🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. ☕ Help support me on Patreon -www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte (includes Discord access).
Thanks Charlie a proper great tip as a avid DIY'er . Its one of those tips were your left wondering why have I never done it like the way you show on the clip. Been watching your site for years and always my go to for advice. Thank you your a star 🌟
Great stuff Charlie, just what I need. One thing - the other piece of skirting into the corner, assume its just a but joint into the corner and the scribed end does all the magic.
A great sanding trick indeed on Gosford handyman is to spray glue a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of skirting, making sure it goes into the profile. Now you have a sander in the profile of the skirting to fine tune to corner edges.
Just been doing my skirting and after seeing your previous videos went for MDF. I went with a square profile with 2 grooves cut in at the top. For the internal corners I used a 18mm (thickness of the board) router bit set to the depth of the grooves. This created a notch for the joint and any gap on the top from not being 90deg can be easily filled with the vertical joint being tight. Ended up in A&E for 13hrs after slitting my thumb with a Stanley knife while cutting back a notch for a radiator bracket!
@@CharlieDIYte all good, not the first time and sure it wont be the last! Work offshore so had to get it seen too. However the office decided to delay my next trip.
I have watched so many videos cutting in this way. BUT. A BIG BUT. Your video is the only video to explain it well and makes sense ( I understood exactly how and why) others left me scratching my head! Brilliant I will be on this at the weekend! Another great video. Thank you.
It took me a while to work out what was going on here. I couldnt understand what the point of the mitre was but then it clicked. This is a brilliant technique thanks so much!
Nice, thanks for that handy tip. I just use a dremel with a sanding barrel on it. Makes very light work and you can really get into those curves easily.
Thankyou so much for this video... Easy to understand, straightforward and extremely time saving!!! Our corners have worked out a treat!!!! AMAZING!!! 😊
Your almost there for perfect cope fitting. One more tip butt the skirting up against the wall were its going to be fitted and adjacent wall and scribe with a compass . If the floor or wall are out of plumb the scribe will be at a angle. Now cut to the scribe line with miter saw. I hope you can make sense of this description 😁
Hi Charlie, good clear tip on this some times difficult job, I don't think I've ever found a 90 degree corner in any house I've been in ,lol, so this method would take alot of frustration out of fitting skirting boards. Cheers mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Just what I needed!!!! I’m a skilled panel beater so I’m pretty handy but I would never have arrived at that method so thanks, my new oak skirting boards will thank you!!😊
instead of the 'previously' 0:48 part shown just draw the profile on the back of the board instead and cut it that side. job done! :) no need for this mitre scribing nonsense people do. **I hope you see this and try it...then do an update on this update Charlie LOL it also allows for compensating by slotting into/onto existing skirting boards that are wonky top or bottom to the wall if needed(a mitre cut ends up limiting it to a flat 90 degree cut along the end resulting in a gap either top or bottom if mitred (ik you can fill but a flush snug wood joint is always best)
wood is forgiving(even softwoods especially) when the fibres are deformed with a hammer. I use a ball peen hammer as the round end can form curves. delicate impacts/bangs can shape the wood to fit if not exactly 90 degrees as you was showing by then sanding. does the job and also helps seal the end grain from absorbing moisture at the joint with it being compacted with the woods natural fibre resins...
sealing of end grains like this is a really old practice. I live in a really old house and I see all the old joists deformed/sealed this way. even architraves for doorframes and windows I've removed to restore/repair plaster are sealed the same way. it clearly helped make wood last hundreds of years from personal observation. my dad originally showed me it.
Thanks for the video Charlie. My coping saw skills are proving to be pretty awful (doesnt flow properly and it's taking chunks out of the wood) and the scribed skirting isnt joining the other piece nicely. Does anyone have any tips on how I could rescue or best to start again? It's also not sitting flush to the newly plastered wall, which is driving me nuts - in caulk, we trust.
