Hey Mr Pete sorry you’re not getting enough views on this series but we diehard fans will always support you just a thought show a mystery tool for extra credit once in awhile have a great day and thank you so much for all you do for us
I agree , but try doing " what is it" and the answers the same video. I feel it would be more engaging and getting the immediate an answers will make the video more. interesting and fun
@@kendion4597 I'm pretty sure you mention that he needs more views to guess what's some of the objects are. With that said putting the answers in the same would not work.
This is the very first episode I have ever seen and I am well entertained. This is akin of me getting into a series on tv by accident, loving it, only to discover that I found it too late and even before I have binged the whole thing learning that it has been canceled. Every. Single. Time. Upside: I now have 82-ish episodes of something interesting in my playlist :)
um. Well, I don't ask questions because you always seem to answer the question I'm thinking of. I honestly wish you had this series back when I was in the Navy. My last command I ran the Tool Room. We had a lot of old funky tools no one knew what they were for. The most bizzarre tool we had was a pistol shaped 'gun' that was registered with the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC). The AEC was disestablished in 1974, and that thing had been in inventory since the late 1940s. Might have been a death ray for all I know. All I had to do was inventory it every month and note its last calibration....which was 1968. Did I try to withdraw it from service and have it sent off so I didn't have to do the extra paperwork? Yes. Did any Commanding Officer let me do that? No. "We might need that one day"....which is why its propbably still sitting there....
The whole, "we might need that one day," is my whole mind set, when doing any sort of maintenance or repair. I grew up with that mindset(along with 'make it work'), but once I got my own house/property, I quickly discovered I can't throw 98% of anything away. Saving all the odds and ends, has saved me lots of time and money. I do hate how I feel like a hoarder, but damn, do I hate when I throw something out and 2 days later I needed it. The aggression I have to shake off, while I do the regretful and shameful drive to the hardware/automotive store, can be nauseating. Even be expensive, all because I threw out something I could reuse. It's a curse and a blessing.
As for item #3 I've got a similar tool. I inherited mine form my Grandfather who was a master machinist, from WWII eraa until his retirement in the early 1980s, for various aviation defense dept. contractors. Because of the nylon jaws they are used to remove or replace Amphenol connectors on aircraft with out galling the threaded locking barrel. I still use them on aircraft.
I used my Craftsman side-feed table like yours to hollow-grind every one of the regular screwdrivers in my tool chest - no more messed up slots on screws! I had it mounted on a dedicated grinder along with a craftsman drill-bit sharpening jig on the side of the wheel - it became one of the most used work-stations in my shop - sharp, straight, and square tools are a real pleasure to work with...
This is the first video I recommended by the algorithm. Don't be discouraged, things take time. You seem to have a wealth of knowledge and understanding, and passing that down to the youngsters is noble character trait. Thank you. That last tool looks like it would be a useful accessory on a lathe for fine tuning a piece.
#3 are called "soft jaws". They are used for tightening and removing radio communication connectors that have a knurled exterior surface, instead of flat surfaces like a bolt that you can use a common wrench to tighten or loosen. They are quite common in the telecommunications biz and used on the fittings for coax and antennas on tower sites.
Lyle, I really hate to see this series go away. I really like yelling at my screen when I know what the tool/thing is.. I'm really good at identifying stuff but you frequently have something I really scratch my head over. I personally have an item I can't figure out (I sent you a couple of pics some time ago, you didn't know either). Don't give up on this series, there's a lot of folks that really like it..
The grinder attachment is interesting. A complex design, but as you mentioned, not very rigid. I use hand planes, but would not use my grinding wheels to sharpen the irons, they are too coarse. I have used a grinding wheel to hog off metal when restoring a hand plane when the iron was really messed up by previous owners. I then use my normal method of a Veritas jig to hold the iron and various fine grits of wet-dry paper on a surface plate to get a sharp edge and 90 deg to the side of the iron.
I like the basic idea of the design, it is almost like a super small scale surface grinder. I would probably change up some of the details of the design but this is something I am working with right now for a slow speed diamond lapping system I am putting together
Watching your videos reminds me of Mr Duckworth, a retired man that lived down the road back in the 70s. Every boy in our small neighborhood knew and respected him. If you have the will to learn he was eager to teach. It's not the number of people it's the amount of impact you have on them. Thank you.
Hi Mr Pete, I inherited a larfe chest of Stanley tools from the 1950's. They had never been used, never been opened and were in the original boxes. Every wood working tool you could think of including a lathe and a very early electric drill.
It is disappointing that this sort of video does not have a wider following. I always find them fascinating. I have always been a tool maker, use whatever is handy,to make or modify the tool to make the job easier. . I will suggest to you that, as little as I like the shorts format, that doing one tool in under thirty seconds might catch on. Call them Mr. Pete's puzzlers. The wider audience is so ignorant of what is out there something as obvious as a Robertson screwdriver is a puzzle to most Americans. Throw out a new one daily.
I really like and enjoy watching your comments on old tools. It's a great way to improve my vocabulary. English is a second language for me. Merci beaucoup.
Yeah Mr. Pete you are awesome, I’m 33 and been starting to do a lot of tool and car work in my garage. In i really appreciate your videos of your bench vices. Hope all’s well with you. God bless
The mainspring tool is missing the movable point that goes in the slot. The cam rotates and moves the sliding point and you use the space between the moving point and fixed point like a micrometer. The small screw on the end of the arm is used to zero it out. It is used to measure the width and thickness of the mainspring. The numbers are metric notation. These days I just use a micrometer. I have a wind farm north of me with 25 of those. If I recall they were installed around 2010 and a couple have already failed. Then 2020 the town tried to force two of the farms to give up their property for a solar farm. Until that company went belly up like the opponents pointed out the various solar companies tend to do.
Thing is you can have solar and a farm. Got a solar farm near me that has sheep & cattle grazing on it, no need for mowing and the animals appreciate the shade. There are also plans for one growing berries or some sort, they plant them under the panels to get partial shade. That seems to be getting popular. Sounds like someone in the town council was getting a kickback from the solar company.
@@j.f.christ8421 The routine here has been that Company A comes in, files the paperwork and gets the town/landowner on board saying "look at what you get paid and we will not be doing anything to change the property." Then the crew arrives and they dig the topsoil off the field(s) and sell it, then level things up and toss a cheap grain seed like rye on it and build the solar farm. As soon as it goes online the company collects a big check from the feds and within 6 months they file for bankruptcy and the company goes up for sale. Company B buys the farm and takes it over, BUT they won't honor the original contract because they are a different company. So the landowner get's screwed and the town does as well because all the things they were to receive evaporate as well. Then after 6 months company B puts the place up for sale as a low cost of service facility and company C buys it.
