Testors was what I used when I was a kid. I used that brand because it was specifically made for models, and it was the only "model specific" paint that was available to me at the time. I'm still not very good at painting but now that I'm using Tamiya primers, laquear sprays, and still hand brush details with Tamiya acrylics and occasionally Testors enamel. The paint on my models looks much better.
Mr. Yost. I admire your work, attention to detail, and your skill set is unmatched. I recently got back into model building after a long lay over from adolescents. I watch a lot of videos and I find yours very informative. I love building pro street MOPARS which leads me to my question which there isn't alot of information out there. My question is on the detailing the under carriage of the car, What is the most realistic approach? Sorry if this question is remedial and thank you for posting videos so that people like me can learn.
I like to decant using bendy straws with hole cut in lid. Works great. You must wet sand for the winning finish. Thanks for the tech tip on wet sanding metallic’s.
Great Video Old man. Too often on You tube you see these hacks spraying hardware store spray paint on a model and it's rippled and orange peeled then they floor polish "Clear" it and everyone in the comments says what a great job they did and they wish they could paint that well. It makes me /facepalm every time, it's to the point now where you can't even argue with this level of incompetence. 1 important note you forgot to mention (I think), Hobby spray cans have a finer nozzle than hardware spray paint like Duplicolor and such which plays a lot into the end result as well. Stay awesome! and thanks for all your advice in the hobby over the years! P.S I have your videos as I absorb any information on the hobby and your method for body painting still works best (Very near what I've always done except I used to little thinner, same airbrush as well but you helped with some finer details I was missing). You never covered how you paint the inside of your Car bodies after removing the pipe nipple. Do you brush it on with a flat color or just go full body color? Thanks!
I’ve used Rustoleum spray paint and Tamiya too and I’ve had zero problems with either paint. They both last and I haven’t had any orange peel problems. None.
To decant spray cans I just take them outside and using a sharp ice pick I puncture the top of the can itself right under the top lid crimp. I let the pressure bleed off and then transfer the contents to another container. IMO it's easier and less messy than using a straw unless you want to leave some in the spray can that is.
Instead of using hot water to warm up a can of paint, I use my dehydrator set to 100 degrees. Give the can a good shake and set in the dehydrator for five minutes. Pull it out, give another good shake and another five minutes and then shoot.
Don’t forget you are working 1/25” scale your flake should be around 25 times smaller or what looks right! Tamiya has calculated this in there paint ! Some people do this with there plug wires, they end up with plug hoses!😜🤔👍🏻
Could not agree more Don, i have used Duplicolor and Rustoleum and it is bad news for many reasons when used on model cars, especially if you are a beginner like i was, absolute nightmare.
Some people don't know about sanding out Enamel!!! You can lay it out like glass if you use the ultra fine sandpaper. Don't even need a gloss coat! I do it over decals
Brilliantly clear as always and to the point. Any thoughts of water based acrylics as I do not use solvent based paints due to health. I know not as good but interested in any thoughts please. All the best.
So far on my Revell Foose Eldorado build, I've used one 100ml tin of Tamiya TS53 Deep Metallic Blue for a couple of coats! I think it needs another couple of coats as well.... Mind you, I think most of the paint has oversprayed onto my spraybooth surround, rather than on the model... So my next tin I've decanted, for use through my airbrush... Hopefully another couple of coats will see the body work done! Very nice colour though!
Hey Chuck, I'm Chris.....Testors had a line of model products called Testors Model Master & the Testors parent company which is Rust Oleum did away with the Model Master line. At one time, they're products were excellent!!!!! They made everything from primers & paints & glues & tools & most everything else one would need for model building. It's such a shame too because the Model Master product line was such a well made line of products. I can remember buying them back in the mid to late 80's when I was a teen.......they were simply terrific products, no question............and now they're all gone.
Great fundamental Friday video Donn as usual. The Tamiya spray paints are Lacquers shoes this mean you are now recommending we use Tamiya Lacquer now or do you still use the enamels cut with Laquer thinner-I’m confused!
I've got a question about the water temp. I know different people have their hot water set to different temps. My hot water at the tap is 160-170 degrees. Would that be too high?
Great video as usual:) now how you feel about water-based paint? I do mostly wearthed vehicles and I think sometimes I use the wrong primer and or clear dull coat. It sometimes cracks :( thanks again for your very informative videos
Hey Donn, I have ALL your DVD's as I am going back and reviewing them, I noticed you use the metalizer as a primer. Is the same method you use to paint to get your finishes doable with the Tamiya primer. Do I just replace one with the other?
