Major Roof Leak Repair!! DIY Roofing In Heavy Rain A Good Idea?!
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Another day another roof leak in the 1960s house of horrors dreams! Today I’ll mostly be making it up as I go along. The roof to my ground floor shower / utility room has been leaking in recent heavy rain, time to investigate and attempt to stop the leak.
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The plastic eaves protecters should be under the membrane to stop it pooling at the facia board and rotting the membrane.
And yes a new section of membrane will do the job
I did wonder if it would trap water underneath, that also means it's been installed incorrectly along the entire roof 😮💨
Appreciate the knowledge, I'll get up there and correct it, thank you 👍
There's lots of good videos on UA-cam on how to rectify pooling and installing eves protection.
Have a look.
Happy to help, good luck.
Just watched a good one from The Restoration Couple, makes perfect sense! 👍
I have the same job to do this week and this vid pops up. Its like YT knew what's going on in my life. 🤔
Make sure you put the eaves protector underneath the membrane unlike me 😉
Cheek off, lead flashing replaced, cheek back on then strip out entire bottom course of tiles, replace defective felt and re-fit the eaves support trays underneath the felt. Proper job.
I did check the eaves support after someone else's comment the same thing and the whole house has the eaves support on top of the membrane 😮💨
Next spring/summer I'm going to take off all the lower tiles and refit the eaves support properly.
Agreed on the cheek, the flashing that's there is in poor condition
@@froywhernside Good man! That is basically the secondary line of defence so to speak but the real issue is the lead. If you lift it up, I bet you'll see splitting. The black paint you described is most likely bitumen sealant which is a temporary fix but will make it harder for you to see the split(s).
Ah, I did wonder why someone would paint flashing didn't make any sense to me 👍
@@froywhernside Good luck with it! Flashings should not be longer than 1.5 metres and a minimum of code 4 lead. Probably not the case with the existing and the reason that it has failed. Thermal movement (hot and cold weather, expansion and contraction) will cause excess lengths of lead to split, more so if the lead is thin such as code 3. 👍
A things look to be an issue, the downpipe sitting on the tiles, all debris gets clogged up behind and causes a dam, thus allowing water to back up and under the tile, down the felt into the roof where theres rotted felt membrane, the bits of plastic (eaves support trays) are installed wrong, it's to support the felt going into the gutter , there looks to be a gap behind the dormer gutter where water looks like it could just run down the cheek.
All great points, the flat roof will be recovered this year, the gutter that literally does nothing other than cause problems will be coming off for good, I think someone installed this to try and divert water away from a problem rather than fix it properly.
Cheek of the dormer will also be coming off this summer, new flashing, probably new membrane and reassemble.
You're not the first person to point out the eaves tray support and it's been done the wrong way around the entire house! Another job for this summer...
You could have trimmed the ragged ends of the old membrane as they serve no purpose and eave protectors should be under the membrane as was said already.
Well done for having a go at fixing a roof anyway, just they need ladders etc makes them a pain.
I’ve a phobia of heights so it’s tough tackling my roof but I did it.
Would love to get a whole new roof one day... I'll keep dreaming for now
Your leak is coming from cheek on dormer, you will need to remove timber cladding and replace lead flashing, where flashing runs down to front corner you need to make sure front lead apron returns around corner, ideally welded and side flashing over top, you can then replace timber cladding.
It seems to have stopped leaking after adding the new piece of membrane. Great advice, I do need to take off the plastic cladding and have a look underneath... Especially as it's nearly 60 years old! Thanks
Clive is right it will either be the saddle from flat roof onto tiles on the cheek or a tile or the lead flashing failing up along the cheek, it’s a common weak spot. Replacing felt membrane will just hide the leak a bit longer till it finds its way in another way or rots the felt out. The flat roof will fall back towards the house so you have a lot of water running down each side of dormer.
Also the felt support trays are designed to support the felt along eaves, so the felt needs to be on top of plastic tray so water would run out into gutter. Good luck
100% take the cheaks off and replace that lead flashing. Give it more side lap too for extra protection. The new felt would stop the water coming through to your plasterboard but that dosnt mean it’s not coming through the roof. Also the Eve trays need the felt going over the top. Plus the tiles should have about 4 inche headlap.
Definitely going to have another go early next year. The eaves protector is on top of the membrane all the way round the house so that's another job to do 👍
@@froywhernside if it’s not leaking in other sections might be best to leave it as it might be more of a hassle. But where the roof is leaking the lead looks knackered. You might need 390 code 4 lead or 450 lead. Have 7inch upstand so put that behind the cladding and the rest of the roof. Also if the tiles don’t have 4 inches headlap it could be leaking in more areas. I’d say if it’s Less than 3 then the roofer have done a shite job.
Felt meant to overlap your eave trays! Orherwise they serve no purpose
Yeah found the whole house is like it, summer job 👍
@@froywhernside their purpose is to protect the felt instead of it hanging in the gutter. But yes they have to be overlapped by felt for water run off. Also I’d re flash that dorma cheek. I’d do a soaker system on every tile. The n way they’ve done it isn’t the best. I’d sort those eave trays though if u get a broken tile water will run straight in!!
Let me know how you would have repaired the leak
You could took more tiles of and do it properly
Helpful advice 👌
Leave the roofing to the roofers, stop playing around you havnt got a clue, do some extra hours in the office and pay us professionals to do the work . Leave it till summer ? Youve stripped roof put it back on while your doing it 😅
Nah, I'd rather be the sh*t roofer than pay a "pro" for the same result 😉🤣
Seriously, if you think this is bad, check out one of my latest roofing videos, you're in for a treat 😁
@@froywhernside love the content , keep it up mate 👍 nice to see you growing
Shouldn't those roof tiles have staggered joints across the rows? All the joints lined up under and over might be causing water ingress with high sideways wind.
You might be right, that could be causing an issue. Obviously best practice changes over time but all the houses are the same here, built in 1965, all the joints are in line. The tiles are interlocking with about a 30mm overlap that has a bit of ridge in the overlap part so it probably does an ok job of channeling the water away. The roof pitch is really steep and the interlocking part is also at the top of the profile so the water should flow into the low points of the tiles but yeah we've had heavy rain recently so that'll probably test the limits of any tile.
Hoping I don't have to retile the entire roof 😩 🤞
It's only slates that have staggered joints.
Tiles have a raised and rolled side so interlock.
Hence they have to be inline with the rest.
No, staggered joints not necessary as there are interlocking joints.
No
@@paulporch3368marley modern tiles have staggered joints as well