Very interesting, I love learning about odd tools I have never seen before and your entertaining personality is definitely a bonus. Thanks for the video!
#4 Former professional (and current hobby) machinist, and current optician here. Like any good tool, it IS for what ever you use it for. That being said, it is likely NOT a frame adjustment plier, though it could be used for certain specific adjustments I am sure. More likely, it is a lens BREAKING plier. Old frames with glass lenses, depending on the design, needed to have the lens broken into multiple pieces to remove the old lens, so the new lenses could be put in place. Also, some opticians prefer to break out the demo lens from a semi-rimless frame, rather than try to get a finger nail under the nylon retention cord. Pliers like that would be nearly perfect for splitting a lens. My lens cracking pliers are a Concorde Model #5027. Main difference being they are a sharp point and cup jaw setup ass opposed to the wedge and recess of that pair, but mine are also not intended for glass lenses, so that would likely be the reason for the design difference. Just a professional educated guess though.
@@jamielee9350 I have 3 different designs of those rimless bushing pliers... And if the pointy jaw had a small groove or flat, I might agree, but coming to a point like that pair does, it would crush instead of cup the bushing. Maybe it would work for setting and peening the brass rivets for twin riveted hinges, but I've always done those with a tack hammer.
I used pliers similar to the red handles ones when in the military. We called them "sweet lips". They were used for removing twist connectors on electronic equipment. Most were made with slip joints for different size connectors.
My dad got me hooked on tools as a kid.. I love this series. There may only be a few thousand of us die-hard enthusiasts here, Mr Peterson, please understand this is a dedicated core group of tool junkies watching, and that we just love this stuff.
Keep on going tubal. There are people older than you who are enjoying your channel and the knowledge you have. Start making stuff. I want to make something!!!!!
"That grinder attachment is pretty dam nice" Wish our tool and die shop had one, we had diamond dresser blocks for the surface grinders. A diamond round for the Gorton cutter and cylindrical grinders. But none for the post grinder, never could get a concentrate dress with the cast star wheel hand dresser! Edit - Do agree that something is missing on the clock tool. Prehaps someone will be able to forward a catalog photo of a complete tool.
Just popped up in my recommendations and watched the whole thing enthralled, especially with the demonstration of the grinder jig by Craftsman. Here's hoping more people discover your channel!
I’m addicted to Mr. Pete’s videos so always watch every one. That pliers tool looks wicked. Maybe for gripping that old impacted jaw tooth out (ouch). Probably have to be tied down for that one.
now you've given me another useful tool to hunt around to find, that grinding guide is exactly the solution I've been searching for to achieve what I need ground.
Hey, don't knock hollow-ground screwdrivers! They're less likely to cam out so anyone who has a jig like this would use it. One feature missing, though, is the ability to flip the workpiece over without losing its lengthwise position, so your screwdriver is ground the same amount on both sides. Even better for gripping than hollow-ground would be a screwdriver ground to the hollow-ground shape but by holding it sideways against a crowned grinding wheel. This would leave crossways grinding marks which would further help with gripping the screw head.
Gunsmiths love these screwdrivers that are hollow ground. It allows a screwdriver with flat parralel sides to slide all the way to the bottom of the screw's groove and prevents the crown of the screw head from being mashed and spread apart when pushing down hard with the screwdriver. The screwdriver also contacts the screw head groove across the whole groove so their is less chance of scrapping the edges of the groove when the screwdriver's head pops up (cams) out of the groove. These hollow ground screwdrivers used by gunsmiths are very pricey but worth it. The better the fit between the screwdriver and the groove the better. This tool would also be used to take a screwdriver that is too thick and grinding it down to have a skinnier screwdriver head that would now be a perfect fit. If the screwdriver is too thin, then you would grind the tool head down to make the shaft shorter and then hollow grind the two sides again. If the screwdriver's shaft has four sides it would be simple to flip it over and slide it left/right in the jig to keep the faces of the screwdriver head parallel and true. If the shaft is square but the head is not parallel to the sides then you can use the V-grooves for alignment. Six sided screwdriver shafts work the same. Gunsmiths hate it when they scrape a screw head and remove some of blackened surface because customers expect the blackened finish to be unmarred. They would then have to blacken a tiny screw. If the screw head is stripped along the groove then they would have to make a new screw or special order the replacement screw. There are no replacement screws available for old or antique guns. An old hex key can be repurposed into a flat grind screwdriver too, so you don't need to start with a screwdriver. On round shafts you would have to grind one side flat before using the flip technique. I don't have a fancy tool like this grinding attachment in my home shop but every once in a while I need to preserve a blackened, rare or oddball screw so I carefully do the same procedure manually on my grinder or with a Dremel. My hand made version would never be as true, parallel or precise but my hand made tool it much better than nothing and normally prevents me from ruining a special screw. Watches, medical instruments, scientific instruments, and decorative items often need this special kind of care for their screws to preserve the finish or keep from stripping the groove. All big box screwdrivers come with sloped sides rather than flat parallel sides and often result in damaging screw heads. I don't care about damaged screw heads on normal everyday items so flat head screwdrivers are not used until the situation really needs it. If I had this attachment, I would want to buy a new cheap dedicated grinder because it would take me too long to setup and breakdown.
Having used similar tools Item 2, I agree that the calibration follower is missing. And yes it will measure thickness of most anything. Considering the guides wound flat springs would be a good use Item 3 Looks like a set of Cannon Plug Plyers. The new ones use curved jaws and not replaceable plastic blocks.
A Gunsmith would actually hollow grind a screw driver! We pretty much exclusively only use hollow ground, precision sized by width and thickness, screw drivers and driver bits. I would love to have that tool just for that purpose and a few others I would use it for like truing the grinding wheel because we require them to be quite accurate also. It's definitely pretty neato, I've never seen another apparatus quite like it in modern times.
Number 4 is very similar to a tool I still have in my toolbox, from many years ago when I was a marine mechanic. It is used ti remove the lock washer on Mercury outboard and inboard/outboard propellers.
I was in the Navy and I worked with weapons systems, some missile systems make their connections via what are called cannon plugs. These are multi pin connectors that screw in place. Number 3 looks like a pair of cannon plug pliers to men and the size adjustment is form different size cannon plugs.
---- actually, it is the sort of thing you used if you wanted sharp tools - those came from an era when even 'home owners' could repair things and everything wasn't disposable - very similar items to that sharpening jig are still available but few folks have the skills or desire to learn to use them
I inherited the Craftsman grinding tool along with many other woodworking tools from my uncle's estate. I kept it for many years and finally got rid of it. I never knew what it was for. This was pre-internet days. I really like the dressing capability you demonstrated and would have kept it for that purpose had I known. Other than that, I now have much better tools for sharpening plane irons and chisels. And I personally appreciate the "what is it" series and disappointed they are not viewed more and made it worth your while. Thanks.
