A lot of traditionalists in the home brew game, and many would deny or contradict your findings because they've read otherwise somewhere, or 'so and so' said... But this hobby needs some crazy experimentation, and i applaud that you are actually trying different theories out and sharing your experiences. More people need to let go of the rule book. Let's see what we can really create.
When I started brewing I also listened and repeated. But after a while I found out that it was more fun in experiment for myself. And I'm learning tons from that. And I've found that so much things that people where saying didn't add up.
DrHans Brewery Thank you for your advice. I have now finished my first pressure ferment, following your guidance in my all rounder and it’s been amazing. Used a two pack kit called Mad Millie larger from Brew 2 Bottle, with Mangrove Jacks M54 yeast, which I have now done a couple of times in my normal FV bucket. Started fermentation in the All Rounder, but didn’t set the Spunding valve correctly and woke up next morning with it at 35 PSI !!!!. Decreased the pressure to 15PSI and caused a major foam up. Anyway carried on and it fermented like a steam train. 6 days and hit my expected FG. On the seventh day the FG dropped a further 4 points. Cold crashed and added fining for two day, clear as a bell. Three days carbonating at 15PSI, 5C and it tasted absolutely wonderful and noticeably better than my previous traditional brewing method. 12 days to brew and drink is incredible. I have shared a few pints with a couple of brewing friends who find it amazing and said they would not have believed it was done in 12 days had they not have witnessed it themselves. Thank you so much for your direct support and advice, as well as the great videos you produce. This is wonderful.
Great to see that you're active in the comments answering questions , you're videos have inspired me to get into pressure fermentation, I'll try it with a keg since they're pretty cheap to buy in my part of the world. Thanks Dr!
I've tried pressure fermenting before with mixed results based on articles and blog posts. I'm glad you made a more comprehensive video detailing how you apply it to your beers. I will be doing this on my next NEIPA. Cheers!
Hey Dr Hans, Love all your content 👍 I have been pressure fermenting and kegging for a few months now and kept getting a bitter flavour (metallic) in my beer, I have reconditioned kegs and after my first couple of beers had a metallic taste, so when I kicked the keg I checked the inside of the kegs and when cleaning were coming out with grey dirt on the cloths (machine oil) So cleaned with sodium percarbonate washed through disassembled and used bar keepers friend on everything washed out and let passivate for 3 days before sanitising with chemsan. This made a big difference but was still getting some off flavours and have been trying lots of different things, deep clean fermzilla taps, lines etc. Then finally yesterday I think i have got to the bottom of it :- Carbonic bite, my beer didn’t seem over carbed but after venting pressure when warm and dropping my serving pressure Down to 6psi the flavour has gone! I have been fermenting at pressure for the style and temp from dr Hans carbonation calculator and then close transferring and bring psi back up to the carbonation chart level, last beer was a golden ale so 2.2vol at 25psi. I would then leave for a week or 2 to condition at room temp then put in kegerator and attaching to co2 at 12psi serving pressure. I can’t see where I have been going wrong? Is it due to fermenting under pressure I don’t need such a high serving pressure or is it the amount of co2 I’m fermenting at? Also my regulator is a brand new odl regulator not cheap, so can’t see it being out. Any help greatly appreciated
If you have a spare Cornelius keg, you're already good to go. All you need is a SPUNDit (or similar), and a way to limit the trub transfer from the fermenting keg to the serving keg. I use a stainless hop canister around my dip tube. During primary, vent the ferment CO2 to the serving keg, and put the spunding valve on the serving keg. This creates a pressurized system between the *two* kegs, and purges the serving keg with CO2 without any need for a CO2 tank. When the beer is finished, hook up the two kegs with jumpers, and transfer by venting a little pressure from the serving keg, which establishes a siphon from the fermenter. Wish I could post pics...
morse ok Thank You, I bought floating kit for fermzilla, so silicone tub is going on precut by me keg dip tube but anyway I will notify you when I transfer my Märzen beer. Best Regards
I watched this video yesterday, 24 hours after putting a NEIPA into my Fermzilla. I've always been wary of high pressures due to being told that pressure can stress yeast etc. Well I decided to be brave & after doing a biotransformation dry hop, I bumped my temps right up & increased pressure to 20psi. The yeast is GOING CRAZY now, definitely keen to see how it turns out.
Cool, you will se that you wont have a problem. I have been fermenting at 35psi for years. Havent found a yeast strain yet who couldnt handle that. Let me know how it turns out for you.
If you think about the large fermentation tanks in some commercial breweries, they can be more than 20m high. Now I think they don't pressurize them from the top but for every meter of water you get 0,1 Bar. So at the bottom of the tank there will be 2 Bar or possibly more depending on the worts gravity and tank hight. And those Breweries don't get unfinished fermentations or such. So from that perspective I think your pressure range might be high for a home brewer but it shouldn't be a problem. I've ordered myself some pressure fermentation vessels so can't wait to start experimenting myself. And brew high pressure lagers even in the summertime.
I am a brewer coming very late to the party, but I really like this comment. YES! If the yeast can not thrive under pressure, the bottom of the tank would be a dead zone. I have watched my secondaries and it looked like the yeast blobs were taking a ride with the CO2 bubbles to the top, to keep the organic circulation going. What if the pressure (at the bottom) stopped the yeast from doing that? If the circulation stops, how do the yeast and sugars keep working together? If one could magically freeze time, the yeast would have to stop because the nearby sugars would be used up. I think this supports the idea that circulation is absolutely necessary, and that a yeast that can not tolerate pressure will not survive the evolution game. Well, at least when the game is breweries with large tanks. But I think the above poster gave good information on that. THANKS, EVERYONE!
