I think that is the point. Cellulose provides more resistance to air movement and thus loss due to convection. This wasn't a test about "perfect condition" R value, but about why cellulose is likely to perform better in your home than fiberglass.
The parts that could be more done better that pop to my mind watching this: Have a fan in each box, a ball on each out vent, separate the boxes (having two lightbulbs heating the same big chamber makes the better performing option appear farther ahead than it actually is), confirm each fan's power with a voltmeter, do it in a temperature controlled indoor environment (clouds, shadows, wind, etc. outside can affect results), ensure the on-off switches control the fans/lightbulbs on both sides at the same time.
Just to be clear ( and fair !)....the fiberglass performance will be worse....the more compacted it is. No one saying whether (or not) the fiberglass is "fluffed" to the proper density. Anyone can therefore make fiberglass look worse by packing it more densely...and vice versa, can make it look better by less compaction. Since this isn't addressed, we can't really tell if it's a proper test ( or not).
incorrect comparison. the left temperature gauge is higher than the right one which means the right one is closer to the heat source. or am i seeing thinks differently.
RJ- it's gold standard for effectiveness, but not necessarily for cost, total lifecycle, and things like workers being exposed to toxins. There are places (like wet humid basements, where spray foam is appropriate). Spray foam also has a lot more waste (you have to discard what you shave off) and costs more- but there is a reason that's why they make fridges that way. I would even consider blow fiberglass, but never fiberglass batts. Just hard to get the edges and pinch points taken care of.
The main effect here is the blower pushing the warm air through the sparser fiberglass. It’s not conducting much through the fiberglass. It’s air infiltration.
The test is true for cold climates since you install air barrier (poly) from inside. So from outside cold air is coming through siding, holes, cracks and taking heat away from insulation especially on windy days. My house with 2x6 walls and siding is colder than another with 2x4 walls and stucco.
@spblackey The pressure is the same below both regions of insulation. The airflow is following the path of least resistance - through the less effective restriction to airflow. If there were two different fans, you would have to take into account the potential difference in pressure in the compartments due to differences in the fans. They did this the right way.
From what I understand, R-value is a measurement of heat transfer or the resistance to. If they are both R-13, wouldn't they both be the same? This tells me something is different between the two. How could it not be? With a sealed space being insulated, why would there be airflow? Even in a ventilated attic, the ceiling being covered will have a vapor barrier. How would air blow through that? Just my 2 cents of common sense.
If I had to do it again, I would use the brown foam, & get every crack of the framing structure, getting the house "glued together" -strength. I see where they are foaming the inside roof and not the joist now a days. If that works well, i would put flooring in the attic and good access for storage or etc. I also put my air handlers in the attic. I dont know if I would use the white foam, it is cheaper, maybe just the walls, but doesnt have any strength to it. Definetly in the roof.
This is somewhat misleading. With the two insulations sharing the same pressurized space underneath, the air is going to flow to the side that allows air to pass more easily (in this case, the fiberglass.) Because the air is taking the path of least resistance, it makes the cellulose look impervious to air. I don't know if it is, or isn't - I just am saying I would like to see two separate fans and spaces below the insulation.
+Jeremiah Seip "The most misleading aspect of this 'test' is that they ignore the fact that fibreglass batts are woven in layers to maximize performance, in side out, not along the grain (bottom to top) as 'tested' here. (And, the thermometers are way out of level.)" Not really misleading if that's exactly how the insulation is installed in wall cavities. There are more fiberglass insulation tests done where the fiberglass is installed ideally like that in an attic with the heat source above it and once again the fiberglass fails the test.
+imzjustplayin really? then what excuse would you use to explain WALL CAVITY insulation? Is that NOT top to bottom? Your rational makes no sense in that comparison.
Buying a home next month, there is the typical amount (very little) of fiberglass rolls. I would like to use Cellulose, as I have found many sites and companies recommend it over fiberglass batts or rolls, but I was wondering about spray-in insulation. Spray insulation is supposed to be the gold standard, but is more costly. Any thoughts or opinions?
