This segment made me think of my 20y old 95 series diesel Land Cruiser. The mods it has. How each mod came from a need. Driving in outback Western Queensland and needed a bull bar and a set of AT tyres up to the task, needed a tow bar to pull trailers, A CB radio for reasons, a Engle fridge in the back so got a 2nd battery, at night in the bush loading the trailer so got sum work lights and a inexpensive roof rack to mount them on..... All needs not desires, and thankfully a reliable useful vehicle as a result.
Rule #1. Never modify the banks' vehicle. The last 3 videos have been some of your best work, John. It's basic stuff everyone alleges to already know, but the view count will show that everyone wants to know the ins and outs.
Just so you know, from my perspective here in the backwoods of North Carolina, USA .Your usual channel content is dam refreshing, a rare enjoyment while learning more about keeping my van ( 2005 Chrysler T & C, 3.8 L, V6 bought at 190k now at 203k). Keep up the top drawer, rare fantastic content!
My dad bought a triton over 20 years ago, mainly to use on his farm, where it is now relegated. It has had a gearbox rebuild and years later a replacement engine but it has done it's service and still goes out on the paddocks, totally stock.
30 years ago, we'd just leave the nice car at home and rely on sheer velocity of a rusty stock HQ to get places off road It wasn't entirely sensible, but it was always exciting
Good point on utilizing the full capablities of a vehicle with good training. I used to drive a 2WD Hilux in Africa years ago and took it places where people would not expect.
Just a quick side note. I fitted some high tensile bolts today (8.8 grade) to a Hiab hydraulic cylinders. The new bolts and washers were supplied without spring washers. Yyyeeeesssssss.
Thanks John you make so much sense I’m over these guys who haven’t even left the dealership and they have already changed half their vehicle. I’m a firm believer in that the manufacturer has done the best job at producing a vehicle that performs at its best with the least compromise in general to it as a whole.
I'm modifying my vehicle at the moment. It's a 1930 Ford Model A that I've stuffed the motor and running gear from a 1980 Daimler Sovereign into. As you say John, stock is best and if I could've bought a Model A with a 6 litre V-12, I'd have bought one.
@@ScottMurrayBestFamilyCars - and if you can find another DB9 with a trashed engine, you'll have the best of both worlds as the resultant vehicle will look and handle even better than your Model A!!
@@stitchjones7134 mate you made my point. Ford haven’t built a decent reliable vehicle in 47 years. Mine was Australian made in 2009. Spent 65% of its life in the workshop. Unfortunately the dealership and Ford treated me as if I didn’t exist. That’s why I’ll never buy another one and also why their on a downward trajectory.
@@justicebroker2271 Can't agree with that. The ford 6 cylinder was a fantastic engine, and falcons equipped with it are winding up kilometres matched only by Toyota. El-Fg were fantastic modern cars. Only reason I sold my BA ute and went to a dual cab was children, the need to accomodate the little horrors and keep two great hairy shepherds out of the cab.
@@stitchjones7134 not knocking the fundamentals of the design. It’s the bean counters and the way the cars were assembled. My xr6 was delivered with 4 flat spotted tyres, a bent xr6 kick plate, missing plastic caps on the wipers and a large scratch on the head lining. Then within 2 months the rear engine seal failed dropping all the oil in my garage. The rear seal failed 2 weeks after repairs again. Then the a/c stopped working. After several attempts to remedy they gave up and said it was fine. The rear bushes then went which were replace with the same crap from factory. Surface rust started forming around the seams in the doors (which were not seam sealed from factory) and rust in the engine bay seams. My factory sub was always a bit off and was found to be wired incorrectly. When the dash had to be removed at year 2 to replace the hvac unit so I could have warm air, as the a/c never worked enough to defog the windows, I called it quits on the car at 3 years and 30,000kms.
@@justicebroker2271 Sadly it seems you got a lemon which happens.... I work in the mines and Toyota's are by far the most overrated car manufacturer. But to say Ford or Toyota make bad cars is just not true as they wouldn't make millions of them.... sadly sometimes we just get unlucky in life.
That was quick! Thanks for the response John. This is what I was hoping for. Yes, way waaaaaay too much time in lockdown watching waaaaaay to many 4WD youtube channels has left me confused and in a Rumsfeldian world of "unknown unknowns". I'm planning that Get-out-of-lockdown-jail "Big Lap" around Oz trip and wanting my Triton and little trailer to be the best it can be for that use. And that "modification porn" is so ubiquitous that I felt bamboozled. "You absolutely need this! And this! Oh, and this is essential! And this will improve your car's ability to go offroad/get you out of bogs/make life easier! And you won't get far without this and this and this!" All of which to my untrained eye looked pretty convincing. That's why I turned to the "expert" in the field. It's good to have things mostly cleared up. I think I'll be keeping the Triton pretty much stock and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
Hey Gary, I have been around Australia 3 times, including Cape York PDR, Great Central Road (both ways) and the Gibb River Road, plus heaps more 4x4 excursions and beach work. My vehicles have been stock, but upgraded tyres. All terrains, not Mud Terrain. Go work on a farm or cattle station and see what vehicles they use on a daily basis there. Most of the after marker hype is just that.
I'm an automotive design engineer, & I've done most of the 'big lap', including almost straight through the middle. If you're not planning on doing too much remote or seriously offroad stuff (The Gibb River Road is not 'offroad' as some would have you believe, rough as it may be in places), a set of all terrains in a very similar size to standard & a compressor will physically get you everywhere you need to go. Beyond that, think about what's likely to be more important to you from a life comfort perspective as you'll spend at least as much time sat in camps as you will driving, so look at a good electrical setup for running a fridge long before other modifications that you may only possibly require. Keep it as lightweight as possible (please don't GVM upgrade, that's simply a symptom of going too far & I still don't know quite how they're legal from a design engineer perspective) & accept your vehicle will be somewhat slower when you add things, like a trailer, & drive accordingly rather than trying to make it drive like it was empty. Most important though, have fun on your journey & don't run out of driving talent, as that will stop you long before not having some of the mods you asked about 👍
Hi Gary, I have a Pajero Sport, that has bog standard suspension, drive train and engine. We only fitted Toyo All Terrain tyres as the originals needed replacing. My wife and I have just returned from a trip to the Pilbara and North West of WA. Our Pajero absolutely ate up the four wheel drive tracks we took it along. I was very impressed with how well it went. Taking things easy, taking your time to choose the right line, having a tyre pressure gauge and a compressor (we got a $120 BCF one that performed faultlessly) so you can adjust the tyre pressures and easily re-inflate to suit the conditions, and a shovel, will allow you to traverse the overwhelming majority of the roads and tracks you will encounter. I did an off road training course in the Kimberley many years ago. The consistent message of the course was if you are faced with a really difficult track ask the question: Do I really have to go this way? If the answer is no, find an alternate route. I think a lot of these blokes posting UA-cam videos are creating entertainment not instruction. If they had to use their own hard earned coin to pay for all the repairs and maintenance they wouldn’t treat their vehicles so badly. They all seem to like massively overloading their vehicles as well. I have done motorcycle trips in the desert and I can tell you, less is more when it comes to carrying a load. Motorcycles teach you how to be comfortable with light weight camping gear. As a motorcyclist it always amazes me how much crap these car “offroaders” recommend you take.
@@bruiser6479 Thanks. That's good to know. I have done a little bit of 4WD'ing years ago but nothing serious. So faced with getting a new car and doing the "Big Lap" with a fair proportion of off road "adventuring" I went down the UA-cam modification rabbit hole. I figured that most cars are made with serious input by the bean counters. If something was good to have and would increase your vehicle's off road ability, safety, get-out-of-bogginess or whatever but added a lot to the bottom line then to remain competitive they might leave it out. An example might be the diff lock you don't get in the poverty packs but you do get in the upper range. I'm told they make a substantial difference in ability in some situations. So I was looking at all the mods in that light. If you're willing to pay for them, do they really work and are the worth it? But it appears that for the sake of the warrantee, the car's already capable performance and the "Bullshit factor" probably not wise to go down that rabbit hole any further.
We recently purchased a Ford Everest Sport Bi-turbo and watching your videos has not only saved us money but it has taught me a lot about how 4x4's work. I am totally geeking out on learning the physics of towing, tyre pressure etc etc. We are doing NO modifications to our car other than maybe A/T's when we do the big lap in 5 or so years. I love watching the 4x4 youtube channels but do so to marvel at what some people call fun rather than a roadmap to our future 4x4 adventures. While we were always going to do a 4x4 course we will also do an advanced driving course so we can drive our car safely and intelligently. Thank you and I look forward to learning more. p.s. I'll be getting a copy of On Bullshit!!
