Tire Pressure for Winter Driving
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video we experiment with tire pressures in a Subaru Impreza on a packed snow and ice surface. Starting with street pressure, we incrementally drop 5psi at a time and test the vehicle to see what tire pressures give the best performance.
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0:31 finally an online counselor that will also teach me rally! 😂😂😂
Always feels good to talk about your feelings.
Wish we got snow to have some fun in.
no. you dont.
gets pretty irritating after the 3rd time you have to blow out the driveway in a day.
Seriously consider just walking out into the field some days and let the snow consume me.
we just had 4 inches of sludge here in Texas. no thanks.
Come to Canada eh?
No you don’t. It’s not fun
@@alfredthethird5202 I love snow. FWD cars become very fun to drive
Great tips! I run +3-4 over window sticker in winter tires on my daily, not for grip but for ride comfort. Your description of contact patch makes perfect sense. Funny, for economy you'd want the exact opposite (minimal contact patch).
Drove to Road America once for their winter autocross and forgot to change my tire pressure after the 6 hour commute. Still won, snow is wonderful.
This video speaks to the cyclocross bicycle racer part of my brain. We OBSESS about tire pressures; in 0.5 psi increments. After practice laps, riders are constantly interrogating each other. "What tires you running? Oh, really...hmmm...what pressure? How much do you weigh?" Friends answer, frenemies lie lie lie.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Finally a snow tire pressure video. It was a great as always.
My engine keeps making weird noises 😔
Wyatt Knox?
In many cars lower winter pressure is much better but on summer little more pressure is better because of corners and economy. My recommodation pressure is 2.1-2.5 in both front and back so i put 2,7 on 20 celsius on summer so it will automatically decrease for right winter pressure -> 2,5 minus 0,1 because of time on 0, 2,2 on -20. Colder it gets more hard your allseason tires come and more grip you need.
So i get along by pressuring my tires at least twise year.
Makes sense that you can drop the rear more. Stock pressure's based on GVWR/GAWR, which probably assumes passengers and some cargo in the trunk. Front's going to be a lot closer to GAWR than rear when it's just the driver.
An American driving on winter tires, what a rare and pleasant sight!
Also low tire pressure means a bad time when you got a pot hole.
I run lower in winter in alberta. As long as you dont have low profiles and dont let out too much it works fine
@@taylorforster9256 how much lower than factory recommendations?
Low pro wheels and potholes are bad mix..in Alberta and everywhere else
Also, tire pressure affects tire wear and fuel mileage. This video is great, for rally drivers, but yeahhhhhh, I still think 99% of people should use OEM recommendations
yep, fresh AT tires with that nice sharp shoulder profile do NOT want low pressure.
This is absolutely just for people who will be on snow/ice for their drive almost exclusively. Once you are back on tarmac in most places where they plow this would be downright dangerous, but if you are on icy roads all night this is logical
@@BaioWithMayo So we better carry a hand pump in a trunk.
Would it still overheat at -10 or -20C tho?
Wouldnt the air pressure rise with temperature fixing itself?
I gotta watch some tests. Someone has most likely already busted the myth or set a span of safe deviation. I was driving a slow leak at 1.6 bar many times. Fast and long
@@trollmcclure1884 I think the risk becomes more deformation than heat with tires that low on tarmac, like losing your bead from cornering too hard.
In most cases you can easily drop rear pressures from OEM on the road to get better wear profiles and better grip. (FWD/AWD)
What helps for rally car driving isn't necessarily what people want when their car is stuck in snow or ice. There's a concept out there that lower pressures can help, but oddly enough, I've never seen anyone in Canada get their vehicle unstuck by lowering the tire pressure. When we're stuck in snow or ice, we use shovels, traction aids, kitty litter, sand, salt, rocking action, etc.
Forget your "stage 69", this is the best mod a driver can do and it's free! Thanks for keeping it real.
oem pressure recomendations include people in the rear and some stuff in the trunk
He does mention that in the video.
Yep, and that's the problem if youre the only one in the car or just 2 front seats used.