If you have to do a lot of scribes I was taught to do what is shown in the video, by putting a mitre on both ends of a short (4"/100mm) offcut and cut the profiles so there was a scribe on each end. Let's call it the template. STARTING: Fix a board with two square end cuts on the wall opposite the door to the room. For the return, get a length of skirting about 3"/75mm longer than needed and butt it up to the piece that is fixed and using the template held up against the fixed piece, draw a line up the face of the new skirting, (I used to use an old school compass). as long as the flat is marked you can easily put the board on a trestle and re-mark the mould part. Use the saws to remove the waste. You can the measure from the bottom of the fixed skirting to get the length needed. Either cut it square or put a mitre on the far end as required. Work your way round the room like this and you don't end-up trying to fix a piece with mitres or/ and scribes at both ends. This method is especially handy in old buildings where the walls may not be perfectly plumb.
Hi Charlie, not sure if this interest you, but starret make a brilliant mitre angle finder that works out one cut or joining cuts for skirting, cornices etc. Highly recommend.
Hi Charlie. What method do you find is best to secure skirting to the wall? These days I see them being glued on with low expansion foam. I saw you use small screws before - do these not show pops over time on the surface kind of like how pins always do?
Those hidden screws are about as good as I've found so far as the filling is so easy. No, they don't show any marks. Yes the adhesive foam is good. Done works day you don't need foam with this if you give it a few minutes before pressing the two surfaces together but I think a mechanical fixing is still good, to hold it in place whilst it sets.
@@CharlieDIYte I thought that too but it gave really good result. Normal sandpaper pressed tight into the profile of an offcut with a scraper. Cut the straight bit with chopsaw, coping saw the top section with an undercut leaving a margin to sand back to!
I personally would have my coping saw blade set on the push stroke for scribes, this way it reduces the chance of tear out However, you didn't seem to have this problem in the video.
Yes, whatever works for you I'd say. Hack saws for example have the teeth pointing the other way so it works on the push stroke. Seems counter intuitive having it working on the pull stroke although I have a Japanese shokunin saw that works on the pull stroke too. 👍
The most comprehensive method I've seen involves using a back-cut template against the adjoining wall to scribe the face of the board in situ, then back-cutting from that scribe mark. As far as I can see, what the first step accounts for is the possibility of the walls being out of plumb (meaning the boards will lean in or out). Most of the time, this refinement won't be necessary, and results will be good without it. However, without it, although the boards are coped, it's probably a misnomer to say that they are scribed, as such.
The only problem with the Irwin saw is like any "throw away saw" they dull after a few uses, far too expensive just to chuck away. I use my trusty dovetail saw, which I can sharpen at my leisure.
Thanks buddy. One side tiled and the solar panels went on yesterday. Feeling slightly broken today! Video update to follow but I'd like to keep it to one final video if I can. So it might not be for a week or two.
I am not sure it’s a hard and fast rule about the teeth direction of the coping saw. Many woodworkwers prefer cutting on the push stroke as can offer better control. Paul sellers advocates this for example.
That's a fair point - and I would agree that cutting on the push gives you better control although my Japanese shokunin saws that cut on the pull are excellent. Imaging how good they'd be if they cut on the push!
Just a question, why not get the right angle with a bevel and adjust the saw? It’s much quicker? Just wondering. Over here I’ve never seen somebody do that. Thanx
The tip is great but if you have to do a lot it costs a lot of time. What I do is, have 2 clean 45 degree pieces (like 15 cm or so) putting in the corner and line them up to the wall. The gap will tell me about how many degrees the cut is off, dived that by two and adjust my cutting. I admit it is more or less an "eye" thing but if you have done it a couple of times you get the hang of it. Anyways, thanks for sharing.
I just can't get my scribe to align with receiving end, if I sand one part of the mould it throws another off. This is what I hate about DIY, it's ALWAYS harder than the videos let on
Dont you k ow that you should not cross your arms across a mitre saw bad practice and anyone watching will think it's ok to do this and loose a part of their limbs not good
You're right. If you look at the shot though all limbs were safely out of the way and you'd have to be forensically examining this video to see - if I wasn't wearing a watch you wouldn't know my hands were crossed but I take your point. Normally of course the skirting would be much longer than this sample piece so all limbs would be safely out of the way in any event
Thanks Charlie- an extremely helpful video. Went out to Screwfix to grab one of those saws - for anyone looking for the specific one, it’s Irwin Jack 12tpi Multi-Material Floorboard Saw 13" (330mm) product code 9429X
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools.