Just been watching the towbar vids Most apt as I've recently fitted a HR bar to my transit VO No spring washers supplied 2 different Ford dealers seemed "unaware" of need for new bolts required for brake rotor replacement Will definitely be chasing that matter up, after your torque to yield segment Thanks for your knowledge John
The only mod I ever did was put a liner of 2mm hot rolled steel on my 1973 Ford Fairmont to protect the crankcase when I took it out into paddocks in western NSW, because said crankcase hung down like dogs' balls.
I have watched your video on tyres and often hear you say mud tyres don't grip well. In practice I have found them to grip better. I used to get the back end slipping when going around corners a little fast on my ute. With mud tyres it never happens. They are extremely noisy but on the up side I have pulled several screws out of them with no penetration. Love em.
Just a word to the wise, the engeneers who design vehicles does so with the internet of getting the job done with the minimum requirements and the cheapest way to do so. If you keep that in mind and do sensable modifications that actually improve on their minimum requirements they built the vehicle to, you're golden.
You've got to modify these things. It's kinda how you make it yours. The hard part can be not doing dumb shit. For instance, our 105 series 1HZ Landcruiser and a turbo... Bit more poke would be nice. Engine rebuild less so. Bit more legal load capacity would be nice, bent diff housing less so. Some tyres and spotlights though, yep. Bull bar, where we live, absolutely. Too many bouncing road hazards not to, but even that's a tradeoff. Also gives a good place to mount a winch which as it turns out is a bloody handy thing to have. Good for straining fences, pulling stumps and occasionally recovering the car from an oops moment. Seems to me though that the best place you can put your money is the fuel station. And when you talk to guys that have been around a while, including the likes of the 24/7 guys, that's what they'll all tell you.
You don’t have to modify to personalise and you don’t have to personalise. Nothing wrong with driving round in a stick vehicle. Only people with an Ego issue believe they have to show off with their mods. The only reason for “personalisation” is for required functionality or comfort. Otherwise don’t bother.
After living in the outback for 12 years, you soon learn you can live without a lot of crap that you see in magazines. I had a 2008 X cab Ranger all I did was taller tires, added 120-liter diesel tank under the alloy tray pulled out some leaf springs, and got a set of King adjustable shocks to control the travel, simple.
Excellent video John. It confirmed my own experiences. You are much kinder to some of those 4WD UA-camrs than I would be. One I watched was so obviously an unacknowledged advertising segment for a business specialising in gvm “upgrades” it was embarrassing. Give me strength. The intelligent option of not exceeding the weight limit of you vehicle by bolting crap on it you don’t need was, unsurprisingly, never a consideration. In my opinion wrecking your transport by doing “hardcore” off-roading is not cost effective. Surely towing a Side By Side recreational vehicle to that 4wd park of your wet dreams is more sensible. You can wreck it to your hearts content and still be able to drive to work on Monday.
Super stuff John. Guys who remapped thier LC 79 V8s and fixed turbos to ths 1HZ engines love your videos. Keep talking the truth mate! Greetings from Sri Lanka. 🇱🇰🇳🇿🇱🇰🇳🇿
Dear John, you said "if I would be in the P.R., I would A end my life and B..." I love that stand up black humor coming out accidentialy (after you told in the beginning that this video wouldn't be scripted). Great!
I am new to the 4wding scene and this is spot on. Having been soaking myself in 4wd videos over the past 2 years, you get caught up tacking all sorts of mods in the to buy list. When I bought my 4wd, I had a mod list that was quite extensive and I have had to cut that back extensively and remind myself that my skill is level is low and I should start small.
Im the same, just about to modify my Pajero, but my mindset is better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. Lift, bash plates, rock slides, winch, muddies...these also protect your car from damage. Im in the position where its not my daily, so the on-road compromises are not so much of an issue.
Totally agree sir! When I used to work at a xxxxxxx dealer, if someone came in with a customer installed cold air intake inside the warranty period - all warranty was null & void. Good tips to the viewers! Thx!!!
Fantastic video. Totally agree. We bought a new Prado in 2012 to tow a 2.5 ton van and have towed it across the Nullarbor 3 times and towed it 2 thirds of the way around Australia with no mods other than a nudge bar and a second battery. Have had no problems because the vehicle has been used and driven within the manufacturers specifications. Some people just don’t know how to drive and think modifications will make them a better driver.
So true! Great topic John. If modifying, there is also research required to keep your vehicle within the law. Be prepared to spend more money on other associated things you didn't account for as a result of a modification. As one thing affects another and the list can go on. The information you shared on the catch can and secondary fuel filter was also very helpful, so thank you.
Hello John, I have ready many online ‘guides’ on modifying differential and transfer case breathers by replacing the OEM breather valve with an after market hose tail then adding a length hose which is then run from the diff (etc.) to a higher point in the vehicle. Sometimes the hose is run to the engine bay, other times to a point behind the rear light fitting or up onto the bodywork somewhere etc. etc. All of ‘for’ arguments talk of reduced pressure inside the diff after dunking it ,hot, in a river and the associated risk of water being sucked into the diff since the OEM valve may be submerged. However the diff, once used in normal running conditions will become warm.The pressure will equalise via the OEM valve and on cooling, the valve with its spring mounted cap and rubber valve cover will close the valve. The diff air pressure will be less than ambient air pressure after cooling whether or not it goes through water and failing leakage will remain that way until operating temperature is reached again. The designing engineers would be aware of this effect. I was wondering if might be a design element included to keep the pressure low while parked as a way of discouraging oil leaking from the seals? Or maybe the pressures in this situation are just too low to matter? Either way I wondered if, instead of adding new non OEM things that can break, it might just be simpler to park up for 10 minutes and allow the diff to cool a bit while I check out the water crossing possibilities, and leave the original breather undisturbed thus avoiding the dramatic air pressure differential issue all together. Thanks for your very informative and entertaining channel. I hope you can find time to respond to my simple question. With best regards, Glenn Luff Sydney, Straya,
Great video. Regards catch cans on DI engines (both diesel and petrol, but specifically diesel,) is that the mix of sooty diesel exhaust and warm moist oil vapours is a great way to brew sludge. Historically in petrol cars that wasn't an issue, as with either a carburettor or port fuel injection, the fuel would wash these deposits off. With G-DI and Diesel, there is no fuel in the inlet tract, just oil vapour and diesel soot. Note: this is one of the reasons it's very important to use the correct oil as it does help mitigate this problem. I completely agree John, that emissions systems are vitally important. But if I had a modern diesel out of warranty, I'd be blocking the EGR system and installing a large filtered catch tank (but still feed the discharge into the intake, not vent the catch tank to atmosphere.) If my vehicle was under warranty, I'd leave it stock and 3 to 6 months before it expired I'd be getting the dealer to take off the intake and flush all the crap out of it. So that as the warranty expired I could enact changes to prevent the build up in the first place. Because taking off a diesel intake manifold and associated plumbing is a royal pain in the arse. And an intake manifold full of sludge is hurting economy, emissions and performance.
Good luck getting that cleanout under warranty. An Audi R8 driver in USA did get that walnut shell treatment he says every 3 months, by proving his horsepower the day after taking delivery of the vehicle...by dynoing it. When the sludge strangled sufficient horsepower he went back to the dealer with the dyno printouts and suggested that, as he was an "influencer" it would behoove Audi to clean the inlet tract, free, gratis and for nothing...because he wasn't happy with a 10% loss in 3 months. So they did....every 3 months $1200 eaten by the dealer. Might be more difficult with a Toyota diesel???? (what horsepower?) Worth a crack, Nigel?
And tyres. Most 4wds come standard with highway terrain tyres that can easily punctured (thinner sidewalls for lightness) and the tread soon fills with mud and crap. A quality (not aggressive) all-terrain tyre gives improved off road safety and will still be very good on sealed roads.
Hi John, this is Sam with the LS powered GU Patrol from Dingo Piss Creek (ps- I don't own an LS powered Patrol, never have, never will). You make some very valid points about modifications, but you were talking exclusively about new cars and the potential consequences of modifying new cars relating to durability and warranty, but what about old cars that don't have a warranty? My 32 year old Landcruiser needed some new springs, so I got some that just happened to be 50mm raised. It's true, the higher the lift and the larger the tyres, the less drivable it will become on road. When you fit lockers (which I don't have on mine), you're putting more pressure on the axles and more likely to bust something. If by chance my engine shits itself or my transmission or differential destroy themselves, that's ok because I have plenty of spares for these in my garage. Another reason that some people like to modify their vehicles is an outlet during these difficult Covid lockdowns. Some people enjoy playing around with old cars and helps distract them from all the bullshit going on in this world today.