That grinder attachment is pretty darn nice....yup, screw drivers should be hollow ground to provide flats to drive standard screws. As for the torture device, who holds on to them after a few days of use? : )
..All a bit of a Mystery.. The Mystery-Tool series are a testament to the ingenuity of man and well worth a second view and more scratching of viewers heads. Apparently 82b is the answer to the view enigma as discussed in 83a, now all we need to know is .....why.... Regardless, all very enjoyable , instructional and satisfying and similar key wordings. Excellent. Pleas Sir, can I have some more? Well Done mrpete222 Training the trainer? fun! Thank you Lyle for your commitment to recording your knowledge for posterity. ..seriously!
I used to use one of those craftsman tools to sharpen blades, chisels, cutting tools for for lathes and sharpening old mower blades For dressing the wheels, you don't need to move the tool to the other side, you swap the wheel to be dressed to the side with the tool attached. It's just a nut that you remove, or a screw. You dress both on one side of the grinder. It was mainly for more stability in sharpening certain tools for a straight, clean edge.
I think the Waltham main spring tool is used for making new main springs. These main springs are normally flat springs to take up little space in a wristwatch or small clock.. The shaft at the center of the spring rotates one direction until the spring stops its motion and starts rotating the shaft in the other direction acting like a pendulum in a grandfather clock. These main springs are also used to store energy by winding the spring to its limit and then using it to power the movement in the watch. This energy storage technique was before batteries and was needed on clocks smaller than grandfather clocks that used weights and gravity to store energy. A straight piece of spring steel (flat or round) wire would come from below the handle, then go down the groove in the handle and finally be inserted into the hole on the dial face or through a hole in the center shaft of the dial. Then you could spin the dial or spin the handle to wind the spring steel into its flat spiral shape. The measuring dial could help answer the question about how relatively strong a new main spring is by knowing the thickness, width and coil winding gap. If you make a new spring and it is too stiff or weak then you could vary one of these parameters when you make the next spring. Keep going with this repetitive process until you get a main spring you are happy with. This tool would be valuable on an assembly line where you want to make multiple springs to the same specs from the same spring steel. This tool would also be needed when you get a new batch of spring steel from your supplier and need to figure out how to make more new springs that are similar to the old spring's specs..
It’s not a mainspring forming tool. This mainspring gauge was marketed to watch repairers and jewelers to measure and select an appropriate replacement spring. The edge of the cam disk is precision ground. The sliding caliper jaw that indicates against the disk is missing from this example.
I'm pretty sure tool #4 is a glass breaker. First I was unsure, because You really can't have much glass to break, because the jaw's so shallow, and the ones I used had the U shaped cavity perpendicular to the handle, but once You said optometrist, that makes perfectly sense, since a lens doesn't have much meat on it and it's more precise. If it is, You'd use it as follows: You score the glass with a diamond glass cutter, take this tool and align it with the scratch so that the tooth (it looks rather pointy) is right under the scratch (the scratch is on the surface facing You) and either flat end of that - let's call it - 'anvil' is touching either side that's divided by the scratch. Then You simply push the handles together and the glass will break cleanly right at the score line in an upside down V shaped motion.
I've got a diamond dressing tool for grinders that rides the front edge of the tool rest and you just slide it across the face of the wheel. It has 2 different sides for different width tool rests and a knob to feed the depth of cut on the nib. Very handy. I've had it for at least 20 years, it's not old yet. The mainspring tool looks like it is for measuring spring stock size and then bending the ends in the slot. The radius relief suggests relief for spring back when making the ends of mainsprings. The screw and slide would be for gripping while bending.... my 2 cents.
@MrPete222 - Tool #4 looks familiar to me. It's not anything I have owned or used personally, but I believe that I have seen it used with livestock to install ear tags. One part of the tag's strap would lie in the channel and the point would drive the stud through the ear and lock it in place. I'm probably wrong. It is more likely to be used by a jeweler or optician.
🗿 I've been to many auctions. You've been bringing us those items that made me go hmmm , trying to determine what they were for. Thanks for sharing these, sorry they didn't peak more intrest... Tip of the hat to you, MrPete 👍
Mr. Pete, I really enjoy these videos. I'm kinda old school but still working, no one else seems to want to. Those pliers may be a set of Cannon plug pliers. for a larger diameter. Just slide the jaws out and reverse. there may have also been different inserts for different sizes.
Always appreciate the lessons. They dropped a tower around here as well. Installed in the fall, burned in the winter and they blasted it to fell it. Also heard that there are problems with all the towers in that installation, but I don't know what the outcome will be. I heard that the fiberglass that spread after the nacelle burned is causing problems as well with the farmland below it. Funny (not really) that you never see them in the more monied parts of a state.
Be sure, and watch my two-part video this weekend on the windmills. I just told that to my wife, the other day, they don’t build these things on Cape Cod.
@@mrpete222 Ah true. Up north of the Adirondack Park in NY, there are hundreds of these. All on farmlands. Farmers make income from the leasing though. One farmer just does grass for feed because he get residuals from the dozen windmills on his land along with having a celltower attached to his silo. But I never realized they demolition them like that... guess faster/cheaper than bringing in crew, crane, logistics...
Hey friend, I really like your videos! It’s great to see someone passing on the knowledge that has been learned over a lifetime! I truly hope you keep it up and keep at it! We don’t think this is a failure at all.. if even one person learns something you have already done more then most! Please keep at it, your amazing, with a wealth of knowledge and understanding we could all learn from! Thankyou for your time and effort, it has not been in vein, i really hope you stick around!
It may not have occurred to you that the reason more people don't comment is that we simply don't know the answer. Nobody wants to seem like a fool with an "I don't know" in the bylines. It's no fault of yours. I personally think these videos are great. I honestly hope you'll reconsider putting them out.
resilient mainsprings, I know sold by by the elgin national watch company, closed in 1968 from about 1850, Waltham I think manufactured sizing tool for ordering/installing/replacing clock main springs, the largest diameter/smallest opening quadrant gives spring thickness, the three larger opening quadrants give spring width: the slider pin, between the cam and fixed/adjustable pin is missing: leaf coil springs were inserted in the gap in the 'handle' and the cam rotated until feelerguage type drag felt. thickness could be read between the butt end of the pin and the cam wheel, the screw in the end of the handle was for adjusting the fixed pin against a known standard supplied with the tool clock springs weren't forever; constant flexing often broke the spring at the hole punched in the centre springs were supplied in dozen boxes to clock maker/repairer if a wrong sized spring (= wrong force) were installed no amount of adjusting the pendulum length made the clock run correct
Hey @mrpete222 Think endmills, drills and other tooling that you'd normally just grab with your hands. This would eliminate A. getting your hands oily when removing/installing tooling in a spindle and B. eliminating the possibility of hand injury by bare-handing sharp cutters and such. It might also prolong the life of tooling since you won't be transferring moisture from your hands to the tool.