Compressing insulation reduces its r value. When installed how it was manufactured to be installed(properly), fiberglass should not be compressed at all. That’s what makes cellulose a better insulator. The fibers of cellulose are smaller and therefore allow the cellulose to have less space between the fibers, forming a tighter seal wherever it is installed. This is why they added the ping pong ball at the top to demonstrate the difference in air flow between the two.
Because the air is taking the path of least resistance, it makes the cellulose look impervious to air. I don't know if it is, or isn't - I just am saying I would like to see two separate fans and spaces below the insulation. That alone proves it, fiberglass is all big puffs and doesnt set well, cellulose does, I plan to install some in my new here soon.
While I agree fiberglass is inferior especially in an attic. In a wall cavity that is properly air sealed by caulking or foaming the perimeter of the studs to the sheathing and installing something like Certainteed Membrain or Poly deatailed an air barrier (caulked to each stud and the top and bottom plates and then drywalled there would be no air movement. Fiberglass performs well in an airtight cavity. Cellulose should never be used as as the air seal. Insulation’s other than closed cell foam are not air barriers, rather work by convection. R-13 fiberglass will perform better in a 100% airtight cavity than Cellulose in a cavity that has an unsealed wire chase with a hole at the top plate and bottom plate. Wind washed insulation is almost useless regardless of type.
Why every time I see this test. We only see cellulose tested against a fiberglass batt and not a dense packed fiberglass loose fill like the cellulose product?
I don't know where you're located but the most popular insulating technique is well known to be fiberglass batts. Batts are popular because any idiot thinks they can install them properly. The reality is, to properly install the batts around electrical and other obstructions takes a lot of time and care, something completely devoid in most construction.
I used cellulose in my 4K sq ft. home built about 10 yrs ago, ( at 33usd/sqft mind you). I wanted to use foam, but there were no contractors in this area that applied it, unlike now a days. At that time fiber glass was about .33/, cell .66 and foam about .90 per sqft, giving the same R value considering how thick each has to be. I put 8 inches in the attic. The fan in the display is fair, there is plenty of air to go to both sides 2-3x. & the Dept of Energy doesnt know shit!
@@scottdonbrosky5968 who packed the boxes? I could fluff the cellulose, pack the fiberglass, and show your opposite results. Paper is damn near an accelerant for starting fires, what exactly do you put on shredded paper, to make it not burn? Because I start fires with shredded newspaper. Shit can't be good for you, and just who exactly even reads newspapers anymore? I don't trust it. Water and insulation do not mix, and even with water this shit is a mess to install, and a mess to mess with afterwords. Cellulose sucks.
@@normankoch6636 Packed the boxes? Why does it matter? No, it couldn't, the result would be the same. Fire won't start when it's treated with special chemicals. This isn't simply shredded newspaper. Chemicals. Doesn't matter who reads newspaper nowadays; that's a stupid argument. Mess to install sure, but comfort is worth it. I rather take a messy install over an install that doesn't do jack s. Would you rather have a 90F 2nd floor or a 70F 2nd floor?
Well I would say that just proves the point of the demonstration. Fiberglass allows more air through. Let's say they both let air though. In two different chambers the the ball may lift on both materials, now you cant see the difference on which one is more effective
The most misleading aspect of this 'test' is that they ignore the fact that fibreglass batts are woven in layers to maximize performance, in side out, not along the grain (bottom to top) as 'tested' here. (And, the thermometers are way out of level.)
Insulation is really one of the cheapest things to put into a home vs overall cost of building. The concrete and the roof was the 2 most expensive portions. It cost me about 6k 10 yrs ago for cellulose and would have been 9 for foam. Couldnt get a foam contractor then. I would not incorporate some solar, foam, and insulate the concrete pad somehow.
@CobraNuke That was exactly my complaint. It's not an objective comparison, it's a well-crafted marketing tool. (It makes the fiberglass look very bad and the cellulose look very good.) The cellulose isn't challenged at all because it's all going through the fiberglass. That said, I blew cellulose into my attic a month ago.
