Well yer catchin some crap for this but you know what? I don't see a lot of folks showing their fuck ups on you tube. What you did by showing yours is help a lot of folks. I salute you man. You got balls. Good luck with your future projects man.
Wow, the gap in there, a 747 could fly thru that. Too much gap without the proper thrust washers caused the failure, causing everything else with the locker to fail. Too bad. Live and learn. Thanks for sharing.
I have had a Lokka in the rear of my landcruiser for over 400,000 Km with no trouble from the lokka . I have broken an axle in that time and the lokka is still functioning fine
Thats how mine sounded with stock spider gears. Got home opened up the diff cover and seen broken tooth off of one of my spider gears. I can now get a lunch box locker in it now. Thanks for the vid.
Hell i ran a spartan locker in my tj dana 35 for years . Helped alot plowing snow and sold the jeep with it in there. Never off roaded with it. But lasted me 5 years
Yeah that pin to spacer gap is crucial for the locker to work right you have to measure it per the instructions. I just put in a Lokka myself. Thanks for posting this video showing what happens if the tolerance are out.
I came over from the D&E video specifically for this video. that bit when you are on the trail is really hard to watch with all the banging but it is a great video to show what can hapen. thank you for posting
Spinning one tyre well not always drive the other. These work by the centre rod pushing out on the 2 centres into the axle gears. Without that extra pressure you are only using the weak spring pressure which is weak to allow slip while turning.
Kudos to you for posting a mistake. It sounded awful on the trail. I could just tell you were pissed off. Seriously, thanks for posting it. most people wouldn't! I've broken stuff TOO!! LOL
Later on I ended up breaking my 35 and the carrier cracked. I’m thinking the carrier had been wearing and eventually went out. Torq masters told me excessive play in the carrier could lead to the locker not working also so there’s a couple variables that could have lead to the cause of it not working.
I ended up breaking my Dana 35 later on and swapped out with an 8.8. It’s a welded diff currently but I may change to an Aussie style locker or selectable locker if I feel like getting fancy haha
Splines on one of the sleeves of the locker are worn out. As soon as you got on the trail the locker tried engaging but was slipping every time it tried to lock. The guy sold it to you because of this problem. auto lockers inherently wear out after so long because the way they work is based off a certain amount of play between the gears and the center pin from the factory after a while the space becomes gradually larger making the locker useless.
Its slipping because the gap between the 2 sides is too big allowing the teeth to disengage....he didn't put the shims on from the original spider gears which created this situation...tells you in the instructions how to install them properly and check the gap, 2 things that wasn't done in the video, installing the shims, and checking the gap prior to putting the cover back on....cheating the system will result in failures LOL.
Sure thing! I never measured when I did my front locker and it turned out fine but when something like my case happens, it’s best to just check everything up front so you don’t have problems later on. Please consider subscribing to my channel if you haven’t already! Good luck with the install!
That wasn’t the problem. He didn’t use the shims and it left too much lateral play. That’s why the pinion and teeth were ruined. Then he didn’t put the spiders back in properly and ruined the rest of the diff.
I’m guessing when you got the used locker you didn’t have the install guide. It is pretty clear on the measurements. Thanks for sharing. It can be so frustrating getting into something new. So far, I’ve had an awesome experience with these lockers.
“Follow directions to a T and don’t cut any corners.” This. I feel it’s glossed over but it’s very important, it’s like failing to set backlash correctly then whining about wear or breakage. Hard lessons, are always the most valuable.
U should do the 8.8 ! Get one with a 3.5" axle tube and disk brakes ! You can get them from 1995+ ford explore if u want about the same width. But now is your chance to go full width ;)
I put a spartan locker in my 8.8 behind my yj, no need for thrust washers and I just threw it in, measured with a digital caliper and was just within spec. Got it from amazon warehouse specials for $130 but I think they're $240. I haven't watched your video yet but if it's not locked yet I recommend it!
i did 8.8 under my xj with the spartan locker and 4.88 gears :) best thing i have done yet ! i kind of wish i did full width axles for better stability, since i did a custom rear and had to remove the front to re-gear, sleeve tubes, weld tubes to housing, reinforce knuckles/control arm mounts, and change to long arms ... oh, and i paid $225 for my spartan :(
@@MrMrsregor I agree i just installed a spartan locker in my 71 c10. Best upgrade so far burnouts are way better. Seems to lock and unlock when needed. Makes noise clunks sometimes these are all things I expected and am happy with. I was looking to fix my uneven tire wear.
