This was a very useful series. I haven't decided to get into archery yet, but this gave me a feel for what I would be in for. I wish there was an explanation for why you have to un-string the bow after you use it and how to do that.
Why you need to unstring the bow: energy is generated from the tension on the limbs from the string (the string forces the limbs in that position). The limbs themselves generate the tension as they are being pulled by the string, they resist the change to their original shape. If you leave the string in for too long, it will change the shape of the limbs and decrease the energy output when you shoot. He made a video called "The physics of archery" (something along those lines) that explains this better and in more detail
@@magentafox1657: Any idea how long that takes on a modern bow? Serious question. I hang my bow by the string because it's easy, but I use cheap limbs and I don't really mind changing them if it takes a few months.
@@jeschinstad it depends on the materials of the limbs, if they’re made of modern materials (think carbon, aluminum or something along those lines) then it doesn’t really matter as those materials don’t really “set” but it is actually very necessary if you have an all wood bow or simply wood limbs as wood does set if you leave it strung. I personally haven’t had any issues leaving my longbow strung overnight or over a weekend but I did “set” the first bow I got when I was a teen and left it strung over a college semester. It still looks like a regular bow but you can unstring it one handed.
@@jeschinstad ua-cam.com/video/rTH7Hccd3P8/v-deo.html NuSensei does a better job explaining the specifics on this video but the TLDR is wood:unstring after every use Composite materials: can be left strung but you shouldn’t forget about it for a year or 2 as the material might still deform I think of it this way; I have a modern recurve I use for hunting, I don’t mind leaving that one strung from season to season (roughly 3 months) but I will sprint to my shed in the middle of the night if I forget to unstring my yumi all wood bow.
Very simply and nicely put. I am planning to shift from traditional wooden bow to a basic/intermediate recurve bow and through this series I found answers of many questions that popped in my mind. Thank you so much!
I just joined my local archery club and bought a new recurve bow from a local store. Last time I was into archery was over 15 years ago. I knew what I wanted, but building the bow was beyond me. I ended up with a Cartel Max riser, 30 pound Fantom limbs, 12 carbon arrows and all the rest. It was the kind of gear I wanted 15 years ago when I was using a second hand bow as a junior. Now I have the gear I always wanted. Shoots like a dream, but I can already tell I'm going to need stabilisers for long range accuracy. PS depending on the material the string is made from you may not need wax. My bowler told me it wasn't necessary for my bow.
your "wheelie bins" play a prominent supporting role in your videos. as a + for trivia, I now know that Brimbank is with the Melbourne ("Melbin") metro area.
These bows need a brace height check before shooting, the dacron string is always long and needs twist. Otherwise with such a small arm guard and long brace height, the string will probably slap the wrist
Never bought a bow, but I've bought lots of bikes, and only once have they set it up 100% (small shop, owner did the set up). I'd imagine it's the same with a bow. Teach me to set it up and I'll take my time and do it right.
As nocking points go, a fine tutorial for recurve bows. But maybe you can do one for "horsebows" as well. It would be easy to recommend Armin for this, but I think you have the expertise to make a tutorial for it as well, at this point. Maybe a nocking point is not necessary to some people, but for beginners, I would highly suggest it. Only then can you get the feel for it.
if you are a beginner and you can join a local club, I would not suggest buying a bow like this. Save your money for now. Most of the archery clubs offer these bows to their novice members anyway. Use different bows from your club for 2-4 months and increase the poundage to built up some muscle. After you can spend your money on a decent bow. Normally, new club members need a decent finger tab, a basic arrow puller and quiver.
Australia is very sparse. Many people, such as myself, don't live anywhere near an archery club. He also said "if you can't get near a store, or archery club"......
Good information and well presented, used to make my own bows and arrows in uk many years ago but still has me wanting to try a shop bought combination??
That was an informational video and the information should help me in assembling my bow and getting it ready to be used. I have a 50# lb bow and right now I have been having problems getting the string on it. The holes on both ends seem to be the same size on the string and I can't get the string down enough to put it on either end of the limbs.
Just to confirm, it's okay to buy a beginner bow at, say, 25#s then later buy limbs rated for, say, 40#s without replacing the riser? The reason I ask is because I plan to shoot as a hobby (no competition hunting) but also to hunt. I'll eventually hunt big game, but I'm likely i start hunting Jackrabbit I think. thanks, and I'm loving your channel!