☕ Help support me on Patreon -www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte (includes Discord access).
Thanks Charlie a proper great tip as a avid DIY'er . Its one of those tips were your left wondering why have I never done it like the way you show on the clip. Been watching your site for years and always my go to for advice. Thank you your a star 🌟
Thanks so much - really appreciate that 👊
Hi Charlie, Another handy tip is to use an Angle grinder with a sanding pad on. Takes less time and with a steady hand can be very accurate.
Thanks. Yes and I've used my belt sander a lot over the years. With practice you can get very accurate as you say. 👍
Great stuff Charlie, just what I need. One thing - the other piece of skirting into the corner, assume its just a but joint into the corner and the scribed end does all the magic.
A great sanding trick indeed on Gosford handyman is to spray glue a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of skirting, making sure it goes into the profile. Now you have a sander in the profile of the skirting to fine tune to corner edges.
Came to the comments to post exactly this but will "like" this comment instead!
Thanks. Does that not make it slightly too big?
@@CharlieDIYte I think it fine tunes the cut of there is a high spot that is difficult to have a second go at cutting.
Just been doing my skirting and after seeing your previous videos went for MDF. I went with a square profile with 2 grooves cut in at the top. For the internal corners I used a 18mm (thickness of the board) router bit set to the depth of the grooves. This created a notch for the joint and any gap on the top from not being 90deg can be easily filled with the vertical joint being tight. Ended up in A&E for 13hrs after slitting my thumb with a Stanley knife while cutting back a notch for a radiator bracket!
Easily done Richard. I did something similar once chiselling a banister. Put a new chisel through the palm in my hand. Hope you're ok.
@@CharlieDIYte all good, not the first time and sure it wont be the last! Work offshore so had to get it seen too. However the office decided to delay my next trip.
I've watched this repeatedly, and practiced with scrap wood but I'm making a right hash of it so far. You make it look so easy! 😅
Don’t worry you’ll get it if you practice enough 👍
I'm sorry to hear that. How are you getting on with it now? Any better with a little practice?
I have watched so many videos cutting in this way. BUT. A BIG BUT. Your video is the only video to explain it well and makes sense ( I understood exactly how and why) others left me scratching my head! Brilliant I will be on this at the weekend! Another great video. Thank you.
Thanks Ben - really appreciate that feedback and good luck with yours. I have a load to do myself in the kitchen.
It took me a while to work out what was going on here. I couldnt understand what the point of the mitre was but then it clicked. This is a brilliant technique thanks so much!
Nice, thanks for that handy tip. I just use a dremel with a sanding barrel on it. Makes very light work and you can really get into those curves easily.
Thankyou so much for this video... Easy to understand, straightforward and extremely time saving!!! Our corners have worked out a treat!!!! AMAZING!!! 😊
Your almost there for perfect cope fitting. One more tip butt the skirting up against the wall were its going to be fitted and adjacent wall and scribe with a compass . If the floor or wall are out of plumb the scribe will be at a angle. Now cut to the scribe line with miter saw. I hope you can make sense of this description 😁
That's a great tip, especially when adjoining floors aren't dead level.
Robin Clevett has a great video on skill Builder doing this exact method.
Robin Clevett also has a vid completely ignoring this vital stage and doing it wrongly.
Thank you so much
I was searching on UA-cam how to cut ✂️ corners skirting🙏🏻😊
Hi Charlie, good clear tip on this some times difficult job, I don't think I've ever found a 90 degree corner in any house I've been in ,lol, so this method would take alot of frustration out of fitting skirting boards. Cheers mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks Stuart, I appreciate that. Yes that's the point really. Makes the corners so much easier to fit. 👊
Thanks Charlie - that is the best video I have seen on how to scribe cut internal corners.
