Відео

@sfm_ferguson5033 these are awesome engines but definitely not worth more than $300. They come up pretty frequently from what I've seen so hopefully another good deal will come soon

@@OldcampRanch the H7s are fantastic! Happy Thanksgiving!

@@TerranceIngoldsby interesting! Thanks for sharing! I'll have to test that theory some time

@@UmoadoGaming agreed! The Reading defintiely had a unique style

Correct! This is just something that older O scale locomotives do. Back when Railsounds was first introduced, most engines only had 1 chuff per revolution. Once Lionel got to the Railsounds 3/4/5 era, they ungraded to 2 chuffs per revolution (why they didn't just go to 4 is beyond me). But during that era, most O scale companies made steam engines with 2 chuffs per rev. Weaver and some Sunset / 3rd Rail engines used a 2 lobe cam attached to the driving axle to trigger a limit switch that sent a chuff signal to the railsounds board. So, while the chuff rate was wrong, at least it would always trigger at the same points in the cylinder stroke. I'm tinkering with the idea of a 4 lobe cam to increase the chuff rate, but I honestly don't mind the 2 chuffs per rev too much right now. So I'll save that upgrade for when it really gets under my skin. Good obervation!

@RiverLineRailPhotoVideoProduct information is never too old to add to. Thank you for the input! I think using the Legacy Cab 2 (along with having the visible buttons like you said) unlocks more features than you have access to with the Cab 1. I personally have used a Cab 1 long enough (with this engine in particular) that I have learned what all the button sequences do on the Cab 1, but I'm sure there is stuff I just can't do without a Cab 2.

@TrasTrains259 I'm actually not sure. It was given to my family by my grandfather as a Christmas gift many years ago. I've seen people trying to sell these reproduction sets for like $5000 but I don't think they are worth nearly that much. Sorry I'm not too much help here.

@ no it’s ok. I’ve just always wanted one. I was just wondering

@brendanstrains9725 I agree! One of the best sound sets ever! And I completely agree on the love of unique sounds and I hate that having road name and number specific dialog now is a feature limited to only the most expensive models ... and Menards. As much as I would love them to reuse this whistle, I think the issue is down to the way the sounds are encoded onto the sound cards which makes them unable to be used with the new RS Lite hardware. I hope someday I'll figure out how to reproduce the RS3/4/5 boards or reprogram an RS Lite board to bring these sounds back with modern electronics.

@@cwhall01 I completely agree with the road number specific crew talk. Its very unfortunate that its only on a few selected engines. The road number specific crew talk made the engine more unique and it isn't quite as annoying compared to newer lionel crew talk we have nowadays. Just hearing the same type of crew talk in every engine just gets old after a while.

@sfm_ferguson5033 Absolutely! I'm running it on O54 here. It will run on O36, but it does not like it at all. I have not tested it on O48, but it seems like that would probably be the tightest it can go without seriously binding up. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine!

@ SWEET THANKS FOR THE IMPUT!!! I was thinking about Menards track 0-48 cause I’d at least have space for that, but if it’s harmful for the engine then I’ll get the next next one up!!

@sfm_ferguson5033 A lot of money and patience. Haha! I'll have more details in a video where I add flags, which should come out in a couple weeks. So stay tuned!

@ heck yeah!! I’m about to BUY a post war T1 2100, the 1989 version, would u know the CURVE radius for it?????

@@sfm_ferguson5033 Awesome! I'm running it on O54 here. It will run on O36 it does not like it at all. I have not tested it on O48, but it seems like that would probably be the tightest it can go without seriously binding up.

@richardsobieck9660 Thank you for the info! I didn't realize there were tiers for the cabooses. I'll have to see if I have one of the 6257s to run with it. I probably do, I just haven't looked through my postwar stuff in a while. Thanks for the comment!

@@cwhall01 They ran those cabooses from 1948 through I think 1953. When the porthole caboose came out they retired the 6457. But since the 6257 became a better caboose they made the 6017. The middle was the 6357 which was lighted and that's about all. Some had the smoke jack and many did not.

@@richardsobieck9660 That's great to know! Thank you!

@jeromekrajcovic2467 I never knew that the CNJ didn't have three axle trucks. Good to know! For the tinplate stuff I wouldn't expect it to be prototypical, but I'm surprised that newer models still use the wrong trucks. I'm sure it has to do with cost savings. But I'm sure whenever Lionel makes a PRR P70, they'll have CNJ versions. It won't be perfect but it might be closer.

