I agree completely with the description of the NOZx needles. This is what I race with. I call it "Burble burble BANG", lol. When I race I am usually opening the throttle to 50% or more immediately, sometimes with a feathered clutch to increase the hit even more. But my 2018 KTM 300XC with the 38mm Air Stryker and an NOZx needle will not, EVER, deliver smooth power upon opening the throttle 10-20%. I would need to try something else for a hard enduro situation. I can manage some hard enduro but I still need to hit a maneuver with more of an aggressive action than a smooth and subtle hand. NOZx isn't subtle. I race mostly enduro settings so it's great. I ride once a year in Colorado at elevations up to 12,000ft. I abandon the NOZx. I've tried the NECJ and it is better but for altitude, I currently am liking a DDJ, second clip with a 160 main. Runs fabulous at 7,000 ft and deteriorates as I climb. I know there is no jetting that can run great from 7,000 ft up to 12,000ft so we just deal with the yucky rich way up high.
I have an 08 ktm 300 xcw and I tried the necj needle, off the hook low end snap exactly what I was looking for but mid range and top end were terrible! top end was like a rev limiter? so I went back to standard ktm needle.
Then your main was wrong, likely too lean. Especially if the temps are changing significantly now that winter is approaching. Although the profile of the top does somewhat affect wide open throttle, any adjustments should be made to the main jet for that throttle position. Your needle wasn’t the problem.
This is the 'needle in a haystack' video I've been looking for! I have a 2012 KTM 300 XCW, trying to clean up the just off throttle response you have described. Here's the question. If I just want to order and try maybe 3 different ones, say the G,H & W or the H, W & J, would I want the 'NEC' version or the 'NED' version? I know you said there was a slight difference (one was a little leaner I think?). You said you went the the H, was it the C or D? Thanks again for the video, it's gold! - Chuck
Hey buddy. Glad I was able to help, if at all. First off, I wouldn’t recommend the G or H for a big bore (250/300) bike. I haven’t personally jetted those bikes, but I know that the bigger bores need a leaner needle. I’d guess the W or J would be a better option (I think most posts I’ve read with happy riders, they opted for the NECJ). Also, the only difference with D and C is 1/2 clip. So it wouldn’t really matter which you start with. Having one of each is nice for fine tuning as the temps change from season to season. But really, the difference is very small. I’d recommend going on KTMTalk website. There are many, many threads which will help you find tune to your particular bike. Hope that helps
Thanks again for the suggestions! I ended up installing a JD Jetting kit; red needle, 38 pilot, and a 162 main on my 300 XCW and now it's a different bike. I have that predictable off throttle response I was looking for! Appreciate you man!@@jotacalvo
Yes the Suzuki needles clean up the bottom end on the bigger bores also. But the 250/300’s require a slightly leaner needle. I can’t say that I know for sure, since I ride a 200. But I believe the bigger bore riders like the J series needles (NECJ for example).
@@jotacalvo Awesome, thank you. Right now we are working on dialing in the jetting with a everything stock except a FMF Gnarly pipe and FMF TurbineCore II silencer. She smokes too much and power delivery is janky. Hoping this along with some other minot tweaks can get us to some smoother power
I'm trying to dial in a beta 300. I swapped to a necj from a stock nozj needle thinking it would solve all my problems but it actually got worse. Trying to clean up that slow throttle range around 1/8-1/4. Before with nozj bike would stumble a bit off idle then finally wake up once above 1/4 throttle. But now it just bogs hard until 1/4 throttle. My pilot jet is probably rich too - think it needs to be a 35 instead of a 38 but I want to focus on one function at a time to set a good baseline. Any thoughts?
If you’re bogging, that’s a sign of too lean, not rich. How old is your pilot? You may need to replace it if it has sat in fuel with ethanol. Also, your air screw is your friend. Does the bike change characteristics when you change the air screw? What is your method for setting the screw? I don’t know what the recommended specs are for a Beta 300, so I’m sorry that I can’t offer help with setting a baseline. If you’re riding a XTrainer, aren’t they tuned for more smooth power delivery on bottom? I’m not overly familiar with those, but I’ve always heard how they’re a creeping billygoat. Ive not heard of people searching for new needles, as I believe they’re set up pretty well. My first though for you is to put the original needle back in, replace the pilot jet, go back to the factory settings and then tune from there.
