I just wanted to thank you for this video! Was having trouble opening my car door and was panicking. Bought the dry lube and did what you suggested and it opened right up. Thank you for saving me from a panic attack this morning and I hope that you keep posting videos.
I had issues with my 3 year old main door lock, I could barely put the key in there. I used WD-40 dry lube like you recommended and it works great now. Thank you for the video.
I can’t thank you enough my car key was sticking like crazy and my wife kept getting stuck somehow I was able to jiggle it and start it but she was stuck in the heat in Arizona for two hours with my son trying to get it.. bigthank this worked like a charm
That Teflon WD40 dry lube is great for lubing chains too. It doesn't attract crap and it doesn't fling off...or if it does it's solid and doesn't stick to the wheels.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It stands for Water Displacement 40. It is made to remove water and corrosion - "unfreezing" corroded parts. It appears to lubricate but that is because it unfrozen them and there is still "liquid there".......Once that "liquid" is gone there is nothing there to lubricate, which is usually within a day or so and then you have direct surface to surface. If you are using WD-40 for what is used for, you should follow up with the correct lubricant - after you "unstuck" or removed the corrosion so it is lubed and not freeze up again or cause unnecessary wear.
Excellent information/video. Should also help to keep locks from freezing up in northern climates. Oh yeah, it's probably best to step away from the gas pump when you're heating up the gas cap key with a lighter... Thanks!
Were you able to find a video on how to do the entire process of what you just did? I'm trying to understand how to clean out all the junk in the key ignition assembly cylinder first from all the previous times I put oil and lubricant down the keyhole. Is it just a product that you spray in there? But then where does all the junk go? Is there some kind of drain hole at the bottom of the cylinder that will allow the old debris and junk to escape out? If you found a video on how to disassemble the lock assembly, and pull it out from the triple tree, that would be even better! In my case, I do want to remove all the debris, and I also want to check for any worn wafers that might be in the cylinder.
Just when I thought I'd seen every helpful tip for a motorcycle... Good on you for this posting. Last fall on a long trip on my goldwing, I stopped for gas (which requires removing th ekey from the ignition and places it in the gas cap cover) and could not remove the key from the gas cap after filling up. It would turn but I couldn't pull it out. Fortunately I carry a second key and even more fortunately, it was in my coat and not locked in my top case or panniers. So, I used that key and drove on to where I found, of all things, a Honda shop. We squirted some WD 40 to get the key out. With your help, my first job tomorrow is to pull that lock and give it a good cleaning. Again, good work on a seldom covered topic.
That makes sense for the locks. When my FJR trunk lock got sticky, it looked like it was scraping, as you described, so I added one of those white plastic washers to lift the locking arm out of the way. It works well. I want to go back in and check for dirt. Thanks for all for the tips. Thor
I agree with you. I am going in to review and make it right. At the time, I just couldn't figure it out why the locking plate was scraping the plastic cylinder housing. Now I have an answer. Thanks.
Thor, do you have a link to a video showing how to take apart the key ignition assembly, to clean it all out? A locksmith told me that I might have a worn wafer, so I also want to take the lock assembly apart to see if that is the case as well. If you can provide a link to a video, that would be awesome, something specifically for motorcycles would be great. Yamaha motorcycles even better.
I was just about to spray a load of WD40 into my car lock. Having watched this I've just placed an order for some graphite lock sorter outer. I think that by watching this video you may have saved me a lot of time, money and agro.
Thanks for info and also good idea to come in from backside is the cylinder arm tab was bent on the vehicle I bought and hitting on the window rail so no matter what you would do on the outside nothing would have happened to lift up & open. Not sure how it got that way but the clip holding tab on was not fully clicked in to maybe allow play & then someone must have cranked on it to complete a nice bend.
Great video thanks. Was literally about to spray some WD40 into my motorcycle's ignition barrell as it has go a bit notchy and the steering lock is sometimes tricky to engage, but I've ordered some dry PTFE spray instead.
