You are wonderful, Mr. OZ Cycle. I did my first chain lubrication with wax last week, and I had never seen my drivetrain so shiny and clean. I can't thank you in words. It is more than that. Thank you for your research, thank you for your love of cycling, thank you for your love of the environment and thank you for sharing all this with us, amateur cyclists. Just saying THANKS. Francisco Alonso Colom from São Paulo, Brazil.
@@chrisr.2371 Hello Mr. Chris R. Here in Brazil I found the PTFE after many research in Internet and many telephone calls. The colleague who sold me works with teflon pan linings. He had left over and sold me. About parafin, you can buy candle. The ratio, please see again the video, Mr. Oz Cycle can explain better than me. Regards from Brazil and be careful with covid 19. Stay at home. ptfe you can also find this web link: "www.aliexpress.com/item/4000574114103.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.20af2e0e8tNPpQ"
Wow. Biking videos that are easy to understand, comprehensive, not pretentious, and helpful? Thank you, thank you, thank you for explaining what you are doing and why you are doing it. Just great videos!
I’m new to cycling. I bought my first road bike this past December; a used 2014 Trek Domane 4.0. I’ve worked my way up to 40 miles in this time. This is all besides the point I want to make. I’ve watched a lot of GCN while started out, and I’ve found them rather insightful, but insightful is an understatement for your videos. I’m really impressed with your own research, and how you break down concepts. I don’t understand how you don’t have more subscribers, but you’ve won me over.
Just made a batch. Thanks for the tutorial! I did it a little different since I was due for a re-wax on my trainer bike. While it was hot, I stirred the wax to mix the PTFE. I then used a spoon to add the mixture to my squirt bottle. I used about a 1:7 - 1:8 ratio since the wax was already melted. Then filled the remaining bottle up with 91% isopropyl alcohol (I couldn’t find 99% like you had). At first I thought all I would need to do is mix it up and it would be done. What I found was when adding the alcohol it hardened the wax enough so it wouldn’t mix. What I did was heat up a pot of water and kept it around 80C while spinning the bottle with my fingers to mix contents. Worked great! ...The intent was to get the same Wax:PTFE ratio as doing a hot wax. It does separate fairly quick so you need to be aware when applying, but a quick shake mixes it up nicely. Thanks again Steve, I look forward to all your videos!
Finally made the new batch of wax and love it. Its silky smooth and no black marks when you glide your finger across it. Environmentally friendly and cheap in the long term.
Thanks for video Oz Maybe better to get water right temperature in a pan then sitting bottle in pan rather than putting bottle in kettle. If temp drops a little in 10 mins top with hotter water. Less risk of overheating
Late to this party but thanks for the time you took making this and your other video on this subject, going to convert both my road and MTB biked right away.
Greetings from Lake Tahoe, U.S.A. I did your full treatment wax and it has worked great. So nice to not having to clean the greasy oil off after every ride (mountain bike).
In USA, Methylated Spirits is known as Denatured Alcohol. Methylated spirits is ethanol (alcohol) that has been made unsuitable for drinking by adding additives such as methanol. Denatured alcohol, also known as methylated spirits, is a greener alternative for your everyday cleaning needs and other domestic jobs.
@@thecappy. Denatured alcohol (also called methylated spirits, in Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, South Africa, and the United Kingdom) is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage its recreational consumption. Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for alcohol burners and camping stoves.
0:57 - I just went through this process. Gasoline soak for two different types of chains for ~24 hours, then I went to the denatured alcohol soak/shakes. The road chain took six separate shake/soak/shake sessions with new denatured alcohol each time, and the larger MTB chain took nine sessions of the denatured-alcohol shake/soak/shake processes - both over the course of about 20 hours. They were just not leaving clean enough alcohol each time. My guess is that the higher end 'dry' (waxy) lubes I was using, vs. just an oil-based lube, adhered to the chains longer. My point for everyone is - it may not take the mere 3 sessions (which I believe is the method oz showed in the previous waxing video) with the denatured alcohol to clean a chain.
Excellent advice, and timing, Oz! I am very happy with the chains I ‘ve waxed according to your recipe, and was just thinking about having a little bottle of wax lubricant to use on the road. You were ready with the answer!
@@choyweide903 I've heard that the wax lasts 400km per full wax. But mine always gets squeaky after 80km or so. Around there and for each 80km I use the drip on wax. I end up re waxxing every 800-1000km fully instead of the reccomended 400km. No chain issues and my chain has no stretch!
Perfect, just in time for my training camp next week. I do find my PTFE sinks to the bottom of my slow cooker. So scraping it the top will be just wax. I'm going to make a fresh mini blend of wax and PTFE instead.
I think as a trail side/touring kit solution in a carry bottle the PTFE isn't crucial. It just aides longevity between the more thorough chain baths *with* the PTFE as a adhesive agent
I do love your videos, you've got me well on my way with my chain waxing. I've now got over a litre of the drip wax as I made it before I saw this video and had initially used too much wax and it kept going solid on cooling. 2 cycles of splitting the mix in two with more isopropyl alcohol and I now have many years of drip wax made. Thanks and keep up the great work!
I'm a mountain bike rider and have been frustrated with chain maintenance issues for the 10 years of my riding. Dry wax lubes have left my drivetrain totally unprotected and noisy after just 1 hour of dusty riding in bushland at Nerang. Not to mention how fast they wear out. Now you have answered my questions about the deficiencies of those lubes and given a solution the the problem. PTFE is the 'secret' weapon. I'll be getting a batch made up asap and following your chain maintinance protocols.
After many tests I discovered the big secret: Add a small part of colophony pine resin in the same mixture, and the paraffin will be slightly sticky, prolonging the durability, besides making the lubrication more powerful! I'm using 60% isopropanol, 30% paraffin and 10% pine resin. These proportions can be modified, this is just a suggestion.
Not a good idea. It's like putting grease on your chain. It'll attract dirt like an oiled chain. The purpose of the wax is that it sheds off naturally. That's why the chain stays clean
Keep your videos coming, great information and relevant step by step instructions... as a newbie I am really enjoying them, learning lots... thank you!
Thanks oz for all you do in research and knowledge. I appreciate you efforts advancing the sport in really useful and informative ways. Cheers from US mate! Thank you!🙂
I want to say you have the best videos on proper care of drivetrains I've ever seen. I've wrenched my own bikes for many years but I continue to learn from your videos. You not only show how something is done, but also explain why. Just as important, you'll show the longterm results. An example is waxing chains. A big eye-opener was the video where you approached the bikes of a group who'd stopped and you were easily able to determine who waxed and who didn't. Your videos are so well done that I'm constantly recommending your channel on numerous FB cycling pages, including Global Cycling Network. Thank you.
Another great video. If people are looking to by a similar product because they don’t have the time make their own. Squirt Lube, is a wax based liquid lube for bike chains. I find it works well.
this is a hell of a lot safer than working with Xylene! thanks for the update. PS: Wax is just oil thats solid at room temperature. its not the oil thats attracting dirt but the polar extreme pressure additives in the oil that are designed to attach to metal surfaces on one end and dirt on the other to keep the dirt away from the metal surface. Wiping the dirt off does the trick
Did the cleaning, waxing of my new ebike chains. Love the results. Going to make your emergency wax lube, just in case. Love your great cycling/biking advice.
I have watched several of your videos last couple of weeks. I love it. I love the content and you as a host. Definitely one of the best bike-related channels, if not the best without a huge corporation to lean on such as GMBN... You are an awesome dude and very enjoyable to watch and it definitely shows you have huge knowledge about what you're talking about :) For lubricant, I used Muc off C3 dry lube ceramic last year, for this year I switched to Squirt lube, very happy with it, what do you think of these two?
A thought that came to mind while watching the heating part. For those who have ultrasonic cleaners, you could probably have that be the heater with water as usually there is a controllable heating unit builtin.