If you ever overload and round over the splines on the shaft from your transmission to your t-case, it will make a very similar noise and feel. Trust me, I’ve done it. I would bet that basically the metal had just enough flex (like .002”) to allow the teeth to skip, but barely so, causing a brutal hammering on the differential. I would worry about the fatigue it could have caused to the axle shafts as well at that point
Yes you do, you have to place them on the new gears before you install them. They are there for a reason to help close that gap...if its still outside of the max gap specification you would need to add additional shims, which usually only happens if your axle is severely worn out to begin with. Simply putting the shims in that weren't installed originally would have corrected the issue.
@@jacobhendrickson8935 You use the shims that were already in the differential when you took it apart. Occasionally when people disassemble them they lose a shim or multiple shims and don't realize it and the result is a poor performing limited slip or horrible differential noises.
Improperly installed locker without measuring the gap = locker not working properly every time. Not the fault of the manufacturer, just someone not reading the directions, tells you in the instructions to check the spacing, and to add shims if needed to get the gap within the spacing tolerances needed to properly work. Too much gap like in this instance and you get that clicking as the locker keeps disengaging itself because there's not enough pressure on those springs to keep it engaged.
3 years ago I know, but I think that your 0.195 gap wasn't the issue, I am currently running a torq locker and I am also supposed to be between 0.140-0.170. But with the shims that came with the kit I am at 0.194. They are gonna send me more shims soon to fix my issue but they said 0.195 is "OK". I blame the fact that it was used.
Yeah my Spartan i just put in yesterday was at .175 and the tolerance is .145-.170 Im not super worried about being 5 thou out of spec and i called them and they said it should never have a problem.
More than likely the PO did the same and didn’t install it properly and then sold it to you. These types of parts are tough to buy used. Hard to measure the wear and just not enough savings to make it worthwhile. I just bought a Lock-Right new from Advance Auto Parts for a 12 Bolt for $244 plus shipping and got it in a day.
I saw the video on how these pop under normal driving and can lock up randomly and make you change lanes, I spent the extra money and went with a Detroit truetrac. works good but gets weird when one tire comes off the ground. basically a gear driven posi so it needs force to lock
on a thing called ytube,it shows you how to install,everything,you didnt put the side shims in,did you.some have them,some dont,depends on the diff & the locker.
well I weigh 7,000 lbs so its perfect haha. For your case? it's extremely overkill. Now if you like hitting rocks at 50mph, you might consider a 14 bolt. Your build, Dana 60's are considered overkill but really sick. Dana 70's on your rig, people will start to ask why...
I’m sure any gear related store should have those. I’ve ordered from east coast gear supply a few times for different gear related purchases. They might have some.
Hello, I am a Italian boy, i will install on my AMC 20 a similar diff-lock. what was your mistake? the space between the flanges and the pin? was there too much space?
That was one of the issues. The other issue was the carrier was too worn. The centering pin had too much play. Actually more issues than one that played a part
He didn’t use the shims. That was the cause. It wasn’t the carriers fault at all. Mine has over 250k miles on it and then I installed a locker with no issues.
Hi mate, i’ve installed Lokka the rear diff locker on my 2WD Hilux, do you think it is ok if my truck do a burnout while the rear diff locker is connected?
Sorry yo see your having these problems, something I learned a long time ago (old time hot rodder ) the hard way ,don't buy someone else's junk and problems ,try to buy new stuff those lockers are not that expensive new good luck
did you install the thrush washers on the outsides of the cam gear i wonder if the yj 35 is different from the zj 35 cause i never had any issues when i had that in there i can post a video of it in action
Travis Fair yea I put the thrust washers on the outside but I think I needed to add more to get the gap closer to spec. Plus powertrax thinks my carrier was a bit worn. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@stickyicky2120 no it won't. The Dana 44 has a 8.5in ring gear and the ford is 8.8in. The Dana 35 is just over 7.6in. No matter how strong of axle shafts you put in it still has a puny ring gear.
@@lol123321123321 Ring gear isn't the Dana 35's weak spot, the housing is weak in comparison. The leverage a tire over 33" has against the housing bends tubes. I'm not arguing that the 35 is stouter than a 44, or an 8.8, or an 8.25 but it's ring gear size isn't it's ultimate fault. The Dana 30 runs a 7.2" ring gear and survives better than one would expect. I'm still getting rid of any Dana 35 I have when running 33"or bigger tires. The 1.18" shafts don't help it either though.