I have always heard narrow wintertires is better for grip in snow. You said that this car used 195/60 R15, but you could fit 185/65 R15 with no problems. Can you explain if this is correct or false?
I second this question. I just put Blizzaks on my R53 Mini and I had the choice for 195/60 R15 or 175/65 R15 on 5.5" wides. The helpful folks at Tirerack suggested the 175s and thats what I went with but I've still been thinking about it.
Narrow tires are definitely better on snow and ice because they will cut through slush and fluffy snow better, hopefully getting the tread down to better grip.
We run the 195/60R15 on the rally school cars because they fit on the Subarus, Fiestas, and BMWs...
It's just a fleet decision so we can order tires in bulk and keep it super simple
@@TeamoneilrallyI bought a set of studded tires for my bike and rode them around all winter. They're very thin walled and have a narrow contact patch, with two sets of studs + two extra, empty row for stud, Great grip on all surfaces and cuts through thin snow, but when you get into heavy, icy snow, the tires are too thin to be able to ride on top and they create littles grooves that the tire wants to continue driving down, so the ride because incredibly bouncy and slow. I'd sink less with wider tires but I'd be slower in every other circumstance.
@@Teamoneilrally definitely...in deep, a light car can run narrower
@@Teamoneilrally thanks for this video. I’m confused with the idea of running narrower tires, yet dropping pressure which gives you more contact patch and less pressure per square inch. It seems like running higher pressure would increase the pressure per square inch and help the bite. That seems opposite of what you found out. I’m confused. :)
Super informative video
Love these videos.. I think a byproduct of lower tire pressure that's helps beyond the improved contact patch is the additional flex of the tread blocks helps clear the snow from them
Few more bits: - stock "door sticker" pressures don't work so well if one downsizes a lot tires going several steps narrower. The less air volume for same load/mass, higher pressure needed to support it.
- i wouldn't blindly look for pressures just from something out-of-context as weight distribution and decide pressures just from that, as there are several other variables at play, eg. suspension setup, square or staggered stock tire sizing, brake bias, electronic nannies tuning and so on. I'd trust stock pressure numbers for initial starting point for close to OE sized tires though, as even though manufacturer often chooses too understeery setup, it also has performed most testing with particular car for posted pressures to generally work well in most cases and with car weight distribution/suspension & alignment specifics/brake bias/nannies.
- imho some of excessive oversteer in this case also came that stock pressures might be better fit for hypothetical average passenger/cargo load, while rallied car probably has rather even stripped weight from mid & rear, while keeping similar weight in front with engine & tranny. And while some of stripped weight "returns" via rollcage, there is often much more weight removed from interior trim/seats/spare wheel then what rollcage weights. And there is probably heavy extra engine protection pan for rallied car.
- temps may play large role to what optimum pressures for most grip are, at least on ice, at least with street-legal studded tires. IIRC there was more gain from much higher then stock pressures to make studs stick out more from tire and chop into ice better for very cold temps (as street-legal means for studs to press/hide deeper into tire when on hard pavement, for less tarmac damage), but on very (relatively for winter) warm temps grip provided by rubber compound and sipes is more important, and lesser pressures will be grippier.
The last point hits home for me and pretty much tells me I should keep it at the factory psi as I never know what the weather will be like.
@@SawShankRedemption hmm, imho not quite. If one is competitive to some extent event, be it track day, rallying, auto-x, drifting and alike, it's very important to get pressures right, to maximize grip as "every second counts". Simple & cheap pressure gauge is very advisable to bring to such events to let out excess air, if needed.
But if it's about driving on public roads .. also by best practice worth checking pressures from time to time, just maybe obviously not as often :), as wrong pressures may add extra uneven tire wear, worsen fuel mileage, add handling glitches (if just for one wheel), especially on older cars w/o TPMS. For example, i'd consider checking pressures in cases like: - after tire shop mounted tires on wheel, as often they are careless with pumping right, - then after a week, if tire is not slowly leaking air, then, - per month, or - per 10-15deg ambient temp drop.
