Just installed my Fore Innovation L4 Dual pump system. Maybe I ordered a different kit but we installed the supply line to a Y off connection (supplies in the kit) then from the Y we ran to each side of the the Fore Fuel rails, from the Fuel Rails to the two outer sides of the regulator then from regulator, installed the fuel gauge on the regulator. I’m a Twin turbo set up. My hose that was supposed was a steel braided line with slightly different connectors. I had a buddy helping me. Wondering what different running the supply line to the Y an direct to both rails vs the way you set up would be.
Thanks for watching! Yea the kit you got is a little different, but mainly because Fore Innovations is a DIY build your own kind of kit. Some retailers are offering specific packages. The main difference is that you're running a parallel fuel rail setup and I'm running a series setup. It really depends on power goals, but a parallel setup is generally superior to my series. However, at the power levels I'm targeting I didn't really need that. It's a good setup for bigger power, if you're going over 1000whp on ethanol especially.
im a total idiot at working on cars, but after I got a $2k quote to install one I decided to diy. This video has helped a lot even though it's on a gen 2 and mine is a gen 3.
38:23 that red wire is that Necessary? My car came with fore fuel lines and also that red wire. Without it my car won’t start and it’s burnt and it’s on its last leg with a weak bridge. Can I pull it out?
Glad it's helping you Elian! Thanks for watching and I hope your replacement controller fixes your problems :-). Fore guys are really knowledgeable so I'm sure you won't have any issues getting it going.
What electronic fuel pressure set up did you use in the regulator ? Was it the OEM sensor and plug from OEM fuel system just relocated from original OEM location to reg. ???!!! Will be installing fore system on my 18 very very soon have the parts already just need to make time to do it !!!
Hey, thanks for the sub! The electronic pressure gauge sending unit is from the AEM 30-0301 X-Series Pressure Gauge kit. On the S550 there isn't an OEM fuel pressure sensor. Maybe the 2018 has it, but I'm not aware of one. I would get something similar to that AEM unit with a remote sending unit. Since it's generally a bad idea to run fuel inside the car cabin and I doubt you want to mount gauges on your hood outside the car old-school style :-). Good luck with the install, if you have questions feel free to ping me. Also Fore has terrific customer support as well.
I have a 2016 with twin turbos and I’m installing a triple pump system from lethal performance. I’m having an issue with the pumps not coming on and I’m almost positive it’s the wire to the FPDM. Could you tell me which wire you cut and tee’d that signal wire to?
@DmitrysGarage perfect! Thanks. I was planning on removing the intake manifold for porting and didn't know if have to use loctite when installing the rails back on. Thanks for the advice
So - question in case maybe I just missed it - did you not use a check valve? Normally Fore has a check valve between the tank and the fuel filter to keep the pumps from losing fuel. Where is yours installed?
Hey, thanks for watching! The check valve is right in front of the fuel filter in my case. You can see it around the 30 minute mark. I went back later and cleaned up some of the mounting.
is the wiring inside the vehicle for the fuel pump module to the cars fuel pump connector the same way for a 2019 mustang gt? doing my install tmr and need help with that
Installing my dual pump setup now...On the top of the fuel hat there are two black wire with butt connectors on them. Which wires to they go to? I am assuming the two smaller wires on the factory harness that plugged into the factory fuel pump.
Haha no problem, it's such a long video man and it was hard to do a lot on each step, it would have been like 4 hours then! Glad you got it! Let me know if you have any other questions, I can probably help!
The only other question was what you used to add the fasteners to the hoses going to the fuel pump. Channel locks and a wrench I am assuming. The hose ends you had to add in the car are what I am referencing.
Yea I had to use a channel lock and a wrench. It sucked, but there was no way to put a fitting in there that was pre-made. With PTFE this would be a major PITA, luckily I used a more flexible hose (I recommend FlexLP). One option is to lower the tank but it's held up on the filler neck and that strap that holds it.
Glad the video is helping. Wish I knew what it was for the 2011, but unfortunately I don't. What I can tell you is that the guys at Fore are super knowledgeable. Give them a call and ask I'm sure they can help guide you in the right direction.
Hey bud how long is the install on the fore system? I think there's some shady shit going down at my speed shop.... they're saying 12hrs labour but they've done a dozen or more and it seems inane that it would take 12hrs especially if you know what your doing
12 seems a bit high if they're used to doing these. I can see a full day though. I guess overall it depends on their rate vs. competing shops that might charge more for less hours.
