Enjoying your videos. I remember we had a Panasonic TX28W 28 " CRT brought in 1992 and failed in 1995 with this exact fault no colour on main picture but all the menus would show in colour. As it was already out of guarantee we had our local TV repair man come and collect it ( this set was a big heavy beast). After he was unable to locate the fault it landed up having to go back to Panasonic and repaired there. They agreed that although the set was out of guarantee at only 3 years old it should not have developed a serious failure and only had to pay a fraction of the repair cost. After all this was an expensive set when purchased in 1992. I hung on to the set even after we retired it as our main TV in 2000 and used it in our conservatory for years. It developed another fault in early 2004 where the picture would be fine for the first 10 mins after switch on but as it warmed up the picture would go out of focus. I made a decision at that point do I scrap it ( most people would have) or do I try and get it looked at. I took it to another local repair shop at this point they were still a few around. After a couple of days he called me to say the line output transformer had failed and would need replacing and looking at £100.00. I must have been mad but after chatting with the repair guy and him saying it was a lovely set still i decided for the repair to go ahead. I still have the set today but gets very little use obviously. When I retired it from being our main TV in 2000 we went for our first CRT wide-screen which developed a fault in the first 12 months and got our money back on that. We then decided to go for a Toshiba 32ZP18P over a £1000.00 would have been one of the last high quality CRTs made as only a few years later the Plasma/LCDS started to flood the market. I still have the Toshiba as well works perfectly and unlike the Panasonic has never suffered any faults or failures. Hanging onto it for now may be worth a fortune in years to come as there things are getting rare and there is still a demand for high quality sets like this.
It probably does. I have a few sets from the 80's and 90s that still work perfectly. I have 2 of the last CRT sets made. One if used as a security camera monitor. The screen is really badly burned, like really bad, but the set still produces a good picture. It's been running pretty much non stop since I bought it at Walmart for 40.00 when they were clearing out the last of the analog sets in 2006.
you are using the oscilloscope very effectively that is helping to detect the the fault very quickly and also able to see the actual wave forms that gives tremendous amount idea of the working condition and repair the equipment with less cost .it is really amazing .
I love the old CRT TV's, I still have a 25' Zenith that I think was built in the early 2000's still going strong, going to pair it with an old orig Xbox for some retro gaming, those old consoles look better on the older tube tv's. Great video :)
Great to see another CRT repair video from you, they're always very interesting to watch. Congrats on the 1,000 videos too. Looking forward to the next 1,000!
Wow, 1000 videos - that's incredible lol! Congrats! Time flies, seems like two minutes since you were on like video 10 lol. Another great job on this repair!
Congratulations for the 1K vídeo!!!!! Hi from Mexico!! The best channel for fixing electronic devices!! I've learned a Lot here! Keep doing these videos!
I'll probably work on it over xmas. Researching a schematic now. Vert old unit, from the late 1920's. All original tubes. Will be a good one to restore. Love the old vintage stuff, this is history worth restoring.
Well done ! My process would be confirm VCC for color if separate, check xtal pin, then color level line from micro. Keep the TV's coming ! brings me back to the good ole days at the bench. 73 Tom LFOD !
I’m glad the scope seems to be working for you. I see a future video on repairing broken scope trigger control. Would also be interesting to see if someone has modified the scope bandwidth.
David Raezer There are 3 versions of that scope. No letter an A and B version. Me thinks that someone swapped a board from a 300 kHz scope. That's ok because I will never need to look at a thing that high in freq. I did fine with a 40 mhz for years.
1000 Videos, fantastic :-D :-D That's smashing, i was hoping that the chip was ok :-D. I'm not supprised that the analog scope was so good, that was a smashing gift. Your analysis of the faulty capacitor is bang on, I did find ceramic caps in a c.b that showed resistance!, it had sat in a damp place and most of the chassis to pcb caps were dead. I sat here just trying to remember the ntsc color crystal frequency, i made a digital cap checker around one, then i remembered 3.5795 Mhz roughly, memory plays games lol.
3.579545 to be exact. PAL used 4.43 if memory serves me correct. This analog scope is a real nice one, and nicer now that I have fixed the control. I will hang onto the DSO because there are some things it will work with, but the Tek will be my main scope.
Yes you make sense, i have an ancient cossor scope and a portable battery/mains telequipment one. The telequipment one has had more bad joints than i can remember, but i wont let it die, im cruel lol :)
This one does not have video triger. I have been through all the menus, and it doesn't have it. Some may, but not the cheap POS I have. It is great for some things but looking at video or RF from head amplifier is not one of them.