@@church493 I’m running studded Nokian Hakka’s. Do you think these would perform better on ice at lower pressures? I’m in Northern Alberta where the temperatures vary wildly.
@@SawShankRedemption Hmm .. that bit on higher pressures to push out studs from street legal studded tire was more for competitive use (comes from experiences of russian winter drifters on old RWD LADA-s :)). But if you don't participate into some driving on iced lake of drifting/rallying or alike events, i wouldn't bother for few reasons.
First - even in very nothern countries there still is some road plowing/salting type maintenance, so most mileage often still happens on tarmac, also snow covered roads probably more then pure ice. Too high pressure will reduce grip on tarmac/snow.
Second - if hakkas in US are similar to ones sold in Europe, then they are not so good with retaining studs (Contis & Michelins imho do better on this front). No need to accelerate rate of ripped out studs :).
And third - own lazyness :D. I have other things in life then adjusting pressures before every short drive. As i mentioned in initial post, imho checking pressures after purchase of new tires and after mount on wheels at tireshop .. after first week of driving, and once a month which coincides for big temp changes, like in beginning of winter, coldest mid of winter, end of winter, should be reasonably sufficient and be more frequent then 98% of majority drivers that never check their tire pressures at all unless TPMS light is lit :). For generic driving on public roads of varried pavement type at different temps and with different loads .. stick with "door sticker temps", just check if tire is not slowly leaking air initially, and add a bit extra when temp gets much colder.
Really good info in this video thank you, would have like to see how it performs with close to stock pressure in the front and matched pressure in the rear, just for comparison to your "happy place" pressure.
Just found your channel today and i'm binge watching everything and taking notes, thanks again guys!
Love your channel!
What about street legal studded tire on clean ice tracks? Is it better to boost up tire pressure on studded tire's to get thous spikes out and get more grip from them, will it bee better?
Of course with more tire pressure you lose some contact surface.
Sounds like we need to do another video real quick!
@@Teamoneilrally and also address the reasons tire rack says raise your psi 2 or 3
Because people are lazy and will never check/refill there tires in winter when it needs it, during winter.
@@aceline9087 not so. Read up - m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=168
For civilian/non-racing street driving in winter, it is no longer advisable to lower cold tire pressures below vehicle mfgs. b-pillar spec. Even increasing pressure during winter - by 1-2psi over what is on that placard - is now considered acceptable practice.
I like to do 2 bar front, 3 bar rear, on my FWD honda so I can get it sideways real easy
i also do this on my fwd Nissan Sentra... i run around 1.85 bar in the front and 2.25 bar in the rear... it helps the car oversteer for the tightest corners, esp. on firm dirt roads
I put mcdonalds trays under the rear tires to go side ways
Thank You very much for your videos! Could You make subtitles with metric measurements? I live in Europe and sometimes difficult to understand. Thank You!
Great insights Wyatt, and thanks for the demo. I'm curious if you have any experience with a RWD vehicle and adding weight over the rear wheels - does the possible increased straight line traction offset the degradation of the mass to handling/braking and is there a tipping point ?
Looks like you had too much fun there.
I
Thanks for the video, very educational. Quick question: Can the same winter tire pressure principals be applied to Rallycross mud/dirt trails during the spring/summer months?
I'm not a professional, but I would say that, based on physics, you should keep the ratio roughly the same as you have them on snow (for your car, obviously) but bump the pressure up a little more because mud and dirt offer more traction than snow and ice. I think that makes sense, but you should probably hit up Quora or something to get answers from people with more experience than me. ;)
The issue with reducing tire pressure too low, is that you may debead your tire. The tire will separate from the wheel if you go too low. This is relative to how bumpy or grippy the surface is. Don't do this on tarmac, for example
THIS. At 16psi it's pretty close to atmospheric pressure (1 bar). Any lower and you're probably looking at ONLY the mechanical grip of the tire bead to the rim for holding on. Really risky for tire moving "sideways" imo.
