Glad XJ Jesse said this was the channel for V12. Though plugs were replaced by previous owner appreciate DIY video. How to remove non working AC and never used cruise unit is a helpful info. These engines are super smooth and not to be frighten of working on thanks to this channel.Love my XJ12 with factory Jag wire wheels.
Glad you came of from XJ Jesse, he has a great channel! You're very right in saying that you shouldn't be frightened of these V12s. Theres just a lot of everything but they are pretty logical and very very smooth
The best thing of "living with a classic" is there is no $400,000 worth of tools in the background. Here you are shown what tools are needed for each job. I should mention when I removed the AC unit I found two spark plug wires sparking and the wires were rock hard. I replaced them with Standard kit..all 12 for $20 Canadian from Rockauto in the US and the wires were all correct size. It appears when spark plug wires get all dried out they loose their insulating properties
Thank you! Yes there really isn't a budget like that. Just showing how things can be done with some normal tools at home. The plug wires do seem to age quickly in the heat of the V12. I'm about try out a set uprated plug wires on my other V12. They are suppose to stay soft for long and not dry out. Let's see
With a couple of different extensions and a swivel between the first one and one at the socket, the plugs in the rear, under the throttle pedestal, can be changed easily without removing it. There is supposed to be a way to change the front ones without removing the compressor, but I moved it anyway. Glad you vacuumed around the plugs and used anti-seize. I found three different brands of plugs in mine. I think the front two were factory originals. I changed them at 76k miles, shortly after I bought the car. Thanks for helping people not be so afraid of the Jaguar V12. It really isn't as scary as it looks when you raise the hood.
There is a Jaguar tool to change them without removing anything. It looks like an elongated sparkplug socked. But when someone does it at home I think it's nice to remove everything to be able to check various parts and give everything a clean. It's very common for the front plugs to be original. No wonder so many cars have a miss
So I have watched your channel for a while now.. love your videos, always very clear and easy to follow. You really explain the tasks at hand very well. So I finally decided to follow your instructions on replacing the plugs on my XJS v12. It was exactly as you show in the video.. take your time and it’s not difficult. It did take me about 5 hours in total mainly the throttle linkage ‘mount/stand’.. boy those bolts were difficult to get to! But if you don’t remove that, the back 2 plugs can easily be cross-threaded when putting them back in. Keep up the great videos!
The cover on the cruise control bellows is on upside down. A common mistake. You should note that the plugs should be torqued to no more than 8 foot pounds (10.8 newton meters).
Torque spec should totally be added to the video for all applicable items; I actually can't find the spec for the plugs in my giant green workshop manual. Can anyone confirm 8ft-lbs for the plugs? 🙃
Great Video. Three suggestions: 1. there is a special nut from Jaguar for the first two sparkplugs to get them out without removing the compressor. I have seen also a manual how to build the nut yourself, if I find it I’ll post it. The problem is: by removing the compressor, there is a pretty good chance, the a/c system develops a leak. 2. To fiddle in the new plugs where your hands are to big, take a stiffer rubber tube and stretch it over the sparkplugs end and comfy and gently screw them in and pull of the tube 3. I would change the cables also, minimum every second time. A good check for the cables is to open the bonnet by night on a wet day and inspect the cables when the engine is running. If you see any little sparks, change.
having owned a couple of v12 xjs convertibles, I can say that a great time save is to modify a 3/8 drive plug socket. This for the driver bank forward most plug. Lathe/face the leading edge of tool as to become even with the plug hex lower edge. Sneaks past the body of the compressor w/o doing anything w the a/c. As for the remaining plugs , yes swinging the cruise bellows away is good. I snagged the remaining plugs w various swivels and universals . No problem. Once loose, a piece of rubber hose wedged tightly onto those ceramic insulators may well work too. Reduces fear of cracking said ceramic. Install this way too. If tough, penetrating spray does wonders on gauled/stuck plug threads. (see s.o.p. for dealing w stubborn plugs w/o stripping aluminum. If you are doing a major tune up natch just get old cap out of the way. I dont recall messing w the bell crank tower. Couple of hours tops.
Done it a few times without removing all the items also but I prefer to remove everything that way I can clean up in the "V" and clean other components as well.
