KTM 1290 Superduke R Oberon Clutch slave cylinder.
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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As pointed out to me I failed to realise the diaphragm had expanded. It's meant to be flat and not cone shaped as you see when I take it out and re fit it. It should have been obvious to me but for some reason it didn't register in my grey head. 🙂 as I'd only bled the clutch a few months before, Oops. Thanks to @ducatirichie7725 for pointing it out.
Have it since this year and love it! Easy to use 2 fingers only on the clutch and much better and precise than the original! Great product!
Totally agree.
Just wanted to say a big thank you 👍🏻 My clutch slave cylinder actually gave up, so replaced it with the Oberon and watched your video to sort it myself much appreciated 👍🏻 Great videos and channel keep up the great work, Ride Safe 🏍💨💨
Thank you, very much appreciated and glad you managed to sort it yourself.
Take care and ride safe.
When bleeding your breaks or clutch. I wouldn't use the res fluid. As it'll have air trapped inside it, you'll just be chasing your tail. I'd just get more fresh stuff from the bottle. Break fluid is cheap
I finally plucked up the courage to install the Oberone I bought in November for my GT. Installed using your video and all working well. Cheers mate.
That’s great pal. I’m glad it was of some help.
Good to see you back mate
Thanks pal.
I’ve just been notified you’ve sub’ed. I though you already were. Did you leave me and then miss me . 🤣.
Good vid Rob that Duke sure is looking good 👍
Cheers pal. Appreciate it.
Proper way to bleed the clutch is to bring the lever all the way in and let it spring forward on it own. The more you flick it the more bubbles you get out. Alot faster and easier
This is the proper way for these bikes according to a KTM tech.
@Robbiemoto Yamaha, Ducati, and a ktm tech says otherwise
I guess each has their own way. I enquired with a KTM tech and he said the way to bleed them easily is reverse bleed.
@Robbiemoto me too! And just so you know, there is no bleeding procedure in the shop manual. It's whatever the tech decides to do. And everyone does it differently. Your way is just messy and takes a lot longer. Just did the same thing, and all I did was flick the lever and all the bubbles were gone. Just like the Yamaha, Ducati and ktm tech said. Try it before you discard it. Or keep doing it the messy and longer way. No matter what when your pumping into a system there is going to be bubbles regardless of the direction. So no you didn't get it all
@@waltermiller249 Well the clutch works and is stronger than before so agree a little messy but this old amateur got there in the end. Lol.
Robbie, put your diaphragm back in properly it's meant to fold up in itself not be fully extended, next time if you're quick swapping over the line you won't lose all your fluid and I'm not a fan of backwards bleeding although many people swear by it..
Thanks for that. I did think it look a little funny when I took it out. As it wasn’t like that when I bled the clutch before but didn’t think anymore of it. I think it’s fixed itself once I started pulling the lever in as it’s not extended in the reservoir. Apparently the only way to bleed these are reverse bleeding.
@@Robbiemoto definitely not the case I've fitted the same master cylinder but I did use the new backing plate, my old master cylinder was rusty on my retaining clip I had one replaced under warranty but when I took that one off that was rusty as well.
@@richiektm Fair enough. I’m only going on what the dealer told me in the past that KTM clutches have to be reverse bled. Either way it works lol.
@@richiektm You we’re spot on mate concerning the diaphragm. I went for a quick ride after I fitted the slave yesterday and the pot looked clear. I’ve just checked after you mentioned it and it was the same so I pulled it and reshaped it. Good spot my friend.
@@Robbiemoto no worries pal
When I did mine on a 950 smr , i left the cap on and lost next to no fluid ,then just let it gravity bleed itself and never had any trouble with it. The reverse bleed just seems a faff
Yeah it does but wasn’t too bad to be honest. It was the dealer that told me they need to be reverse bled. I tried gravity bleed and pumping the lever but didn’t work.
Robbie, did you happen to see the 44 teeth and knox channel reviews of the gasgas sm700? Both bike testers experienced front wheel tuck when testing, do these bikes (gasgas sm700/husky 701/ ktm 690 smcr) require a steering damper in your opinion? I'm curious why the testers experienced the issue on the sm700? I have not noticed it being reported on any of the 701 or 690 reviews. Thanks and Regards,Ciaran
Hi. No I didn’t but I’ve not had an issue with the 701 at all.
i've swapped my factory slave for the oberon one and followed your guide. No bubbles seem to be coming out on top, I have proper pressure at the clutch lever but when my bike is on the paddock the wheel won't stop spinning when I pull the clutch back in.. .Do I have to keep bleeding it?
Hi.
Sometimes as there’s no resistance on the back wheel it can still spin. Put it in Neutral and Rev it. You may see the wheel turn a little. As you saw in my vid even after I had a few bubbles come through I kept on bleeding it just to make sure.
But if you have a good feel to the lever then just maybe only a few tiny bubbles came out. They were really small for me.
Maybe go for a ride up and down the road a little to see how it feels. If your not happy with that then for peace of mind I’d probably go through another 5 or 6 syringe fulls and bleed it some more.
I hope this is of some help.
while we are asking questions that have nothing to do with this video😉 do you remember the part number of the givi tank lock ring you have used? There website says they don't have one for my 2022 evo. Thanks in advance mate 👍
I believe it’s still the same as a 2020 which is BF11. But double check with your dealer that the fuel cap design hasn’t changed. I don’t think it has but don’t take my word.
Hi Did this prevent air getting in the clutch fluid .Got air in mine now tried reverse bleed still not right.. had this problem with previous owner so going in under Warranty may need a aftermarket slave .
Hi. So far so good. I had an issue with the clutch being “soft” and as you may have seen I bled it but wasn’t totally confident it wasn’t gonna happen again hence why I opted for the Oberon unit which as said has been faultless so far.
@@Robbiemoto ok good to know
I’ve heard similar on other ktm . mine started in Germany still rideable but made hard to get into neutral while clutch not completely disintegrating. I see what ktm say going in for that and the usb on dash not working under warranty.
I looked up the part you fitted I think they around £112 if out of warranty be a good replacement. But it sounds more like it such really of been a recall on the failing OEM .
Yeah they’re not too expensive. Even though I’d never done anything like that before it wasn’t too bad to fit and bleed.
Why the USB isn’t working is a strange one. I hope you get it all sorted soon.
Hi Robbie,
Can you post link for the Oberon clutch slave?
Straight from the Oberon website.
www.oberon-performance.co.uk/ktm-clutch-slave-cylinder/ktm-clutch-slave-cylinder-clu-0121
I have the same bike as you. Please could you tell me where you got your engine guard? Thank you!🇺🇸
Hi. They were from a company called Motea in Germany. SW Motech do a similar version but much more expensive. Mine are good quality but the paint isn’t an exact match but once out in the daylight it’s not that noticeable.
@@Robbiemoto
Thank you for answering my question so quickly. Good luck with your great channel!
@@mtkoslowski Thanks pal. Much appreciated.
😎👍🏼
Its beter then original?
I’m yet to ride as the weather been awful here.
Its been a bloody year now? @@Robbiemoto
Is someone here?
That does sound a little strange. I would recommend bleeding your clutch. Take it to your dealer or have a go yourself. Take a look here. ua-cam.com/video/Kvcmb0Jkzss/v-deo.html