Great work. Those CV joints look like they need replacing. The grease has had it even though the boots look in fair condition. It is a filthy job and could take a whole episode to complete. Access to a parts washer is virtually mandatory. Probably best to keep each 'set' of balls and their respective cradle as a unit through out. Disassemble each then reassemble the same parts into its respective CV cage. (there could be wear that is different on each CV). I would suggest once refreshed each are replaced back to its original position on the axle (i.e. left outer refit to left outer, left inner refit to left inner etc.). New grease and boots also check the condition of the balls. One of my CV's had a ball that had a chip out of it, god knows how that could have happen. There are some excellent info / video on rennlist which will save you time and effort. Good luck and keep up the good work.
I'll give the CV joints a good clean and lets see whats what. Im hoping they just need new grease (lets put it this way.... they are getting new grease and going back on the car :) )
Hub nut removal on my 911 should be the same. Place a 1M bar between 2 of the studs and let the bar rotate to the floor and jam. That will stop the hub rotation. Put a breaker bar, extension and socket on the nut and heave ho. I got mine off and torqued on that way.
Thanks Dave, I just did my 911 using a 4ft long bar over my socket set and applying 38kgs. I didn’t fancy applying that amount of force to a car on axel stands (especially knowing one sill is rotten!). Thanks for tip though, I actually did this to undo the half shaft bolts :)
Just finished our 928's rear shocks (dampers) and brakes a few days ago. We must have been doing the some of the same jobs at the same time, but across the pond from each other. I didn't disassemble our rear suspension as much as you did though. I will have to pull the axil shafts soon to replace the CV boots. Will be referencing your content like usual when I do. Keep it coming!
Hey C3K! funny, I just watched your video :) ... I was going to (and should have) gone further with removing bits, but I couldnt get the bolt undone that links the lower control arm to the car (near sill), and I didn't want to break it off, ruin the bushes and incurr a £400 bushes bill.... Its all easy stuff so I'll remove once they fail. I didn't include in the video, but I also removed the CV joints from half-shafts and sent the shafts off to be powder coated :) Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd, I have been following your rebuild for a while and a half, and have finally taken the plunge and bought a US spec Jensen Interceptor. It is an Arizona car and rust, paint and leather free, and in boxes.Thanks so much for the inspiration I feel more or less up for the challenge of a more agricultural car than the complex 928. Looking for ward to following the rest of the rebuild.
Wow thats amazing! I love Interceptors…. What a great car!! Take your time, don’t look at the end goal, just the next step ahead of you - you will be fine :)
Todd, Took a break for 10 months from my '81 restoration. Going back to it next week. While you did not remove the handbrake cables from the rear hubs, I wonder if you had anyone refer you and sources on how to do that? As purchased the attachment from the cable to the parking brake shoe mechanism was broken so I have to remove the cables. Specific question is "is it possible to remove the metal sleeve that appears to be pressed in the hub (through which the cable travels)? Or maybe more appropriately - Must I remove that in order to fit a new cable? Many thanks for all the inspiration.
Hi Timothy, good to have you back! That is a good question, and one that stumped me. I never managed to get the handbrake cable away from either hub. From what I could see you need to undo the axel nut and pull off the piece with the wheel studs. That allows you to get at the end of the cable. When I searched on Rennlist (biggest 928 forum) it appeasr the rigid sleeve you are after is just pressed in, so should twist/wiggle out. Let me know how you get on! Instagram might be easier to chat...
At the very start of the project I was kindly given a full set of S4 dampers. I have already used the front ones and will now fit the rear. I am wondering if that is why my front rides a little high, but I will deal with that after the rear is back together :)
Hopefully! It’s a shame not to take the other bits off, but I can’t easily get that lower control arm off (not without breaking the bolt and bushes) and that stops me removing the cross member. … when those bushes need replacing Il take it all off then :). All I care about is fixing that CLUNK :)
So awesome! My favorite part of restoring my cars is the suspension refresh! Removing, identifying what needs to be replaced, cleaning everything up, and reassembling. In regards to the springs, are there any shops that can reproduce a similar spring as the OEM spring? We have a few shops that do that here in the US. Hopefully you do. Those springs are definitely worn. New ones will make a huge improvement. Also, I noticed you are calling the bushings "bushes".
Oh good catch on the bushings! My bad. Springs will have to be happy with a blasting and powder coating. Won’t be able to replace them this time round :( Thanks for watching :)
I think you made a good choice on not messing with the hand brake cable. I, too, tend to create additional work for myself. Sometimes it's better to save certain tasks for later.
Keep going Todd... You sound just as enthusiastic now as you did in video one!
Thanks Neil, yeah, and I’m having just as much fun :). Are you restoring a lotus? My friend is going an esprit S3…. Have a look at SportsAndGT channel
Found and subscribed :)
@@MrToddgibbs Yes, I found your channel through his...
@@MrToddgibbs Yes, I am restoring a Lotus Excel from 1988..
