Your doing a great job riff .I was lucky I had no aircon to worry about .I used a camera and took pictures every step . Thanks for all your videos mate .Trev UK
Hey thanks for the time to show how to do this. It looks exactly like the problem I have. I'm trying to psyche myself up to perform this task after seeing you do it. Thanks for the pointers I'll let you know how it goes.
Dont forget the lifting eye at the rear of the engine ,,right side .There is an o ring seal inside the bracket hiolding the lifting eye and the hose for heater box. . .If the o ring leaks then coolant will drop from the rear of the engine on to bell housing ,,then on to the floor .Grand job RIFFRAFFJAZZ love these videos
Thanks for taking the time to record your work. I'm in the middle of replacing the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses and tensioner. It's my backup car (1988 300sel w126) so I'm taking my time. I'm still trying to remove the fan clutch. I need help LOL
your right. 75 percent of the time it wasnt done right so its got to be done over again. this water pump job is a real pain. most pro mechanics dont even want to do this job
man I encourage that .I am just like you. I cut my own hair I fixed my own cars. I run my car off 100% vegetable oil. I cook my own meals anything to save an extra buck..... I think I'll save a lot of money. we must consider ourselves intelligent enough to understand mechanics. I own an 87 300D turbo diesel and I own a 92 2.5 turbo diesel. the 92 seems to be overheating so I figure thermostat or water pump. ...
Good job! I still have not built up the courage and also have not found the time to replace mine but I know after replacing it I will bond that much more with my W124
Sometimes its just easier to disconnect everything and get it out the way so you got plenty of room double check everything when putting back and you will be fine i got a waterpump from euro car parts about 87 pound good luck
Hi Riffraffjazz, Well I got the pump off, 4 hours, I did things slightly differently to you, as to be expected, surprising how many things I unbolted just to get at those 3 bolts, The dip stick I simply pulled out of the sump and the bracket nearest to the bottom bracket that secures the air con pipe I removed, how much easier that made. So now I have to wait for the new pump to arrive and hopefully I wont have forgotten the order in which to refit.
FYI, on my M104.980 (1990 300CE), I had to remove the four bolts holding the AC Compressor, and the two allen bolts holding the another bracket, in order to drop it enough for that AC hose to get out of the way. Then, you can get to that top right bolt, but BARELY! You can sort of peek at the head of the bolt from the front. You'll need a 13mm, plus a swivel or u-joint and an extension. You may have to grind down the 13mm socket some (shave it so it's thinner) in order to get enough meat on the bolt head. Luckily, my bolt wasn't on there very tight as I couldn't get the socket fully on the bolt head (was so afraid of rounding the head bolt!). Good luck! Some said you have to remove the plenum. I absolutely did not want to do that.
Hi, Joe It’s good to see somebody likes my dry sense of humour. All you need to fix a car is the ability to be able to read a book and drive a 3’ inch nail into a piece of 3’x 2’ timber. The reason I fix my own cars is that mechanics charge like wounded bulls and 9 out of 10 repair jobs I have had them do, the car comes back worse that I gave it to them. I have work to do on our cars and am just waiting to get some money to buy the parts, so more to come.
Rif i am doing this job again after 4 years pump failed again .My question is did you fir a used pump in your video or did you fit mew seals in the old one ? pump looks old
Thanks for the effort...I "like" the German engineering as I need to go through the whole process for just changing the short piece of hose between a water pump and engine body. I don't see any other way to swap the hose as there is only few millimeters room between and cannot push the hose through it...any ideas? Thanks!
Sir do you think its possible to do the job without removing the radiator (ie simply removing just the shroud)? Surprisingly the MB service manual just mentions the removal of only the shroud.
Hi, David, Unfortunately you have to remove the radiator to remove the shroud, it fits around the engine cooling fan, you would also not have enough room to get at the water pump. Regards, Paul.
Thank you Paul! Apparently MB made a split-shroud version that it appears neither of us have. With the split shroud, no need to take off. Thanks again!
Nice work man! I have a problem with my engine m103. My car starts to overheat only at low speed and when it is at idling speed. There are no leakages. What can it be?? Thank you!