Thank you for the informative video. Is there anyway I can rectify if I already put in BP blaster - which worked just a little. Can I just add the lubricate after using the BP blaster? Thanks again.
Very informative. I'm about to buy and put normal wd40 in ignition switch. Saved by the bell i accidentally watched your video and will now look for the wd40 dry lube.
Thank for the Video! I purchased the WD40 Dry Lube at Home Depot; It worked great on my 'Work in Progress' 79 Z/28's Ignition Switch. Works like new now!
LOL. Yup, I figured that after I used...lets see...ah WD40, Liquid Wrench and some garage door lube. And yeah, I figured nope! This doesn't feel right at all. Thank you sir! Much appreciated! _(I had a Honda Accord 2002 with a broken key ignition and couldn't get it to turn. I took it apart, fixed the stuck spring and lubed it with your advice)_
Used WD40 and lock loosened after one appication. I had stopped using this door lock more than 5 years ago because it was stuck. 1999 Ford Expedition. Next I will eventually put some graphite or dry lube.
@@prince_sach50 I saw several youtube videos where they saw the WD40 attracts dust and dirt and will eventually stick again. So thanks for letting me know. I also figured even if this was true I could use WD40 again.
@@DadBodZaddy I'm in the same boat. So you're saying to use Electronics cleaner first, wait how long for it to dry? What happens to all the gunk that's in there? Does it Escape out through a drainage hole of some kind? So then once the Electronics cleaners dry, you're saying then go ahead and apply the WD-40 PTFE specialized product in this video?
Here's the dumb stuff... I hear ppl say to spray WD-40, but they don't specify the DRy Lube version! No wonder there's a bit of confusion. BTW, how is the graphite lubricant powder? Can I just pour a bit in and then try the key?
Starting is not the issue for me it's putting the key in. It goes in if you flip it over and try a few times. Not sure if it's worn out or dirty 😅 I'll have. A look and try this dry lube stuff
Another product you may want to consider is ACF-50. Developed by the Aerospace industry to protect against corrosion. It's an amazing lube and protector. Safe on all surfaces including electrical contacts. I used it the first time this year and am sticking with it.
I use ACF-50 on exposed parts of my cycle for the winter, but junk builds up on it like crazy. Needs a serious wipe down come spring. I wouldn't put that inside a lock. Besides, it protects against corrosion, not intended to lube anything.
Since carb cleaner dries fast, would this have the same effect? I have a Yamaha that is REALLY STICKING. From previous owner using straight wd40 for it I think it’s completely gunked. I sprayed some carb cleaner in it yesterday because it was recommended by another video. Hopefully I didn’t mess my lock up more!
Question: I already applied both WD-40 and electronic parts cleaner into my motorcycle's sticky ignition (I can't turn the key to start the bike). If I now try dry lube, will it mix with the aforementioned lubes and gum it up even worse than it already is?
I used White Lithium Grease on my motorcycle ignition barrel today... The immobilizer fuse burned on first ignition and now it won't start. I used every spray for cleaning the barrel, in effort to remove the white lithium grease. I hope the damage is only that because there was cable burning smoke coming out somewhere near the lock :|
Same boat. If you find a video, or figure out how to get all the old gunk out first, let me know. Something tells me that just spraying a product in there to clean out the old gunk won't actually remove it from the cylinder. Because where does it all go?
I hose my pad locks down with wd40 never had a problem but I just do that on padlocks on locks like a motorcycle you really wouldn’t want those getting jammed up
I tried WD40 PTFE spay on my car a few years ago. My door locks and hood lock rusted into a solid piece in one winter. I accidentally sprayed the paintwork too, it was almost impossible to remove. In the last 15 years, I used some kind of non driing oil or regular wd40 on my car locks, and they all repel salty water. Dust is not a problem, because these locks have dust cover on them.
I replaced steering column in my car and now when I turn on the key it's real stiff when turning I know there's something I can lubricate but I don't know what.
