Van/RV Electrical System Money-Saving Hacks!
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- No-name components in your van/RV electrical system may cut costs, but sacrifices quality, warranty, and service. In this video, discover smarter cost-saving strategies without compromising on quality of components.
➤ Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤ Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/?afmc=...
If you want to check out some of the kits/products/packages & such we talked about in this video, we made a blog post with links to all of that stuff (too many links for us to put here in the description, sorry.): explorist.life/diy-camper-ele...
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
FULL ELECTRICAL INSTALLS:
➤ 30A Travel Trailer - Full Electrical Upgrade: • RV Electrical System S...
➤ Truck Camper - Full Electrical Upgrade: • How To Upgrade Your Tr...
➤ Ford Transit Camper Van Electrical Install: • DIY CAMPER VAN ELECTRI...
➤ DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
OTHER HELPFUL RESOURCES:
➤ Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
➤ DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤ How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤ Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤ How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
➤ How to Strip Wire: • How to Strip Wire from...
➤ How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
➤ How to Make MC4 Connectors: • How To Make MC4 Connec...
➤ How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤ How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤ How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir...
00:00 Introduction
00:36 Be Realistic in Your Power Audit
01:10 Use Fewer Batteries
02:10 Use Bigger Solar Panels
02:49 Pre-plan Your Solar Array
03:42 Consider a Higher Voltage System
04:52 Don't Melt Stuff.
05:26 12V vs 24V Cost Breakdown
07:00 What about 48V systems?
07:40 Buy Pre-Designed Kits!
08:31 Reviewing Tips - Авто та транспорт
There's also great, no, GREAT value in having everything put together in a kit for you. No guesswork. Just follow their videos, and voila, it's done!
Thank you so much. We had the learning experience that one should not settle. We had our dealer install 360Ah battery it’s a great battery. But the GoPower 3000 watt inverter charger was not good. LOL. It died on a trip. Day 1 of a 21 day trip.
We now have a Victron system with all new wires. Done by a local Off Grid specialist south of Ft.Worth TX.
It was a 10k experience and we are still a bit PTSD when a light flickers. Don’t settle and buy brands that have support available.
Cheers. 🍻 😊
Just a big thank you. I haven’t invested yet in a “real” electrical system. Primarily because I want to make sure I can do it and not kill myself. So, for now, I study and use an Anker 767 to power my needs. But I’m planning - oh yes - planning for a real substantial power supply. Your videos are helping me get the knowledge and I’m very appreciative of your expertise and time. I’ve already used many of your van build videos to inform (if not downright copy) my build. Rest assured, when it comes time to purchase, I will be buying your kits! (It is, after all, the very least I can do for all the free education!) thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
*If you want to check out some of the kits/products/packages & such we talked about in this video, we made a blog post with links to all of that stuff (too many links for us to put here, sorry.):* explorist.life/diy-camper-electrical-system-money-saving-tips/
*IMPORTANT NOTE:* All prices were accurate as of 10/10/23. If you are watching this any time after this date; the prices will likely be different and there's no way for us to go back and retroactively edit the video nor control inflation and or the price of our cost of goods sold; so you'll just have to use your imagination and understand that the prices will likely scale proportionally, so the exact numbers may be different, but the percentages will stay close.
*Lastly...* You know we only make tutorials of systems with high quality electrical components, and very time we put out a video, we get a handful of people who say things like:
"Well, I could just put my harbor freight generator next to the RV and get power like that for much cheaper!"
Yes. Yes you could. And you could also go to a muscle car show and brag about how many miles per gallon your prius gets too.
Now, there are TONS of videos on UA-cam about building the cheapest RV/Van electrical systems possible with cut-rate components, undersized wires, and no-name fuses; but we were talking around the shop one day about what STRATEGIC things could somebody do during the electrical design process to save money while still using high quality parts and components and this week's video is our conclusion of this discussion; not a video over how to build these systems as cheaply as possible.
Love the detail you put in videos like this.
Thanks Jason! I appreciate that.
Another great explainer video. I'm just starting my electric build and will definitely be getting some wiring kits. Already found a phenomenal price on BBGC3 batteries. And btw, a great hoodie! They available?
Very timely. My wife and I just bought our first Class A motorhome and I’ll be outfitting it with Solar and replacing the lead acid batteries over winter. Let me know if you’re still looking for a class A for your series! 😊
Awesome! Glad it was helpful! Our series of full installs is all wrapped up, so we aren't looking for any more. Between the 30A Class C and the 50A 5th wheel you should have what you need to tackle your class A Motorhome depending on what shore power it comes with. Here's the full series: ua-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TUU8FUc6LE38TBkdSLjdw_5.html
Explorist Life is the very best... if you follow their lead you will build yourself a dependable, safe system that functions properly and that you understand and can enjoy. I found their advice unmatched when I was learning and building out my camper. Other tutorials are good, but these folks set the bar.
wow, right on time. Definitely need some 48 V kits. Will be checking out the website today! 🤗
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
@@Lana_Warwick do more research? Not a good way to enter a conversation. Or to get anyone to listen for that matter. But since we’re here…
I don’t mind helping Nate out just as long as it is fair market value. I don’t have to think about doing the calculations because the kits are already sorted out. him and Steph have integrity because they’re very transparent. Sooo, I’m buying convenience and helping good people out. I actually just want the wiring. Here’s my set up:
I already have two Multiplus II Victron inverters running in parallel to provide 240 V AC connecting to a 48 V LiFE PO4 battery bank (4) SOK server rack = 20k + watts of storage. Victron DC to DC converter and 1230 W of residential solar on the roof along side Starlink, which conveniently operates at 48 V (no buck converter).
