This is the video I didn't know I needed! Wow. I'm just thinking of all those climbs I completed with some desperate, unrepeatable moves, and then never went back to because "oh, I've done that one" LOL. Thank you for this. It's great content. Great editing, too!
Dude I love you... I've been climbing for a couple months now and your channel has helped me progress wayyy more then anything I have tried before. I hope you keep up the great work my men.
Hey, I go to the same gym! I KNEW I recognized you. Thanks for making such awesome content. Not much on here is geared towards the people who land in that "Better than beginner yet not quite an intermediate climber", and your content is super accessible for all levels. I appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to the next one!
I'm in a similar spot. I am strong and tall, so I can cheat technique and still climb at a decently high level (5.11 or v5). I've known that my technique has flaws, but it is hard to know exactly how what I'm doing wrong, and how I can improve it. These videos are helpful with that.
Your videos are so thorough, and you explain everything so clearly - they're honestly the best bouldering technique videos on UA-cam. I look forward to learning more from you :)
Dude Movement I just found your channel recently and wanted to say thank you. I know this is a bit of a niche hobby and so making money on UA-cam from it can be difficult. But it's easy to see that you actually care about your content because you're passionate about it. I apply your teachings and techniques where they're relevant and it's definitely helped! Keep up the good work.
Really good video :) I quite often was torn between "Is this still climbing or is this parcour?" because some movements just felt so uncontrolled. Your video explained really good what the difference between "good" climbing and "just" climbing is to me.
Thank you for sharing this video! It feels much more satisfying for me, when I feel I can climb a route fluently. And I can spend much longer in the boulder gym 😀
He is just being humble. I climb at this gym and see this guy all the time (I've asked him for beta help a few times when he wasn't too busy). Nice guy. His muscles look that developed in any lighting.
Great tutorial and tips, I use this process outside all the time, Ill repeat climbs to film them or repeat them to use better technique. Repeating outdoor routes has boosted 4 grades in the last year (probably coupled with a lot of indoor training) but its definitely helped me technique wise :-)
Great video. One thing I was surprised you didn't mention is regripping, since I noticed you regrip a lot. Is that something you're actively working on?
Good eye! I also noticed how much I regripped (big holds and pinches mostly) when I was editing this. I need to study it a bit more to see if it's hampering my climbing, or if it's just something that happens naturally to all climbers. Thanks for the observation.
@@movementforclimbers No criticism intended. :) I think it's a natural thing to regrip, but it does take additional energy and reduce flow. Louis Parkinson has a good game of "one touch" he talks about where any time he regrips he has to jump off the wall. It's definitely helped me out quite a bit.
Hey dude It's Anthony from the gym! we were trying that hard pocket V7 together about a week ago. I didn't know you made videos! I do as well! I'd love to collaborate with you on some projects if that is something you would be into, or helping you with future videos :) let me know! ps I subbed!
Did the intro to this video change? Somehow I remember there being more context to the "once is never" saying the first time I watched this. Either way, fantastic advice.
I'm from Spain and don't really know what "beta" means...i can figure it out but i'll be thanfull if you define it. Great content for sure, thanks for your excercises tutorials
The word beta comes from when climbers would film themselves and play back the footage on betamax tapes to improve their performance on the climb. So the word beta became a word means what moves you do on the route. If a climber climbs a route with a heel hook and a different climber climbs it with a toe hook they have a different beta, because hey do different moves. When he talks about high and low percentage he's talking about what is the chance that you will complete that move. If you fall on the move a lot it's low percentage and if you can complete the move a lot it's high percentage Hope this helps
@@AVPML My understanding is that High vs Low percentage moves are about High vs Low success rate on a move. If you were to try a move over and over again: High percentage moves are moves that you can consistently do which means your technique is good. Low percentage moves are moves that you can sometime do which probably means that you are relying on brute force and luck more that you should.
Some low percentage moves can become high percentage by practice. It may not be necessary for that route, but might be the only move on another climb. And in the same vein, there might not be a better beta sometimes, even if it doesn't feel good.
The distinction here is that sometimes improving the technique alone can often turn a low percentage move into a high percentage move, without improving practice or strength.
I was doing strict Paleo for about 1.5 years when I was living in South Korea. Now I try to do a Paleo meal before climbing/physical activity, and just whatever tastes good after - Thai, Mexican, In-N-Out Burger, etc. Probably not the best example for well-balanced nutrition lol.
