Brew Day With Braumeister 20L - Red Ale, All Grain Home Brew
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2016
- My very amateur video of brewing with my Braumeister. It's a little long and I ramble a bit but if you're looking to getting one of these hopefully you find it useful. Enjoy!
Nice video I must say.Very concise and everything explained about the braumeister.I was on the fence for a while and ended up buying a grainfather due to the price difference not to mention the exchange rate.What finally made up my mind was the power requirement in that the grainfather is plug and play with no need to change a plug or get a power transformer.
Thanks for the video and happy brewing.
Thanks Andy. Nice demo. I just ordered the BM20 yesterday. I'm sure my nerves will be a wreck on the first brew. Back in the 70s I did some extract brewing on the stove top. I was 15, I'm 60 now :P It's been long time. I have the SS fermenter also. I'm going to go with a bucket for the first brew. I can't do too much new stuff at one time. My little mind overloads.
Glad you enjoyed it. Congrats on the purchase, you'll love your BM 20. Just take your time with everything and make sure you give it a good cleaning right away when you're done!
Hi Andy! Nice video, just subed to your channel!
Agree, the lid should be removed when boiling the wort. The longer the time period that wort remains above 140F can cause DMS to reform, as well. Bamforth has a good article regarding DMS.
It is a good idea to skim off hot break as it forms, the stuff causes a negative impact on the final product. When hot break ceases to form add bittering hops.
Andy F, purchase a pH meter and obtain the data sheet for the malt that you are intending to purchase before purchasing it. The data sheet is produced after malt is tested and the sheet comes with every sack of grain produced. It is an indispensable tool used by a brew master. Home brewers are not aware of its existence neither are the owners of an HBS.
When grain is soaked in hot water for a predetermined time frame and at a single temperature the brewer must assume that the various enzymes within malt work harmoniously during a single temperature, single pH and during a single rest period. The brewer must also assume that Mother Nature created malt that does not vary from season to season, farm to farm. Malt of that nature does not exist. To produce anything except for home made beer a more advanced brewing method is needed than the single method. Enzymes are responsible for liquefaction, sacharification, gelatinization, dextrinization and conversion and for enzymes to create those five things it requires a more advanced brewing method and time and time is hard to come by these days. So, in order for the home brew and craft brew empire to become what they are today marketer's have convinced brewers who have very little knowledge about what it takes to produce Ale and Lager that it only requires a simple method and a compressed brewing schedule to produce any style of beer. When the single method is used in the brewing industry it is used in the malt house to test malt.
This is what was produced during the demo: The wort was sugar imbalanced containing mainly sweet tasting, non fermenting sugar and glucose. Since, there was no consideration for reduction of protein or reduction of beta glucan the stability of the final product suffers. A Beta rest was not used causing formation of maltose and malto-triose (conversion) to be drastically hindered and because of that a second fermentation vessel is not required. The wort overly laden with glucose ferments rapidly and since there was no concession for producing maltose or malto-triose the beer will need to be primed or pumped up with CO2. Nothing was accomplished to create body. The release of A and B limit dextrin did not occur because dextrinization rest was skipped. The temperature that is needed to cause the starch that forms body (amylo-pectin) to enter into solution was not used except during the time when mash out was employed which denatured enzymes. The starch will carry over reducing stability. Limit dextrin are tasteless, non fermenting types of sugar responsible for body. The beer, lacking body will not age well.
Next time try this. This is schematic only and will vary depending on the amount of grain that is used. If the grain bill is 10 pounds remove 3.25 pounds. Place the grain in a kettle and add 1qt/lb RO water at 60F. Allow the grain to become saturated. During that time the inherent pH of the malt will reduce the pH of the RO water to 5.7/5.8. If crystal or black malt is incorporated pH will be lower. If necessary add sauer malz and reduce pH to 5.5. The pH favors Beta.Test pH before and after adding the sauer malz and keep a record of it. Place the kettle on a stove and increase the heat to raise the mash from 60F to 122F, proteinase will kick in. After 15 to 20 minutes increase the temperature from 122F to 155F and rest the mash at 155F for 20 minutes. This is a saccharification rest, during the rest Alpha will release sweet, non fermenting sugar and glucose. After 20 minutes passes test the mash liquid for starch by using iodine. If the iodine color is blue/black wait another 10 minutes and retest for starch. If the iodine remains blue/black not to worry. Then, begin to boil the mash without scorching it. Boil the mash for at least one hour skimming off hot break as it forms. Boiling will burst amylo-pectin and reduce protein gum. OK so far? Now, getting back to the urn add enough water again at 1 qt/lb and heat the water to 110F. With 20 minutes left during the one hour boiling period of the decoction add the remainder of the malt into the urn and reduce the pH of the mash to 5.5 with sauer malz. The mash temperature should be around 95 to 100F. When the boiling time reaches one hour add the decoction back into the mash in the urn. The temperature to reach is 130F, crank up the water heater if the temperature is below 130F but do not raise the mash above 135F. Proteinase will work on beta glucan and glucose will form. Rest the mash at 130F for 20 minutes and crank up the heat to reach mash temp of 140F. Beta will be active and it will begin to convert glucose into maltose and malto-triose. Rest the mash at 140F for 30 minutes and crank up the heat to 150/153F. When you crank up the heat add sauer malz and reduce mash pH to 5.2, the pH favors Alpha. The mash will jell and enzymes will cause dextrinization and body will form. After 20 minutes at 150/153F increase the heat to 158F and rest the mash for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes passes crank up the heat and raise the mash temp to 162F and rest the mash for 10 minutes. Dump boiling water into the mash to reach mash out temp. Stir the mash a couple of times and allow it to rest. A layer of mud will form on top of the grain bed. Begin sparge and lauter slowly as not to wash the mud into the extract. Sparge until run off drops to 1020. As soon as the bottom of the boiler is covered with wort add a minute amount of hops and fire the boiler. The hops will reduce surface tension and less hot break will form. Skim off hot break as it forms. Boil with the lid off until hot break ceases to form, then add bittering hops and once again skim off hot break. Boil with the lid off for at least one hour after bittering hops were added. When producing Ale reduce the wort temperature to 55F and use a couple of vials of liquid yeast and maintain fermentation temperature between 50 to 55F for ten days. After 10 days pump the beer into a second fermentation vessel and keep the beer in secondary for two weeks at 50 to 55F. After 2 weeks use CO2 to push the beer out of the fermentation vessel into a CO2 purged keg. There will be no need to prime the beer. During the aging phase yeast will absorb malto-triose and enzymes contained within yeast will convert the tri-saccharide back into glucose and natural carbonation will occur when the glucose is used as fuel. Sample the beer after two months. If carbonation is low allow more aging time. Although, only a single decoction was used at least the mash passed through several temperature ranges of the enzymes. The idea behind brewing beer is to produce a clean, stable and balanced wort. To accomplish that it requires using the tri-decoction method and a few hours of hard work in the brewery.