To everyone that's commenting on having separate fans/cavities for the two products, etc...it would seem that the very fact that the fiberglass is offering the past of least resistance would make the other tests pointless. no?
You decide would you want wool n fiberglass or chemical filled newspaper for insulation, sleep under a blanket of wool or blanket of ground up newspaper ?
It’s not conducting and just travelling through the insulation. Take the fan away and it wouldn’t climb so high. Perhaps you should be air sealing them both. Cellulose May have the edge for air sealing but you need more of it to have the r value they a modern fibreglass has.
I see you have exactly the same amount of insulation for both products. Has anyone taken into consideration that cellulose and fiberglass each have different R-values per inch. Since it takes less cellulose to achieve R factor "X" than you would fiberglass, this example skews your data. If you combine that with the fact that cellulose compacts over time (lessening your R value), you may want to take a couple more aspects into consideration before showing a customer this.
also cellulose is heavily treated with fire retarding chemicals, I wonder the long term health effect of this as fire proofing chemicals are the biggest contributor to poor indoor air quality.
Borate is about as harmful as table salt. Check out the SDS sheets from the cellulose manufacturers -- it's a dust irritant, but not poison. Fiberglass in the lungs is a far higher risk to long term heath, amazingly.
I may have to run my own tests to compare blown in cellulose to blown in fiberglass. This seems like apples to oranges a little bit. Everybody knows that fiberglass batts suck.
I believe that cellulose has better insulating qualities than fiberglass, based on various research. HOWEVER, this video should have been split into 2 tests: 1) Air resistance (as shown with ping pong ball). 2) Heat resistance (turn fan OFF) The video does not conclusively prove to me that fiberglass is more heat-conductive, since fan is blowing hot air from cabinet through path of least resistance (fiberglass). A more convincing test would be to let heat flow naturally from bulbs.
1) for this to be anywhere near believable you would need to use individual fans in completely separate cavities. 2 ) wall cavities ,with few exceptions,do not have pressurized air flow to force heat or cold the through the insulation media. 3) leaving the ball in the left tube increases air flow through the right side further rendering this display rediculous. conclusion...this display was designed to deceive by setting up unreal circumstances that even If it was done in an even handed way still wouldn't come any where near representing results in a real world situation and seriously undermines the credibility of the poster.
i just assumed he had the 2x4 on the right side under the insulation opened up to allow more air and heat in since i couldnt see the little test jig before he started
True about fiberglass batt but he is misleading. Fact to install fiberglass in Blown in Blanket system the same is true of fiberglass as with cellulose.
*No Underwriters or Major Builders including Housebulders, use paper insulation flakes k/as cellulose to insulate their properties, most are worried it will burn, but much more worried about workmen finding electric cables in the roof space afterwards if the houseowner has an electic fault, with cellulose the cables get buried underneath it. Watch the Cellulse videos on YT, they all say remember to leave a 12" UNINSULATED CIRCLE around light fittings and electric light bulbs to prevent fires*, WHY?* ....
REALLLLY??? then who was that that built 50 homes last yr WITH ONLY cellulose insulation?? hmmm??? 12" ... how about 3? you just make things up as you go or what? you do realize the spacing is for FG as well? OR that its required due to making the can lite from over heating and flipping off?? Superior knowledge will ALWAYS show stupidity for the darkness it is. 12" ???? bwhahahahaha... what a maroon as bugs used to say. BTW.. what EXACTLY is a insulation "flake" ? or is that a pipersSOB made up term??