Nope. Haha! I'm just an idiot and didn't realize that until after filming. They were made by GE

@cwhall01 lmao I was working on one of my engines and turned my head when I heard that and thought "wait a minute... that dont sound right..."

@CSXrailfan814 I did that with one of my N scale engines once before I understood what a bearing was. I learned very quickly that that was not it

@cwhall01 I can't believe you did that.

@CSXrailfan814 I was in like 2nd grade at the time so it's not too surprising

@cwhall01 I'm less so surprised more so just disappointed.

@CSXrailfan814 Haha! I had to learn somehow. Better on that than an HO or O scale model

Wait I know both these guys

Thank you for your feedback! I know some of the newer versions of the CW-80 don't have the fan in them which I really want seeing as the bearings in mine have almost completely failed. The PN for the trucks I installed are cs-6308300071-p (630-8300-071). I found them on Lionel's customer support website along with the motor (600-8950-100). I did confirm the worm gears were identical between the new motor and the old motor. There is also no resistance when turning over the motor by hand. Also, as you can see, the motors turn very freely when connected individually. But I'll be sure to double-check them if a bigger transformer doesn't fix the issue. That makes sense for the flanges. But wouldn't having the flangeless wheels closer to the inside of the locomotive be a better way to make it negotiate tighter turns? Also, the different types of flangeless wheels was the part that really stumped me. You could tell the rotor was bad because the winding was split as I showed in the video. That would prevent the electricity from traveling through that pole of the rotor and creating the electromagnetic field needed for the motor to operate (at least to the best of my knowledge). As far as I can tell the armature up top is good, it just might not be oriented correctly, which draws excessive power. That's great to know what the brushed are called! I didn't know they had a different name, so thank you! I did know about the reduction in RF noise from my reading online. I don't know how it works, but it's really nice if you like quiet running motors. Thank you again for the feedback!

@DRCRailroard Thank you very much! That's good to know that a CW80 is capable of running these engines! Mine is a little ... we'll say special, though. I know some of the internal components are failing, but I haven't measured the output so I don't know if those failures are effecting it in that way. I know for a fact it has always struggled with my 2383 even though the engine runs just fine on a bigger transformer. I did notice the thrust bearings inside the bottom of the motor casing and made sure they were present on both motors. The rotors do spin freely in both motors and run super well when connected individually. So I'm fairly certain the issue isn't mechanical. I had heard about clocking the armature on the rotor, but I didn't know there was a set screw in there I can use for reference! Thank you for letting me know about that! I still need to test the engine out on a bigger transformer, but if it still requires more power than it should to run, I'll be sure to refer to your comment and check everything you suggested. Thank you again for the advice and insight into repairing these engines! It's great to hear from someone who clearly knows their way around the internals of this style of locomotive and is willing to share that knowledge to help others repair their engines.

@necjerseyrailfan7500 I got them off eBay. They were the best value per dollar I could find. The micromark rollers don't have the center rail pickup on every set which I really wanted. Here's a link to the listing where I got these: www.ebay.com/itm/304161862605?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=BID6xwJvQK6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=0skfqkayqgo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@ronalddevine9587 I think the American Flyer 302 was based on the PRR E6, so that would make sense!

@gojifilms2867 I'm glad you like it! There was definitely a lot of anxiety every time I tested anything new, and a lot of "please don't blow up" going on in my head. Haha! I was actually able to use the wired serial input just like what ERR uses for their boards. I might make the IR drawbar later when I have time to redesign how the engine and tender are connected, but right now it's just got a good ol' direct connection.

@ronalddevine9587 metal gears are definitely the way to go. They last longer and run smoother. The advantage to plastic gears is that they are quieter, but I don't mind a little gear noise to go with the motor wine and e-unit buzz.

@anthonysutube JT Mega Steam smoke fluid and good lighting go a long way. I don't have good lighting so I'm not sure why it looks so good. Haha! If you want to increase your smoke output, you can change out the resistor in the smoke unit. It's a little more involved but totally doable. Just be careful with the gaskets when taking apart the smoke unit.