I was desperate so I used carburetor cleaner on the key to my shed and finally got it to unlock .I'm still making payments on shed ,company wants to charge 40 bucks to come change the lock .
Locksmith of 40 years here.....This is not true. Your auto locks and cycle locks are already lubricated with a petroleum or lithium type lubricant. Adding a dry lube will do exactly what you are claiming will happen if you use WD40. You are adding a dry powder to a wet environment. This will produce a low viscosity gunk that WILL attract and hold dirt. WD40 all day long folks.
I've been spraying my car door lock multiple times & it still wont unlock,i'm now starting to wonder if there's a slipped linkage in the door?,anyone else had this problem?
I would NOT recommend "Graphite" Products if you live in warmer and humid environments (such as the South Eastern US) because they a tenancy to gum up from absorbing water. Graphite is better suited for colder and drier climates.
I wouldn’t have thought so. I took my locks out and operated the key whilst in a cup of isopropyl and loads of crap came out of the lock. Then let it dry and then applied WD 40 dry lubricant. Locks worked treat afterwards.
Well shit, I already put wd40 in my ignition because I spend a good 3 minutes trying to turn my key over in my truck wiggling it and going in and out in and out then it finally it'll turn over. Wish I would have watched this before I did the wd40
Didn’t help my key ignition at all. It just started to get caught up and no dice.. Scotty Kilmer swears bye WD-40 original and supposed lock smith told him better then anything.. hmmm? 🤔
What's safe to clean the ignition out with before putting that dry lock lube , just want to give it a clean before I lube it but i can't remove it
Home Depot near me has a dry lube called Blaster Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon. It specifically mentions locks. Thanks for the video!
Is that pb blaster?,or something different?
@@neilcrompton3488 PB is the original version that same company makes.
Thx for the tips. I was goin right for my wd40 but i had a feeling it was a bad idea!
I just wanted to thank you for this video! Was having trouble opening my car door and was panicking. Bought the dry lube and did what you suggested and it opened right up. Thank you for saving me from a panic attack this morning and I hope that you keep posting videos.
Y to yr4 you
Yys see
I had issues with my 3 year old main door lock, I could barely put the key in there. I used WD-40 dry lube like you recommended and it works great now. Thank you for the video.
I can’t thank you enough my car key was sticking like crazy and my wife kept getting stuck somehow I was able to jiggle it and start it but she was stuck in the heat in Arizona for two hours with my son trying to get it.. bigthank this worked like a charm
That Teflon WD40 dry lube is great for lubing chains too. It doesn't attract crap and it doesn't fling off...or if it does it's solid and doesn't stick to the wheels.
I almost used wd-40. Thanks for this
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It stands for Water Displacement 40. It is made to remove water and corrosion - "unfreezing" corroded parts. It appears to lubricate but that is because it unfrozen them and there is still "liquid there".......Once that "liquid" is gone there is nothing there to lubricate, which is usually within a day or so and then you have direct surface to surface. If you are using WD-40 for what is used for, you should follow up with the correct lubricant - after you "unstuck" or removed the corrosion so it is lubed and not freeze up again or cause unnecessary wear.
Excellent information/video. Should also help to keep locks from freezing up in northern climates. Oh yeah, it's probably best to step away from the gas pump when you're heating up the gas cap key with a lighter... Thanks!
Thanks Brian! I've been a 'lock soaker' for years, and will pick up a can of dry lube.
excellent practical advise. I'm going to clean and dry lube all the locks on my FJR, FZ-07, CB450SC, and TU250X (my wife rides the last 2).
Were you able to find a video on how to do the entire process of what you just did? I'm trying to understand how to clean out all the junk in the key ignition assembly cylinder first from all the previous times I put oil and lubricant down the keyhole.
Is it just a product that you spray in there? But then where does all the junk go? Is there some kind of drain hole at the bottom of the cylinder that will allow the old debris and junk to escape out?
If you found a video on how to disassemble the lock assembly, and pull it out from the triple tree, that would be even better! In my case, I do want to remove all the debris, and I also want to check for any worn wafers that might be in the cylinder.