John Cadogan, very well said! Most dual cab 4WD in Oz are very capable off road. Modifying a new vehicle is not necessarily the best solution. Purchased Hilux N80 SR5. It will go to places people would not take a 60k vehicle. The only modifications I have is hybrid all terrain tyres and black ice air freshener. Once you start modifications, it is endless. 2 inch lift? Let's get a diff drop, to take the strain out of the CV's. Change durable OEM shockers and leaf springs to some after market parts of questionable quality. Fit bigger tyres, oh need different upper control arms to accommodate. What happened to my fuel economy? Let's get a tune and run some additional fuel and boost! I know a few engine reconditioners rubbing their hands. The list is endless... Folks, save yourselves some money and spend it on travelling. I am on the way to Dingo Piss Creek....
I don't mind the unscripted vids at all John, they're great. I also like the targeted scripted ones - swings and roundabouts. Either way we are exposed to your experience and auto-wisdom so what's not to love?! I don't go much on the heavy dedicated 4WD ones (blue singlet/towing the aloooominum shitwhaaa) but there ya go, horses for courses. Thank you.
About stock vehicle capability, I've done the whole Fraser island experience in a Pajero with 2 inch springs and new Bridgestone street tyres (20PSI) in 99% 4H.
I bought a Triton from John’s crowd, delivery about 9 months ago. The TOTAL extra’s have been: seat and steering covers, Mitzi tow bar, floor mats, air compressor, Tire deflator, max trax, folding shovel , jumper leads, 1 strap, two shackles and a few tools (including cable ties and insulation tape). latest edition is two 5 watt radios for the second person to guide you through any tricky stuff. I go out (live in Perth) every second weekend and have had a great time discovering the massive and beautiful West Australian coast line. I go lots of places and just try a little more each time. The standard tires are pretty good and the deflation and inflation delays just give you time to reflect and plan things. highway performance is great when there are no modification. I haven’t had any formal training but that might be next.
An additional fuel filter is handy for water separation. I've had experience of damage caused very quickly after the warning light comes on. A pre filter with a warning light will give you some leeway to get the car to a mechanic..
I am not against modifications, but based on my experience I have found that is always a gamble. I have seen modifications that are legitimately well done and improved the vehicle. However, I have seen modifications that have absolutely ruin the vehicle. My opinion is is stick to stock and just get the vehicle that you want in first place and not modify it.
Great topic John. Been watching your videos for a while. Time to chime in I think. High tensile bolts episodes were on point. I’m a vehicle bodybuilder by trade. They just don’t teach the basics anymore. Bought the last of the Pajeros and have to fit a spare Tyre lift kit just so I can open the back door with the camper attached. You would think that after all these years this problem would have been sorted. But at $60,000 drive away I’m still feeling it haha. Keep up the good work cheers.
Liking the unscripted videos John, never been a fan of the modified vehicles, always been a believer in buying a car, Ute, truck, tractor that actually suits my needs and wants and to best honest that mentally has served me very well, I own VWs and have done for 20 years now and really haven't had issues with them, I generally go for the top spec model and service them at half the recommend service intervals. With my tractors it's the same mentally buy the top spec model with the highest HP for the model series and 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 years later they are still all working as they should, that being said they seldom see a dealership once I take delivery of them, I use independent mechanics for the road registered stuff.
Living this format. Hendrick's, mosquitos and all. I 100% agree with you on the upgrades. Also agree on how capable these vehicles are when driven carefully and correctly off-road. For mine, I dreamt of all the things I'd do to my FJ once I had it but I also decided to go one by one as I needed it for real. The only vehicle mods I've needed so far after 2+ years and lots of off-road work, are all terrain tyres and an off-roading front bumper replacement bar with a light bar attached.
You've completely talked me out of getting a lift and tires for a car I don't even own yet. Also I bought On Bullshit", which is a great title. Thank you!
Just a note 24/7 Graham drives a stock D Max in the same places the rest go, AT Tyers of course. This is what John is saying, Keep it simple. Great video John Cheers
I remember reading that the first automobile crossing of the Simpson Desert was completed in a stock Nissan G60 with Mum, Dad and two kids. All had a great time and lived...that back in was 1962...I think a stock HiRangatron will be ok too.
There is an old video somewhere of a group of guys engineering a 6 wheel drive Vehicle, testing in the African bush traversing some hideous roads. In the video the presenter is showcasing the incredible capabilities of this vehicle, its huge beyond anything ever seen before, this 6 wheel drive all terrain master piece traveling down this impossible road, the presenter was going nuts on how well this vehicle was going! A 1955 Land Rover stock overtook them in the background.
Something I've learnt is that when you're new to 4wdriving, modifications give you confidence in a vehicle where as an experienced 4wdriver has the confidence and doesn't need so many mods. The experienced 4wdriver knows what the vehicle is capable of. An inexperienced 4wdriver truly believes they need those mods.
I think it’s a case of many people have all the gear and no idea. It’s all about the right mods at the right time, bar work, winch, suspension, tyres are to me the must-haves.
I've found starting with less mods is generally better. If your smart and willing to learn as you go in my opinion it's safer to be limited by the vehicle rather than your skill. If your new ranger with nothing but lift and tyres won't get up something that better than winding up in the middle of a track that your skill level has no business being there lol. That being said a skilled driver will take that ranger up most things anyway
@@bloorie87 Winches for me are an insurance measure, the bar, facilitates it and protects from roos and livestock in the country. I drive a 200 series cruiser, and if you bog a vehicle that heavy (I haven't yet) you'd be kicking yourself if you could have winched out.
i have an original, first Gen Suzuki 4 stroke , i giggle and laugh when i drive past some wanker with a BUILT 4x4 with all the toys.. $80,000 rig.. Many times at Fraser island.. the huge rig, with camper on tow.. buried in the sand.. on a track.. I select low range 2 gear, and drive around them.. then grab the Old Turfer Winch.. and help to winch them out.. my Suzi is over 40 years old, has been maintained, it is basic.. and i have lost how many times i have driven on a advanced track, straight past a Brand New Range Rover.. stuck..
62 series stock only mod 33x12.5x15 kumhos MT. Been round Australia and through Simmo desert twice. Paid $2500 spent $1500 in servicing and making it trip ready. Back in the day I used to build disposable motors Holdens and Datsuns, Build one one week blow it up the next great times.
For me, buying the vehicle that meets your needs right out of the box is the best thing you can do. I have a small car with a factory fitted wider wheels/rubber and a sportier suspension tune. That's all I wanted and I didn't need more power, etc etc. Turns out if I had bought an unmodified car and then wanted the above, the get to that level would've cost more than going to the same spec level ex-factory. Made sense!
I have a bog stock Toyota Prado that I have had for 23 years. It has been everywhere that most 4x4 owners have on their bucket lists numerous times. I have not worried about anything other than a 2 inch ARB OME suspension package. I would not hesitate to put this on any new 4x4 as it has been very useful on numerous occasions where I have been going too fast through things and it has just soaked up the shocks where previously I would have made use of the bash plates. I know that they are bash plates and they are called that because you can bash them but I have found that once you have punched them up to touch both the front and rear fuel tanks it is quite inconvenient to take them off and bash them back to shape. Let alone Toyotas misguided decision to make some of them plastic that I have duly ripped off. I have pulled out numerous other cars with ease and that is with just the use of correct tyre pressures. Since the suspension I have no more need for the bash plates as I have stopped hitting things. Best money ever spent. In saying that there is no such animal as ABS ESC or anything like that in the car to stuff up.
Great video with even greater information. Just downloaded the “on bullshit” book and started reading. Thanks for all the work you are devoting to giving us these great videos.
great information. so many people think they need all that stuff. I purposely bought my dual cab and didn't change it for a year, I then thought what I need for my application, did a few tweaks and it ticks all the boxes for me
There’s a lot of great 4WD mods and there’s a lot of bad 4WD mods. I believe there’s some really nice ways of improving your 4WD ie. Suspension upgrades to high end 2.5” Fox coil over set up, mods like this will 100% improve the on and off-road drive. Drive a Ranger Raptor VS a standard Ranger you’ll feel the difference.
It's much the same in Australia. Some people run the gauntlet but most won't. Although with many more newbies to the enthusiast car scene who believe the bullshit it seems more common
My brother bought a three pronged suppository suv, took it to dingo piss creek, hit a pot hole bent alloy rim, run flat tyre went flat........spare tyre one of those things off a wheel barrow.........great modification south of the black stump.
So very glad to have had this one pop up in my feed John. It is a slippery slope, and I was (pray for me that the past tense actually applies here) on it. As for unscripted vs. scripted, keep them coming either way mate. The information, coupled with the perspective of experience is always going to be needed by today's consumer.