@@nikolapappbulatovic I'd say genetics has favored me a bit in this regard and given me mesomorph qualities. I don't manage calories at all, but I do generate a lot of output in the gym. In my experience, the Paleo diet was most effective. It reduced my body fat percentage by 5%. Right now I do intermittent fasting, and that seems to also work quite well.
I do this so much when climbing with lower level friends specifically... When I'm helping a friend with a climb I do it, then drop back down and say "wait. Don't do that." then spend 5 minutes on the wall trying to figure out an easier way for people. (especially if they're shorter)
This is that kind of channel that you just know that is going to explode anytime soon. Great work man.
my thoughts exactly, no doubt
Check out Clmbxr
I have only just realised it’s a low traffic channel, I presumed this one was shit hot
This is the video I didn't know I needed! Wow. I'm just thinking of all those climbs I completed with some desperate, unrepeatable moves, and then never went back to because "oh, I've done that one" LOL. Thank you for this. It's great content. Great editing, too!
Dude I love you... I've been climbing for a couple months now and your channel has helped me progress wayyy more then anything I have tried before. I hope you keep up the great work my men.
Hey, I go to the same gym! I KNEW I recognized you. Thanks for making such awesome content. Not much on here is geared towards the people who land in that "Better than beginner yet not quite an intermediate climber", and your content is super accessible for all levels. I appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to the next one!
I'm in a similar spot. I am strong and tall, so I can cheat technique and still climb at a decently high level (5.11 or v5). I've known that my technique has flaws, but it is hard to know exactly how what I'm doing wrong, and how I can improve it. These videos are helpful with that.
same broooo this channel is a cheatcode @@Peter-hx3im
This channel is a revelation - so much care and attention put into the videos, with clear and helpful tips - keep it up!!
Your videos are so thorough, and you explain everything so clearly - they're honestly the best bouldering technique videos on UA-cam. I look forward to learning more from you :)
"But I am le tired..." omg I forgot about that video!!! Thank you for reminding me. 😄
darkexcalibur87 haha now the 87 makes sense 😂 man that had to be the first viral video
Your channel is making a real difference in people's lives. Keep it up!
Thanks for consistently putting out high quality content!
Dude Movement I just found your channel recently and wanted to say thank you. I know this is a bit of a niche hobby and so making money on UA-cam from it can be difficult. But it's easy to see that you actually care about your content because you're passionate about it. I apply your teachings and techniques where they're relevant and it's definitely helped! Keep up the good work.
Really good video :) I quite often was torn between "Is this still climbing or is this parcour?" because some movements just felt so uncontrolled. Your video explained really good what the difference between "good" climbing and "just" climbing is to me.
Just stumbled over your content and subbed. Good quality, interesting subjects, solid execution. Cool.
Great video. You have a relaxing voice
Yes thank you. You are an amazing person. May the climbing force be with you through your life and bring you closer to the summit.
Thanks for this! I’ve been looking for some more movement based commentary rather than how to get better at mindless pulling
Definitely re-climbing my routes again I've done last week! I reset too much and not enough flow. Keep up the video's!
Your story telling is amazing
Good video. Great question I should be asking myself probably even on failures because there are many boulders I don't even end up sending.
Thank you for sharing this video! It feels much more satisfying for me, when I feel I can climb a route fluently. And I can spend much longer in the boulder gym 😀
So good thanks! I'm loving the content!
Yo what is that lady doing under you at 4:30!? Sheesh
Ikr I'd be so upset if someone came under me like that 😩
good video. Well explained and very helpful. Nice work I look forward to more of your content.👌
Agreed. This is a great channel. A really helpful takebreakdown of technique. Keep them coming!
Keep up the great videos! I love breakdowns like this!
Very enjoyable video, thank you!
Great video 🤜
First vid I’ve seen of yours and absolutely hitting the sub.
same hahah.. subscribed and notified..
just discovered your channel, instantly continued to binge
Jesus your back muscles are ridiculously developed! In a good way of course! haha
It's the lighting ;-)
He is just being humble. I climb at this gym and see this guy all the time (I've asked him for beta help a few times when he wasn't too busy). Nice guy. His muscles look that developed in any lighting.
What a guy, this video opened my eyes!
Great content. Thanks for the insightful commentary.
