Wow good know the preparation for a expedition. I recently went for a 10 days himalayan trek to 5.5k meters with one inner layer and a outer layer. And carried only a tshirt and jeans for return :). Offcourse this much is required for much longer and higher climbs.
I like merino wool very much, especially for daily use or as a baselayer. I don't have any experience with high mountains. But it is still a fact that merino wolol is one of the coldest wools around and it is also colder than most fleece. What I found to be really warm and still quite affordable (the warmest wool is very exotic and extremly expensive and there are no real outdoor specific products) is Alpaca wool. It has all the advantages of merino wool (maybe a little bit more itchy depending on the quality), but is way warmer than that.
I loved the video. Very informative. Climbing to Mountain Everest is my dream. I hope one day l can do it. I need actually more information and l am still searching how to do that. And l would love to chat with you more. Thanks
this is fantastic! if you have ever tried to find a reliable gear check for everest or any other big mountain, you know it isn.t easy. love to have all the detail in how you look through that stuff. always wanted to know what kind of gloves are suitable for the summit.
There is so much gear needed for this big expedition that a large logistical effort is required, including planes, helicopters, yaks, and humans. This is not a mountain that can be climbed safely on the cheap or with shortcuts for gear!
Hi, I've seriously been inspired with your videos. I'm 18 and I have no experience, what can I do, to reach my goal of climbing everest ? What is necessary before climbing such a dangerous mountain ? I'd really appreciate if you could give me some advices..
Thank you Gursel. Everest is just one mountain of millions... start smaller! if you can, make friends with others who share your passion and get out into the mountains--together, safely--as much as you can. Always a great idea to hire a professional mountain guide to teach you safe techniques on tall, steep terrain. If you pay your dues and climb scores of other mountains, and love it, you might be ready to consider 8000 meters in about 10 years (just a prediction). Thanks!
At that elevation you do need a high quality boot... My experience for my wide feet is to try La Sportiva. You should take a look at Spantiks and Baruntses... they do NOT come in a wide cut, I think, but you may be able to get a big enough size to get away with it. That is what I have done. Good luck!
Thanks. Z-Goggles Barkeaters, Mt Everest Edition. You can see them throughout my blog... bottom of this page a good example: pottinger.net/osm/2016/04/lobuche-east-false-summit/
Thanks for the informational video, but I had some questions. 1. What do you normally recommend to wear under a down suit ? 2. Are permits on Everest for one time use only? 3. Do you ever plan to climb k2? Thanks.
Thanks Big Poppa. Most people wear a single layer under the down suit, for instance expedition-weight merino wool. I wore two thinner layers. The Nepalese Government usually issues permits for one season only... I think the Chinese do the same on the North side. No, I will never go above 8,000 meters again, but thank you for asking! I hope you have a safe adventure.
OSM Adventures I appreciate you getting back to me on my questions. Do you feel as if you've done enough death zone climbing and you've had your thrill or you just don't wanna risk it anymore?
What a great comprehensive run through of your kit. Just one question; what are the heated feet pads you use in your altitude boots, and is the battery easy to stow?
Thanks those where HotTronics, standard up on Everest. The batteries are carried in the down suit via extension cables. I think they are helpful in reducing risk of frostbite. B well and have a safe expedition!
No, that was because of the earthquake. Please see pottinger.net/osm/2015/09/the-quake/. and then pottinger.net/osm/2015/12/aftershock/. and finally pottinger.net/osm/2016/04/return-camp-2/
How did the sorel boots hold up????? I seen quite a few sorel boots that crack on the rubber around the toe area. I was also shopping for them on Amazon and people also stated that the boots cracked along the seems and they showed pics. Im concerned because it seems like they are hit or miss regarding quality of the boot.
My boots performed spectacularly on this expedition. They are very warm and very tough... no sign of premature wear whatsoever. Having said so, this trip was 65 days long, and I wore the boots only for some of those days... thus, I cannot comment on their longevity over the years.
