Jeep Wrangler (TJ) AC Fix $35
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- A simple fix for a Jeep Wrangler (TJ 2004) A/C compressor Bearing:
Part: www.ebay.com/it... ($35)
OEM Part: Nachi 30BGS10DST
Ordered the part on a Friday night (10pm) and had it Monday (3pm) it was an exact fit and solved the problem.
The whole project (less the wait for the part) was roughly an hour mostly due to not having the proper tools.
recommended tools:
Channel Locks (pipe wrench) that can open to 3 inches
10mm (6 sided if possible) shallow socket
Spring Clip removal tool with a 90 degree turn from handles and small pins
and a good bench vise would be very helpful
Solvent to clean the parts
I replaced the OEM serpentine belt with a shorter one to "delete" the AC after I could hear the bearings starting to become EXTREMELY noisy. (you can usually tell that it is the AC bearing by the "on and off" variability of the noise when the AC clutch engages and disengages. I left it like this for about a year after being quoted $800+ to replace the compressor. I knew the AC was still cold and working just the bearing was going bad so I tried to find the part locally which no one had and only one place was willing to sell the clutch and pulley as a single unit for over $100, so I decided I would take it on myself and just replace the bearing which completely fixed the problem and cost me $35.
TJ Amaazon Links:
Hood Fans: amzn.to/3a7vCg5
Thermostatic Relay: amzn.to/2xeUlAk (out of stock/ search for similar or "12v thermostatic relay")
Louvered Hood: amzn.to/3bcDVHr
Thermostat: amzn.to/2xYIPK5
Camera Monitor: amzn.to/3dkU8MS
Cameras: amzn.to/2Qy6pUp
Locking Hood Latches: amzn.to/2Ua0Mhr
Fender Flares Front: amzn.to/3dfc7UJ
Fender Flarers Rear: amzn.to/33xXMOM
USB AUX: amzn.to/2JfnNJz
Ive been chasing this noise for about 2 years now and you have just shown me both the issue and the fix. Thankyou!!!
Glad it helped! Pretty easy fix overall too
If your clutch is stuck on the splined shaft don’t pry it off, there’s an easier way!
The thread on the inside of the shaft is M6, but the thread on the clutch is M8 - get an M8 bolt that’s at least an inch long and screw it in to the clutch (where you just removed the M6 bolt), as you tighten the thicker bolt it will push the clutch off the splined shaft.
(Be careful though, this method will push the spacer washers out from the clutch - just make sure to collect them and put them back in before reassembly)
Thank you so much!!
an easy way to press the bearing back into the pulley is to put it in between a jack and your vehicle as a makeshift press.
Brilliant!!! I love that idea, I'm all about diy solutions
never press or bang inner ring on bearings only outer rings if you do that you will push ring out and bearings will fall. use the right tool used a set of press rings. I forget what you call it I have one can't remember.
Also, I used a huge pair of channel locks instead of the C-clamp, and my bolt was not tight at all, maybe 10 pounds if that.
Sorry I noted in inch pounds as an estimate (30-40 inch pounds is roughly 3 foot pounds) I should have used foot pounds to describe it in the video. Either way it's not too tight so don't over tighten it back on :P
The 3" c-clamp keeps sliding off the lip as I try to tighten it. How did you keep the c-clamp from slipping off the lip?
By the way, what size channel-locks did you use? The c-clamp isn't working for me bc it keeps sliding off the lip.
Well the eBay link is broken, do you have the bearing number? I'd like to have that bearing on hand as I'm in the same boat as you with the Jeep ac system being rather robust. Speaking of boat, you must be a sailor lol as that's a total sailor repair.
OEM Part: Nachi 30BGS10DST not a sailor but my grandfather was!
Dude...you ROCK!! Thanks so much for posting this, I have same issue and was about to spend $300 on new compressor. Only thing I would say is I found the bearing cheaper on Amazon. Thanks again!!
Chuck Ward that's awesome!! Post the link in the comments to the Amazon one if you would- I had no good reference so I could only find the eBay one. glad it helped.
Thank you for this video. I have tried the link to the ebay for the bearing and have had no success. I typed the part number into Google and eBay. There are a lot of bearings by size but not that part number. Can you please advise on the size of the bearing or a link to that. It is my only vehicle so I can't be down very long. I have the 2006 jeep wrangler tj rubicon unlimited 4.0 liter. please advise if you can. Thank you so much for the video
I no longer have that Jeep, but having the shorter serpentine belt will at least bypass the ac compressor until you get the part in so you won't be down your whole jeep, just the AC. I'll google search the bearing and see if I can find another link
@@ianmburke That is what I will be doing. Thanks again
Excellent video man!! Thanks for sharing
Did this make a small squeak sound with the AC off but not when it’s on?
Would anyone happen to know the size and type of bolt that goes in the center of the clutch assembly? I lost mine and can't find any information online.
Completely blew over the hardest part. Removing the c-clip? You said with screwdriver. Cant see to do any of this. I have the same year jeep and don't seem to have the same clearance even after removing the coolant reservoir. It seems like ill have to remove either the compressor or the radiator to be able to see to get the clip removal tool on those tiny holes. Stabbed blindly for about 30 mins just now before deciding to put back together.
It isn't "easy" but all I had to do was remove the overflow and use a really tiny flathead screw driver or obviously the clip removal tool would help a LOT. Also this is a 2004. The 1997-2002 are a different TJ than the 2003-2006
What the parts number for the bearings
@@vincenguyen9548 NACHI 30BGS10DST
How is the 2003 wrangler is both categories?
Manufacturing years often overlap? Like 2018 there is a JK and a JL
there isn’t much detail on how you actually removed these parts. Did you remove the bolt completely and then the 1st piece come right off or what? Because I took the 10mm bolt off and I can’t get the 1st piece off at all. Am I missing something? Please help
10mm bolt all the way out and remove the retaining clip the c shaped clip then it can come off - but it may be tight so be gentle or you might bust the internal seal
The C clip is behind the clutch cover. How did you remove the cover (the very 1st plate shown in the video. Once you remove the 10mm bolt should it just come right off, does it screw off, or do you have to pry it off?
I think just a gentle pry and rotate then pry and repeat I believe I don't have it in front of me - but obviously remove the bolt first
If your clutch is stuck on the splined shaft don’t pry it off, there’s an easier way!
The thread on the inside of the shaft is M6, but the thread on the clutch is M8 - get an M8 bolt that’s at least an inch long and screw it in to the clutch (where you just removed the M6 bolt), as you tighten the thicker bolt it will push the clutch off the splined shaft.
That clutch assy should have been replaced.
Still working without incident for months on end now.... No need to buy more than what is broken.
hi what was the part number or size of the smaller belt
+James Robinson I would recommend using a local auto parts store and having them look it up and make sure they are good about returns- the first belt I got was too long but I was able to exchange it for the correct one. I believe this is the one if you're looking online "Crown Automotive 53013209AC Serpentine Belt"
I just bought one from autozone. It was Duralast Serpentine Belt 750K6. fits perfect for bypass of the AC
What was the problem that made you bypass the compressor in the first place?
I live by the ocean and I get a LOT of salt water in the engine compartment and I think the bearing went bad and was extremely noisy