Interesting to see it done on a pre-facelift. Harder than a facelift, definitely. Your cruise control bellows heat shield appears to be upside-down: it's to protect against heat coming from the vee.
A great video. Thank you. Just plucking up the courage to have a go of my XJ-S as they need doing. Wish me luck lol. Thanks again and a very helpful video. Keep up the great work. 👍
Interesting to see you got a BR7 instead of a TR5. I think Jaguar changed to a colder plug in 1992. My 1985 XJS v12 has TR5GP gapped at 0.025. Do you think I should switch to a colder plug?
Many thanks for your previous advice. I bought the EBC4021 from SNG Barratt and they have supplied me with DENSO T22EP-U which are at least 4mm longer (into the cylinder) that the NGK's that it has fitted now. Car is a 1984 5.3 HE and i'm worried about installing the DENSO plugs - i'd be interested to hear what you think?
@@LivingWithAClassic yes, I phoned NGK and they advised the 1982 to 1985 HE take the BR6EF and the 1986 onwards take the BR7EF, the DENSO (EBC4021 equivalent) from SNG Barratt are projected nose plugs and were a good 4mm longer; deeper into the engine.
Need some help ons wiring in the engine bay any help mostly the switch on the feul rail then next to the coil i have a green solid wire with 12v with a black one
Great guide! Found it a bit difficult to get the AC-compressor back in place, the two large aft bolts are tight and tricky. I finally removed the front bracket all togheter to get more wiggle-room for the heavy compressor. B1 spark plug was wrong brand and gap, I found the root cause to the rough idle :-)
I've been passing buy an old '83 XJS for sale on the side of the road for a year now. Seeing the work it takes to get to the plugs scares me, but iim still considering making the purchase 😅
I have a 1983 HE 5.3 with an older style ignition coil that takes more room. So it was quite finicky to remove the distributor and throttle linkage. I would've had to undo a whole heap of cables so I loosened the "tower" and left it in. Still leaves enough room for the plugs when you can move it around. And I was able to make do with a Saab piece of wood... Thanks for the vid!
I was a Jag dealer tech for 30+ years. I can't even tell you how many V12 plugs I have changed. For one thing EVERY V12 we got in had to have the plugs changed on the PDI (for you amatures that's the pre delivery inspection) they had "shipping plugs" that were a hotter heat range". I never removed all that stuff, I could change all 12 plugs in about 15 minutes. The job only paid 1/2 hour. Not to say this video is wrong, there are just better ways to do it with the right tools. I taught all our techs how to do it efficiently (I was the shop foreman) 18 techs and the largest Jag dealer in the US.
Ya I heard about lots 8f plugs being changed at dealers from idling a lot too. I have done it without removing stuff as well. I mostly wanted to show a way that everyone can manage to do it at home. 15 minutes is good! Think I could probably do that on my pre-HE XJ12 but maybe I'd need 45 minutes on an XJS. Where were you a tech?
@@LivingWithAClassic I have the factory special socket for the front 2 plugs it's a 18G.1364 it looks like this www.freedomracing.com/303-147-spark-plug-wrench.html?___store=default&gclid=CjwKCAjwza_mBRBTEiwASDWVvtuQW1rfcexeslXjpgEEQW2qOgkUv9gVvr4POADevza5czAdk9-HTBoC5YoQAvD_BwE I think I paid about $60 for it. Other than that I used a Snap-On spark plug socket that had the ball swivel and extension permanently attached. I made the installation tool from a #4 phillips screwdriver and a piece of vinyl tubing.
@@BobJeffries I love the bit where you said "for you amatures" my experience has been in 2019 so called pro's know next to nothing about V12 XJS engines or the 4.0 XJ40 ......... MODERN MECHANICS are spoilt with all the Computer assistance they get, and like in many other industries are nothing more than dismantle-rs and assemblers because they have the special tools! This video is to help us cough amateurs do the job just as good as the so called pro's would do it........my long experience with numerous mechanics is you give them your car with a problem to fix........when you get it back its fixed alright but almost always has an new problem "as if its a gift from the cough pro" with excuses like "OH ITS AN OLD CAR" instead of "YEAH I WAS A BIT CARELESS"..............This video is a great effort to assist people to avoid lazy mechanics......just saying its not about you mate, get over yourself......... I am a Cabinet maker and do all the repairs or maintenance on my vehicles I have done for 40 years, because then I don't I have ended up with a problem that wasn't there before the cough pro looked at it...........its not about you and your ego.......