Hoping you may be able to shed some light on this issue I am having. I am installing a similar setup but with a GT350 hat and harness. I can not find a wiring diagram for the factory harness for these cars anywhere, what did you go off of to be sure you wired this correctly?
Hey thanks for watching! So you’re basically transplanting the gt350 system? For the trigger wire just to be honest I talked to people online to see which wire they spliced. It was different than my JMS BAP setup. Also at one point I talked to Justin at Fore Innovations, he wad super helpful. I don’t think I ever saw a full diagram for the harness which I assume is what you need. Maybe mustang6g forum? I wish I knew more. Ill see if any factory service manual stuff has it.
@@DmitrysGarage I appreciate the reply, today I am going to use a multimeter to figure out which is the signal wire. Do you happen to remember which color wire you used? I have found some stuff on Mustang6g but figured I would dig deeper. Thank you for your help.
Hello thanks for the video, i just received the same system what items shud i get before i start this install? I read u had to make store run for missing things, thanks in advance!
I watched the video and attempted to call fore and they would not tell me where to connect the remote wire. Now here is a question...the S550 fuel module plug is under the seat. The fuel module plug for an S197 is in the trunk. The wire coming from the OEM fuel hat is the same wire the ties into the fuel module plug (Same color and all) if I cut the wire at the fuel hat in the trunk and attach a wire to it then run it to the remote for the fore that should do the same thing as splicing into it in the trunk in theory would it not??
Ryan, that's too bad Fore was pretty knowledgeable when I dealt with them. For your question, I think you'd need to review the electrical diagrams for the wiring, but yes if you're picking it up past the module you're probably ok.
@@DmitrysGarage First and foremost thank you for taking the time to read and respond. Got me as a subscriber just for that gesture. Second, your video is really the only video that goes into that much detail. The DIY'ers thank you for that. I chased the wire from the OEM fuel hat plugin on the s197 to the back of the trunk where the fuel pump module is located on the s197 (vs the s550 under the seat). I'm thinking I'm ok with cutting the wire from the plug and splicing it into the remote wire. If it don't work I will connect it back and then go to the fuel module and jump it like you did. Either way I will tell you the end result so you can share information with others who will ask you in the future.
@@ryanfreeman5987 Appreciate that Ryan :-), I'll have some more Mustang content in the near future. Doing a few more mods soon. Do let me know how this works out, we can pin the comment so others dealing with this can find it. Glad you like the video!
Typically this means your signal wire for the system (the one from the factory harness) is the one that stays constant on with ignition. Which wire are you tapping into?
Thanks for watching! The fuel flows from the tank into the fuel rails and then to the FPR. The FPR then spits the fuel back into the tank. Think of the FPR like keeping a thumb on the end of a garden hose to build up pressure in the system.
@@alexandrewoods3763 This would only be the case if you wired up the fuel pumps to run with the key on instead of priming and turning off like the factory setup.
Great video man, its crazy yours is one of very few on this install. What did you do with the original fuel lines? Is there anything else you needed to buy with the Fore lvl 2 to get this all to work besides tools? Thanks!
Thanks for watching Mark, glad you liked the video. I didn't remove the original lines, they don't get in the way. Other than tools my kit had everything I needed, but I suggest talking to Fore as their team is very knowledgeable and they may have made changes to the kit since I got mine in 2018. There are also different options when it comes to fuel type and power goals so it's worth talking to them.
Thanks for watching, glad you liked the video! I'm not completely sure what you mean by boost, but I'm assuming you mean fuel pressure? If so the fuel pressure will spike momentarily when you turn the key on, and will drop quickly after the pumps finish priming if the engine isn't immediately started. The FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) controls the fuel pressure delivered to the fuel rail. The FPR has a vacuum/boost reference which is used to vary the fuel pressure from the base setting when the reference is at atmospheric pressure (i.e. engine off). Overall the FPR works kinda like putting your thumb over a garden hose, the pressure inside the hose goes up. In my setup the FPR is after the fuel rail, which is normal for non-deadhead FPR setups. The reason the FPR can not maintain fuel pressure with key on engine off, is because the pumps don't keep priming if you don't turn the engine on. It would be like someone turning off the garden hose, your thumb isn't going to keep the pressure up. Hope this helps!
The red power cable? Yea that will hide in the interior trim no problem. I don't have a lot of trim past the front seats since I've gutted the rest of the car in that direction. This thing is barely street legal these days :).