Yes, you can keep the riser and swap out the limbs. Note that you should make sure future limbs are compatible with your riser. If you're buying the same model, that's a given, but if you're mixing and matching, check that they can be used. ILF risers/limbs offer the biggest range of options as a "standard".
I notice you were combining the "plastic" OMP arrow rest with the Gold Tip Traditionals. At some point I heard feathers will get destroyed if not shooting "off the shelf". After seeing you set the bow up and shooting feather fletched arrows with a rest, I am very interested in hearing your input/opinion on that topic. I am trying to decide... arrrow rest or rug rest feather fletched or vanes. I want to hunt after I have the accuracy, consistency and propper form established. Vanes seem to be widely available and in some instances less expensive. I want to do what would be best in terms of accuracy and repeatability. I'd love some input, NUSensei or anyone with experience on this topic. Doing the Samick Sage trend with 35# initially to develop propper form if that matters at all on the topic.
I'm thinking of upgrading to targert recurve arrows. Do you think Easton Carbon ones with spin wings would be a good choice. Thanks and keep making awesome archery videos!
Based off this recommendation I purchased this Kit. With exception of the Bow, everything else is complete garbage. The Arrows are not carbon and do not had removable heads. The sent such cheap arrows that one exploded when i used it. Also the arrow tips were hollow and sink in after a few impacts. Forearm guard is so cheap and small that I still hit my arm every time. Customer service "Elaine" is ignoring my email
i have subscribed to your channel and i have seen 20 probably of your videos and i was motivated to buy and i have already ordered a mandarin duck black hunter!!! i would like to ask you the knocking point should be placed with the bottom of the arrow seating a few mm higher than 90degr. so that the point of the arrow points a bit lower? thanks for your help and for inspiring me to join this hobby of archery!!!
Some n00b questions I have seen, the string seems flossy and not twisted.. Do you need to twist it or just string the bow and then twist in case of brace height measurements?
Could you please advise which one is good to choose between phantom 56" and. Black hunter 60" both are Mandrian duck made ... Can you make video please for better understanding...
Do I need to take out the string to remove tension from the limbs once I am done shooting for the day? Or I can just leave the bow assembled? My biggest fear is that the limbs break suddenly because of the tension but maybe it's just my impression being a complete novice
Conventional wisdom is always un string your bow or the Limbs will lose there flex over time. But I believe that with higher end materials (aka not wood) this is far less of a problem
I will be getting myself the mandarin duck black hunter 40# or 45# (not sure yet) I have practiced with both at my old range but I don’t live in that area anymore and will shoot on some private Landu am thinking of getting a good hunting bow later on any ideas?
Just got my "black Hunter" # 55 with all the silencers . Today got my first target session and fired about 75 shots. What a bow !!! Can highly recommend .... For target shooting or hunting. If you are over 6 ft height - may be should go for stronger bow. My draw length is about 29 " - 30 " and no problem.... 32" arrows 400 spine with feathers .....
so i bought a triangle compound bow with 24 arrows and im a beginer and was previously using a recurve and now i have a compound did i make the right deicision??
This is off topic. What arrow weight or grains per pound do Olympic Recurve Archers shoot at? What arrow weight do you shoot at and what should beginners use to start with?
Whatever gets the right tune. Start with the shaft's recommended weight, then use judgement to see whether the dynamic spine needs to be stiffer or softer. Heavier points are often desirable for a target shooter, but tune takes priority.
by the way, expensive arrows and cheap arrows really that different? I mean Easton X10 and Easton inspire has huge price gap. Are they really make huge different in terms of stability or overall marks?
Hi NUSensei, I am a recurve archer from the Philippines and I have a question in mind regarding the bow tuning from the moment of purchase to shooting on the field. What step by step procedure should I do to ensure that my bow will be shooting true arrows especially when I am to practice on a 30-70meter target range. Anyway Thank you very very much and More Power to your channel!
A wood 54" bow with around 10-15# limbs should work. My 7 year old draws 20# but she has been doing it for a while and is not a small girl. Try seeing how hard she can pull back on say a rope from a fish scale and that will help at least. The more the better as she will have better range and it will stick in the target better. Then she will need 1000-1400 spine arrows to match the poundage. You should spend around $150 or so for all of this plus a finger tab and arm guard. That will get her started. There are many bows it there but avoid the cheap Chinese ones, order from a reliable archery supply like Lancaster or alternativess.com. Hope that helps
Recently I got a Samick Polaris 66" to shoot in the backyard. It looks identical to the Adventure. Is there just one shop making all these bows? :-) Anyway, I got my package from Lancaster and it came with rest and nock attached so that was nice. The arrows and quiver were nowhere near as good, but it shoots great for casual arching. www.lancasterarchery.com/samick-polaris-66-takedown-recurve-bow.html
From this point on, don't you dare shoot this bow on video without telling us it's sponsored content :p (kidding, obviously, but sarcasm goes missing on the internet...)