@@LivingWithAClassic I was shop foreman at Alpine Jaguar in Ft Lauderdale FL (now it's called Jaguar Ft Lauderdale) and a tech at Shelton Jaguar in Naples FL.
@@lapalmax59 sorry for offending you, most people that have never worked at a dealer wouldn't know what a PDI is or means. I've been retired for about 15 years now. so back then V12s were quite common. As far as your experience with mechanics breaking more than they fix I know that happens more than it should,.When I was managing multiple techs at Jaguar if you had comebacks you wouldn't last very long. I personally got awards many times for least amount of comebacks in a year usually zero to 3 a year. We really strived for quality service performance to keep our CSI up and our SAR. Yes I do have an ego, I worked very hard to get all my certifications, I'm a ASE Master Tech in both automobiles and heavy duty trucks. I also became a Jaguar Guild member. When I was working I was the highest certified Jag tech in the US.
It's incredible for me the time and money you have to put in v12 jags to keep them running. Fortunately my XJS is a 3.6 so changing the plugs and a lot of other things are really easy to do.
I've got to do this at some point on a HE V12. One bank allegedly had plugs changed 3 years ago (they look older). According to the history, the other bank last had a change in 2000. Hopefully that is incorrect. I tried to remove one of the easier to access plugs as a test, and it was stuck solid, Wouldn't budge even when pulling hard on a 1/2 drive socket wrench. I'm concerned about stripping threads. It doesnt help that the rocker gaskets have been leaking for years and the valley is filled with oil and dirt.
Hi Adam, I have a 1994 XJ12 that has been off the road for 11 years. I've had it for a few years now but have not gotten around to doing anything with it until yesterday. I connected a battery pack to the battery terminals and cranked it a couple of times. I was pleased with the results, the engine is not seized and the starter works. Today I looked into removing the spark plugs. I want to pour some lubricating oil into the spark plugs holes before going any further. I could not see the plugs. I watched your video for guidance. I did notice some differences between your XJS and my 1994 XJ12. Different a/c compressor and the fuel rails look a little different. If you are aware of any change in the procedure on the 1994 please let me know. Thank You
Hi Adam, '92 coupe. I'll be changing my plugs and putting in Denso platinum TT. They come factory gapped at .040. I read in some places the .040 is suggested. I'm planning on .025, but why are they saying .040? Pros? Cons? Thanks for the channel, Mike
NO need to remove the ac compressor, you need the special spark plug socket which has a u/j joint and is shorter and the square for your bar is on one side, you can buy them, it's a slow job on the front plugs but quickest way. NO need toremove throttle pedistle, use the proper socket as above. You get less than an hour to change spark plugs . Change plugs one at a time, make sure there's no debri in resess. 6 To 8 hours to change spark plugs as i said above in the workshop you get less than an hour and when i retired 8 years ago the hourly rate was £105 + vat an hour, add that up.
Thanks for the great V12 Videos. I wondered if you have a video on how to remove the fuel system from a late series 3, to get full access to the middle of the ‘V’. Also how to efficiently replace a broken exhaust manifold. Cheers and keep up the great videos. Thanks
My 87 VDP came with a double swivel, thin and long tool for changing the plugs beside the ac compressor; no need to remove all those bits. Also, compressed air on each plug as you go, vacuums only remove dry swarf. Great video.
I'm glad I watched this. I was about to start on my '88 with about an hour to get into it, figuring I'd do a few and then button it up and do the rest later. I think I'll just save the whole job for next weekend. Also, that bit about the two front spark plugs not getting changed probably explains the miss I have at idle. For comparison, I could do all five glow plugs on my Mercedes in half an hour if I needed to.