@@mtroadtripper I agree, the reason the Dana 30 is so stout is because it's a high pinion front axle. Going forward the Pinon rides on the drive side of the gear, not coast like a low pinion. It wants to pulls the teeth together rather than apart.
@@jtmoffroad I will agree the video is helpful but there are just somethings you should not buy second hand. I am all for recycle and reuse items. I would buy a bumper or off road lights second hand no problem but a used locker in a box? Not sure I would go for that.
This is a trail for 4WD? The construction sites I work on are way worse. I need 4WD with the traction control off and the rear locked in just to get to work.
That’s pretty sweet you get the opportunity to put your vehicle in 4wd for work! The locker failed earlier in the day and this was just the clip showing the horrendous sound trying to leave. Haha that was def not a trail one would need 4wd for. Check out some of my actual offroading videos. We get into some fun stuff. Thanks for watching!
It wasn't wear from the previous owner. YOU failed to use shims and create the proper clearance. Aussie Locker has been around forever and has a good reputation. INCORRECT installations are not the fault of the product.
Before I add my opinion i just wanted to say thanks for the video because it shows a real life problem that you unfortunately had. So I don't mean anything negative toward you or your video. but yeah that was a major fail. the guy probably sold it to you because he installed it and had the same problem. maybe he put way more miles on it than he said and it was in like a hardcore trail rig and he wore it out. I don't like this type of locker even though I have one , because i feel like based on the design of the locker its destined to fail eventually, its going to chew the teeth up. , my first was a ez locker in a 12 bolt. chevy C10 454 it ran a 13:00. after about a year street driving and racing about 30 passes it started slipping. my second one is in my samurai front axle its a spartan i only ran it one day and so far its working good but I feel like once i start using it a lot it will start slipping too. ok i just finished the video and thats exactly how my ez locker chewed the teeth up on the 12 bolt axle.
These things are like $250 brand new aren’t they? Unless you got it for like $50 I can’t understand why’d you go used on one of these. Doesn’t seem worth the risk.
Haha I’ve got a video later on when I broke the 35. Had to turn around and get the 8.8 I had laying around in in time for another ride a couple weeks later.
why didnt you run 2wd when you could,.id be after a d44 or 9".early mustang width,??.or easy to cut one with 2 left axles,say.i just cut a 44,easy,for my highboy,used a std 80.s jeep shaft.all same.mix match.was 1725,now 1650,with 8 stud.ended same as std 44,just under,i have 36x15.5x16 wheels
Eventually I swapped the rear out for an 8.8 out of an explorer. I couldn’t do front wheel and pull the rear shaft. The rear is a slip yoke shaft so I’d lose all the fluid out of the t case. I mean I could have but that would have been a bad mess. Eventually I’ll be getting rid of the slip yoke and go to a slip shaft and won’t have to worry about that issue again
Thanks for sharing. I can't help but believe the 'main' problem is, that you decided to go cheap and bought some well used junk to install, these were probably well worn out before you got them. It appears you haven't learnt your lesson though, as you're already talking about repeating the exact same mistake, pinching pennies is gonna cost you more in the long run. Buy a brand new Eaton 'E', or something!
You’re wrong. It’s his fault for not installing it right. I bet money he didn’t use the shims! That left a lot of lateral play which caused the damage.
Thanks a lot, man, for showing how those things can screw up. Looks like the previous owner knew he'd worn out the lockers and just palmed them off on you. Bad for you, but worse for HIM. Karma will catch up to him one day and he'll pay for his deeds. On things like these Lunchbox Lockers should be bought new because, from all of my research, they do wear out after a few thousand miles. I've looked into those things because my son-in-law had them put into the front AND rear diffs on his 1981 CJ-7, of which I am now the proud owner. He wanted my 76 Chevy C-10 short-bed, step-side and I wanted his jeep........even stephen trade and we both are happy as clams. lolol. Since I'm not a "mudder" or stump jumper, I'd like to go back to stock set-up in the rear and an OX manual locker in the front. That set up will meet my needs very well. Good luck to you and may you have a Blessed Day.
Huge props to you for posting this video when it's such a frustrating situation! It's so helpful to see a detailed video on when things go wrong.