Hi man! Perfect explanation. But how to choose settings for my TE 250 2015 (Keihin S36). In manual i have to use N2ZG/175. How to compare - n2zg = necg ? (or nedg). And what about main jet settings for suzuki needle? For example if I change equal needle to NECG - shall I leave 175 main jet or change it as well?
There is no correlation to your stock needle. That’s pretty much the point. It completely changes the power delivery. The best I can recommend is to try one out. Or get on the forums and do the research, or ask, for what is recommended for your particular bike. My guess is that any 250 with the same carb will respond similarly. It’s likely you’re going to want to be a little leaner than the NEDG due to your displacement. As far as main jet, I don’t know the profile of the needles you mentioned. But the Suzuki needles are a triple taper, rather sharp. So it’s possible that’s going to increase your fuel flow at wide open throttle. Either way, there’s a LOT of info on this needle on KTMTalk and ThumperTalk. Ask on there and report back, if you don’t mind? It might help others here...
@@jotacalvo Thanks for open answer! First I've checked on those forums - 100 opinions. And I bought my bike with this setting from this site ( www.twostrokeperformance.com.au/ktm-2/ ) 2014-2016: 40, NECW or N2ZW clip 3, 170 main, AS1,75. I use with NECW/170/40 Suza needle. And actually i feel good, consumption very high and mix is reach. This i can see on spark plug and on exhaust valve. And now i have no idea what to use.
@@usershmuser555 are you on Facebook? You can message me there if you like. I’ll help all I can. My identity on FB is Georg Festrunk. I’m on KTM swap meet, KTM 200 club, Dirt Bike Mechanics. All groups on there. Then you can message me through messenger.
No sé mucho de esa marca, ni el 300. Sin embargo, he leído de otros (con KTM 300) quienes usan NECJ. Pero no estoy seguro. Mi moto tiene un 36mm y 200 motor. Aun en la misma moto, 36 y 38 son muy differentes. ¿Estás en los EEUU? JD Jetting te puede ayudar mucho. Disculpa mi español ☹️
A leaner needle does indeed produce a smoother acceleration over the stock needle, when the stock needle is so rich that the bike stumbles over itself. And you are correct, it’s the taper of the needle. The taper section of the Suzuki needle is where it is truly leaner. My description is simply an overall explanation of the advantages of the Suzuki needles over stock for slow woods riding, for those who are wondering if it’s for their riding style. I wasn’t attempting to dissect the engineering and design behind needles
Good video 👍 I got a splutter 1/2 throttle can’t get rid of it , I’m guessing the needle is rich from stock , husky tx 125 tmx 38 Mikuni carb , any ideas on what needle I could try ?
![How To Tell If Pilot Jet Is Rich or Lean [Jetting Symptoms]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dzFzWIZsuDg/mqdefault.jpg)
I agree completely with the description of the NOZx needles. This is what I race with. I call it "Burble burble BANG", lol. When I race I am usually opening the throttle to 50% or more immediately, sometimes with a feathered clutch to increase the hit even more. But my 2018 KTM 300XC with the 38mm Air Stryker and an NOZx needle will not, EVER, deliver smooth power upon opening the throttle 10-20%. I would need to try something else for a hard enduro situation. I can manage some hard enduro but I still need to hit a maneuver with more of an aggressive action than a smooth and subtle hand. NOZx isn't subtle. I race mostly enduro settings so it's great. I ride once a year in Colorado at elevations up to 12,000ft. I abandon the NOZx. I've tried the NECJ and it is better but for altitude, I currently am liking a DDJ, second clip with a 160 main. Runs fabulous at 7,000 ft and deteriorates as I climb. I know there is no jetting that can run great from 7,000 ft up to 12,000ft so we just deal with the yucky rich way up high.
I did this mod on my 2015 XC-W 200.