@@LivingWithAClassic I was watching most of your videos during the last week. You seem to have a lot of experience with those beauties. I am currently considering buying a 1980 Series 3 Daimler Double 6 VdP. 58000km (documented), only 2500km since 2003. Car is repainted, all rubber parts are to renew (axles, fuel, …), oil is leaking, but I think the base is solid with very little rust at the roof (side water channels). Anything to consider in particular?
@@LivingWithAClassic many thanks. One more question, the air conditioning gas ran out decades ago. I was going to completely remove the compressor and not reinstall it. Do I just saw through the belt to pull it out or is it connected to other pulleys?
@@LivingWithAClassic I agree with the use of antisieze, but acknowledge it might lead to unnecessary over tightening with the extra lub. I will be cautious when I replace my plugs. thanks for all the useful videos.
Glad XJ Jesse said this was the channel for V12. Though plugs were replaced by previous owner appreciate DIY video. How to remove non working AC and never used cruise unit is a helpful info. These engines are super smooth and not to be frighten of working on thanks to this channel.Love my XJ12 with factory Jag wire wheels.
Glad you came of from XJ Jesse, he has a great channel! You're very right in saying that you shouldn't be frightened of these V12s. Theres just a lot of everything but they are pretty logical and very very smooth
Adam is changing spark plugs on a v12 with one hand while filming. Boss
The best thing of "living with a classic" is there is no $400,000 worth of tools in the background. Here you are shown what tools are needed for each job. I should mention when I removed the AC unit I found two spark plug wires sparking and the wires were rock hard. I replaced them with Standard kit..all 12 for $20 Canadian
from Rockauto in the US and the wires were all correct size. It appears when spark plug wires get all dried out they loose their insulating properties
Thank you! Yes there really isn't a budget like that. Just showing how things can be done with some normal tools at home.
The plug wires do seem to age quickly in the heat of the V12. I'm about try out a set uprated plug wires on my other V12. They are suppose to stay soft for long and not dry out. Let's see
Super helpful!
Wonderful video!
Thank you Adam!
Thanks for watching!
With a couple of different extensions and a swivel between the first one and one at the socket, the plugs in the rear, under the throttle pedestal, can be changed easily without removing it. There is supposed to be a way to change the front ones without removing the compressor, but I moved it anyway. Glad you vacuumed around the plugs and used anti-seize. I found three different brands of plugs in mine. I think the front two were factory originals. I changed them at 76k miles, shortly after I bought the car. Thanks for helping people not be so afraid of the Jaguar V12. It really isn't as scary as it looks when you raise the hood.
There is a Jaguar tool to change them without removing anything. It looks like an elongated sparkplug socked. But when someone does it at home I think it's nice to remove everything to be able to check various parts and give everything a clean.
It's very common for the front plugs to be original. No wonder so many cars have a miss
You can buy a special spark plug socket . I worked on jags.
Did I hear you right? You said you torqued the sparkplugs?
So I have watched your channel for a while now.. love your videos, always very clear and easy to follow. You really explain the tasks at hand very well. So I finally decided to follow your instructions on replacing the plugs on my XJS v12. It was exactly as you show in the video.. take your time and it’s not difficult. It did take me about 5 hours in total mainly the throttle linkage ‘mount/stand’.. boy those bolts were difficult to get to! But if you don’t remove that, the back 2 plugs can easily be cross-threaded when putting them back in. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for watching! Yes those bolts can be a pain but it's nice to be able to clean everything out when changing the plus. 5 hours is great time!
Can I august fuel pressure reg 0n 5.3 ltr
The cover on the cruise control bellows is on upside down. A common mistake. You should note that the plugs should be torqued to no more than 8 foot pounds (10.8 newton meters).
Thanks i noticed that during the edit and switched it around. Wasn't really thinking straight
is this also the case for the HE XJ12?
Torque spec should totally be added to the video for all applicable items; I actually can't find the spec for the plugs in my giant green workshop manual. Can anyone confirm 8ft-lbs for the plugs? 🙃
We followed your tips last Saturday and car running good again! Gap on the old plugs was close to 0.9 mm ...
Great Video. Three suggestions: 1. there is a special nut from Jaguar for the first two sparkplugs to get them out without removing the compressor. I have seen also a manual how to build the nut yourself, if I find it I’ll post it. The problem is: by removing the compressor, there is a pretty good chance, the a/c system develops a leak.