Great videos, Sir... You were cautious not to over carbonate. Looks like you corresponded your maximum fermentation pressures and temperatures with CO2 volume chart per specific beer type. I'll be attempting to pressure ferment on my next batch, would the carbonation chart be a reliable guide?
What im understanding from your video is that if you want properly carbonated beer at the end of fermentation than you need to ferment hotter with higher pressure, is that right? I ask because i bought the gear to do it and the shop i bought it from said 10psi for ales and 15psi for lagers, they also said you can end up with carbonated beer but that looks unlikely at only 10psi! Also their spunding valve only goes to 15psi which is a bummer!
The lower the temp the less pressure you need to use. But at 15psi you would end your fermentation at 8C for around 2.4 volumes. Use a beer c02 calculator and play with the numbers.
Just another banger homebrew video from Dr Hans! I recently finished my first pressure fermented lager with 34-70 in the zilla and it came out clean and crisp. Going to try an ale under pressure next at higher summer temps and see what results I get. Thanks for the content!
You asked for a pressure sensitive yeast; WLP565 - the Dupont strain. I only tried it once, in a regular bucket... stalled and came back to ferment after a week.. Dupont is said to ferment with the pressure sensitivity in mind. Have you tried it already?
Is the Brewers Friend keg carbonation calculator applicable for determining pressure fermentation levels for desired C02 levels at the end of fermentation ?
Hey Dr. Hans.. Im new in the game, but have brewed for about 6 months on my Brewster and firmzilla. My question is, do you always coldcrash before bottling ? I do also have co2 and a beergun for bottling. Right now I have 23L of Weiss ready for bottling this weekend. I have also always added sucker water to the bottles before filling them. But maybe that would not be necessary if I coldcrash ? Thank you for your reply.
@@DrHansBrewery I bottled with sucker, like I have done before. But is still wondering if I could coldcrash it in the firmzilla, keep it in the fridge and drink it straight out of the firmzilla like I see you do ? And what do you think about my first question ?
I’ve just started fermenting my first brew under pressure moving on from buckets. I’m struggling to find information and wondered when fermenting an ipa do I 1.add pressure at the start to my desired psi 2.let it build from the start to my desired psi or 3 keep it at 0psi at the start to allow some esters to form before then changing to my desired pressure after a couple of day Thanks I’m advance for any reply’s
I add pressure at start to dial in my spunding valve. That pressure will of course go down as the head space and the liquid balance out. So to answer you simply. You do not need to add any pressure at start.
Also have you noticed any difference in the perception of malty flavors under pressured fermentations? Really most larger commercial craft breweries ferment partially under pressure given the height of their fermenters
Hi Dr Hans love your videos. Do you still use the same temperatures and pressure as you say in this video (24c lager and 30c ales) at 2 bar? Some of your newer videos you use 15 psi?
I am planning on fermenting under pressure for the first time. Do I need to add CO2 to the allround after I pitch my yeast? Or should I let the fermentation produce my CO2?
Again, coming late to the party, I think he stated that it was NOT needed, but it was a good idea because you could set the pressure before the CO2 built up, which is not really predictable.
DR Hans. Thank you for this and all your other great videos. Having now watched most of them I have bit the bullet and ordered a All Rounder. Can you tell me if there is a start to finish idiots guide to pressure fermentation, I think I am going to need it.
I don't think there is some. But here's a start. Brew something simple for the first time. Start at the highest suggested temperature for the yeast you are using. Start ramping you're temp after about 48hours after active fermentation. When you see the that the Krausen is dropping, dry hop if you want and raise the temp up to max temp. Max temp is ordinary set by the co2 volumes wanted in the final beer calculated by pressure and temperature.
DrHans Brewery Thank you for you advice. I have now finished my first pressure ferment, following your guidance, in my all rounder and it’s been amazing. Used a two pack kit called Mad Millie larger from Brew 2 Bottle, with Mangrove Jacks M54 yeast, which I have now done a couple of times in my normal FV bucket. Started fermentation in the All Rounder, but didn’t set the Spunding valve correctly and woke up next morning with it at 35 PSI !!!!. Decreased the pressure to 15PSI and caused a major foam up. Anyway carried on and it fermented like a steam train. 6 days and hit my expected FG. On the seventh day the FG dropped a further 4 points. Cold crashed and added fining for two day, clear as a bell. Three days carbonating at 15PSI, 5C and it tasted absolutely wonderful and noticeably better than my previous traditional brewing method. 12 days to brew and drink is incredible. I have shared a few pints with a couple of brewing friends who find it amazing and said they would not have believed it was done in 12 days had they not have witnessed it themselves. Thank you so much for your direct support and advice, as well as the great videos you produce. This is wonderful.
On the topic of yeasts that may struggle under pressure, I have heard that Philly Sour does not handle pressure well, and so for example when trying to bottle condition, people are adding conditioning yeast like CBC-1 from Lallemand. I wonder could you do a pressurised fermentation with Philly Sour at a high pressure and see does it behave well?