Yup…the only mod I’ve done to my Fortuner was a set of slightly taller KO2s to replace those crappy Dunlop AT25s and proper recovery gear. 90% of the trails you’d want to go to here in Pakistan are dirt and rock…in the mountains or the forests up north. If you pick the right line, you don’t need a lift..slow and steady with the right pressures gets you where you need to go.
What you don’t seem to realise this is some people can afford to modify their vehicle as much as they want without it hurting, and it gives them a great amount of pleasure. Some of it might not be needed, like the supercharger on my FJ cruiser, but it puts a smile on my face so it’s well worth the money.
I find that modifying your vehicle, a bike in my particular case, is sometimes a must. Provided you know exactly how it is going to be used and possible issues. Sometimes manufacturers make severe mistakes. My FJR was limited to 4kg rear rack load (after top box installation), so I had to modify the subframe and reinforce it. Sliders, heating grips, nav equipment, additional cargo storage... , just do what you need and avoid any changes for the sake of change alone. Know what you need, adjust your vehicle for that, avoid the rest.
I did a trip to frazer Island this year i bt50 with a heap done to it. All I need was the second battery and the awning was nice. The 35 front locker and lift did nothing for that trip, I do use thes for had tracks but I think a lot of people go to far for these trips
Yeah I did Fraser island in a bog standard Jeep Wrangler with street tyres on it and drove around jacked up Discoverys with enormous tyres bogged up to the axles wondering why they were struggling. Save fifteen grand and let your tyres down, dudes.
I purchase a new vehicle every 2 years (I am a TPI) and the only modification, (other from what I can squeeze out of the dealership for free) I ever make is to add a daschcam. As you recommend buy the vehicle you need not the poverty pack and DIY the rest. Thanks for the enlightenment. Regards Tony PS make sure that your daschcam has bump/impact record feature for those little bumps in the car park. They work a treat when you can send the recording to your insurance company.
Great video. Some people modify their cars due to being influenced buy what they see and not what they need, it then can turn into an addictive hobby. I can appreciate the time and effort they put it their vehicles though.
Loving these last few videos mate keep them up.. I have a ZD30 GU that i have owned for 10 yrs its done everything I have ever needed it to do but I have a catch can on that as its not a common rail. After a current painful drama of some new steps made by a local fabricator I am kicking myself that I have wasted my money. I am at the point of looking to upgrade to a Y62 and dont plan to mess with that once I buy it.
Usually the lifts are to achieve a larger tyre diameter into the wheel arch and increase the diff pumpkin clearance in most cases or pure aesthetics in others , go figure . 4x4 mods are HUGE business along with all the add on extras , now more than ever with Covid making Australians travelling their own country . Thanks John 😎🍻
Pre-filter primarily to seperate water contamination & ideally alert operator. Water will destroy CRD high pressure pump & injectors with a relatively small amount. Unfortunately water in diesel fuel is just too common & consequences are butt clenching costs. Really happy with my 'Water watch' system.
Heard you quote Frankfurt, then you held up the book. Love you more and more every video. Frankfurt is amazing. Good summary by the way. I give the essay to my students every year and we talk our way through it. 👍
Like number 665. The across the road neighbour of The Beast. Yes! I don't mind the unscripted versions. The information content appears to be still very high. I always learn something.
Spotlights, bullbar, roof racks, 2 inch lift, tow bar. Enough to see skip, smash him if you can't avoid him, get over rocks at the farm, tow and carry long shit. All I need as a tradie.
In 2016 I sold my Jeep GC 3.0 diesel to my daughters friend father, it only had 13k on the clock. About 6 months later I heard he had it "tuned for performance" but the engine blew a hole in the number 6 piston and failed head gaskets. Off to the dealership he went with warranty in hand, the dealer scanned the ECU and said NUP, you're on your own mate. 25K later he had a replacement engine fitted that had over 70k on the clock.
Some engines just shouldn't be tuned. Most are pushed as hard as they should be from the factory. There are a few instances where tuning is possible, like some 4JJ1's and 1VD's are strong enough for a bit more boost. My cousin has a 4JJ1 with 200k kms with an 800Nm 40psi tune. But these engines underperform and are very understressed from the factory.
By the way…I would draw a clear distinction between Ronny Dahl and 4WD 24/7…only one of those UA-cam channels actively markets specific products to people, whereas the other is very honest about what you don’t or might need. Ronny put out a video clearly showing how capable the Hilux was without any mods at all.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 ronny is not honest. When was the last time he mentioned he paid for something with his own money like he did religiously in the beginning of his career. That hilux he has is a sponsored walking advert. He is no different to 4wd 24/7 😂. 4wd 24 7 also did videos testing stock standard 4wds in head to head comparisons. Take your blinkers off mate, your being conned lol.
Hi John. Love your work. Could you do an episode on engine oil temperature. Particularly how hot is too hot. Do some oils cope with heat better than others. Took my cammed VE SSV on a track day. Oil temp reached 148 degrees C. Oil was Penrite Racing 5w40 which I understand can withstand temps up to 200 degrees C. Would love an engineer’s opinion on whether engine mods create higher temps and if certain oils can protect the engine better at higher temps and if not, when should an engine oil cooler be considered. Cheers. Bernie
re catch can, we have a 2019 Pajero Sport and a 2019 CX5, we fitted a catch can to the Pajero Sport and drain about 50ml of oil from it every 5000K with a daily drive of 40km @ 100kph along the M7. We didn't fit a catch can to the CX5 as it has an inbuilt oil separator as part of the PCV system. It's interesting that Mazda feels it necessary to remove the oil before sending the crankcase fumes to the inlet manifold.
All good points and advice here John, i do like to watch the odd 4x4 YT vids of Cape trips etc, and while many of these travellers are often well (Over) prepared for whatever comes at them, I take particular attention to how well (or not) the unmodified vehicles perform & are doing, which can often reflect greater driving skills &/or complete stupidity I guess, but makes for a entertaining watch. I have had a number of 4x4 utes, tojo’s, wagons, etc (Toyota’s of course) over the years and have never really needed to make anything more than a few personal mods, I dont raise suspension, although my 200 series had it done when I got it, it doesn’t help for most road use and I never did any real 4x4ing with it anyhow, i have towed large trailers full of shit thru the Maytown tracks with a standard 4x4 Hilux without any issues, the Hilux & trailer were both hired of course, because hired gear can do so much more than ur own gear I have found as a rule, haha. Mods can be nice, but yeah, how really necessary are they, what I think can really help though in just about any situation is: a bit of common sense. Great vid. Cheers
This segment made me think of my 20y old 95 series diesel Land Cruiser. The mods it has. How each mod came from a need. Driving in outback Western Queensland and needed a bull bar and a set of AT tyres up to the task, needed a tow bar to pull trailers, A CB radio for reasons, a Engle fridge in the back so got a 2nd battery, at night in the bush loading the trailer so got sum work lights and a inexpensive roof rack to mount them on..... All needs not desires, and thankfully a reliable useful vehicle as a result.
Rule #1. Never modify the banks' vehicle.
The last 3 videos have been some of your best work, John. It's basic stuff everyone alleges to already know, but the view count will show that everyone wants to know the ins and outs.
True this. Always think about who actually owns the vehicle when it turns to shit.
that is why I keep asking the bank to spend their money on maintenance and tire replacements; they own it, they should help with the upkeep!
Just so you know, from my perspective here in the backwoods of North Carolina, USA .Your usual channel content is dam refreshing, a rare enjoyment while learning more about keeping my van ( 2005 Chrysler T & C, 3.8 L, V6 bought at 190k now at 203k). Keep up the top drawer, rare fantastic content!
Great video John. In other words… “if it ain't broke, don't fix it”👍
My dad bought a triton over 20 years ago, mainly to use on his farm, where it is now relegated. It has had a gearbox rebuild and years later a replacement engine but it has done it's service and still goes out on the paddocks, totally stock.
30 years ago, we'd just leave the nice car at home and rely on sheer velocity of a rusty stock HQ to get places off road
It wasn't entirely sensible, but it was always exciting
Good point on utilizing the full capablities of a vehicle with good training. I used to drive a 2WD Hilux in Africa years ago and took it places where people would not expect.
Operational proficiency - best moment ever. Even better than the ... well there's been too many to mention.
Just a quick side note. I fitted some high tensile bolts today (8.8 grade) to a Hiab hydraulic cylinders. The new bolts and washers were supplied without spring washers. Yyyeeeesssssss.
Hahahahah... I see what you did there.
Thanks John you make so much sense I’m over these guys who haven’t even left the dealership and they have already changed half their vehicle. I’m a firm believer in that the manufacturer has done the best job at producing a vehicle that performs at its best with the least compromise in general to it as a whole.