Okai I will agree with you on just one point you make, Celluose does SETTLE better than any other form of insulation. Cellulose contractors (layers) know when first laid it looks to the consumer like 10-12" inches, at this point they insist on being paid (no wonder) and a week or so later its 9", and so on and so forth, and it ends up what was poured out of the bag.Those bags are not that big, so how come just a few BAGS can cover a vast area ATTIC SPACE AREA when its fluffed up like *CHICKEN FEATHERS. Cellulose is no better than chicken feathers*. iN FACT CHICKEN FEATHERS MIGHT BE BETTER.
you mean the scandal of BLOWN GLASS and the FLUFFING that most of its installers use? ( look up CBS news and the report on 60 minutes some years back) ..... You don't understand blown density vs settled do you? its ok... You haven't understood most of what you have spewed here so far. FLUFFED cellulose? It cant happen because of the nature of the material... BUT FG ... you can do it to that all day long. But I'm pretty sure you knew that but just pretending otherwise..( I hope)
*Cellulose IS BLOWN into the loft, it floats gently down like Artic Snowflakes , if the layers took a TENNIS BAT they could SWAT it down to 1 inch, but they don't do they?, The Air Blower they use is a money making machine, it can turn ONE DOLLAR WORTH OF INSULATION into 10 dollars, not even the Federal Reserve can do that. When its laid there's $10 dollar bills everywhere in the attics and a year later the've turned into DIMES, and when your staff leave they are all singing the comapny song from Fiddler in the roof, and that was a miracle too*."
AGAIN.. you lie.. don't you ever stop or do you work for CNN ?.. OK lets go over FACTS.. An AIR LOCK machine locks air OUT and only can PUSH the material thru a hose , it is NEVER "mixed" as you so obviously think it is. Also .. you do not blow into a loft(?) and let it gently fall like "snow" . What is DONE is the hose end is usually no more than a few inches OFF THE material being blown over or the ceiling....any more made up BS you want brought into the light of TRUTH AND FACTS? .....You just cant stand this can you? when superior knowledge bests your imaginary rhetoric.
Another bullshit demonstration. First of all, its not on the insulation to be the air barrier, that's done on exterior with proper wrap and flash. Blowing warm air through the fiberglass is obviously going to spike that thermometer, but doesn't mean fiberglass insulates less in a sealed cavity. Fact is, fiberglass actually has a slightly high R value per inch when comparing actual spec sheets from industry leading brands.
Cellulose is king buddy! @francishoffmaniii4880 your probably one of them techs that sells fiberglass in attics because you can fit more in your truck than cellulose, you guys hate installing this product because your not skilled enough .
*There is two types of fibreglass mat, color yellow or yellow/orange, is used for and made for insulation purposes, it's soft fluffy stuff similat to cotton wool, I have laid maybe a 100 000+ rolls with no bother. The other type is WHITE glass fibre mat used for making glass fibre vehicle bodies, boats and machinary cabs, its SPUN thicker, and got sharp glass needles in it, THE INSULATION MAT is safe, the glass fibre mat is still safe but do wear a mask. A clown on here who sells shredded waste paper as an insulation in knocking fiberglass, yet he has no shame Selling Waste Paper, I am against it, so is the insulation trade and major builders, when we complete a job we know its done right,*
I think that is the point. Cellulose provides more resistance to air movement and thus loss due to convection. This wasn't a test about "perfect condition" R value, but about why cellulose is likely to perform better in your home than fiberglass.
The parts that could be more done better that pop to my mind watching this:
Have a fan in each box, a ball on each out vent, separate the boxes (having two lightbulbs heating the same big chamber makes the better performing option appear farther ahead than it actually is), confirm each fan's power with a voltmeter, do it in a temperature controlled indoor environment (clouds, shadows, wind, etc. outside can affect results), ensure the on-off switches control the fans/lightbulbs on both sides at the same time.
Just to be clear ( and fair !)....the fiberglass performance will be worse....the more compacted it is. No one saying whether (or not) the fiberglass is "fluffed" to the proper density. Anyone can therefore make fiberglass look worse by packing it more densely...and vice versa, can make it look better by less compaction. Since this isn't addressed, we can't really tell if it's a proper test ( or not).
Same thing for the temperature differences - if the air is all going to the path of least resistance, it's also taking the heat with it.
to add to your point, the left chamber is even getting cooler as the video goes along. the air is certainly choosing the path of least resistance.
I absolutely love displays like this!
incorrect comparison. the left temperature gauge is higher than the right one which means the right one is closer to the heat source. or am i seeing thinks differently.
