Just to say, as someone who regularly watches your videos, watching this older one shows how much your setup and quality of vids has improved over the years. Definitely one of the best suspension tech channels to watch with great content. I know what I'm doing and still watch the vids. Great job. Also shows you how much work goes into to making it slick.
First I'd like thank you for your support. it super appreciated. 🙂 And thanks again for such a great compliment. slowly but surely things are moving forward. I still need to figure out a better solution for closeups. Hopefully I solve this soon so I can get more detail for everyone on small parts. We'll get there. Any suggestions to help improve the experience would also be appreciated. I'm always looking for input. thanks again 👍
You are a genius. The way you bleed the shock is way better then RS manual. Especially the part when you bleed the damper shaft by pressing down the IFP.
Thanks. Now if only we can convince the girlfriend of the same, she thinks quite the opposite 😁 Glad the video worked out for you. If you have any questions let me know. I'm still waiting for seal kits to deliver for fox shocks and forks (taking forever for some reason). hopefully get those videos out soon.
Glad to see you liked it. Just an fyi, An updated version of this video will be released soon, which will be brighter and more clear to follow. Stay tuned
I did revalving for my super deluxe, never done that before. Everything went well, I used rear shock piston tuning guide provided by Sram. If shock is not tuned by bike manufactor you may use that Sram guide to put shim in correct order if you accidentally mess up with that shim stack. All thought there is not many full service video guides so this one is great.
Thanks. Glad to hear you found it helpful. To think this was the video that started this journey based on a request from a friend. Just an fyi, I'll be recording a new video on the super deluxe with the current setup. It'll be brighter and clearer to see the process than this one. Hoping to have it uploaded the end of the month.
Thanks for the detailed rebuild bro.. i got mine serviced after 4years.. seeing how easy you did it basing from your video.. more power to your channel..
I’m just learning how to serve my suspension and by following your guide I managed to do a 200 hour service and I added a megneg aswell. Holy shit does it make a day and night difference!
I'm glad hear it all went well for you. It really does make a noticable difference, forks as well. Shock and fork services seems intimidating but it's not all that bad. And once you get used to it both jobs will go by real quick. Once you feel the difference you'll always want that feeling. Enjoy the season myman, and let me know if you have any questions👍
Super glad to hear it worked out for you. I plan on remaking this video with the new setup so its brighter, clearer and cleaner.. I believe this was the video bike video I made, which was to done help a friend. seems like forever ago. time goes by way to quick. feel free to ask any questions
Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still trying to get used to the multitasking process for making these videos. so many details to think about outside of the job itself, so little brain cells to remember it all 😁. Thanks for the help!
Great Job - I search a long time for a detailed piggy back service tutorial because my one is not really working anymore because of the "broken" lock out. Thx!
Thank you very much, and I'm glad you found it handy. I plan on remaking this video with the new setup so everything is brighter and clearer. probably get around to it this fall. let me know if there are any questions. 👍
It's great watching the detail of how this is done. I just wanna say, you worry too much about the words you're using repetatively. I didn't even notice until you pointed it out with the subtitles. 🙂
Thanks you very much for the feedback. I'm used to being judged for stuff like that at my job so it sticks out to me. Funny thing is a couple of co-workers had noticed that I've been using "basically" and "essentially" often lately. This was after I started making the videos. They don't remember me using those words regularly when I present. Typically when I'm working on bikes I'm by myself in my own thoughts doing my thing. When making a video I can literally feel a disconnect between my brain, mouth and hands. Need more practice at it. 😉
Apologies for the delayed response, but life has been a bit out of control these past two months. I'm glad you found the video informative. Take your time, and I'm sure you will successfully service the shock. After you do it once, every time after that will be a breeze. I plan to redo this video with the new setup, so it can be clearer. Unfortunately, I am SUPER behind on making videos due to a bunch of unfortunate events, but I will get back on track soon.
Thank you for the detailed video and taking your time to explain each step. I am planning on doing a digressive rebound tune on mine and this will be very helpful. Glad I don't have to deal with nitrogen charge and a load of proprietary tools like Fox.
Thank you for taking the time to watch it. I plan on making a new version of this video in the next few months so it's brighter, clearer and easier to follow. just an fyi if you plan on performing this service
Excellent. let me know if you have any questions during the process. I'll be working on fox shox and forks (and a bunch of other parts) starting in a couple of weeks when I get back in town. 👍
Hello. Thanks for your disposition. I have a couple of questions just from the video. What are you tightening to 28Nm with the 19mm crowfoot wrench (thought the piston's nut is 12mm)? and, without the IFP removal tool, how else can it be removed?