Just ordered 4” lift, bull bars, a snorkel, and 35’s…the Sheila’s will love it…yay💪💉😷🚀
I'm modifying my vehicle at the moment. It's a 1930 Ford Model A that I've stuffed the motor and running gear from a 1980 Daimler Sovereign into. As you say John, stock is best and if I could've bought a Model A with a 6 litre V-12, I'd have bought one.
Surely there's a crashed Aston Martin DB9 out there somewhere...
@@ScottMurrayBestFamilyCars - and if you can find another DB9 with a trashed engine, you'll have the best of both worlds as the resultant vehicle will look and handle even better than your Model A!!
Man, that pause for a bit of Hendrick's was the best.
I modified a Ford 9 years ago. I traded it in for a Toyota. All the issues the Ford came with from factory were solved by converting it to a Toyota.
I have a ford thats 50 this year. I have another ford that is 47. Had a Toyota too, great ute. But not worth spit compared to my Fords ;)
@@stitchjones7134 mate you made my point. Ford haven’t built a decent reliable vehicle in 47 years. Mine was Australian made in 2009. Spent 65% of its life in the workshop. Unfortunately the dealership and Ford treated me as if I didn’t exist. That’s why I’ll never buy another one and also why their on a downward trajectory.
@@justicebroker2271 Can't agree with that. The ford 6 cylinder was a fantastic engine, and falcons equipped with it are winding up kilometres matched only by Toyota. El-Fg were fantastic modern cars. Only reason I sold my BA ute and went to a dual cab was children, the need to accomodate the little horrors and keep two great hairy shepherds out of the cab.
@@stitchjones7134 not knocking the fundamentals of the design. It’s the bean counters and the way the cars were assembled. My xr6 was delivered with 4 flat spotted tyres, a bent xr6 kick plate, missing plastic caps on the wipers and a large scratch on the head lining. Then within 2 months the rear engine seal failed dropping all the oil in my garage. The rear seal failed 2 weeks after repairs again. Then the a/c stopped working. After several attempts to remedy they gave up and said it was fine. The rear bushes then went which were replace with the same crap from factory. Surface rust started forming around the seams in the doors (which were not seam sealed from factory) and rust in the engine bay seams. My factory sub was always a bit off and was found to be wired incorrectly. When the dash had to be removed at year 2 to replace the hvac unit so I could have warm air, as the a/c never worked enough to defog the windows, I called it quits on the car at 3 years and 30,000kms.
@@justicebroker2271 Sadly it seems you got a lemon which happens.... I work in the mines and Toyota's are by far the most overrated car manufacturer.
But to say Ford or Toyota make bad cars is just not true as they wouldn't make millions of them.... sadly sometimes we just get unlucky in life.
John, I like where you are going with the DIY stuff. Looking forward to the new wave of videos. Thank you
That was quick!
Thanks for the response John.
This is what I was hoping for.
Yes, way waaaaaay too much time in lockdown watching waaaaaay to many 4WD youtube channels has left me confused and in a Rumsfeldian world of "unknown unknowns".
I'm planning that Get-out-of-lockdown-jail "Big Lap" around Oz trip and wanting my Triton and little trailer to be the best it can be for that use.
And that "modification porn" is so ubiquitous that I felt bamboozled.
"You absolutely need this! And this! Oh, and this is essential! And this will improve your car's ability to go offroad/get you out of bogs/make life easier! And you won't get far without this and this and this!"
All of which to my untrained eye looked pretty convincing.
That's why I turned to the "expert" in the field.
It's good to have things mostly cleared up.
I think I'll be keeping the Triton pretty much stock and see how it goes.
Thanks for the advice.
Much appreciated.
Hey Gary, I have been around Australia 3 times, including Cape York PDR, Great Central Road (both ways) and the Gibb River Road, plus heaps more 4x4 excursions and beach work. My vehicles have been stock, but upgraded tyres. All terrains, not Mud Terrain. Go work on a farm or cattle station and see what vehicles they use on a daily basis there. Most of the after marker hype is just that.
No worries Gary. All the best. Great question mate.
I'm an automotive design engineer, & I've done most of the 'big lap', including almost straight through the middle. If you're not planning on doing too much remote or seriously offroad stuff (The Gibb River Road is not 'offroad' as some would have you believe, rough as it may be in places), a set of all terrains in a very similar size to standard & a compressor will physically get you everywhere you need to go. Beyond that, think about what's likely to be more important to you from a life comfort perspective as you'll spend at least as much time sat in camps as you will driving, so look at a good electrical setup for running a fridge long before other modifications that you may only possibly require. Keep it as lightweight as possible (please don't GVM upgrade, that's simply a symptom of going too far & I still don't know quite how they're legal from a design engineer perspective) & accept your vehicle will be somewhat slower when you add things, like a trailer, & drive accordingly rather than trying to make it drive like it was empty. Most important though, have fun on your journey & don't run out of driving talent, as that will stop you long before not having some of the mods you asked about 👍
Hi Gary, I have a Pajero Sport, that has bog standard suspension, drive train and engine. We only fitted Toyo All Terrain tyres as the originals needed replacing. My wife and I have just returned from a trip to the Pilbara and North West of WA. Our Pajero absolutely ate up the four wheel drive tracks we took it along. I was very impressed with how well it went.
Taking things easy, taking your time to choose the right line, having a tyre pressure gauge and a compressor (we got a $120 BCF one that performed faultlessly) so you can adjust the tyre pressures and easily re-inflate to suit the conditions, and a shovel, will allow you to traverse the overwhelming majority of the roads and tracks you will encounter.
I did an off road training course in the Kimberley many years ago. The consistent message of the course was if you are faced with a really difficult track ask the question: Do I really have to go this way? If the answer is no, find an alternate route. I think a lot of these blokes posting UA-cam videos are creating entertainment not instruction. If they had to use their own hard earned coin to pay for all the repairs and maintenance they wouldn’t treat their vehicles so badly.
They all seem to like massively overloading their vehicles as well. I have done motorcycle trips in the desert and I can tell you, less is more when it comes to carrying a load. Motorcycles teach you how to be comfortable with light weight camping gear. As a motorcyclist it always amazes me how much crap these car “offroaders” recommend you take.
@@bruiser6479 Thanks. That's good to know.
I have done a little bit of 4WD'ing years ago but nothing serious.
So faced with getting a new car and doing the "Big Lap" with a fair proportion of off road "adventuring" I went down the UA-cam modification rabbit hole.
I figured that most cars are made with serious input by the bean counters.
If something was good to have and would increase your vehicle's off road ability, safety, get-out-of-bogginess or whatever but added a lot to the bottom line then to remain competitive they might leave it out.
An example might be the diff lock you don't get in the poverty packs but you do get in the upper range.
I'm told they make a substantial difference in ability in some situations.
So I was looking at all the mods in that light.
If you're willing to pay for them, do they really work and are the worth it?
But it appears that for the sake of the warrantee, the car's already capable performance and the "Bullshit factor" probably not wise to go down that rabbit hole any further.
Well done Dude, you've talked me out of doing a Dyno tune, good work!
We recently purchased a Ford Everest Sport Bi-turbo and watching your videos has not only saved us money but it has taught me a lot about how 4x4's work. I am totally geeking out on learning the physics of towing, tyre pressure etc etc. We are doing NO modifications to our car other than maybe A/T's when we do the big lap in 5 or so years. I love watching the 4x4 youtube channels but do so to marvel at what some people call fun rather than a roadmap to our future 4x4 adventures. While we were always going to do a 4x4 course we will also do an advanced driving course so we can drive our car safely and intelligently. Thank you and I look forward to learning more. p.s. I'll be getting a copy of On Bullshit!!
Mate . 90% thru the video , started to search for Frankfurt. And low and behold , a Ebook copy borrowed from the library . Thx mate
Best most honest video regarding modifications, cheers John for clearing up the bull.
Loaded this up and immediately went to the comments... I was a bit disappointed... Now, back to you, John...
Just been watching the towbar vids
Most apt as I've recently fitted a HR bar to my transit VO
No spring washers supplied
2 different Ford dealers seemed "unaware" of need for new bolts required for brake rotor replacement
Will definitely be chasing that matter up, after your torque to yield segment
Thanks for your knowledge John
The only mod I ever did was put a liner of 2mm hot rolled steel on my 1973 Ford Fairmont to protect the crankcase when I took it out into paddocks in western NSW, because said crankcase hung down like dogs' balls.
"Get better training!"
Now there's a mantra that will apply prior to modding ANY vehicle - on or off-road!!!
Also should apply to politicians
I prefer the phrase, " learn better". Too many people pass the buck and don't take individual responsibility.
Then, When you get training they say "fit a snorkel and get a 2" lift"
If your uploading and posting videos at 9 - 10 pm at night your dedication is appreciated. Keep up the good work.