I can't believe they couldn't do the windmill in the winter or late fall.. that way they wouldn't have to destroy that mans crops. They are probably going to put up a new one and make a total mess of it. I'm going to miss the series. 😢
There used to be a couple of guys had a watch repair shop on W. Jackson Street in Pensacola. They did some work for me on a old wall clock I had. They Let me see their work space. They had one of these things on their bench. That was 10 years ago. Both men are dead now. I miss craftsmen like them.
Mr Pete, I just wanted to let you know that I have enjoyed your channel for quite a few years. Always very interesting to me. Sorry I don't comment often.
Dressing screwdrivers was quite important when this tool was made. Most machine screws and electrical hardware was made for a slotted screwdriver back then, and they didn't have replacement bits.
#1 Is a watchmakers tool to measure the thickness and width of a pocket watch mainspring for sizing a replacement, it is missing the anvil/jaw that would ride up against the cam. It would have a small spring underneath to hold the jaw to the cam. #4 watchmakers casing pliers. For adjusting watch cases "pocketwatch". Sometimes they would get bent or warped. There would have been a pad of lead or leather in the groove kind of a soft jaw to protect the finish of the case when adjusting.
This is to measure the thickness and width of mainsprings for watches. The snail or cam is missing its follower which should be in the narrow slot. Used for fitting a new mainspring. The spring is passed through the opening and is read by the snail when rotated to stop. (either width or thickness.)
I don't understand why this series isn't hugely popular. I find it entertaining and informative. It's also somewhat interactive if your a tool buff. And waiting for the reveal is fun too. It befuddles me what some of the UA-cam audience finds attractive or sometimes offending. Keep doing what your doing Lyle. Never mind the muggles.
I am a plumber and if you need to grip onto a round chrome parts that don’t have flats, I use rubber gasket material and take advantage of as much surface area as you can sometimes using an improvised strap wrench I made a long time ago. Non marring pump pliers are designed for chrome pipe fittings that have flats on them like you might see on the drain pipe under your sink. I just use use a large adjustable wrench. If my friends seen me using a wrench like that I would never hear the end of it.
boy, that windmill blowup real good!!!....... Lyle, this was wonderful video on dressing the wheel on the grinder.... I recently dressed the wheel on my 10 inch DeWalt Radial Arm Saw that I use as a poorman's surface grinder.... I have been using my DeWalt Radial Arm Saw to put 3 flats on drill bits and thread taps....and will have to make a video of how I am doing it....I get a concentricity of about .0015 on the depth of the flats.....using a hexagon 5c collet holder to hold the drill bits or taps.....no more slipping of taps in my hand drills.....or chewed up drill bits by others in the shop not knowing how to tighten a Jacobs [cheap chinesium chuck] Cheers my friend....Paul
The first tool looks like a main spring winder but if it is that, then there's parts missing. The second tool looks like some kind of grip for soft parts - maybe bronze or plastic tubing fittings. The most intriguing one is the plier/cutter tool - the third tool. Because it was mentioned it had something to do with optics maybe, I got thinking it might be a tool used for shaping glass or tiles. So maybe it could be used to shape bits of glass by say a stained window craftsman. That would explain the tooth but not the square notch on the jaw with the tooth. Maybe that has something to do with shaping the lead for the stained glass windows.
Long time viewers here, we love your videos and really enjoy this series - thank you for sharing all these interesting pieces with us. Will be sad to see it go but look forward to all your upcoming videos as always! All the best, Nick and Naomi.
Guess I will have to find video one so I can properly play _What's that tool?_ *Thank You* for the series and I will absolutely 👍*every* video watched and will try and comment where I can. 🤔
Found the red pliers online far away and they come with plastic jaws with 3 different hole sizes to grab a shaft without marking it. They are for general use and these have the exact same handles only blue. It looks like the jaws are interchangeable.
Hey Mr Pete sorry you’re not getting enough views on this series but we diehard fans will always support you just a thought show a mystery tool for extra credit once in awhile have a great day and thank you so much for all you do for us
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I agree , but try doing " what is it" and the answers the same video. I feel it would be more engaging and getting the immediate an answers will make the video more. interesting and fun
@@kendion4597 I'm pretty sure you mention that he needs more views to guess what's some of the objects are. With that said putting the answers in the same would not work.
I am always in for some extra credit 😂
Just found, liked, subbed, and commented. Here's to a 100k. GO!
This is the very first episode I have ever seen and I am well entertained.
This is akin of me getting into a series on tv by accident, loving it, only to discover that I found it too late and even before I have binged the whole thing learning that it has been canceled. Every. Single. Time.
Upside: I now have 82-ish episodes of something interesting in my playlist :)
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um. Well, I don't ask questions because you always seem to answer the question I'm thinking of. I honestly wish you had this series back when I was in the Navy. My last command I ran the Tool Room. We had a lot of old funky tools no one knew what they were for. The most bizzarre tool we had was a pistol shaped 'gun' that was registered with the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC). The AEC was disestablished in 1974, and that thing had been in inventory since the late 1940s. Might have been a death ray for all I know. All I had to do was inventory it every month and note its last calibration....which was 1968. Did I try to withdraw it from service and have it sent off so I didn't have to do the extra paperwork? Yes. Did any Commanding Officer let me do that? No. "We might need that one day"....which is why its propbably still sitting there....
The whole, "we might need that one day," is my whole mind set, when doing any sort of maintenance or repair.
I grew up with that mindset(along with 'make it work'), but once I got my own house/property, I quickly discovered I can't throw 98% of anything away.
Saving all the odds and ends, has saved me lots of time and money.
I do hate how I feel like a hoarder, but damn, do I hate when I throw something out and 2 days later I needed it. The aggression I have to shake off, while I do the regretful and shameful drive to the hardware/automotive store, can be nauseating. Even be expensive, all because I threw out something I could reuse.
It's a curse and a blessing.
As for item #3 I've got a similar tool. I inherited mine form my Grandfather who was a master machinist, from WWII eraa until his retirement in the early 1980s, for various aviation defense dept. contractors. Because of the nylon jaws they are used to remove or replace Amphenol connectors on aircraft with out galling the threaded locking barrel. I still use them on aircraft.