Hey thanks. More like LAYING around EBC... never for any kind of climbing, but rather for staying toasty and keeping the feet safe from injury while living at EBC, which we did a lot on both expeditions. Never been in Baffins, but thanks for the tip. Bottom line: You want a pair of very warm, very tough boots with great traction.
Thanks, I cannot recall what brand of spray-on silicone product I used, I think Nikwax but cannot recall for sure. Whatever suede waterproofing product you like should be fine...
Thanks, sorry I missed this message until now. I treated my lightweight approach Asolo hiking boots and softshell with a silicone-based spray on product by Nikwax, I think. Keeping the softshell CLEAN is a great start to maintain water resistance, but that is tough in the Khumbu. No other special treatment of my gear... bottom line: just treat the gear per manufacturer's specs, no special trick that I have come across.
G.M. In 2015 there was a bad earthquake during our expedition. We had to abandon most of our gear for safety reasons. See pottinger.net/osm/2015/12/aftershock/ and m.ua-cam.com/video/xbxb5wiLC70/v-deo.html
Do you mind if I ask what you do for work? I'm an accountant and I can't afford Everest, it's depressing to know I'll die before I can afford an attempt
Thank you Scott. I am a doctor. This trip cost about half my annual income. For others on the trip, the expedition cost was more than double their annual income. The financial sacrifice is very real. So is the loss of time with family and at work. it is a big commitment for sure.
OSM Adventures I was hoping to do lohtse also which comes in around 120k AUD which is about double my current income but should be closer to my annual income when I'm ready to go. Guess I just need to start budgeting
Good point Scott. Lhotse after Everest is a truly tall order.... as we found last season, to tragic effect, fixing Lhotse is no trivial deal, and on some years there are no summits at all. I think this is a great goal; it is a tall order for sure. Best of luck, and stay safe!
Good question... I built this kit over years, so have not kept a tally. The "high ticket" items from this list: Down suit (about $1200), Olympus Mons boots (about $700), sleeping bags (each hundreds of $). But, all of this stuff definitely adds up.
This trip cost about $65K, so not money lying around. Lots of saving and preparation and planning. And, I could afford to return because the first expedition was insured by Travelex. Thanks for your interest.
Oh yes. Every climber should have trip insurance for this reason, and also evacuation insurance. This helivac took 2 minutes, but cost $2500... covered by insurance. ua-cam.com/video/COG9aurKj3w/v-deo.html
Thanks Rahul. In the USA where I live, this can be purchased online from vendors such as rei.com, mountaingear.com, backcountry.com, amazon.com, and featheredfriends.com.
Dude... wtf are you talking about? www.nytimes.com/2017/12/29/sports/mount-everest-letters.html . Think. Listen. Respect. And then share with us your gear list for the summit.
@@OSMAdventures It is evident that you only have the money (60,000) to get up with all the comfort, and that is not the way to climb the mountains and less an eight-thousander, why the mountain is respect not business. Read and watch as people like Kukuczka, Messner, Iñurrategui ... It's my opinion, dude.
@@unaiimr3240 Well, please ask your other friends who have summited what gear they took to the top. This is what worked for me, and it is extremely similar to the gear brought up by everyone else, including our guides. We want to protect our bodies and our minds. I admire those climbers you mention, but Everest can be climbed different ways. Respect means honoring the people who live there, their culture and heritage, and being WELL PREPARED so that you do not get into trouble and need a rescue. That is why I take gear to keep myself safe.
@@OSMAdventures I appreciate your answer dude, and I agree that in this way you help the people and the economy of the place, what I don't like is the fact of doing business with the mountain ... the most important thing is to acquire experience in the mountains: self rescue, progression and technique in ice and rock climbing, handling of the material ... it is the most important thing to be secure. I appreciate your response and I think that I express badly at the beginning, I'm sorry.
@@unaiimr3240 Thanks so much. Agree: this is NOT a mountain to attempt unless you are very experienced and prepared. And, when you do, make sure that your coin helps the people who live there.