RJ- it's gold standard for effectiveness, but not necessarily for cost, total lifecycle, and things like workers being exposed to toxins. There are places (like wet humid basements, where spray foam is appropriate). Spray foam also has a lot more waste (you have to discard what you shave off) and costs more- but there is a reason that's why they make fridges that way. I would even consider blow fiberglass, but never fiberglass batts. Just hard to get the edges and pinch points taken care of.
The main effect here is the blower pushing the warm air through the sparser fiberglass. It’s not conducting much through the fiberglass. It’s air infiltration.
If I were installing insulation in a wall, the first thing I would do is rip out all the fans at the bottom of the wall cavities!
And get rid of those holes in your roof while you're at it. 😉
The test is true for cold climates since you install air barrier (poly) from inside. So from outside cold air is coming through siding, holes, cracks and taking heat away from insulation especially on windy days. My house with 2x6 walls and siding is colder than another with 2x4 walls and stucco.
@spblackey The pressure is the same below both regions of insulation. The airflow is following the path of least resistance - through the less effective restriction to airflow. If there were two different fans, you would have to take into account the potential difference in pressure in the compartments due to differences in the fans. They did this the right way.
From what I understand, R-value is a measurement of heat transfer or the resistance to.
If they are both R-13, wouldn't they both be the same?
This tells me something is different between the two. How could it not be?
With a sealed space being insulated, why would there be airflow?
Even in a ventilated attic, the ceiling being covered will have a vapor barrier. How would air blow through that?
Just my 2 cents of common sense.
If I had to do it again, I would use the brown foam, & get every crack of the framing structure, getting the house "glued together" -strength. I see where they are foaming the inside roof and not the joist now a days. If that works well, i would put flooring in the attic and good access for storage or etc. I also put my air handlers in the attic. I dont know if I would use the white foam, it is cheaper, maybe just the walls, but doesnt have any strength to it. Definetly in the roof.
This is somewhat misleading. With the two insulations sharing the same pressurized space underneath, the air is going to flow to the side that allows air to pass more easily (in this case, the fiberglass.) Because the air is taking the path of least resistance, it makes the cellulose look impervious to air. I don't know if it is, or isn't - I just am saying I would like to see two separate fans and spaces below the insulation.
+Jeremiah Seip
"The most misleading aspect of this 'test' is that they ignore the fact that fibreglass batts are woven in layers to maximize performance, in side out, not along the grain (bottom to top) as 'tested' here.
(And, the thermometers are way out of level.)"
Not really misleading if that's exactly how the insulation is installed in wall cavities. There are more fiberglass insulation tests done where the fiberglass is installed ideally like that in an attic with the heat source above it and once again the fiberglass fails the test.
+imzjustplayin really? then what excuse would you use to explain WALL CAVITY insulation? Is that NOT top to bottom? Your rational makes no sense in that comparison.
Buying a home next month, there is the typical amount (very little) of fiberglass rolls. I would like to use Cellulose, as I have found many sites and companies recommend it over fiberglass batts or rolls, but I was wondering about spray-in insulation. Spray insulation is supposed to be the gold standard, but is more costly. Any thoughts or opinions?
Clearly you can see how much more compressed the NU Wool insulation compared to the fiberglass
Compressing insulation reduces its r value. When installed how it was manufactured to be installed(properly), fiberglass should not be compressed at all. That’s what makes cellulose a better insulator. The fibers of cellulose are smaller and therefore allow the cellulose to have less space between the fibers, forming a tighter seal wherever it is installed. This is why they added the ping pong ball at the top to demonstrate the difference in air flow between the two.
Because the air is taking the path of least resistance, it makes the cellulose look impervious to air. I don't know if it is, or isn't - I just am saying I would like to see two separate fans and spaces below the insulation.
That alone proves it, fiberglass is all big puffs and doesnt set well, cellulose does, I plan to install some in my new here soon.