I used my Craftsman side-feed table like yours to hollow-grind every one of the regular screwdrivers in my tool chest - no more messed up slots on screws! I had it mounted on a dedicated grinder along with a craftsman drill-bit sharpening jig on the side of the wheel - it became one of the most used work-stations in my shop - sharp, straight, and square tools are a real pleasure to work with...
This is the first video I recommended by the algorithm. Don't be discouraged, things take time. You seem to have a wealth of knowledge and understanding, and passing that down to the youngsters is noble character trait. Thank you.
That last tool looks like it would be a useful accessory on a lathe for fine tuning a piece.
#3 are called "soft jaws". They are used for tightening and removing radio communication connectors that have a knurled exterior surface, instead of flat surfaces like a bolt that you can use a common wrench to tighten or loosen. They are quite common in the telecommunications biz and used on the fittings for coax and antennas on tower sites.
I personally enjoy this series and hope to see more of it.
Another great video. You keeps maken the videos, I’ll keep watching them. Your a good man Mr. Pete.
Good morning Mr. Pete, I have always enjoyed this series. It will be sad to see it go. Keep up the great work !
+1 lol
a hollow ground flat head is really useful in gunsmithing
Help not stripping flat head bolts
Lyle, I really hate to see this series go away. I really like yelling at my screen when I know what the tool/thing is.. I'm really good at identifying stuff but you frequently have something I really scratch my head over. I personally have an item I can't figure out (I sent you a couple of pics some time ago, you didn't know either). Don't give up on this series, there's a lot of folks that really like it..
I love this series being an old tool hound myself. Keep 'em coming Mr. Pete!
The grinder attachment could be quite handy, great price. Thanks for sharing Lyle.
for sure !
Good morning Mr. Pete!
The grinder attachment is interesting. A complex design, but as you mentioned, not very rigid.
I use hand planes, but would not use my grinding wheels to sharpen the irons, they are too coarse. I have used a grinding wheel to hog off metal when restoring a hand plane when the iron was really messed up by previous owners. I then use my normal method of a Veritas jig to hold the iron and various fine grits of wet-dry paper on a surface plate to get a sharp edge and 90 deg to the side of the iron.
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I like the basic idea of the design, it is almost like a super small scale surface grinder.
I would probably change up some of the details of the design but this is something I am working with right now for a slow speed diamond lapping system I am putting together
I don't comment because a lot of times I just don't know. This is a great series. Please don't stop.
Watching your videos reminds me of Mr Duckworth, a retired man that lived down the road back in the 70s. Every boy in our small neighborhood knew and respected him. If you have the will to learn he was eager to teach. It's not the number of people it's the amount of impact you have on them. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Hi Mr Pete, I inherited a larfe chest of Stanley tools from the 1950's. They had never been used, never been opened and were in the original boxes. Every wood working tool you could think of including a lathe and a very early electric drill.
It is disappointing that this sort of video does not have a wider following. I always find them fascinating. I have always been a tool maker, use whatever is handy,to make or modify the tool to make the job easier. . I will suggest to you that, as little as I like the shorts format, that doing one tool in under thirty seconds might catch on. Call them Mr. Pete's puzzlers. The wider audience is so ignorant of what is out there something as obvious as a Robertson screwdriver is a puzzle to most Americans. Throw out a new one daily.
Thank you for the idea
I really like and enjoy watching your comments on old tools. It's a great way to improve my vocabulary. English is a second language for me. Merci beaucoup.
Yeah Mr. Pete you are awesome, I’m 33 and been starting to do a lot of tool and car work in my garage. In i really appreciate your videos of your bench vices. Hope all’s well with you. God bless
Love that grinder attachment. And thank you for demonstrating it.
The mainspring tool is missing the movable point that goes in the slot. The cam rotates and moves the sliding point and you use the space between the moving point and fixed point like a micrometer. The small screw on the end of the arm is used to zero it out. It is used to measure the width and thickness of the mainspring. The numbers are metric notation. These days I just use a micrometer. I have a wind farm north of me with 25 of those. If I recall they were installed around 2010 and a couple have already failed. Then 2020 the town tried to force two of the farms to give up their property for a solar farm. Until that company went belly up like the opponents pointed out the various solar companies tend to do.
Thing is you can have solar and a farm. Got a solar farm near me that has sheep & cattle grazing on it, no need for mowing and the animals appreciate the shade. There are also plans for one growing berries or some sort, they plant them under the panels to get partial shade. That seems to be getting popular.
Sounds like someone in the town council was getting a kickback from the solar company.
@@j.f.christ8421 The routine here has been that Company A comes in, files the paperwork and gets the town/landowner on board saying "look at what you get paid and we will not be doing anything to change the property." Then the crew arrives and they dig the topsoil off the field(s) and sell it, then level things up and toss a cheap grain seed like rye on it and build the solar farm.
As soon as it goes online the company collects a big check from the feds and within 6 months they file for bankruptcy and the company goes up for sale. Company B buys the farm and takes it over, BUT they won't honor the original contract because they are a different company. So the landowner get's screwed and the town does as well because all the things they were to receive evaporate as well. Then after 6 months company B puts the place up for sale as a low cost of service facility and company C buys it.
Very interesting, I love learning about odd tools I have never seen before and your entertaining personality is definitely a bonus. Thanks for the video!
I am sorry I have never commented. I never commented because I didn't know what the tools were. But I am an interested viewer and subscribed for years
Thanks, enjoy the series very much, just not enough to go back and watch all the oldies I've missed before finding these small treasures!
Thanks for always trying to educate us you do this country a worthwhile service! GOD BLESS YOU ❤
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#4 Former professional (and current hobby) machinist, and current optician here. Like any good tool, it IS for what ever you use it for. That being said, it is likely NOT a frame adjustment plier, though it could be used for certain specific adjustments I am sure. More likely, it is a lens BREAKING plier. Old frames with glass lenses, depending on the design, needed to have the lens broken into multiple pieces to remove the old lens, so the new lenses could be put in place. Also, some opticians prefer to break out the demo lens from a semi-rimless frame, rather than try to get a finger nail under the nylon retention cord. Pliers like that would be nearly perfect for splitting a lens. My lens cracking pliers are a Concorde Model #5027. Main difference being they are a sharp point and cup jaw setup ass opposed to the wedge and recess of that pair, but mine are also not intended for glass lenses, so that would likely be the reason for the design difference. Just a professional educated guess though.
YOU ARE SO , SO CLOSE...They are rimless compression pliers for putting the lens in the frame.
@@jamielee9350 I have 3 different designs of those rimless bushing pliers... And if the pointy jaw had a small groove or flat, I might agree, but coming to a point like that pair does, it would crush instead of cup the bushing. Maybe it would work for setting and peening the brass rivets for twin riveted hinges, but I've always done those with a tack hammer.