Yeah in competition we run tubes in these tires for this reason. Again as stated in the video, this isn't for normal daily driving, just when you want the most grip possible. If you go around hitting rocks and curbs you will definitely get a flat, even with tubes in the tires.
@@JoelAz909 Gauge pressure would be atmospheric pressure plus the gauge reading, so not really. Admittedly 1bar isn't much though.
Watched a tundra with chains on all four tires slide down a Icy snowy street hill we had bead locks but our tires where at 6psi no chains and had mud tires on, the truck walked right up the hill we even stopped on it to prove a point.
Effin' A', brother!
Learned a LOT from this vid; will most definitely come in handy in my Canadian winters.
Thank you so much and bless!
Glad to help, have fun out there!
I have the same exact car on 205/55/16 and tryin gout the Nokian's this time around. I'll put this knowledge to the test, thx
Thanks! I've always mistrusted the "recommended" tire pressure stickers. I do notice my fronts area always a lot more "squished" more than the rears...and the pressure recommendation is the same for front and rear. I may soften the rear tires a bit to see if I can notice any difference.
They say it's a balance between handling, fuel economy, braking, ect. So you could push it just abit in any direction to get that extra edge.
Please redo this for rwd vehicles
For my light front wheel drive kia, I run around 25 psi in fronts and as low as i can get away with about 20 psi in the rear.
Glad you did this one...
Great info, thanks brother 👍
I've been cruising around in a modified (built a hardtop and added in some extra headlights) 79 Fiat Spider this winter. I added some weight to the back and that helps the grip, I'll try playing around with tire pressure. I've also got a torsen diff on the way which should be a big upgrade over the open diff. Thanks for the tips!
Do you guys have a video for braking down a steep short hill with a stop at the bottom of it
Tyres should be near the recommended numbers as anything off too much will of set the stability of the car once you out of the snow track. When you stuck in deep snow then lower pressure on driving wheels helps as basically increases the contact patch of the tyre with the road surface. And yes narrow tyres in snow are better, however never go smaller size than the size the car came out of factory. That’s for road cars, for rally one Wyatt is the man 👍
I have a long background of off-roading. If you live in a snowy/icy area with hills bead locks are your best friend. I’ve watched a tundra with chains on all four wheels slide down a street hill into a parked car. To prove a point because no one ever please us we went up the same hill with no chains mud tires and at 6psi we walked right up the hill even stopped on it and kept going.
Good stuff to know, I have rwd bmw E46 with snow studded tires I plan on driving in snow and I'm going to try out lowering the tire pressure a bit more from my current 30/30 psi
Hey, Wyatt! I've been wondering if such a great driver like you has ever had a mishap on film? If yes, could we have a little compilation of you mishaps and an explanation of the mistake you did? Because I've been practicing some driving techniques at home and I was wondering what the outcome could be if I mess up.
Thank you and best wishes for 2021!!
Oh this would be good, I don't have too much on film but I'll look and see if there's enough to do a blooper reel
@@Teamoneilrally Thank you! 🙂
Hey I run those same tires on my VW Jetta!
but I was told NEVER TO AIR DOWN IN SNOW and then I see some videos where it works terrific and others where its worse to air down...
On my fozzy I run my 235/75/15s at 20psi for max grip on off road/ dirt road. Rides like a Cadillac driving over a cloud.
Again and again I see the one piece of most important information either gets left out, brushed over or incorrectly presented is: what does the "COLD TIRE PRESSURE" really means. A cold tire can be sitting under the shade of a tree in the Arizona dessert or on top of the snowy Rocky Mountain with huge temperature differences so what is the standard of the "COLD TIRE PRESSURE" on the sticker means? "COLD TIRE PRESSURE" on the sticker means that the recommended pressure listed for the individual tire on the sticker is based on the ambient temperature of 68F/20C (COLD TIRE PRESSURE) to the individual tire size listed; therefore, the pressure would need to be either increased or decreased if the ambient temperature is either over or under the 68F/20C tested temperature when checking for the correct tire pressure. This important information should been stated on the sticker next to the "COLD TIRE PRESSURE" or replace the words with "AT 68F/20C TEMPERATURE". Please use the link provided for more information: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_inflation_pressure
talk about my feelings.... whoa hold on... haha
Awesome info. Yall are awesome
You're awesome Nick, thanks for being here!