Thanks so much Mat. Really appreciate that 👊
Just what I needed!!!! I’m a skilled panel beater so I’m pretty handy but I would never have arrived at that method so thanks, my new oak skirting boards will thank you!!😊
Thanks Julian. It's the best way to do them 👊
Never been able to get this right BRILLIANT I’ve had great success cheers
Great work Mark and thanks for letting me know 👊
Great tip. Made getting an accurate cut much easier
Another tip! I tend to use a Dremel with a wood bit to do the final detailing
Yes that's a brilliant idea. I hadn't thought of that have have a Dremel 👊
OMG thank you...much better than scrible from offcuts 😮
You're welcome!
Hi, just to confirm I have understood correctly.
Simply cut the skirting at a mitre cut, and cut the mitered section away?
Thanks for this. So just slice the 45 degrees off it first to reveal the shape, then scribe/cut it out, then fit?!
Thanks
Yep that's about it
What a brilliant video very informative thank you it’s really helped me 👍🏽
Great video buddy! I use a flap disc on a grinder and rub the excess wood away
Ah, good thinking. Thanks buddy 👊
instead of the 'previously' 0:48 part shown just draw the profile on the back of the board instead and cut it that side. job done! :)
no need for this mitre scribing nonsense people do. **I hope you see this and try it...then do an update on this update Charlie LOL
it also allows for compensating by slotting into/onto existing skirting boards that are wonky top or bottom to the wall if needed(a mitre cut ends up limiting it to a flat 90 degree cut along the end resulting in a gap either top or bottom if mitred (ik you can fill but a flush snug wood joint is always best)
wood is forgiving(even softwoods especially) when the fibres are deformed with a hammer. I use a ball peen hammer as the round end can form curves.
delicate impacts/bangs can shape the wood to fit if not exactly 90 degrees as you was showing by then sanding. does the job and also helps seal the end grain from absorbing moisture at the joint with it being compacted with the woods natural fibre resins...
sealing of end grains like this is a really old practice. I live in a really old house and I see all the old joists deformed/sealed this way. even architraves for doorframes and windows I've removed to restore/repair plaster are sealed the same way. it clearly helped make wood last hundreds of years from personal observation. my dad originally showed me it.
Thanks. That's how I used to do it. 👍
Thanks for the video Charlie. My coping saw skills are proving to be pretty awful (doesnt flow properly and it's taking chunks out of the wood) and the scribed skirting isnt joining the other piece nicely. Does anyone have any tips on how I could rescue or best to start again? It's also not sitting flush to the newly plastered wall, which is driving me nuts - in caulk, we trust.
Excellent video Charlie
Thanks Samuel 👊
Have you seen the coping foot attachment for a jigsaw like the one for the carvex
Thank you! Was wondering why using a jigsaw didn't feel very controllable. Are they universal? Mine's a DEWALT DCS335N.
@@Brown969 I think there are others available and works on barrel grip jigsaws like the 335
Thank you dear, that was a great tip…..you take care as always
Thanks Val. You too 👊
Have you done a video on external corners ,thanks
If you have to do a lot of scribes I was taught to do what is shown in the video, by putting a mitre on both ends of a short (4"/100mm) offcut and cut the profiles so there was a scribe on each end. Let's call it the template.
STARTING:
Fix a board with two square end cuts on the wall opposite the door to the room. For the return, get a length of skirting about 3"/75mm longer than needed and butt it up to the piece that is fixed and using the template held up against the fixed piece, draw a line up the face of the new skirting, (I used to use an old school compass). as long as the flat is marked you can easily put the board on a trestle and re-mark the mould part. Use the saws to remove the waste. You can the measure from the bottom of the fixed skirting to get the length needed. Either cut it square or put a mitre on the far end as required. Work your way round the room like this and you don't end-up trying to fix a piece with mitres or/ and scribes at both ends.
This method is especially handy in old buildings where the walls may not be perfectly plumb.
Love the wooden spoon tip 👍
Thanks!
Thank you very much for this helpful tip! Right in time!
Thanks so much for this video!