Wow good know the preparation for a expedition. I recently went for a 10 days himalayan trek to 5.5k meters with one inner layer and a outer layer. And carried only a tshirt and jeans for return :). Offcourse this much is required for much longer and higher climbs.
This is incredibly technical, but SO HELPFUL and very INSIGHTFUL for people wanting to learn about how to prepare and pack.
I like merino wool very much, especially for daily use or as a baselayer. I don't have any experience with high mountains.
But it is still a fact that merino wolol is one of the coldest wools around and it is also colder than most fleece. What I found to be really warm and still quite affordable (the warmest wool is very exotic and extremly expensive and there are no real outdoor specific products) is Alpaca wool. It has all the advantages of merino wool (maybe a little bit more itchy depending on the quality), but is way warmer than that.
Thanks for sharing Lucius!
I just love the hat your mother in law knit you. So sweet and wonderful with your initials on it and everything.
I loved the video. Very informative. Climbing to Mountain Everest is my dream. I hope one day l can do it. I need actually more information and l am still searching how to do that. And l would love to chat with you more. Thanks
What is the model of the Patagonia pants you mentioned? There are several model and I’m curious which ones you like so much. Thanks, great videos!
Thanks Andrew. I purchased those pants circa 2008... they no longer make them. But, their Point Peak and Altiva pants are close.
this is fantastic! if you have ever tried to find a reliable gear check for everest or any other big mountain, you know it isn.t easy. love to have all the detail in how you look through that stuff. always wanted to know what kind of gloves are suitable for the summit.
Do you leave the lighter/warm weather stuff at the camps as you go, and get them on the way down? Like the sandals for example?
Thanks. Yes, we carry only what we need up the mountain from camp to camp. This is a key feature of large, long expeditions such as this one.
How on earth do you bring all this with you. I have a hard time bringing everything for a few day kayaking hammock trip
There is so much gear needed for this big expedition that a large logistical effort is required, including planes, helicopters, yaks, and humans. This is not a mountain that can be climbed safely on the cheap or with shortcuts for gear!
Excellent gear, now for the good part. How did you get $45,000 for the trip?
Thanks. Actually the total cost was higher than that.... takes years of saving and preparation, for the whole family, I assure you.
@@OSMAdventures it really costs that much??
Hi, I've seriously been inspired with your videos. I'm 18 and I have no experience, what can I do, to reach my goal of climbing everest ? What is necessary before climbing such a dangerous mountain ? I'd really appreciate if you could give me some advices..
Thank you Gursel. Everest is just one mountain of millions... start smaller! if you can, make friends with others who share your passion and get out into the mountains--together, safely--as much as you can. Always a great idea to hire a professional mountain guide to teach you safe techniques on tall, steep terrain. If you pay your dues and climb scores of other mountains, and love it, you might be ready to consider 8000 meters in about 10 years (just a prediction). Thanks!
Cardio
Do you know any good mountaineering boots for wide feet usually for 6000 meter peaks?
At that elevation you do need a high quality boot... My experience for my wide feet is to try La Sportiva. You should take a look at Spantiks and Baruntses... they do NOT come in a wide cut, I think, but you may be able to get a big enough size to get away with it. That is what I have done. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. What goggles did you wear if any?
Thanks. Z-Goggles Barkeaters, Mt Everest Edition. You can see them throughout my blog... bottom of this page a good example: pottinger.net/osm/2016/04/lobuche-east-false-summit/
@@OSMAdventures now I just need to know where to get those . Thanks for getting back to me 👍👍
@@happytrails8595 facebook.com/GoggleOutlet
Thanks for the informational video, but I had some questions.
1. What do you normally recommend to wear under a down suit ?
2. Are permits on Everest for one time use only?
3. Do you ever plan to climb k2?
Thanks.
Thanks Big Poppa. Most people wear a single layer under the down suit, for instance expedition-weight merino wool. I wore two thinner layers. The Nepalese Government usually issues permits for one season only... I think the Chinese do the same on the North side. No, I will never go above 8,000 meters again, but thank you for asking! I hope you have a safe adventure.