I did that and put my chain and wax in to a glass jar, then I turned on the ultrasound to Degas the wax and chain. It worked well and I could imagine that it would help disperse the PTFE to get an even coat
LOL! I made an 'ultrasonic' cleaner for the degreasing part by putting a folded over hand towel between the glass mason jar's bottom and a percussion massager... I was sick of shaking and afraid I would shatter the glass.
Just wanted to say a big Thank You for sharing all this great information. Still using up my moly wax but will upgrade soon...... I noticed after your video that PTFE on ebay went out of stock..... safe riding mate.
I tried your wax method in the UK in our very wet winter. In these conditions the wax doesn't work as it gets washed off the chain and from between the links. My chain lasted approximately 1000kms which is worse than regular dry lube, even though I rewaxed every 300kms. I think that wax will work well in dry climates as advertised but people need to know what a disaster wax can be in monsoon type conditions and really need to not listen to people from Australia and California that think they have found the perfect solution to all chain questions, not true. Because something works in one climate, you cannot assume it works in all climates.
@@stevenleffanue That's totally illogical. Each time I waxed the chain I had to free the links by hand after the chain had dried, so there was clealy wax in the links. The chain wax was up to temperature and chain was swilled around for 30 minutes. The chain was also cleaned using your method before waxing. I think you may need to reevaluate whether chain waxing really works in harsh European winter type conditions and not assume user error.
@@plantfuelled8912 Excuse me, I think you do not mix the wax with the paraffin oil well, because it is precisely the paraffin oil that makes the wax stick to the chain. the texture of the mixture is very important, if you achieve the mixture well I assure you that you will change your mind, regards
Well i live in wales and it's pretty dam wet here probably more than rest of UK and mine works fine think you need to clean your chain properly first so it does work maybe not as well as dry climate but better than everything else I've used .
You've saved me a lot of money over the years. Making my own bearing press tool, making my own head set tool, buying awesome Chinese carbon wheels, but this is one I have to take a pass on. I use Squirt lube, and it's pretty awesome. It's a bit expensive I'll grant you, but it works like a charm and I don't need to buy a slow cooker, thermometer, wax, wire etc... This just seems like a very long road to take to solve a very minor problem.
@@stevenleffanue Oh there's definitely some marks. I wipe my chain down after every ride, and degrease and relube it once a week. I also take my cassette off once a month and degrease it thoroughly. Your method would result in some small improvement I'm sure, but not enough in my estimation to go through all that trouble. Maybe I'm wrong?
@@jshepard5840 Once you've cleaned a new chain and keep one or two more in reserve, ready to go, you'll find that it's actually easier, quicker, and MUCH cleaner than Squirt, Rock & Roll and any of those sticky, dirt attracting lubes. Waxing right will leave your chain going many times longer also. When it's time to re-wax, just pop on a reserve pre-waxed chain and through the other chain in newly melted wax later. And, if you make this wax lube, it's the same as what you're doing now, but better.
I made the initial cleaning and waxing on a Merida Speeder equipped with Shimano 105 drivetrain. 2x petrol (contains 10% bioethanol here in Hungary/Europe), then degreaser, then denaturated alcohol, finally a brake cleaner spray. Then the wax bath in paraffin candle wax. The excess was removed with a toothbrush. Since then (appr. 100kms in dry conditions) i am endlessly happy with the smoothness of ride and the cleanness of the chain. I don’t have to be afraid of the dirty chain making my leg, my car messy. Today i wanted to make the after-lubricant with wax (30%) and isopropyl alcohol (70%, measured by weight on a kitchen scale). And this is somehow not working. My wax is staying in pieces, it does not want to melt in the 65-70 degree Celsius bath even after half an hour. It does not make an emulsion with tiny little wax particles, and if I want to pour, the wax freezes into the nozzle. so I can not apply like this. Maybe do you have a hint what went wrong?
The problem with scraping it off the top of the hardened wax is that, I find that the PTFE settled to the bottom when the wax cools. It is not evenly mixed through when you do the scraping
Same here for my batch....I suppose a good solution would be to take a thin cake slice (equivalent) which has the wax content (all the way through) and then follow the process ? - I hope that makes sense?
Do this when the wax is hot next time you dip your chain. Give it a good stir, then just spoon the hot wax/ptfe into a bottle and add the IPA. You will still need to heat the bottle up to bring the IPA up to temp IOT mix the solution.
Wonderful solution! When scraping the wax from cooker just from top part, does it include PTFE particles? In some other videos you mentioned PTFE settles on the bottom, so top part of hardened wax could be just wax without additives..
True. Its only a temporary lube to get you by. You can add a pinch ir two of ptfe into the bottle if you like or scrape from the bottom of your wax block.
I find that Iso's viscosity is too high and everything spills around the chain when applied. So I changed to Propylene Glycol (organic alcohol used for skin care etc) which has a higher viscosity and evaporates slowlier. Also has a high boiling point and non hazardous. So the perfect alternative for me.
I have wax my chain with paraffine and ptfe... I did the complete clean first... Man, I was riding in sand and mud I still cant believe it, work more than fine. I will make a bottle and wait until I run of of wax, I'm curious!
I have used the hot wax method for 30+ years, and it works better than anything else. For the in-between rides though I use DuPont Chain Saver. It’s a waxed based PTFE aerosol lube that works very well. I first blast the chain , cogset, and chainring with water to get as much dirt off as possible. Let dry and spray Chain Saver with the supplied tube applicator. Try it, and thanks for your ingenious UA-cam videos...very helpful!
You mentioned about contamination a fair amount. After a thorough proper cleaning of the chain and waxing, what say you about properly lubricating the derailleur pivot points and jockey wheels? I reckon if one was to use regular oil lubrication on these parts, they will eventually filter onto the chain and therefore contaminate the freshly waxed chain. Would your liquid wax mixture be a good for derailleurs pivot points and jockey wheels?
I had heaps of problems getting the ptfe to blend with wax when melted . Used nulon which is high in ptfe and it blended beautifully. Cost $25 at any auto shop
Maybe make the temporary wax mixture in a larger glass bottle on the stove then transfer it to a smaller plastic bottle, just in case of an accident with the kettle filament and the plastic and then bigger batches can be made too?
Ill try my first cain wax today. I hope petrol, degreaser and brake cleaner will do the job! wil avoid the PTFE tho... its the worst kind of microplastic.
Ive been able to get as much as 300. miles from my waxing efforts. As a touring rider this may be an ideal solution for longer rides between "home". The challenge I have is reapplication of wax. The hot water method never seems to be enough. I suspect I am picking up oil from the road, leaving me with little choice but to repeat the (somewhat tedious) petroleum cleaning each time.
I do not like just pouring hot water over it; I boil the chain for 2 minutes. But boiling has its own issues: it is corrosive. I like to remove all the old lube, and dry it with compressed air using a nozzle, pin by pin. Wax it and hang it to cool. I very much doubt you are picking up oil unless it is left over from the derailleur, sprockets and/or the jockey wheels. But I have a 21 speed (9x3) and I do not flex the chain side to side as much as single crank setups do.
I tried this wax but now in prison cos the neighbours called SWAT and said I was doing a 'breaking bad'. Just hope the magistrate is a cyclist too so I can explain.
Hi Mr OZ. love your videos and the chain waxing technique. Love it so far. I just made myself a bottled of togo wax like the video but when my bottle got to room temp, the wax was solid!! I folloed the steps so now wondering what have I done wrong. Any tips for that? thank you! Regis
Great new formula. Alcohol is more healthy (at least if you don´t drink it) and more enviromental friendly. At least in germany it is not alowed to dump chemical, including hot water with wax, in the sink. You have to give it to companys that clean and recicle it. Thats the reason why i am useing an ultrasonic cleaner. That safes the amonut of cleaning solvent.