If I can get the wiring from Nate, that’s a win-win: I have what I want to spec and I bought from a person that I approve of. Make sense?
I'm in the planning of my build.
Working on the electrical....I want to use your power audit form. I am planning on going 24V. If i do thst do i just change the formulas that divide by 12 to 24? Or, which ones would i change and not change?
I will be using a 24 to 12 converter though
Good video!
Hey, @robbehr8806! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Your Video's are a big help for everyone
Hey @RPM-sr2gn, Thanks so much! Cheers!
👍@@EXPLORISTlife
Hi Nate, I’m in Australia just purchased our Jayco camper trailer did not get battery but it has shore power for 12volt system with ctec charger 12v ditrubution of power. Thinking of lithium batter
. Would I be able to purchase your circuit digrahan for 12v system.
Can you also go over how to power 12volt appliances and accessories when using a 24 volt system. thanks
Sure! You'd just use a 24V to 12V converter between the lynx distributor (battery bank) and the 12V DC Fuse Block like we showed in this camper van electrical video: ua-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/v-deo.html
And this one for an RV: ua-cam.com/video/PavRWuOax1M/v-deo.html
Another reason I stuck with 12v was the ac unit I wanted was $500 more for the 24v version. So it was like save money on wire size and then pay more for the ac unit. I decided to just keep it simple.
You lose efficiency with 12v. 48v is more efficient and the amp draw is significantly less under load
@jonaselton4229 It's not necessarily 'more efficient', no. It's just 'appears' to be using less power because the amps are smaller, but the watts will be similar regardless of if the air conditioner is 12, 24, or 48V. Review the following video to learn more about how this works: ua-cam.com/video/GGGBtl_SRIs/v-deo.html
@nickmcentee8992 for sure! Also a good consideration.
Did I just miss it, but it seems like no mention of weight or space consideration in the comparison. Our is it so obvious that it goes without being said? Thanks for information.
@@WH0oo... Space isn't going to be any different between 12V vs 24V.
Weight will be different, but it will be so minimal it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. Less than the difference of 'having groceries' vs 'not having groceries' in the van; and I've never heard of somebody micro-analyzing the weight of groceries. 😂😂😂😂🤷♂🤷♂
Plus, talking about size and weight considerations would be off topic for a video discussing the money saving aspect of various system configurations.
Thank You.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Do you feel there is an advantage in the redundancy of having 6 batteries (vs two) or 7 panels ( vs four) if/when a component fails? I'm unfamiliar with the specific warranties to put a time value on that.
Not particularly, no. If one battery or panel goes bad; it will likely negatively effect the whole bank/array.
Thanks!
Hey, @carldraus! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Can the "Battery Switch On/Off 275 Amp" (SKU: VBS7010010) be used on a 48 volt system?
Victron does not have a battery switch rated for 48V systems, unfortunately.
Do you know if run and single 48v 435 watt solar panel on my van with a proper 48v CC?
Hey, @richw9091! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: ua-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/v-deo.html&list=PLmvhcyi4n0TV9pi83rFTv3ZuMT_S1xIZt
Alternatively, I have some of my most common solar array setups pre-built here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Great video and very informative. But one thing you don't really go into detail about is the impact of having a 24V system vs a 12V in terms of ability to power all the various things inside the van. Most of the things I have in my van are powered by 12VDC (lights, USB chargers, fans, fridge etc). I do have an inverter to power the few things that are 115VAC powered (which are only used occasionally). And I know 24VDC inverters are available, but is there a cheap and efficient way of extracting 12VDC out of a 24VDC system without having to add yet another electronic box (switching power supply etc) to get access to 12VDC again? Or do people who get 24VDC systems simply buy 24VDC appliances and lights etc? Confused about this part. Thanks again for the video in the meantime.
All of our kits/systems/etc include 24V to 12V converters for all of the various 12V loads.
Thanks for sharing. I am looking for 48v with 1600watts of solar (4x400w) solution based on the Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 120V, 3000VA 48-Volt. Can you design something?
There's really no reason to do a 48V system with only 3kva of inverting capacity and 1600w of solar. Go with a 24V setup for that. We already have that ready to go in our store.
@@EXPLORISTlife Except I already have a EG4-LifePower4 Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH | Server Rack Battery | UL1973.
Having a good plan in place before purchasing parts is always a good idea to avoid problems like these.