OSM Adventures I appreciate you getting back to me on my questions. Do you feel as if you've done enough death zone climbing and you've had your thrill or you just don't wanna risk it anymore?
Thanks. Yes.... and yes... and yes. All of those things are related, for sure.
What a great comprehensive run through of your kit. Just one question; what are the heated feet pads you use in your altitude boots, and is the battery easy to stow?
Thanks those where HotTronics, standard up on Everest. The batteries are carried in the down suit via extension cables. I think they are helpful in reducing risk of frostbite. B well and have a safe expedition!
How do you go to the toilet near the summit? Without freezing?
Thanks. Very carefully...... please see my blog for more info: pottinger.net/osm/2016/10/to-the-south-col/
Great question, always wondering about it :)...thank for answer
What do you mean that you have gear still up at camp 2. Can you explain that to a complete novice? How do you keep gear there long term?
No, that was because of the earthquake. Please see pottinger.net/osm/2015/09/the-quake/. and then pottinger.net/osm/2015/12/aftershock/. and finally pottinger.net/osm/2016/04/return-camp-2/
How did the sorel boots hold up????? I seen quite a few sorel boots that crack on the rubber around the toe area. I was also shopping for them on Amazon and people also stated that the boots cracked along the seems and they showed pics. Im concerned because it seems like they are hit or miss regarding quality of the boot.
My boots performed spectacularly on this expedition. They are very warm and very tough... no sign of premature wear whatsoever. Having said so, this trip was 65 days long, and I wore the boots only for some of those days... thus, I cannot comment on their longevity over the years.
OSM Adventures
Oh ok. Thanks for the reply.
Am I correct in assuming the Sorels are for belaying around EBC? Have you considered Baffin?
Hey thanks. More like LAYING around EBC... never for any kind of climbing, but rather for staying toasty and keeping the feet safe from injury while living at EBC, which we did a lot on both expeditions. Never been in Baffins, but thanks for the tip. Bottom line: You want a pair of very warm, very tough boots with great traction.
When you were going over the first boots, the Asolo extra wide boots, what did you use for the "extra waterproofing"?
Thanks, I cannot recall what brand of spray-on silicone product I used, I think Nikwax but cannot recall for sure. Whatever suede waterproofing product you like should be fine...
Great thanks! Love the videos as well!!
Very informative and useful! What water repellent are you hitting your gear with?
Thanks, sorry I missed this message until now. I treated my lightweight approach Asolo hiking boots and softshell with a silicone-based spray on product by Nikwax, I think. Keeping the softshell CLEAN is a great start to maintain water resistance, but that is tough in the Khumbu. No other special treatment of my gear... bottom line: just treat the gear per manufacturer's specs, no special trick that I have come across.
When you say that an item will stay in Kathmandu, where do you leave it?
ChessNoobs We left some fresh clothes in locked storage with our outfitter, Beyul Expeditions.
I'm confused. How can you leave stuff on Camp II for a long period of time?
G.M. In 2015 there was a bad earthquake during our expedition. We had to abandon most of our gear for safety reasons. See pottinger.net/osm/2015/12/aftershock/ and m.ua-cam.com/video/xbxb5wiLC70/v-deo.html
How did you get the narrow La Sportiva boot to fit your wide feet?
Thanks
I bought several sizes bigger than I would for ice climbing, etc. Feet swell enough up there that the extra room was welcome.
Is there any chance to get extra weight for language if you pay more?
Yes. Definitely.
OSM Adventures thank you for quick answer
luggage*
Do you mind if I ask what you do for work? I'm an accountant and I can't afford Everest, it's depressing to know I'll die before I can afford an attempt
Thank you Scott. I am a doctor. This trip cost about half my annual income. For others on the trip, the expedition cost was more than double their annual income. The financial sacrifice is very real. So is the loss of time with family and at work. it is a big commitment for sure.
OSM Adventures I was hoping to do lohtse also which comes in around 120k AUD which is about double my current income but should be closer to my annual income when I'm ready to go. Guess I just need to start budgeting
Good point Scott. Lhotse after Everest is a truly tall order.... as we found last season, to tragic effect, fixing Lhotse is no trivial deal, and on some years there are no summits at all. I think this is a great goal; it is a tall order for sure. Best of luck, and stay safe!