Dr. is there a guideline to pressure fermentation against temperature? I pressure fermented my beer at 13 PSI in a room that was 30 C but it resulted in a low carbonated beer. I proceeded to keg it (closed transfer) and hook up my CO2 tank at an initial 30 PSI to increase the carbonation. After about 5 days I decreased the pressure in my CO2 tank to 12 PSI for an additional 4 days resulting in foamy beer. If I would have left the CO2 regulator on my keg at 12 - 13 PSI when I keg it and let it cold crash normally would the carbonation have fixed itself? When the beer is under carbonated how much pressure do I need to put in my keg to offset the difference? Other than the foam, the beer was delicious I just need to dial in the correct fermentation pressure and understand how much pressure my Co2 tank needs to bee to keep the beer when I keg it. Thanks! Rudy
Hi there! Im working on several more Q&A videos on the subject. Still collecting qustions in this form. Could you ask your questions there please. docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfisn_lZJFk-bD_rS97JLGPb2hpxda2e3XugnLCHNVwHkbFeg/viewform?usp=sf_link
Awesome, very interested in this topic and your approach to this. Will be following along to see the experiments and outcomes. I’m keen to experiment with pressure fermentation myself this year mostly to keep out oxygen for my hoppy beers but saving on CO2 seems like a very attractive bonus.
How do you keep your temperatures high? Its easy using a fridge and a temp controller to keep them low but 25-35c, i dont understand how you hold those temps consistently, especially as these bubbles are not supposed to be used with heat belts
Sounds like you're fermenting to cold. Thats a common smell when fermenting lagers. But when fermenting under pressure you can bump up the temp. At what temp are you fermenting at?
Curious about fermenting US-05 at low temp and get a peach ester, never heard of it but interesting. Can you provide more detail so I could try it out. Thanks
Great video! Thank you for the excellent content. Another option for pressure fermentation that is AWESOME and affordable is the Kegmenter. Just dropped a batch in mine tonight and set the blowtie spund. Are your brew goat recipe kits available in the US?
Hi Dr Hans, Can you please explain what you do with the pressure when you are ready to cold crash and then change to serving temperature? I am currently fermenting under pressure at 25psi in a fermzilla all rounder. When I go to chill the vessel, do I leave the pressure at 25psi and just cold crash it? What will the cO2 do? Will it be overcarbed? I’m struggling to find any answers on this even though I thought there’s be plenty of info??!! I thought I may have to release some pressure to avoid over carbonation but someone just told me otherwise. What do I do??!!! Thanks in advance
Remove the spunding valve and cold crash. As the beer gets colder pressure will go down. I dont know what temperature you ended your fermentation. But you would have to ferment very cold at 25psi for the beer to over carb at 25psi. If anywhere in ale temperature, no way! Hope this helped!
DrHans Brewery thanks mate! I have fermented at around 35 degrees Celsius. It’s a Voss Kveik yeast which is actually taking longer than I expected (7 days tomorrow , Australian time). Anyway I will remove spunding valve and then cold crash. Should I also hook up regulator to around 12psi as it cold crashes? This pressure stuff gives me a headache... thanks
@@duncanruss2837 at 35c that sounds like the beer will be underbarnet at 25psi. No no headache. Just take the spunding valve of and chill it. No need to put gas on it during cold crash. Let the beer cold down. Taste it. Put gas on it if you need more carbonation.
@@DrHansBrewery Hello. Let’s say I am fermenting under pressure about 15 psi at 20c. Then I want to cold crash it. What happens if I leave spunding valve hooked up on 15 psi? If I go down with temperature about 1 C - any chance to harm all rounder?
Hello. great Videos... I have 2 batches of lager at the cool lagering stage at the moment, i did not ferment them under pressure because i did not have my pressure barrels ready, so i just fermented them normally at 11c in my Shed and also completed a Diacetyl rest. I have now transferred them into 2 pressure barrels at 2c in my garage. Can I ask you. will my lagering stage speed up because I have them lagering under pressure, i have them at 6 PSi. I have them lagering in my old Rotokegs I used to use back in the 1990s and they are still holding pressure :) I'm using white labs yeast. I will be transferring them into a 50L Skankey keg and force carbonating soon !!thanks Tony
Just watched this video, as well as your spundit 2.0, I haven't been able to brew for a few months, but have been intrigued by brewing under pressure and am planning to try that on my next brews. That is the fun of being a homebrewer, trying different techniques. Excellent point, why say " someone said you can't do that ", when you've been doing it for some time? Thats why im going to start back brewing small batches. I have a 1/2 bbl brew system, but want to start low risk and brew more often. Thank you for your helpful content!
Do people really complain about you mentioning your beer kits? Wow, if they don't like the idea they don't have to buy them. As for high pressure fermenting stressing the yeast, it makes sense and I'm thinking that the yeast is more likely to mutate into something that survives high pressure better, but I don't care so long as it does its job as I don't harvest yeast after fermentation but save it from the starter. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us .