It's the middle of 2022 and this video is still saving keys from bending!
Just when I thought I'd seen every helpful tip for a motorcycle... Good on you for this posting. Last fall on a long trip on my goldwing, I stopped for gas (which requires removing th ekey from the ignition and places it in the gas cap cover) and could not remove the key from the gas cap after filling up. It would turn but I couldn't pull it out. Fortunately I carry a second key and even more fortunately, it was in my coat and not locked in my top case or panniers. So, I used that key and drove on to where I found, of all things, a Honda shop. We squirted some WD 40 to get the key out. With your help, my first job tomorrow is to pull that lock and give it a good cleaning. Again, good work on a seldom covered topic.
Thanks - same for bike chains. Dry lube stops attracting all the dirt.
That makes sense for the locks. When my FJR trunk lock got sticky, it looked like it was scraping, as you described, so I added one of those white plastic washers to lift the locking arm out of the way. It works well. I want to go back in and check for dirt.
Thanks for all for the tips.
Thor
I would never do that. You just lessened the already limited threads of the holding screws. There's no need to do any such thing.
I agree with you. I am going in to review and make it right. At the time, I just couldn't figure it out why the locking plate was scraping the plastic cylinder housing. Now I have an answer. Thanks.
Thor, do you have a link to a video showing how to take apart the key ignition assembly, to clean it all out?
A locksmith told me that I might have a worn wafer, so I also want to take the lock assembly apart to see if that is the case as well. If you can provide a link to a video, that would be awesome, something specifically for motorcycles would be great. Yamaha motorcycles even better.
Thank you for that starting and thumbnail.
I was just about to spray a load of WD40 into my car lock. Having watched this I've just placed an order for some graphite lock sorter outer. I think that by watching this video you may have saved me a lot of time, money and agro.
Got It! After heavy atmospheric rain get a lock dry lubricant. Fast acting is review video. 😊
Thanks for info and also good idea to come in from backside is the cylinder arm tab was bent on the vehicle I bought and hitting on the window rail so no matter what you would do on the outside nothing would have happened to lift up & open. Not sure how it got that way but the clip holding tab on was not fully clicked in to maybe allow play & then someone must have cranked on it to complete a nice bend.
I’ve been having issues with my ignition on my vstar since last hear. Gonna follow your advice and make this into my typical maintenance routine.
Brilliant - thank you! The dealership said to use lithium grease, so thanks for setting me straight.
Very helpful man thank you so much. I was ready to give up
You rock
Awesome. Thank you so much for this video and for mentioning which DW40 is the right one for locks.
Great video thanks. Was literally about to spray some WD40 into my motorcycle's ignition barrell as it has go a bit notchy and the steering lock is sometimes tricky to engage, but I've ordered some dry PTFE spray instead.
Normal WD40 worked fine for me. Never broke again after using that.
Your tip sir I brilliant. Just ordered some of that pfte spray from Amazon ! No oil!!!!
The ignition on my NC750X gt stuck yesterday. Gonna try this out. Thanks!!
Thank you for the informative video. Is there anyway I can rectify if I already put in BP blaster - which worked just a little. Can I just add the lubricate after using the BP blaster? Thanks again.
Very informative. I'm about to buy and put normal wd40 in ignition switch. Saved by the bell i accidentally watched your video and will now look for the wd40 dry lube.
Thank for the Video! I purchased the WD40 Dry Lube at Home Depot; It worked great on my 'Work in Progress' 79 Z/28's Ignition Switch. Works like new now!
Remember to shake the can well right before spraying!
Pb blaster seems to do the trick. Thank you
LOL. Yup, I figured that after I used...lets see...ah WD40, Liquid Wrench and some garage door lube. And yeah, I figured nope! This doesn't feel right at all. Thank you sir! Much appreciated!