Hehehe Yes, I have redid my solar 3 times. LOL
I'd argue that even a 24V system will cost more up front than a 12V system because you're still going to have 12V components in your rig (be it lights, refrigerator, or controllers for the HVAC system) and your "savings" will end up going into a 24V to 12V step down and if you're going to use your vehicle charging system to help top off your system while driving a 12V to 24V DC to DC charger.
That said, if you're doing it full time, the 24V system is still your better bet because there will be less over all stress on the system as you use it and it'll last longer requiring longer spans between and less replacements as you go.
Hey there! Our 12v vs 24v cost comparison included the 24v to 12v converter and the appropriate 12v to 24v charger. Pricing was based on actual parts costing from the 'ready to go' kits we sell, so we know they are complete. 🙂👍
seems like most vanlife builds should stick w 12v unless theyre running a rooftop AC unit
Not true. A 24v system when using 24v batteries can double your storage capacity and with space tight already, less batteries = less space
@@JimBob-wn6yo That's sounds a bit misleading/inaccurate. A 24V 100Ah battery will be about twice as big and twice as heavy as a 12V 100Ah battery as there is 2400W of cells in one and only 1200W in the other.
A more fair comparison for size/weight is a 50Ah 24V battery vs a 100Ah 12V battery as those two are actually the same capacity.
Review the following video for more info: ua-cam.com/video/GGGBtl_SRIs/v-deo.html
@jogbird Most are 12V; a lot are 24V. Here are our thoughts about choosing one vs the other: ua-cam.com/video/sEW-ZaOOlq0/v-deo.html
you failed to say anything about the cheap parts out there. like copper coated alu wire. or wires with improper labeling, aka how the wire is made, strands, thickness, how some company's add much thicker coating to make there wire look bigger.
There are 48v battery isolators, just not the blue sea systems option everyone loves
Please don't think that I haven't spent HOURS looking for quality battery switches rated for 60V. 🤣🙄
There are random no-name amazon switches that claim a 60V rating, but it's hard to believe/trust.
@@EXPLORISTlife Check out the Victron Smart Battery Protect (BPR11004800) that is rated 24V to 64V
@@EXPLORISTlife or use the Lynx BMS as a remote controllable main system switch
The Lynx BMS is nearly $1,000...
@EXPLORISTlife it's still 48v compatible isolator and if you're running 48v battery banks or victron smart batteries it's worth the cost
10 grand?! My 400ah battery bank, 1200w and 3600w grid tie inverter cost me less than 3k, along with wiring and breakers and everything else, Jesus.
And you could have saved even more money by using the strategies shown in this video coupled with the no-name cheap components it sounds like you used. Sounds like you honed in on one specific part of this video and missed the overall point. Perhaps watch it again with a bigger focus on the system design strategies instead of trying to compare your system to a system with high quality components.
I saved massively, especially considering 3k was Australian dollars and I used cheap but reputable panels and an mpp3624 the 2 large 12v batteries were extremely cheap but well known to be excellent quality, so I did just fine, I’m just confused how the wiring kit was around 2-3k when wire, T class fuses, a circuit breaker and lugs shouldn’t cost that much, unless it wasn’t designed for a 10 metre run from the battery to inverter…?
“
EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers
Yeah, there are definitely a lot of no name super cheap components out there that will significant decrease costs at the exchange of quality, warranty, and customer support Sounds like you totally missed the point of the video. Please review the first 10 seconds of the video.”
I can’t see this comment on here anymore but to answer it anyway.
The panels I bought locally come with a 20 year 20% guarantee, the batteries come with a 5 year guarantee and the inverter is an “mpp solar”, which I found to be good enough if the reviews are to be believed.
Either way all the I bought what I could locally (everything except the inverter) so I won’t have a problem getting my warranty dealt with, I watched the whole video, just the price for wiring seems extremely high.
Enough wiring, fuses, lugs, heat shrink, ferrules, junction boxes, terminal blocks, busbars, and mounting screws do indeed cost that much as of October 2023 to wire 6 batteries, 1200w of solar, DC DC Charging via vehicle alternator, system monitoring, and an inverter/charger to the factory electrical system of an RV does indeed cost quite a bit and is often underbudgeted or unaccounted for in people's costing.
Tesla coils, sounds like someone went to burning man
Battle Born is great but the price. If you want to save real money that's the first thing to change.
The main point here was saving money through system design while using the high quality parts you want. There are hundreds of other 'build it as cheaply as possible with no name components' videos out there, but this is not one of them. I hope I made that clear in the first sentence of this video.
Listen, you always are using Victron for your test. Please test some other company like Sun Gold,
Growwat, or mpp. Or let's see how cheap you can put together a 1000 watt system. With 600ah
I'm not interested in the 'see how cheap we can build things' systems. I'd rather teach yall how to build systems that will outlive your camper. I'm more of the 'do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again' train of thought. The strategies talked about in this video will work regardless of whatever brand of components you'd rather use.
And for a all in one 3000w output system and 30 minutes setup you paid $2000
Read the last point in the pinned comment.