@@Mestizolo The 19mm or 3/4inch crows foot is used to torque down the nut that connects the main shaft body to the damper reservoir as can be seen starting at the 52 minute mark. The IFP tool isn't really needed. I just bought it to see if it made the job easier. It provide a bit more leverage but you can push it out with your thumb with some force
I'm glad to hear you found it informative. I'm going to remake this video in the new setup so it can be much brighter. I believe this was the first bike video I ever posted and can definitely use a refresh
Another great video , thanks big help. Can’t find # for the IFP tool.the one i found has a 35mm mark. Mine needs the 33mm. Looking for a good set of soft jaws with various hole sizes, were can i find those orange ones you have? Thanks again
Glad to hear the video was helpful. I will be re-recording this particular video soon in the new setup so everything is brighter and clearer. The orange soft jaw I bought on ebay at the following link. Unfortunately prices are higher than when I bought them www.ebay.com/itm/143625990780?var=442598197816 The IFP tool for this shock is the following. Planet cyclery has it on sale for $5 at the moment that a super great price as the tools is $25 list price planetcyclery.com/rockshox-rear-shock-ifp-height-tool-for-setting-ifp-height-super-deluxe-super-deluxe-coil They also have the IFP air fill adapter on a great sale. just and fyi planetcyclery.com/rockshox-rear-shock-air-valve-adapter-tool
I plan to and soon. I had recorded a very thorough video last may on a fox DPS complete rebuild but when editing I noticed the gopro failed me a few times without me realizing it. I ended up scraping the footage. I've been waiting to hit the 200 hour mark on the shock so I can record it again. I'm also planning on recording in a better setup so the videos can be clearer and brighter.
@@SuperMrBrownstone I'm guessing because I'm new to posting videos. I help people in my area with stuff like this when I can but finding time is getting harder so I started making videos to help. I'm definitely going to keep making them. already started buying components for a better studio setup, which should help makes the videos more blight and clear👍
Thanks for the awesome video. It was smooth sailing until I got to the bleed process, and my damper is locking at the bottom position when trying to purge the bubbles. The damn thing feels welded in place. I have to unscrew the damper body for the vacuum to release. Mine is Super Deluxe RC3 if that makes any difference.
Odd, I can't think of anyway it would be different for bleeding. Sounds to me like you have a vacuum going on. Are you sure the ports (Compression/Rebound etc) are fully open? All ports have to be open for the bleed Also, you don't have to fully bottom out the damper when bleeding my way. I add an extra step in order to ensure I get air that might be trapped in the damper body. Funny thing is, I am encoding a Video for a FOX DPX2 as I type this to be release tomorrow. It's the exact same process but more clear (at least I hope it is). Until it gets released, below is a simple instruction set. I bleed those shocks in a 4-step process. First manually bleed the shock head via the reservoir using a rubber glove and rubber band, with no IFP in. when you see only oil flowing at the piston head, block it with your finger, then insert the IFP in the reservoir (Make absolutely sure the Bleed screw is in the IFP), but only about 10 or so mm. Then add oil to the damper body, as we as the piston head, and connect them together. Then use shipping tape to create an extended reservoir (Makes life MUCH easier). Remove the bleed screw and cycle the damper body until you do not see any bubbles in the reservoir. Don't stop until > 5 cycles from the last bubble. When done, insert the bleed screw. Do NOT set the IFP yet. Now prep your IFP tool (what ever you decide to use) and have a t10 Torx (If I remember correctly) connected to the damper body screw. Start setting the IFP and loosen the screw JUST enough for oil to come out, no more than that. When the IFP hit its set point, tighten the damper body screw at the same time, and you're done. Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube Thanks. I took the piggyback apart to ensure the compression valve wasn't causing the lock, and the main damper is still locked in place (with no side canister or lockout valve installed). I followed the zip tie trick for the nut/shim stack but it seems that my issue lies within that part of the system.
@@Abihomeservices I just looked at the sram 2019 - 2022 service guide and schematics to verify and it basically the same design. bleed process is the same. Are you sure the piston assembly is sitting correctly and fully seated? The tolerances are SUPER tight in the piston assembly. it doesn't take much at all for a washer or shim to block a port. were talking the width of a hair can make a difference. can you verify, when you were bleeding, you were able to compress, but it locked when pulling back up (rebounding) or vice versa? Also, If by chance you mixed up the shim stack assembly, don't worry. you can call rockshox and they will give it to you. (they really should provide them online like fox does imo). Unfortunately I can't provide you the shim stack order as its version specific. Once you have the order, its super easy to assemble.
@@zoubtube I do not think I screwed up the shim stack as I used the ol' zip tie trick as you showed. I don't remember seeing open ports on the sides of the main piston...
@@zoubtube So it turns out I'm a dumb ass and thought I had the rebound open, and did not. Once I set that to 'rabbit' it worked like a charm. Thanks again for the great video!
Help! When I get to part 1 of the bleed process it doesn't seem like the oil is getting through the initial canister at all. I press down slowly on the latex glove and the oil runs down the sides. No matter what I do no oil comes out the top. I disassembled and reassembled twice with the same result. Does anyone know what my issue might be?