Model products are definitely better to paint model kits. They are made for models, which makes total sense that you should use them for your models. Rustoleum and Krylon paints will work on models, but you MUST prime your models. Now, you will get a nice finish for a shelf model, but don’t expect to win any contests with them. Up until recently, I used Rustoleum and Krylon to paint my model bodies, but I’ve switched to Tamiya and Testors lacquer paints, and my models are looking 100% better. I can’t see me going back to Rustoleum and Krylon paints for bodies.
any body who knows mr. yost he knows what he talking about he has been around a long time in the models a long time do you think he would do a video on lieing come on people he know what he talking about hes no body fool hes very smart very smart when hes talking about i listen to him every time he dose a video he has not streer me wrong yet keep up the great work you do and the teaching your very good at what you do sir you have made me a better modeler and for that sir i own you a gig thank you mr. yost
Hello Don, have not seen all your videos so I do not know if this item has come up before. 1Shot Lettering enamel, have you ever tried it ? I have done a few cars and happy with the results. It is a brush on application or thinned down can may be airbrushed. The gloss is lovely. This is the enamel paint that automotive pin-stripers have used since 1948. I have painted model cars using a soft squirrel haired lettering brush, 2 coats of thinned down 1Shot and cured it in a food dehydrator for excellent results. Please google 1Shot for more details. This paint is usually sold in autobody/ tool shops.
Experimenting cost a lot of money!this fella’s system is tried and proven! If your wealthy do it the other way ! Ask old timers how they know !🤔😎👍🏻good stuff (Don) !
Another great fundamental Friday. I received my DVDs last week. Watching them this morning. And took a break to watch fundamental Friday. In your DVD you mention a guy that makes decals to replace emblems. Do you know if he is still doing that. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Old Man. 👍😎
Just curious about a comment you made about the choices of paints you use. First you say paints like rust-o-leum are not made for models, don't use them. Then you say you talk about you using Tamiya paints for your models. So we are lead to believe that you DON'T use any non-model related paint products, right? Then you mention using automotive paints products. That are not made for models. So what gives? I was around, and using automotive paints long before those colors were made available in model paint form. As I'm sure you were too. I also used finger nail polish to paint products. So, why would you tell others to severely limit their skills from using non-model related products? I know you're going to say you have years of experience and all but just because you limit what you work with should not be a reason to expect others to do so.
Did I , or did I not mention MCW Finishes ? Those are automotive paints . I also use Duplicolor primers as a base for finger nail polish . My primary painting product is Testors enamels . This is a basic fundamental platform that we are producing right now . It is the bare basics for the new kids on the block . In no way , shape or form , am I trying to mislead anyone . These videos are providing a map to guide modelers through the minefield to avoid costly mistakes . The videos and their content are based on commonly asked questions and problems that are of a consistent occurrence for the novice modelers .
Testors was what I used when I was a kid. I used that brand because it was specifically made for models, and it was the only "model specific" paint that was available to me at the time. I'm still not very good at painting but now that I'm using Tamiya primers, laquear sprays, and still hand brush details with Tamiya acrylics and occasionally Testors enamel. The paint on my models looks much better.
I use a coffee mug warmer. Set can on top for 5-10 minutes and it’s warm.
Thanks for the info. I'm a painter by trade (cabinets). But I'm just starting into car modeling. I know I came to the right guy for tips. You rock!
Thank you,knowing what not to do, is just as important as knowing what to do, love these weekly videos.
Very true.
Great information, always learning from you sir. Thanks for these videos 👍🏼
Don great vid just started back after couple years away,this is what hobby needs for new blood. Keep it up my friend.
Mr. Yost. I admire your work, attention to detail, and your skill set is unmatched. I recently got back into model building after a long lay over from adolescents. I watch a lot of videos and I find yours very informative. I love building pro street MOPARS which leads me to my question which there isn't alot of information out there. My question is on the detailing the under carriage of the car, What is the most realistic approach? Sorry if this question is remedial and thank you for posting videos so that people like me can learn.
I like to decant using bendy straws with hole cut in lid. Works great. You must wet sand for the winning finish. Thanks for the tech tip on wet sanding metallic’s.
I really enjoy your videos...thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great Video Old man. Too often on You tube you see these hacks spraying hardware store spray paint on a model and it's rippled and orange peeled then they floor polish "Clear" it and everyone in the comments says what a great job they did and they wish they could paint that well. It makes me /facepalm every time, it's to the point now where you can't even argue with this level of incompetence. 1 important note you forgot to mention (I think), Hobby spray cans have a finer nozzle than hardware spray paint like Duplicolor and such which plays a lot into the end result as well. Stay awesome! and thanks for all your advice in the hobby over the years!