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Im sure that Paxton powered beast will be very happy once you do get this fuel setup. Totally worth it!
Did you tap into the yellow/gray wire on the plug that directly plugged into the top of the fuel pump hat or the on that's on the little module to the right of the pump?
Thanks man, I'd say give yourself a weekend if doing the same setup. This assumes you have all the tools and some of the little things the kit doesn't include. Some self tapping metal screws, shrink wrap, splice/tap stuff, etc... It took me a week or so to work out all the little stuff and tools and get them on amazon before I really tore into the install. If I had to do another one again, I could do it really quickly. It's not hard just lots of pieces.
@@jebadias1468 haha it really depends, if you've done it before you can do it very quickly. However, for a first time build there are so many little things going on here as far as how you want to build it, tools, parts and accessories. It could definitely take 3+ weeks, just depends on the amount time you take to plan the project. In my experience the biggest time killer is all the interruptions and delays that can happen if the plan doesn't execute well. Even having to run to a hardware store or auto parts store is a huge time sink.
@@DmitrysGarage You're right on that. The little things are what gets you. Thanks for showing the wiring in such detail. I always figured the plumbing would be easy, and it looks like it in your video. This is the first video I have seen that addresses wiring in an understandable way and has been the biggest thing holding me back from giving it a try.
I have a Fore tripple hat on my 15 GT. After i drained 93 to put E85 in, my fuel gauge stopped reading and the light came on for it. Any idea what i should be looking at, when i go in?
It only broke when you drained it? Like it worked with the triple hat on 93 and then broke? Thats super strange. How did you drain it? I would look at the continuity of the sending unit wiring. If that checks out its time to pull the unit up and see whats up with the sending unit. Maybe it got stuck or came loose or unclipped.
@@DmitrysGarage I disconnected the fuel line near fuel filter and used a wire to short it out to make pumps run. it is a triple hat i assume 3 pumps may cause it to stuck.
@@ironbull2003 Yea that is a legit way to drain it. I would still do what I was saying. Check the external wiring continuity make sure the connections are solid, then go to the pump hat itself and the sending unit.
Not sure as it may be a different model to mine. Did it not come with instructions for the specific part? Typically fore has decent instructions for what each wire does. You can also try giving them a call, they were knowledgeable when I last spoke with their team.
@@DmitrysGarage I have the same year car as you . I was just confused on if it was the wires off the stock hat or the module on the right attached to the car itself
@@DmitrysGarage I been running 5w50 amsoil signature I was thinking of switching can’t decide which will be better i do sing high rpm coyote tones a lot what you think ?
@@scubagto420 Motul makes a good oil. I've had nothing but good oil analysis reports with it. Though these days all the big players make good oil especially Castrol. Amsoil is more niche but their stuff is usually good.
Not sure but I’ll look into the Jackal kit. One thing I can say for sure is that Fore Innovations (features in this video) makes a VERY high quality kit. You will know what i mean when you hold their machined parts in your hands. Its like holding a Rolex, you can tell someone tried really hard to make it nice.
System came with a vmp blower I picked up used. I wanted to see if it's worth installing it .i would still need to pick up fore innovation fuel rail. Since I wanted to get 1000cc injectors . I have my stock 2010 Shelby gt500 fuel rail . I want to replace it before putting on the blower since it's a gen 2 .
So I'm reading about this kit. Is it a single pump or a dual? I'd probably think about how old the fuel pump is. Those racing pumps don't tend to have long life spans. I'd probably swap the pump out. But the Jackal fuel pump hat seems fine to re-use. The rest is really just fittings and hoses. Are you planning to re-use that stuff? If not I'm sure Fore will sell you just those components too, it's all in their catalog. I do love the Fore fuel rails, so maybe just save the pump hat and any controller stuff it came with and see about refreshing everything else?
Thanks man! I use the Sony AX53, so far it's been a workhorse. I've actually even dropped it on the concrete form about 4ft by accident once. Still works, has a few small cracks in the case lol.