If I want to ferment under pressure and carbonise the beer, do I need a bottle of co2? And if yes what else do I need? Im going to buy the fermzilla with the pressure and spunding valve kit. What else do I need? I’m completely new to this. Total beginner
I've just started fermenting under pressure in kegs. You can ferment under pressure and purge a serving keg with the CO2 produced during fermentation if you have a spunding valve. But you will need a bottle if you plan to serve from a keg. Furthermore it's useful to have CO2 pressure to push beer or even just to flush bottles if you plan to bottle your beer with a counter pressure filler. Why not try to ferment in a keg? Much cheaper than a Fermzilla and if you don't like pressure fermentations you can always use it to serve the beer or sell it for the same money you bought it for
Hi! Nice vídeo, suscribe to see more like this. how long can you have a NEIPA in a pressurized fermenter before it starts to lose its qualities? Cheers from Argentina 🇦🇷
It will drop quite fast. That's why I think its key to bot make to high of ABV and not get hop burn when super fresh. You really want to be able to finnish it fast. But if course even after a month it should still be fine. Just have lost the freshness. A mix between a couple of hops and with yeast that also add fruitiness makes it last longer. Cheers and thanks for subscribing.
Hey Doctor, I usually use a 50cl PET bottle and put a carbonation cap on it, like when you add gelatin. Then I add co2 at 40 PSI to the bottle. I then put my spunding valve on the bottle (close first) and dail it in to 35 PSI. I then use much less co2. What do you think about that idea? Have you tried it?
Hi Dr. Hans. Thanks for all your content, it is really interesting and helpful. I am new on pressure fermentation and have some questions about when and how much pressure to add. Are you add pressure immediately after pitch the yeast? how much pressure? is it the same for lagers and ales? Cheers from Mexico :)
Goodday from Australia Dr Hans. Yesterday i started a pale ale with us05 in my allrounder. Im at 12psi at the moment. Can you tell me what pressure and temp. intervals and how much time with each adjustment to complete my fermentation please. :)
Cant say what you should do. But I can tell you how I would do it. I would start with us05 at 22C at 35PSi, after 3 days i would start ramp the temperature 1C a day. If I where to dry hop, I would dry hop as soon as I saw the fermentation activity go down. And ramp up the temperature to 30C. When I was convinced that the fermentation was over I would take of the spunding valve and could crash.
Great vid Doc. My two cents is that there is not right or wrong way of brewing beer, only different. I hope people would understand that and stop challenging, for example your content, for single source of truth. That path goes nowhere.
Thanks buddy! Yes I'm totally with with you. There are a lot of ways to brew beer. As I said in this video I would love to test out a yest that actually dont handle pressure good. So far I havent got any suggestions of any strain. Even though there's a lot of people mentioning it over and over. I'm in this for the learning. And this is a video on the stuff I've learned so far about pressurised fermentation. So sorry to see that picture of your Fermzilla 😪
@@DrHansBrewery ...just ordered the Fermentasaurus Snubnose. I don't need the big opening as I have Mark's keg washer. But to be honest, I don't trust the Fermzilla anymore.
Gear I Use and recommend over at Amazon: bit.ly/drhanssf
Visit my website for my free ebook: bit.ly/DrHans
A lot of traditionalists in the home brew game, and many would deny or contradict your findings because they've read otherwise somewhere, or 'so and so' said... But this hobby needs some crazy experimentation, and i applaud that you are actually trying different theories out and sharing your experiences. More people need to let go of the rule book. Let's see what we can really create.
When I started brewing I also listened and repeated. But after a while I found out that it was more fun in experiment for myself. And I'm learning tons from that. And I've found that so much things that people where saying didn't add up.
I love this post.
If everyone follows the rules , the only way we find anything new is by accident .
@@siiioxide yes that's why I like to experiment!
DrHans Brewery Thank you for your advice. I have now finished my first pressure ferment, following your guidance in my all rounder and it’s been amazing.
Used a two pack kit called Mad Millie larger from Brew 2 Bottle, with Mangrove Jacks M54 yeast, which I have now done a couple of times in my normal FV bucket.
Started fermentation in the All Rounder, but didn’t set the Spunding valve correctly and woke up next morning with it at 35 PSI !!!!.
Decreased the pressure to 15PSI and caused a major foam up. Anyway carried on and it fermented like a steam train. 6 days and hit my expected FG. On the seventh day the FG dropped a further 4 points. Cold crashed and added fining for two day, clear as a bell. Three days carbonating at 15PSI, 5C and it tasted absolutely wonderful and noticeably better than my previous traditional brewing method.
12 days to brew and drink is incredible. I have shared a few pints with a couple of brewing friends who find it amazing and said they would not have believed it was done in 12 days had they not have witnessed it themselves.
Thank you so much for your direct support and advice, as well as the great videos you produce. This is wonderful.
Great to see that you're active in the comments answering questions , you're videos have inspired me to get into pressure fermentation, I'll try it with a keg since they're pretty cheap to buy in my part of the world. Thanks Dr!
Sweet, a keg works great!
We all do things differently mate, doesn't mean we're wrong, what works for some doesn't for others and you can't please everyone. Cheers!
Ain't nothing wrong with doing this differently. Think that was the core of this video. And yes we cant please everyone. Cheers mate!
Don't think he was every implying his way was right and your way was wrong?
I just bought a pressure relief valve for 150 dkr (cheap), but the bloody thing was fixed at 1.5 bar. Other channels said to keep the pressure at
Awesome, skål!
Don't get why they recommend that!
I've tried pressure fermenting before with mixed results based on articles and blog posts. I'm glad you made a more comprehensive video detailing how you apply it to your beers. I will be doing this on my next NEIPA. Cheers!
Thanks, glad you like it. Good luck with the Neipa!