A vid just in time. I'm about to take on a big DIY project in my home and this video landed at the perfect time. Thanks CharlieDIYte
Glad to hear it. Thanks buddy, and there's this one for fixing the skirting ua-cam.com/video/qhe3Waq6Ac4/v-deo.html
Great vid, easy to understand
Hi Charlie, not sure if this interest you, but starret make a brilliant mitre angle finder that works out one cut or joining cuts for skirting, cornices etc. Highly recommend.
I'll check that out. Thanks buddy 👊
Hi Charlie. What method do you find is best to secure skirting to the wall? These days I see them being glued on with low expansion foam. I saw you use small screws before - do these not show pops over time on the surface kind of like how pins always do?
Those hidden screws are about as good as I've found so far as the filling is so easy. No, they don't show any marks. Yes the adhesive foam is good. Done works day you don't need foam with this if you give it a few minutes before pressing the two surfaces together but I think a mechanical fixing is still good, to hold it in place whilst it sets.
You're a legend bud
Thanks buddy 👊
Do you have a video on how to create your jig?
Great tips Charlie 👍🏻
Thanks, and good to great from you 👊
You can use your mitre saw for that first cut set to 90 degrees and cutting the board upright.
Great video, love it 👍
Thanks 👊
Great tip thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
I have a whole house with lots of internal corners. What’s the issue with just caulking a bit of “no more gaps” into the joints?
You can do that but it just gives you an extra job.
If you are using an offcut of skirting as a template then mark it out on the reverse / flat side of the piece you are cutting
Great tip mate
Thanks mate 👊
Brilliant!
Thanks 👊
Hi Charlie, have you ever used Q-board from B&Q to make a wardrobe? Thanks
No I haven't Victoria. It looks like they're for construction - walls and the like rather than for making wardrobes?
Hi. Couldn’t quite see as too quick, but was the board you presented to also cut at 45•
Nope, it's cut square.
Thanks Sirus.
As Sirus says, the board it's presented to is cut square - which is another advantage of this method.
@@CharlieDIYte No problemo
How would you fill any small gaps? Wood filler cracks over time right?
Small gaps in the corner? I'd use caulk. For screw or nail holes I'd always use a2 part wood filler. ua-cam.com/video/qhe3Waq6Ac4/v-deo.html
Thanks. Great video
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. 👊
I had sucess superglueing sandpaper to the profile of the skirting for the finish
Yes a few people have suggested that. Good tip. Out of interest does it make the profile a bit too large?
@@CharlieDIYte I thought that too but it gave really good result. Normal sandpaper pressed tight into the profile of an offcut with a scraper. Cut the straight bit with chopsaw, coping saw the top section with an undercut leaving a margin to sand back to!
Fantastic - Thanks!!
Cheers Garviel. Good to hear from you 👊
brilliant video thank you
Glad you found it useful. 👊
Cheers mate
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
If you have a circular mitre saw and cut 45° then no point for extra cutting...just add 45 to 45 boards?
It doesn't work if the angle isn't exactly 90 degrees.
I personally would have my coping saw blade set on the push stroke for scribes, this way it reduces the chance of tear out
However, you didn't seem to have this problem in the video.
Yes, whatever works for you I'd say. Hack saws for example have the teeth pointing the other way so it works on the push stroke. Seems counter intuitive having it working on the pull stroke although I have a Japanese shokunin saw that works on the pull stroke too. 👍
That's the way I was taught as an apprentice nearly 40 years ago, always have the saw blade cutting on the push stroke so no tear out.
You're correct.
If in doubt. Caulk it out!
Super tare Bravooo 👏👏👏👍
Thanks 👊
Very neat.
The most comprehensive method I've seen involves using a back-cut template against the adjoining wall to scribe the face of the board in situ, then back-cutting from that scribe mark. As far as I can see, what the first step accounts for is the possibility of the walls being out of plumb (meaning the boards will lean in or out). Most of the time, this refinement won't be necessary, and results will be good without it. However, without it, although the boards are coped, it's probably a misnomer to say that they are scribed, as such.