While I agree fiberglass is inferior especially in an attic. In a wall cavity that is properly air sealed by caulking or foaming the perimeter of the studs to the sheathing and installing something like Certainteed Membrain or Poly deatailed an air barrier (caulked to each stud and the top and bottom plates and then drywalled there would be no air movement. Fiberglass performs well in an airtight cavity. Cellulose should never be used as as the air seal. Insulation’s other than closed cell foam are not air barriers, rather work by convection. R-13 fiberglass will perform better in a 100% airtight cavity than Cellulose in a cavity that has an unsealed wire chase with a hole at the top plate and bottom plate. Wind washed insulation is almost useless regardless of type.
Why every time I see this test. We only see cellulose tested against a fiberglass batt and not a dense packed fiberglass loose fill like the cellulose product?
+cameron barney Loose Fill Fiberglass is even worse in performance. Hardly anybody does loose fill fiberglass.
Huh.... That's weird because I see wall blown fiberglass more than cellulose
I don't know where you're located but the most popular insulating technique is well known to be fiberglass batts. Batts are popular because any idiot thinks they can install them properly. The reality is, to properly install the batts around electrical and other obstructions takes a lot of time and care, something completely devoid in most construction.
+cameron barney in 27 yrs and over 6500 homes...I have NEVER installed blown glass in a side wall....EVER.
Yeah that's weird, here in Utah it's the exact opposite, I'm in construction and never see cellulose in a wall
I used cellulose in my 4K sq ft. home built about 10 yrs ago, ( at 33usd/sqft mind you). I wanted to use foam, but there were no contractors in this area that applied it, unlike now a days. At that time fiber glass was about .33/, cell .66 and foam about .90 per sqft, giving the same R value considering how thick each has to be. I put 8 inches in the attic. The fan in the display is fair, there is plenty of air to go to both sides 2-3x. & the Dept of Energy doesnt know shit!
Is this true for loose fill fiberglass as well
Fiberglass thermometer is lower, closer to the bulb.
Don’t matter. It’s so minimal it’s ridiculous. Fiberglass sucks
@@scottdonbrosky5968 who packed the boxes? I could fluff the cellulose, pack the fiberglass, and show your opposite results. Paper is damn near an accelerant for starting fires, what exactly do you put on shredded paper, to make it not burn? Because I start fires with shredded newspaper. Shit can't be good for you, and just who exactly even reads newspapers anymore? I don't trust it. Water and insulation do not mix, and even with water this shit is a mess to install, and a mess to mess with afterwords. Cellulose sucks.
@@normankoch6636 Packed the boxes? Why does it matter? No, it couldn't, the result would be the same. Fire won't start when it's treated with special chemicals. This isn't simply shredded newspaper. Chemicals. Doesn't matter who reads newspaper nowadays; that's a stupid argument. Mess to install sure, but comfort is worth it. I rather take a messy install over an install that doesn't do jack s. Would you rather have a 90F 2nd floor or a 70F 2nd floor?
Well I would say that just proves the point of the demonstration. Fiberglass allows more air through. Let's say they both let air though. In two different chambers the the ball may lift on both materials, now you cant see the difference on which one is more effective
Why would I want more air to flow through tough? I want an air seal
Great display! It gives a very good visual idea. Thank you
The most misleading aspect of this 'test' is that they ignore the fact that fibreglass batts are woven in layers to maximize performance, in side out, not along the grain (bottom to top) as 'tested' here.
(And, the thermometers are way out of level.)
Insulation is really one of the cheapest things to put into a home vs overall cost of building. The concrete and the roof was the 2 most expensive portions. It cost me about 6k 10 yrs ago for cellulose and would have been 9 for foam. Couldnt get a foam contractor then. I would not incorporate some solar, foam, and insulate the concrete pad somehow.
Nice jig you made showing simply how effective correct insulation can be.
Where can I buy this demo box???
@CobraNuke That was exactly my complaint. It's not an objective comparison, it's a well-crafted marketing tool. (It makes the fiberglass look very bad and the cellulose look very good.) The cellulose isn't challenged at all because it's all going through the fiberglass. That said, I blew cellulose into my attic a month ago.