Apologies for the late response on this. It sounds to me like the controls are in the locked position or the shim stack is in the locked position (assuming you didn't disassemble the shim stack and improperly assemble it. If this is the case, let me know and I can probably get you the proper shim stack order). Did you remove the compression piston mechanism when servicing the shock? If yes, are you sure it's sitting correctly in its mount when re-installing it? Did you test the knob to make sure the compression piston is working as it should? Did you remove and install the IFP stack using a zip tie, as seen in the video? If yes, are you sure it's sitting correctly after installing it again? Did you overtighten the nut that holds it down? If no to the above, did you disassemble the shim stack after you removed it? If yes, are you sure you assembled it correctly? Sorry for all the questions, but it's the only way I can get a better idea of what's causing your issue. Let me know, thanks
Hello. I was told by my bike shop ,here in Connecticut, that regular air for damper would be ok in a dryer climate in higher elevations, like CO or UT. But we need nitrogen around here because of moisture in the air. What is your opinion about this? They wanna charge me almost 600 dollars for 200 hours service for both fork and shock.They do have nitrogen set up in their shop
Great question. I understand where they are coming from, but I have to say that they are off on this. Yes, oxygen does hold moisture and nitrogen doesn't (and I'm assuming you mean nitrogen, not hydrogen, or else you'd be riding around with a potential mushroom cloud blowing over Connecticut 😁), and nitrogen does have a higher heat capacity. BUT, this will only be an issue in very hot environments and/or when riding very long, aggressive runs. In these types of conditions, the moisture in the air can start to steam, which can create added pressure and cause inconsistencies. Also, nitrogen molecules are a bit larger than air, so when it heats up, it won't seep out as easily as air. Ultimately, this isn't an issue in average or cold climate environments, like where we live. Both rockshox and fox state that using air is fine. Does nitrogen have its advantages? Sure, but it's a low percentage of people who will leverage it. The most important thing is to regularly service your suspension. What forks and shocks do you have? If your bike shop is trying to charge you $600 to service your shock and fork, I'd just send it to rockshox or fox, it'll save you ~$200 at a minimum.
@zoubtube Yes. I meant nitrogen, not hydrogen. (:. In my opinion, 600 dollars service for a bike almost justifies searching for a used fork and shock on eBay every 200 hours, instead of paying this much for service. Thank you
Thank you for watching it and just an fyi, I will be re-recording this service very soon in the new setup so its bright and clear. It should make it a bit easier to follow 👍
Good video I enjoy working on my own bike. Would you recommend doing a 200hr service every 50hrs without doin new seals. So just new oil and grease every 50hrs
You could, but personally, unless you feel your shock running softer than typical or making squishy noises out of nowhere you really shouldn't have to open that damper that often. You can service the air can without changing the seals, but be sure to clean the outside of the shock well before removing the can and pay extra attention when cleaning the wiper seal and split rings to make sure no debris slips in. 👍 Let me know if you have other questions.
Here is a link to an updated video on servicing this shock. It was done in my new setup, so it's much brighter and easier to follow ua-cam.com/video/SRPUzNW__LM/v-deo.html Also, you technically don't need that tool, as you will see in the updated video. I would consider it a luxury at best. I don't remember the thread type at the moment, but I'll try and pass by the hardware store to get it. Do me a favor; I don't see responses to comments I responded to on UA-cam. I recently noticed this, and I'm not sure why this is the case. If I haven't responded to this with the thread size in the next couple of days, send me a new comment (which I can see for sure) to remind me. Thanks
Would it work ok if you used 0w-30 oil for the air can instead? And put a little bit more so there's better long lasting lubrication for the stanchion seal? Thanks for the video, this helps a lot!
I've never tried it in a super deluxe so I can't say how the shock would react. If its all you have right now, give it a shot. it's not like it will damage anything. If it feels like the shock is to sticky, just re-lube the air can, which is quick job. If you try it please update people on the experience. 👍
@@zoubtube Will do, just waiting for the shock to arrive and will load it up with tokens for the positive chamber and take off the one from the negative chamber (if there is any) haha. My current shock is a Fox Float X2 Performance and I hate it, can't service it myself and air gets into the damper too easily.
@@existenz2150 I'll be releasing a float X2 service guide tomorrow that might help you with the service. Agree with the air leaks on that shock though,
Hi again zoub! I made a same shock,what you think when I made a bleed part 3 for ifp chamber,my shaft body comes up by itself? I'm pushing down and it comes up? But no bubbles at full extension? What I did wrong?? Thanks again!
IT sounds like you didn't remove the bleed screw. Make sure to the bleed screw is removed from the IFP in step 3. very important you do this or the bleed won't work. BTW. I just finished editing an updated video for this shock in my new setup. so everything will be MUCH brighter and clear than this one. It should be uploaded very soon. let me know how it goes!
@@zoubtube Hi zoub! Thanks for the answer,but I made it three times and bleed screw was out, because I have to take all air bubbles from system. I made shock to the end,and it works normally. It a super deluxe select, without lock opportunity,just rebound setting. Let's see will it works normally after some ride. Ah yes sounds amazing that me got new video☺️👌🏻 this shock very popular and pretty nice. Waiting for it🙏🏻 Thanks again!
@@TheSant1k Great job! 🦾I'm glad to hear it all worked out. The next time you service this shock, it's going to be SO much easier. Before you know it, you'll be servicing it every year. The updated video for this shock should be uploaded in about two weeks. It will be much easier to follow. I will be uploading a 2024 Deluxe Ultimate very soon as well. Now go out there and have fun! 👍
Ok. Am about to lose my shit. Serviced my shock, put it all back together. Now when I try to reinflate, it loses all air when I remove the shock pump. Have tried two pumps, two valve cores. Removed and reinstalled the valve cores several times. Same thing. Yes, I know how to remove the shock pump. Yes the cores are tightly snugged down. Anyone got any ideas.