Amazing!
Should have tested higher pressures !
We wanted to start 10psi over recommended pressure, but we literally filmed this while the class was on lunch break and wouldn't have had time
@@Teamoneilrally its ok we still love you
@@Teamoneilrally Hahaha fair enough, Ill accept it 😂
I have blizzaks ws90s. Hyundai Ioniq front wheel drive. 15 inch tires. I run them at 38. Will dropping them to 34 do anything for acceleration grip or turning/handling grip?
I want that car.
Thanks, I just got my Ural motorcycle stuck in the snow. Thinking of towing it out with my Nismo frontier. Got about a foot of fresh snow and some steep inclines. Wondering what pressure I should have in my tires. Well here I go at reduced pressure.
Since you're driving a Frontier, your ground clearance is probably greater than the depth of snow you'll be driving through. In that case, run as low a pressure as you're comfortable with. The low pressure spreads out the contact patch over a wider and longer area, meaning that more biting edges of the treadblocks have a chance to grip the snow.
Hello
You said that the normal impreza's that you guys use at your rally school are reliable. Would these cars be reliable for everyday driving on pavement? And what are some common problems with the 2.0l or lower engines and those transmisions?
Thank you!
I’m not them but I have been daily driving a 2007 Impreza 2.5i (143k miles as of now) for the past year and a half ish and it’s been great the 5th gear is a bit shorter than I would like for highway driving (about 3k at 70) I haven’t really had to do anything to it besides oil changes and suspension stuff and this car gets abused at the local scca rallyx events (about 24 events per year) the only bad part is it has had a misfire in cyl 4 since I have bought it but it’s only noticeable at idle and hasn’t gotten worse or better since I’ve bought it
These mid-2000s Imprezas are great, we only got the 2.5L here in the USA but they're pretty solid.
We see the head gaskets usually go around 100k miles and the bottom end will usually go around 200k.
The next weak link in competition is the clutch, but on the street you shouldn't have any problem.
Max Bear What suspension do you use?
Thank you!
Team O'Neil In Europe cars with 2.5l engines are not as common and they are more expensive, because they are expensive to insure.
Thank you for helping me!
@@happyboys2166 I just use stock replacement kyb struts
Dang that looks fun
On my Subaru, running recommended pressure yielded uneven wear (middle section of the tire worn more quickly). I imagine that the recommended pressures must be for the vehicle at gross weight which is 1000# over empty weight. I think there is probably a middle ground to leave it at for winter driving for an unloaded vehicle that is not typically ever loaded up. Service manual says 55% and 45% for weigh distribution for my Outback fwiw.
I was thinking the same thing. The manufacturer is recommending pressures that will still be safe in a worst case scenario. The general public doesn't always understand that vehicle capacity and tow ratings are an either/or scenario, so they will over-load the car and then slap a heavy trailer on the back...and then wonder why the rear suspension is bottomed out. I think this is why a lot of manufacturers don't provide tow ratings for cars sold in the US...
i realy like the tutorial!!! thanks a lot, if a want my Golf to be more tail happy like waht should be my tires pressure ?
Can you do what to do in a burst tyre scenario, that's one subject i'm surprised you have touched on
best thing to do is get your co-driver to change it for you.
Hello wyatt. I would like to know more about rally tyres. 1) do all season n all terrain rally tyres exist?
2) can rally tyres be used on road cars for daily driving functions?
3) can anyone buy rally tyres or they are only sold to certified racers?
4) can gravel rally tyres be used on tarmac?
5) are rally tyres as durable as normal road tyres?