Fair enough then, although my rigol is only the cheaper DS1052E. btw are they still laying pipes outside your house? I would have thought you guys would have 6ft of snow on the ground by now lol.
Yeah that UNI-T is the worst scope to compare to an analog scope. You need at least the Rigol 1000Z series with lots of waveform captures per second. A Keysight 2000 or so would do even better.
the 1054z is all around better than that uni-t It shows video waveform near perfectly. You only need the trigger if you want to see individual frames of video. Though i really wish i could find an affordable analog scope around here, this rigol has been working out great.
Nice to see you got a Tek 2465. Just checked the price of those knobs because I was curious for my Tek 2225 scope as well since I'm missing one and Jesus they want an arm and a leg even for used ones. It doesn't bother me that much enough to spend $25 for one
I think a dab of JB weld and a donor knob will have to do. The only one I am needing is trig level, so as long as I can make it long enough to adjust I will be happy.
Dacke One of the knobs dromedary my old iwatsu fits and the trig level can be adjusted with finger tip no problem so it is l working at least what I have tested so far.
Nice. I wish I had some spare knobs. Holdoff knob is missing on mine but it's not like I need to adjust that one much. There's actually a website that sells knobs for HP and Tek scopes and Spec analyzers but now I just can't remember it for the life of me I always have to wonder what the hell people do to these poor analog scopes to snap/crack off the front panel knobs so much, I try to take really good care of my stuff and never have an issue...
I hear you. I was able to salvage one of my old Iwatsu, so all is good. Fit perfectly, as it is secured with a set screw. You will see it in future videos. It is red, but who cares right. As long as it works. I have a few projects to work on. Another vintage AM radio in need of a rebuild, but first I have another one of those ANdroid boxes that I need to set up, and test for a client.
You said use isolation transformer, agree! You said without you could make the line of solder points hot by reversing 2 prong plug. In that case was the ac cap put in backwards? Another guy has a tool to check caps before putting them in to check AC caps? Something to think about? I don't think it matters, DC yes, but since you said if plug is reversed& not isolated it makes a difference which I agree,what about AC caps?
If it was a concert playing, then that would be a recording playing off of a Pi in his media room, check out his modulator setup vid for info. Yes i know im late
If you have your probe on 1X on the DSO it could be loading, contributing to the bad reading on the DSO. I am learning and just guessing . Well you just mentioned it was..lol
It's unlikely for a ceramic capacitor to fail with a change in ESR, and given the very low capacity, it would be quite difficult to measure the ESR anyway. More likely it became electrically leaky, or the capacitance changed drastically, or it may have become electrically noisy/partially open circuit from physical damage.
Fantastic work, so impressed by your knowledge mate,where did you train, what courses did you take, where can i get this knowledge, why are'nt you very very rich, the experience and knowlege should be drawing you $150 and hour mate. ps 2 dislikes at the moment, what the F$#@#K??
I worked for the Sony corp backin the early 80's and took some factory courses. Then I worked for 20 years in a very busy service center. I left that business in 2003 and now work for a telecom. I still work on electronics but now just for fun, and to make a few bucks from youtube.
Can you help give my Panasonic a rough diagnosis please? Anything helps, thanks!!! Problems: 1. The picture randomly brightens and dims for about 5 seconds, then stops for a few minutes. 2. Pressing the volume and channel buttons shakes the picture. 3. Jolting the TV shakes the picture. 4. The top of the picture develops a bright rectangular bar with tiny black lines within it. This rectangular bar develops randomly. 5. While #4 happens, thin, horizontal, and black lines flash on the screen. 6. Sometimes while the picture dims and brightens violently, objects within the picture develop a streaking shadow going across the screen (which is what your Panasonic GAOO did until you replaced a capacitor).
I found bad solder joints around the jungle ic which on my portable is at the very front of the board.. I think operating the push buttons may have been the long term cause. Observed the board flex very slightly when a front panel control was pressed..
As fulwell says it seems like EHT wobble - look at base of line output transformer (flyback US). This is very common on all TVs as the heavy transformer stresses the circuit board. Go over any dubious connections with the iron, look over whole circuit while you are there.
I regret giving one of these away . working with remote . I had now space for it . Now I REGRET IT because my PlayStation dose not look good on these new tablet TVs . These tube TVs are just better anyway .👍
I have an old PS2 and a PS3 and an xbox360 still in the box never opened never plugged in.. The ps3 I have is a vintage unit that will play the PS1, 2 and 3 games. One of the very sought after units.
Funny how they only made so little of them like that . I refused the PS 3 as it would not run TT Isle Of Man on PS 2 disc ! OK , I have had a check up from the neck up after kicking that TV out , it appears that there is a bit of bone in there .