Which some settles faster?
What’s the average cost of one of these machines
Comparing loosefill cellulose vs fiberglass batts?? Compare loosefill to loosefill..... transparency vs deception
can you compare sound transfer as well? I am finding all sorts of conflicting info online
ua-cam.com/video/7hH6FgOHEPM/v-deo.html
Cellulose has much better sound absorbing properties.
To everyone that's commenting on having separate fans/cavities for the two products, etc...it would seem that the very fact that the fiberglass is offering the past of least resistance would make the other tests pointless. no?
You decide would you want wool n fiberglass or chemical filled newspaper for insulation, sleep under a blanket of wool or blanket of ground up newspaper ?
It’s not conducting and just travelling through the insulation. Take the fan away and it wouldn’t climb so high. Perhaps you should be air sealing them both. Cellulose May have the edge for air sealing but you need more of it to have the r value they a modern fibreglass has.
Cellulose has a higher R value per inch than fiberglass. It's simply a better insulator.
I see you have exactly the same amount of insulation for both products. Has anyone taken into consideration that cellulose and fiberglass each have different R-values per inch. Since it takes less cellulose to achieve R factor "X" than you would fiberglass, this example skews your data. If you combine that with the fact that cellulose compacts over time (lessening your R value), you may want to take a couple more aspects into consideration before showing a customer this.
9 years later , I’m buying my first home, does your opinion still stand that fiberglass may be better ?
also cellulose is heavily treated with fire retarding chemicals, I wonder the long term health effect of this as fire proofing chemicals are the biggest contributor to poor indoor air quality.
Borate is about as harmful as table salt. Check out the SDS sheets from the cellulose manufacturers -- it's a dust irritant, but not poison. Fiberglass in the lungs is a far higher risk to long term heath, amazingly.
Your a moron borate is 100 percent safe to breath and touch. Eating it isn’t recommended though.
Makes me really glad I bought cellulose to insulate my walls. Thanks for the vid
Don't believe it. We have no idea how tightly packed that blow-in is
I may have to run my own tests to compare blown in cellulose to blown in fiberglass. This seems like apples to oranges a little bit. Everybody knows that fiberglass batts suck.
I believe that cellulose has better insulating qualities than fiberglass, based on various research.
HOWEVER, this video should have been split into 2 tests:
1) Air resistance (as shown with ping pong ball).
2) Heat resistance (turn fan OFF)
The video does not conclusively prove to me that fiberglass is more heat-conductive, since fan is blowing hot air from cabinet through path of least resistance (fiberglass). A more convincing test would be to let heat flow naturally from bulbs.
1) for this to be anywhere near believable you would need to use individual fans in completely separate cavities.
2 ) wall cavities ,with few exceptions,do not have pressurized air flow to force heat or cold the through the insulation media.
3) leaving the ball in the left tube increases air flow through the right side further rendering this display rediculous.
conclusion...this display was designed to deceive by setting up unreal circumstances that even If it was done in an even handed way still wouldn't come any where near representing results in a real world situation and seriously undermines the credibility of the poster.
Also on the left, the outside temperature is 2 degrees colder.
Wind creates a lot of pressure through insulation, especially in old leaky houses that blow in is used in.
And housewrap and foam helps with wind. Thats what I put over my old siding before re-siding.
i just assumed he had the 2x4 on the right side under the insulation opened up to allow more air and heat in since i couldnt see the little test jig before he started
True about fiberglass batt but he is misleading. Fact to install fiberglass in Blown in Blanket system the same is true of fiberglass as with cellulose.
It’s a known fact you don’t want air movement threw fiberglass insulation as it reduces r value. So turn the damn fans off lol
*No Underwriters or Major Builders including Housebulders, use paper insulation flakes k/as cellulose to insulate their properties, most are worried it will burn, but much more worried about workmen finding electric cables in the roof space afterwards if the houseowner has an electic fault, with cellulose the cables get buried underneath it. Watch the Cellulse videos on YT, they all say remember to leave a 12" UNINSULATED CIRCLE around light fittings and electric light bulbs to prevent fires*, WHY?* ....