Please keep going with your video's! I really enjoy the old stuff, it brings back memories of my childhood with my grandfather and father.
I used pliers similar to the red handles ones when in the military. We called them "sweet lips". They were used for removing twist connectors on electronic equipment. Most were made with slip joints for different size connectors.
Nailed it. Cannon plug Pliers.
Yep, I work in electrical and that was my guess.
For turning plastic cable gland nuts which are fluted.
Internet Archive has a Waltham catalog and an excerpt of a mainspring tool.
My dad got me hooked on tools as a kid.. I love this series. There may only be a few thousand of us die-hard enthusiasts here, Mr Peterson, please understand this is a dedicated core group of tool junkies watching, and that we just love this stuff.
Thank you very much. I never thought of it that way.
Keep on going tubal. There are people older than you who are enjoying your channel and the knowledge you have. Start making stuff. I want to make something!!!!!
"That grinder attachment is pretty dam nice"
Wish our tool and die shop had one, we had diamond dresser blocks for the surface grinders. A diamond round for the Gorton cutter and cylindrical grinders.
But none for the post grinder, never could get a concentrate dress with the cast star wheel hand dresser!
Edit - Do agree that something is missing on the clock tool. Prehaps someone will be able to forward a catalog photo of a complete tool.
I must of missed 82A video. I must of been skipping class. Was probably out back 🚬
I recognized the blade sharpening guide but not the others. I really like this type of videos and think they're fun and interesting.
Just popped up in my recommendations and watched the whole thing enthralled, especially with the demonstration of the grinder jig by Craftsman.
Here's hoping more people discover your channel!
Thank you very much
Lyle - Count me as one vote for liking the What Is It series. Always find them interesting and learn something in every one.
I’m addicted to Mr. Pete’s videos so always watch every one. That pliers tool looks wicked. Maybe for gripping that old impacted jaw tooth out (ouch). Probably have to be tied down for that one.
now you've given me another useful tool to hunt around to find, that grinding guide is exactly the solution I've been searching for to achieve what I need ground.
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Hey, don't knock hollow-ground screwdrivers! They're less likely to cam out so anyone who has a jig like this would use it. One feature missing, though, is the ability to flip the workpiece over without losing its lengthwise position, so your screwdriver is ground the same amount on both sides.
Even better for gripping than hollow-ground would be a screwdriver ground to the hollow-ground shape but by holding it sideways against a crowned grinding wheel. This would leave crossways grinding marks which would further help with gripping the screw head.
Gunsmiths love these screwdrivers that are hollow ground. It allows a screwdriver with flat parralel sides to slide all the way to the bottom of the screw's groove and prevents the crown of the screw head from being mashed and spread apart when pushing down hard with the screwdriver. The screwdriver also contacts the screw head groove across the whole groove so their is less chance of scrapping the edges of the groove when the screwdriver's head pops up (cams) out of the groove. These hollow ground screwdrivers used by gunsmiths are very pricey but worth it.
The better the fit between the screwdriver and the groove the better. This tool would also be used to take a screwdriver that is too thick and grinding it down to have a skinnier screwdriver head that would now be a perfect fit. If the screwdriver is too thin, then you would grind the tool head down to make the shaft shorter and then hollow grind the two sides again.
If the screwdriver's shaft has four sides it would be simple to flip it over and slide it left/right in the jig to keep the faces of the screwdriver head parallel and true. If the shaft is square but the head is not parallel to the sides then you can use the V-grooves for alignment. Six sided screwdriver shafts work the same. Gunsmiths hate it when they scrape a screw head and remove some of blackened surface because customers expect the blackened finish to be unmarred. They would then have to blacken a tiny screw. If the screw head is stripped along the groove then they would have to make a new screw or special order the replacement screw. There are no replacement screws available for old or antique guns. An old hex key can be repurposed into a flat grind screwdriver too, so you don't need to start with a screwdriver. On round shafts you would have to grind one side flat before using the flip technique.
I don't have a fancy tool like this grinding attachment in my home shop but every once in a while I need to preserve a blackened, rare or oddball screw so I carefully do the same procedure manually on my grinder or with a Dremel. My hand made version would never be as true, parallel or precise but my hand made tool it much better than nothing and normally prevents me from ruining a special screw.
Watches, medical instruments, scientific instruments, and decorative items often need this special kind of care for their screws to preserve the finish or keep from stripping the groove. All big box screwdrivers come with sloped sides rather than flat parallel sides and often result in damaging screw heads. I don't care about damaged screw heads on normal everyday items so flat head screwdrivers are not used until the situation really needs it. If I had this attachment, I would want to buy a new cheap dedicated grinder because it would take me too long to setup and breakdown.
Like others have said, this is the first video of yous that was ever recommended to me. Keep on making them if you can, it takes time to get traction.
Hi 👋 Mr. Pete..Thanks for the demo of that grinder attachment.. What was the deal with that wind mill?
Having used similar tools
Item 2, I agree that the calibration follower is missing. And yes it will measure thickness of most anything. Considering the guides wound flat springs would be a good use
Item 3 Looks like a set of Cannon Plug Plyers. The new ones use curved jaws and not replaceable plastic blocks.
agreed they look like the softjaws we use to assemble circular connectors with cad plating.
This is a great series, im excited to see this continue if you find the energy.
A Gunsmith would actually hollow grind a screw driver! We pretty much exclusively only use hollow ground, precision sized by width and thickness, screw drivers and driver bits. I would love to have that tool just for that purpose and a few others I would use it for like truing the grinding wheel because we require them to be quite accurate also. It's definitely pretty neato, I've never seen another apparatus quite like it in modern times.
Number 4 is very similar to a tool I still have in my toolbox, from many years ago when I was a marine mechanic. It is used ti remove the lock washer on Mercury outboard and inboard/outboard propellers.
I was in the Navy and I worked with weapons systems, some missile systems make their connections via what are called cannon plugs. These are multi pin connectors that screw in place. Number 3 looks like a pair of cannon plug pliers to men and the size adjustment is form different size cannon plugs.
The funny looking pliers could be a nosepad adjustment plier for opticians.
That grinder attachment looks like the sort of thing that you'd use in the workshop if you are on a fixed wage.
---- actually, it is the sort of thing you used if you wanted sharp tools - those came from an era when even 'home owners' could repair things and everything wasn't disposable - very similar items to that sharpening jig are still available but few folks have the skills or desire to learn to use them
I inherited the Craftsman grinding tool along with many other woodworking tools from my uncle's estate. I kept it for many years and finally got rid of it. I never knew what it was for. This was pre-internet days. I really like the dressing capability you demonstrated and would have kept it for that purpose had I known. Other than that, I now have much better tools for sharpening plane irons and chisels.