I like how the backstop to the target is a house and a window...hope you don’t miss too often!
This was a very useful series. I haven't decided to get into archery yet, but this gave me a feel for what I would be in for. I wish there was an explanation for why you have to un-string the bow after you use it and how to do that.
Why you need to unstring the bow: energy is generated from the tension on the limbs from the string (the string forces the limbs in that position). The limbs themselves generate the tension as they are being pulled by the string, they resist the change to their original shape.
If you leave the string in for too long, it will change the shape of the limbs and decrease the energy output when you shoot. He made a video called "The physics of archery" (something along those lines) that explains this better and in more detail
@@magentafox1657: Any idea how long that takes on a modern bow? Serious question. I hang my bow by the string because it's easy, but I use cheap limbs and I don't really mind changing them if it takes a few months.
@@jeschinstad it depends on the materials of the limbs, if they’re made of modern materials (think carbon, aluminum or something along those lines) then it doesn’t really matter as those materials don’t really “set” but it is actually very necessary if you have an all wood bow or simply wood limbs as wood does set if you leave it strung.
I personally haven’t had any issues leaving my longbow strung overnight or over a weekend but I did “set” the first bow I got when I was a teen and left it strung over a college semester. It still looks like a regular bow but you can unstring it one handed.
@@jeschinstad ua-cam.com/video/rTH7Hccd3P8/v-deo.html NuSensei does a better job explaining the specifics on this video but the TLDR is
wood:unstring after every use
Composite materials: can be left strung but you shouldn’t forget about it for a year or 2 as the material might still deform
I think of it this way; I have a modern recurve I use for hunting, I don’t mind leaving that one strung from season to season (roughly 3 months) but I will sprint to my shed in the middle of the night if I forget to unstring my yumi all wood bow.
I really appreciate the step by step process and attention to detail.
Very simply and nicely put. I am planning to shift from traditional wooden bow to a basic/intermediate recurve bow and through this series I found answers of many questions that popped in my mind. Thank you so much!
This is great information. I have been shooting bows since 1976. But there is much to learn in your videos. Thanks.
Just got the new bow online and the code he offers is still working!!!!! best sensei ever
you really know a lot. It has helped many people Thank you
Thanks for your videos Nu. I'm 3 months into Archery and I'm loving it, learn a lot from your channel.
Keep them coming!
Great video series Nusensei. Thanks for posting.
I just joined my local archery club and bought a new recurve bow from a local store. Last time I was into archery was over 15 years ago. I knew what I wanted, but building the bow was beyond me. I ended up with a Cartel Max riser, 30 pound Fantom limbs, 12 carbon arrows and all the rest. It was the kind of gear I wanted 15 years ago when I was using a second hand bow as a junior. Now I have the gear I always wanted. Shoots like a dream, but I can already tell I'm going to need stabilisers for long range accuracy. PS depending on the material the string is made from you may not need wax. My bowler told me it wasn't necessary for my bow.
Wish this tutorial series was around years ago would have saved me a lot of headaches
your "wheelie bins" play a prominent supporting role in your videos.
as a + for trivia, I now know that Brimbank is with the Melbourne ("Melbin") metro area.
just purchased my first bow last night and your videos has been very helpful. thank you! ❤️
Thanks for the tips. It is very helpful when I received my first bow set.
These bows need a brace height check before shooting, the dacron string is always long and needs twist. Otherwise with such a small arm guard and long brace height, the string will probably slap the wrist
"low brace height"
Never bought a bow, but I've bought lots of bikes, and only once have they set it up 100% (small shop, owner did the set up). I'd imagine it's the same with a bow. Teach me to set it up and I'll take my time and do it right.
very helpful videos, nicely done, thanks
Dude, you are the man!!!
I love these videos on archery and one day i would like to learn it as well😊😊😊😊💗💗💗
As nocking points go, a fine tutorial for recurve bows. But maybe you can do one for "horsebows" as well. It would be easy to recommend Armin for this, but I think you have the expertise to make a tutorial for it as well, at this point.