Congrgatulations, you have experienced the sound of the flyback transformer. Now, imagine this sound, in your head 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It never goes away, and it is there for the rest of your life. This is what someone suffering from tinnitus suffers. Get exposed to loud sounds too much and you too can live this nightmare.
Enjoying your videos. I remember we had a Panasonic TX28W 28 " CRT brought in 1992 and failed in 1995 with this exact fault no colour on main picture but all the menus would show in colour. As it was already out of guarantee we had our local TV repair man come and collect it ( this set was a big heavy beast). After he was unable to locate the fault it landed up having to go back to Panasonic and repaired there. They agreed that although the set was out of guarantee at only 3 years old it should not have developed a serious failure and only had to pay a fraction of the repair cost. After all this was an expensive set when purchased in 1992. I hung on to the set even after we retired it as our main TV in 2000 and used it in our conservatory for years. It developed another fault in early 2004 where the picture would be fine for the first 10 mins after switch on but as it warmed up the picture would go out of focus. I made a decision at that point do I scrap it ( most people would have) or do I try and get it looked at. I took it to another local repair shop at this point they were still a few around. After a couple of days he called me to say the line output transformer had failed and would need replacing and looking at £100.00. I must have been mad but after chatting with the repair guy and him saying it was a lovely set still i decided for the repair to go ahead. I still have the set today but gets very little use obviously. When I retired it from being our main TV in 2000 we went for our first CRT wide-screen which developed a fault in the first 12 months and got our money back on that. We then decided to go for a Toshiba 32ZP18P over a £1000.00 would have been one of the last high quality CRTs made as only a few years later the Plasma/LCDS started to flood the market. I still have the Toshiba as well works perfectly and unlike the Panasonic has never suffered any faults or failures. Hanging onto it for now may be worth a fortune in years to come as there things are getting rare and there is still a demand for high quality sets like this.
My family has a long history with Panasonic. A CRT set we bought in the mid 90s still works from what I last heard.
It probably does. I have a few sets from the 80's and 90s that still work perfectly. I have 2 of the last CRT sets made. One if used as a security camera monitor. The screen is really badly burned, like really bad, but the set still produces a good picture. It's been running pretty much non stop since I bought it at Walmart for 40.00 when they were clearing out the last of the analog sets in 2006.
you are using the oscilloscope very effectively that is helping to detect the the fault very quickly and also able to see the actual wave forms that gives tremendous amount idea of the working condition and repair the equipment with less cost .it is really amazing .
I love the old CRT TV's, I still have a 25' Zenith that I think was built in the early 2000's still going strong, going to pair it with an old orig Xbox for some retro gaming, those old consoles look better on the older tube tv's. Great video :)
Great to see another CRT repair video from you, they're always very interesting to watch. Congrats on the 1,000 videos too. Looking forward to the next 1,000!
Fantastic 1000 videos! Really thorough fault finding for the CRT TV missing colour problem. Thank you
I am probably closer to 2000 by now.
That's an excellent fix where such a small tiny cap was creating such a big issue. Sure one may go for chip replacement if not have yours level skill!
Great video! Thank you for putting these up! Very helpful!
Wow, 1000 videos - that's incredible lol! Congrats! Time flies, seems like two minutes since you were on like video 10 lol. Another great job on this repair!
Wow, already at video 1000?!?! Man you're just cranking them out. I enjoy your videos as always, here's to a 1000 more!
I remember number 500 lke it was just last year.
Wait a minute, it probably was last year!
Congratulations for the 1K vídeo!!!!! Hi from Mexico!! The best channel for fixing electronic devices!! I've learned a Lot here! Keep doing these videos!
1000 vids is super!
Congrats from Sweden
🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉Congratulations on 1000 videos 12voltvids is awesome 🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉
Congratulations Dave, and thank you for 1000 excellent videos - wishing you every success for the next 1000!
Spoiler alert. Got in a Rogers Majestic vintage radio to work on.
Could be an interesting
Looking forward to it already!
I'll probably work on it over xmas. Researching a schematic now. Vert old unit, from the late 1920's. All original tubes. Will be a good one to restore. Love the old vintage stuff, this is history worth restoring.
Enjoyed the video, liked the comparison of the signals on both scopes. Thanks
1000 vids, quite an accomplishment, Congrats
Well done ! My process would be confirm VCC for color if separate, check xtal pin,
then color level line from micro.
Keep the TV's coming ! brings me back to the good ole days at the bench.
73
Tom
LFOD !
I’m glad the scope seems to be working for you. I see a future video on repairing broken scope trigger control. Would also be interesting to see if someone has modified the scope bandwidth.