Anything I do wrong that I can make a video of to help someone else out I think is worth it!
jtmoffroad I applaud you. Most show their triumphs without showing their tribulations along the way
Well... You are helping me! Thanks!
@@jtmoffroad what would be the best locker for my 3.55 rear end on my 99 f150
Well yer catchin some crap for this but you know what? I don't see a lot of folks showing their fuck ups on you tube. What you did by showing yours is help a lot of folks. I salute you man. You got balls. Good luck with your future projects man.
I appreciate that, thanks!!
Wow, the gap in there, a 747 could fly thru that. Too much gap without the proper thrust washers caused the failure, causing everything else with the locker to fail. Too bad. Live and learn. Thanks for sharing.
I have had a Lokka in the rear of my landcruiser for over 400,000 Km with no trouble from the lokka . I have broken an axle in that time and the lokka is still functioning fine
Brent Wickham wow so if properly installed this is ok for a daily driven vehicle?
@@jacobhendrickson8935 yup
Thanks for the vid mate, most wouldn't have posted but your being real and it happens.
Glad you see that and I appreciate that! A lot of others don’t haha
Thats how mine sounded with stock spider gears. Got home opened up the diff cover and seen broken tooth off of one of my spider gears. I can now get a lunch box locker in it now. Thanks for the vid.
Someone will watch this and save themselves a lot of embarrassment at the cost of yours. Thanks for posting
Hell i ran a spartan locker in my tj dana 35 for years . Helped alot plowing snow and sold the jeep with it in there. Never off roaded with it. But lasted me 5 years
Glad yours lasted well!
Thanks for the great video. Now I just ordered the right tools to measure correctly.
Len Nelson glad I could help! Good luck with the install!
Yeah that pin to spacer gap is crucial for the locker to work right you have to measure it per the instructions. I just put in a Lokka myself. Thanks for posting this video showing what happens if the tolerance are out.
Same here. I bought a lockrite 1512 lunchbox locker for my 91 Suzuki. Makes the same sounds and bangs.
Thank you for this video. Went wheeling last weekend and my Jeep is now making the same exact noise!
Ah bummer! Good luck with the fix!
Lol thank you. Also how do you like that Appalachian trailer? Did it hold up good?
Chad Shosten it’s been holding up good so far. Haven’t used it a ton but Ive also let other people borrow it and we haven’t had any issues.
I came over from the D&E video specifically for this video. that bit when you are on the trail is really hard to watch with all the banging but it is a great video to show what can hapen. thank you for posting
I appreciate you checking out the video! I figured it would help a lot of people out actually seeing what could happen if something went wrong
Learning from your mistakes teaches me what not to do. Subscribed.
I appreciate the sub!
looks like you missed some thrust washers bud. Good info for others man.
Yes he did its just barely catching good video 📹
What would it take for you to turn around and leave the trail? When you hear sounds like that it is time to pack it in.
Spinning one tyre well not always drive the other. These work by the centre rod pushing out on the 2 centres into the axle gears. Without that extra pressure you are only using the weak spring pressure which is weak to allow slip while turning.
Kudos to you for posting a mistake. It sounded awful on the trail. I could just tell you were pissed off. Seriously, thanks for posting it. most people wouldn't! I've broken stuff TOO!! LOL
I appreciate it! We all gotta learn somehow!
It wasn’t “wear on the teeth” you didn’t use the shims from the original spider gears to create the proper tolerance.
Later on I ended up breaking my 35 and the carrier cracked. I’m thinking the carrier had been wearing and eventually went out. Torq masters told me excessive play in the carrier could lead to the locker not working also so there’s a couple variables that could have lead to the cause of it not working.
Didn't put the shims back in with the OEM spider gears either
exactly
@@jtmoffroad
What part of Wv ?
@@BigDOOMson Instructions say not to use shims! NOT!
was the worn cross shaft the culprit? great video . Thank you
ace ventura master mechanic !
I love my Aussie Locker, you should try a new one. I bet youd have better luck.
I ended up breaking my Dana 35 later on and swapped out with an 8.8. It’s a welded diff currently but I may change to an Aussie style locker or selectable locker if I feel like getting fancy haha
Splines on one of the sleeves of the locker are worn out. As soon as you got on the trail the locker tried engaging but was slipping every time it tried to lock. The guy sold it to you because of this problem. auto lockers inherently wear out after so long because the way they work is based off a certain amount of play between the gears and the center pin from the factory after a while the space becomes gradually larger making the locker useless.
