Thank you thank you for creating this video. I have been unsuccessful in printing my lightboxes. Ive gotten lazy and just selecting default profiles. Because of your video i am calibrating filament now. You are very detailed in explaining the settings. I will will be watching this many times. Thank you
@@triggerre fighting whispies is part of what makes light boxes such a challenge. Printing light to dark, running filament calibrations, and perhaps going low and slow (drop temp and speed) for black goes a long way to helping. Disabling "reduce infill retraction" is a seeing I've started using that is not in my published profiles yet, that seems to help a bit, too.
OMG! This was AMAZING!!!! 🤯 This helped to explain a lot as to why some of my prints have failed or have looked like crap . My lightboxes are going to go from OK to PERFECT. With this new knowledge, my other prints will also come out better! 😃 Thank you!!!!!
@patrickwilliamson5737 there are several different schools of thought when it comes to how to make these - this is just the how and why of my take on it. Thank you for the kind words, I hope you see improved results!
@@artemgoncharenko646 when the design allows it, sure. Basically if you have any translucent parts to cut you're going to have an ugly seam. Overlapping material, glue, etc - either light leaks or dark lines. If the parts of the design have a lot of opaque space you can scale the design so the largest solid part is at your build volume, then assemble it without worrying about the seams being visible. I've tried a few methods and seen many other folks try - you just won't get an aesthetically clean look if you have to assemble translucent elements from multiple pieces. As an example, I made one that was just short of 16" wide from multiple pieces. It only worked because the source material had lots of void space in it, so my translucent elements are still single pieces. You can see details on it here - makerworld.com/en/models/481183
Good morning. I believe I am using the same settings you are except for my filament which I have tuned. I'm not quite sure what is causing this issue on my bottom surface pattern. Any ideas?
@@michaelb7133 I saw your A1 video - at an outside guess it could be a partial clog or the temp is too low perhaps. You are letting it do the bed leveling procedure when you start a job, yes? When in doubt, double-check you have the correct material profile to match what you have loaded (eg; you have a PLA spool loaded and a PLA material profile in the slicer) and try the default settings. If that works you can change one setting at a time until it fails to identify the problem. If defaults fail then you probably need to look at a mechanical issue (like a partial clog or extruder failure). The Bambu wiki has excellent troubleshooting guides!
Thank you thank you for creating this video. I have been unsuccessful in printing my lightboxes. Ive gotten lazy and just selecting default profiles. Because of your video i am calibrating filament now. You are very detailed in explaining the settings. I will will be watching this many times. Thank you
@@mmikegtp thank you for the kind words - I wish you luck!
Greatest 3d print guide on whole youtube.
@@cypis007 mighty kind of you! What could I improve on the next one?
Every time I print a lighbox face there's always some black debris falling on the white parts contaminating it and only visible when lighted
@@triggerre fighting whispies is part of what makes light boxes such a challenge. Printing light to dark, running filament calibrations, and perhaps going low and slow (drop temp and speed) for black goes a long way to helping. Disabling "reduce infill retraction" is a seeing I've started using that is not in my published profiles yet, that seems to help a bit, too.
Thanks for sharing. 🙂
OMG! This was AMAZING!!!! 🤯 This helped to explain a lot as to why some of my prints have failed or have looked like crap . My lightboxes are going to go from OK to PERFECT. With this new knowledge, my other prints will also come out better! 😃 Thank you!!!!!
@patrickwilliamson5737 there are several different schools of thought when it comes to how to make these - this is just the how and why of my take on it. Thank you for the kind words, I hope you see improved results!
@@RevHazlett Yep, many ideas out there. Pete does a great job as well and I'v learned a lot from him as well; but I like your method the best.
Have you tried to print big light boxes, which is bigger then print bed? What specifics about designing and printing these things do you know?
@@artemgoncharenko646 when the design allows it, sure. Basically if you have any translucent parts to cut you're going to have an ugly seam. Overlapping material, glue, etc - either light leaks or dark lines.
If the parts of the design have a lot of opaque space you can scale the design so the largest solid part is at your build volume, then assemble it without worrying about the seams being visible.
I've tried a few methods and seen many other folks try - you just won't get an aesthetically clean look if you have to assemble translucent elements from multiple pieces.
As an example, I made one that was just short of 16" wide from multiple pieces. It only worked because the source material had lots of void space in it, so my translucent elements are still single pieces. You can see details on it here - makerworld.com/en/models/481183
Soooo much good info!!!!
Good morning. I believe I am using the same settings you are except for my filament which I have tuned. I'm not quite sure what is causing this issue on my bottom surface pattern. Any ideas?
I've added a couple of short videos but for some reason it is not attaching to my question
ua-cam.com/users/shortsBusgdluZImA?si=QnveGWHbkyo_y91m
@@michaelb7133 I saw your A1 video - at an outside guess it could be a partial clog or the temp is too low perhaps. You are letting it do the bed leveling procedure when you start a job, yes?
When in doubt, double-check you have the correct material profile to match what you have loaded (eg; you have a PLA spool loaded and a PLA material profile in the slicer) and try the default settings. If that works you can change one setting at a time until it fails to identify the problem. If defaults fail then you probably need to look at a mechanical issue (like a partial clog or extruder failure).
The Bambu wiki has excellent troubleshooting guides!
I have the A1 issue rectified. I posted a new one with a face plate that I printed on an X1 @@RevHazlett
It's in the shorts section