Thanks for your reply Paul! I checked thermostat and its ok, my mechanics says that maybe the fan clutch is bad, But I dont believe him. What test can I make to the fan clutch? Thanks in advance!
Hi, again Check the fan if it spins freely, it should have resistance in it and not freewheel, Check it when the engine is warmed up and see if its grabbing, if it is just loping and spins freely the clutch is worn out. Cheers,
Thanks for the video. For all of the tool nuts in this world - Snap-On use to make a special extension with 13mm socket to get to the hard-to-reach WP bolts. The tool was FLXM13. It has been replaced by PFLXM13B. store.snapon.com/Extension-Sockets-Swivel-Ball-mm-industrial-Socket-Metric-Power-Swivel-Ball-Extension-13-mm-12-Point-P813520.aspx Some pro mechanics and diyers claim this cuts removal/install time down significantly. And last but not least - here is the official Mercedes doc for water pump replacement: www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Engine/103/20-210.pdf
The M103 2.6L and the M103 3.0L are virtually identical, if I'm not mistaken, it's just a matter of difference in bore. But as far as the external working components and accessories, they're the same engine.
Your doing a great job riff .I was lucky I had no aircon to worry about .I used a camera and took pictures every step . Thanks for all your videos mate .Trev UK
Hey thanks for the time to show how to do this. It looks exactly like the problem I have. I'm trying to psyche myself up to perform this task after seeing you do it. Thanks for the pointers I'll let you know how it goes.
Appreciated your time a effort in making this video......Cheers
after watching this I'm happy I had the mechanic do the job.
Dont forget the lifting eye at the rear of the engine ,,right side .There is an o ring seal inside the bracket hiolding the lifting eye and the hose for heater box. . .If the o ring leaks then coolant will drop from the rear of the engine on to bell housing ,,then on to the floor .Grand job RIFFRAFFJAZZ love these videos
Thanks for taking the time to record your work.
I'm in the middle of replacing the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses and tensioner. It's my backup car (1988 300sel w126) so I'm taking my time. I'm still trying to remove the fan clutch. I need help LOL
your right. 75 percent of the time it wasnt done right so its got to be done over again. this water pump job is a real pain. most pro mechanics dont even want to do this job
man I encourage that .I am just like you. I cut my own hair I fixed my own cars. I run my car off 100% vegetable oil. I cook my own meals anything to save an extra buck..... I think I'll save a lot of money. we must consider ourselves intelligent enough to understand mechanics. I own an 87 300D turbo diesel and I own a 92 2.5 turbo diesel. the 92 seems to be overheating so I figure thermostat or water pump. ...
Good job! I still have not built up the courage and also have not found the time to replace mine but I know after replacing it I will bond that much more with my W124
This video is a lifesaver!!!
I will be doing that job soon. Good job mate
Thank you very much. It's really help me😊
Thank you for your video. Now I know what to do in mercedes.
thanks for the tips great help
ill give a million dollars for the couple acrylic. stunning mate. just stunning
Hi, Corey
It is actually an oil painting of me and my wife. I'd gladly take your million.
Cheers, Paul
Also, if you have a leaky top timing cover, with everything removed, good time to replace that as well if you got a nasty oil leak there (typical).
Sometimes its just easier to disconnect everything and get it out the way so you got plenty of room double check everything when putting back and you will be fine i got a waterpump from euro car parts about 87 pound good luck
Even tho I have Mercedes’s ALLDATA, I’m not looking forward to doing this job tomorrow 😂
Hi Riffraffjazz, Well I got the pump off, 4 hours, I did things slightly differently to you, as to be expected, surprising how many things I unbolted just to get at those 3 bolts, The dip stick I simply pulled out of the sump and the bracket nearest to the bottom bracket that secures the air con pipe I removed, how much easier that made. So now I have to wait for the new pump to arrive and hopefully I wont have forgotten the order in which to refit.
thanks alot for the tutorial video :)
FYI, on my M104.980 (1990 300CE), I had to remove the four bolts holding the AC Compressor, and the two allen bolts holding the another bracket, in order to drop it enough for that AC hose to get out of the way. Then, you can get to that top right bolt, but BARELY! You can sort of peek at the head of the bolt from the front. You'll need a 13mm, plus a swivel or u-joint and an extension. You may have to grind down the 13mm socket some (shave it so it's thinner) in order to get enough meat on the bolt head. Luckily, my bolt wasn't on there very tight as I couldn't get the socket fully on the bolt head (was so afraid of rounding the head bolt!).