_(I had a Honda Accord 2002 with a broken key ignition and couldn't get it to turn. I took it apart, fixed the stuck spring and lubed it with your advice)_
Used WD40 and lock loosened after one appication. I had stopped using this door lock more than 5 years ago because it was stuck. 1999 Ford Expedition. Next I will eventually put some graphite or dry lube.
No WD-40 only makes the moisture dry up
@@prince_sach50 I saw several youtube videos where they saw the WD40 attracts dust and dirt and will eventually stick again. So thanks for letting me know. I also figured even if this was true I could use WD40 again.
@@prince_sach50 All I know is my door lock working great. So I lean towards your truth as superior.
What is the best solution to clean off the lock parts from the old improper lubricants previously used?
Spirit Walker I used compressed air and electronics cleaner
@@DadBodZaddy I'm in the same boat. So you're saying to use Electronics cleaner first, wait how long for it to dry? What happens to all the gunk that's in there? Does it Escape out through a drainage hole of some kind?
So then once the Electronics cleaners dry, you're saying then go ahead and apply the WD-40 PTFE specialized product in this video?
I have a number lock that got something or other spilled inside it. It still works but it's a little stuff, what do you recommend
Will the dry lube work on a sticky gate lock to a house?
Here's the dumb stuff... I hear ppl say to spray WD-40, but they don't specify the DRy Lube version! No wonder there's a bit of confusion. BTW, how is the graphite lubricant powder? Can I just pour a bit in and then try the key?
You can use shavings from a pencil led at a pinch.
Starting is not the issue for me it's putting the key in. It goes in if you flip it over and try a few times. Not sure if it's worn out or dirty 😅 I'll have. A look and try this dry lube stuff
Another product you may want to consider is ACF-50. Developed by the Aerospace industry to protect against corrosion. It's an amazing lube and protector. Safe on all surfaces including electrical contacts. I used it the first time this year and am sticking with it.
I use ACF-50 on exposed parts of my cycle for the winter, but junk builds up on it like crazy. Needs a serious wipe down come spring. I wouldn't put that inside a lock. Besides, it protects against corrosion, not intended to lube anything.
I wouldn't, if you think wd40 is sticky, acf50 is really sticky! Dirt loves it!
Since carb cleaner dries fast, would this have the same effect? I have a Yamaha that is REALLY STICKING. From previous owner using straight wd40 for it I think it’s completely gunked. I sprayed some carb cleaner in it yesterday because it was recommended by another video. Hopefully I didn’t mess my lock up more!
You're amazing. Thank you.
What do you recommend to do if I used regular WD-40 without knowing it was bad for locks? Should I try the dry lube version of it?
How to stop your key freezing in your lock in winter? Thanks
Now I know,awesome,thanks
What happens if I already used regular WD40 in the lock? Can I use the graphite in after?
Question: I already applied both WD-40 and electronic parts cleaner into my motorcycle's sticky ignition (I can't turn the key to start the bike). If I now try dry lube, will it mix with the aforementioned lubes and gum it up even worse than it already is?
I bought lock ease and the red stick does not fit- so I sprayed the key. I hope that is good enough.
I used White Lithium Grease on my motorcycle ignition barrel today... The immobilizer fuse burned on first ignition and now it won't start. I used every spray for cleaning the barrel, in effort to remove the white lithium grease. I hope the damage is only that because there was cable burning smoke coming out somewhere near the lock :|
Let’s just say that I used WD-40 in my ignition and it tracks a lot of dirt. Is there any way to undo it or clean it out?
Same boat. If you find a video, or figure out how to get all the old gunk out first, let me know. Something tells me that just spraying a product in there to clean out the old gunk won't actually remove it from the cylinder. Because where does it all go?
@@OldCootProductReviews it'll drain out through the bottom, use a air compressor to blow the dirt out to help
@@OldCootProductReviews use brake cleaner to clean old gunk out
I hose my pad locks down with wd40 never had a problem but I just do that on padlocks on locks like a motorcycle you really wouldn’t want those getting jammed up
Very use full good information
Thank you!