I took my gravel bike over to indonesia for a 3 week trip. Experienced tons of sand, mud, flood water (salt water) and extreme heat. 650km and still shmick🤙. I did the hot wax dip right before the trip and used a squirt of the wax solution every couple of days while on the trip.
Hello! I wanted to ask is it possible only to use the liquid you made?(not putting the chain in hot wax) And what wax did you use(does it differ from candle wax, or has any specific name)? Thank you! -Ignas
I saw you at the Fury/Wilder fight at the Baysy pub on Sunday. At least, I think it was you. You were whiffled. I introduced myself and you looked at me like I'd eaten your wallet and complained about it tasting wallety.
Hello, could you please upload a video on how to service bearings? Especially free hub bearings and/or wheel bearings in general. A piece of advice on when and how often to service them (or even replace them) would be very very welcome !
hello, thank you for your videos, I learn lots of things by watching you. I tried to make a small bottle of liquid wax with isopropyl alcohol but the result i make a sort of cream not liquid i added a little alcohol but it's always the same . thank you for your answer
If you keep adding more IPA the mixture will eventually be liquid enough. There is also an updated version of bottled wax.... ua-cam.com/video/XY7QI3xfa_4/v-deo.htmlsi=BEZBmESWdNUwIWP6
I have one problem with paraffined chain. It is becoming rusty in wet riding condition. Especially in winter time when roads are treating with salt. In northern Europe countries it is quite common way of treatment. Oil instead of paraffin protects chain from rust.
Hi, I love the waxed chain, tks and I like the idea of the extender wax in a bottle. I have been thinking on the extender wax My thoughts below, they may be of no use or may be useful, but … ON the Extender: You scrape the wax from the current supply. My experience with the wax is that the PTFE falls to the bottom, it does not actually mix fully with the wax. This is not a criticism just an observation. So I was thinking that there must be no, or little PTFE in the extender. To address this, I took the wax from the HOT mixture after mixing with my not patented wooden dowel. That way I knew I had PTFE. Your Thoughts? On Application of the Extender: What you do makes sense, but I thought there may be a way to immerse the chain in the extender liquid. I have a no longer necessary chain cleaning device! I really cleaned it and propose to use that when I need to apply the extender. The chain cleaner will semi-submerse the chain and then brush on the extender. I can top up the extender in the chain cleaner “wax extender” device. I have not had the chance to use it yet, but that is what I will do before I next re-wax just to see how it goes. Your thoughts? Ray…
You cannot believe how stunned I was to see this video. You could at least have given me some credit for this one, since I was the one telling you that I use isopropyl alcohol in my response (see below) to your video on how to make the ultimate chain wax. "Hey OZ. I'm a great fan of your channel. Very informative and fun to watch, but this time you left me confused. No more paraffin oil in the mixture?? And no explanation on why not. I have tried the old formula and was semi happy with it since my chain would still pick up some dirt after every ride (probably because of the paraffin oil). The xylene formula was a bad idea from the beginning. Very toxic product and smelly. I did some testing with other additives, and found that isopropyl alcohol was working good (50:50 mix). The alcohol evaporates quickly and there is no stinking smell as with xylene. However, after evaporating, the texture of the wax changes and remains more fluid. So, bottom line, I solely rely on dipping my chain in hot wax every so many km's, because it's easy and doesn't take much extra time. You need to clean the bike anyways, so while I clean the bike, I melt the wax and leave the chain in there for a while. I'm also an addict of ultrasonic cleaning of the chain (and other bicycle components). Warm water and a bit of detergent works great for me. 10 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner and a rinse with hot water results in a spotless chain that leaves not a single stain if you pass it through a rug. So, to conclude: I will give the new formula a try, but will probably still ad some paraffin oil in the mixture (25%) since it avoids flaking of the wax. Also, it's probably not a bad idea to explain to us why you skipped the paraffin oil and what happened to your xylene formula."
Aloha from Hawaii! I have been enjoying your channel and have watched pretty much all of your videos. I was intrigued about waxing my bike chain, so I took good notes, bought everything, bought an extra chain, two quick links and everything else that you said was needed. Today I cleaned, degreased, and used mentholated spirits (denatured alcohol) and then waxed both chains and installed one of my Specialized Venge. Tomorrow I have a 30 mile ride so I’m looking forward to trying the new waxed chain. Thanks so much, I enjoy watching you and all your friends in Australia. P.S. I cannot find any 12 speed chains or links from Connex in the USA, any thoughts?
@@stevenleffanue Thanks, I went to both sites, neither offered the Connex 12 speed chains or links, but I did send an email to each business asking if they will be carrying them. Have a great week!
It was an effort to clean chain from all the sram factory grease, but well worth it. I went all in and did 4 chains for this coming ride season in Michigan, 🇺🇸 . I may suggest a vigorous rinsing(especially with lubed chains) between degreasings a couple/few times, so as to not carry the grime to your mineral spirits. After an extensive ride, No sign of any grime with the finger rub. Also, a double taped toothbrush will be worth keeping on hand for post ride surface cleanings.
Love your videos. I've waxed my chain as you described and thus far, works great. Thanks. The only problem I'm having is with the "Chain wax in a bottle" technique. I've melted the wax/Ptfe into 91% isopropyl alcohol. While warm, it desolved great. But once it cools off, the wax settles in a clump again. Any suggestions? Maybe exact measurements of wax to alcohol would help. Thanks and keep making these great videos.
@@ThomasFlorimonte 91% iso is in most any pharmacy in the US. And any hardware store should have denatured alcohol which starts off at 100%. All alcohol will absorb water from the air over time but should still be 90%+ and work fine.
The last days i been thinking on ways to isolate the chain and gearsystem from the environment to prevent dirt and contaminants. On a IGH system it would be easy to just use a pair of PE tubes along the chainlengths but derailleur gearing poses a big challenge. I remember several old bikes had a casing around the chain and it cant be that bad of an idea.
The problem I see is that the wax deposite is too dry and will fall out over road bumps or blow out prematurly. This is based on how easily it brushes off, your worrds it's like talcumn powder. It lacks some sickness of adhesion. I prefer a melted wax with with 20% 20W50 oil by volume.
Hi Oz Cycle, recent convert to your wax methods. Thank you. 1 question. Can you recommend recommend a commercial drip wax for the top up wax? The isopropyl alcohol is like 10 bucks from bunnings so thinking of taking the easy way out. So basically which top up wax would you recommend if you had to buy and not make which would be compatible with your dip waxing?
I use "Household Paraffin Wax". It is softer than what Oz uses (MP 37c) but it is FDA approved (which, for a second, I thought I would brag about, but I am in the USA so it does not mean it is perfect, but suitable for waxing apples🤔) I have had none of the suspension issues with it in a drip and I seem to get more miles than others (I re-wax between 250-300 miles on a 9x3 speed) and I have yet to hear a squeak.
Isopropyl alcohol is not the best solvent for this purpose. Most of it is sold with 10-30% water in it. Water is not a good thing to add to your lube. Naphtha (camp stove fuel) will completely dissolve paraffin, even at room temperature - it will not be milky. The ratio of solvent to wax should be about 6:1, but it can be as little as 3 or 4:1. With less solvent, the mixture will turn to a milky mush at a higher temperature and require placing the bottle in some warm tap water to raise the temperature a bit. Then the solution will return to complete clarity - it will not have a milky look. If the paraffin is melted before mixing with naphtha, it will dissolve quickly at room temperature. There is no need to clean a chain before refreshing the lube. Applying hot water is also not needed for a refresh. It will just fill the space inside the roller with water and make the lube ineffective.
Did it both today. Oz style and your tip with naphta 1:6 (Centralin e.g. for Zippo Lighters). Both worked out fine. The naphta-mix was much easier to prepare. Thanx a lot guys and Oz good on you! Keep on going!
Fantastic, very happy with waxed chains but kept training bike with commercial dry lube for above reason, now can wax all bike chains and use bottled lube for backup👏Anyone know where I can get the PTFE powder at a good price, originally got it for about $6 50 grams. But not anymore.