Yes I will have to try and fix that control. Might be able to glue a new shaft on it.
David Raezer
There are 3 versions of that scope. No letter an A and B version. Me thinks that someone swapped a board from a 300 kHz scope. That's ok because I will never need to look at a thing that high in freq. I did fine with a 40 mhz for years.
Nice work! I thought you had a bad Jungle IC at first. Back in the day they caused a variety of problems.
1000 Videos, fantastic :-D :-D
That's smashing, i was hoping that the chip was ok :-D.
I'm not supprised that the analog scope was so good, that was a smashing gift.
Your analysis of the faulty capacitor is bang on, I did find ceramic caps in a c.b that showed resistance!, it had sat in a damp place and most of the chassis to pcb caps were dead.
I sat here just trying to remember the ntsc color crystal frequency, i made a digital cap checker around one, then i remembered 3.5795 Mhz roughly, memory plays games lol.
3.579545 to be exact.
PAL used 4.43 if memory serves me correct.
This analog scope is a real nice one, and nicer now that I have fixed the control. I will hang onto the DSO because there are some things it will work with, but the Tek will be my main scope.
Yes you make sense, i have an ancient cossor scope and a portable battery/mains telequipment one.
The telequipment one has had more bad joints than i can remember, but i wont let it die, im cruel lol :)
Nice work love the video
Tektronics is my go to Oscilloscope. Suggestion to use the other channel to show the crystal and pin 39 of the IC.
Congratulations 👍
That's a ton of video/ Great job!
Great fix 👍
Not sure about that digital scope but my rigol has a video trigger function which allows it to capture these sorts of waveforms a bit better.
This one does not have video triger. I have been through all the menus, and it doesn't have it. Some may, but not the cheap POS I have. It is great for some things but looking at video or RF from head amplifier is not one of them.
Fair enough then, although my rigol is only the cheaper DS1052E. btw are they still laying pipes outside your house? I would have thought you guys would have 6ft of snow on the ground by now lol.
Yeah that UNI-T is the worst scope to compare to an analog scope. You need at least the Rigol 1000Z series with lots of waveform captures per second. A Keysight 2000 or so would do even better.
the 1054z is all around better than that uni-t It shows video waveform near perfectly. You only need the trigger if you want to see individual frames of video. Though i really wish i could find an affordable analog scope around here, this rigol has been working out great.
hello from Ecuador!!!
So that multi-leg chip is a jungle chip, the color gun drive amps are actually a Class A amps one for each color.
Buenas the way, using one of the best analog Scopes ever made .... The wonderful tektronix 2465B!!!
Nice to see you got a Tek 2465. Just checked the price of those knobs because I was curious for my Tek 2225 scope as well since I'm missing one and Jesus they want an arm and a leg even for used ones. It doesn't bother me that much enough to spend $25 for one
I think a dab of JB weld and a donor knob will have to do.
The only one I am needing is trig level, so as long as I can make it long enough to adjust I will be happy.
Dacke
One of the knobs dromedary my old iwatsu fits and the trig level can be adjusted with finger tip no problem so it is l working at least what I have tested so far.
Nice. I wish I had some spare knobs. Holdoff knob is missing on mine but it's not like I need to adjust that one much. There's actually a website that sells knobs for HP and Tek scopes and Spec analyzers but now I just can't remember it for the life of me
I always have to wonder what the hell people do to these poor analog scopes to snap/crack off the front panel knobs so much, I try to take really good care of my stuff and never have an issue...
I hear you. I was able to salvage one of my old Iwatsu, so all is good. Fit perfectly, as it is secured with a set screw.
You will see it in future videos. It is red, but who cares right. As long as it works. I have a few projects to work on. Another vintage AM radio in need of a rebuild, but first I have another one of those ANdroid boxes that I need to set up, and test for a client.
Nice one!
You said use isolation transformer, agree! You said without you could make the line of solder points hot by reversing 2 prong plug. In that case was the ac cap put in backwards? Another guy has a tool to check caps before putting them in to check AC caps? Something to think about? I don't think it matters, DC yes, but since you said if plug is reversed& not isolated it makes a difference which I agree,what about AC caps?
Nice video! :-)
Nice fix
Hello from Philippines
Do you have an in-house analog cable system?
0:46 ???? Why do you have a German channel (3sat) in your cable system? :D (and how is it converted to 29.97, if you know)?
If it was a concert playing, then that would be a recording playing off of a Pi in his media room, check out his modulator setup vid for info. Yes i know im late
Have a low pass filter enabled on DSO?
pksato
Lpf was off on both scopes.