There are gravel rally tires, pavement rally tires, and snow rally tires
Check out www.demon-tweeks.com/us/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-tyres/rally/#/
Anyone can buy them and drive on them
Teeeeeeccccchnically they're not DOT approved and say "For Competition Purposes Only" on the side
But nobody actually cares, we've run them for years on rally cars on the street and street cars
They will wear out faster than normal street tires but are FAR more rugged as far as impacts / punctures
You can get soft, medium, or hard compound
Soft compound usually offers the most grip but wears out the fastest, they're good for short periods, cool temps and smoother roads
Hard compound lasts the longest but isn't as grippy, they're good for hot temps and/or rough rallies
Most drivers just order medium compound most of the time
@@Teamoneilrally thanks fo the infor
@@Teamoneilrally what are the top best rally tyre brands.i want to try them on my road car i commute between a long gravel winding road and a windy tarmarc road .i need a more exhiliratin performance .sometimes wen it rains the gravel bad. And when dry the gravel and tarmac are bumpy .i need a strong tyre and wheel combo fo all year perfomance
Personally my favorite is the Pirelli KM4. It's a medium compound with a slightly more open tread pattern that works well even if the road gets wet, loose, whatever happens it always works really darn well.
@@Teamoneilrally thanks.let me check it out
Can you guys do a video of how to race with an automatic vehicle
roads are so bad here can't use low pressures with 225 45 17s. I wanna keep my wheels safe lol. 2.5bar minimum here.
Yup same reason basically all rally cars have 15" wheels. On 17s you've gotta run stock pressure or potentially higher if the roads are rough
What about a “Will it Rally- Subaru Crosstrek
*Or lift it slightly in winter, and install a little taller, narrower snow tires with more meat on them, and larger gaps between the treads.....With studs if you have ice on the roads all winter.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So lower pressure gives you more suspension play in the snow, which is good as far as I understood, but on the road will it also increase suspension play ?
He is using the body roll to judge the grip level. He says he feels more body roll, which tells him that the tires are gripping better.
Weight transfer on tarmac is much less beneficial, and with a pressure this low your car will become slower to react, and potentially could strangely understeer or oversteer. These pressures are not for longer tarmac use (as the tyres would likely overheat, wear unevenly and fail as well)
Thanks for information!
What about studded tyres? Example: we use Michelin X-ice north 4, but so far it has not been possible to establish an unambiguous dependence on air temperature. -4° F i stay 44psi front and 40 psi back, and grip is perfect, a little changes of air temperature and grip go away...
Tire pressure changes 1-2psi every 10 degrees F
If you set your pressures in the cold morning, the pressures will go up as the day gets warmer and you drive on the tires
If it gets to 36 degrees F for example your tires may be 4-8psi higher (depending on tire size and volume of air)
If the tires actually warm up higher than the air temperature, the pressures may go even higher
Possible you are got me wrong. I have a question about depending between tire pressure and grip on ice... I know, that tire pressure go higher follow the air temperature. we have always assumed that the colder it is, the harder it is for the spike to stick into the ice, and we increased the pressure. and in warm weather, tire sipes work more, and increasing the contact patch increased the grip
@@Teamoneilrally i use 195*65 r15. Car weight is 1450kg, full weight 1600kg, full-time 4wd, 2litre turbo. toyota caldina gt-t
Snowmobile: will it rally?
Would you please do a test with different tire sizes with same psi? Reason? People say when I change my tires from 265/70R17 to 285/70R17 would make it worse in snow as pressure per square inch is spread out vs if 255/80R17 is used it would be much better. Really appreciate if this could be tested.
This would be a great video, OEM vs a narrower tire vs a wider tire. The most noticeable difference will be in warm snow, slush, and water... that's where a narrow tire is great and a wide tire will float and hydroplane more. On packed snow and ice the difference will be much less noticeable, unless you went with a VERY different tire size the performance will be fairly similar.
Hi, I understand that pressure can be decreased with small rims thanks to the important height of the sidewalls. But what do you consider being a heigh enough sidewall (in inches or in mm) to decrease pressure by at most 10 psi ?