For this setup I'm running two 450lph pumps and each one draws 190W for a total of 380W. So you need at LEAST 8 AWG wire, which is rated to 400W. In this case I'm using 6 AWG. Dropping it in and using the factory wiring would be like trying to power a subwoofer without an amplifier from your rear speakers. Essentially this picks up a signal from the factory wiring and draws power directly from the battery when the car is on. It's pretty much the same idea as an amplifier install. There are a few plug & play drop-in systems but all the ones I've seen still need a voltage booster to pump more fuel, which shortens pump life. Plus those systems are still dead-head like OEM and not return style systems which is in my opinion less desirable. Furthermore they provide a bit more headroom than a factory pump with a voltage booster, so when you start to run out of head room you'll wind up replacing those drop in systems and losing the money you could have put in towards a custom system to begin with. Ultimately it depends on how much power you want to make and which fuel you want to run and how much risk (i.e. boost a pump frying your single fuel pump while doing a pull) you want to take.
@@DmitrysGarage wow thanks for the explination i want to use boostane and gas a drop in filter is not a good way to go i have a fuel pump booster vmp supercharger
Yea you do have to replace it so it's best to install it in such a way that it's serviceable. The replacement is opening it up and switching out the filter material.
Call me a hater but yall took the clips out when they are push release not too big of a deal but then yall do everything with a night light no good lighting wat so ever and to add on top yall workin on the floor like WHY
I'm sorry you aren't happy with the 48 minute highly detailed video that I made many years ago for a new product no one at the time documented at this level of detail.
@ when u uploaded this video there were already plenty of cars and ppl running this same exact fuel system i ran it on plenty of customers cars the date of the upload shouldnt play any part in the actual work being done call me a hater but yall work is shitty 🤷🏻♂️
Haha, it's not that bad man, just a lot of little things. It's a little challenging the first time you're doing it, but with the video and some of the great online write ups people have posted it shouldn't be too bad. The real downside is that most of us will only do this job once unless you own multiple Mustangs 🤑. On the flip side these skills should translate to future fuel system jobs on other cars you mod. Boost a pumps work too. I had a boost a pump, but they have their limits and there's always the risk of added strain on the stock pump. Also tuning is easier on a return system.
Yea I really wish I filmed the procharger install! I kinda started doing videos right after i installed it. Tool wise, most that stuff isn't crazy money, if you're modding cars a lot, doing any audio or other cabling stuff, then these will all come in handy. Links are in the description and i think all together it's under $150. That of course assumes you have a vice and other basic mechanics tools (sockets, wrenches, ratchets, etc...) The power tools I use are generally not required, just useful.
Love the video. Thank you so much. I plan on installing my own system myself.
Just installed my Fore Innovation L4 Dual pump system. Maybe I ordered a different kit but we installed the supply line to a Y off connection (supplies in the kit) then from the Y we ran to each side of the the Fore Fuel rails, from the Fuel Rails to the two outer sides of the regulator then from regulator, installed the fuel gauge on the regulator. I’m a Twin turbo set up. My hose that was supposed was a steel braided line with slightly different connectors. I had a buddy helping me. Wondering what different running the supply line to the Y an direct to both rails vs the way you set up would be.
Thanks for watching! Yea the kit you got is a little different, but mainly because Fore Innovations is a DIY build your own kind of kit. Some retailers are offering specific packages. The main difference is that you're running a parallel fuel rail setup and I'm running a series setup. It really depends on power goals, but a parallel setup is generally superior to my series. However, at the power levels I'm targeting I didn't really need that. It's a good setup for bigger power, if you're going over 1000whp on ethanol especially.
Dmitry's Garage yeah I’m Twin turbo with built motor and built MT82. Looking at making 1100.
Loved the install. You really lowered my stress level
Thats awesome, glad you liked it!
When you ran the green trigger wire, did you just tap into the one wire on the FPDM? I have the FC3 controller and I have two remote connections.
When you splice the fuel level sender in did it matter what wires spliced to each other?
im a total idiot at working on cars, but after I got a $2k quote to install one I decided to diy. This video has helped a lot even though it's on a gen 2 and mine is a gen 3.
38:23 that red wire is that Necessary? My car came with fore fuel lines and also that red wire. Without it my car won’t start and it’s burnt and it’s on its last leg with a weak bridge. Can I pull it out?
Yes that red wire supplies power to the fuel pumps, so it will not work without it.
No tienes un video de como instalarlo el sistema de retorno en un mustang cobra 03-04
Es el mismo concepto. No tengo video, lo siento.
thanks for the video, my 2014 5.0 already has this fore system, but I was having problems with my older controller so I'm replacing it soon.
Glad it's helping you Elian! Thanks for watching and I hope your replacement controller fixes your problems :-). Fore guys are really knowledgeable so I'm sure you won't have any issues getting it going.