Its slipping because the gap between the 2 sides is too big allowing the teeth to disengage....he didn't put the shims on from the original spider gears which created this situation...tells you in the instructions how to install them properly and check the gap, 2 things that wasn't done in the video, installing the shims, and checking the gap prior to putting the cover back on....cheating the system will result in failures LOL.
Meh. I’d have shimmed it back to spec and run it myself.
Climbing up the trail sounded just like going to the top on a roller coaster haha.
Going to the top of a roller coaster is much more fun! Haha
😭
Gives me ptsd
Same
Thank you for this this is the first I heard of measuring those tolerances.
Sure thing! I never measured when I did my front locker and it turned out fine but when something like my case happens, it’s best to just check everything up front so you don’t have problems later on. Please consider subscribing to my channel if you haven’t already! Good luck with the install!
Life lesson.
Dont ever buy used diff.parts.
That wasn’t the problem. He didn’t use the shims and it left too much lateral play. That’s why the pinion and teeth were ruined. Then he didn’t put the spiders back in properly and ruined the rest of the diff.
Agreed @bobward
I’m guessing when you got the used locker you didn’t have the install guide. It is pretty clear on the measurements. Thanks for sharing. It can be so frustrating getting into something new. So far, I’ve had an awesome experience with these lockers.
If it's all the same to you, I Lincoln locked I was getting stuck on wet grass.
Limited slip will get you stuck also.
Mine is doing that same thing - but up front in the D30.
“Follow directions to a T and don’t cut any corners.” This. I feel it’s glossed over but it’s very important, it’s like failing to set backlash correctly then whining about wear or breakage. Hard lessons, are always the most valuable.
I seem to learn a lot of those hard lessons haha
U should do the 8.8 ! Get one with a 3.5" axle tube and disk brakes ! You can get them from 1995+ ford explore if u want about the same width. But now is your chance to go full width ;)
Actually did just a couple months ago and I have videos on it!
I put a spartan locker in my 8.8 behind my yj, no need for thrust washers and I just threw it in, measured with a digital caliper and was just within spec. Got it from amazon warehouse specials for $130 but I think they're $240. I haven't watched your video yet but if it's not locked yet I recommend it!
i did 8.8 under my xj with the spartan locker and 4.88 gears :) best thing i have done yet ! i kind of wish i did full width axles for better stability, since i did a custom rear and had to remove the front to re-gear, sleeve tubes, weld tubes to housing, reinforce knuckles/control arm mounts, and change to long arms ...
oh, and i paid $225 for my spartan :(
@@MrMrsregor I agree i just installed a spartan locker in my 71 c10. Best upgrade so far burnouts are way better. Seems to lock and unlock when needed. Makes noise clunks sometimes these are all things I expected and am happy with. I was looking to fix my uneven tire wear.
@@cfmechanic perhaps the uneven tire wear is due to burnouts on an open diff lol
Looks pretty crazy , atleast you kept your cool. I'd be heartbroken 😂😂😂
Safe to say I had a few drinks that night! Haha
@@jtmoffroad 😂😂😂
If you don’t mind me asking Where you wheeling at in WV? We go all over WV-VA-PA etc etc
Good info, I was wondering should you put this in the front or rear? What issue would be the problem on the road if placed in the front
If you ever overload and round over the splines on the shaft from your transmission to your t-case, it will make a very similar noise and feel. Trust me, I’ve done it. I would bet that basically the metal had just enough flex (like .002”) to allow the teeth to skip, but barely so, causing a brutal hammering on the differential. I would worry about the fatigue it could have caused to the axle shafts as well at that point
can you specify more plz?
Thank you for your experience
Bummer, hope you got your 8.8 by now :thumbs up: nice rig brother
I think when u install the Aussie u need to use the shims from the spider gears
Yes you do, according to another review I watched where a guy installed one.
Yes you do, you have to place them on the new gears before you install them. They are there for a reason to help close that gap...if its still outside of the max gap specification you would need to add additional shims, which usually only happens if your axle is severely worn out to begin with.
Simply putting the shims in that weren't installed originally would have corrected the issue.
cf mechanic do they not send shims with the locker to use??
@@jacobhendrickson8935 You use the shims that were already in the differential when you took it apart. Occasionally when people disassemble them they lose a shim or multiple shims and don't realize it and the result is a poor performing limited slip or horrible differential noises.