Wow! Thanks so much for the information Michael, I really appreciate it. I'll try some of this for sure in my next brew day!
You never needed to get a power transformer. Just a couple of different cords for the BM so it can plug into your stove or washing machine plug in
you use straight RO water? You dont add any salts? Also boiling with the lid on is not a good idea..that steam should be allowed to escape to remove DMS and other unwanted compounds that would otherwise condensate and drip back into the wort..really cool video though
Thanks Chris! I do just use RO water and the beer turns out fantastic. Appreciate the tips too!
Hi! Thanks for the informative video! I´ve already got the Braumeister 20 but am still reluctant to use it since I don´t really have a clue how to continue after having it put into a fermenter. You´ve got that pretty nice fermenter from speidel as i see. Do you have to fill the "young beer" into bottles or another container afterwards? How do you solve it?
Before you got that stained steel fermenter, did you use some simple plastic one - and in that case what were your expreiences with it. Thanks in advance and cheers!
I myself ferment in a corny keg.Just use a pipe cutter to slice off about 4 inches off of the liquid tube and hook up some tubing to a gas out ball lock.No need to drill a hole for an airlock.Since the corny keg has a dished bottom once you cold crash it all of the trub sits at the bottom right below the liquid tube.I hook up my CO2 cylinder to the gas line and force transfer it to a serving keg.A used corny keg will cost $40 which is far cheaper than a conical and it works just as well though it takes up a lot less space.
Great information Andy - thanks - it is great to see how easy it is to brew - btw where did you get the finer grain mesh screens from ( you mentioned these did not come with the BM 20)
Second question Andy - how good is the beer compared to can extracts?
Great Video. Ordered mine black friday. Will be here tomorrow, can't wait. Where did you get the dolly from? I've been looking for one like you got.
I just got it at the local hardware store called Canadian Tire. I checked for you the only branding on it calls it "Ultra Cart" and it's made in California.
I did not get how much grain and what kind you put in there.
so cool....are they expensive ?
did you have issues with the hot break and boil over? I'm looking to buy a Braumeister as well, but with my current setup, as I reach boil temperature, it starts to foam up and I need to turn of my kettle so it doesn't boil over, and then turn it back on again and do this till the hot break is over..
Does this have issues like that? Cause it being an automatic system, I doubt you can just turn it off and on again and it'll resume where it left..
I did have a problem when I left the lid on for the entire boil it would tend to boil over. At the hot break though, I have never had an issue. If you did encounter an issue my fix would be to just slide the lid over a bit and create a space for some of the heat to escape.
Even though it is an automatic the system it's forgiving. You can stop the brewing at any time and it will pick up right where it left off. Hope that helps!
I actually mentioned it at 18:22 in the video - check it out I've never had a boil over since I've done this.
Hi, nice video! Where did you get the rubber seal from the top screen? greetings from Germany
Hi Dirk, I just bought it on Ebay. Here is a link:
www.ebay.ca/itm/Silicone-Vacuum-Food-Grade-Translucent-Rubber-Tube-Beer-Water-Air-Pump-Hose-Pipe-/321335857328?var=&hash=item4ad11c10b0:m:mhWBM9iTzt6dxW8-T7eW3fw
I hope it helps!
Good Video Andy, I just received my Braumeister 50L and learned a lot from your video. A question I have is how do you calculate how much sparge water to use with this? Do you have to start your mash with water up the the 25L line? With my old system I mashed with a ratio of 1:25 qts per gallon for a 22lb batch that would be 27.5 qts or 26L which is just under 7 gallons. But Braumeister tells me to fill to the 55L line which is like 14 gallons, then do I still need to sparge?
Sorry for the late reply, hopefully you got it by now. I do fill it up to the 25L mark. It works great :)
i fill mine to the 55l line and in the end with no sparging i end up with around 10.5 gallons. thanks for getting back to me, cheers
did you adapt the top screen with the seal?
I just bought a piece of food grade tubing from eBay. it was the easiest way to make sure it was held in place.
Good job Andy. I am going to need a step-up step down here in my apt in US. What wattage did you get?
Hi Thomas, I checked out the model that I have and here is the link to the website. Let me know if you have any questions about it. www.powerbright.com/vc3000.html
Thanks Andy- reviews of the su/sd units were all over the place on reliability, so i got a 5500 watt unit. Good to know your 3000 works fine. My B 20L arrived yesterday. Your video is a great assist- helps relieve some of the blind date anxiety. TG