2. To fiddle in the new plugs where your hands are to big, take a stiffer rubber tube and stretch it over the sparkplugs end and comfy and gently screw them in and pull of the tube
3. I would change the cables also, minimum every second time. A good check for the cables is to open the bonnet by night on a wet day and inspect the cables when the engine is running. If you see any little sparks, change.
having owned a couple of v12 xjs convertibles, I can say that a great time save is to modify a 3/8 drive plug socket. This for the driver bank forward most plug. Lathe/face the leading edge of tool as to become even with the plug hex lower edge. Sneaks past the body of the compressor w/o doing anything w the a/c. As for the remaining plugs , yes swinging the cruise bellows away is good. I snagged the remaining plugs w various swivels and universals . No problem. Once loose, a piece of rubber hose wedged tightly onto those ceramic insulators may well work too. Reduces fear of cracking said ceramic. Install this way too. If tough, penetrating spray does wonders on gauled/stuck plug threads. (see s.o.p. for dealing w stubborn plugs w/o stripping aluminum. If you are doing a major tune up natch just get old cap out of the way. I dont recall messing w the bell crank tower. Couple of hours tops.
Done it a few times without removing all the items also but I prefer to remove everything that way I can clean up in the "V" and clean other components as well.
Interesting to see it done on a pre-facelift. Harder than a facelift, definitely.
Your cruise control bellows heat shield appears to be upside-down: it's to protect against heat coming from the vee.
Yes they did make a lot of things easier on the face-lift. Thank you, I noticed it while editing. I've turned it around now 😊
I put the silly thing on upside down too and will have to swap it around tomorrow morning; I knew it felt odd going back on 😆
A great video. Thank you. Just plucking up the courage to have a go of my XJ-S as they need doing. Wish me luck lol. Thanks again and a very helpful video. Keep up the great work. 👍
Interesting to see you got a BR7 instead of a TR5. I think Jaguar changed to a colder plug in 1992. My 1985 XJS v12 has TR5GP gapped at 0.025. Do you think I should switch to a colder plug?
It’s trial and error, mine run well on these plugs.
Many thanks for your previous advice. I bought the EBC4021 from SNG Barratt and they have supplied me with DENSO T22EP-U which are at least 4mm longer (into the cylinder) that the NGK's that it has fitted now. Car is a 1984 5.3 HE and i'm worried about installing the DENSO plugs - i'd be interested to hear what you think?
I would only use NGK plugs on the HE engine and nothing else
@@LivingWithAClassic yes, I phoned NGK and they advised the 1982 to 1985 HE take the BR6EF and the 1986 onwards take the BR7EF, the DENSO (EBC4021 equivalent) from SNG Barratt are projected nose plugs and were a good 4mm longer; deeper into the engine.
Thanks for uploading, love your video's!
Can you tell me why my 1986 xjs runs really good one day then it next day It will not start
What are the size of the bolts for throttle pedestal
They are 1/2 inch. It's pretty tight there so a small socket set is useful
Need some help ons wiring in the engine bay any help mostly the switch on the feul rail then next to the coil i have a green solid wire with 12v with a black one
Can you do a video on how to remove the intake manifolds in one piece?
Great guide! Found it a bit difficult to get the AC-compressor back in place, the two large aft bolts are tight and tricky. I finally removed the front bracket all togheter to get more wiggle-room for the heavy compressor. B1 spark plug was wrong brand and gap, I found the root cause to the rough idle :-)
6-8 hour job if you are on your game. More like 10-12 hours. Easy to brake so many connectors and switches too.
Once you've done a few it's more like 1.5 - 3 hours
I am a long retired motor engineer but still bit daunted to do this job myself now in my 70s.
Really helpful made me have ago myself
I've been passing buy an old '83 XJS for sale on the side of the road for a year now. Seeing the work it takes to get to the plugs scares me, but iim still considering making the purchase 😅
After you change the plugs, wires and cap/rotor once, you will be an expert. With Jaguar’s one has to remove 5 items before you can change your part.