Good Job man just about to do this install. I’m glad I found this video and thanks for the help.
Glad this helps, thanks for watching and good luck with the install!
What electronic fuel pressure set up did you use in the regulator ? Was it the OEM sensor and plug from OEM fuel system just relocated from original OEM location to reg. ???!!! Will be installing fore system on my 18 very very soon have the parts already just need to make time to do it !!!
Hey, thanks for the sub! The electronic pressure gauge sending unit is from the AEM 30-0301 X-Series Pressure Gauge kit. On the S550 there isn't an OEM fuel pressure sensor. Maybe the 2018 has it, but I'm not aware of one. I would get something similar to that AEM unit with a remote sending unit. Since it's generally a bad idea to run fuel inside the car cabin and I doubt you want to mount gauges on your hood outside the car old-school style :-). Good luck with the install, if you have questions feel free to ping me. Also Fore has terrific customer support as well.
Dmitry's Garage thx man I’m going to look up that part number
And definitely appreciate the videos keep them coming :-)
I have a 2016 with twin turbos and I’m installing a triple pump system from lethal performance. I’m having an issue with the pumps not coming on and I’m almost positive it’s the wire to the FPDM. Could you tell me which wire you cut and tee’d that signal wire to?
Keith, at 40:54 you can see the wire I tap into. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Do you use loctite 592 on the an fittings that connect to the fuel rails? Or just on the analog pressure regular on the passenger side fuel Rail?
You don't need to use loctite on the AN fittings, they're flare fittings and will seal on their own. You only need it on the non-AN fittings.
@DmitrysGarage perfect! Thanks. I was planning on removing the intake manifold for porting and didn't know if have to use loctite when installing the rails back on. Thanks for the advice
So - question in case maybe I just missed it - did you not use a check valve? Normally Fore has a check valve between the tank and the fuel filter to keep the pumps from losing fuel. Where is yours installed?
Hey, thanks for watching! The check valve is right in front of the fuel filter in my case. You can see it around the 30 minute mark. I went back later and cleaned up some of the mounting.
is the wiring inside the vehicle for the fuel pump module to the cars fuel pump connector the same way for a 2019 mustang gt? doing my install tmr and need help with that
Installing my dual pump setup now...On the top of the fuel hat there are two black wire with butt connectors on them. Which wires to they go to? I am assuming the two smaller wires on the factory harness that plugged into the factory fuel pump.
never mind, found the 5 seconds I missed that covered that :)
Haha no problem, it's such a long video man and it was hard to do a lot on each step, it would have been like 4 hours then! Glad you got it! Let me know if you have any other questions, I can probably help!
The only other question was what you used to add the fasteners to the hoses going to the fuel pump. Channel locks and a wrench I am assuming. The hose ends you had to add in the car are what I am referencing.
Minute 35:20
Yea I had to use a channel lock and a wrench. It sucked, but there was no way to put a fitting in there that was pre-made. With PTFE this would be a major PITA, luckily I used a more flexible hose (I recommend FlexLP). One option is to lower the tank but it's held up on the filler neck and that strap that holds it.
Great video! I'm about to install this system in a 2011! do you happen to know what wire the remote taps into on a 2011?
Glad the video is helping. Wish I knew what it was for the 2011, but unfortunately I don't. What I can tell you is that the guys at Fore are super knowledgeable. Give them a call and ask I'm sure they can help guide you in the right direction.
Hey bud how long is the install on the fore system? I think there's some shady shit going down at my speed shop.... they're saying 12hrs labour but they've done a dozen or more and it seems inane that it would take 12hrs especially if you know what your doing
12 seems a bit high if they're used to doing these. I can see a full day though. I guess overall it depends on their rate vs. competing shops that might charge more for less hours.
Hoping you may be able to shed some light on this issue I am having. I am installing a similar setup but with a GT350 hat and harness. I can not find a wiring diagram for the factory harness for these cars anywhere, what did you go off of to be sure you wired this correctly?
Hey thanks for watching! So you’re basically transplanting the gt350 system? For the trigger wire just to be honest I talked to people online to see which wire they spliced. It was different than my JMS BAP setup. Also at one point I talked to Justin at Fore Innovations, he wad super helpful. I don’t think I ever saw a full diagram for the harness which I assume is what you need. Maybe mustang6g forum? I wish I knew more. Ill see if any factory service manual stuff has it.