@OwenConcorde oh huh! Good to know! Funny how they managed to mess that up. Did BN renumber their engines at one point, or was 9412 always an SD70MAC?

⁠@@cwhall01 It was always on the SD70MAC.

How can I make this looks back in The factory condition? Plz reply​@@cwhall01

@Dronesword123 Very nice! I was actually looking at the K-line models as a possibility for my Reading donar engine. I agree the sounds are great, and (in all the videos I've seen at least) it looks like a very smooth runner. I hadn't noticed the smoke unit, so it's good to know that it performs well too! Thanks!

@DRCRailroard Thanks for the info! I've also installed several ERR cruise commanders and AC commanders in a variety of engines. Unfortunately for this engine I wouldn't be able to just plug in a new ERR RS board because this engine uses the older RailSounds 3/4/5 3-board architecture instead of the newer Legacy RailSounds Lite architecture that the current ERR boards are based on. However, if I put my mind to it, I could probably figure out a plug-and-play harness for it. I wish ERR still sold the old RailSounds 4 boards, but they were discontinued before I knew enough about these electronics to stock up.

​@cwhall01 The ERR boards I'm referring to are Railsounds commander boards. They come equipped with an integrated power supply that supports command and conventional mode with battery backup. The Railsounds commander operates standalone or in conjunction with the full product line of ERR's TMCC upgrades. It comes with a complete sound system, including the speaker, housing, wiring harnesses and instructions. I use them for my conventional engines. Can be I stalled in less than 20 minutes and working.

@DRCRailroard Oh! I didn't know they could work without the ERR command boards! That's great to know! I'll have to consider that now, maybe for some of my postwar engines. Thank you for the info!

@ronalddevine9587 I've got a video coming out about a similar engine soon. I agree there's nothing like a buzzing e-unit and twin AC motors

@@cwhall01 AMEN

Those old fm’s are truly classic! my dad and I on our old layout used to e unit lock 4 of them in forward, and lash em up pulling 50+ car trains. We’d run them off of 1 ZW dedicated only to that track (with an overcurrent fuse on the output) running wide open to get all 4 going.

@Dronesword123 That's wild! I was working on an MPC Era FM Trainmaster (video will be out in a couple weeks) and my little CW-80 is just not powerful enough for it

@@cwhall01 lol sounds about right. Heck, even my single Pullmor 1990’s tmcc Yellowbelly and Commodore Vanderbilt won’t run off of the little CW80’s. They’re a very gutless transformer for running older stuff or any long trains with high current demands or so I’ve found.

@James-Railyard That's awesome! The SGL passenger cars are unbelievably stunning. I've started a long-term side project of making a programmable railsounds board. No clue how far I'll get or if I'll ever finish, but I get the feeling Lionel isn't going to make it easy to transfer their sound programming. PS3 and Legacy both have their pros and cons. PS3 is probably way cheaper of an upgrade than Legacy. It also hopefully wouldn't involve cutting the boiler to fit the encoder ring. But Legacy has great motor control and sounds. If you do decide to go Legacy, let me know and I'll give you the dimensions I used to 3D print the encoder plate.

@@cwhall01 will do! Oh and how local are you to Reading? I’m in the RSME a club near there and I’m in the HO and O gauge groups. I’ll be running my crusader in HO and my G3, SRC 89 and 90, and maybe my RBMN SD50’s at a run day on October 6th and open house days October 19th/20th. One of our 2 rail O scale members has a G class of some kind too.

@James-Railyard I grew up around Reading, but I've moved to a different state more recently. I might swing buy for the open house on the 20th, though, depending on if I have the time. Thank you for letting me know!

@@cwhall01 no worries! We also have another one after that November 30/December 1. We call it the frosty run. Then I spend the month of December running the trains at the Holiday Lights event at Grings Mill park.

@@James-Railyard Good to know! I'll add that to my calendar

@ronalddevine9587 Thank you! My new layout is definitely an improvement, so be sure to check that out. Personally, I love Atlas track. It's durable, realistic, and it helps reduce the noise from the trains running. The downside is that it's very pricy and their snap-switch solenoids like to break. If money wasn't a thing, I'd for sure go Atlas for track and switches (using caboose industries hand throws or a third party remote switch machine), but Gargraves and Ross Custom Switches are very good alternatives at a much more affordable price. Gargraves also uses either plastic or wooden ties depending on the type of track you get (something about regidity for flex track) and that helps quiet down the trains just like Atlas track. Overall, if you have the money go Atlas for track and switches (just be mindful of the switch solenoids), but if you are looking for something nice without breaking the bank, go with Gargraves and Ross Switches. But any option beats the noise and inflexibility of the FastTrack system, in my opinion.