"Am about to lose my shit" sounds to me like you're doing great! I lost my shit a LONG time ago and haven't found it since! 😁 Now, I'm going to ask this, Just to be sure. Are you removing the shock pump from the adapter first, or removing the adapter from the shock first? Are you using after market Schrader valves? If yes, do you know if the PSI meets or exceeds the PSI for the IFP chamber? Schrader valves are rated for different PSI specs. If the above is not an issue, is it is possible that you scratched or damaged the threads in the cap? Not much can go wrong here. Above are the most likely culprits. let me know
Glad to hear the video was informative for you. I recently posted an updated video for servicing this shock. it much brighter and clearer. Below is a link. Hopefully it helps. Thanks for the comment. ua-cam.com/video/MD9syceK2D8/v-deo.html
@@zoubtube Hi there- so im knee deep in it; and im confused about the two largest diameter o rings for the air can- which goes on the inside (top) of the can and which where the can screws into the top (exterior). (thiner one on inside / thicker outside? I couldn't tell from the video... Thanks !
@@robertnunezsf The thicker o'ring goes on the inside of the eyelet near the base just below the threads you will see a seat for it in there. The thinner o'ring goes on the outside of the air can just below the threads.
ugh- one more- i buttoned up the can before i realized more to replace inside; do you kniow what kind of oil i can use for the can? (the oil in the 2oz plastic in the kit) ...
To remove the air canister, not necessary but it will make life easier and help avoid damaging or scratching/scuffing the air canister. there's not much room to grip when using a normal or adjusting wrenches so a cone style wrench (like the RS wrench in the vid) would be a safer bet. just take your time and be careful if your going to use a adjustable wrench and make sure you have solid grip. the metal on the canister is fairly soft.
@@michaeljlr8646 the Super Deluxe 2018/19 RC3 A1 is the shock that was used in the video. I will update the description to point this out as I mentioned it was a 2017. The bike is a 2017 that I bought in 2018. My bad. just an fyi, I saw that planet cyclery has the wrench in stock and selling it a bit less than everyone else at the moment. here's the link if this helps. let me know if you have other questions or concerns. planetcyclery.com/rockshox-31mm-flat-wrench-for-vivid-air-reservoir-tls-00615?gclid=CjwKCAjwwdWVBhA4EiwAjcYJEC3EBPNaXaSxFKrCqLNTrLDsTlPZ1cZM3r7VCoOhzMVxuLZutdR9PhoCWGYQAvD_BwE
Thanks for giving it a shot. it was pretty much my first video, which only has a hero 10 and a recessed ceiling light. I plan on updating my older shock and fork videos with the new setup, which has much more lighting. My goal with the videos is to focus on the job from a first person view, as if you were working on product, hence the hand shots. I have no intention of making them about me or trying to be a personality. If you have any questions feel free to ask though
@zoubtube watching the Fox attempt x3. It is much improved. I can follow it and cross reference to manual easily. I can "see" the part you are working on now.
@@ravet3254 This whole thing has been a big learning curve for me to say the least! The bike videos started with a buddy asking to make a video to rebuild this shock. So I took a gopro and made a video for him. Ironically, I started the channel because my mom was bugging me to see my scuba diving videos. Now all I make is bike maintenance videos and my mom is back to bugging me to post scuba videos. There's no winning I tell ya! 😁
@ZoubTube hell yeah dog this video was my bible last week. I can't believe sram doesn't have a tutorial of their own. Too busy making dumb ass "revolutionary" drivetrains and seatposts that you have to bleed every 3 months
Just to say, as someone who regularly watches your videos, watching this older one shows how much your setup and quality of vids has improved over the years. Definitely one of the best suspension tech channels to watch with great content. I know what I'm doing and still watch the vids. Great job. Also shows you how much work goes into to making it slick.
First I'd like thank you for your support. it super appreciated. 🙂 And thanks again for such a great compliment. slowly but surely things are moving forward. I still need to figure out a better solution for closeups. Hopefully I solve this soon so I can get more detail for everyone on small parts. We'll get there. Any suggestions to help improve the experience would also be appreciated. I'm always looking for input. thanks again 👍
You are a genius. The way you bleed the shock is way better then RS manual. Especially the part when you bleed the damper shaft by pressing down the IFP.
Thanks. Now if only we can convince the girlfriend of the same, she thinks quite the opposite 😁 Glad the video worked out for you. If you have any questions let me know. I'm still waiting for seal kits to deliver for fox shocks and forks (taking forever for some reason). hopefully get those videos out soon.
Amazing job! Thanks and cheers from Czech Republic :)
Glad to see you liked it. Just an fyi, An updated version of this video will be released soon, which will be brighter and more clear to follow. Stay tuned
I did revalving for my super deluxe, never done that before. Everything went well, I used rear shock piston tuning guide provided by Sram. If shock is not tuned by bike manufactor you may use that Sram guide to put shim in correct order if you accidentally mess up with that shim stack. All thought there is not many full service video guides so this one is great.
Funny you should mention this. I believe the next video scheduled to release next week is a compression stack re-tune guide for a rockshox deluxe.