@@DmitrysGarage I appreciate the reply, today I am going to use a multimeter to figure out which is the signal wire. Do you happen to remember which color wire you used? I have found some stuff on Mustang6g but figured I would dig deeper. Thank you for your help.
Hello thanks for the video, i just received the same system what items shud i get before i start this install? I read u had to make store run for missing things, thanks in advance!
Fore innovation customer support is non existent! smh
I watched the video and attempted to call fore and they would not tell me where to connect the remote wire. Now here is a question...the S550 fuel module plug is under the seat. The fuel module plug for an S197 is in the trunk. The wire coming from the OEM fuel hat is the same wire the ties into the fuel module plug (Same color and all) if I cut the wire at the fuel hat in the trunk and attach a wire to it then run it to the remote for the fore that should do the same thing as splicing into it in the trunk in theory would it not??
Ryan, that's too bad Fore was pretty knowledgeable when I dealt with them. For your question, I think you'd need to review the electrical diagrams for the wiring, but yes if you're picking it up past the module you're probably ok.
@@DmitrysGarage First and foremost thank you for taking the time to read and respond. Got me as a subscriber just for that gesture. Second, your video is really the only video that goes into that much detail. The DIY'ers thank you for that. I chased the wire from the OEM fuel hat plugin on the s197 to the back of the trunk where the fuel pump module is located on the s197 (vs the s550 under the seat). I'm thinking I'm ok with cutting the wire from the plug and splicing it into the remote wire. If it don't work I will connect it back and then go to the fuel module and jump it like you did. Either way I will tell you the end result so you can share information with others who will ask you in the future.
@@ryanfreeman5987 Appreciate that Ryan :-), I'll have some more Mustang content in the near future. Doing a few more mods soon. Do let me know how this works out, we can pin the comment so others dealing with this can find it. Glad you like the video!
I have the same fuel system in my 15 gt with 3 pumps ,, how can make them start like oem style ? mine running all the time on I switch the key on !
Typically this means your signal wire for the system (the one from the factory harness) is the one that stays constant on with ignition. Which wire are you tapping into?
Going have to cut a hole in the hood, for the fuel line.
Hell of a job my man!! Great video!!!
Thanks for watching!
In what direction does the fuel flow. Great video
Thanks for watching! The fuel flows from the tank into the fuel rails and then to the FPR. The FPR then spits the fuel back into the tank. Think of the FPR like keeping a thumb on the end of a garden hose to build up pressure in the system.
Yes thanks. I meant fuel pressure. I was told that my check valve is supposed to hold fuel pressure with the key in the on position engine off
@@alexandrewoods3763 This would only be the case if you wired up the fuel pumps to run with the key on instead of priming and turning off like the factory setup.
Dmitry's Garage thank you sir
Great video man, its crazy yours is one of very few on this install. What did you do with the original fuel lines? Is there anything else you needed to buy with the Fore lvl 2 to get this all to work besides tools? Thanks!
Thanks for watching Mark, glad you liked the video. I didn't remove the original lines, they don't get in the way. Other than tools my kit had everything I needed, but I suggest talking to Fore as their team is very knowledgeable and they may have made changes to the kit since I got mine in 2018. There are also different options when it comes to fuel type and power goals so it's worth talking to them.
Not sure what is wrong but the video skips the factory fuel gauge sender wires. What 2 colors on the factory harness did you cut and splice into?
Jeremy, you should be able to see this at 7:13, its a yellow/purple and green/blue wire.
Great video. With the key in the on position should the regulator be holding boost? If so what would be the reason that it’s not?
Thanks for watching, glad you liked the video! I'm not completely sure what you mean by boost, but I'm assuming you mean fuel pressure? If so the fuel pressure will spike momentarily when you turn the key on, and will drop quickly after the pumps finish priming if the engine isn't immediately started. The FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) controls the fuel pressure delivered to the fuel rail. The FPR has a vacuum/boost reference which is used to vary the fuel pressure from the base setting when the reference is at atmospheric pressure (i.e. engine off). Overall the FPR works kinda like putting your thumb over a garden hose, the pressure inside the hose goes up. In my setup the FPR is after the fuel rail, which is normal for non-deadhead FPR setups. The reason the FPR can not maintain fuel pressure with key on engine off, is because the pumps don't keep priming if you don't turn the engine on. It would be like someone turning off the garden hose, your thumb isn't going to keep the pressure up. Hope this helps!