Hey Dr Hans,
Love all your content 👍
I have been pressure fermenting and kegging for a few months now and kept getting a bitter flavour (metallic) in my beer,
I have reconditioned kegs and after my first couple of beers had a metallic taste, so when I kicked the keg I checked the inside of the kegs and when cleaning were coming out with grey dirt on the cloths (machine oil)
So cleaned with sodium percarbonate washed through disassembled and used bar keepers friend on everything washed out and let passivate for 3 days before sanitising with chemsan.
This made a big difference but was still getting some off flavours and have been trying lots of different things, deep clean fermzilla taps, lines etc.
Then finally yesterday I think i have got to the bottom of it :-
Carbonic bite, my beer didn’t seem over carbed but after venting pressure when warm and dropping my serving pressure Down to 6psi the flavour has gone!
I have been fermenting at pressure for the style and temp from dr Hans carbonation calculator and then close transferring and bring psi back up to the carbonation chart level, last beer was a golden ale so 2.2vol at 25psi.
I would then leave for a week or 2 to condition at room temp then put in kegerator and attaching to co2 at 12psi serving pressure.
I can’t see where I have been going wrong? Is it due to fermenting under pressure I don’t need such a high serving pressure or is it the amount of co2 I’m fermenting at?
Also my regulator is a brand new odl regulator not cheap, so can’t see it being out.
Any help greatly appreciated
If you have a spare Cornelius keg, you're already good to go. All you need is a SPUNDit (or similar), and a way to limit the trub transfer from the fermenting keg to the serving keg. I use a stainless hop canister around my dip tube. During primary, vent the ferment CO2 to the serving keg, and put the spunding valve on the serving keg. This creates a pressurized system between the *two* kegs, and purges the serving keg with CO2 without any need for a CO2 tank. When the beer is finished, hook up the two kegs with jumpers, and transfer by venting a little pressure from the serving keg, which establishes a siphon from the fermenter. Wish I could post pics...
Cool, thanks for sharing. You could mail me a picture.
That’s smart. I’ve changed dip tubes for float dip tubes in all my corny kegs to make life easier.
morse I will do my first pressure transfer in few days, than we will see, fingers crossed
morse Try use small cable tie to secure silicon tube
morse ok Thank You, I bought floating kit for fermzilla, so silicone tub is going on precut by me keg dip tube but anyway I will notify you when I transfer my Märzen beer. Best Regards
I watched this video yesterday, 24 hours after putting a NEIPA into my Fermzilla. I've always been wary of high pressures due to being told that pressure can stress yeast etc. Well I decided to be brave & after doing a biotransformation dry hop, I bumped my temps right up & increased pressure to 20psi. The yeast is GOING CRAZY now, definitely keen to see how it turns out.
Cool, you will se that you wont have a problem. I have been fermenting at 35psi for years. Havent found a yeast strain yet who couldnt handle that. Let me know how it turns out for you.
@@DrHansBrewery turned out absolutely delicious, the best NEIPA I have ever made. Thanks!
If you think about the large fermentation tanks in some commercial breweries, they can be more than 20m high. Now I think they don't pressurize them from the top but for every meter of water you get 0,1 Bar. So at the bottom of the tank there will be 2 Bar or possibly more depending on the worts gravity and tank hight. And those Breweries don't get unfinished fermentations or such. So from that perspective I think your pressure range might be high for a home brewer but it shouldn't be a problem. I've ordered myself some pressure fermentation vessels so can't wait to start experimenting myself. And brew high pressure lagers even in the summertime.
Yes in those large tank the preassure is great at the bottom.
I am a brewer coming very late to the party, but I really like this comment. YES! If the yeast can not thrive under pressure, the bottom of the tank would be a dead zone. I have watched my secondaries and it looked like the yeast blobs were taking a ride with the CO2 bubbles to the top, to keep the organic circulation going. What if the pressure (at the bottom) stopped the yeast from doing that? If the circulation stops, how do the yeast and sugars keep working together? If one could magically freeze time, the yeast would have to stop because the nearby sugars would be used up. I think this supports the idea that circulation is absolutely necessary, and that a yeast that can not tolerate pressure will not survive the evolution game. Well, at least when the game is breweries with large tanks. But I think the above poster gave good information on that. THANKS, EVERYONE!
SPUNDit plus a 10g Torpedo keg for me. New to fermenting under pressure. Works great!
Great videos, Sir... You were cautious not to over carbonate. Looks like you corresponded your maximum fermentation pressures and temperatures with CO2 volume chart per specific beer type. I'll be attempting to pressure ferment on my next batch, would the carbonation chart be a reliable guide?
Thanks! Start with a chart or calculator and learn from that and see if you have to adjust.
Great video. Do you reuse your yeast? Have you had any issues reusing yeast that has been pressurized?
Yes I am. Not at all. You shoulld check out this video ua-cam.com/video/scFs9lspIqo/v-deo.html
@@DrHansBrewery Oh. Wow. That is a crazy experiment.
What im understanding from your video is that if you want properly carbonated beer at the end of fermentation than you need to ferment hotter with higher pressure, is that right? I ask because i bought the gear to do it and the shop i bought it from said 10psi for ales and 15psi for lagers, they also said you can end up with carbonated beer but that looks unlikely at only 10psi! Also their spunding valve only goes to 15psi which is a bummer!
The lower the temp the less pressure you need to use. But at 15psi you would end your fermentation at 8C for around 2.4 volumes. Use a beer c02 calculator and play with the numbers.