Been there. Exploded a front one on a rock ledge and it sounded like that for 7mi back to the trailer
Improperly installed locker without measuring the gap = locker not working properly every time. Not the fault of the manufacturer, just someone not reading the directions, tells you in the instructions to check the spacing, and to add shims if needed to get the gap within the spacing tolerances needed to properly work. Too much gap like in this instance and you get that clicking as the locker keeps disengaging itself because there's not enough pressure on those springs to keep it engaged.
3 years ago I know, but I think that your 0.195 gap wasn't the issue, I am currently running a torq locker and I am also supposed to be between 0.140-0.170. But with the shims that came with the kit I am at 0.194. They are gonna send me more shims soon to fix my issue but they said 0.195 is "OK". I blame the fact that it was used.
Yeah my Spartan i just put in yesterday was at .175 and the tolerance is .145-.170 Im not super worried about being 5 thou out of spec and i called them and they said it should never have a problem.
Thank you for sharing this.
More than likely the PO did the same and didn’t install it properly and then sold it to you.
These types of parts are tough to buy used. Hard to measure the wear and just not enough savings to make it worthwhile.
I just bought a Lock-Right new from Advance Auto Parts for a 12 Bolt for $244 plus shipping and got it in a day.
I saw the video on how these pop under normal driving and can lock up randomly and make you change lanes, I spent the extra money and went with a Detroit truetrac. works good but gets weird when one tire comes off the ground. basically a gear driven posi so it needs force to lock
Dang man, if I'm driving 6 hrs to wheel on new (used) parts I'd definitely do a test run first.
Unfortunately no place to wheel close by to test and normal driving conditions were fine
Dam rough ride If you ask me. I gotta check mine because it seems to be getting louder
on a thing called ytube,it shows you how to install,everything,you didnt put the side shims in,did you.some have them,some dont,depends on the diff & the locker.
Might be why it was on craigslist. I use the detroit myself, 400 bucks, and its solid. been goin on 2 years now. no issues.
In your Dana 35? How’s it run? I’m working on my 8.8 now so I’ll either run the welded gears or get a new carrier and run a mini spool
jtmoffroad oh no... I have a 14 bolt. Equivalent to the Dana 70 and 80. Stronger than the 70 but not the 80
Oh very nice!! Hopefully I’ll get to that point someday. That’ll be in the very long, distant future though haha. How do you like your 14 bolt?
well I weigh 7,000 lbs so its perfect haha. For your case? it's extremely overkill. Now if you like hitting rocks at 50mph, you might consider a 14 bolt. Your build, Dana 60's are considered overkill but really sick. Dana 70's on your rig, people will start to ask why...
Haha my bad I meant get to the point of having beefier axles in general. Won’t happen in quiiiite a while haha
If you had shims on the spider gears your suppose to reuse them and it will maintain the spacing
sounds great. where are the shims that go on each side to set the proper width?
I’m sure any gear related store should have those. I’ve ordered from east coast gear supply a few times for different gear related purchases. They might have some.
Hello, I am a Italian boy, i will install on my AMC 20 a similar diff-lock. what was your mistake? the space between the flanges and the pin? was there too much space?
Please help me
That was one of the issues. The other issue was the carrier was too worn. The centering pin had too much play. Actually more issues than one that played a part
He didn’t use the shims. That was the cause. It wasn’t the carriers fault at all. Mine has over 250k miles on it and then I installed a locker with no issues.
I would have as much faith in a used condom as I would in used differential parts.
always remember to check the Gap and tolerances
@@leomenchey3726 on the diff or condom?
@@armandovela4415 both
I’m meeting with a guy later to buy a used locker 😅 the price is too good so worth a shot.
I mean you can recycle condoms you If you just Turn them upside down and shake the f*%k out of them
You’re supposed to put the shims in from the spider gears.
Hi mate, i’ve installed Lokka the rear diff locker on my 2WD Hilux, do you think it is ok if my truck do a burnout while the rear diff locker is connected?
Yes
LOL! the camera view is unreal!! The sounds and shaking it captured. I can't imagine what it was like inside!!
The sound was so loud too haha. When I rewatch the video I cringe every time!