P.S I have your videos as I absorb any information on the hobby and your method for body painting still works best (Very near what I've always done except I used to little thinner, same airbrush as well but you helped with some finer details I was missing). You never covered how you paint the inside of your Car bodies after removing the pipe nipple. Do you brush it on with a flat color or just go full body color? Thanks!
I’ve used Rustoleum spray paint and Tamiya too and I’ve had zero problems with either paint. They both last and I haven’t had any orange peel problems. None.
Great work on the information,Donn. I look forward to your vids.
To decant spray cans I just take them outside and using a sharp ice pick I puncture the top of the can itself right under the top lid crimp. I let the pressure bleed off and then transfer the contents to another container. IMO it's easier and less messy than using a straw unless you want to leave some in the spray can that is.
Donn, have you ever used Alclad 2 primers? I’ve had great success with them. They dry semi gloss and build better than Tamiya . Sand nice as well.
Instead of using hot water to warm up a can of paint, I use my dehydrator set to 100 degrees. Give the can a good shake and set in the dehydrator for five minutes. Pull it out, give another good shake and another five minutes and then shoot.
Don’t forget you are working 1/25” scale your flake should be around 25 times smaller or what looks right! Tamiya has calculated this in there paint ! Some people do this with there plug wires, they end up with plug hoses!😜🤔👍🏻
Could not agree more Don, i have used Duplicolor and Rustoleum and it is bad news for many reasons when used on model cars, especially if you are a beginner like i was, absolute nightmare.
I enjoy your vids man!
Some people don't know about sanding out Enamel!!! You can lay it out like glass if you use the ultra fine sandpaper. Don't even need a gloss coat! I do it over decals
Brilliantly clear as always and to the point. Any thoughts of water based acrylics as I do not use solvent based paints due to health. I know not as good but interested in any thoughts please. All the best.
30 k for a kitchen must not live in Jersey. Lol. Great tip thanks. I’m starting to use more Tamiya paints
Thanks for the story!!!
So far on my Revell Foose Eldorado build, I've used one 100ml tin of Tamiya TS53 Deep Metallic Blue for a couple of coats! I think it needs another couple of coats as well.... Mind you, I think most of the paint has oversprayed onto my spraybooth surround, rather than on the model... So my next tin I've decanted, for use through my airbrush... Hopefully another couple of coats will see the body work done! Very nice colour though!
I agree....Tamiya is the best!!!!!! Great video. I'll be watching
Where can I get your DVD's? Could you share a link? Really enjoy your fundamental videos. Thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Scale Model Car Techniques on FaceBook. oldmansmodels.com
What happened with Testors? they sold the brand but the family kept the Testors name or something?
Hey Chuck, I'm Chris.....Testors had a line of model products called Testors Model Master & the Testors parent company which is Rust Oleum did away with the Model Master line. At one time, they're products were excellent!!!!! They made everything from primers & paints & glues & tools & most everything else one would need for model building. It's such a shame too because the Model Master product line was such a well made line of products. I can remember buying them back in the mid to late 80's when I was a teen.......they were simply terrific products, no question............and now they're all gone.
Simply Because The"EXECUTIVES" Of RustOleum are "BRAINDEAD"‼️‼️
@@garyparker2969 Damn straight on that one Gary.......well put buddy!!!!!!
Nice . Thanks
Good afternoon, approximately how my hrs do you think you spend on a body prepping for paint?
It depends on the kit and the manufacturer. Several hours would be the norm ..
Hey old man... love the series.
Will there be a fundamentals on decals? Looking to decal over flat paint.
Great tips loco hombre!!!!
I use Dupli-color metallics...flakes seem to scale & id be scared to sand it if no impercections?
Great fundamental Friday video Donn as usual. The Tamiya spray paints are Lacquers shoes this mean you are now recommending we use Tamiya Lacquer now or do you still use the enamels cut with Laquer thinner-I’m confused!
Where do you keep all the cars you build ?
Thank you for that insight I kind of wondered about that I still think you must paint cars wheel cars
Testors one coat laqcuer is fantastic too
The kitchen story is classic no one I mean no one reads the side of the can do not store above 120°! Lol 😆 and orange no less.
I've got a question about the water temp. I know different people have their hot water set to different temps. My hot water at the tap is 160-170 degrees. Would that be too high?