Great video. You've inspired me to service my rs super deluxe rtr too.
Thanks. Glad to hear you found it helpful. To think this was the video that started this journey based on a request from a friend. Just an fyi, I'll be recording a new video on the super deluxe with the current setup. It'll be brighter and clearer to see the process than this one. Hoping to have it uploaded the end of the month.
Thanks for the detailed rebuild bro.. i got mine serviced after 4years.. seeing how easy you did it basing from your video.. more power to your channel..
Really glad to hear it helped you out. I'll be posting more rockshox and fox rebuild videos now that life is getting back to normal.
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this video!
Your shim stack holder (tie wrap) and bleed technique are genius!
👍
Super glad to hear it worked out for you and thanks for the nice comments. More videos to come.
I’m just learning how to serve my suspension and by following your guide I managed to do a 200 hour service and I added a megneg aswell. Holy shit does it make a day and night difference!
I'm glad hear it all went well for you. It really does make a noticable difference, forks as well. Shock and fork services seems intimidating but it's not all that bad. And once you get used to it both jobs will go by real quick. Once you feel the difference you'll always want that feeling. Enjoy the season myman, and let me know if you have any questions👍
Super awesome video. You' saved me much pain in trying to figure it out from the manual.
Super glad to hear it worked out for you. I plan on remaking this video with the new setup so its brighter, clearer and cleaner.. I believe this was the video bike video I made, which was to done help a friend. seems like forever ago. time goes by way to quick. feel free to ask any questions
Thanks! Made my day! minor note: not 1 oz but 1 ml in 15-50 oil pack.
Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still trying to get used to the multitasking process for making these videos. so many details to think about outside of the job itself, so little brain cells to remember it all 😁. Thanks for the help!
Great Job - I search a long time for a detailed piggy back service tutorial because my one is not really working anymore because of the "broken" lock out. Thx!
really glad to hear it worked out for you. More videos to come
Great video man. Made it look easier than the manual! Love the zip tie trick.
Thank you very much, and I'm glad you found it handy. I plan on remaking this video with the new setup so everything is brighter and clearer. probably get around to it this fall. let me know if there are any questions. 👍
It's great watching the detail of how this is done. I just wanna say, you worry too much about the words you're using repetatively. I didn't even notice until you pointed it out with the subtitles. 🙂
Thanks you very much for the feedback. I'm used to being judged for stuff like that at my job so it sticks out to me. Funny thing is a couple of co-workers had noticed that I've been using "basically" and "essentially" often lately. This was after I started making the videos. They don't remember me using those words regularly when I present. Typically when I'm working on bikes I'm by myself in my own thoughts doing my thing. When making a video I can literally feel a disconnect between my brain, mouth and hands. Need more practice at it. 😉
Great video. Your instruction is clear and precise. This and the service manual made me feel confident every step of the way!
I'm really glad to hear this helped you. More videos to come. until then, happy holidays
Great video . I need to service piggyback and this is just what I was looking for. Thank you for sharing!
Apologies for the delayed response, but life has been a bit out of control these past two months. I'm glad you found the video informative. Take your time, and I'm sure you will successfully service the shock. After you do it once, every time after that will be a breeze. I plan to redo this video with the new setup, so it can be clearer. Unfortunately, I am SUPER behind on making videos due to a bunch of unfortunate events, but I will get back on track soon.
@@zoubtube Be well and hope things calm down for you. Peace.
Brother Thank you!
Glad it worked for you. more to come.
Thank you for the detailed video and taking your time to explain each step. I am planning on doing a digressive rebound tune on mine and this will be very helpful. Glad I don't have to deal with nitrogen charge and a load of proprietary tools like Fox.
Glad to hear that it might help you with the process. let me know if you have any questions and enjoy the rebuild
What a great video, thanks a lot. Greetings from Austria!
Thank you very much sir. More to come. Currently working on the Fox equivalent.
Fantastic! Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to watch it. I plan on making a new version of this video in the next few months so it's brighter, clearer and easier to follow. just an fyi if you plan on performing this service
Thanks for this. I'm getting ready to service my shock after 2 years of use. A grip2 damper service video would also be nice. Cheers!
Excellent. let me know if you have any questions during the process. I'll be working on fox shox and forks (and a bunch of other parts) starting in a couple of weeks when I get back in town. 👍
Hello. Thanks for your disposition. I have a couple of questions just from the video. What are you tightening to 28Nm with the 19mm crowfoot wrench (thought the piston's nut is 12mm)? and, without the IFP removal tool, how else can it be removed?
@@Mestizolo The 19mm or 3/4inch crows foot is used to torque down the nut that connects the main shaft body to the damper reservoir as can be seen starting at the 52 minute mark. The IFP tool isn't really needed. I just bought it to see if it made the job easier. It provide a bit more leverage but you can push it out with your thumb with some force
Very good video ! You just made my life a lot easier 😁
Thanks for the comment. Glad you found it helpful. I plan to redo this video using the new setup so everything can be clearier. 👍
So good, thanks for taking the time to show this!