Sorry yo see your having these problems, something I learned a long time ago (old time hot rodder ) the hard way ,don't buy someone else's junk and problems ,try to buy new stuff those lockers are not that expensive new good luck
Why dont you go with limitless slip if your not into rock climbing
I have a welded 8.8 now
did you install the thrush washers on the outsides of the cam gear i wonder if the yj 35 is different from the zj 35 cause i never had any issues when i had that in there i can post a video of it in action
Travis Fair yea I put the thrust washers on the outside but I think I needed to add more to get the gap closer to spec. Plus powertrax thinks my carrier was a bit worn. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Facepalm as soon as I heard locker and 35 in the same sentence.....lol
Sometimes you gotta just try things out for yourself despite what everyone says hahaha
A s35 kit w/locker will make that d35 stronger than a d44 or 8.8
@@stickyicky2120 no it won't. The Dana 44 has a 8.5in ring gear and the ford is 8.8in. The Dana 35 is just over 7.6in. No matter how strong of axle shafts you put in it still has a puny ring gear.
@@lol123321123321 Ring gear isn't the Dana 35's weak spot, the housing is weak in comparison. The leverage a tire over 33" has against the housing bends tubes. I'm not arguing that the 35 is stouter than a 44, or an 8.8, or an 8.25 but it's ring gear size isn't it's ultimate fault. The Dana 30 runs a 7.2" ring gear and survives better than one would expect. I'm still getting rid of any Dana 35 I have when running 33"or bigger tires. The 1.18" shafts don't help it either though.
@@mtroadtripper I agree, the reason the Dana 30 is so stout is because it's a high pinion front axle. Going forward the Pinon rides on the drive side of the gear, not coast like a low pinion. It wants to pulls the teeth together rather than apart.
Sounds like you had too much clearance between the 2 sides Might have needed a shim on both sides.
How much money did you really save over all?
Lost some money of course in the end but learned a lot and was able to make a video to help others out.
@@jtmoffroad I will agree the video is helpful but there are just somethings you should not buy second hand. I am all for recycle and reuse items. I would buy a bumper or off road lights second hand no problem but a used locker in a box? Not sure I would go for that.
Shouldn't the springs be inside the caps pushing the cap against the opposing sides of the locker?
Yes, I think that was the main problem lol
This is a trail for 4WD? The construction sites I work on are way worse. I need 4WD with the traction control off and the rear locked in just to get to work.
That’s pretty sweet you get the opportunity to put your vehicle in 4wd for work! The locker failed earlier in the day and this was just the clip showing the horrendous sound trying to leave. Haha that was def not a trail one would need 4wd for. Check out some of my actual offroading videos. We get into some fun stuff. Thanks for watching!
Same here. Sites i work at can be bad
Guys. Read the directions! Down load them if its a used part and you don't have them. Measure twice because your happiness and cash are at stake.
It wasn't wear from the previous owner. YOU failed to use shims and create the proper clearance. Aussie Locker has been around forever and has a good reputation. INCORRECT installations are not the fault of the product.
Pretty clearly said I messed up and didn’t install it properly
He said he installed it wrong. He never blamed the product. Apparently you missed that part.
Before I add my opinion i just wanted to say thanks for the video because it shows a real life problem that you unfortunately had. So I don't mean anything negative toward you or your video. but yeah that was a major fail. the guy probably sold it to you because he installed it and had the same problem. maybe he put way more miles on it than he said and it was in like a hardcore trail rig and he wore it out. I don't like this type of locker even though I have one , because i feel like based on the design of the locker its destined to fail eventually, its going to chew the teeth up. , my first was a ez locker in a 12 bolt. chevy C10 454 it ran a 13:00. after about a year street driving and racing about 30 passes it started slipping. my second one is in my samurai front axle its a spartan i only ran it one day and so far its working good but I feel like once i start using it a lot it will start slipping too. ok i just finished the video and thats exactly how my ez locker chewed the teeth up on the 12 bolt axle.
Thanks for the input and appreciation for the video!
These things are like $250 brand new aren’t they? Unless you got it for like $50 I can’t understand why’d you go used on one of these. Doesn’t seem worth the risk.
Yea I got it super cheap. That 35 is long gone and I have a locked 8.8 now.
I think my front is failing but my tires are bigger than rated
Missing shims?
What part of Wv was it ?
Greenbrier
Omg I wouldn't be laughing either lol
Live and learn, huh Bud?
thebiggestmac no doubt, only way to get better!
Specs are important
So you think these will work good in a 2017 F150, both axles?
Maybe the rear not the front
Chowdered.