You are correct! The hit is way more predictable. Thanks for sharing!
which needle did you end up settling on? i ride 5000 - 10000 ft and im thinking the nedw
Good explanation. I knew the needle was popular but I didn't know exactky why. 👍
Good carb tuning is all in the needle.
In my 300 KTMs, Huskys and Betas, I use the Suzuki NEDJ needle for 5,000 to 10,000 ft elevation.
Yes. The 250/300's are a different animal. The J diameter is good for them, but usually much too lean for the 200's.
@@jotacalvo yep.
@@jotacalvo what would be a good needle for a beta 200 at 5,000 to 10,000 ft elevation? NEDW?
1997 ktm 360, 2021 ktm 125xc, 2020 beta 300, 2019 yz250x ALL woods setup and ALL with THE SUZUKI NEEDLES! always always always
In the yz250x what configuration do you have? what needle position? which needle is it and which injectors do you use? Thank you
@@freddysegovia1987 1000 feet 32:1, RK head, stock header, fmf pc, g2 throttle tamer, bmc air filter, outwears prefilter, necj -37FE0 #2, 170MJ, 42 PJ. tight woods setup crisp grunt hit and im NOT a high rev-er/pinner
@@freddysegovia1987 ua-cam.com/video/9NU1GWN893w/v-deo.html
what needle is in your 125?
I have an 08 ktm 300 xcw and I tried the necj needle, off the hook low end snap exactly what I was looking for but mid range and top end were terrible! top end was like a rev limiter? so I went back to standard ktm needle.
Then your main was wrong, likely too lean. Especially if the temps are changing significantly now that winter is approaching. Although the profile of the top does somewhat affect wide open throttle, any adjustments should be made to the main jet for that throttle position. Your needle wasn’t the problem.
This is the 'needle in a haystack' video I've been looking for! I have a 2012 KTM 300 XCW, trying to clean up the just off throttle response you have described. Here's the question. If I just want to order and try maybe 3 different ones, say the G,H & W or the H, W & J, would I want the 'NEC' version or the 'NED' version? I know you said there was a slight difference (one was a little leaner I think?). You said you went the the H, was it the C or D? Thanks again for the video, it's gold! - Chuck
Hey buddy. Glad I was able to help, if at all. First off, I wouldn’t recommend the G or H for a big bore (250/300) bike. I haven’t personally jetted those bikes, but I know that the bigger bores need a leaner needle. I’d guess the W or J would be a better option (I think most posts I’ve read with happy riders, they opted for the NECJ). Also, the only difference with D and C is 1/2 clip. So it wouldn’t really matter which you start with. Having one of each is nice for fine tuning as the temps change from season to season. But really, the difference is very small.
I’d recommend going on KTMTalk website. There are many, many threads which will help you find tune to your particular bike. Hope that helps
Thanks again for the suggestions! I ended up installing a JD Jetting kit; red needle, 38 pilot, and a 162 main on my 300 XCW and now it's a different bike. I have that predictable off throttle response I was looking for! Appreciate you man!@@jotacalvo
Would this work for a 2005 KTM 250 EXC you think? Running a KEIHIN PWK S 36 AG and usually ride anywhere between 300 - 700 elevation
Yes the Suzuki needles clean up the bottom end on the bigger bores also. But the 250/300’s require a slightly leaner needle. I can’t say that I know for sure, since I ride a 200. But I believe the bigger bore riders like the J series needles (NECJ for example).
@@jotacalvo Awesome, thank you. Right now we are working on dialing in the jetting with a everything stock except a FMF Gnarly pipe and FMF TurbineCore II silencer. She smokes too much and power delivery is janky. Hoping this along with some other minot tweaks can get us to some smoother power
I'm trying to dial in a beta 300. I swapped to a necj from a stock nozj needle thinking it would solve all my problems but it actually got worse. Trying to clean up that slow throttle range around 1/8-1/4. Before with nozj bike would stumble a bit off idle then finally wake up once above 1/4 throttle. But now it just bogs hard until 1/4 throttle. My pilot jet is probably rich too - think it needs to be a 35 instead of a 38 but I want to focus on one function at a time to set a good baseline. Any thoughts?
