Lionel Blue Comet Repair (Part 1/2)
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Hey everyone!
In this video I'll be fixing up a friend's 6-8801 Lionel, Blue Comet from the MPC era. This engine had some issues with the driveline binding after running for an extended period, so I blew the engine apart to do some maintenance and see if I could fix the issue. I ran into some bumps along the way, so I hope you enjoy watching my troubleshooting process in real time.
I've got more project videos coming in the near future, so if you have any recommendations for the video style, just let me know in the comments.
Thanks for watching!
John Brady could answer your questions on the manufacturer process.
@@gusshadleythelunaticfromar7125 Good to know! Thank you!
brushed motors are pretty simple, its the brushless varieties that are infinitely more complex.
I agree! Brushed motors I kind of understand. But the one I designed for school was a permanent magnet based brushless motor, and even though I designed it, I had to heavily lean on my electrical engineering friends to figure out how the thing actually worked.
@@cwhall01 yeah. its far more complicated when the current switching is electric instead of mechanical. it becomes magic at that point.
"Postwar engines you have to take the valve gear off to take the shell off."
I run exclusively postwar Lionel O gauge and I've only encountered this on one type of loco, that being the later run 2026 2-6-4 & all of its derivatives. My 746, 736, 726, 2065, 671 etc. all just have 3 screws holding the body on, and you don't have to take the valve gear off to get to them.
Just curious what postwar you're running, as like I said I can only think of one type of loco off the top of my head that you *need* to remove the valve gear on.
@TitanicKid Very interesting!
I've worked on a 2026 (2-6-2), a 2035 (2-6-4), and a prewar 1666 (2-6-2). Unfortunately, my wording wasn't perfect in the video. When I said valve gear, I was only referring to the eccentric crank (sometimes the reverser pivot is a rivet to the body) and the crosshead (I usually have to remove the slider that is screwed to the body or just pull the crosshead off so the shaft on the end is free of the cylinders which are cast into the body).
On this engine, it was two screws and just the boiler came off, leaving the cylinders and all the running gear intact. Maybe this is more common in postwar engines than I thought, in which case horray! It make them so much easier to work on.
If you are curious to see what I am talking about in better detail, I have an older video on my channel of me maintaining my 1666 and I had to remove the some of the running gear in that video.
Sorry for the long answer, but I hope this answers your question. Thanks!
@@cwhall01 Long answers are better to me!
Seems you've encountered the few postwar engines that do require some running gear disassembly. The K4s (or K5s depending on who you ask) as well as the 1666 & its derivatives are some of the few I haven't yet had the chance to work on extensively, so it'll be fun when I do. I have had one encounter with a 675 though, in which someone had swapped the slotted eccentric rod with a "half moon" rod, which is a whole rabbit hole to go down trying to find the history on, but needless to say that eccentric rod didn't turn right at all.
If you ever get the opportunity to work on some of the bigger postwar locos, such as the berkshires and hudsons from which this model was built, you'll find that accessing the internals is quite convenient.
Can't say the same for a certain prewar hudson I tore down and rebuilt (more literally than one would imagine) recently.
Thanks for the reply! Looking forward to seeing more on this Blue Comet project.
That's to much grease