Thank you for your guide... 🔝
I'm glad to hear you found it informative. I'm going to remake this video in the new setup so it can be much brighter. I believe this was the first bike video I ever posted and can definitely use a refresh
Another great video , thanks big help. Can’t find # for the IFP tool.the one i found has a 35mm mark. Mine needs the 33mm. Looking for a good set of soft jaws with various hole sizes, were can i find those orange ones you have? Thanks again
Glad to hear the video was helpful. I will be re-recording this particular video soon in the new setup so everything is brighter and clearer.
The orange soft jaw I bought on ebay at the following link. Unfortunately prices are higher than when I bought them www.ebay.com/itm/143625990780?var=442598197816
The IFP tool for this shock is the following. Planet cyclery has it on sale for $5 at the moment that a super great price as the tools is $25 list price planetcyclery.com/rockshox-rear-shock-ifp-height-tool-for-setting-ifp-height-super-deluxe-super-deluxe-coil
They also have the IFP air fill adapter on a great sale. just and fyi
planetcyclery.com/rockshox-rear-shock-air-valve-adapter-tool
Great job! Super helpful
thanks. more to come
Sehr gut 👍👍
Thank you very much.
Great video. Would be great if you could do the Fox DPX2 :)
I plan to and soon. I had recorded a very thorough video last may on a fox DPS complete rebuild but when editing I noticed the gopro failed me a few times without me realizing it. I ended up scraping the footage. I've been waiting to hit the 200 hour mark on the shock so I can record it again. I'm also planning on recording in a better setup so the videos can be clearer and brighter.
@@zoubtube I accidentally stumbled upon your video. The stupid YT algorithm does not even show it if you type in rockshox super deluxe service
@@SuperMrBrownstone I'm guessing because I'm new to posting videos. I help people in my area with stuff like this when I can but finding time is getting harder so I started making videos to help. I'm definitely going to keep making them. already started buying components for a better studio setup, which should help makes the videos more blight and clear👍
Thanks for the awesome video. It was smooth sailing until I got to the bleed process, and my damper is locking at the bottom position when trying to purge the bubbles. The damn thing feels welded in place. I have to unscrew the damper body for the vacuum to release. Mine is Super Deluxe RC3 if that makes any difference.
Odd, I can't think of anyway it would be different for bleeding. Sounds to me like you have a vacuum going on. Are you sure the ports (Compression/Rebound etc) are fully open? All ports have to be open for the bleed
Also, you don't have to fully bottom out the damper when bleeding my way. I add an extra step in order to ensure I get air that might be trapped in the damper body.
Funny thing is, I am encoding a Video for a FOX DPX2 as I type this to be release tomorrow. It's the exact same process but more clear (at least I hope it is). Until it gets released, below is a simple instruction set.
I bleed those shocks in a 4-step process. First manually bleed the shock head via the reservoir using a rubber glove and rubber band, with no IFP in. when you see only oil flowing at the piston head, block it with your finger, then insert the IFP in the reservoir (Make absolutely sure the Bleed screw is in the IFP), but only about 10 or so mm.
Then add oil to the damper body, as we as the piston head, and connect them together.
Then use shipping tape to create an extended reservoir (Makes life MUCH easier). Remove the bleed screw and cycle the damper body until you do not see any bubbles in the reservoir. Don't stop until > 5 cycles from the last bubble. When done, insert the bleed screw. Do NOT set the IFP yet.
Now prep your IFP tool (what ever you decide to use) and have a t10 Torx (If I remember correctly) connected to the damper body screw. Start setting the IFP and loosen the screw JUST enough for oil to come out, no more than that. When the IFP hit its set point, tighten the damper body screw at the same time, and you're done.
Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube Thanks. I took the piggyback apart to ensure the compression valve wasn't causing the lock, and the main damper is still locked in place (with no side canister or lockout valve installed).
I followed the zip tie trick for the nut/shim stack but it seems that my issue lies within that part of the system.
@@Abihomeservices I just looked at the sram 2019 - 2022 service guide and schematics to verify and it basically the same design. bleed process is the same. Are you sure the piston assembly is sitting correctly and fully seated? The tolerances are SUPER tight in the piston assembly. it doesn't take much at all for a washer or shim to block a port. were talking the width of a hair can make a difference.
can you verify, when you were bleeding, you were able to compress, but it locked when pulling back up (rebounding) or vice versa?
Also, If by chance you mixed up the shim stack assembly, don't worry. you can call rockshox and they will give it to you. (they really should provide them online like fox does imo). Unfortunately I can't provide you the shim stack order as its version specific. Once you have the order, its super easy to assemble.
@@zoubtube I do not think I screwed up the shim stack as I used the ol' zip tie trick as you showed.
I don't remember seeing open ports on the sides of the main piston...
@@zoubtube So it turns out I'm a dumb ass and thought I had the rebound open, and did not. Once I set that to 'rabbit' it worked like a charm. Thanks again for the great video!
Help! When I get to part 1 of the bleed process it doesn't seem like the oil is getting through the initial canister at all. I press down slowly on the latex glove and the oil runs down the sides. No matter what I do no oil comes out the top. I disassembled and reassembled twice with the same result. Does anyone know what my issue might be?
Apologies for the late response on this. It sounds to me like the controls are in the locked position or the shim stack is in the locked position (assuming you didn't disassemble the shim stack and improperly assemble it. If this is the case, let me know and I can probably get you the proper shim stack order).