And I personally appreciate the "what is it" series and disappointed they are not viewed more and made it worth your while. Thanks.
Thank you very much
That grinder attachment is pretty darn nice....yup, screw drivers should be hollow ground to provide flats to drive standard screws. As for the torture device, who holds on to them after a few days of use? : )
We would always sharpen our pencils on our bench grinder at work as I enjoyed how sharp I could get pencil.
Excellent series, hope more people find it
..All a bit of a Mystery.. The Mystery-Tool series are a testament to the ingenuity of man and well worth a second view and more scratching of viewers heads.
Apparently 82b is the answer to the view enigma as discussed in 83a, now all we need to know is .....why....
Regardless, all very enjoyable , instructional and satisfying and similar key wordings.
Excellent.
Pleas Sir, can I have some more?
Well Done mrpete222
Training the trainer? fun!
Thank you Lyle for your commitment to recording your knowledge for posterity. ..seriously!
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I used to use one of those craftsman tools to sharpen blades, chisels, cutting tools for for lathes and sharpening old mower blades For dressing the wheels, you don't need to move the tool to the other side, you swap the wheel to be dressed to the side with the tool attached. It's just a nut that you remove, or a screw. You dress both on one side of the grinder. It was mainly for more stability in sharpening certain tools for a straight, clean edge.
I think the Waltham main spring tool is used for making new main springs. These main springs are normally flat springs to take up little space in a wristwatch or small clock.. The shaft at the center of the spring rotates one direction until the spring stops its motion and starts rotating the shaft in the other direction acting like a pendulum in a grandfather clock. These main springs are also used to store energy by winding the spring to its limit and then using it to power the movement in the watch. This energy storage technique was before batteries and was needed on clocks smaller than grandfather clocks that used weights and gravity to store energy. A straight piece of spring steel (flat or round) wire would come from below the handle, then go down the groove in the handle and finally be inserted into the hole on the dial face or through a hole in the center shaft of the dial. Then you could spin the dial or spin the handle to wind the spring steel into its flat spiral shape. The measuring dial could help answer the question about how relatively strong a new main spring is by knowing the thickness, width and coil winding gap. If you make a new spring and it is too stiff or weak then you could vary one of these parameters when you make the next spring. Keep going with this repetitive process until you get a main spring you are happy with. This tool would be valuable on an assembly line where you want to make multiple springs to the same specs from the same spring steel. This tool would also be needed when you get a new batch of spring steel from your supplier and need to figure out how to make more new springs that are similar to the old spring's specs..
It’s not a mainspring forming tool. This mainspring gauge was marketed to watch repairers and jewelers to measure and select an appropriate replacement spring. The edge of the cam disk is precision ground. The sliding caliper jaw that indicates against the disk is missing from this example.
I'm pretty sure tool #4 is a glass breaker.
First I was unsure, because You really can't have much glass to break, because the jaw's so shallow, and the ones I used had the U shaped cavity perpendicular to the handle, but once You said optometrist, that makes perfectly sense, since a lens doesn't have much meat on it and it's more precise.
If it is, You'd use it as follows:
You score the glass with a diamond glass cutter, take this tool and align it with the scratch so that the tooth (it looks rather pointy) is right under the scratch (the scratch is on the surface facing You) and either flat end of that - let's call it - 'anvil' is touching either side that's divided by the scratch. Then You simply push the handles together and the glass will break cleanly right at the score line in an upside down V shaped motion.
The grinder attachment is really well built. Thanks Mr. Pete.
Good morning Mr Pete. I guess that turbine wasn’t needed. John
I've got a diamond dressing tool for grinders that rides the front edge of the tool rest and you just slide it across the face of the wheel. It has 2 different sides for different width tool rests and a knob to feed the depth of cut on the nib. Very handy. I've had it for at least 20 years, it's not old yet. The mainspring tool looks like it is for measuring spring stock size and then bending the ends in the slot. The radius relief suggests relief for spring back when making the ends of mainsprings. The screw and slide would be for gripping while bending.... my 2 cents.
Excellent video series. Sorry to hear it may end. You seem to have explanations, so there is little room for questions. Thank you 😊
Hi, I just wanted to tell you that I enjoyed your video and thank you for taking the time to make it and share it with us all 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Dear Mr. Pete, I always enjoy the What is it? mystery tool series! It is always a challenge to figure out what some of the tools are, which I enjoy!
I'd love to watch you make a replacement handle for that awesome sharpening jig.
@MrPete222 - Tool #4 looks familiar to me. It's not anything I have owned or used personally, but I believe that I have seen it used with livestock to install ear tags. One part of the tag's strap would lie in the channel and the point would drive the stud through the ear and lock it in place. I'm probably wrong. It is more likely to be used by a jeweler or optician.
"Not interested in sharpening, but the stone needs to be ready". Love it.
Your tools have to be ready to go.
🗿 I've been to many auctions. You've been bringing us those items that made me go hmmm , trying to determine what they were for. Thanks for sharing these, sorry they didn't peak more intrest... Tip of the hat to you, MrPete 👍
If another what is it came up,, I'd probably be one of the 6k🌘🌒
Mr. Pete, I really enjoy these videos. I'm kinda old school but still working, no one else seems to want to.
Those pliers may be a set of Cannon plug pliers. for a larger diameter. Just slide the jaws out and reverse. there may have also been different inserts for different sizes.
Always appreciate the lessons. They dropped a tower around here as well. Installed in the fall, burned in the winter and they blasted it to fell it. Also heard that there are problems with all the towers in that installation, but I don't know what the outcome will be. I heard that the fiberglass that spread after the nacelle burned is causing problems as well with the farmland below it. Funny (not really) that you never see them in the more monied parts of a state.
Be sure, and watch my two-part video this weekend on the windmills. I just told that to my wife, the other day, they don’t build these things on Cape Cod.
@@mrpete222 Ah true. Up north of the Adirondack Park in NY, there are hundreds of these. All on farmlands. Farmers make income from the leasing though. One farmer just does grass for feed because he get residuals from the dozen windmills on his land along with having a celltower attached to his silo. But I never realized they demolition them like that... guess faster/cheaper than bringing in crew, crane, logistics...
I have a much older hand saw blade sharpener that is much simpler than the one you are showing. LOVE the "WHAT'S IT" videos!
Hey friend, I really like your videos! It’s great to see someone passing on the knowledge that has been learned over a lifetime! I truly hope you keep it up and keep at it! We don’t think this is a failure at all.. if even one person learns something you have already done more then most! Please keep at it, your amazing, with a wealth of knowledge and understanding we could all learn from! Thankyou for your time and effort, it has not been in vein, i really hope you stick around!