Maybe a nocking point is not necessary to some people, but for beginners, I would highly suggest it. Only then can you get the feel for it.
if you are a beginner and you can join a local club, I would not suggest buying a bow like this. Save your money for now. Most of the archery clubs offer these bows to their novice members anyway. Use different bows from your club for 2-4 months and increase the poundage to built up some muscle. After you can spend your money on a decent bow. Normally, new club members need a decent finger tab, a basic arrow puller and quiver.
archerman I tried archery today and I know if I can get a bullseye first attempt I don't need no club
lol
RedTubers1 but you might need a lawyer if you shoot over the fence
Australia is very sparse. Many people, such as myself, don't live anywhere near an archery club. He also said "if you can't get near a store, or archery club"......
I'm pretty sure those wooden starter bow have interchangeable limbs between each brands. I've done Cartel Sirius/SF Optimo combo without problem.
Awesome! Thank You, Sensai!
You are missing a critical part ... a target :-) If not done already, maybe you could do an overview of different target types ?
You don't need to buy a target.
I simply used the driver's door on my ex-wife's Lexus.
Not every shot was a 10, but they were just as satisfying...
its pretty easy to make your own target using old carpet and stuff
go stumping in the woods, it's loads of fun!
Thanks man that was very helpful !
i feel i need to go and play kerbal space program after this
Love your videos .. no mention of upper and lower limb or brace height .. might be useful to add this information.
Good information and well presented, used to make my own bows and arrows in uk many years ago but still has me wanting to try a shop bought combination??
That was an informational video and the information should help me in assembling my bow and getting it ready to be used. I have a 50# lb bow and right now I have been having problems getting the string on it. The holes on both ends seem to be the same size on the string and I can't get the string down enough to put it on either end of the limbs.
Thank you very much! This was very useful, Gracias!
You’re my boy NU!!!
Great info but...the directions for these arrows say do not use hot melt glue but Tip Grip for these carbon arrows.
Things seemed rather daunting until this video. Thanks :)
great great great thank you
Thank you!
Just to confirm, it's okay to buy a beginner bow at, say, 25#s then later buy limbs rated for, say, 40#s without replacing the riser?
The reason I ask is because I plan to shoot as a hobby (no competition hunting) but also to hunt. I'll eventually hunt big game, but I'm likely i start hunting Jackrabbit I think.
thanks, and I'm loving your channel!
Yes, you can keep the riser and swap out the limbs. Note that you should make sure future limbs are compatible with your riser. If you're buying the same model, that's a given, but if you're mixing and matching, check that they can be used. ILF risers/limbs offer the biggest range of options as a "standard".
Yay! More core content to watch :D
Looks very similar in cut and shaping to the Sage. i see you have both, are they identical? And could you swap limbs?
I haven't tried it myself. The Samick Polaris and Samick Sage limbs are interchangeable though, and I believe the OMP is a rebranded Polaris.
What is your height?
I notice you were combining the "plastic" OMP arrow rest with the Gold Tip Traditionals. At some point I heard feathers will get destroyed if not shooting "off the shelf". After seeing you set the bow up and shooting feather fletched arrows with a rest, I am very interested in hearing your input/opinion on that topic. I am trying to decide... arrrow rest or rug rest feather fletched or vanes. I want to hunt after I have the accuracy, consistency and propper form established. Vanes seem to be widely available and in some instances less expensive. I want to do what would be best in terms of accuracy and repeatability. I'd love some input, NUSensei or anyone with experience on this topic. Doing the Samick Sage trend with 35# initially to develop propper form if that matters at all on the topic.
I'm thinking of upgrading to targert recurve arrows. Do you think Easton Carbon ones with spin wings would be a good choice. Thanks and keep making awesome archery videos!
they are good arrows but personally i prefer cartel triples
You mention to unstring the bow afterward. Does that mean to unstring it after everytime you return from shooting?
Yes.
What Arrows do you recommend for thé omp adventure
Based off this recommendation I purchased this Kit. With exception of the Bow, everything else is complete garbage. The Arrows are not carbon and do not had removable heads. The sent such cheap arrows that one exploded when i used it. Also the arrow tips were hollow and sink in after a few impacts. Forearm guard is so cheap and small that I still hit my arm every time. Customer service "Elaine" is ignoring my email
see that’s the problem i have with those types of kits,i prefer to just buy everything all separately and spend a little bit more money
I really want the same set up and very applicable to me. How much this cost?
i have subscribed to your channel and i have seen 20 probably of your videos and i was motivated to buy and i have already ordered a mandarin duck black hunter!!! i would like to ask you the knocking point should be placed with the bottom of the arrow seating a few mm higher than 90degr. so that the point of the arrow points a bit lower? thanks for your help and for inspiring me to join this hobby of archery!!!
