From an engineer and keeper of old, high-mileage cars, this video was incredibly fascinating and very much appreciated. Thank you for going to the time and effort to set all that up. I have this exact setup (96 i30t) and have just replaced the #3 injector due to it spontaneously going OPEN circuit on the solenoid. Believe it or not, the car did not throw a code for this! These were the original injectors with 250K miles, so I guess it just cried uncle and gave up. Obviously, while the manifold was off, I replaced 1, 3, and 5, as well as completely restored the EGR system. However, I have NOT yet replaced 2, 4, and 6 injectors. New NGK sparks were installed and all coil packs tested, and now the idle performs MUCH better (no more sagging when clutching at redlights). However, I learned something interesting here. Prior to all that work, I would routinely have the extended crank issue at hot. It's better now, but not completely gone. I've now ruled out other possible sources such as the EGR system, fuel pump, and regulator (no gas in the vacuum line), BUT after watching your video, I'm inclined to believe that one of the remaining 3 old injectors is suffering this same leaking issue and thus causing a rich condition on the next start, within a certain time window (usually within an hour or two). If the car sat overnight, it always fired immediately, which probably means 1) pressure in the rail eventually dropped to zero and the leak stopped, and 2) leaked fuel had time to evaporate, depending on valve positions. This probably explained the smell of gas around the car as well. One other interesting tidbit from having replaced only the bank 1 injectors... the live data is now showing almost perfect (0%) long term fuel trim on bank 1, whereas bank 2 long term is hovering in the 8-10% range (indicating overall lean conditions). To me, this would seem to indicate that the remaining old injectors are not exactly healthy, and probably producing a reduced flow and/or less atomized spray? Thanks again for the content!
Update.... finally replaced bank 1 (2, 4, 6) injectors. Fuel trims on that bank are now also perfect AND (most importantly) the extended-crank-at-hot issue is now completely gone. This confirms that one or more (likely) of my original injectors were leaking and creating a rich mixture when starting. Thanks again for your video that helped me confidently diagnose the problem.
working on same car customer change coils his ebay coils are junk new coils installed plugs then they did crank and cam sensors no codes. after fuel pressure test 20 psi then the pump stopped we replaced it new one/ car idles fine now 37 psi thank God use my solos pro to turn off each injector 1 then 2 etc. car will rev to 6k with injectors all on surges. 20mph car . fyi when i turn fuel pump off drops to 0. yes i know it a return to the tank system what's your thoughts.
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZG8rMJwILxA/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](/img/tr.png)
From an engineer and keeper of old, high-mileage cars, this video was incredibly fascinating and very much appreciated. Thank you for going to the time and effort to set all that up. I have this exact setup (96 i30t) and have just replaced the #3 injector due to it spontaneously going OPEN circuit on the solenoid. Believe it or not, the car did not throw a code for this! These were the original injectors with 250K miles, so I guess it just cried uncle and gave up. Obviously, while the manifold was off, I replaced 1, 3, and 5, as well as completely restored the EGR system. However, I have NOT yet replaced 2, 4, and 6 injectors. New NGK sparks were installed and all coil packs tested, and now the idle performs MUCH better (no more sagging when clutching at redlights).
However, I learned something interesting here. Prior to all that work, I would routinely have the extended crank issue at hot. It's better now, but not completely gone. I've now ruled out other possible sources such as the EGR system, fuel pump, and regulator (no gas in the vacuum line), BUT after watching your video, I'm inclined to believe that one of the remaining 3 old injectors is suffering this same leaking issue and thus causing a rich condition on the next start, within a certain time window (usually within an hour or two). If the car sat overnight, it always fired immediately, which probably means 1) pressure in the rail eventually dropped to zero and the leak stopped, and 2) leaked fuel had time to evaporate, depending on valve positions. This probably explained the smell of gas around the car as well.
One other interesting tidbit from having replaced only the bank 1 injectors... the live data is now showing almost perfect (0%) long term fuel trim on bank 1, whereas bank 2 long term is hovering in the 8-10% range (indicating overall lean conditions). To me, this would seem to indicate that the remaining old injectors are not exactly healthy, and probably producing a reduced flow and/or less atomized spray? Thanks again for the content!
Update.... finally replaced bank 1 (2, 4, 6) injectors. Fuel trims on that bank are now also perfect AND (most importantly) the extended-crank-at-hot issue is now completely gone. This confirms that one or more (likely) of my original injectors were leaking and creating a rich mixture when starting. Thanks again for your video that helped me confidently diagnose the problem.
working on same car customer change coils his ebay coils are junk new coils installed plugs then they did crank and cam sensors no codes. after fuel pressure test 20 psi then the pump stopped we replaced it new one/ car idles fine now 37 psi thank God use my solos pro to turn off each injector 1 then 2 etc. car will rev to 6k with injectors all on surges. 20mph car . fyi when i turn fuel pump off drops to 0. yes i know it a return to the tank system what's your thoughts.
Very nice work!...I have a 2000 Max, trying to figure out a stalling problem.
thanks....you will figure it out
stalling at idle...look at idle air control valve and mass air flow sensor