I have watched your video on tyres and often hear you say mud tyres don't grip well. In practice I have found them to grip better. I used to get the back end slipping when going around corners a little fast on my ute. With mud tyres it never happens. They are extremely noisy but on the up side I have pulled several screws out of them with no penetration. Love em.
Most honest and non biased auto expert on the net. Keep it up mate. Stay strong and resist the seductive prowess of the mod marketing Sirens. Subbed.
Just a word to the wise, the engeneers who design vehicles does so with the internet of getting the job done with the minimum requirements and the cheapest way to do so. If you keep that in mind and do sensable modifications that actually improve on their minimum requirements they built the vehicle to, you're golden.
You've got to modify these things. It's kinda how you make it yours.
The hard part can be not doing dumb shit. For instance, our 105 series 1HZ Landcruiser and a turbo... Bit more poke would be nice. Engine rebuild less so. Bit more legal load capacity would be nice, bent diff housing less so.
Some tyres and spotlights though, yep. Bull bar, where we live, absolutely. Too many bouncing road hazards not to, but even that's a tradeoff. Also gives a good place to mount a winch which as it turns out is a bloody handy thing to have. Good for straining fences, pulling stumps and occasionally recovering the car from an oops moment.
Seems to me though that the best place you can put your money is the fuel station. And when you talk to guys that have been around a while, including the likes of the 24/7 guys, that's what they'll all tell you.
You don’t have to modify to personalise and you don’t have to personalise. Nothing wrong with driving round in a stick vehicle. Only people with an Ego issue believe they have to show off with their mods. The only reason for “personalisation” is for required functionality or comfort. Otherwise don’t bother.
After living in the outback for 12 years, you soon learn you can live without a lot of crap that you see in magazines. I had a 2008 X cab Ranger all I did was taller tires, added 120-liter diesel tank under the alloy tray pulled out some leaf springs, and got a set of King adjustable shocks to control the travel, simple.
Excellent video John. It confirmed my own experiences. You are much kinder to some of those 4WD UA-camrs than I would be. One I watched was so obviously an unacknowledged advertising segment for a business specialising in gvm “upgrades” it was embarrassing. Give me strength. The intelligent option of not exceeding the weight limit of you vehicle by bolting crap on it you don’t need was, unsurprisingly, never a consideration. In my opinion wrecking your transport by doing “hardcore” off-roading is not cost effective. Surely towing a Side By Side recreational vehicle to that 4wd park of your wet dreams is more sensible. You can wreck it to your hearts content and still be able to drive to work on Monday.
Super stuff John. Guys who remapped thier LC 79 V8s and fixed turbos to ths 1HZ engines love your videos. Keep talking the truth mate! Greetings from Sri Lanka. 🇱🇰🇳🇿🇱🇰🇳🇿
Dear John, you said "if I would be in the P.R., I would A end my life and B..." I love that stand up black humor coming out accidentialy (after you told in the beginning that this video wouldn't be scripted). Great!
Hi John, a great video. Thanks. You kept the sarcasm to a level that left your information as truly instructive. Many thanks and cheers.
I am new to the 4wding scene and this is spot on. Having been soaking myself in 4wd videos over the past 2 years, you get caught up tacking all sorts of mods in the to buy list. When I bought my 4wd, I had a mod list that was quite extensive and I have had to cut that back extensively and remind myself that my skill is level is low and I should start small.
Im the same, just about to modify my Pajero, but my mindset is better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. Lift, bash plates, rock slides, winch, muddies...these also protect your car from damage. Im in the position where its not my daily, so the on-road compromises are not so much of an issue.
Totally agree sir! When I used to work at a xxxxxxx dealer, if someone came in with a customer installed cold air intake inside the warranty period - all warranty was null & void. Good tips to the viewers! Thx!!!
Fantastic video. Totally agree. We bought a new Prado in 2012 to tow a 2.5 ton van and have towed it across the Nullarbor 3 times and towed it 2 thirds of the way around Australia with no mods other than a nudge bar and a second battery. Have had no problems because the vehicle has been used and driven within the manufacturers specifications. Some people just don’t know how to drive and think modifications will make them a better driver.
So true! Great topic John. If modifying, there is also research required to keep your vehicle within the law. Be prepared to spend more money on other associated things you didn't account for as a result of a modification. As one thing affects another and the list can go on. The information you shared on the catch can and secondary fuel filter was also very helpful, so thank you.
Hello John,
I have ready many online ‘guides’ on modifying differential and transfer case breathers by replacing the OEM breather valve with an after market hose tail then adding a length hose which is then run from the diff (etc.) to a higher point in the vehicle. Sometimes the hose is run to the engine bay, other times to a point behind the rear light fitting or up onto the bodywork somewhere etc. etc.
All of ‘for’ arguments talk of reduced pressure inside the diff after dunking it ,hot, in a river and the associated risk of water being sucked into the diff since the OEM valve may be submerged.
However the diff, once used in normal running conditions will become warm.The pressure will equalise via the OEM valve and on cooling, the valve with its spring mounted cap and rubber valve cover will close the valve. The diff air pressure will be less than ambient air pressure after cooling whether or not it goes through water and failing leakage will remain that way until operating temperature is reached again.
The designing engineers would be aware of this effect. I was wondering if might be a design element included to keep the pressure low while parked as a way of discouraging oil leaking from the seals? Or maybe the pressures in this situation are just too low to matter?
Either way I wondered if, instead of adding new non OEM things that can break, it might just be simpler to park up for 10 minutes and allow the diff to cool a bit while I check out the water crossing possibilities, and leave the original breather undisturbed thus avoiding the dramatic air pressure differential issue all together.
Thanks for your very informative and entertaining channel. I hope you can find time to respond to my simple question.
With best regards,
Glenn Luff
Sydney,
Straya,
Great video. Regards catch cans on DI engines (both diesel and petrol, but specifically diesel,) is that the mix of sooty diesel exhaust and warm moist oil vapours is a great way to brew sludge. Historically in petrol cars that wasn't an issue, as with either a carburettor or port fuel injection, the fuel would wash these deposits off. With G-DI and Diesel, there is no fuel in the inlet tract, just oil vapour and diesel soot. Note: this is one of the reasons it's very important to use the correct oil as it does help mitigate this problem.
I completely agree John, that emissions systems are vitally important. But if I had a modern diesel out of warranty, I'd be blocking the EGR system and installing a large filtered catch tank (but still feed the discharge into the intake, not vent the catch tank to atmosphere.) If my vehicle was under warranty, I'd leave it stock and 3 to 6 months before it expired I'd be getting the dealer to take off the intake and flush all the crap out of it. So that as the warranty expired I could enact changes to prevent the build up in the first place. Because taking off a diesel intake manifold and associated plumbing is a royal pain in the arse. And an intake manifold full of sludge is hurting economy, emissions and performance.
Good luck getting that cleanout under warranty.
An Audi R8 driver in USA did get that walnut shell treatment he says every 3 months, by proving his horsepower the day after taking delivery of the vehicle...by dynoing it.
When the sludge strangled sufficient horsepower he went back to the dealer with the dyno printouts and suggested that, as he was an "influencer" it would behoove Audi to clean the inlet tract, free, gratis and for nothing...because he wasn't happy with a 10% loss in 3 months.
So they did....every 3 months $1200 eaten by the dealer.
Might be more difficult with a Toyota diesel???? (what horsepower?)
Worth a crack, Nigel?
GOLD. Including the mozzi kill.
Only mods needed is CB air compressor and recovery points, maybe a winch if going out solo!
And tyres. Most 4wds come standard with highway terrain tyres that can easily punctured (thinner sidewalls for lightness) and the tread soon fills with mud and crap. A quality (not aggressive) all-terrain tyre gives improved off road safety and will still be very good on sealed roads.
@@Wdeane1957 yes sorry I thought that was just a given and he mentioned that but most importantly Tyres
Hi John, this is Sam with the LS powered GU Patrol from Dingo Piss Creek (ps- I don't own an LS powered Patrol, never have, never will). You make some very valid points about modifications, but you were talking exclusively about new cars and the potential consequences of modifying new cars relating to durability and warranty, but what about old cars that don't have a warranty? My 32 year old Landcruiser needed some new springs, so I got some that just happened to be 50mm raised. It's true, the higher the lift and the larger the tyres, the less drivable it will become on road. When you fit lockers (which I don't have on mine), you're putting more pressure on the axles and more likely to bust something. If by chance my engine shits itself or my transmission or differential destroy themselves, that's ok because I have plenty of spares for these in my garage. Another reason that some people like to modify their vehicles is an outlet during these difficult Covid lockdowns. Some people enjoy playing around with old cars and helps distract them from all the bullshit going on in this world today.
