What brand pyramid spots do you use? I use the ones by Standard Rivet. Though I've noticed the nickel plated brass ones start turning green on the tongs as the finish cracks when you bend the tongs. I may order some nickel plated steel ones to see if the finish cracks on that also. Not sure how easily they would rust. But I noticed the nickel plated brass ones starting to turn green after a few years. I'm thinking rust would look better than green. Though the nickel plated brass people say are more premium.
Standard Rivet is the ONLY North American company that makes these shapes. Everybody else you're buying from is just reselling SR products. The green oxidation is inevitable, but with steel, you still get rust, it'll just be red/orange instead of green. As you point out, this only happens on the underside to the legs (prongs) because they lose plating during setting. Cost wise, rolls of brass are 3x more expensive than steel rolls. I may have told this story before, but one of my earlier belt customers was mad when he thought his chrome/brass studs were cheap because he couldn't stick a magnet to it. So, now, I also have steel for magnet aficionados.
@@leatherpunk Which do you think are better pyramid spots, nickel plated brass or nickel plated steel? i.e. I'm not exactly sure why someone would pick one over the other. But I know the nickel plated brass is more expensive. I've bought mine directly from Standard Rivet as theirs look more classic to me compared to the flat/straight edges of other brands of pyramid spots.
@@colt5189 From the perspective of someone who has about a quarter million shapes in my stock, I prefer brass over steel because they're easier to set, less of a jolt on my foot when the prongs fold.
I've never done it, but you're going to be limited on where you can put studs on shoes, without taking the shoes apart. The most difficult part will be cutting your prong slits without cutting into other parts of the shoe, perhaps by stuffing other material in behind where you're cutting, to temporarily protect other parts of the shoe.
It's the same process, but those prongs tend to be shorter than the prongs on US made studs. So you may not have enough length on them to go all the way through.
I bet they are. Instead of supporting it with your thumb, try to find something that's firm enough, but will allow the prong to pass through, maybe a piece of hard Styrofoam. Or, you could make a thumb pad to minimize the discomfort. I made a thumb guard out of leather to protect against getting cut during certain leather tasks. I also have one for my palm when I'm using the awl repeatedly.
@@leatherpunk Thanks so much. I'll adopt one of your ways now. I think I'm guilty of instant gratification or rather doing things quickly and to heck with the dire consequences🤔Thank you again.
Take one stud and snip the legs leaving a tiny piece for each. You can use that one to easliy alighn and mark the holes with acuracy
Yes, good idea. It gets your shape closer to the leather so you can see a better perspective.
Great video! Clear and concise. Thank you :)
What brand pyramid spots do you use? I use the ones by Standard Rivet. Though I've noticed the nickel plated brass ones start turning green on the tongs as the finish cracks when you bend the tongs. I may order some nickel plated steel ones to see if the finish cracks on that also. Not sure how easily they would rust. But I noticed the nickel plated brass ones starting to turn green after a few years. I'm thinking rust would look better than green. Though the nickel plated brass people say are more premium.
Standard Rivet is the ONLY North American company that makes these shapes. Everybody else you're buying from is just reselling SR products.
The green oxidation is inevitable, but with steel, you still get rust, it'll just be red/orange instead of green. As you point out, this only happens on the underside to the legs (prongs) because they lose plating during setting.
Cost wise, rolls of brass are 3x more expensive than steel rolls. I may have told this story before, but one of my earlier belt customers was mad when he thought his chrome/brass studs were cheap because he couldn't stick a magnet to it. So, now, I also have steel for magnet aficionados.
@@leatherpunk Which do you think are better pyramid spots, nickel plated brass or nickel plated steel? i.e. I'm not exactly sure why someone would pick one over the other. But I know the nickel plated brass is more expensive.
I've bought mine directly from Standard Rivet as theirs look more classic to me compared to the flat/straight edges of other brands of pyramid spots.
@@colt5189 From the perspective of someone who has about a quarter million shapes in my stock, I prefer brass over steel because they're easier to set, less of a jolt on my foot when the prongs fold.
great vid! whats this machine you mentioned that you use for belts?
It's a footpress from standard rivet co. I have two videos about it on my channel.
Awesome! when you u do them professional and big quantities I know you use a rivet setter machine but how do you do the holes? This same way?
With the setting machine, the prongs drive into the leather on their own. So there's no prep work done to the leather, like there is in this video.
hey, what setting press/ dyes do you use? I am about to get a press bt wanna make sure I can set pyramids uk77, winder cone studs etc
I hand set btw extremely tedious making a bnch of belts
It's sold by Standard Rivet Co, Number 2 machine. The dies are sold by them as well.
What size studs are these?
They are 3/8".
Thanks for the video ☺️
How could I set these on shoes?
I've never done it, but you're going to be limited on where you can put studs on shoes, without taking the shoes apart. The most difficult part will be cutting your prong slits without cutting into other parts of the shoe, perhaps by stuffing other material in behind where you're cutting, to temporarily protect other parts of the shoe.
What if your studs have four prongs?
It's the same process, but those prongs tend to be shorter than the prongs on US made studs. So you may not have enough length on them to go all the way through.
@@leatherpunk That's the problem I'm running into. Where do you find US made studs? I can't find them easily.
@@Extreme_Horror_Phantom studsandspikes.com
I'm trying to put pyramid studs into soft plastic, but I'm stabbing my thumb with the sharp ends😢
I bet they are. Instead of supporting it with your thumb, try to find something that's firm enough, but will allow the prong to pass through, maybe a piece of hard Styrofoam. Or, you could make a thumb pad to minimize the discomfort. I made a thumb guard out of leather to protect against getting cut during certain leather tasks. I also have one for my palm when I'm using the awl repeatedly.
@@leatherpunk Thanks so much. I'll adopt one of your ways now. I think I'm guilty of instant gratification or rather doing things quickly and to heck with the dire consequences🤔Thank you again.
omg thank you