I have a 1983 HE 5.3 with an older style ignition coil that takes more room. So it was quite finicky to remove the distributor and throttle linkage. I would've had to undo a whole heap of cables so I loosened the "tower" and left it in. Still leaves enough room for the plugs when you can move it around. And I was able to make do with a Saab piece of wood... Thanks for the vid!
I was a Jag dealer tech for 30+ years. I can't even tell you how many V12 plugs I have changed. For one thing EVERY V12 we got in had to have the plugs changed on the PDI (for you amatures that's the pre delivery inspection) they had "shipping plugs" that were a hotter heat range". I never removed all that stuff, I could change all 12 plugs in about 15 minutes. The job only paid 1/2 hour. Not to say this video is wrong, there are just better ways to do it with the right tools. I taught all our techs how to do it efficiently (I was the shop foreman) 18 techs and the largest Jag dealer in the US.
Ya I heard about lots 8f plugs being changed at dealers from idling a lot too.
I have done it without removing stuff as well. I mostly wanted to show a way that everyone can manage to do it at home.
15 minutes is good! Think I could probably do that on my pre-HE XJ12 but maybe I'd need 45 minutes on an XJS.
Where were you a tech?
@@LivingWithAClassic I have the factory special socket for the front 2 plugs it's a 18G.1364 it looks like this www.freedomracing.com/303-147-spark-plug-wrench.html?___store=default&gclid=CjwKCAjwza_mBRBTEiwASDWVvtuQW1rfcexeslXjpgEEQW2qOgkUv9gVvr4POADevza5czAdk9-HTBoC5YoQAvD_BwE I think I paid about $60 for it. Other than that I used a Snap-On spark plug socket that had the ball swivel and extension permanently attached. I made the installation tool from a #4 phillips screwdriver and a piece of vinyl tubing.
@@BobJeffries I love the bit where you said "for you amatures" my experience has been in 2019 so called pro's know next to nothing about V12 XJS engines or the 4.0 XJ40 ......... MODERN MECHANICS are spoilt with all the Computer assistance they get, and like in many other industries are nothing more than dismantle-rs and assemblers because they have the special tools! This video is to help us cough amateurs do the job just as good as the so called pro's would do it........my long experience with numerous mechanics is you give them your car with a problem to fix........when you get it back its fixed alright but almost always has an new problem "as if its a gift from the cough pro" with excuses like "OH ITS AN OLD CAR" instead of "YEAH I WAS A BIT CARELESS"..............This video is a great effort to assist people to avoid lazy mechanics......just saying its not about you mate, get over yourself......... I am a Cabinet maker and do all the repairs or maintenance on my vehicles I have done for 40 years, because then I don't I have ended up with a problem that wasn't there before the cough pro looked at it...........its not about you and your ego.......
@@LivingWithAClassic I was shop foreman at Alpine Jaguar in Ft Lauderdale FL (now it's called Jaguar Ft Lauderdale) and a tech at Shelton Jaguar in Naples FL.
@@lapalmax59 sorry for offending you, most people that have never worked at a dealer wouldn't know what a PDI is or means. I've been retired for about 15 years now. so back then V12s were quite common. As far as your experience with mechanics breaking more than they fix I know that happens more than it should,.When I was managing multiple techs at Jaguar if you had comebacks you wouldn't last very long. I personally got awards many times for least amount of comebacks in a year usually zero to 3 a year. We really strived for quality service performance to keep our CSI up and our SAR. Yes I do have an ego, I worked very hard to get all my certifications, I'm a ASE Master Tech in both automobiles and heavy duty trucks. I also became a Jaguar Guild member. When I was working I was the highest certified Jag tech in the US.
It's incredible for me the time and money you have to put in v12 jags to keep them running. Fortunately my XJS is a 3.6 so changing the plugs and a lot of other things are really easy to do.
The 3.6 is a great engine that's easy to work on 😊
I've got to do this at some point on a HE V12. One bank allegedly had plugs changed 3 years ago (they look older). According to the history, the other bank last had a change in 2000. Hopefully that is incorrect. I tried to remove one of the easier to access plugs as a test, and it was stuck solid, Wouldn't budge even when pulling hard on a 1/2 drive socket wrench. I'm concerned about stripping threads.
It doesnt help that the rocker gaskets have been leaking for years and the valley is filled with oil and dirt.