Great video as usual:) now how you feel about water-based paint? I do mostly wearthed vehicles and I think sometimes I use the wrong primer and or clear dull coat. It sometimes cracks :( thanks again for your very informative videos
Old man do you not prime with airbrush? I know in your 1st DVD you talk about MM metalizer paint as a primer. Do you use primer in airbrush now?
how do you spray pearl spray paint can you tell me how to do it the right way
True pearl is added to the clear when mixing 🤔😎
Hey Donn, I have ALL your DVD's as I am going back and reviewing them, I noticed you use the metalizer as a primer. Is the same method you use to paint to get your finishes doable with the Tamiya primer. Do I just replace one with the other?
I only use the metallizer under pearls and metallics . Standard colors are shot directly on the bare plastic.
@@ScaleModelTechniques in what scenarios do you prime.with Tamiya? Only after body work needed to be done? Sorry 😎
@@rustyksradrodzgarage7087 Yes . As of late , I have been using it on some of the new releases due to the memory this new age plastic exhibits…..
Thanks love the help
Model products are definitely better to paint model kits. They are made for models, which makes total sense that you should use them for your models. Rustoleum and Krylon paints will work on models, but you MUST prime your models. Now, you will get a nice finish for a shelf model, but don’t expect to win any contests with them. Up until recently, I used Rustoleum and Krylon to paint my model bodies, but I’ve switched to Tamiya and Testors lacquer paints, and my models are looking 100% better. I can’t see me going back to Rustoleum and Krylon paints for bodies.
any body who knows mr. yost he knows what he talking about he has been around a long time in the models a long time do you think he would do a video on lieing come on people he know what he talking about hes no body fool hes very smart very smart when hes talking about i listen to him every time he dose a video he has not streer me wrong yet keep up the great work you do and the teaching your very good at what you do sir you have made me a better modeler and for that sir i own you a gig thank you mr. yost
👍👍😎🇺🇸
Hello Don, have not seen all your videos so I do not know if this item has come up before. 1Shot Lettering enamel, have you ever tried it ? I have done a few cars and happy with the results. It is a brush on application or thinned down can may be airbrushed. The gloss is lovely. This is the enamel paint that automotive pin-stripers have used since 1948. I have painted model cars using a soft squirrel haired lettering brush, 2 coats of thinned down 1Shot and cured it in a food dehydrator for excellent results. Please google 1Shot for more details. This paint is usually sold in autobody/ tool shops.
Thank you
what about the weaher in fl' what to do
Paint on the days with low humidity … mostly , it will be in the winter months .
when ae you going to build a jo-han ramble please mr. yost
👍👍👍
That is true about Duplicolor
Tamiya is great paint, but so is scalefinish, mr. Hobby, MCW.
Experimenting cost a lot of money!this fella’s system is tried and proven! If your wealthy do it the other way ! Ask old timers how they know !🤔😎👍🏻good stuff (Don) !
Another great fundamental Friday. I received my DVDs last week. Watching them this morning. And took a break to watch fundamental Friday. In your DVD you mention a guy that makes decals to replace emblems. Do you know if he is still doing that. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Old Man. 👍😎
Keith Marks . He is on FaceBook
A white kitchen turned orange, yea, not good..............
Hugger or Hemi orange 🍊 🤔. Could possibly grow on ya. Lol
@@johnrubright2495 True 🙂
What aboutthe using finger nail polish to paint models??????
Yeah I’ve done it long ago. It works if thinned to proper consistency. There’s so many flashy colors to choose from.
@@colossalbigfoot256 That's what I liked it was the House Of Colors for model cars, love your videos you are very informative, later Tony
Just curious about a comment you made about the choices of paints you use.
First you say paints like rust-o-leum are not made for models, don't use them. Then you say you talk about you using Tamiya paints for your models.
So we are lead to believe that you DON'T use any non-model related paint products, right?
Then you mention using automotive paints products. That are not made for models.
So what gives?
I was around, and using automotive paints long before those colors were made available in model paint form. As I'm sure you were too.
I also used finger nail polish to paint products.
So, why would you tell others to severely limit their skills from using non-model related products? I know you're going to say you have years of experience and all but just because you limit what you work with should not be a reason to expect others to do so.
Did I , or did I not mention MCW Finishes ? Those are automotive paints . I also use Duplicolor primers as a base for finger nail polish . My primary painting product is Testors enamels . This is a basic fundamental platform that we are producing right now . It is the bare basics for the new kids on the block .
In no way , shape or form , am I trying to mislead anyone . These videos are providing a map to guide modelers through the minefield to avoid costly mistakes .
The videos and their content are based on commonly asked questions and problems that are of a consistent occurrence for the novice modelers .