Exactly. That’s the point Jebbery’s Jibberish was trying to make in his video earlier today that sparked this late night off the cuff reply from John.
John Cadogan, very well said! Most dual cab 4WD in Oz are very capable off road. Modifying a new vehicle is not necessarily the best solution. Purchased Hilux N80 SR5. It will go to places people would not take a 60k vehicle. The only modifications I have is hybrid all terrain tyres and black ice air freshener. Once you start modifications, it is endless. 2 inch lift? Let's get a diff drop, to take the strain out of the CV's. Change durable OEM shockers and leaf springs to some after market parts of questionable quality. Fit bigger tyres, oh need different upper control arms to accommodate. What happened to my fuel economy? Let's get a tune and run some additional fuel and boost! I know a few engine reconditioners rubbing their hands. The list is endless...
Folks, save yourselves some money and spend it on travelling. I am on the way to Dingo Piss Creek....
I don't mind the unscripted vids at all John, they're great. I also like the targeted scripted ones - swings and roundabouts. Either way we are exposed to your experience and auto-wisdom so what's not to love?! I don't go much on the heavy dedicated 4WD ones (blue singlet/towing the aloooominum shitwhaaa) but there ya go, horses for courses. Thank you.
About stock vehicle capability, I've done the whole Fraser island experience in a Pajero with 2 inch springs and new Bridgestone street tyres (20PSI) in 99% 4H.
I bought a Triton from John’s crowd, delivery about 9 months ago. The TOTAL extra’s have been: seat and steering covers, Mitzi tow bar, floor mats, air compressor, Tire deflator, max trax, folding shovel , jumper leads, 1 strap, two shackles and a few tools (including cable ties and insulation tape). latest edition is two 5 watt radios for the second person to guide you through any tricky stuff. I go out (live in Perth) every second weekend and have had a great time discovering the massive and beautiful West Australian coast line. I go lots of places and just try a little more each time. The standard tires are pretty good and the deflation and inflation delays just give you time to reflect and plan things. highway performance is great when there are no modification. I haven’t had any formal training but that might be next.
when it comes to coastlines in Australia, I've got to agree that "west is best" (coming from a Victorian who has been around most of Australia)
An additional fuel filter is handy for water separation. I've had experience of damage caused very quickly after the warning light comes on. A pre filter with a warning light will give you some leeway to get the car to a mechanic..
True - if you're likely to experience this problem then that could be worthwhile.
11:20 we all understand the look of satisfaction on John's face! Well played sir
Definitely not a Jain.
I am not against modifications, but based on my experience I have found that is always a gamble. I have seen modifications that are legitimately well done and improved the vehicle. However, I have seen modifications that have absolutely ruin the vehicle. My opinion is is stick to stock and just get the vehicle that you want in first place and not modify it.
Really, you should be buying the vehicle you need, not the vehicle you want. There is a very clear distinction.
Great topic John. Been watching your videos for a while. Time to chime in I think. High tensile bolts episodes were on point. I’m a vehicle bodybuilder by trade. They just don’t teach the basics anymore.
Bought the last of the Pajeros and have to fit a spare Tyre lift kit just so I can open the back door with the camper attached. You would think that after all these years this problem would have been sorted. But at $60,000 drive away I’m still feeling it haha. Keep up the good work cheers.
Truth is correct depending on the speaker, Facts are correct even when nobody is speaking. Thanks John
Liking the unscripted videos John, never been a fan of the modified vehicles, always been a believer in buying a car, Ute, truck, tractor that actually suits my needs and wants and to best honest that mentally has served me very well, I own VWs and have done for 20 years now and really haven't had issues with them, I generally go for the top spec model and service them at half the recommend service intervals. With my tractors it's the same mentally buy the top spec model with the highest HP for the model series and 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 years later they are still all working as they should, that being said they seldom see a dealership once I take delivery of them, I use independent mechanics for the road registered stuff.
Living this format. Hendrick's, mosquitos and all. I 100% agree with you on the upgrades. Also agree on how capable these vehicles are when driven carefully and correctly off-road.
For mine, I dreamt of all the things I'd do to my FJ once I had it but I also decided to go one by one as I needed it for real. The only vehicle mods I've needed so far after 2+ years and lots of off-road work, are all terrain tyres and an off-roading front bumper replacement bar with a light bar attached.
You've completely talked me out of getting a lift and tires for a car I don't even own yet. Also I bought On Bullshit", which is a great title. Thank you!
Good honest review John ! I’m on your side all the way mate
Just a note 24/7 Graham drives a stock D Max in the same places the rest go, AT Tyers of course. This is what John is saying, Keep it simple. Great video John Cheers
Old two tyre trick works a treat, I've had my Nitto muddies for 4 years and an all terrain set for daily or 4wd in decentt weather
I remember reading that the first automobile crossing of the Simpson Desert was completed in a stock Nissan G60 with Mum, Dad and two kids. All had a great time and lived...that back in was 1962...I think a stock HiRangatron will be ok too.
There is an old video somewhere of a group of guys engineering a 6 wheel drive Vehicle, testing in the African bush traversing some hideous roads. In the video the presenter is showcasing the incredible capabilities of this vehicle, its huge beyond anything ever seen before, this 6 wheel drive all terrain master piece traveling down this impossible road, the presenter was going nuts on how well this vehicle was going! A 1955 Land Rover stock overtook them in the background.
Something I've learnt is that when you're new to 4wdriving, modifications give you confidence in a vehicle where as an experienced 4wdriver has the confidence and doesn't need so many mods. The experienced 4wdriver knows what the vehicle is capable of. An inexperienced 4wdriver truly believes they need those mods.
Yep indeed I have a mate who is new to the scene and he is all about the mods......$$$$$
I think it’s a case of many people have all the gear and no idea. It’s all about the right mods at the right time, bar work, winch, suspension, tyres are to me the must-haves.
I've found starting with less mods is generally better. If your smart and willing to learn as you go in my opinion it's safer to be limited by the vehicle rather than your skill. If your new ranger with nothing but lift and tyres won't get up something that better than winding up in the middle of a track that your skill level has no business being there lol. That being said a skilled driver will take that ranger up most things anyway
@@bloorie87 Winches for me are an insurance measure, the bar, facilitates it and protects from roos and livestock in the country. I drive a 200 series cruiser, and if you bog a vehicle that heavy (I haven't yet) you'd be kicking yourself if you could have winched out.
i have an original, first Gen Suzuki 4 stroke , i giggle and laugh when i drive past some wanker with a BUILT 4x4 with all the toys.. $80,000 rig..
Many times at Fraser island.. the huge rig, with camper on tow.. buried in the sand.. on a track..
I select low range 2 gear, and drive around them.. then grab the Old Turfer Winch.. and help to winch them out.. my Suzi is over 40 years old, has been maintained, it is basic..
and i have lost how many times i have driven on a advanced track, straight past a Brand New Range Rover.. stuck..
62 series stock only mod 33x12.5x15 kumhos MT. Been round Australia and through Simmo desert twice. Paid $2500 spent $1500 in servicing and making it trip ready. Back in the day I used to build disposable motors Holdens and Datsuns, Build one one week blow it up the next great times.
For me, buying the vehicle that meets your needs right out of the box is the best thing you can do. I have a small car with a factory fitted wider wheels/rubber and a sportier suspension tune. That's all I wanted and I didn't need more power, etc etc. Turns out if I had bought an unmodified car and then wanted the above, the get to that level would've cost more than going to the same spec level ex-factory. Made sense!
I have a bog stock Toyota Prado that I have had for 23 years. It has been everywhere that most 4x4 owners have on their bucket lists numerous times. I have not worried about anything other than a 2 inch ARB OME suspension package. I would not hesitate to put this on any new 4x4 as it has been very useful on numerous occasions where I have been going too fast through things and it has just soaked up the shocks where previously I would have made use of the bash plates. I know that they are bash plates and they are called that because you can bash them but I have found that once you have punched them up to touch both the front and rear fuel tanks it is quite inconvenient to take them off and bash them back to shape. Let alone Toyotas misguided decision to make some of them plastic that I have duly ripped off. I have pulled out numerous other cars with ease and that is with just the use of correct tyre pressures. Since the suspension I have no more need for the bash plates as I have stopped hitting things. Best money ever spent. In saying that there is no such animal as ABS ESC or anything like that in the car to stuff up.
Great video with even greater information. Just downloaded the “on bullshit” book and started reading. Thanks for all the work you are devoting to giving us these great videos.
The Gibb River road to Derby resonates for ne because I've driven it in an unmodified Subaru Forester,on road tyres no worries.
great information. so many people think they need all that stuff. I purposely bought my dual cab and didn't change it for a year, I then thought what I need for my application, did a few tweaks and it ticks all the boxes for me
There’s a lot of great 4WD mods and there’s a lot of bad 4WD mods.