Hi Adam, I have a 1994 XJ12 that has been off the road for 11 years. I've had it for a few years now but have not gotten around to doing anything with it until yesterday. I connected a battery pack to the battery terminals and cranked it a couple of times. I was pleased with the results, the engine is not seized and the starter works. Today I looked into removing the spark plugs. I want to pour some lubricating oil into the spark plugs holes before going any further. I could not see the plugs. I watched your video for guidance. I did notice some differences between your XJS and my 1994 XJ12. Different a/c compressor and the fuel rails look a little different.
If you are aware of any change in the procedure on the 1994 please let me know. Thank You
Hi Adam, '92 coupe. I'll be changing my plugs and putting in Denso platinum TT. They come factory gapped at .040. I read in some places the .040 is suggested. I'm planning on .025, but why are they saying .040? Pros? Cons? Thanks for the channel, Mike
NO need to remove the ac compressor, you need the special spark plug socket which has a u/j joint and is shorter and the square for your bar is on one side, you can buy them, it's a slow job on the front plugs but quickest way.
NO need toremove throttle pedistle, use the proper socket as above.
You get less than an hour to change spark plugs . Change plugs one at a time, make sure there's no debri in resess.
6 To 8 hours to change spark plugs as i said above in the workshop you get less than an hour and when i retired 8 years ago the hourly rate was £105 + vat an hour, add that up.
Thanks for the great V12 Videos. I wondered if you have a video on how to remove the fuel system from a late series 3, to get full access to the middle of the ‘V’. Also how to efficiently replace a broken exhaust manifold. Cheers and keep up the great videos. Thanks
My 87 VDP came with a double swivel, thin and long tool for changing the plugs beside the ac compressor; no need to remove all those bits. Also, compressed air on each plug as you go, vacuums only remove dry swarf. Great video.
I'm glad I watched this. I was about to start on my '88 with about an hour to get into it, figuring I'd do a few and then button it up and do the rest later. I think I'll just save the whole job for next weekend. Also, that bit about the two front spark plugs not getting changed probably explains the miss I have at idle. For comparison, I could do all five glow plugs on my Mercedes in half an hour if I needed to.
Very well explained! Thx
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
@@LivingWithAClassic I was watching most of your videos during the last week. You seem to have a lot of experience with those beauties. I am currently considering buying a 1980 Series 3 Daimler Double 6 VdP. 58000km (documented), only 2500km since 2003. Car is repainted, all rubber parts are to renew (axles, fuel, …), oil is leaking, but I think the base is solid with very little rust at the roof (side water channels). Anything to consider in particular?
Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Could you tell me how to remove the pedistal please?
It’s just 4 bolts around the base
@@LivingWithAClassic thanks, I have huge hands, is there an easy way to access them? Many thanks and a great channel by the way
I use swivel wrenches usually or bent wrenches
@@LivingWithAClassic many thanks. One more question, the air conditioning gas ran out decades ago. I was going to completely remove the compressor and not reinstall it. Do I just saw through the belt to pull it out or is it connected to other pulleys?
Excellent help i wanted to ask what do you think of ownership of a v12 jag when you are not very mechanic minded
I think it can be done if you know of a good independent shop nearby. You can also learn to do a lot yourself on these cars.
@@LivingWithAClassic looking at buying a v12 xjs with a service history going back to 1991
NGK_TB-0630111antisieze this is a pdf from NGK and the use of antisieze...interesting?
That is! But this was recommended by Jaguar. They should come out well next time
@@LivingWithAClassic I agree with the use of antisieze, but acknowledge it might lead to unnecessary over tightening with the extra lub. I will be cautious when I replace my plugs. thanks for all the useful videos.
Do you have video on changing the belts and or hoses?
There are two videos on the hoses and coolant flush on the channel
Thanks for the great video. I was wondering if the order of the ignition cable matter?
What do you mean? Yes the ignition cables need to be put on in the right order
@@LivingWithAClassic thank you, I will label the cable as I remove them.
Super helpful video! Just subscribed!
Thank you Gary!
so what happens when you break a few in half?
That’s not good news. Hope you can get them out
The neighbors learn some new obscenities. ;)