Just another banger homebrew video from Dr Hans! I recently finished my first pressure fermented lager with 34-70 in the zilla and it came out clean and crisp. Going to try an ale under pressure next at higher summer temps and see what results I get. Thanks for the content!
Thanks, glad you like it. Cool that you've also getting started with pressurised fermentation. Cheers!
What pressure setting?
Do you find the carbonation affects the gravity reading? False high?
Yes, you need to of gass the beer before taking a hydrometer reading
@@DrHansBrewery thanks brother. Keep up the good work.
@@rogerbachand3156 thanks!
You asked for a pressure sensitive yeast; WLP565 - the Dupont strain. I only tried it once, in a regular bucket... stalled and came back to ferment after a week.. Dupont is said to ferment with the pressure sensitivity in mind. Have you tried it already?
I have not. Thanks for the suggestion!
Is the Brewers Friend keg carbonation calculator applicable for determining pressure fermentation levels for desired C02 levels at the end of fermentation ?
Yes!
@@DrHansBrewery thanks Dr!
Great Q&A!! Just keep up the good work mate always fun to watch your vids! Cheers 🍺
Thanks buddy!
Another great video...
Thanks mate!
Hey Dr. Hans.. Im new in the game, but have brewed for about 6 months on my Brewster and firmzilla. My question is, do you always coldcrash before bottling ? I do also have co2 and a beergun for bottling. Right now I have 23L of Weiss ready for bottling this weekend. I have also always added sucker water to the bottles before filling them. But maybe that would not be necessary if I coldcrash ? Thank you for your reply.
Is the beer you're about the bottle carbonated from pressure fermentation.
@@DrHansBrewery Yes, it has been carbonating on my firmzilla for 2 weeks at 20dg C, and around 1,3 bar.
@@DrHansBrewery I bottled with sucker, like I have done before. But is still wondering if I could coldcrash it in the firmzilla, keep it in the fridge and drink it straight out of the firmzilla like I see you do ? And what do you think about my first question ?
I’ve just started fermenting my first brew under pressure moving on from buckets. I’m struggling to find information and wondered when fermenting an ipa do I 1.add pressure at the start to my desired psi 2.let it build from the start to my desired psi or 3 keep it at 0psi at the start to allow some esters to form before then changing to my desired pressure after a couple of day
Thanks I’m advance for any reply’s
I add pressure at start to dial in my spunding valve. That pressure will of course go down as the head space and the liquid balance out. So to answer you simply. You do not need to add any pressure at start.
Also have you noticed any difference in the perception of malty flavors under pressured fermentations? Really most larger commercial craft breweries ferment partially under pressure given the height of their fermenters
Have to answer both your questions the same Im afraid. I need to do a side by side to really give you an honest answer.
@@DrHansBrewery I think a Black or Red IPA side by side might be a good choice to answer these questions
Bonjour,
I have two snub nose.
Can we put the two fermenters in parallel for harvest the CO2 on the second fermenter ?
Yep, place the spunding valve on the second fermenters gas post.
Go from gass to beer from vessel 1 to 2.
@@DrHansBrewery
Do you think we can after Push the beer from fermenter 1 with CO2 from the second fermenter to the keg. That will be nice
Can I use your calculator for fermenting under pressure in whatever temperature with the only limit to be in the yeast temperature range?
Dr. Can i spray paint it black?
The plastic tank?
@@DrHansBrewery yes
I guess, try the paint on a regular PET bottle first. I have just put a black plastic bag on it if I need protect it from light.
Hi Dr Hans love your videos.
Do you still use the same temperatures and pressure as you say in this video (24c lager and 30c ales) at 2 bar? Some of your newer videos you use 15 psi?
I am planning on fermenting under pressure for the first time. Do I need to add CO2 to the allround after I pitch my yeast? Or should I let the fermentation produce my CO2?
Again, coming late to the party, I think he stated that it was NOT needed, but it was a good idea because you could set the pressure before the CO2 built up, which is not really predictable.
Have you noticed any differences in biotransformation rates (early addition dry hops), or in dry hopping in general with respect to flavor and aroma?
Have to answer both your questions the same Im afraid. I need to do a side by side to really give you an honest answer.
DR Hans. Thank you for this and all your other great videos. Having now watched most of them I have bit the bullet and ordered a All Rounder. Can you tell me if there is a start to finish idiots guide to pressure fermentation, I think I am going to need it.
I don't think there is some. But here's a start. Brew something simple for the first time. Start at the highest suggested temperature for the yeast you are using. Start ramping you're temp after about 48hours after active fermentation. When you see the that the Krausen is dropping, dry hop if you want and raise the temp up to max temp. Max temp is ordinary set by the co2 volumes wanted in the final beer calculated by pressure and temperature.
DrHans Brewery . Thanks for such a speedy and informative reply. This could revolutionise my home brew set up.
@@michaelburrell6761 I hope it will! I'm quite sure to be Frank!
DrHans Brewery Thank you for you advice. I have now finished my first pressure ferment, following your guidance, in my all rounder and it’s been amazing.
Used a two pack kit called Mad Millie larger from Brew 2 Bottle, with Mangrove Jacks M54 yeast, which I have now done a couple of times in my normal FV bucket.
Started fermentation in the All Rounder, but didn’t set the Spunding valve correctly and woke up next morning with it at 35 PSI !!!!.