Thank you very much for your encouragement
Just found this channel today. I hope you keep this series going...
I hope so too!
It may not have occurred to you that the reason more people don't comment is that we simply don't know the answer. Nobody wants to seem like a fool with an "I don't know" in the bylines. It's no fault of yours. I personally think these videos are great. I honestly hope you'll reconsider putting them out.
resilient mainsprings, I know sold by by the elgin national watch company, closed in 1968 from about 1850,
Waltham I think manufactured
sizing tool for ordering/installing/replacing clock main springs,
the largest diameter/smallest opening quadrant gives spring thickness,
the three larger opening quadrants give spring width:
the slider pin, between the cam and fixed/adjustable pin is missing:
leaf coil springs were inserted in the gap in the 'handle' and the cam rotated until feelerguage type drag felt.
thickness could be read between the butt end of the pin and the cam wheel,
the screw in the end of the handle was for adjusting the fixed pin against a known standard supplied with the tool
clock springs weren't forever; constant flexing often broke the spring at the hole punched in the centre
springs were supplied in dozen boxes to clock maker/repairer
if a wrong sized spring (= wrong force) were installed no amount of adjusting the pendulum length made the clock run correct
Hey @mrpete222 Think endmills, drills and other tooling that you'd normally just grab with your hands. This would eliminate A. getting your hands oily when removing/installing tooling in a spindle and B. eliminating the possibility of hand injury by bare-handing sharp cutters and such. It might also prolong the life of tooling since you won't be transferring moisture from your hands to the tool.
I can't believe they couldn't do the windmill in the winter or late fall.. that way they wouldn't have to destroy that mans crops. They are probably going to put up a new one and make a total mess of it. I'm going to miss the series. 😢
Be sure, and watch the windmill video on Saturday
I just stumbled on this. It’s great. Thank you, God bless
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I like this series. Thanks for doing this.
There used to be a couple of guys had a watch repair shop on W. Jackson Street in Pensacola. They did some work for me on a old wall clock I had. They Let me see their work space. They had one of these things on their bench. That was 10 years ago. Both men are dead now. I miss craftsmen like them.
Why do we like watching things being destroyed ? The bigger the better ! Keep up the good work Mr. Pete . If I call you Mr. it makes me fell younger !
First time viewer, love the content don't get discouraged. I think number 4 would be a killer set of spring ring pliers for low pressure hose clamps
Mr Pete, I just wanted to let you know that I have enjoyed your channel for quite a few years. Always very interesting to me. Sorry I don't comment often.
Thank you very much for supporting my channel
I love this series don't stop. I can usually identify about 2/3 of them. But I'm 62 and have been mechanical my short life.
Dressing screwdrivers was quite important when this tool was made. Most machine screws and electrical hardware was made for a slotted screwdriver back then, and they didn't have replacement bits.
#1 Is a watchmakers tool to measure the thickness and width of a pocket watch mainspring for sizing a replacement, it is missing the anvil/jaw that would ride up against the cam. It would have a small spring underneath to hold the jaw to the cam.
#4 watchmakers casing pliers. For adjusting watch cases "pocketwatch". Sometimes they would get bent or warped. There would have been a pad of lead or leather in the groove kind of a soft jaw to protect the finish of the case when adjusting.
This is to measure the thickness and width of mainsprings for watches. The snail or cam is missing its follower which should be in the narrow slot. Used for fitting a new mainspring. The spring is passed through the opening and is read by the snail when rotated to stop. (either width or thickness.)
I don't understand why this series isn't hugely popular. I find it entertaining and informative. It's also somewhat interactive if your a tool buff. And waiting for the reveal is fun too. It befuddles me what some of the UA-cam audience finds attractive or sometimes offending. Keep doing what your doing Lyle. Never mind the muggles.
Thank you for your support. For some reason, this particular episode received many more views than usual.
Thanks Mr Pete just found your channel, from old New Orleans 👍
Lyle, my opinion, no type of education is a waste as long as it gets through to one person. Thank you your videos are very educational Sir.
Well said
@@mrpete222 that is coming from another old shop teacher, me
I have that tool griper and I use it to hold/turn items that I don’t want to scratch up. Like you said it’s a well made tool with replacement inserts.
I am a plumber and if you need to grip onto a round chrome parts that don’t have flats, I use rubber gasket material and take advantage of as much surface area as you can sometimes using an improvised strap wrench I made a long time ago. Non marring pump pliers are designed for chrome pipe fittings that have flats on them like you might see on the drain pipe under your sink. I just use use a large adjustable wrench. If my friends seen me using a wrench like that I would never hear the end of it.
Several companies make similar pliers with soft jaws for use on cannon plugs
boy, that windmill blowup real good!!!.......
Lyle, this was wonderful video on dressing the wheel on the grinder....
I recently dressed the wheel on my 10 inch DeWalt Radial Arm Saw
that I use as a poorman's surface grinder....
I have been using my DeWalt Radial Arm Saw to put 3 flats on drill bits and thread taps....and will have to
make a video of how I am doing it....I get a concentricity of about .0015 on the depth of the flats.....using a
hexagon 5c collet holder to hold the drill bits or taps.....no more slipping of taps in my hand drills.....or
chewed up drill bits by others in the shop not knowing how to tighten a Jacobs [cheap chinesium chuck]
Cheers my friend....Paul
Yes, make a video. Sounds very interesting.
The first tool looks like a main spring winder but if it is that, then there's parts missing.
The second tool looks like some kind of grip for soft parts - maybe bronze or plastic tubing fittings.
The most intriguing one is the plier/cutter tool - the third tool. Because it was mentioned it had something to do with optics maybe, I got thinking it might be a tool used for shaping glass or tiles. So maybe it could be used to shape bits of glass by say a stained window craftsman. That would explain the tooth but not the square notch on the jaw with the tooth. Maybe that has something to do with shaping the lead for the stained glass windows.
Long time viewers here, we love your videos and really enjoy this series - thank you for sharing all these interesting pieces with us. Will be sad to see it go but look forward to all your upcoming videos as always! All the best, Nick and Naomi.
Thanks for watching!
Guess I will have to find video one so I can properly play _What's that tool?_
*Thank You* for the series and I will absolutely 👍*every* video watched and will try and comment where I can. 🤔
Thank you very much
ALWAYS. Much thanks Lyle..
Mike M.
I'll miss this series. Always fun. I even know what something is once in a while.
This series is my favorite!
Found the red pliers online far away and they come with plastic jaws with 3 different hole sizes to grab a shaft without marking it. They are for general use and these have the exact same handles only blue. It looks like the jaws are interchangeable.