going under seat just didn’t want to fight it.
why not tie in a short pipe to the one in the middle? Just wondering a y to a 45 degree and right up the side to the other compartment and then it just ties in to one drain. still late but then again I am saying this at the beginning of watching. so who know you might already thought of that.
Good idea.. but past it now
@@shotslife yeah I saw later in the video. Just though less holes to drill in a boat might be a good idea.
Thought this project was done
Lol, hope so one day!
hate to be that guy...how do you drain the fuel tank area?
There is a drain tube to the rear bilge pump
@@shotslife i only saw two drain tubes from before the box and three sections in the box yet no drains from the box or bilges in those sections. so thinking that those three sections in the bottom of the box needs to be drained...how do they get drained.
Hey
Can't you pick up the pace up.
Ya know this boat is getting older by the minute..
Slow poke...lol
Hahahhaha, I’m trying! No one wants it on the water more than me! 😂😂😂😂
That grey fuel line is crap. The ethanol will cause the liner in the fuel line to delaminate and clog your carbs! Don’t use the grey fuel line, whatever you do!!!!!!
Interesting
I had black “fuel” hose and it dissolved on the inside. Gray hose is built for this new nasty junk gas.
I look forward to the day it lands in the water. 🚤
Me too!