Let chain sit in the hot wax to heat up for 3-4 minutes then swish the chain. Let sit again for 5 minutes and if no more bubbles come out of the chain when you move it, it's ready.
Just one comment not really related with the wax but with your bike clamping. Just be careful using the frame upper tube. It is not strong enough to support the clamping forces and your weight. You can damage it. there are tons of proof about it.
I have a hack. I use your prewious resept and when i ably new wax on chain i first show naked butane flaim on chain. Very fast and fluent just to make chain warm. Here is temperature now out -5•C and inside +18•C so all waxes are pit harder all the time. If neaded i ably more bottlewax on chain. I allways have to prewarm that aswell.
Warming the chain is a great idea, although I think a heat gun would be a safer alternative since the flame might degrade some of the PTFE particulate.
No need to heat your chain when applying this. It is not a hot wax. The IPA is a carrier for the wax/ptfe which has already been mixed. This is something to get you by until you can do a hot wax. It is not a replacement for hot wax.
I see one disadvantage, the isopropyl alcohol will maybe not be allowed on flights pga. safety reasons, not in cabin baggage and maybe not as main baggage i.e.in the bike Box.
talk ebikes please the new 11 and 12 speed casettes and chains seem to be much more durable then 10 speed, can i swap to a 12 speed and 12 speed chain and get a stronger setup...i just wore out my first chain 0.50 in 470 miles and 12000 feet of climbing......got new chain....degreased and waxed per your instructions...looks easy on you r video's but my chain didnt get the same amount of wax on them as you seem to.....your video's have really helped me watching the saddles one's as my Bulls ebike was born with a horrible torture device, 500 miles and im still in pain....china saddle here i come
Just pour a liquid wax in a bottle with an alcohol, you don’t need to heat both. Or, dissolve the wax in a gasoline or “solvent” instead of an alcohol.
This basically duplicates Rock 'N' Roll Absolute Dry (PTFE in naptha) and White Lightning Easy Lube (wax in naptha). Of the two, RnR Absolute Dry runs cleaner and slicker.
Just about to make my first bottle of the 'handy carry' isopropyl mix; though one thing that I'm curious about is the fact you scrape off the wax from the cooled solidified mix, with the PTFE settled to the bottom; so I get the impression for this temp mix it'll be fairly weak on the teflon for the sticking properties. I'm wondering if scooping off a small quantity of the warm, well mixed liquid mix when dipping a chain to save to then later crumble that back to small portions and easier/quick dissolving in the Isopropyl might mean the stiction properties are improved? A bit more pfaffing around for marginal gains? Otherwise I've been swapping two chains on my regular road bike the last couple of months and maybe ~1500km total, and the rule of thumb ~300km reapplication is working about right in dry conditions; but I'm aware winter is coming and both me and the bike are gonna get caught out on a longer day ride AND get wet soon enough! God forbid I have to go back to some oil based lube and the muck mid ride and have to start the whole process over again.
Your waxed chain performs the same in wet conditions don't worry. However , if you let your bike sit wet for a day or two after , the chain may start to rust on the outside. So after wet ride just wipe chain lightly to get water off. You can also add paraffin oil 50:50 to your wax to prevent rusting.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for the reply. I think it was just from my past experience with commercial wax based products some years back (White Lightning iirc), and some others anecdotal DIY/Homebrew wax experience that riding in wet conditions sped up the need for reapplication. At least as I recall, things started squeaking and feeling dry soon after a rain rinse. Anyway since my earlier post my little travel shampoo bottle (100mL) of the 'handy carry' seems to have dissolved nicely and looks ready to try. I am getting paranoid about getting drenched on a regional 200K Audax next weekend!
I was tiring to make the wax bottle and I tried 2 times heat it up but the wax wouldn't mix with the alcohol it was separate time I don't know what I'm doing wrong
Austin Duarte same thing for me the isopropyl alcohol does not dissolve the parafine. What work is 1/3 parafine 1/3 liquid parafine and 1/3 metholated spirit like point thinner.
@oz cycle I love the product. But I feel bittersweet. We should think how we can leave the PTFE out of the equation? I have been really careful when I wax that I don't leave PTFE residues to nature. Same with gasoline. I will use the Oz Cycles´s Road Race - DIY Super Wax - in the future but.. PTFE for Graphene? Thank you!
You are wonderful, Mr. OZ Cycle. I did my first chain lubrication with wax last week, and I had never seen my drivetrain so shiny and clean.
I can't thank you in words. It is more than that.
Thank you for your research, thank you for your love of cycling, thank you for your love of the environment and thank you for sharing all this with us, amateur cyclists.
Just saying THANKS.
Francisco Alonso Colom from São Paulo, Brazil.
Were you able to purchase all products without any problems ? In which ratio did you mix ?
@@chrisr.2371 Hello Mr. Chris R.
Here in Brazil I found the PTFE after many research in Internet and many telephone calls. The colleague who sold me works with teflon pan linings. He had left over and sold me. About parafin, you can buy candle.
The ratio, please see again the video, Mr. Oz Cycle can explain better than me. Regards from Brazil and be careful with covid 19. Stay at home.
ptfe you can also find this web link: "www.aliexpress.com/item/4000574114103.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.20af2e0e8tNPpQ"
Francisco, você continua lubrificando a corrente com a cera com ptfe? Está gostando?
@@franciscoalonsocolomalonso5546 Onde conseguiste o PTFE no Brasil? Está dando certo?
@@rhadamigor no mercado livre não é difícil encontrar.. 100 gramas, perto de 100 reais.. É caro!
Wow. Biking videos that are easy to understand, comprehensive, not pretentious, and helpful? Thank you, thank you, thank you for explaining what you are doing and why you are doing it. Just great videos!
I’m new to cycling. I bought my first road bike this past December; a used 2014 Trek Domane 4.0. I’ve worked my way up to 40 miles in this time. This is all besides the point I want to make. I’ve watched a lot of GCN while started out, and I’ve found them rather insightful, but insightful is an understatement for your videos. I’m really impressed with your own research, and how you break down concepts. I don’t understand how you don’t have more subscribers, but you’ve won me over.
GNC is the "apple genius bar" of cycling smh smh smh
Just made a batch. Thanks for the tutorial! I did it a little different since I was due for a re-wax on my trainer bike. While it was hot, I stirred the wax to mix the PTFE. I then used a spoon to add the mixture to my squirt bottle. I used about a 1:7 - 1:8 ratio since the wax was already melted. Then filled the remaining bottle up with 91% isopropyl alcohol (I couldn’t find 99% like you had). At first I thought all I would need to do is mix it up and it would be done. What I found was when adding the alcohol it hardened the wax enough so it wouldn’t mix. What I did was heat up a pot of water and kept it around 80C while spinning the bottle with my fingers to mix contents. Worked great! ...The intent was to get the same Wax:PTFE ratio as doing a hot wax. It does separate fairly quick so you need to be aware when applying, but a quick shake mixes it up nicely. Thanks again Steve, I look forward to all your videos!
Just wanted to add, make sure you leave the bottle in the hot water long enough to where the wax is totally melted.
Finally made the new batch of wax and love it. Its silky smooth and no black marks when you glide your finger across it. Environmentally friendly and cheap in the long term.
PTFE isn't eco friendly....
Thanks for video Oz
Maybe better to get water right temperature in a pan then sitting bottle in pan rather than putting bottle in kettle. If temp drops a little in 10 mins top with hotter water. Less risk of overheating
Late to this party but thanks for the time you took making this and your other video on this subject, going to convert both my road and MTB biked right away.
Greetings from Lake Tahoe, U.S.A. I did your full treatment wax and it has worked great. So nice to not having to clean the greasy oil off after every ride (mountain bike).
In USA, Methylated Spirits is known as Denatured Alcohol.