I am asking since on my Subaru Forester XT, tires are 215/55 R17, so sidewalls seems quite consequent with 118mm/4.7inches height.
Is here value in adding weight to the rear on a Subaru so you can get that balance at higher pressures?
I can't have my M2 rotate under braking on winter tires on the snow as much as my Golf GTI with snow tires. Even with a few grams of brake pressure sends the M2 in terminal understeer. I remember the E35 at your school was happy to rotate with trail braking. is it all about tire pressure or more due to other dynamics such as weight, suspension geometry of the car?
great video as usual. thanks!
Are you holding the button long enough that DSC is turning off completely?
If the stability control is on, it won't rotate under braking at all...
Just a thought:
f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206958
Yes that is with Esc and TC off, holding ESC button. It may be the car is too heavy or I’m not modulating the brakes.
With the whole narrow tire thing, doesn't that do the opposite of lowering tire pressure where you're trying to increase contact patch? Obviously, in snow pack where you're not going to cut through anything to get to better road a larger contract patch is preferred, but which is better for everyday winter driving? I know hitting slush and hydroplaning is not fun, but I feel like that's not as often or common as hard slick surfaces of ice or compacted snow.
Also, what makes more of a difference, tire width, tire pressure (contact patch), or running a snow tire instead of an all season?
You hit the nail on the head, everything is a compromise
On slush, warm snow, water etc you want a narrow tire to dig through
On packed surfaces you want more tire on the road
The easy solution is to run a narrow tire and then air down like this when you want / need to
As far as the second question, a winter tire will be way better than any size / pressure all season
I think I will take air out of my rear tires because I almost crashed 2 times with the abs fuse pulled in the snow. It seemed like any brake application just locks up the back tires way before the front tires are even biting, and sends me into a slide.
What vehicle? The ABS system handles brake proportioning in a lot of modern cars, so with the fuse pulled you might be getting almost all rear brake.
@@Teamoneilrally It is a '02 VW Jetta. After doing more research apparently there is some electronic brake proportioning with my car. People said that pulling the fuse can cause a rear brake bias, but I didn't think it would be that extreme.
What's you guys opinions on the whole evo vs impreza debate? i.e. which one gets the advantage in which terrain and pros and cons.
In the USA, Impreza wins every time just because so few EVOs were imported which means parts / maintenance is a nightmare in comparison
Outside of that reality, EVO is probably just a little quicker and easier to drive at the limit
But for us here in the States, it's just not worth it. There are probably 10 Imprezas to every 1 EVO rallying here.
I know it's apples and oranges, but I go down to 5 psi for deep snow in my land cruiser.
Is there enough material to make a video on sway bar set up, no sway bars, no front seat bar etc?
And there wasn't enough talking about our feelings.
Sway bars! Yes there's a lot there really, basically the more grip you have, the more swaybar you want.
On snow and ice we disconnect them or run very light ones.
On gravel, stock is usually fine. On pavement you might want more.
It all depends on suspension travel too though
If you only have a few inches of travel you can run stiff swaybars...
But if you bolt in rally suspension with long travel you'll have big problems
The swaybar end links typically bend and break
Lots of feelings at that point, sad feelings
Is the channel done with the Will it Rally series?
They really didn't get as many views as we were hoping, some do better than others but the average is still pretty low TBH
@@Teamoneilrally That's too bad. Thanks for the reply and all the great content over the years. My stage times in Dirt Rally 2.0 have never been better.
@@EdibleOutdoors It's 2021, people go to rally school IRL so they can get better in the sim(s) ;)
Are you guys running lsds on the n/a 2.5s? They seem more on control that they would seem without lsds. Or maybe is perhaps the way you drive?
Not on our Subarus. We have locked center dif.
Im looking into what beginner traction mod would be the best for a stock gf8 for rally driving. I totally forgot bout the center diff, your reply is really well appreciate it! Thanks
I made this comment on a old post. Will put the question here, which is better for rally, automatic or standard?
Standard.
Technically the best would be a sequential racing transmission, like you see in most modern rally and race cars.