If you’re bogging, that’s a sign of too lean, not rich. How old is your pilot? You may need to replace it if it has sat in fuel with ethanol. Also, your air screw is your friend. Does the bike change characteristics when you change the air screw? What is your method for setting the screw? I don’t know what the recommended specs are for a Beta 300, so I’m sorry that I can’t offer help with setting a baseline.
If you’re riding a XTrainer, aren’t they tuned for more smooth power delivery on bottom? I’m not overly familiar with those, but I’ve always heard how they’re a creeping billygoat. Ive not heard of people searching for new needles, as I believe they’re set up pretty well. My first though for you is to put the original needle back in, replace the pilot jet, go back to the factory settings and then tune from there.
Hi man! Perfect explanation. But how to choose settings for my TE 250 2015 (Keihin S36). In manual i have to use N2ZG/175. How to compare - n2zg = necg ? (or nedg). And what about main jet settings for suzuki needle? For example if I change equal needle to NECG - shall I leave 175 main jet or change it as well?
There is no correlation to your stock needle. That’s pretty much the point. It completely changes the power delivery. The best I can recommend is to try one out. Or get on the forums and do the research, or ask, for what is recommended for your particular bike. My guess is that any 250 with the same carb will respond similarly. It’s likely you’re going to want to be a little leaner than the NEDG due to your displacement.
As far as main jet, I don’t know the profile of the needles you mentioned. But the Suzuki needles are a triple taper, rather sharp. So it’s possible that’s going to increase your fuel flow at wide open throttle. Either way, there’s a LOT of info on this needle on KTMTalk and ThumperTalk. Ask on there and report back, if you don’t mind? It might help others here...
@@jotacalvo Thanks for open answer! First I've checked on those forums - 100 opinions. And I bought my bike with this setting from this site ( www.twostrokeperformance.com.au/ktm-2/ ) 2014-2016: 40, NECW or N2ZW clip 3, 170 main, AS1,75. I use with NECW/170/40 Suza needle. And actually i feel good, consumption very high and mix is reach. This i can see on spark plug and on exhaust valve. And now i have no idea what to use.
@@usershmuser555 are you on Facebook? You can message me there if you like. I’ll help all I can.
My identity on FB is Georg Festrunk. I’m on KTM swap meet, KTM 200 club, Dirt Bike Mechanics. All groups on there. Then you can message me through messenger.
@@usershmuser555 facebook.com/georg.festrunk
Saludos q me recomienda para 1,500 pies de altura en un carburador keihin 38 ando en una rieju mr 300
No sé mucho de esa marca, ni el 300. Sin embargo, he leído de otros (con KTM 300) quienes usan NECJ. Pero no estoy seguro. Mi moto tiene un 36mm y 200 motor. Aun en la misma moto, 36 y 38 son muy differentes. ¿Estás en los EEUU? JD Jetting te puede ayudar mucho.
Disculpa mi español ☹️
@@jotacalvo OK gracias por la recomendación estoy ejecutando esa misma necj y estoy esperando que llegue el Jd kit, saludos desde Puerto Rico
Correction: I use The NECJ.
Smooth dose not equal a leaner needle , it’s the taper of the needle that makes the difference
A leaner needle does indeed produce a smoother acceleration over the stock needle, when the stock needle is so rich that the bike stumbles over itself.
And you are correct, it’s the taper of the needle. The taper section of the Suzuki needle is where it is truly leaner. My description is simply an overall explanation of the advantages of the Suzuki needles over stock for slow woods riding, for those who are wondering if it’s for their riding style. I wasn’t attempting to dissect the engineering and design behind needles
Do you have a ktm 300?
Grant Coffas no, I have a 200. But they work equally well on the 250/300's.
@@jotacalvo ill give it a try then. Thanks!
Good video 👍 I got a splutter 1/2 throttle can’t get rid of it , I’m guessing the needle is rich from stock , husky tx 125 tmx 38 Mikuni carb , any ideas on what needle I could try ?
I don’t know about Mikunis. Imo the first thing I would do is call JD and get one of their kits. I believe they have a needle setup for those carbs.
What about running a Suzuki needle in my YZ250?