Yet another craigslist deal
Probly did it in the sellers rig so he sold it to this guy
You’ll be alright putting a “locker” in a 35 if you are going through some sand or maybe a couple of really smooth small mud puddles.
Haha I’ve got a video later on when I broke the 35. Had to turn around and get the 8.8 I had laying around in in time for another ride a couple weeks later.
why didnt you run 2wd when you could,.id be after a d44 or 9".early mustang width,??.or easy to cut one with 2 left axles,say.i just cut a 44,easy,for my highboy,used a std 80.s jeep shaft.all same.mix match.was 1725,now 1650,with 8 stud.ended same as std 44,just under,i have 36x15.5x16 wheels
Eventually I swapped the rear out for an 8.8 out of an explorer. I couldn’t do front wheel and pull the rear shaft. The rear is a slip yoke shaft so I’d lose all the fluid out of the t case. I mean I could have but that would have been a bad mess. Eventually I’ll be getting rid of the slip yoke and go to a slip shaft and won’t have to worry about that issue again
Did you take it out of 4 wheel? Looks like a 2 wheel road to me?
You kept on driving because?
When the issue started it was apparent something was wrong with the rear axle. Just had to try to get out of the woods and to the trailer.
Ahh trailer, I would have done the same. I'm used to driving to the trail, different mindset.
Yup! Glad I trailered too cause it was a 7 hour drive one way haha
oah man.. sounds like its gonna break ur axles lol
Aussie Locker "Made in the USA" o_O
Dump it and put an elocker in. I like them more than the ARB lockers and hate lunch box units.
That axle eventually broke in a later video and I replaced it with an 8.8 with a welded rear end. Works great so far! E lockers are the goal though
missing washers i think. gap might be in mm not inches
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High lift jacks are dangerous. Large bottle jack with max tracs and a winch is the ticket.
so was the problem of not using the stock thrust washers? or even when using the thrust washers the locker didnt come in to spec?
I can smell the gear oil watching this video!
that ride would have given me ptsd
Yea it wasn’t a good time at all haha
Aw shit.. that noise.. poor axles.
Haha I know... that rear axle finally bit the dust and has been replaced by an 8.8
The hard lesson learned is this - read the directions & follow the directions during the installation. You failed to do both. The gaps are EVERYTHING.
Did a wicked jeeps event hoping to meet ya but u didn't go lol
Unfortunately I don’t get out much hahaha
So how long did the d35 last b4 breaking
Once I put 35’s on it only lasted a couple trips. Got an 8.8 in now!
I think u need the dana44 HD lunchbox. It's thicker than reg dana44
Depends if the spine count is the same but I wouldn't think so
i bought one by mistake it dont fit std d44.
Thanks for sharing.
I can't help but believe the 'main' problem is, that you decided to go cheap and bought some well used junk to install, these were probably well worn out before you got them. It appears you haven't learnt your lesson though, as you're already talking about repeating the exact same mistake, pinching pennies is gonna cost you more in the long run. Buy a brand new Eaton 'E', or something!
You’re wrong. It’s his fault for not installing it right. I bet money he didn’t use the shims! That left a lot of lateral play which caused the damage.
Yea I didn’t measure like I should have
I like how it is failing and he just keeps destroying it.
Had to get to the trail head somehow. I trailer so it wasn’t an issue.
Yeah D35’s are not worth putting a locker in anyway Sounds like a thrust washer issue
Thanks a lot, man, for showing how those things can screw up. Looks like the previous owner knew he'd worn out the lockers and just palmed them off on you. Bad for you, but worse for HIM. Karma will catch up to him one day and he'll pay for his deeds.
On things like these Lunchbox Lockers should be bought new because, from all of my research, they do wear out after a few thousand miles. I've looked into those things because my son-in-law had them put into the front AND rear diffs on his 1981 CJ-7, of which I am now the proud owner. He wanted my 76 Chevy C-10 short-bed, step-side and I wanted his jeep........even stephen trade and we both are happy as clams. lolol. Since I'm not a "mudder" or stump jumper, I'd like to go back to stock set-up in the rear and an OX manual locker in the front. That set up will meet my needs very well. Good luck to you and may you have a Blessed Day.
Thanks! Lesson learned I suppose haha. Sounds like you got the good deal! Thanks for the good luck and same to you!
What part of WV?
Wait for the big boom
Grab your lunch box boy!