@thefuriousgamer2553 Thank you! It's good to know it's not just the S1 that commonly suffers from that issue. I was honestly very surprised when the issue with your K4 wasn't the problem with this S1

@geraldmosley2195 thank you! I'd have to double-check about magnification, but I know it doesn't have traction tires. I've never had an issue with grip, though. I run a lot of die-cast cars so my trains (although short) are heavy and the T1 doesn't even hesitate when starting out. Sorry for the late reply but I hope this helps

@Greatdome99 I appreciate the input! I put the whole together before testing as a joke. I very rarely get it right the first try, and I'll usually leave it disassembled on later tests. I just think it's funny to put the thing back together, knowing I almost certainly got something wrong. As for the motor angle, I agree with you, the motor should be mounted directly in line with the drive shaft. However, that's just not how lionel designed this engine as far as I can tell. The motor mount is designed to be flush to the frame, making the motor alligned parallel with the frame instead of the driveshaft as desired. If you've worked on one of these, are there supposed to be shims under the rear mounting points of the motor mount to give it the desired angle?

@@CSXrailfan814 😂

@NH1398 Absolutely! Just let me know your email, and I'll send it over this evening. I'll delete the comment with your email as soon as I write it down

@wordenentertainment1997 You'd probably have to do some digging on the 4-6-0 specifically, but I believe the camelbacks, G1s, and the G2s ran most of the commuter train all over the system until the introduction of the G3s. With the G3s in service, the FP9s on the horizon, and declining ridership, I think the camelbacks were assigned to operating the PRSL lines from Philly to Atlantic City and points south. As more FP7s were delivered, eventually even the mighy G3 was assigned to these commuter trains, where they would run until the end of steam on the Reading. So, in short, I think they were. But I have only seen one picture of a Reading camelback in Ocean City circa 1940 so there may be more to it than I know. I can't wait to see your engine in action! I've got a video coming out soon of a Reading L5sc 4-6-0 camelback I'm working on. It won't have the nice sounds that yours has, but it has an accurate Reading tender that was designed and scratch built by me. I'm hoping to have the video out in a couple weeks. I'm waiting on decals right now.

@pnw_oscale Yo! I can't believe you're the man behind it and you watched my video! That's amazing! Your diagrams were super helpful throughout the whole process. I definitely would not have been able to figure out what I was doing without them. Thank you so much for making them and sharing them with the public so people like me can make projects like this possible!

@genemanno1533 I agree, 3rd Rail makes some very beautiful looking models, but their drive systems definitely needed some simplification. Unfortunately, the towers-of-power architecture wouldn't work too well here because it would send a motor straight into the cab. But, if I put some thought into it, I might be able to come up with a mechanically simple design that is low-profile enough to fit under the cab. There are a lot more repairs coming down the pipeline. I don't have a layout right now, so I've got time to get caught up on some projects and help out some friends with problematic locomotives.

I've heard a lot of people have just been buying donar tenders for dirt cheap at local shows, then putting those board (providing they aren't bad too) in the loco they are repairing. Some day, if I manage to learn enough and electronics and start a small online store, I'll try to make replacement boards so people can buy drop-in replacements. But I don't know how far down the road that will be.

Oh! That would be my issue. Thank you for the advice! I'll be sure to disconnect the capacitors next time I go to measure capacitance with my meter.

@DennisPatton-hs2po I'm actually recording part 3 right now. I have to go full legacy to get the Railsounds I want, buy my Reading T1 has ERR and Railsounds 4 and it works great!

Thank you! I think for me I prefer mechanical because I like being able to visualize what is happening. And it is a lot easier to visualize a system when you can see the parts interacting with each other.

I agree! Brushed motors I kind of understand. But the one I designed for school was a permanent magnet based brushless motor, and even though I designed it, I had to heavily lean on my electrical engineering friends to figure out how the thing actually worked.

@@cwhall01 yeah. its far more complicated when the current switching is electric instead of mechanical. it becomes magic at that point.