OSM Adventures thanks mate, congrats with your summit and I wish you all the best with your future endeavours
2 down parkas? Was it really neccessary or could you've done without one of them?
Only one was necessary in the end. The 8000m parka turned out not to be necessary.
Videos like this have got me to make a list. I have about 40 things over $2,000. What does all this cost?
Good question... I built this kit over years, so have not kept a tally. The "high ticket" items from this list: Down suit (about $1200), Olympus Mons boots (about $700), sleeping bags (each hundreds of $). But, all of this stuff definitely adds up.
50 + items $3,700 +
You made it to the top of Everest with this gear? Impressive!
Thanks. A team effort for sure. And... only the essentials went to the top, I assure you!
How are you able to climb or attempt to climb everest back to back? You have that kinda money laying around? Good for you! Cha ching!
This trip cost about $65K, so not money lying around. Lots of saving and preparation and planning. And, I could afford to return because the first expedition was insured by Travelex. Thanks for your interest.
OSM Adventures oh wow. Didn't know there was that type of insurance. Good to know!
Oh yes. Every climber should have trip insurance for this reason, and also evacuation insurance. This helivac took 2 minutes, but cost $2500... covered by insurance. ua-cam.com/video/COG9aurKj3w/v-deo.html
Excellent Video... Can you tell me where I can find these gears.
Thanks Rahul. In the USA where I live, this can be purchased online from vendors such as rei.com, mountaingear.com, backcountry.com, amazon.com, and featheredfriends.com.
did u get your stuff back?
Yep... ua-cam.com/video/xbxb5wiLC70/v-deo.html
What is your daily job? thx
laserjavier laserjavier thanks. I’m a doctor.
at EBC?
No, at the University of Washington in Seattle.
wow
What enc and karmadue
?
Is there a list of gear?
No, just this. Hope you find it helpful.
Ok Thank you I have found a list of reliable gear and did my own research
Use FITS Socks.
IF I EVER GOT TO THE PEAK OF EVEREST, ID STAND THERE FOR A MINUTE OR TWO AND THEN ID BE LIKE.....OK DUDES, I GOTTA GO BACK DOWN, I GOTTA WHACK OFF
do it up there
You have all the material new dude, you only have the money to get you up, that is not the mountaineer spirit and definitely not respect ...
Dude... wtf are you talking about? www.nytimes.com/2017/12/29/sports/mount-everest-letters.html . Think. Listen. Respect. And then share with us your gear list for the summit.
@@OSMAdventures It is evident that you only have the money (60,000) to get up with all the comfort, and that is not the way to climb the mountains and less an eight-thousander, why the mountain is respect not business. Read and watch as people like Kukuczka, Messner, Iñurrategui ... It's my opinion, dude.
@@unaiimr3240 Well, please ask your other friends who have summited what gear they took to the top. This is what worked for me, and it is extremely similar to the gear brought up by everyone else, including our guides. We want to protect our bodies and our minds. I admire those climbers you mention, but Everest can be climbed different ways. Respect means honoring the people who live there, their culture and heritage, and being WELL PREPARED so that you do not get into trouble and need a rescue. That is why I take gear to keep myself safe.
@@OSMAdventures I appreciate your answer dude, and I agree that in this way you help the people and the economy of the place, what I don't like is the fact of doing business with the mountain ...
the most important thing is to acquire experience in the mountains: self rescue, progression and technique in ice and rock climbing, handling of the material ... it is the most important thing to be secure.
I appreciate your response and I think that I express badly at the beginning, I'm sorry.
@@unaiimr3240 Thanks so much. Agree: this is NOT a mountain to attempt unless you are very experienced and prepared. And, when you do, make sure that your coin helps the people who live there.
Which model is that of the OR gtx-gloves? Is it the Alti gloves?
Thanks. I took the AltiGloves for summit day, you got it.