Methylated spirits is ethanol (alcohol) that has been made unsuitable for drinking by adding additives such as methanol. Denatured alcohol, also known as methylated spirits, is a greener alternative for your everyday cleaning needs and other domestic jobs.
@VARocketry I can only find it as fuel for alcohol camping stoves. I asked at Lowes and the guy looked at me funny.
@@thecappy. Denatured alcohol (also called methylated spirits, in Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, South Africa, and the United Kingdom) is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage its recreational consumption. Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for alcohol burners and camping stoves.
@@thecappy Home depot has it.
Also called shellac thinner
@@jimmilstein7166 How can you be sure? Thanks!
0:57 - I just went through this process. Gasoline soak for two different types of chains for ~24 hours, then I went to the denatured alcohol soak/shakes. The road chain took six separate shake/soak/shake sessions with new denatured alcohol each time, and the larger MTB chain took nine sessions of the denatured-alcohol shake/soak/shake processes - both over the course of about 20 hours. They were just not leaving clean enough alcohol each time. My guess is that the higher end 'dry' (waxy) lubes I was using, vs. just an oil-based lube, adhered to the chains longer. My point for everyone is - it may not take the mere 3 sessions (which I believe is the method oz showed in the previous waxing video) with the denatured alcohol to clean a chain.
Did you use degreaser between petrol and alcohol?
Excellent advice, and timing, Oz! I am very happy with the chains I ‘ve waxed according to your recipe, and was just thinking about having a little bottle of wax lubricant to use on the road. You were ready with the answer!
Excited to start all these wax chains. Do you use a wax lubricant like you normally do with oil lubricant? Trying not to do a full wax so frequently.
@@choyweide903 I've heard that the wax lasts 400km per full wax. But mine always gets squeaky after 80km or so. Around there and for each 80km I use the drip on wax. I end up re waxxing every 800-1000km fully instead of the reccomended 400km. No chain issues and my chain has no stretch!
Perfect, just in time for my training camp next week. I do find my PTFE sinks to the bottom of my slow cooker. So scraping it the top will be just wax. I'm going to make a fresh mini blend of wax and PTFE instead.
I think as a trail side/touring kit solution in a carry bottle the PTFE isn't crucial. It just aides longevity between the more thorough chain baths *with* the PTFE as a adhesive agent
I do love your videos, you've got me well on my way with my chain waxing. I've now got over a litre of the drip wax as I made it before I saw this video and had initially used too much wax and it kept going solid on cooling. 2 cycles of splitting the mix in two with more isopropyl alcohol and I now have many years of drip wax made. Thanks and keep up the great work!
I'm a mountain bike rider and have been frustrated with chain maintenance issues for the 10 years of my riding. Dry wax lubes have left my drivetrain totally unprotected and noisy after just 1 hour of dusty riding in bushland at Nerang. Not to mention how fast they wear out. Now you have answered my questions about the deficiencies of those lubes and given a solution the the problem. PTFE is the 'secret' weapon. I'll be getting a batch made up asap and following your chain maintinance protocols.
So...what was your experience on your MTB? Also, any comments on wet/mud riding?
After many tests I discovered the big secret:
Add a small part of colophony pine resin in the same mixture, and the paraffin will be slightly sticky, prolonging the durability, besides making the lubrication more powerful!
I'm using 60% isopropanol, 30% paraffin and 10% pine resin. These proportions can be modified, this is just a suggestion.
Not a good idea. It's like putting grease on your chain. It'll attract dirt like an oiled chain.
The purpose of the wax is that it sheds off naturally. That's why the chain stays clean
Thanks for this video. I tried my first wax treatment a month ago and the chain is still going strong!
Keep your videos coming, great information and relevant step by step instructions... as a newbie I am really enjoying them, learning lots... thank you!
These illustration videos are so practical and straight forward making our hobby easy..
Thank you and keep it up
You and trace velo is all one needs,. Great videos.
Yeh,I like Trace Velos humor 😁
Thanks a lot Mr.OZ . Did my first one and will try on my next ride . Since i've just lubricated , suprisingly the sound of the chain gone :)
Thank you so much for the tip. It's perfect. Hugs. Born in Minas Gerais(MG) Brazil. God bless you.
Love the power board on the wall directly wired into the power point. A nice subtle affirmation for my subscription
Nicely noticed! :D
Thanks oz for all you do in research and knowledge. I appreciate you efforts advancing the sport in really useful and informative ways. Cheers from US mate! Thank you!🙂
I want to say you have the best videos on proper care of drivetrains I've ever seen. I've wrenched my own bikes for many years but I continue to learn from your videos. You not only show how something is done, but also explain why. Just as important, you'll show the longterm results. An example is waxing chains. A big eye-opener was the video where you approached the bikes of a group who'd stopped and you were easily able to determine who waxed and who didn't. Your videos are so well done that I'm constantly recommending your channel on numerous FB cycling pages, including Global Cycling Network. Thank you.
Another great video. If people are looking to by a similar product because they don’t have the time make their own. Squirt Lube, is a wax based liquid lube for bike chains. I find it works well.
Gets washed off when it rains
Watching your videos again, because I'm about to order PTFE 1.6micron poweder. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
this is a hell of a lot safer than working with Xylene! thanks for the update. PS: Wax is just oil thats solid at room temperature. its not the oil thats attracting dirt but the polar extreme pressure additives in the oil that are designed to attach to metal surfaces on one end and dirt on the other to keep the dirt away from the metal surface. Wiping the dirt off does the trick
I can watch your explaination whole day... What a nice teacher..thanks
Did the cleaning, waxing of my new ebike chains. Love the results. Going to make your emergency wax lube, just in case. Love your great cycling/biking advice.
I have watched several of your videos last couple of weeks. I love it. I love the content and you as a host. Definitely one of the best bike-related channels, if not the best without a huge corporation to lean on such as GMBN... You are an awesome dude and very enjoyable to watch and it definitely shows you have huge knowledge about what you're talking about :)
For lubricant, I used Muc off C3 dry lube ceramic last year, for this year I switched to Squirt lube, very happy with it, what do you think of these two?
This channel is by far the most useful I've come across
When Mr OZ stops making these wonderful video's we know what has happened: the lube companies will have made him an offer he couldn't refuse :-)
Naw, the truth is already out so they would hire PR propagandists to try and cover it up
Cgn lol
Mr Oz sleeps with the fishes 🐟
🤣👍🏼
A thought that came to mind while watching the heating part. For those who have ultrasonic cleaners, you could probably have that be the heater with water as usually there is a controllable heating unit builtin.
I did that and put my chain and wax in to a glass jar, then I turned on the ultrasound to Degas the wax and chain. It worked well and I could imagine that it would help disperse the PTFE to get an even coat
LOL!
I made an 'ultrasonic' cleaner for the degreasing part by putting a folded over hand towel between the glass mason jar's bottom and a percussion massager...
I was sick of shaking and afraid I would shatter the glass.
I got my first serious bike, (a brompton) and your videos have been very helpful! Setting me off right even before I've started riding it.
You sir, are a bicycle maintance legend . Keep it up. Godspeed 🙏🏻
Thank you so much for this easy explanation, will definitely try your method. God bless you and your family
So nice, I have no words to thank you! Regards from Guatemala
Damn this is DIY version Squirt !
Just wanted to say a big Thank You for sharing all this great information. Still using up my moly wax but will upgrade soon...... I noticed after your video that PTFE on ebay went out of stock..... safe riding mate.
I tried your wax method in the UK in our very wet winter. In these conditions the wax doesn't work as it gets washed off the chain and from between the links. My chain lasted approximately 1000kms which is worse than regular dry lube, even though I rewaxed every 300kms. I think that wax will work well in dry climates as advertised but people need to know what a disaster wax can be in monsoon type conditions and really need to not listen to people from Australia and California that think they have found the perfect solution to all chain questions, not true. Because something works in one climate, you cannot assume it works in all climates.