Decreased the pressure to 15PSI and caused a major foam up. Anyway carried on and it fermented like a steam train. 6 days and hit my expected FG. On the seventh day the FG dropped a further 4 points. Cold crashed and added fining for two day, clear as a bell. Three days carbonating at 15PSI, 5C and it tasted absolutely wonderful and noticeably better than my previous traditional brewing method.
12 days to brew and drink is incredible. I have shared a few pints with a couple of brewing friends who find it amazing and said they would not have believed it was done in 12 days had they not have witnessed it themselves.
Thank you so much for your direct support and advice, as well as the great videos you produce. This is wonderful.
@@michaelburrell6761 Thank you so much! I'm glad that my tips where helpful!
On the topic of yeasts that may struggle under pressure, I have heard that Philly Sour does not handle pressure well, and so for example when trying to bottle condition, people are adding conditioning yeast like CBC-1 from Lallemand. I wonder could you do a pressurised fermentation with Philly Sour at a high pressure and see does it behave well?
Dr. is there a guideline to pressure fermentation against temperature? I pressure fermented my beer at 13 PSI in a room that was 30 C but it resulted in a low carbonated beer. I proceeded to keg it (closed transfer) and hook up my CO2 tank at an initial 30 PSI to increase the carbonation. After about 5 days I decreased the pressure in my CO2 tank to 12 PSI for an additional 4 days resulting in foamy beer.
If I would have left the CO2 regulator on my keg at 12 - 13 PSI when I keg it and let it cold crash normally would the carbonation have fixed itself? When the beer is under carbonated how much pressure do I need to put in my keg to offset the difference?
Other than the foam, the beer was delicious I just need to dial in the correct fermentation pressure and understand how much pressure my Co2 tank needs to bee to keep the beer when I keg it.
Thanks!
Rudy
Hi there!
Im working on several more Q&A videos on the subject. Still collecting qustions in this form. Could you ask your questions there please.
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfisn_lZJFk-bD_rS97JLGPb2hpxda2e3XugnLCHNVwHkbFeg/viewform?usp=sf_link
Awesome, very interested in this topic and your approach to this. Will be following along to see the experiments and outcomes. I’m keen to experiment with pressure fermentation myself this year mostly to keep out oxygen for my hoppy beers but saving on CO2 seems like a very attractive bonus.
Thanks! Yes as I said keeping oxygen is the biggest benefit in my opinion!
Great video love your stuff. How do you deal with temperature control using the fermzilla? How do you keep it at a warm temperature inside a fridge?
Thanks, I use a heating matt in the fridge. Used for terrariums
How do you keep your temperatures high? Its easy using a fridge and a temp controller to keep them low but 25-35c, i dont understand how you hold those temps consistently, especially as these bubbles are not supposed to be used with heat belts
I have a heating mat in the fridge not touching the bubble.
Hi Dr. Hans have you ever experience egg smell, Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) from your pressure fermenting lagers?
Sounds like you're fermenting to cold. Thats a common smell when fermenting lagers. But when fermenting under pressure you can bump up the temp.
At what temp are you fermenting at?
Curious about fermenting US-05 at low temp and get a peach ester, never heard of it but interesting. Can you provide more detail so I could try it out. Thanks
Try to go at least under 17C. Why not 15c
Great video! Thank you for the excellent content. Another option for pressure fermentation that is AWESOME and affordable is the Kegmenter. Just dropped a batch in mine tonight and set the blowtie spund. Are your brew goat recipe kits available in the US?
Thanks James! Right now only in Sweden I'm afraid. Hopefully in the future. Cheers!
Hi Dr Hans,
Can you please explain what you do with the pressure when you are ready to cold crash and then change to serving temperature? I am currently fermenting under pressure at 25psi in a fermzilla all rounder. When I go to chill the vessel, do I leave the pressure at 25psi and just cold crash it? What will the cO2 do? Will it be overcarbed? I’m struggling to find any answers on this even though I thought there’s be plenty of info??!! I thought I may have to release some pressure to avoid over carbonation but someone just told me otherwise.
What do I do??!!! Thanks in advance
Remove the spunding valve and cold crash. As the beer gets colder pressure will go down. I dont know what temperature you ended your fermentation. But you would have to ferment very cold at 25psi for the beer to over carb at 25psi. If anywhere in ale temperature, no way! Hope this helped!
DrHans Brewery thanks mate! I have fermented at around 35 degrees Celsius. It’s a Voss Kveik yeast which is actually taking longer than I expected (7 days tomorrow , Australian time). Anyway I will remove spunding valve and then cold crash. Should I also hook up regulator to around 12psi as it cold crashes? This pressure stuff gives me a headache... thanks
@@duncanruss2837 at 35c that sounds like the beer will be underbarnet at 25psi. No no headache. Just take the spunding valve of and chill it. No need to put gas on it during cold crash. Let the beer cold down. Taste it. Put gas on it if you need more carbonation.
DrHans Brewery thanks doctor, appreciate it. 👍🏼
@@DrHansBrewery Hello. Let’s say I am fermenting under pressure about 15 psi at 20c. Then I want to cold crash it. What happens if I leave spunding valve hooked up on 15 psi? If I go down with temperature about 1 C - any chance to harm all rounder?