Were you able to hide the large cable under the interior trim
The red power cable? Yea that will hide in the interior trim no problem. I don't have a lot of trim past the front seats since I've gutted the rest of the car in that direction. This thing is barely street legal these days :).
What does the fuel pressure gauge on the rail read compared to the affermarket electric fuel pressure gauge you have installed?
It's about 2-3 psi difference. The fuel rail is not considered an accurate place to measure when the injectors are running as I understand.
Awesome video. Can’t swing a fuel system for my Paxton charged 18 yet buuuut I’m certainly gonna sub and save this vid.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Im sure that Paxton powered beast will be very happy once you do get this fuel setup. Totally worth it!
Did you tap into the yellow/gray wire on the plug that directly plugged into the top of the fuel pump hat or the on that's on the little module to the right of the pump?
Did you ever find the answer ?
Where did u tie into for vacuum for regulator
Amazing video bro!!! How long did it take overall?
Thanks man, I'd say give yourself a weekend if doing the same setup. This assumes you have all the tools and some of the little things the kit doesn't include. Some self tapping metal screws, shrink wrap, splice/tap stuff, etc... It took me a week or so to work out all the little stuff and tools and get them on amazon before I really tore into the install. If I had to do another one again, I could do it really quickly. It's not hard just lots of pieces.
@@DmitrysGarage Every time I hear someone say it takes the weekend I just assume a 3 week minimum
@@jebadias1468 haha it really depends, if you've done it before you can do it very quickly. However, for a first time build there are so many little things going on here as far as how you want to build it, tools, parts and accessories. It could definitely take 3+ weeks, just depends on the amount time you take to plan the project. In my experience the biggest time killer is all the interruptions and delays that can happen if the plan doesn't execute well. Even having to run to a hardware store or auto parts store is a huge time sink.
@@DmitrysGarage You're right on that. The little things are what gets you. Thanks for showing the wiring in such detail. I always figured the plumbing would be easy, and it looks like it in your video. This is the first video I have seen that addresses wiring in an understandable way and has been the biggest thing holding me back from giving it a try.
Are those stock injectors?
BigNick these are deatschwerks 1000cc injectors. Thanks for watching!
I have a Fore tripple hat on my 15 GT. After i drained 93 to put E85 in, my fuel gauge stopped reading and the light came on for it. Any idea what i should be looking at, when i go in?
It only broke when you drained it? Like it worked with the triple hat on 93 and then broke? Thats super strange. How did you drain it? I would look at the continuity of the sending unit wiring. If that checks out its time to pull the unit up and see whats up with the sending unit. Maybe it got stuck or came loose or unclipped.
@@DmitrysGarage I disconnected the fuel line near fuel filter and used a wire to short it out to make pumps run. it is a triple hat i assume 3 pumps may cause it to stuck.
@@ironbull2003 Yea that is a legit way to drain it. I would still do what I was saying. Check the external wiring continuity make sure the connections are solid, then go to the pump hat itself and the sending unit.
@@DmitrysGarage Will do
Mine has 4 wires on the hat. 2 for the fuel sender & do u know what the other 2 are for?
Not sure as it may be a different model to mine. Did it not come with instructions for the specific part? Typically fore has decent instructions for what each wire does. You can also try giving them a call, they were knowledgeable when I last spoke with their team.
@@DmitrysGarage I have the same year car as you . I was just confused on if it was the wires off the stock hat or the module on the right attached to the car itself
Killer video, super helpful!!
Do you run that 300v in your mustang ?
Yes, quite a few years now.
@@DmitrysGarage I been running 5w50 amsoil signature I was thinking of switching can’t decide which will be better i do sing high rpm coyote tones a lot what you think ?
@@scubagto420 Motul makes a good oil. I've had nothing but good oil analysis reports with it. Though these days all the big players make good oil especially Castrol. Amsoil is more niche but their stuff is usually good.
I do aviation electronics and those are the exact same splices and crimpers we use. I wonder where he “got them” from 🤣🤣
Oh he got them somewhere ;).
Has anyone heard anything about Jackal return style fuel system for e-85. Is it any good is it almost same install .
Not sure but I’ll look into the Jackal kit. One thing I can say for sure is that Fore Innovations (features in this video) makes a VERY high quality kit. You will know what i mean when you hold their machined parts in your hands. Its like holding a Rolex, you can tell someone tried really hard to make it nice.