I believe there’s some really nice ways of improving your 4WD ie. Suspension upgrades to high end 2.5” Fox coil over set up, mods like this will 100% improve the on and off-road drive.
Drive a Ranger Raptor VS a standard Ranger you’ll feel the difference.
Spot on in regards to Warranty .. leave it alone or suffer the consequences of your decision
In the U.S. the general wisdom is you don't mess with modification on a car still under warranty (if you want to make use of the warranty).
It's much the same in Australia. Some people run the gauntlet but most won't. Although with many more newbies to the enthusiast car scene who believe the bullshit it seems more common
My brother bought a three pronged suppository suv, took it to dingo piss creek, hit a pot hole bent alloy rim, run flat tyre went flat........spare tyre one of those things off a wheel barrow.........great modification south of the black stump.
So very glad to have had this one pop up in my feed John.
It is a slippery slope, and I was (pray for me that the past tense actually applies here) on it. As for unscripted vs. scripted, keep them coming either way mate. The information, coupled with the perspective of experience is always going to be needed by today's consumer.
Yup…the only mod I’ve done to my Fortuner was a set of slightly taller KO2s to replace those crappy Dunlop AT25s and proper recovery gear. 90% of the trails you’d want to go to here in Pakistan are dirt and rock…in the mountains or the forests up north. If you pick the right line, you don’t need a lift..slow and steady with the right pressures gets you where you need to go.
What you don’t seem to realise this is some people can afford to modify their vehicle as much as they want without it hurting, and it gives them a great amount of pleasure. Some of it might not be needed, like the supercharger on my FJ cruiser, but it puts a smile on my face so it’s well worth the money.
Looking forward to Fatcave Fabrication and dude/dudette shed skills!
Amazing to hear truth for a change.
I find that modifying your vehicle, a bike in my particular case, is sometimes a must. Provided you know exactly how it is going to be used and possible issues. Sometimes manufacturers make severe mistakes. My FJR was limited to 4kg rear rack load (after top box installation), so I had to modify the subframe and reinforce it. Sliders, heating grips, nav equipment, additional cargo storage... , just do what you need and avoid any changes for the sake of change alone. Know what you need, adjust your vehicle for that, avoid the rest.
I did a trip to frazer Island this year i bt50 with a heap done to it. All I need was the second battery and the awning was nice. The 35 front locker and lift did nothing for that trip, I do use thes for had tracks but I think a lot of people go to far for these trips
Yeah I did Fraser island in a bog standard Jeep Wrangler with street tyres on it and drove around jacked up Discoverys with enormous tyres bogged up to the axles wondering why they were struggling.
Save fifteen grand and let your tyres down, dudes.
I purchase a new vehicle every 2 years (I am a TPI) and the only modification, (other from what I can squeeze out of the dealership for free) I ever make is to add a daschcam. As you recommend buy the vehicle you need not the poverty pack and DIY the rest.
Thanks for the enlightenment.
Regards Tony
PS make sure that your daschcam has bump/impact record feature for those little bumps in the car park. They work a treat when you can send the recording to your insurance company.
Great video. Some people modify their cars due to being influenced buy what they see and not what they need, it then can turn into an addictive hobby. I can appreciate the time and effort they put it their vehicles though.
Loving these last few videos mate keep them up.. I have a ZD30 GU that i have owned for 10 yrs its done everything I have ever needed it to do but I have a catch can on that as its not a common rail.
After a current painful drama of some new steps made by a local fabricator I am kicking myself that I have wasted my money.
I am at the point of looking to upgrade to a Y62 and dont plan to mess with that once I buy it.
"clap ... kill something every day..." hilarious, almost pissed myself laughing
John, A most informative video, thank you. And I just popped over to Amazon for a certain book you casually mentioned - about 5 times!
Usually the lifts are to achieve a larger tyre diameter into the wheel arch and increase the diff pumpkin clearance in most cases or pure aesthetics in others , go figure . 4x4 mods are HUGE business along with all the add on extras , now more than ever with Covid making Australians travelling their own country . Thanks John 😎🍻
Pre-filter primarily to seperate water contamination & ideally alert operator. Water will destroy CRD high pressure pump & injectors with a relatively small amount. Unfortunately water in diesel fuel is just too common & consequences are butt clenching costs. Really happy with my 'Water watch' system.
Good to see your being more straight forward I enjoyed your view and I agree
Come on mate, low profile mud tyres on 18 inch rims are essential for safely crossing the Bunnings car park
Heard you quote Frankfurt, then you held up the book. Love you more and more every video. Frankfurt is amazing. Good summary by the way. I give the essay to my students every year and we talk our way through it. 👍
It is an awesome work. Thanks for watching.
Like number 665.
The across the road neighbour of The Beast. Yes!
I don't mind the unscripted versions. The information content appears to be still very high. I always learn something.
Ive just ordered the On Bullshit book. Looking forward to it arriving...
6.42 of your video explains why I keep getting your content recommended to me, I love this shit
I once tinted my own windows. I also once scrunched up a heap of film and threw it in the bin.
Spotlights, bullbar, roof racks, 2 inch lift, tow bar. Enough to see skip, smash him if you can't avoid him, get over rocks at the farm, tow and carry long shit. All I need as a tradie.
In 2016 I sold my Jeep GC 3.0 diesel to my daughters friend father, it only had 13k on the clock. About 6 months later I heard he had it "tuned for performance" but the engine blew a hole in the number 6 piston and failed head gaskets. Off to the dealership he went with warranty in hand, the dealer scanned the ECU and said NUP, you're on your own mate. 25K later he had a replacement engine fitted that had over 70k on the clock.
Some engines just shouldn't be tuned. Most are pushed as hard as they should be from the factory. There are a few instances where tuning is possible, like some 4JJ1's and 1VD's are strong enough for a bit more boost. My cousin has a 4JJ1 with 200k kms with an 800Nm 40psi tune. But these engines underperform and are very understressed from the factory.
By the way…I would draw a clear distinction between Ronny Dahl and 4WD 24/7…only one of those UA-cam channels actively markets specific products to people, whereas the other is very honest about what you don’t or might need. Ronny put out a video clearly showing how capable the Hilux was without any mods at all.
Now, lets talk about Mr 4X4 - Pat Callinan :-) 5 minutes of actual content, 20 minutes of product placement.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 ronny is not honest. When was the last time he mentioned he paid for something with his own money like he did religiously in the beginning of his career. That hilux he has is a sponsored walking advert. He is no different to 4wd 24/7 😂.
4wd 24 7 also did videos testing stock standard 4wds in head to head comparisons. Take your blinkers off mate, your being conned lol.
Another great episode John. I’m definitely going to get that book. Yeeeeesssssssss!
Hi John. Love your work. Could you do an episode on engine oil temperature. Particularly how hot is too hot. Do some oils cope with heat better than others. Took my cammed VE SSV on a track day. Oil temp reached 148 degrees C. Oil was Penrite Racing 5w40 which I understand can withstand temps up to 200 degrees C. Would love an engineer’s opinion on whether engine mods create higher temps and if certain oils can protect the engine better at higher temps and if not, when should an engine oil cooler be considered. Cheers. Bernie
re catch can, we have a 2019 Pajero Sport and a 2019 CX5, we fitted a catch can to the Pajero Sport and drain about 50ml of oil from it every 5000K with a daily drive of 40km @ 100kph along the M7. We didn't fit a catch can to the CX5 as it has an inbuilt oil separator as part of the PCV system. It's interesting that Mazda feels it necessary to remove the oil before sending the crankcase fumes to the inlet manifold.
All good points and advice here John, i do like to watch the odd 4x4 YT vids of Cape trips etc, and while many of these travellers are often well (Over) prepared for whatever comes at them, I take particular attention to how well (or not) the unmodified vehicles perform & are doing, which can often reflect greater driving skills &/or complete stupidity I guess, but makes for a entertaining watch. I have had a number of 4x4 utes, tojo’s, wagons, etc (Toyota’s of course) over the years and have never really needed to make anything more than a few personal mods, I dont raise suspension, although my 200 series had it done when I got it, it doesn’t help for most road use and I never did any real 4x4ing with it anyhow, i have towed large trailers full of shit thru the Maytown tracks with a standard 4x4 Hilux without any issues, the Hilux & trailer were both hired of course, because hired gear can do so much more than ur own gear I have found as a rule, haha.
Mods can be nice, but yeah, how really necessary are they, what I think can really help though in just about any situation is: a bit of common sense. Great vid. Cheers
Cant wait to get the new Ford Ranger V6 and remap that baby.
Looking forward to the fab shop videos.
Rob and the boys from Ultimate Diesel Tuning will be choking on their VBs.