Hello. great Videos... I have 2 batches of lager at the cool lagering stage at the moment, i did not ferment them under pressure because i did not have my pressure barrels ready, so i just fermented them normally at 11c in my Shed and also completed a Diacetyl rest. I have now transferred them into 2 pressure barrels at 2c in my garage. Can I ask you. will my lagering stage speed up because I have them lagering under pressure, i have them at 6 PSi. I have them lagering in my old Rotokegs I used to use back in the 1990s and they are still holding pressure :) I'm using white labs yeast. I will be transferring them into a 50L Skankey keg and force carbonating soon !!thanks Tony
Do you think I will get away with one week, Lagering in my pressure barrel as appose to about 3.. Thanks Tony
Its o I think i got the answer in you Q and A Number 3... 2 weeks :)
When cold crashing, do you hook up the fermzilla to CO2? To keep the vessel from imploding. And if, how much pressure?
Hi DrHans what about Diacetyl rest. What is your way to remove it from beer. Thank You
I ramp up the temperature in the end.
Interesting video Dr. Cheers😎👍
Thanks mate, cheers!
when it comes ro the fat on the orings is ister a viable fat?
Never tried it. But if that's the only fat/grease you can get your hands on. I would give it a go.
Just watched this video, as well as your spundit 2.0, I haven't been able to brew for a few months, but have been intrigued by brewing under pressure and am planning to try that on my next brews. That is the fun of being a homebrewer, trying different techniques. Excellent point, why say " someone said you can't do that ", when you've been doing it for some time? Thats why im going to start back brewing small batches. I have a 1/2 bbl brew system, but want to start low risk and brew more often. Thank you for your helpful content!
Great to hear. And thank you for your kind words. Good luck!
Sorry I don’t mean this to be a kind of a weird question, but what are you a doctor of, beer?
Do people really complain about you mentioning your beer kits? Wow, if they don't like the idea they don't have to buy them.
As for high pressure fermenting stressing the yeast, it makes sense and I'm thinking that the yeast is more likely to mutate into something that survives
high pressure better, but I don't care so long as it does its job as I don't harvest yeast after fermentation but save it from the starter.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us .
Of course they are 😂
I dont think pressure is stressing the yeast at all,
If I want to ferment under pressure and carbonise the beer, do I need a bottle of co2? And if yes what else do I need? Im going to buy the fermzilla with the pressure and spunding valve kit. What else do I need? I’m completely new to this. Total beginner
I've just started fermenting under pressure in kegs. You can ferment under pressure and purge a serving keg with the CO2 produced during fermentation if you have a spunding valve. But you will need a bottle if you plan to serve from a keg. Furthermore it's useful to have CO2 pressure to push beer or even just to flush bottles if you plan to bottle your beer with a counter pressure filler.
Why not try to ferment in a keg? Much cheaper than a Fermzilla and if you don't like pressure fermentations you can always use it to serve the beer or sell it for the same money you bought it for
Hi! Nice vídeo, suscribe to see more like this. how long can you have a NEIPA in a pressurized fermenter before it starts to lose its qualities? Cheers from Argentina 🇦🇷
It will drop quite fast. That's why I think its key to bot make to high of ABV and not get hop burn when super fresh. You really want to be able to finnish it fast. But if course even after a month it should still be fine. Just have lost the freshness. A mix between a couple of hops and with yeast that also add fruitiness makes it last longer. Cheers and thanks for subscribing.
Hey Doctor,
I usually use a 50cl PET bottle and put a carbonation cap on it, like when you add gelatin. Then I add co2 at 40 PSI to the bottle. I then put my spunding valve on the bottle (close first) and dail it in to 35 PSI. I then use much less co2. What do you think about that idea? Have you tried it?
Yes, that works to!
Hi Dr. Hans. Thanks for all your content, it is really interesting and helpful. I am new on pressure fermentation and have some questions about when and how much pressure to add. Are you add pressure immediately after pitch the yeast? how much pressure? is it the same for lagers and ales? Cheers from Mexico :)
I only add pressure to dial in my spunding valve. Check out my CO2 calculator on my webpage. It will help you.
Goodday from Australia Dr Hans. Yesterday i started a pale ale with us05 in my allrounder. Im at 12psi at the moment. Can you tell me what pressure and temp. intervals and how much time with each adjustment to complete my fermentation please. :)
Cant say what you should do. But I can tell you how I would do it.
I would start with us05 at 22C at 35PSi, after 3 days i would start ramp the temperature 1C a day. If I where to dry hop, I would dry hop as soon as I saw the fermentation activity go down. And ramp up the temperature to 30C. When I was convinced that the fermentation was over I would take of the spunding valve and could crash.
@@DrHansBrewery Cheers :)
@@richardbuchanan7091 cheers!
Love your channel, lots of fun. Brew while you still can in Swedistan....
Thanks mate, brewing right now!
Meget bra video
Tackar Bjrnar!
Great vid Doc. My two cents is that there is not right or wrong way of brewing beer, only different. I hope people would understand that and stop challenging, for example your content, for single source of truth. That path goes nowhere.
Thanks buddy! Yes I'm totally with with you. There are a lot of ways to brew beer. As I said in this video I would love to test out a yest that actually dont handle pressure good. So far I havent got any suggestions of any strain. Even though there's a lot of people mentioning it over and over. I'm in this for the learning. And this is a video on the stuff I've learned so far about pressurised fermentation. So sorry to see that picture of your Fermzilla 😪
@@DrHansBrewery ...just ordered the Fermentasaurus Snubnose. I don't need the big opening as I have Mark's keg washer. But to be honest, I don't trust the Fermzilla anymore.
@@apexbrewhouse I'm sure you will enjoy the simplicity of the snub nose.