Yes, that's normally the case.
The limbs are not interchangeable! There is a top limb and a bottom. Don't mix them up!
That does not mean changing the top and bottom limbs. You can actually buy whole new limbs for your bow.
Can you talk about hunting with a longbow
Some n00b questions I have seen, the string seems flossy and not twisted.. Do you need to twist it or just string the bow and then twist in case of brace height measurements?
i like your video
nice.
Could you please advise which one is good to choose between phantom 56" and. Black hunter 60" both are Mandrian duck made ...
Can you make video please for better understanding...
Do I need to take out the string to remove tension from the limbs once I am done shooting for the day? Or I can just leave the bow assembled? My biggest fear is that the limbs break suddenly because of the tension but maybe it's just my impression being a complete novice
Conventional wisdom is always un string your bow or the Limbs will lose there flex over time. But I believe that with higher end materials (aka not wood) this is far less of a problem
I will be getting myself the mandarin duck black hunter 40# or 45# (not sure yet) I have practiced with both at my old range but I don’t live in that area anymore and will shoot on some private Landu am thinking of getting a good hunting bow later on any ideas?
Just got my "black Hunter" # 55 with all the silencers . Today got my first target session and fired about 75 shots. What a bow !!! Can highly recommend .... For target shooting or hunting. If you are over 6 ft height - may be should go for stronger bow. My draw length is about 29 " - 30 " and no problem....
32" arrows 400 spine with feathers .....
You look just like my DR.
So I don't need a bow square to set my nock?
so i bought a triangle compound bow with 24 arrows and im a beginer and was previously using a recurve and now i have a compound did i make the right deicision??
This is off topic. What arrow weight or grains per pound do Olympic Recurve Archers shoot at? What arrow weight do you shoot at and what should beginners use to start with?
Whatever gets the right tune. Start with the shaft's recommended weight, then use judgement to see whether the dynamic spine needs to be stiffer or softer. Heavier points are often desirable for a target shooter, but tune takes priority.
by the way, expensive arrows and cheap arrows really that different? I mean Easton X10 and Easton inspire has huge price gap. Are they really make huge different in terms of stability or overall marks?
Paper test is a + for a proper arrow flight :D www.pinterest.ca/pin/463378249143793760/?lp=true
Hi NUSensei, I am a recurve archer from the Philippines and I have a question in mind regarding the bow tuning from the moment of purchase to shooting on the field. What step by step procedure should I do to ensure that my bow will be shooting true arrows especially when I am to practice on a 30-70meter target range.
Anyway Thank you very very much and More Power to your channel!
Can I just use a hot glue gun for the arrows
Cant you use super glue for inserts
You can use different glues. Hotmelt is preferred because you can easily replace the inserts if you need to.
How much price of this recurve bow ?? My child is 6 years old I like to teach her, we don't have clubs in our city please guide us
A wood 54" bow with around 10-15# limbs should work. My 7 year old draws 20# but she has been doing it for a while and is not a small girl. Try seeing how hard she can pull back on say a rope from a fish scale and that will help at least. The more the better as she will have better range and it will stick in the target better. Then she will need 1000-1400 spine arrows to match the poundage. You should spend around $150 or so for all of this plus a finger tab and arm guard. That will get her started. There are many bows it there but avoid the cheap Chinese ones, order from a reliable archery supply like Lancaster or alternativess.com. Hope that helps
Recently I got a Samick Polaris 66" to shoot in the backyard. It looks identical to the Adventure. Is there just one shop making all these bows? :-) Anyway, I got my package from Lancaster and it came with rest and nock attached so that was nice. The arrows and quiver were nowhere near as good, but it shoots great for casual arching.
www.lancasterarchery.com/samick-polaris-66-takedown-recurve-bow.html
I believe the OMP is a rebranded Saimck.
Can this set take down a home intruder?
Most bows (recurve/compound) from 30 pounds and up likely could put any man down with a broadhead. Doesn't mean you should thought.
@@desertrainfrog1691 What if you want to make them suffer? Would a 20 work?
Wood looks dry for some reason. Just isn't very shiny and healthy looking.
From this point on, don't you dare shoot this bow on video without telling us it's sponsored content :p (kidding, obviously, but sarcasm goes missing on the internet...)
Hi