REALLLLY??? then who was that that built 50 homes last yr WITH ONLY cellulose insulation?? hmmm??? 12" ... how about 3? you just make things up as you go or what? you do realize the spacing is for FG as well? OR that its required due to making the can lite from over heating and flipping off?? Superior knowledge will ALWAYS show stupidity for the darkness it is. 12" ???? bwhahahahaha... what a maroon as bugs used to say. BTW.. what EXACTLY is a insulation "flake" ? or is that a pipersSOB made up term??
Okai I will agree with you on just one point you make, Celluose does SETTLE better than any other form of insulation. Cellulose contractors (layers) know when first laid it looks to the consumer like 10-12" inches, at this point they insist on being paid (no wonder) and a week or so later its 9", and so on and so forth, and it ends up what was poured out of the bag.Those bags are not that big, so how come just a few BAGS can cover a vast area ATTIC SPACE AREA when its fluffed up like *CHICKEN FEATHERS. Cellulose is no better than chicken feathers*. iN FACT CHICKEN FEATHERS MIGHT BE BETTER.
you mean the scandal of BLOWN GLASS and the FLUFFING that most of its installers use? ( look up CBS news and the report on 60 minutes some years back) ..... You don't understand blown density vs settled do you? its ok... You haven't understood most of what you have spewed here so far. FLUFFED cellulose? It cant happen because of the nature of the material... BUT FG ... you can do it to that all day long. But I'm pretty sure you knew that but just pretending otherwise..( I hope)
*Cellulose IS BLOWN into the loft, it floats gently down like Artic Snowflakes , if the layers took a TENNIS BAT they could SWAT it down to 1 inch, but they don't do they?, The Air Blower they use is a money making machine, it can turn ONE DOLLAR WORTH OF INSULATION into 10 dollars, not even the Federal Reserve can do that. When its laid there's $10 dollar bills everywhere in the attics and a year later the've turned into DIMES, and when your staff leave they are all singing the comapny song from Fiddler in the roof, and that was a miracle too*."
AGAIN.. you lie.. don't you ever stop or do you work for CNN ?.. OK lets go over FACTS.. An AIR LOCK machine locks air OUT and only can PUSH the material thru a hose , it is NEVER "mixed" as you so obviously think it is. Also .. you do not blow into a loft(?) and let it gently fall like "snow" . What is DONE is the hose end is usually no more than a few inches OFF THE material being blown over or the ceiling....any more made up BS you want brought into the light of TRUTH AND FACTS? .....You just cant stand this can you? when superior knowledge bests your imaginary rhetoric.
im a license installer for AIRKREATE in texas just in case you dont want cellulose or fiberglass :-)
Another bullshit demonstration. First of all, its not on the insulation to be the air barrier, that's done on exterior with proper wrap and flash. Blowing warm air through the fiberglass is obviously going to spike that thermometer, but doesn't mean fiberglass insulates less in a sealed cavity. Fact is, fiberglass actually has a slightly high R value per inch when comparing actual spec sheets from industry leading brands.
Cellulose is king buddy! @francishoffmaniii4880 your probably one of them techs that sells fiberglass in attics because you can fit more in your truck than cellulose, you guys hate installing this product because your not skilled enough .
*There is two types of fibreglass mat, color yellow or yellow/orange, is used for and made for insulation purposes, it's soft fluffy stuff similat to cotton wool, I have laid maybe a 100 000+ rolls with no bother. The other type is WHITE glass fibre mat used for making glass fibre vehicle bodies, boats and machinary cabs, its SPUN thicker, and got sharp glass needles in it, THE INSULATION MAT is safe, the glass fibre mat is still safe but do wear a mask. A clown on here who sells shredded waste paper as an insulation in knocking fiberglass, yet he has no shame Selling Waste Paper, I am against it, so is the insulation trade and major builders, when we complete a job we know its done right,*
Really poor demo.