Sounds like the wax isnt adhering to your chain. Redo the complete clean then wax but dont wipe off any excess and it should right.
@@stevenleffanue That's totally illogical. Each time I waxed the chain I had to free the links by hand after the chain had dried, so there was clealy wax in the links. The chain wax was up to temperature and chain was swilled around for 30 minutes. The chain was also cleaned using your method before waxing. I think you may need to reevaluate whether chain waxing really works in harsh European winter type conditions and not assume user error.
@@plantfuelled8912
Excuse me, I think you do not mix the wax with the paraffin oil well, because it is precisely the paraffin oil that makes the wax stick to the chain.
the texture of the mixture is very important, if you achieve the mixture well I assure you that you will change your mind, regards
@@Edmond.T I also recently used molten speed wax and saw similar poor results. Chain wax just doesn't work well in wet, accept the truth.
Well i live in wales and it's pretty dam wet here probably more than rest of UK and mine works fine think you need to clean your chain properly first so it does work maybe not as well as dry climate but better than everything else I've used .
Great update! Much nicer than the xylene / toluene solution! Will be making myself a bottle of this! Cheers!
Is there another video using xylene? I've been scouring UA-cam and can't seem to find it
Yes you can disolve the wax with xylene , toulene,acetone,isopropyl alcohol,white spirits or wax and grease remover and put it in an applicator bottle
@@stevenleffanue Awesome thanks!
You've saved me a lot of money over the years. Making my own bearing press tool, making my own head set tool, buying awesome Chinese carbon wheels, but this is one I have to take a pass on. I use Squirt lube, and it's pretty awesome. It's a bit expensive I'll grant you, but it works like a charm and I don't need to buy a slow cooker, thermometer, wax, wire etc... This just seems like a very long road to take to solve a very minor problem.
After a couple of rides , wipe your finger on your chain....clean or marks?
@@stevenleffanue Oh there's definitely some marks. I wipe my chain down after every ride, and degrease and relube it once a week. I also take my cassette off once a month and degrease it thoroughly. Your method would result in some small improvement I'm sure, but not enough in my estimation to go through all that trouble. Maybe I'm wrong?
@@jshepard5840 Squirt gets washed off when it rains
@@jshepard5840 Once you've cleaned a new chain and keep one or two more in reserve, ready to go, you'll find that it's actually easier, quicker, and MUCH cleaner than Squirt, Rock & Roll and any of those sticky, dirt attracting lubes. Waxing right will leave your chain going many times longer also. When it's time to re-wax, just pop on a reserve pre-waxed chain and through the other chain in newly melted wax later. And, if you make this wax lube, it's the same as what you're doing now, but better.
I made the initial cleaning and waxing on a Merida Speeder equipped with Shimano 105 drivetrain. 2x petrol (contains 10% bioethanol here in Hungary/Europe), then degreaser, then denaturated alcohol, finally a brake cleaner spray. Then the wax bath in paraffin candle wax. The excess was removed with a toothbrush. Since then (appr. 100kms in dry conditions) i am endlessly happy with the smoothness of ride and the cleanness of the chain. I don’t have to be afraid of the dirty chain making my leg, my car messy.
Today i wanted to make the after-lubricant with wax (30%) and isopropyl alcohol (70%, measured by weight on a kitchen scale). And this is somehow not working. My wax is staying in pieces, it does not want to melt in the 65-70 degree Celsius bath even after half an hour. It does not make an emulsion with tiny little wax particles, and if I want to pour, the wax freezes into the nozzle. so I can not apply like this.
Maybe do you have a hint what went wrong?
The alcohol is heated to same temperate that the wax melts. Let it sit at that temperature until all wax is visibly disolved. Shake bottle as it cools
The problem with scraping it off the top of the hardened wax is that, I find that the PTFE settled to the bottom when the wax cools. It is not evenly mixed through when you do the scraping
Same here for my batch....I suppose a good solution would be to take a thin cake slice (equivalent) which has the wax content (all the way through) and then follow the process ? - I hope that makes sense?
Can always add a half teaspoon of PTFE powder to the bottle.
Do this when the wax is hot next time you dip your chain. Give it a good stir, then just spoon the hot wax/ptfe into a bottle and add the IPA. You will still need to heat the bottle up to bring the IPA up to temp IOT mix the solution.
Wonderful solution!
When scraping the wax from cooker just from top part, does it include PTFE particles? In some other videos you mentioned PTFE settles on the bottom, so top part of hardened wax could be just wax without additives..
True. Its only a temporary lube to get you by. You can add a pinch ir two of ptfe into the bottle if you like or scrape from the bottom of your wax block.
I find that Iso's viscosity is too high and everything spills around the chain when applied. So I changed to Propylene Glycol (organic alcohol used for skin care etc) which has a higher viscosity and evaporates slowlier. Also has a high boiling point and non hazardous. So the perfect alternative for me.
I have wax my chain with paraffine and ptfe... I did the complete clean first... Man, I was riding in sand and mud I still cant believe it, work more than fine. I will make a bottle and wait until I run of of wax, I'm curious!
I have used the hot wax method for 30+ years, and it works better than anything else. For the in-between rides though I use DuPont Chain Saver. It’s a waxed based PTFE aerosol lube that works very well. I first blast the chain , cogset, and chainring with water to get as much dirt off as possible. Let dry and spray Chain Saver with the supplied tube applicator. Try it, and thanks for your ingenious UA-cam videos...very helpful!
Does the chain saver have *any* oils in the ingredients?
@@kodiakpb Not that I’m aware of or can tell. It’s wax, PTFE powder, and a propellant. Definitely dries with a dry white film.
Thanks
You mentioned about contamination a fair amount. After a thorough proper cleaning of the chain and waxing, what say you about properly lubricating the derailleur pivot points and jockey wheels? I reckon if one was to use regular oil lubrication on these parts, they will eventually filter onto the chain and therefore contaminate the freshly waxed chain. Would your liquid wax mixture be a good for derailleurs pivot points and jockey wheels?
Good point.
I had heaps of problems getting the ptfe to blend with wax when melted . Used nulon which is high in ptfe and it blended beautifully. Cost $25 at any auto shop
Thanks for the video and research btw. Your work might be a game changer in chain lubrication.
Maybe make the temporary wax mixture in a larger glass bottle on the stove then transfer it to a smaller plastic bottle, just in case of an accident with the kettle filament and the plastic and then bigger batches can be made too?
Ill try my first cain wax today. I hope petrol, degreaser and brake cleaner will do the job!
wil avoid the PTFE tho... its the worst kind of microplastic.
I'm using Siracha sauce bottles for this. They are clear, good volume, easy to hold and nice pointy end that twists close.
Nice , I will try one too. Thanx 🙂
@@stevenleffanueany solution sir?
Always look forward to Oz's vids.
Ive been able to get as much as 300. miles from my waxing efforts. As a touring rider this may be an ideal solution for longer rides between "home".
The challenge I have is reapplication of wax. The hot water method never seems to be enough. I suspect I am picking up oil from the road, leaving me with little choice but to repeat the (somewhat tedious) petroleum cleaning each time.
I do not like just pouring hot water over it; I boil the chain for 2 minutes. But boiling has its own issues: it is corrosive.
I like to remove all the old lube, and dry it with compressed air using a nozzle, pin by pin. Wax it and hang it to cool.
I very much doubt you are picking up oil unless it is left over from the derailleur, sprockets and/or the jockey wheels.
But I have a 21 speed (9x3) and I do not flex the chain side to side as much as single crank setups do.
I tried this wax but now in prison cos the neighbours called SWAT and said I was doing a 'breaking bad'. Just hope the magistrate is a cyclist too so I can explain.