My favourite channel, hands down
Great stuff as always, thanks man
Great tutorial and tips, I use this process outside all the time, Ill repeat climbs to film them or repeat them to use better technique. Repeating outdoor routes has boosted 4 grades in the last year (probably coupled with a lot of indoor training) but its definitely helped me technique wise :-)
Great video. One thing I was surprised you didn't mention is regripping, since I noticed you regrip a lot. Is that something you're actively working on?
Good eye! I also noticed how much I regripped (big holds and pinches mostly) when I was editing this. I need to study it a bit more to see if it's hampering my climbing, or if it's just something that happens naturally to all climbers. Thanks for the observation.
@@movementforclimbers No criticism intended. :) I think it's a natural thing to regrip, but it does take additional energy and reduce flow. Louis Parkinson has a good game of "one touch" he talks about where any time he regrips he has to jump off the wall. It's definitely helped me out quite a bit.
nicely done thank you. keep them coming
Hey dude It's Anthony from the gym! we were trying that hard pocket V7 together about a week ago. I didn't know you made videos! I do as well! I'd love to collaborate with you on some projects if that is something you would be into, or helping you with future videos :) let me know! ps I subbed!
amazing video, cheers
Just found your channel, love your content and it’s really helpful (:
I enjoyed this video
i'm new to climbing, what exactly is beta? i tried to understand it through the vid but still dont quite get it.
I also dont understand
Did the intro to this video change? Somehow I remember there being more context to the "once is never" saying the first time I watched this. Either way, fantastic advice.
I'm from Spain and don't really know what "beta" means...i can figure it out but i'll be thanfull if you define it.
Great content for sure, thanks for your excercises tutorials
What about "high or low percentage" moves?? What are those??
The word beta comes from when climbers would film themselves and play back the footage on betamax tapes to improve their performance on the climb. So the word beta became a word means what moves you do on the route.
If a climber climbs a route with a heel hook and a different climber climbs it with a toe hook they have a different beta,
because hey do different moves.
When he talks about high and low percentage he's talking about what is the chance that you will complete that move.
If you fall on the move a lot it's low percentage and if you can complete the move a lot it's high percentage
Hope this helps
@@slenderslayer8898 thank you so much. It really helped me to understand the whole video much better
@@AVPML My understanding is that High vs Low percentage moves are about High vs Low success rate on a move.
If you were to try a move over and over again:
High percentage moves are moves that you can consistently do which means your technique is good.
Low percentage moves are moves that you can sometime do which probably means that you are relying on brute force and luck more that you should.
“But I’m Le Tired” hahaha so classic
Some low percentage moves can become high percentage by practice. It may not be necessary for that route, but might be the only move on another climb.
And in the same vein, there might not be a better beta sometimes, even if it doesn't feel good.
The distinction here is that sometimes improving the technique alone can often turn a low percentage move into a high percentage move, without improving practice or strength.
yes it's good
i am inspired to try some of that move :D
Whats ur diet like?
I was doing strict Paleo for about 1.5 years when I was living in South Korea. Now I try to do a Paleo meal before climbing/physical activity, and just whatever tastes good after - Thai, Mexican, In-N-Out Burger, etc. Probably not the best example for well-balanced nutrition lol.
@@movementforclimbers thanks! Are you naturally this shredded or do you manage your calorie intake at all?
@@nikolapappbulatovic I'd say genetics has favored me a bit in this regard and given me mesomorph qualities. I don't manage calories at all, but I do generate a lot of output in the gym. In my experience, the Paleo diet was most effective. It reduced my body fat percentage by 5%. Right now I do intermittent fasting, and that seems to also work quite well.
this was a good video but not going to lie, I had to google what beta means since im so new to climbing aha
Are you on IG!
I always feel better when i climbed good, fluid, nice rather than just "getting to the top"
“But I’m le tired” that phrase separates the UA-cam boys from the men. It’s sad how many people I say that to and don’t get it.
I have a spare top I could send you?
Well have a nap...
ZEN FIRE ZE MISSELS!!!
your voice doesn't match your appearance, but I like both! 😆
END OF ZE WORLD
I do this so much when climbing with lower level friends specifically... When I'm helping a friend with a climb I do it, then drop back down and say "wait. Don't do that." then spend 5 minutes on the wall trying to figure out an easier way for people. (especially if they're shorter)
What is a Beta?
What does beta mean lol yeah, I'm that new lol
no.