Fair point. 👌
Can you do a video on fixing a ikea wardrobe to the wall
The only problem with the Irwin saw is like any "throw away saw" they dull after a few uses, far too expensive just to chuck away. I use my trusty dovetail saw, which I can sharpen at my leisure.
Top tip👌
Thanks Mark 👍
Nice! How’s the roof repair going btw? Looking forward to the week 4 video.
Thanks buddy. One side tiled and the solar panels went on yesterday. Feeling slightly broken today! Video update to follow but I'd like to keep it to one final video if I can. So it might not be for a week or two.
@@CharlieDIYte cool 🙂 you’re making progress. Sounds like a big job
I am not sure it’s a hard and fast rule about the teeth direction of the coping saw. Many woodworkwers prefer cutting on the push stroke as can offer better control. Paul sellers advocates this for example.
That's a fair point - and I would agree that cutting on the push gives you better control although my Japanese shokunin saws that cut on the pull are excellent. Imaging how good they'd be if they cut on the push!
Since discovering the angle grinder for coping inside corners, my skirting work has been transformed. I'm terrible with the coping saw. 😅
It's not the easiest tool to operate, the coping saw, I'll agree!
Just a question, why not get the right angle with a bevel and adjust the saw? It’s much quicker? Just wondering. Over here I’ve never seen somebody do that. Thanx
The trouble is, that way the angle is likely to open up if the wood warps or shrinks, but I hear what you say 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Ah, now I see! Thanx for the tip!
Nice 👍
Thanks Brian 👍
Why the 45 degree angle?
It helps you to see the part you have to remove, otherwise you've got to last whitey board on top and draw round which is less accurate.
The tip is great but if you have to do a lot it costs a lot of time.
What I do is, have 2 clean 45 degree pieces (like 15 cm or so) putting in the corner and line them up to the wall.
The gap will tell me about how many degrees the cut is off, dived that by two and adjust my cutting.
I admit it is more or less an "eye" thing but if you have done it a couple of times you get the hang of it.
Anyways, thanks for sharing.
I do so much carpentry by eye too so I know exactly where you're coming from, right down to fine tuning angles with my belt sander. 👍
No internal mitres, cope every time, internal mitres shrink and open up!
Never seen this done using a pencil before no wonder you think the original way is so much better
I just can't get my scribe to align with receiving end, if I sand one part of the mould it throws another off. This is what I hate about DIY, it's ALWAYS harder than the videos let on
I'm afraid it's just a question of practising Brendan. Persevere though. You'll crack it 👊
Hey Brandon how’d you get on in the end??
You'd be surprised how many poorly explained videos I have watched before coming across this one. Thank you
Coping saw blade teeth always point forward. Scroll saw blade teeth face the handle.
Coping saw .. tip from master craftsman Paul Sellers... Coping saw blade he always has teeth forward. .. I tried it, and it's a lot better.
That's probably why I had put the teeth facing forward in the first place 😉🤦
easier to do an under cut called coping
Fair point
Surely you've known about this for years! Must be hundreds of UA-cam videos already explaining this method!
Well there probably are but this is my channel not theirs 😉
Flap disk on a grinder and u never look back
Any good grits to use?
@@Brown969 60 grit is Best 👍
Thanks Mark. Yes a few people have suggested that. 👊
Didnt work for me 😂
Sorry to hear that 😪
Dont you k ow that you should not cross your arms across a mitre saw bad practice and anyone watching will think it's ok to do this and loose a part of their limbs not good
You're right. If you look at the shot though all limbs were safely out of the way and you'd have to be forensically examining this video to see - if I wasn't wearing a watch you wouldn't know my hands were crossed but I take your point. Normally of course the skirting would be much longer than this sample piece so all limbs would be safely out of the way in any event
that's cool mate, but who has time for this? Too much effort and too many tools required
I thought every decent carpenter of or diyer would know that?
You'd be surprised
Thanks Charlie- an extremely helpful video. Went out to Screwfix to grab one of those saws - for anyone looking for the specific one, it’s Irwin Jack 12tpi Multi-Material Floorboard Saw 13" (330mm) product code 9429X
Thanks - glad you found it useful 👊