😂😂😂
😂
Ur aving a laff ladd
Hi Mr OZ. love your videos and the chain waxing technique. Love it so far. I just made myself a bottled of togo wax like the video but when my bottle got to room temp, the wax was solid!! I folloed the steps so now wondering what have I done wrong. Any tips for that? thank you! Regis
Too much wax,not enough isopropyl alcohol.Add more IPA and reheat
@@stevenleffanue i have the same problem too, now i know what to do about it, thank you
Add more IPA
Great new formula. Alcohol is more healthy (at least if you don´t drink it) and more enviromental friendly. At least in germany it is not alowed to dump chemical, including hot water with wax, in the sink. You have to give it to companys that clean and recicle it. Thats the reason why i am useing an ultrasonic cleaner. That safes the amonut of cleaning solvent.
I took my gravel bike over to indonesia for a 3 week trip. Experienced tons of sand, mud, flood water (salt water) and extreme heat. 650km and still shmick🤙. I did the hot wax dip right before the trip and used a squirt of the wax solution every couple of days while on the trip.
Hello! I wanted to ask is it possible only to use the liquid you made?(not putting the chain in hot wax)
And what wax did you use(does it differ from candle wax, or has any specific name)?
Thank you!
-Ignas
You can but you will need to ensure the liquid gets into the links properly.
The wax has ptfe powder added to it.
I saw you at the Fury/Wilder fight at the Baysy pub on Sunday. At least, I think it was you. You were whiffled. I introduced myself and you looked at me like I'd eaten your wallet and complained about it tasting wallety.
Hello, could you please upload a video on how to service bearings? Especially free hub bearings and/or wheel bearings in general. A piece of advice on when and how often to service them (or even replace them) would be very very welcome !
Thanx for the suggedtion George, will put on the list.
hello, thank you for your videos, I learn lots of things by watching you. I tried to make a small bottle of liquid wax with isopropyl alcohol but the result i make a sort of cream not liquid i added a little alcohol but it's always the same . thank you for your answer
If you keep adding more IPA the mixture will eventually be liquid enough. There is also an updated version of bottled wax....
ua-cam.com/video/XY7QI3xfa_4/v-deo.htmlsi=BEZBmESWdNUwIWP6
@@stevenleffanue ok thanks
very informative channel, thanks to you Sir!
I have one problem with paraffined chain. It is becoming rusty in wet riding condition. Especially in winter time when roads are treating with salt. In northern Europe countries it is quite common way of treatment. Oil instead of paraffin protects chain from rust.
See comments below
I started using white lightning chain lube and the drivetrain lasts longer.It was a little noisier but works great
Hi,
I love the waxed chain, tks and I like the idea of the extender wax in a bottle.
I have been thinking on the extender wax My thoughts below, they may be of no use or may be useful, but …
ON the Extender:
You scrape the wax from the current supply. My experience with the wax is that the PTFE falls to the bottom, it does not actually mix fully with the wax. This is not a criticism just an observation. So I was thinking that there must be no, or little PTFE in the extender.
To address this, I took the wax from the HOT mixture after mixing with my not patented wooden dowel. That way I knew I had PTFE.
Your Thoughts?
On Application of the Extender:
What you do makes sense, but I thought there may be a way to immerse the chain in the extender liquid.
I have a no longer necessary chain cleaning device! I really cleaned it and propose to use that when I need to apply the extender.
The chain cleaner will semi-submerse the chain and then brush on the extender. I can top up the extender in the chain cleaner “wax extender” device.
I have not had the chance to use it yet, but that is what I will do before I next re-wax just to see how it goes.
Your thoughts?
Ray…
You cannot believe how stunned I was to see this video. You could at least have given me some credit for this one, since I was the one telling you that I use isopropyl alcohol in my response (see below) to your video on how to make the ultimate chain wax.
"Hey OZ. I'm a great fan of your channel. Very informative and fun to watch, but this time you left me confused. No more paraffin oil in the mixture?? And no explanation on why not. I have tried the old formula and was semi happy with it since my chain would still pick up some dirt after every ride (probably because of the paraffin oil). The xylene formula was a bad idea from the beginning. Very toxic product and smelly. I did some testing with other additives, and found that isopropyl alcohol was working good (50:50 mix). The alcohol evaporates quickly and there is no stinking smell as with xylene. However, after evaporating, the texture of the wax changes and remains more fluid. So, bottom line, I solely rely on dipping my chain in hot wax every so many km's, because it's easy and doesn't take much extra time. You need to clean the bike anyways, so while I clean the bike, I melt the wax and leave the chain in there for a while. I'm also an addict of ultrasonic cleaning of the chain (and other bicycle components). Warm water and a bit of detergent works great for me. 10 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner and a rinse with hot water results in a spotless chain that leaves not a single stain if you pass it through a rug.
So, to conclude: I will give the new formula a try, but will probably still ad some paraffin oil in the mixture (25%) since it avoids flaking of the wax. Also, it's probably not a bad idea to explain to us why you skipped the paraffin oil and what happened to your xylene formula."
Oil attracts dirt
Merci !You are wonderful et generous .Thank you
Aloha from Hawaii! I have been enjoying your channel and have watched pretty much all of your videos. I was intrigued about waxing my bike chain, so I took good notes, bought everything, bought an extra chain, two quick links and everything else that you said was needed. Today I cleaned, degreased, and used mentholated spirits (denatured alcohol) and then waxed both chains and installed one of my Specialized Venge. Tomorrow I have a 30 mile ride so I’m looking forward to trying the new waxed chain. Thanks so much, I enjoy watching you and all your friends in Australia. P.S. I cannot find any 12 speed chains or links from Connex in the USA, any thoughts?
Wiggle?...Chain reaction?
oz cycle Thank you, I will try them.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks, I went to both sites, neither offered the Connex 12 speed chains or links, but I did send an email to each business asking if they will be carrying them. Have a great week!
This Video is newer: ua-cam.com/video/XY7QI3xfa_4/v-deo.htmlsi=u5xgsjSuzDpODDS_ Wax your chain anywhere - make it yourself
= Better⁉️
It was an effort to clean chain from all the sram factory grease, but well worth it. I went all in and did 4 chains for this coming ride season in Michigan, 🇺🇸 . I may suggest a vigorous rinsing(especially with lubed chains) between degreasings a couple/few times, so as to not carry the grime to your mineral spirits. After an extensive ride, No sign of any grime with the finger rub. Also, a double taped toothbrush will be worth keeping on hand for post ride surface cleanings.
Love your videos. I've waxed my chain as you described and thus far, works great. Thanks. The only problem I'm having is with the "Chain wax in a bottle" technique. I've melted the wax/Ptfe into 91% isopropyl alcohol. While warm, it desolved great. But once it cools off, the wax settles in a clump again. Any suggestions? Maybe exact measurements of wax to alcohol would help. Thanks and keep making these great videos.
Use 99% IPA
@@stevenleffanue I'm in the US. You know how hard it is to get any isopropyl alcohol, much less anything over 75%. Any other suggestions?
Xylene
@@ThomasFlorimonte 91% iso is in most any pharmacy in the US. And any hardware store should have denatured alcohol which starts off at 100%. All alcohol will absorb water from the air over time but should still be 90%+ and work fine.
IsoHeat is 99%
thorough and detailed, as always
The last days i been thinking on ways to isolate the chain and gearsystem from the environment to prevent dirt and contaminants. On a IGH system it would be easy to just use a pair of PE tubes along the chainlengths but derailleur gearing poses a big challenge. I remember several old bikes had a casing around the chain and it cant be that bad of an idea.
Google Flevobike Green Machine it will blow your mind
I guess if you have an ultrasonic cleaner you could set the temperature to the required temp and use that to keep it at the right temp.
A lot of ultrasonic cleaners heat only to about 60deg C
@@stevenleffanue I "think" mine goes up to 75/80, but good point. Got some paraffin wax on order to try this out.
The problem I see is that the wax deposite is too dry and will fall out over road bumps or blow out prematurly. This is based on how easily it brushes off, your worrds it's like talcumn powder. It lacks some sickness of adhesion. I prefer a melted wax with with 20% 20W50 oil by volume.