Did you remove the compression piston mechanism when servicing the shock? If yes, are you sure it's sitting correctly in its mount when re-installing it? Did you test the knob to make sure the compression piston is working as it should?
Did you remove and install the IFP stack using a zip tie, as seen in the video? If yes, are you sure it's sitting correctly after installing it again? Did you overtighten the nut that holds it down?
If no to the above, did you disassemble the shim stack after you removed it? If yes, are you sure you assembled it correctly?
Sorry for all the questions, but it's the only way I can get a better idea of what's causing your issue. Let me know, thanks
Hello. I was told by my bike shop ,here in Connecticut, that regular air for damper would be ok in a dryer climate in higher elevations, like CO or UT. But we need nitrogen around here because of moisture in the air. What is your opinion about this? They wanna charge me almost 600 dollars for 200 hours service for both fork and shock.They do have nitrogen set up in their shop
Great question. I understand where they are coming from, but I have to say that they are off on this. Yes, oxygen does hold moisture and nitrogen doesn't (and I'm assuming you mean nitrogen, not hydrogen, or else you'd be riding around with a potential mushroom cloud blowing over Connecticut 😁), and nitrogen does have a higher heat capacity. BUT, this will only be an issue in very hot environments and/or when riding very long, aggressive runs. In these types of conditions, the moisture in the air can start to steam, which can create added pressure and cause inconsistencies. Also, nitrogen molecules are a bit larger than air, so when it heats up, it won't seep out as easily as air. Ultimately, this isn't an issue in average or cold climate environments, like where we live. Both rockshox and fox state that using air is fine. Does nitrogen have its advantages? Sure, but it's a low percentage of people who will leverage it. The most important thing is to regularly service your suspension.
What forks and shocks do you have? If your bike shop is trying to charge you $600 to service your shock and fork, I'd just send it to rockshox or fox, it'll save you ~$200 at a minimum.
@zoubtube Yes. I meant nitrogen, not hydrogen. (:. In my opinion, 600 dollars service for a bike almost justifies searching for a used fork and shock on eBay every 200 hours, instead of paying this much for service. Thank you
Thank you!!!
Thank you for watching it and just an fyi, I will be re-recording this service very soon in the new setup so its bright and clear. It should make it a bit easier to follow 👍
Good video I enjoy working on my own bike. Would you recommend doing a 200hr service every 50hrs without doin new seals. So just new oil and grease every 50hrs
You could, but personally, unless you feel your shock running softer than typical or making squishy noises out of nowhere you really shouldn't have to open that damper that often. You can service the air can without changing the seals, but be sure to clean the outside of the shock well before removing the can and pay extra attention when cleaning the wiper seal and split rings to make sure no debris slips in. 👍 Let me know if you have other questions.
28:08 any ideas what size thread the ifp puller tool has please - they are quite expensive so looking at alternatives
Here is a link to an updated video on servicing this shock. It was done in my new setup, so it's much brighter and easier to follow
ua-cam.com/video/SRPUzNW__LM/v-deo.html
Also, you technically don't need that tool, as you will see in the updated video. I would consider it a luxury at best. I don't remember the thread type at the moment, but I'll try and pass by the hardware store to get it. Do me a favor; I don't see responses to comments I responded to on UA-cam. I recently noticed this, and I'm not sure why this is the case. If I haven't responded to this with the thread size in the next couple of days, send me a new comment (which I can see for sure) to remind me. Thanks
Good vid nice work.
Would it work ok if you used 0w-30 oil for the air can instead? And put a little bit more so there's better long lasting lubrication for the stanchion seal? Thanks for the video, this helps a lot!
I've never tried it in a super deluxe so I can't say how the shock would react. If its all you have right now, give it a shot. it's not like it will damage anything. If it feels like the shock is to sticky, just re-lube the air can, which is quick job. If you try it please update people on the experience. 👍
@@zoubtube Will do, just waiting for the shock to arrive and will load it up with tokens for the positive chamber and take off the one from the negative chamber (if there is any) haha. My current shock is a Fox Float X2 Performance and I hate it, can't service it myself and air gets into the damper too easily.
@@existenz2150 I'll be releasing a float X2 service guide tomorrow that might help you with the service. Agree with the air leaks on that shock though,
@@zoubtube Cool, will check it out, thanks!
Hi again zoub! I made a same shock,what you think when I made a bleed part 3 for ifp chamber,my shaft body comes up by itself? I'm pushing down and it comes up? But no bubbles at full extension? What I did wrong?? Thanks again!
IT sounds like you didn't remove the bleed screw. Make sure to the bleed screw is removed from the IFP in step 3. very important you do this or the bleed won't work. BTW. I just finished editing an updated video for this shock in my new setup. so everything will be MUCH brighter and clear than this one. It should be uploaded very soon. let me know how it goes!
@@zoubtube Hi zoub! Thanks for the answer,but I made it three times and bleed screw was out, because I have to take all air bubbles from system. I made shock to the end,and it works normally. It a super deluxe select, without lock opportunity,just rebound setting. Let's see will it works normally after some ride. Ah yes sounds amazing that me got new video☺️👌🏻 this shock very popular and pretty nice. Waiting for it🙏🏻 Thanks again!