Fantastic, I'll go watch :)
Great work. Those CV joints look like they need replacing. The grease has had it even though the boots look in fair condition. It is a filthy job and could take a whole episode to complete. Access to a parts washer is virtually mandatory. Probably best to keep each 'set' of balls and their respective cradle as a unit through out. Disassemble each then reassemble the same parts into its respective CV cage. (there could be wear that is different on each CV). I would suggest once refreshed each are replaced back to its original position on the axle (i.e. left outer refit to left outer, left inner refit to left inner etc.). New grease and boots also check the condition of the balls. One of my CV's had a ball that had a chip out of it, god knows how that could have happen. There are some excellent info / video on rennlist which will save you time and effort. Good luck and keep up the good work.
I'll give the CV joints a good clean and lets see whats what. Im hoping they just need new grease (lets put it this way.... they are getting new grease and going back on the car :) )
Hub nut removal on my 911 should be the same. Place a 1M bar between 2 of the studs and let the bar rotate to the floor and jam. That will stop the hub rotation. Put a breaker bar, extension and socket on the nut and heave ho. I got mine off and torqued on that way.
Thanks Dave, I just did my 911 using a 4ft long bar over my socket set and applying 38kgs. I didn’t fancy applying that amount of force to a car on axel stands (especially knowing one sill is rotten!). Thanks for tip though, I actually did this to undo the half shaft bolts :)
Just finished our 928's rear shocks (dampers) and brakes a few days ago. We must have been doing the some of the same jobs at the same time, but across the pond from each other. I didn't disassemble our rear suspension as much as you did though. I will have to pull the axil shafts soon to replace the CV boots. Will be referencing your content like usual when I do. Keep it coming!
Hey C3K! funny, I just watched your video :) ... I was going to (and should have) gone further with removing bits, but I couldnt get the bolt undone that links the lower control arm to the car (near sill), and I didn't want to break it off, ruin the bushes and incurr a £400 bushes bill.... Its all easy stuff so I'll remove once they fail.
I didn't include in the video, but I also removed the CV joints from half-shafts and sent the shafts off to be powder coated :)
Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd, I have been following your rebuild for a while and a half, and have finally taken the plunge and bought a US spec Jensen Interceptor. It is an Arizona car and rust, paint and leather free, and in boxes.Thanks so much for the inspiration I feel more or less up for the challenge of a more agricultural car than the complex 928.
Looking for ward to following the rest of the rebuild.
Wow thats amazing! I love Interceptors…. What a great car!! Take your time, don’t look at the end goal, just the next step ahead of you - you will be fine :)
Todd, Took a break for 10 months from my '81 restoration. Going back to it next week. While you did not remove the handbrake cables from the rear hubs, I wonder if you had anyone refer you and sources on how to do that? As purchased the attachment from the cable to the parking brake shoe mechanism was broken so I have to remove the cables. Specific question is "is it possible to remove the metal sleeve that appears to be pressed in the hub (through which the cable travels)? Or maybe more appropriately - Must I remove that in order to fit a new cable? Many thanks for all the inspiration.
Hi Timothy, good to have you back! That is a good question, and one that stumped me. I never managed to get the handbrake cable away from either hub. From what I could see you need to undo the axel nut and pull off the piece with the wheel studs. That allows you to get at the end of the cable. When I searched on Rennlist (biggest 928 forum) it appeasr the rigid sleeve you are after is just pressed in, so should twist/wiggle out. Let me know how you get on! Instagram might be easier to chat...
What shock will you use, will you change all four?
At the very start of the project I was kindly given a full set of S4 dampers. I have already used the front ones and will now fit the rear. I am wondering if that is why my front rides a little high, but I will deal with that after the rear is back together :)
Tackling the Poltergeist. I'm first today to wonder how it is going to work out...
Lol you are first :)
Its going to look great when its all powder coated
Hopefully! It’s a shame not to take the other bits off, but I can’t easily get that lower control arm off (not without breaking the bolt and bushes) and that stops me removing the cross member. … when those bushes need replacing Il take it all off then :). All I care about is fixing that CLUNK :)
So awesome! My favorite part of restoring my cars is the suspension refresh! Removing, identifying what needs to be replaced, cleaning everything up, and reassembling.
In regards to the springs, are there any shops that can reproduce a similar spring as the OEM spring? We have a few shops that do that here in the US. Hopefully you do. Those springs are definitely worn. New ones will make a huge improvement.
Also, I noticed you are calling the bushings "bushes".
Oh good catch on the bushings! My bad.
Springs will have to be happy with a blasting and powder coating. Won’t be able to replace them this time round :(
Thanks for watching :)
I think you made a good choice on not messing with the hand brake cable. I, too, tend to create additional work for myself. Sometimes it's better to save certain tasks for later.
Some of that was not out of choice.... I just could not undo it :( But yes, Im learning that something its ok to not do everything.
Nice work 👍
thanks for watching :)
Hiya,
Can you remind me, what year is your 928 and manual or auto?
Hey, 1979 auto.
Save some for later. I try to do the same.
lol Rome wasnt built in a day :)