It only brushes off easily at room temperature. If you press on a piece rather than brush it, it sticks.
Thanks! The best bicycle channel! Good Luck!
IT'S THE SECOND COMING PEOPLE!
Awesome video! Thank you a lot! Portable wax lubricant for cheap!
Why now Isopropanol and not Xylenes (Xylol) which you mentioned in another video?
Just adding another positive review and without ptfe. Worked great. Also I ride a recumbent. The chain is long.
Hi Oz Cycle, recent convert to your wax methods. Thank you. 1 question. Can you recommend recommend a commercial drip wax for the top up wax? The isopropyl alcohol is like 10 bucks from bunnings so thinking of taking the easy way out. So basically which top up wax would you recommend if you had to buy and not make which would be compatible with your dip waxing?
I use "Household Paraffin Wax".
It is softer than what Oz uses (MP 37c) but it is FDA approved (which, for a second, I thought I would brag about, but I am in the USA so it does not mean it is perfect, but suitable for waxing apples🤔)
I have had none of the suspension issues with it in a drip and I seem to get more miles than others (I re-wax between 250-300 miles on a 9x3 speed) and I have yet to hear a squeak.
Isopropyl alcohol is not the best solvent for this purpose. Most of it is sold with 10-30% water in it. Water is not a good thing to add to your lube. Naphtha (camp stove fuel) will completely dissolve paraffin, even at room temperature - it will not be milky. The ratio of solvent to wax should be about 6:1, but it can be as little as 3 or 4:1. With less solvent, the mixture will turn to a milky mush at a higher temperature and require placing the bottle in some warm tap water to raise the temperature a bit. Then the solution will return to complete clarity - it will not have a milky look. If the paraffin is melted before mixing with naphtha, it will dissolve quickly at room temperature. There is no need to clean a chain before refreshing the lube. Applying hot water is also not needed for a refresh. It will just fill the space inside the roller with water and make the lube ineffective.
I havnt tries naphta,thanx for suggestion. Pour hot water over chain in a seive...water want get into the links.
Did it both today. Oz style and your tip with naphta 1:6 (Centralin e.g. for Zippo Lighters). Both worked out fine. The naphta-mix was much easier to prepare. Thanx a lot guys and Oz good on you! Keep on going!
Any thoughts on Shellite?
@@stephenallen5027 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellite
Should be the same !
Fantastic, very happy with waxed chains but kept training bike with commercial dry lube for above reason, now can wax all bike chains and use bottled lube for backup👏Anyone know where I can get the PTFE powder at a good price, originally got it for about $6 50 grams. But not anymore.
Nice video and presentation.
By the way does the chain temperature needs to be elevated to let wax lubricant enter the pins?
Let chain sit in the hot wax to heat up for 3-4 minutes then swish the chain. Let sit again for 5 minutes and if no more bubbles come out of the chain when you move it, it's ready.
Was the paraffin used 100% pure (candle) or already mixed with mineral oil (or paraffin oil)?
100% Candle
Just one comment not really related with the wax but with your bike clamping. Just be careful using the frame upper tube. It is not strong enough to support the clamping forces and your weight. You can damage it. there are tons of proof about it.
Its in loose
Why use isopropyl as a solvent instead of methylated spirit?
I have a hack.
I use your prewious resept and when i ably new wax on chain i first show naked butane flaim on chain. Very fast and fluent just to make chain warm. Here is temperature now out -5•C and inside +18•C so all waxes are pit harder all the time. If neaded i ably more bottlewax on chain. I allways have to prewarm that aswell.
Warming the chain is a great idea, although I think a heat gun would be a safer alternative since the flame might degrade some of the PTFE particulate.
I have metal bike fraim, rims and spokes. So i’m not worried about ruining them with flame or heatgun. Outs if you have carbon frame and wheels.😐
No need to heat your chain when applying this. It is not a hot wax. The IPA is a carrier for the wax/ptfe which has already been mixed. This is something to get you by until you can do a hot wax. It is not a replacement for hot wax.
Hack is that when wax is old you can try to warm it and get few longer km from it.
@@johnwilliamson9453 Yeah, I'm going to try to heat my chain with a heat gun and not blister the paint...😑
I see one disadvantage, the isopropyl alcohol will maybe not be allowed on flights pga. safety reasons, not in cabin baggage and maybe not as main baggage i.e.in the bike Box.
talk ebikes please the new 11 and 12 speed casettes and chains seem to be much more durable then 10 speed, can i swap to a 12 speed and 12 speed chain and get a stronger setup...i just wore out my first chain 0.50 in 470 miles and 12000 feet of climbing......got new chain....degreased and waxed per your instructions...looks easy on you r video's but my chain didnt get the same amount of wax on them as you seem to.....your video's have really helped me watching the saddles one's as my Bulls ebike was born with a horrible torture device, 500 miles and im still in pain....china saddle here i come
@oz_cycles Been a month since I followed your advice and waxing the chain makes maintenance so much easier. Thanks!!
Nice. It takes a while to realize the benefits...like a cleaner drivetrain
Just pour a liquid wax in a bottle with an alcohol, you don’t need to heat both. Or, dissolve the wax in a gasoline or “solvent” instead of an alcohol.
Have you looked at the ingredients of liquid wax?
many thank yous, I came over to your amusing demonstrations;
This basically duplicates Rock 'N' Roll Absolute Dry (PTFE in naptha) and White Lightning Easy Lube (wax in naptha). Of the two, RnR Absolute Dry runs cleaner and slicker.
Just about to make my first bottle of the 'handy carry' isopropyl mix; though one thing that I'm curious about is the fact you scrape off the wax from the cooled solidified mix, with the PTFE settled to the bottom; so I get the impression for this temp mix it'll be fairly weak on the teflon for the sticking properties.
I'm wondering if scooping off a small quantity of the warm, well mixed liquid mix when dipping a chain to save to then later crumble that back to small portions and easier/quick dissolving in the Isopropyl might mean the stiction properties are improved? A bit more pfaffing around for marginal gains?
Otherwise I've been swapping two chains on my regular road bike the last couple of months and maybe ~1500km total, and the rule of thumb ~300km reapplication is working about right in dry conditions; but I'm aware winter is coming and both me and the bike are gonna get caught out on a longer day ride AND get wet soon enough! God forbid I have to go back to some oil based lube and the muck mid ride and have to start the whole process over again.
Your waxed chain performs the same in wet conditions don't worry. However , if you let your bike sit wet for a day or two after , the chain may start to rust on the outside. So after wet ride just wipe chain lightly to get water off. You can also add paraffin oil 50:50 to your wax to prevent rusting.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for the reply. I think it was just from my past experience with commercial wax based products some years back (White Lightning iirc), and some others anecdotal DIY/Homebrew wax experience that riding in wet conditions sped up the need for reapplication. At least as I recall, things started squeaking and feeling dry soon after a rain rinse.
Anyway since my earlier post my little travel shampoo bottle (100mL) of the 'handy carry' seems to have dissolved nicely and looks ready to try. I am getting paranoid about getting drenched on a regional 200K Audax next weekend!
I was tiring to make the wax bottle and I tried 2 times heat it up but the wax wouldn't mix with the alcohol it was separate time I don't know what I'm doing wrong
Austin Duarte same thing for me the isopropyl alcohol does not dissolve the parafine. What work is 1/3 parafine 1/3 liquid parafine and 1/3 metholated spirit like point thinner.
Thank you! Would be nice to ride with you. Welcome Finland :D !
@oz cycle I love the product. But I feel bittersweet. We should think how we can leave the PTFE out of the equation? I have been really careful when I wax that I don't leave PTFE residues to nature. Same with gasoline.
I will use the Oz Cycles´s Road Race - DIY Super Wax - in the future but.. PTFE for Graphene? Thank you!