If you have your probe on 1X on the DSO it could be loading, contributing to the bad reading on the DSO. I am learning and just guessing . Well you just mentioned it was..lol
Normally it is on x10. I had it on x1 to measure something specifically, and forgot to switch it back. That is what loaded the xtal, down.
What ceramic capacitor was it?
What is the song at the beginning of Video?
Our Visio 3d 55" Smart Tv lost its color on all inputs. OSD is still in color. Can it be repaired?
Digital scopes dont have the resolution or speed of a crt
Would have been good to have tested the ESR on the Cap before installing the new one, to see how far out of spec it was.
It's unlikely for a ceramic capacitor to fail with a change in ESR, and given the very low capacity, it would be quite difficult to measure the ESR anyway. More likely it became electrically leaky, or the capacitance changed drastically, or it may have become electrically noisy/partially open circuit from physical damage.
Those chips did the job but they were cheap and cheerful same as the 4066 chips in technics tape decks.
Untill it isn't a chip that fails.
No i know, i was very surprised
1000 wow!
Fantastic work, so impressed by your knowledge mate,where did you train, what courses did you take, where can i get this knowledge, why are'nt you very very rich, the experience and knowlege should be drawing you $150 and hour mate.
ps 2 dislikes at the moment, what the F$#@#K??
I worked for the Sony corp backin the early 80's and took some factory courses. Then I worked for 20 years in a very busy service center.
I left that business in 2003 and now work for a telecom. I still work on electronics but now just for fun, and to make a few bucks from youtube.
Didn't you have another 14 inch Panasonic with the exact same problem sometime back ago?
I had "This" one, but it was a video problem.
ua-cam.com/video/_H_oLL1xf4U/v-deo.html
I was thinking about this one, but it's not a Panasonic after all: ua-cam.com/video/_8f7VU558d0/v-deo.html
Ah yes the Toshiba set. That one the "wet finger" got it going.
On the color input:
ASO: Fine with this
DSO: *freaks out*
ASO's like 😎 and the DSO's like 😨
A capacitor was one place i suspected there could be a problem
Can you help give my Panasonic a rough diagnosis please? Anything helps, thanks!!!
Problems:
1. The picture randomly brightens and dims for about 5 seconds, then stops for a few minutes.
2. Pressing the volume and channel buttons shakes the picture.
3. Jolting the TV shakes the picture.
4. The top of the picture develops a bright rectangular bar with tiny black lines within it. This rectangular bar develops randomly.
5. While #4 happens, thin, horizontal, and black lines flash on the screen.
6. Sometimes while the picture dims and brightens violently, objects within the picture develop a streaking shadow going across the screen (which is what your Panasonic GAOO did until you replaced a capacitor).
If you smack the TV and the picture changes it sure sounds like a bad connectioin somewhere.
I found bad solder joints around the jungle ic which on my portable is at the very front of the board.. I think operating the push buttons may have been the long term cause. Observed the board flex very slightly when a front panel control was pressed..
12voltvids Do you think a dying capacitor could be the cause of 1, 4, 5, 6?
Check for dry joints on the flyback transformer - they were as guilty as sin for that. Also look at the joints in the IF strip.
As fulwell says it seems like EHT wobble - look at base of line output transformer (flyback US). This is very common on all TVs as the heavy transformer stresses the circuit board. Go over any dubious connections with the iron, look over whole circuit while you are there.
I regret giving one of these away . working with remote .
I had now space for it .
Now I REGRET IT because my PlayStation dose not look good on these new tablet TVs .
These tube TVs are just better anyway .👍
Definitely better for vintage video games. I'll hook my pacman board to this one.
Keeping the PlayStation's , they are in demand .
Games obviously not completed yet
I have an old PS2 and a PS3 and an xbox360 still in the box never opened never plugged in.. The ps3 I have is a vintage unit that will play the PS1, 2 and 3 games. One of the very sought after units.
Funny how they only made so little of them like that .
I refused the PS 3 as it would not run TT Isle Of Man on PS 2 disc !
OK , I have had a check up from the neck up after kicking that TV out , it appears that there is a bit of bone in there .
ceramic capacitors are like wolves in sheep's clothing, they can be misleading
1:00 there is a very high pich sound that hurts my ears.
Congrgatulations, you have experienced the sound of the flyback transformer. Now, imagine this sound, in your head 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It never goes away, and it is there for the rest of your life.
This is what someone suffering from tinnitus suffers. Get exposed to loud sounds too much and you too can live this nightmare.
ANALOG TV?! What?!
New is better than old somewhat
Very god analog for view digital bad