@@TheSant1k Great job! 🦾I'm glad to hear it all worked out. The next time you service this shock, it's going to be SO much easier. Before you know it, you'll be servicing it every year.
The updated video for this shock should be uploaded in about two weeks. It will be much easier to follow. I will be uploading a 2024 Deluxe Ultimate very soon as well.
Now go out there and have fun! 👍
Ok. Am about to lose my shit. Serviced my shock, put it all back together. Now when I try to reinflate, it loses all air when I remove the shock pump. Have tried two pumps, two valve cores. Removed and reinstalled the valve cores several times. Same thing. Yes, I know how to remove the shock pump. Yes the cores are tightly snugged down. Anyone got any ideas.
"Am about to lose my shit" sounds to me like you're doing great! I lost my shit a LONG time ago and haven't found it since! 😁
Now, I'm going to ask this, Just to be sure. Are you removing the shock pump from the adapter first, or removing the adapter from the shock first?
Are you using after market Schrader valves? If yes, do you know if the PSI meets or exceeds the PSI for the IFP chamber? Schrader valves are rated for different PSI specs.
If the above is not an issue, is it is possible that you scratched or damaged the threads in the cap?
Not much can go wrong here. Above are the most likely culprits. let me know
@@zoubtube I was being a numpty. Had reinstalled the tokens wrong, so when I installed the valve they were pushing it open from the inside 🙃
awesomeness...
Glad to hear the video was informative for you. I recently posted an updated video for servicing this shock. it much brighter and clearer. Below is a link. Hopefully it helps. Thanks for the comment.
ua-cam.com/video/MD9syceK2D8/v-deo.html
@@zoubtube Hi there- so im knee deep in it; and im confused about the two largest diameter o rings for the air can- which goes on the inside (top) of the can and which where the can screws into the top (exterior). (thiner one on inside / thicker outside? I couldn't tell from the video... Thanks !
@@robertnunezsf The thicker o'ring goes on the inside of the eyelet near the base just below the threads you will see a seat for it in there. The thinner o'ring goes on the outside of the air can just below the threads.
@@zoubtube they had it backwards! thanks!!
ugh- one more- i buttoned up the can before i realized more to replace inside; do you kniow what kind of oil i can use for the can? (the oil in the 2oz plastic in the kit) ...
hi there, thanks for this vid, is the 31mm RS mandatory or will an adjusting wrench be ok?
To remove the air canister, not necessary but it will make life easier and help avoid damaging or scratching/scuffing the air canister. there's not much room to grip when using a normal or adjusting wrenches so a cone style wrench (like the RS wrench in the vid) would be a safer bet. just take your time and be careful if your going to use a adjustable wrench and make sure you have solid grip. the metal on the canister is fairly soft.
@@zoubtube thanks man. I will order it then. It’s back ordered so I will wait. I have a super deluxe 2018/19 RCT A1. This process is the same right?
@@zoubtube I really appreciate this vid. It’s the only legit one I can find online. :)
@@michaeljlr8646 the Super Deluxe 2018/19 RC3 A1 is the shock that was used in the video. I will update the description to point this out as I mentioned it was a 2017. The bike is a 2017 that I bought in 2018. My bad. just an fyi, I saw that planet cyclery has the wrench in stock and selling it a bit less than everyone else at the moment. here's the link if this helps. let me know if you have other questions or concerns.
planetcyclery.com/rockshox-31mm-flat-wrench-for-vivid-air-reservoir-tls-00615?gclid=CjwKCAjwwdWVBhA4EiwAjcYJEC3EBPNaXaSxFKrCqLNTrLDsTlPZ1cZM3r7VCoOhzMVxuLZutdR9PhoCWGYQAvD_BwE
@@zoubtube you can see if it fits without taking anything apart. and yeah most dont fit :(
Sorry , stopped watching - all I seen was hands in latex gloves half the time. Using the manual.
Thanks for giving it a shot. it was pretty much my first video, which only has a hero 10 and a recessed ceiling light. I plan on updating my older shock and fork videos with the new setup, which has much more lighting. My goal with the videos is to focus on the job from a first person view, as if you were working on product, hence the hand shots. I have no intention of making them about me or trying to be a personality. If you have any questions feel free to ask though
@zoubtube watching the Fox attempt x3. It is much improved. I can follow it and cross reference to manual easily. I can "see" the part you are working on now.
@@ravet3254 This whole thing has been a big learning curve for me to say the least! The bike videos started with a buddy asking to make a video to rebuild this shock. So I took a gopro and made a video for him. Ironically, I started the channel because my mom was bugging me to see my scuba diving videos. Now all I make is bike maintenance videos and my mom is back to bugging me to post scuba videos. There's no winning I tell ya! 😁
FYI sram says to use a fancy vice to clamp the shaft, but you don't need it. That piece doesn't rotate.
thanks for the heads up. Any advice that can help more people affordably maintain and enjoy their bike is great appreciated 👍
@ZoubTube hell yeah dog this video was my bible last week. I can't believe sram doesn't have a tutorial of their own. Too busy making dumb ass "revolutionary" drivetrains and seatposts that you have to bleed every 3 months