System came with a vmp blower I picked up used. I wanted to see if it's worth installing it .i would still need to pick up fore innovation fuel rail. Since I wanted to get 1000cc injectors . I have my stock 2010 Shelby gt500 fuel rail . I want to replace it before putting on the blower since it's a gen 2 .
So I'm reading about this kit. Is it a single pump or a dual? I'd probably think about how old the fuel pump is. Those racing pumps don't tend to have long life spans. I'd probably swap the pump out. But the Jackal fuel pump hat seems fine to re-use. The rest is really just fittings and hoses. Are you planning to re-use that stuff? If not I'm sure Fore will sell you just those components too, it's all in their catalog. I do love the Fore fuel rails, so maybe just save the pump hat and any controller stuff it came with and see about refreshing everything else?
Keep it up man. You got my sub
Thanks Curtis! Appreciate your viewership.
Dmitry's Garage any time bud. Let’s get lunch sometime.
@@concernedcitizen2031 Yea if you're in the area we can make that happen.
Excellent video dude. What camera do you use?
Thanks man! I use the Sony AX53, so far it's been a workhorse. I've actually even dropped it on the concrete form about 4ft by accident once. Still works, has a few small cracks in the case lol.
Thanks for the info, I need that I'm probably lying shirt too lol.
Glad you enjoyed. I think that shirt was on point with all the silly BIC-1000 stuff my buddy Shelby was saying :).
Why all the wiring cant you just change the fuel pump
For this setup I'm running two 450lph pumps and each one draws 190W for a total of 380W. So you need at LEAST 8 AWG wire, which is rated to 400W. In this case I'm using 6 AWG. Dropping it in and using the factory wiring would be like trying to power a subwoofer without an amplifier from your rear speakers. Essentially this picks up a signal from the factory wiring and draws power directly from the battery when the car is on. It's pretty much the same idea as an amplifier install. There are a few plug & play drop-in systems but all the ones I've seen still need a voltage booster to pump more fuel, which shortens pump life. Plus those systems are still dead-head like OEM and not return style systems which is in my opinion less desirable. Furthermore they provide a bit more headroom than a factory pump with a voltage booster, so when you start to run out of head room you'll wind up replacing those drop in systems and losing the money you could have put in towards a custom system to begin with. Ultimately it depends on how much power you want to make and which fuel you want to run and how much risk (i.e. boost a pump frying your single fuel pump while doing a pull) you want to take.
@@DmitrysGarage wow thanks for the explination i want to use boostane and gas a drop in filter is not a good way to go i have a fuel pump booster vmp supercharger
Do you have to replace the fuel filter
Yea you do have to replace it so it's best to install it in such a way that it's serviceable. The replacement is opening it up and switching out the filter material.
Thanks
Great video !
Really helpful!
Always glad to help!
Call me a hater but yall took the clips out when they are push release not too big of a deal but then yall do everything with a night light no good lighting wat so ever and to add on top yall workin on the floor like WHY
I'm sorry you aren't happy with the 48 minute highly detailed video that I made many years ago for a new product no one at the time documented at this level of detail.
@ when u uploaded this video there were already plenty of cars and ppl running this same exact fuel system i ran it on plenty of customers cars the date of the upload shouldnt play any part in the actual work being done call me a hater but yall work is shitty 🤷🏻♂️
I see this dude crimping enviros and I'm like he was an AT or AE... sure as shit.
nope no way in hell am i doin that. boost a pump all day
Haha, it's not that bad man, just a lot of little things. It's a little challenging the first time you're doing it, but with the video and some of the great online write ups people have posted it shouldn't be too bad. The real downside is that most of us will only do this job once unless you own multiple Mustangs 🤑. On the flip side these skills should translate to future fuel system jobs on other cars you mod. Boost a pumps work too. I had a boost a pump, but they have their limits and there's always the risk of added strain on the stock pump. Also tuning is easier on a return system.
all those tools though i don't have any of that stuff. Great video though you should have done a video for the procharger install.
Yea I really wish I filmed the procharger install! I kinda started doing videos right after i installed it. Tool wise, most that stuff isn't crazy money, if you're modding cars a lot, doing any audio or other cabling stuff, then these will all come in handy. Links are in the description and i think all together it's under $150. That of course assumes you have a vice and other basic mechanics tools (sockets, wrenches, ratchets, etc...) The power tools I use are generally not required, just useful.