Good luck! Some said you have to remove the plenum. I absolutely did not want to do that.
Thank you for sharing. I have the same pump issue on my 1989 300E. I will look for a mechanic that can do this at a a decent price
The viscous fan Allen key can seize up be careful mate as i just did my 280 SL convertible R129 quite involved job just take your time
Had my buddy Tyler help me with a 93 300e 2.8 and we didn't have to remove the radiator or Ac Still a pain in the ass though
lol....this guy is great...lol... a lot of you have come under the impression that I like working on cars well I don't...lol.... BLOODY SREWS
Hi, Joe
It’s good to see somebody likes my dry sense of humour. All you need to fix a car is the ability to
be able to read a book and drive a 3’ inch nail into a piece of 3’x 2’ timber. The
reason I fix my own cars is that mechanics charge like wounded bulls and 9 out
of 10 repair jobs I have had them do, the car comes back worse that I gave it
to them. I have work to do on our cars
and am just waiting to get some money to buy the parts, so more to come.
Rif i am doing this job again after 4 years pump failed again .My question is did you fir a used pump in your video or did you fit mew seals in the old one ? pump looks old
Hi, Trevor, I fitted a new pump, it was not expensive at the time. Cheers, Paul.
Thanks for the effort...I "like" the German engineering as I need to go through the whole process for just changing the short piece of hose between a water pump and engine body. I don't see any other way to swap the hose as there is only few millimeters room between and cannot push the hose through it...any ideas? Thanks!
Remove the head, it’s less work
Sir do you think its possible to do the job without removing the radiator (ie simply removing just the shroud)? Surprisingly the MB service manual just mentions the removal of only the shroud.
Hi, David, Unfortunately you have to remove the radiator to remove the shroud, it fits around the engine cooling fan, you would also not have enough room to get at the water pump. Regards, Paul.
Thank you Paul! Apparently MB made a split-shroud version that it appears neither of us have. With the split shroud, no need to take off. Thanks again!
Nice work man! I have a problem with my engine m103. My car starts to overheat only at low speed and when it is at idling speed. There are no leakages. What can it be?? Thank you!
Hi, check your thermostat first, good luck, Paul.
Thanks for your reply Paul! I checked thermostat and its ok, my mechanics says that maybe the fan clutch is bad, But I dont believe him. What test can I make to the fan clutch? Thanks in advance!
Hi, again
Check the fan if it spins freely, it should have resistance in it and not freewheel, Check it when the engine is warmed up and see if its grabbing, if it is just loping and spins freely the clutch is worn out. Cheers,
I dont think its the water pump. If the pump is bad it will overheat also at high speed. I ordered the clutch fan because it doesnt work!
maybe you have to try with the thermostat first. But 100 degrees its fine, more is not allowed. Its overheating when you drive at high speed?
Thanks for the video. For all of the tool nuts in this world - Snap-On use to make a special extension with 13mm socket to get to the hard-to-reach WP bolts. The tool was FLXM13. It has been replaced by PFLXM13B.
store.snapon.com/Extension-Sockets-Swivel-Ball-mm-industrial-Socket-Metric-Power-Swivel-Ball-Extension-13-mm-12-Point-P813520.aspx
Some pro mechanics and diyers claim this cuts removal/install time down significantly.
And last but not least - here is the official Mercedes doc for water pump replacement:
www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Engine/103/20-210.pdf
Change watter pompe now problèmes this simple
is it the same for the 2.6 6cyl?
The M103 2.6L and the M103 3.0L are virtually identical, if I'm not mistaken, it's just a matter of difference in bore. But as far as the external working components and accessories, they're the same engine.
You are correct
Ok😊
I want to buy that painting my friend
The ones in the garage are not very good, that's why they are there.
Paul.
i think ill have a smoke break too.... Lord God all this shit for the w/p lol
Mercedes charge around 6 hundred pound
WOW!! What a pain in the ass...
I did it with Avasva plans.