Which lube is best for petrol tank lock ?
Great advice as always. Thank you.
I tried WD40 PTFE spay on my car a few years ago. My door locks and hood lock rusted into a solid piece in one winter. I accidentally sprayed the paintwork too, it was almost impossible to remove. In the last 15 years, I used some kind of non driing oil or regular wd40 on my car locks, and they all repel salty water. Dust is not a problem, because these locks have dust cover on them.
My Honda Civic has the same problem. I can’t get the key into the ignition.
I replaced steering column in my car and now when I turn on the key it's real stiff when turning I know there's something I can lubricate but I don't know what.
Can this work on a car key ignition.
Thank you
What about a riding mower ignition. Key turns no problem but doesn’t come out
Got it. Blue loctite in lock cylinders.
Great info. Thanks man
What about graphite?
its the same as that little tube with graphite powder mentioned in a video. You may use knife on a pencil to get it all free!
I enjoy your videos BG.
I always used Dry Teflon
I was desperate so I used carburetor cleaner on the key to my shed and finally got it to unlock .I'm still making payments on shed ,company wants to charge 40 bucks to come change the lock .
Nice vid very helpful
Honda and Toyota use grease in their locks from the factory IE car door locks
Guess I'm screwed then as I already put WD40 into the lock and the door handle from the inside hardly turns.
Locksmith of 40 years here.....This is not true. Your auto locks and cycle locks are already lubricated with a petroleum or lithium type lubricant. Adding a dry lube will do exactly what you are claiming will happen if you use WD40. You are adding a dry powder to a wet environment. This will produce a low viscosity gunk that WILL attract and hold dirt. WD40 all day long folks.
Instructions unclear. Put blue loctite in my car door and it's stuck worse than ever
Come on really? He didn't say to use Blue Loctite. He said that it comes in a tube like the Blue Loctite. You must be joking.
@@eyesalooking lol...yes.
good info...thx
does anyone know how to wash greasy cilinder lock on a motorcycle (i sprayed whit WD40)
If you figure this out, let me know. I'm in the same boat. I'm trying to flush out all the old crap first from the ignition key assembly part.
Good advise
can you used dry lube after the lock siezed up cause I had used the Regular lubricant thank you
Dry is only for maintenance, it won't penetrate anything
dude you couldnt find more dirt particles?!!!
I dont know what to do i just watched scotty kilmer and he said to use wd40 and not graphite
I've been spraying my car door lock multiple times & it still wont unlock,i'm now starting to wonder if there's a slipped linkage in the door?,anyone else had this problem?
I would NOT recommend "Graphite" Products if you live in warmer and humid environments (such as the South Eastern US) because they a tenancy to gum up from absorbing water. Graphite is better suited for colder and drier climates.
Will graphite remove wd40?
I wouldn’t have thought so. I took my locks out and operated the key whilst in a cup of isopropyl and loads of crap came out of the lock. Then let it dry and then applied WD 40 dry lubricant. Locks worked treat afterwards.
Well shit, I already put wd40 in my ignition because I spend a good 3 minutes trying to turn my key over in my truck wiggling it and going in and out in and out then it finally it'll turn over. Wish I would have watched this before I did the wd40
Good info, but I almost feel asleep
Didn’t help my key ignition at all. It just started to get caught up and no dice.. Scotty Kilmer swears bye WD-40 original and supposed lock smith told him better then anything.. hmmm? 🤔
good to know b
I litteraly just used almost everything he told me not to use 🙁
I just 01 it through the window
Thanks Seth Rogan
graphite
If those products attract dirt like a magnet doesn’t that mean we should use them becuase magnets don’t attract dirt
Sorry it wasn’t funny
WD40 probably the worst thing you could put in a lock
Worked fine for me. Never had a problem after using WD40.
He is using wd40 dry lube, it's one of the best things you can put in a lock.
Think about lint from your pocket. Yeah 😆yeah then dirt water etc....
Wd40 every day or get the good stuffand quit fidling around
Thank you