But most grassroots "normal" rally cars use standard transmissions.
@@Teamoneilrally But for a beginner on a budget standard would be best. Thank you for your answer!
great stuff!!!
Glare highway ice. What stops quickest? The higher or lower psi? I’m in Northern Alberta and thinking about dropping it 5psi below factory.
Completely depends on the vehicle and tire in question, but usually the lower pressure. At ice rallies where we have to run studless tires, we run so low that most teams put tubes in the tires to keep them seated on the wheel
So what pressures do you run in the Fiestas if they're 38 psi stock all around? The TPMS light comes on below 30
We run around 30 at the rally school but on 15" wheels and no TPMS
Lower would be better grip, but the students bump into snowbanks and stuff too much
Do your cars use stainless brake hoses; opinions? Do not want to sweat you.
We run stainless lines on the actual competition rally cars, but the rally school cars here all have normal factory style brake lines.
Would you recommend 16s or 15s for a 2003 wrx? I'm looking to do some fairly tame rally and offroading on the weekends. Looking at getting 215/65/16 General Grabbers on some stock 16s. I will be lifting the car ~ 1 inch above stock. Thoughts?
15s. more sidewall is ideal for loose and rough surfaces.
Anything that isn't pure tarmac/track racing, go 15's.
15s every time. The extra sidewall will absorb bumps better, be less likely to bend a wheel, you can play with tire pressure more... And rally tires pretty much only come in 15s
Hey guys, I'm planning on taking your winter driving course and I'd like to know whether my Toyo A/T III will be substantial
Yes, absolutely. It won't perform as well as a dedicated winter tire, but as long as they're relatively new you'll have a great time
@@Teamoneilrally thank you so much. I got them in November and I'm planning on joining you for the 20th.
Awesome Bryce, we'll see you then!
What is that tire deflator tool?
It's just a standard pressure gauge / inflator / deflator for an air compressor. You can get them digital or analog. www.astrotools.com/3-5-digital-tire-inflator-with-hose.html
Airing down in winter is pretty much unknown. Airing down at all is unknown to everyone. You can double your traction by airing down. Fully inflated tires will seem like ice skates afterwards. But there is a cost via tire flex and wear. However, unless you get snow tires which means you have a place to store them, money to purchase them - airing down is the best option.
Aired down tires literally bite into slush and snow, and much better on ice. Ice is ice though. In a pinch, air down. Or more frequently, just get a portable air compressor. You should have one atp your way to maintain your vehicle.
Low profile tires are the worst and offer little air down pressure before risking wheel damage. If you really think you’re a racer and need low profiles grow up or get a real race car.
Tire pressure on winter tires should go up. Not down.
When you lower pressure you're increasing the contact patch but you decreasing the PSI or pressure the tire is putting to the ground.
You want a narrower tire causing more force from the weight of the car PSI to transfer to the ground.
The audacity of telling a rally car driver/instructor that he is wrong! 🤣🤣🤣
@@Rydiak Guarantee I've done more winter driving miles considering I Lived in the Arctic for 25 years of my life.
Please wear a helmet.
(Safety first, Last and always!)
Needed to be a blind test where he didn't know the pressure
Ooooooo now that's a good one
@@Teamoneilrally "all tests..... 30psi.... but we tell him it is different" 😂
I trust Wyatt's judgement...but timed laps are always fun.
My 2007 impreza says its 51- 49 percent wieght front and rear. Im not sure if thats the car or maybe fully loaded. Im very curious
I'd guess from driving it that it's more like 60 front / 40 rear, but that's stripped with a rollcage, just me in the car, nothing at all in the trunk, and probably a half tank of gas. We should throw one on the scales and see exactly where it's at
That's loaded weight, no way is the impreza like that empty. It's almost 60/40 for the car itself stock.
you're not cold or something lmao
You get used to it up here, it gets below zero enough that 30 is basically sweatshirt weather
@@Teamoneilrally You should tell people it's zero degrees outside....because it is...in celcius.